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Questa ricerca indaga gli aspetti culturali e materiali della storia della costruzione di uno spencer Liberty, che viene qui esaminato come documento storico. Questo capo faceva parte di un vestito da sposa e fu indossato il 12 ottobre 1912, giorno delle nozze, da una quindicenne a Villa Platina, entro i confini di Minas Gerais, regione del sud est del Brasile. La ricerca prende le mosse dalla cultura materiale per svilupparsi poi nel campo della storia, considerando aspetti economici, culturali e politici, della società platinense: una società rurale e tradizionale che si trovava agli albori del sistema repubblicano (periodo denominato di Republica Velha) e coincidente con il movimento artistico dell’Art Nouveau, in Italia denominato Liberty. La tesi indaga dunque le relazioni tra la società, il suo sistema di vestiario e il suo collegamento con la moda occidentale, tenendo sempre presente la storia dell’oggetto. La tesi si struttura su cinque assi: ¬la persona che ha posseduto l’oggetto stesso, l’ambiente produttivo, l’ambiente formativo dei sarti, la stampa e le comunicazioni e, infine l’oggetto. La ricerca si basa su diverse fonti: iconografiche, censimenti, libri contabili, periodici e riviste di moda, manuali tecnici della manifattura degli abiti (modellistica, taglio e cucito), periodici politici ed economici, archivi, testimonianze orali, oggetti manufatti del periodo, materie prime, la ricostruzione filologica dell’oggetto, ecc. L’obiettivo principale di tale indagine è comprendere processi e problematiche proprie delle materie prime, della commercializzazione, dei procedimenti di lavorazione, dei costi, delle mode e delle gerarchie sociali che questo manufatto presenta nelle varie fasi di lavorazione, di taglio ed assemblaggio., This research questions the material and cultural aspects of a Liberty Spencer construction, which is examined here as a historical document. This clothing was part of a wedding dress and was used about 12 October 1912, the wedding day, by a 15 years old girl. The weeding took place on the border of Minas Gerais, southeast region of Brazil. This research starts from material culture perspective to develop into the fields of history, considering economic, political and cultural aspects of the platinense society. That was a rural and traditional society on the beginning of republican system (so called Republica Velha), the same period of the Art Nouveau artistic movement, named Liberty movement in Italy. Thus, the thesis questions the relationship between society, its vesture system and its link with occidental fashion, considering the object history. This thesis is structured on five axes: the person who owned the object; the productive environment; the dressmakers professional qualification environment; the press; and finally, the object. This research is based on several sources: iconographic, census, accounting books, fashion newspapers and magazines, technical manuals of clothes manufacturing (modeling, cutting and sewing), political and economic periodicals, archives, oral testimonies, artifacts of the period, raw materials, the philological reconstruction of the object, etc. The main object is to understand the process and the raw materials, commercialization, manufacturing, cost, fashion and social hierarchy problematics that this artifact represents in the various manufacturing stages, of cutting and assembly.

This article analyzes the presence of garment workers (spinners, weavers, seamstresses, tailors, etc.) in the municipality of Villa Platina. It has the 1904 county census as the primary source of investigation. This village is located in the Triângulo Mineiro region, former "Hinterland of rotten flour", Minas Gerais. The objective is to understand the cultural context of this village and the relationship of this society with the clothing production and commerce. Therefore, we investigate the origins, the level of literacy, kinship relations and the residential sites of professionals, as well as their relation with learning and the pursuit of this profession. In this society it was already visible the presence of immigrants introducing new sewing techniques, one of the factors that contributed to the redefinition of the tradition of local clothing manufacturing. The research begins with a description of the census and relates it with other sources, with a dialectic perspective, to better situate historically the village and the clothing professional’s activities.

Villa Platina was named from 1901 to 1915. Before 1915 it was named Arraial de São José do Tijuco, and after 1915 it became a city with the name of Ituiutaba. The period in which it was denominated Villa Platina maches with the period in which the arts and fashion was called Belle Époque. The aim of this article is to analyse the beginning of the urbanization process of Ituiutaba and its relation with this fashion created in great European centers. The research is based on theoretical methodological assumptions established by Fernand Baudel, in which the socio-political and economic context for the study of fashion is considered. The research is based on official documents of the municipal and state public administration, on newspapers, on fashion magazines and on bibliographical research.