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Copyright of Cuadernos del Centro de Estudios de Diseño y Comunicación is the property of Cuadernos del Centro de Estudios de Diseno y Comunicacion and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

The fast fashion linear business model and its widespread consumption practices have instigated numerous environmental consequences, prompting extensive research into sustainable consumer behavior. This article conducts a thorough and quantitative analysis of the contemporary research landscape of the fashion industry and its ecological impact. Spanning from 2012 to 2023, our review explores 119 articles sourced from journals at the intersection of clean production and the fashion industry. The analysis reveals two central research focal points and identifies 77 keywords embedded in the knowledge base. Three overarching knowledge domains emerge from this exploration. We construct a cohesive narrative by synthesizing critical knowledge junctures, the knowledge base, and identified domains, resulting in a knowledge structure comprising five key concepts. Moreover, keywords are thoughtfully organized under their respective knowledge domains. As a synthesis of these insights, this article presents a robust knowledge roadmap, serving as a compass for a nuanced understanding of the current state of sustainability within the dynamic realm of the fashion industry. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The world has been facing a growing crisis in textile waste due to global population growth and improved living conditions, combined with a decrease in the life cycles of textile products. Textile recycling is one of the key aspects for reducing the massive waste problem generated by the fashion and textile industries. Despite the need to develop textile waste recycling industries, acceptable practical interim measures still need to be taken. Textile waste can affect people's lives economically and environmentally. Producing apparel from natural or synthetic origin can produce pollutants and waste at each stage. In this review article, the effects of the fashion and textile industry have been studied from economic and environmental perspectives. The available technologies and methods for waste recovery and recycling at each stage have been studied, and the uses of products after recycling have been systematically investigated. Despite all the progress made in the waste recycling processes of the fashion industry, many deficiencies and challenges still need to be addressed. Among the most critical challenges are the large scale of industries, the problems of collecting and classifying waste materials, and the presence of contaminants including blends and chemicals. There is also need for more awareness among consumers about the importance of fiber-to-fiber recycling processes, because to date the progress in this field is out of proportion to its necessity. Overall, this article is a valuable resource for anyone interested in understanding the current state of recycling and recovery in the textiles, garment, and fashion industries. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study investigates the interplay between Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) engagement and pricing strategies in shaping consumer purchase intentions in the fast fashion industry. Using a scenario-based experimental design with 267 participants, this research explores how different levels of CSR and two distinct price points influence purchasing behavior. Additionally, the moderating effects of individual differences, such as consumer wealth, motivations for sustainable behavior, and income, are examined. The findings indicate that higher levels of CSR engagement significantly enhance purchase intentions, particularly when combined with higher price points, perhaps due to consumer perceptions of CSR programs associated with more expensive brands as more authentic. However, price remains a critical factor for lower-income consumers, revealing an "ethical consumption gap" where affordability outweighs ethical concerns. Extrinsic motivations, such as social pressure, strongly influence wealthier consumers' decisions, while intrinsic motivations show a more complex relationship with purchasing behavior. The findings provide practical insights for fast fashion brands, suggesting that aligning CSR with competitive pricing and authentic messaging is crucial for appealing to both price-sensitive and ethically conscious consumers. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The clothing industry has experienced global and sustained growth in the last decades due, among other factors, to the decentralisation of production in this sector and its consequent lowering of prices, but also to the effect of the unceasing demand that fashion generates. Simultaneously, the number of people employed in the textile sector has been growing in economically developing countries under precarious labour conditions. The objective of this study is to analyse the level of knowledge and awareness of the Spanish population about the working conditions in clothing manufacturing at production sites. To achieve this, we applied statistical analysis to data collected from a sample (n = 3000) of Spanish fashion consumers. The main results show a society with a high degree of concern for labour conditions in the textile sector, as well as for the environmental repercussions triggered by this type of production. Considering the differences based on socio-demographic variables, we find that women, older consumers, and respondents with higher education show a greater degree of concern about the working conditions in the clothing industry. Along the same lines, respondents who are ideologically left wing present a higher degree of concern than respondents from the extreme right. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The fashion and textile industry significantly contributes to environmental degradation through unsustainable manufacturing and waste disposal practices, particularly in South Africa's retail sector. This study examines the retail merchandise cycles of two prominent clothing retailers based in Cape Town, South Africa to identify stages that generate substantial fashion and textile waste and proposes a model to enhance sustainability within the industry. Adopting a qualitative, interpretive research paradigm, data were collected through purposive sampling and in-depth interviews with key personnel, primarily buyers, within the selected companies. The research involved mapping and analyzing each retail cycle phase to identify excessive waste generation points. The findings revealed that retailers produce considerable amounts of waste (pre- and post-consumer) due to fast fashion practices and insufficient recycling systems. While both companies acknowledged the importance of sustainability, there was a notable lack of concrete policies and limited visibility into supplier processes concerning environmental impact. The study identified specific departments and operations within the retail cycles responsible for significant waste production, highlighting the need for systemic changes. Based on these insights, an improved retail cycle model was developed emphasizing waste reduction through sustainable sourcing, enhanced recycling initiatives, and stricter supplier compliance measures. The proposed model aims to minimize environmental harm by integrating sustainability into all aspects of the retail process.

This contribution addresses the sustainable clothing buying behaviour of Generations X and Y. The aim of the paper is to analyse the main features of sustainable clothing buying behaviour within Generations X and Y and to suggest some marketing activities for fashion companies. The theoretical background contains information from professional literature, scientific journals indexed in WOS and Scopus, and websites regarding the main trends in CSR, sustainable development, and sustainable buying behaviour, with a focus on the fashion industry. The analysis comprises multiple stages: the creation of a questionnaire through Google Forms, the selection of respondents from generations X and Y in the territory of the Slovak Republic, the analysis of respondents' answers through descriptive statistics, and the evaluation of research hypotheses via inductive statistics. Among the general research methods, historical-logical methods, analysis, synthesis, and comparison were used, whereas specialised research methods included methods of descriptive statistics and methods of inductive statistics implemented in the SPSS program. The questionnaire consisted of 11 questions based on previous research on the study topics and was completed by 139 respondents. The identification questions sought information from the participants about their identification as Generation X or Y, their gender, and their income. The next step was a comparison of shopping places, types of clothing, buying factors, and frequency and awareness of sustainable trends. The last 3 questions were framed according to previous research and were evaluated via descriptive statistics methods as well as inductive statistics. Research hypotheses are focused on relationships between the use of sustainable trends and belonging to a specific generation, the degree of influence of sustainable trends on buying behaviour and belonging to a specific generation, and the degree of rationality when purchasing clothes and belonging to a specific generation. On the basis of these tests, only the second hypothesis (influence of sustainable trends) was further analysed. Research results indicate that fashion brands can utilise slow fashion for different types of marketing communication to effectively target Generations X and Y, with a particular focus on influencer marketing on social networks. The limitations include various definitions of generations (birth years), possible cognitive distortions and the subjective answers of respondents. The fashion industry is an essential component of the creative industry and creative economy. Research could be extended by comparing sustainable clothing buying behaviour between inhabitants from the region with the above-average value of the regional NUTS3 creative index (Bratislava region) and inhabitants from other NUTS3 regions. Research could also be extended by comparing the effects of irrationality on generations in the context of behavioural economics. The end of the contribution expresses the benefits of this research for economics, the environment, and society.

Abstract Since the late twentieth century, the global fashion industry has been increasingly embracing the business model known as fast fashion. Characterised by rapid production cycles, fleeting trends, low-cost garments and large-scale production, fast fashion seems to meet consumer demand for affordable and trendy clothing. However, its environmental impact as a major polluter poses significant challenges to sustainability and circularity initiatives. This article presents the results of a systematic literature review, exploring the unsustainable consequences of fast fashion, focusing on both demand and supply side, from a geographical perspective. Using a Global North–Global South framework, it explores differences in socio-economic structures, consumption and production patterns, access to resources and environmental impacts. The analysis suggests that a fair and equitable transition towards a sustainable and circular fashion industry will require the links between business, society and nature to be reconsidered, to avoid perpetuating the inequalities associated with the global linear capitalist economy. The findings highlight the importance of both markets and institutions in sustainable growth. In the Global North, the most frequently discussed topics relate to investment and research and development with respect to new technologies or system innovations often with the support of well-structured political guidance. Conversely, in the Global sustainable initiatives tend to be scattered, country-specific and intricately tied to particular socio-economic and cultural contexts.

This article proposes an analytical framework of spatial-digital fix to explain how emerging online platform retailers utilize digital technologies to fix their crises in backward and forward value chains—both digitally and spatially—and their subsequent positive and negative impacts on various actors in production and distribution networks. By applying the analytical framework on Shein (an emerging online fast fashion retailer originally based in China), we demonstrate how it utilizes spatial-digital infrastructures to fix various crises/shocks across the entire value chain, from the fashion design and procurement to supply chain management through its in-house algorithmic systems, fostering an ultra-fast rate of capital accumulation. Beyond the inherently crisis-prone nature and the corresponding dark sides highlighted in the literature, we focus on the dynamic processes of capital accumulation and the corresponding fixes that lead to darker (negative) and brighter (positive) sides in various actors, from the constant pressure on cost minimization to synergistic intersections between emerging digital fast fashion retailers, subcontractors, and suppliers in the production networks. Moreover, these spatial-digital fixes are temporary and give rise to new shocks due to their inherently crisis-prone nature, from intellectual property lawsuits to labor and environmental issues. This article complements the conventional case of a race to the bottom among subcontractors by highlighting a continuum between the brighter and darker sides of Shein's fixes and their disruptive effects on the power relationships and value distributions between incumbent fast fashion retailers, emerging online retailers, and other actors in apparel production networks. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In an attempt to solve the sustainability problem of textile waste occasioned by fast fashion was investigated. These textile wastes were envisioned as a medium to form "orifabric", which was arranged artistically to depict a visual artwork (cityscape). Visual artworks are rendered through painting, drawing, printing, and photography for numerous purposes. However, in this study, "orifabric" was used as a technique for visual artwork creation. The study used a practice-led research approach. Textile wastes collected from garment manufacturers and female consumers were processed. Thereafter, orifabric technique was used to form the sonobe cubes (SCs) for visual artwork production. These SCs were divided into four different categories and artistically arranged on six panels that made the cityscape. The findings revealed that a total of 109.54 yards of textile waste were used to create an artwork (cityscape) for indoor and outdoor decorations. This revealed that nonconventional techniques of visual artwork creation do not only create appealing artwork but also consume a huge amount of textile waste for artwork production. The outcome did not only simulate the ambience of the indoor and outdoor spaces, but also helped to address the sustainability challenges posed by fast fashion. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

TikTok, with its visual content and setup, has emerged as a powerful platform for fast fashion. This study examines how Zara uses TikTok to communicate with consumers, promote products and strengthen its brand. Content strategies, interaction with users and the impact on brand perception were analysed. Collaborations with content creators and special launches were found to broaden the audience and generate greater engagement. Video length also influences success, with an inverse correlation between length and likes. This analysis provides insights to understand and optimize brands' presence on TikTok. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The negative consequences of fast fashion have heightened concerns about the fashion industry's sustainability. Bacterial Cellulose (BC) has emerged as a promising biomaterial for sustainable applications in textiles and leather. However, dehydrated BC's low thickness and high stiffness pose limitations, reducing its appeal in diverse fields, including fashion, healthcare, etc. To address this challenge, a Plasticized BC-based interpenetrating polymer network (IPN) leatherette is investigated using an innovative 2-in-1 thickening process and a following softening step using Glycerol. The thickening process involves a novel "self-thickening" technique based on cellulosic mercerization and a formation of interpenetrating polymer network structure using BC and Silica skeleton. The fabricated BC-based material exhibits unique IPN structure and significant increase in BC thickness to 1.83±0.10 mm (≈ 16.64 times thicker), areal density to 2034.46±37.58 g/m 2 (≈ 16.33 times denser), moisture content of 31.09±0.48%, moisture regain of 45.12±1.01%, flexural rigidity of 3291.29±100.88 μ Nm, and improved bending modulus of 6.48±0.20 MPa (≈ 1035.27 times lower) compared to those of untreated BC. Furthermore, the durability of the Plasticized BC-based IPN leatherette is evaluated through five washing cycles, with the material retaining approximately 75.96%, 66.61%, 82.98%, and 77.39% of its unwashed thickness, areal density, moisture content, and regain, respectively. This study contributes to the value of BC-based materials in the textile and leather industries, offering a sustainable alternative to existing materials and production processes. Moreover, developing this novel 2-in-1 thickening process establishes a foundation for future research on BC functionalization in various applications, thereby contributing to sustainable development. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The rise of "fast fashion" has driven up the production of low-cost, short-lived clothing, significantly increasing global textile fiber production and, consequently, exacerbating environmental pollution. This study investigated the ecotoxicological effects of different types of anthropogenic microfibers—cotton, polyester, and mixed fibers (50% cotton: 50% polyester)—on marine organisms, specifically sea urchin embryos. All tested fibers exhibited toxicity, with cotton fibers causing notable effects on embryonic development even at environmentally relevant concentrations. The research also simulated a scenario where microfibers were immersed in seawater for 30 days to assess changes in toxicity over time. The results showed that the toxicity of microfibers increased with both concentration and exposure duration, with polyester being the most toxic among the fibers tested. Although synthetic fibers have been the primary focus of previous research, this study highlights that natural fibers like cotton, which are often overlooked, can also be toxic due to the presence of harmful additives. These natural fibers, despite decomposing faster than synthetic ones, can persist in aquatic environments for extended periods. The findings underline the critical need for further research on both natural and synthetic microfibers to understand their environmental impact and potential threats to marine ecosystems and sea urchin populations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The textile industry, fueled by the "fast fashion" phenomenon, contributes significantly to environmental, social, and economic degradation through the rapid turnover of styles, leading to substantial waste as consumers frequently discard garments. This cycle of consumption and production is linked to the social demand added to purchase income, demonstrating the urgent need for sustainable interventions. The main objective of this study is to carry out a systematic review of the literature to identify and critically evaluate circular economy strategies implemented in the textile industry. This study conducted a systematic review of circular economy strategies in the textile industry using the PRISMA methodology. Our search spanned a ten-year period, examining 88 articles, from which 55 were selected as pertinent. The primary strategies identified include reuse, recycling, repair, and reduction, each of which is assessed through environmental, social, and economic lenses. Reuse is crucial for reducing impacts and waste, yet it is hampered by insufficient consumer incentives. Recycling shows promise but is hindered by technological and awareness barriers. Repair contributes to extending the lifespan of garments, thereby reducing the need for new production, although it encounters challenges in terms of service accessibility and consumer knowledge. The reduction involves the search for better and more sustainable materials, with the main barrier being the fast fashion. The findings suggest that reuse is not only economically viable but also capable of lessening social inequality. Recycling, however, necessitates substantial investments and the development of supportive policies. Repair, on the other hand, significantly lessens the environmental impact and can spur new economic opportunities and employment. Despite these hurdles, these strategies present viable pathways toward a more sustainable textile industry. However, achieving this requires a paradigm shift in both consumer behavior and corporate practices to embrace and optimize circular economy practices within the sector. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose: Fast fashion brands in Asia are increasingly incorporating corporate social responsibility (CSR) into their business strategies in response to the mounting environmental and social concerns. The study aims to provide insights into the current landscape of CSR practices and communication within the Asian context through focusing on two prominent Asian brands to understand how these fashion brands articulate and convey their CSR activities on their respective websites. Design/methodology/approach: This study used a qualitative content analysis to critically evaluate the CSR communication used by Uniqlo and Shein, with the incorporation of signalling theory as a theoretical framework to discuss the observed elements on their websites. Findings: The results indicate that the two Asian fast fashion brands actively engage in CSR's environmental and social dimensions. Notably, the social dimension is more prominently expressed on both brands' websites than on other dimensions. Through a nuanced interplay of colour, imagery and keywords, these Asian fast fashion brands strategically signify their commitment to environmental stewardship and stakeholder well-being. Originality/value: This study fills a gap in the literature by examining CSR programs on Asian-owned fast fashion brands' websites through the application of signalling theory. The research contributes to the theoretical foundation of CSR communication outcome research, offering actionable insights for marketers entering the Asian fashion market to enhance brand reputation and legitimacy. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study explores the factors influencing sustainable fashion behavior among Indonesian Gen Z, focusing on the roles of environmental knowledge (EK), environmental attitude (EA), and slow fashion behavior (SFB). The rapid expansion of fast fashion has created significant environmental and social challenges, such as increased waste and unsustainable production. Understanding the drivers behind sustainable fashion behavior is critical to promoting eco-friendly consumption patterns in younger generations. This research employs a mixed-method approach, integrating quantitative data and qualitative insights from focus group discussions (FGDs), to provide a comprehensive view of how environmental knowledge and attitudes shape sustainable fashion behavior. It is one of the first studies to apply the Knowledge-Attitude-Behavior (K-A-B) Model in the context of sustainable fashion in Indonesia. The quantitative results show that environmental knowledge and attitude jointly influence sustainable fashion purchase intention (R² = 0.514), which in turn impacts sustainable fashion behavior (R² = 0.501). Qualitative findings from FGDs highlight a preference for sustainable fashion due to its durability and environmental benefits. The study emphasizes the importance of enhancing environmental education and promoting sustainable fashion practices to encourage responsible consumption. These findings offer valuable insights for policymakers, educators, and the fashion industry in fostering sustainable consumption patterns. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The purpose of this study is to bridge the gap between sustainable fashion and customer purchase intentions by analysing the current trends and offering techniques to increase sustainable fashion awareness and overcome price consumption issues among Generation Z (Gen Z) consumers. A mixed methods approach was employed in this study consisting of online surveys and focus groups surrounding the topic of sustainable apparel consumption among the Gen Z age group. Focus groups served to lead to an online survey of questions to help better understand the phenomena on an exploratory scale. Three focus groups of eight to ten volunteers each aged 18–25 from a large Midwestern university took part in 60-minute discussions regarding their understanding of fast fashion and their purchase intentions/awareness of ethical issues within the apparel industry. Online surveys were conducted through the online platform Qualtrics consisting of 29 questions with a total of 445 participants ranging from 18 to 23 years old taking part in the online survey. Main themes found in the focus groups are the idea of shopping second hand, laziness among consumers and the quality of garments. Surveys found that this age group was willing to pay up to 25 per cent more for a sustainable apparel item and that uniqueness of the item was of utmost importance. Implications for brands and retailers as well as academics are presented. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The fast fashion industry, characterized by its reliance on rapid consumption cycles, and short-lived garment use, has raised major environmental concerns. This industry generates over 92 million tons of waste and consumes 79 trillion liters of water annually, driven by rising consumer demand for fast fashion. As such, there is a pressing need to transition from the current wasteful fast fashion purchasing behavior to more sustainable behavior. Despite extensive research on sustainable purchasing behavior, there is still a gap in our understanding of the predictors of consumers' sustainable fast fashion purchasing behavior. To address this gap, our study utilized a survey questionnaire to collect data from a convenience sample of 123 South African consumers. We expanded the theory of planned behavior (TPB) by incorporating sustainability awareness as a background factor in the hypothesized theoretical model. We also investigated the relationships among the TPB constructs (attitude, subjective norm, and perceived behavioral control), sustainability awareness, and sustainable fast fashion purchasing behavior. By employing hierarchical regression within the extended TPB framework, we found that perceived behavioral control mediated the relationship between sustainability awareness and sustainable fast fashion purchasing behavior. Further, perceived behavioral control and its interaction with attitude significantly predicted sustainable fast fashion purchasing behavior, while sustainability awareness significantly predicted perceived behavioral control. Notably, our findings reveal that lower perceived behavioral control is associated with a stronger positive relationship between attitude and sustainable fast fashion purchasing behavior. These findings have important implications for theory and practice, and provide suggestions for future research directions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The fast fashion industry significantly impedes sustainability by its rapid production cycles, low-cost products, and heavy carbon footprint. Nowadays, circular economy (CE) has become an interesting concept, which follows the "take-make-dispose" model and allows products, materials, and resources to be in use as long as possible. There is a paucity of research in the identification of circular economy strategies (CES) and mapping them based on their interrelationships, which is very important from a managerial perspective. In this vein, this study identifies nine CES and analyzes their causal relationships using the Fuzzy Decision-Making Trial and Evaluation Laboratory method in the context of fast fashion footwear manufacture. The key contributions include providing actionable insights for implementing CE practices, enhancing the sustainability of the footwear industry, and offering a strategic roadmap for industry stakeholders. The results and implications of this study will guide footwear industry decision-makers in making a strategic map considering the cause-and-effect interrelationships among the CES for implementing CE business practices in the footwear industry. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study deconstructs the representations of fast fashion-triggered environmental injustice in three widely viewed eco-documentaries produced by public service media in regard to causal responsibility and treatment responsibility attributions from a multimodal critical discourse analytical perspective. Discursive practices associated with causal responsibility attributions include reinforcing the racialized perpetrator-victim dichotomy between the North and the South, redirecting blame to the generic consumers, and paradoxically justifying the problematized status quo. Discursive practices associated with treatment responsibility ascriptions include portraying individual actions as the solution, presupposing technology as the solution, picturing the Northern actors as the problem-solvers, and legitimizing business-as-usual approaches as the best compromise. These findings suggest that the three eco-documentaries reflect and perpetuate the wider discourse of neoliberal and neocolonial environmentalism, arguably rendering the meaning-making of environmental justice shallow and undermining possibilities of empowerment and radical change. Suggestions for media practitioners and environmental communicators informed by the analysis are offered. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Drawing upon Wolfgang Klein's concerns from 1989 about the overwhelming pace of academic publications and its shrinking readership, this commentary proposes strengthening local academic publishers to mitigate the impact of "academic fast fashion" – an ensuing phenomenon within the market-oriented academic landscape characterized by the rapid production, consumption, and disposal of scientific knowledge. By reflecting on our experience of establishing and maintaining local academic journals in Southern Luzon, Philippines, I illustrate the challenges that can be faced in this endeavor. I argue that if given proper support by appropriate academic infrastructures, local academic publishing can tap into a diverse audience to distill competition in readership apparent in today's globally-oriented academic landscape while simultaneously cultivating local knowledge economies. Opening academic discourse to unconventional readers through local academic publications can thus fulfill Klein's vision for a more inclusive advancement of knowledge. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Live streaming is a feature where sellers promote shops and products directly to buyers which can influence consumer's materialistic nature and hedonic motivation and might impact on purchasing decisions. Purpose: The objectives of this research include identifying segments of Shopee live streaming users, analyzing the influence of live streaming and materialism on hedonic motivation variables and purchasing decisions for fast fashion products, and finding out how to manage live streaming to increase purchasing decisions for fast fashion products. Design/methodology/approach: The analytical method used was SEM-PLS and the data obtained was 213 samples by quantitative descriptive methods. Findings/Result: The research results show that the live streaming and materialism variables have a significant positive influence on the hedonic motivation variable and purchasing decisions for fast fashion products. This is because the materialism indicator is closely related to the hedonic motivation indicator, so it supports consumers in making purchasing decisions on live streaming platforms. The live streaming variable has a direct influence on the purchasing decision variable. Conclusion: The recommendation for MSMEs in the fashion sector, it is hoped that they can take advantage of the features available on Shopee in implementing product marketing through e-commerce. Originality/value (State of the art): This is the first time someone has used the SEMPLS method to describe the relationship between factors and analyze factors on purchasing decisions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose: This study aims to investigate the ecological awareness of Chinese consumers towards fast fashion and examine the effect of social sustainability claims on green brand image and purchase intentions in China, considering China's unique environmental policy landscape and its significant role in the global fast fashion industry. The study explores the role of altruistic values in promoting sustainability within the well-known fast fashion brand "H" and how they shape brand image, consumer satisfaction and brand equity. Design/methodology/approach: The study collected data from 257 Chinese participants and used a serial mediation model through the PROCESS macro in SPSS to analyse the correlation between green brand image, created through sustainability claims and consumer purchase intentions. The model also assessed the intermediary effects of brand image, satisfaction and equity. Findings: The findings of the research indicate a direct and positive relationship between green brand image and consumer purchase intentions, emphasising the need for clothing and textile industry marketers to strategically promote altruistic values in their sustainability efforts and highlighting the importance of ecological awareness in shaping consumer behaviour in the Chinese context. This approach enhances green satisfaction and green brand equity and ultimately leads to higher green purchase intentions. Originality/value: This study provides significant insights into the effectiveness of incorporating social sustainability claims in advertising to improve a brand's green image and influence consumer behaviour. It emphasises the importance of altruistic values in sustainability strategies, offering valuable guidelines for marketers in enhancing green satisfaction and brand equity, thereby boosting consumer purchase intentions in the context of green branding and sustainability advertising. Focussing specifically on the Chinese market, this research sheds light on the impact of ecological awareness among Chinese consumers within the fast-fashion industry. Given China's substantial role in shaping global fast-fashion production and its evolving environmental policies, this focus adds significant depth to our understanding of sustainability claims' influence within this crucial consumer base. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of O Social em Questão is the property of Faculdades Catolicas - Pontificia Universidade Catolica do Rio de Janeiro and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Fast fashion, a prominent sector in global business, has come under scrutiny for its substantial clothing production and the resulting social and environmental impacts. A social and sustainable orientation in fast fashion is gaining traction with increased consumer awareness, prompting a shift in manufacturing practices. This paper, using a combination of qualitative (content analysis) and quantitative (survey) approaches, focuses on Zara and applies Stakeholder theory to confirm the positive impact of adopting social and sustainable initiatives on clients' purchase intentions. Our findings also underscore the significance of keeping stakeholders informed about the sustainable and corporate social responsibility initiatives undertaken by a brand. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The impact of technological innovation on employment has been a subject of extensive study, particularly regarding job polarization, where routine, medium-skilled jobs are more likely to be automated compared to high-skilled and manual jobs. However, medium-skilled jobs requiring face-to-face interaction, such as those in the retail sector, are less susceptible to automation. This article examines how technological innovation is transforming the roles of frontline service workers in the retail sector, focusing on sales assistants in the fast fashion industry in Milan. Retail is not a leading industry in technological innovation, making it a suitable example for studying gradual changes in job roles due to technology. The research investigates how the integration of online sales and digital tools has impacted the work organization and job quality of sales assistants. Despite the rise in online sales, brick-and-mortar stores have not been entirely replaced, but the nature of in-store work has become more complex. Drawing on three strands of literature--technology's impact on employment, digitalization and algorithmic management, and job quality--the study uses interviews with workers, managers, and trade unionists and maps recent changes that occurred in fast fashion stores. Findings reveal that technological innovation in retail has made sales assistants' jobs more demanding but has not necessarily improved job quality or wages, highlighting a need for better training and economic recognition to support these workers through the ongoing transformations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Fashion, which has always played an important role in the economy and culture of many countries, is a sector with a high environmental impact, responsible for significant water consumption and the production of a large amount of waste. In particular, fast fashion, a business model based on offering consumers new, cheap and trendy products, seems to be one of the main drivers of the constant quest for innovation in fashion products, with a consequent increase in the environmental and social impacts of this policy. Among the companies in the sector, the SHEIN platform, founded in China in 2008 under the name Zzko, has become a real competitor to global industry giants such as Inditex and H&M, leading to a business model that can be defined as ultra-fast fashion. The article presents the results of a qualitative research project aimed at understanding the consumption model, purchasing motivations and possible concerns about sustainability of young female Italian consumers who use the platform. To this end, 30 semi-structured interviews were conducted with a sample of university students, who are SHEIN customers, to identify their main purchasing motivations, their consumption habits, and the importance they attribute to sustainability issues. The results show that the main drivers for the platform success are the low price of the clothes and the wide variety of styles available. Students also proved to be quite sensitive to the issue of the company's unsustainable production practices, although this awareness does not automatically translate into a decision to stop buying the brand's products. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The clothing industry is a hotbed for exploitative working conditions and environmental damage, of which affluent global North countries remain a substantial driver. The circular economy is a potential solution to these issues, but its social implications remain unclear. Using the UK as a case study, this article analyses the global social impacts of a transition to circular clothing economies in the global North, finding these to be (almost) entirely dependent upon the intentions and design of the associated policies and governance, as well as broader socio-economic changes. Some aspects of a transition will be unambiguously good for some people; others will only be beneficial with careful governance. Moreover, entrenched global economic inequalities leave trade-offs borne largely by the global South, highlighting the need for circular economy research—its drive for localization notwithstanding—to look globally to consider how a fair transition can be achieved. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Since the late twentieth century, the global fashion industry has been increasingly embracing the business model known as fast fashion. Characterised by rapid production cycles, fleeting trends, low-cost garments and large-scale production, fast fashion seems to meet consumer demand for affordable and trendy clothing. However, its environmental impact as a major polluter poses significant challenges to sustainability and circularity initiatives. This article presents the results of a systematic literature review, exploring the unsustainable consequences of fast fashion, focusing on both demand and supply side, from a geographical perspective. Using a Global North–Global South framework, it explores differences in socio-economic structures, consumption and production patterns, access to resources and environmental impacts. The analysis suggests that a fair and equitable transition towards a sustainable and circular fashion industry will require the links between business, society and nature to be reconsidered, to avoid perpetuating the inequalities associated with the global linear capitalist economy. The findings highlight the importance of both markets and institutions in sustainable growth. In the Global North, the most frequently discussed topics relate to investment and research and development with respect to new technologies or system innovations often with the support of well-structured political guidance. Conversely, in the Global sustainable initiatives tend to be scattered, country-specific and intricately tied to particular socio-economic and cultural contexts. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this article, we examine how fast fashion companies attempt to build legitimacy for their actions through social media marketing communications. The data are sourced from Lindex's and H&M's Instagram posts to explore how sustainability claims are related to the discursive legitimation strategies of authorization, rationalization, moral evaluation, and mythopoesis. In our critical discourse analysis, we show how visual and verbal components participate in the construction of these discursive legitimation strategies. Our findings allow us to advance discussions of fast fashion as a market institution by critically addressing the role of fast fashion companies and the ways in which they aim to legitimize this unsustainable business model by harnessing sustainability claims. By analyzing visual and verbal components as a part of the discursive construction of legitimacy, our research adds empirical detail to conceptualizations of the mediating role of social media in perpetuating the harmful practices of the fashion industry. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Slow fashion has emerged as a response to the environmental and ethical problems of fast fashion. Despite this trend, actual purchase behavior appears to lag behind. By employing the environmental sustainability consciousness framework and the knowledge‐attitude‐behavior model, this study specifically explores the impact of environmental sustainability consciousness, including knowingness and attitude, on Generation Z and Millennial's slow fashion practices. A total of 1966 responses were analyzed using the partial least square structural equation modeling. The measurement scales were validated through confirmatory factor analysis. The hypothesized relationships were confirmed. The study sheds light on the critical link between environmental consciousness and sustainable consumption practices in fashion, which is of paramount importance given the growing environmental and ethical concerns associated with fast fashion. Furthermore, the current study aims to bridge the gap between knowing/attitude and actual purchase behavior in the context of the emerging slow fashion trend. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Artykuł podejmuje kwestie zagadnienie rozumienia i postrzegania mody w kategoriach dizajnu. Aby wskazać celowość takiego kierunku badań, autor analizuje dwie wystawy poświęcone modzie. Pierwszą z nich jest Items: Is Fashion Modern? przygotowana przez nowojorskie Museum of Modern Art (MoMA), drugą zaś Fast Fashion: Dark Side of Fashion zorganizowana przez Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe w Hamburgu. Z analizy wynika, że mówienie o modzie nie przez sztukę i jej język, ale przez kategorie dizajnu pozwala zobaczyć ją pełniej, ująć więcej problemów. By jednak zmiana w tym kierunku mogła się dokonać, potrzebna jest weryfikacja tego, co rozumiemy przez słowo moda. Jedno z rozwiązań przynosi badaczka z Australii, Alice Payne. Zaproponowany przez nią podział ułatwiłby patrzenie na modę nie przez sztukę, a właśnie przez dizajn, wzbogaciłby język, jakim o modzie się z reguły mówi, i w konsekwencji jej społeczne postrzeganie. Ostatecznie autor proponuje również, aby odpowiednio wzbogacić o perspektywę dizajnu także historię mody, by dyscyplina ta nabrała nowego znaczenia i tym samym wspomagała przemianę mody w przyszłości.

AbstractConsumer interactions on social media have been analysed in the literature as sources of information about their ability to generate engagement and knowledge about how to interact with brands. The present study contributes to this line of research, focusing on empirically determining those elements that affect the interaction between a fast fashion brand and its users, providing central elements of brand strategies on Instagram. This study examines the engagement generated by Primark posts on Instagram based on three coding categories that analyse the content of the message, the communication strategy and the formal and product category aspects present in the posts. This study therefore identifies the variables with the greatest potential to generate engagement with this brand’s posts on Instagram, which in turn predicts previous unexplored outcomes such as brand image and consumer loyalty. This study also provides valuable academic insights and guides fast fashion brands in their social media strategies.

The fast fashion linear business model and its widespread consumption practices have instigated numerous environmental consequences, prompting extensive research into sustainable consumer behavior. This article conducts a thorough and quantitative analysis of the contemporary research landscape of the fashion industry and its ecological impact. Spanning from 2012 to 2023, our review explores 119 articles sourced from journals at the intersection of clean production and the fashion industry. The analysis reveals two central research focal points and identifies 77 keywords embedded in the knowledge base. Three overarching knowledge domains emerge from this exploration. We construct a cohesive narrative by synthesizing critical knowledge junctures, the knowledge base, and identified domains, resulting in a knowledge structure comprising five key concepts. Moreover, keywords are thoughtfully organized under their respective knowledge domains. As a synthesis of these insights, this article presents a robust knowledge roadmap, serving as a compass for a nuanced understanding of the current state of sustainability within the dynamic realm of the fashion industry.

The worldwide fashion business is seeing swift expansion, but, the adoption of rapid fashion has detrimental effects on ecological sustainability. Sustainable halal fashion, which emphasises quality, sustainability, and ethical values, offers a solution to address this. This study looks at how sustainable halal fashion can strengthen the slow fashion trend and proposes strategic steps for its development. This research employs a qualitative approach to literature study, gathering information from books, articles, and mass media. The results show that sustainable halal fashion contributes to slow fashion and has potential to develop sustainably by increasing public understanding, developing local raw materials, increasing production efficiency, efficiently utilizing supplies and reducing wastage in the manufacturing process., building collaboration. The conclusion is that sustainable halal fashion provides an innovative solution to overcome the fashion industry's negative impact and strengthen the slow fashion trend.

The fast fashion trend is gaining popularity due to the presence of fashion influencers on social media despite its adverse impact on environmental sustainability. This research aims to explore the fashion influencers communication strategy, assess how fashion influencers endorsements contribute to the formation of consumptive culture, and investigate fashion influencers endorsement concepts that are more ethical. The qualitative research is used by employing the observations on six Indonesian fashion influencers Instagram accounts, and the interviews with three informants confirmed as being with three informants confirmed as affected by fashion influencers endorsement. The data were analysed using media content analysis and thematic analysis. The study concluded with three main findings. Firstly, fashion influencers employs persuasive and interactive communication strategies. Secondly, the formation of a consumptive culture results from the fashion expertise of influencers, which nurtures consumer satisfaction by promoting a consumptive lifestyle among consumers, even though they ultimately assess their consumption. Lastly, fashion influencers can be aligned to reconstruct more ethical endorsement by applying responsibility, sanctity, and sustainability principles. Tren fast fashion saat ini semakin populer karena kehadiran fashion influencer di media sosial meskipun memiki dampak buruk terhadap keberlanjutan lingkungan. Penelitian ini bertujuan untuk mengeksplorasi strategi komunikasi fashion influencer, menemukan pola konstruksi konten promosi fashion influencer terhadap budaya konsumtif, serta memberikan kerangka endorsement oleh fashion influencer yang lebih etis. Penelitian ini menggunakan pendekatan kualitatif dengan metode pengumpulan data berupa observasi terhadap enam orang fashion influencer Indonesia serta wawancara terhadap tiga orang yang terkonfirmasi telah terdampak oleh konten promosi fashion influencer. Data yang ada kemudian dianalisis menggunakan konten analisis media dan analisis tematik. Hasil penelitian menghasilkan tiga temuan utama. Pertama, strategi komunikasi fashion influencer yakni persuasif dan interaktif. Kedua, terbentuknya budaya konsumtif berawal dari keahlian fashion influencer yang kemudian menimbulkan kepuasan konsumen dengan mempromosikan gaya hidup konsumtif, meskipun pada akhirnya konsumen mengevaluasi pola konsumsinya. Terakhir, fashion influencer dapat diarahkan untuk merekonstruksi pendekatan endorsement-nya agar lebih etis, dengan menerapkan prinsip tanggung jawab, sakral, dan keberlanjutan.

This study tests a brand extension in fast fashion to explore the extension’s effect on the parent brand. It investigates whether extensions to varyingly distant product classes modify customers’ attitudes toward the parent brand. University students from the Technical University of Liberec, the Faculty of Economics (Czech Republic), aged 22-25 years, participated in an online survey for this study. The number of respondents was 310. The outcomes are relevant for this segment of customers. The model with classic brand extension factors (perceived fit (FIT), attitudes toward the brand extension (ATE), parent brand attitude change (PBCH)) was constructed. Factors of fashion leaders and emotional variables (e.g., trust and loyalty) were added to the model. The model was tested using structural equation modeling (SEM) in AMOS software and was statistically significant (Chi-squared value of 6.402, p = 0.171). A positive relationship was observed between FIT and ATE (β = 0.534, p-value = 0.000), the same as trust and ATE (β = 0.693, p-value = 0.000). Equally, ATE had a significant positive impact on PBCH (β = 0.722, p-value = 0.000) and trust and loyalty (β = 0.649, p-value = 0.000). Loyalty negatively affects ATE (β = -0.126, p-value = 0.010), indicating that these customers may have problems with brand extension, similar to a fashion leader (β = -0.126, p-value = 0.010). TRUST has a negative effect on the PBCH (β = -0.338, p-value = 0.000). Insights derived from this study hold substantial relevance for marketers in fast fashion aiming to prepare brand extensions effectively. AcknowledgmentThis work is supported by the Technical University of Liberec, Faculty of Economics – internal grant.