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Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2018. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 48 (2018): 435-453, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-17-0122.1., Observations of surface waves, currents, and turbulence at the Columbia River mouth are used to investigate the source and vertical structure of turbulence in the surface boundary layer. Turbulent velocity data collected on board freely drifting Surface Wave Instrument Float with Tracking (SWIFT) buoys are corrected for platform motions to estimate turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) and TKE dissipation rates. Both of these quantities are correlated with wave steepness, which has previously been shown to determine wave breaking within the same dataset. Estimates of the turbulent length scale increase linearly with distance from the free surface, and roughness lengths estimated from velocity statistics scale with significant wave height. The vertical decay of turbulence is consistent with a balance between vertical diffusion and dissipation. Below a critical depth, a power-law scaling commonly applied in the literature works well to fit the data. Above this depth, an exponential scaling fits the data well. These results, which are in a surface-following reference frame, are reconciled with results from the literature in a fixed reference frame. A mapping between free-surface and mean-surface reference coordinates suggests 30% of the TKE is dissipated above the mean sea surface., Funding for this project was provided by the Office of Naval Research as part of the RIVET-II DRI, and for the DARLA group.

Author Posting. © American Meteorological Society, 2017. This article is posted here by permission of American Meteorological Society for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Physical Oceanography 47 (2017): 85-100, doi:10.1175/JPO-D-15-0234.1., Observations and analyses of two tidally recurring, oblique, internal hydraulic jumps at a stratified estuary mouth (Columbia River, Oregon/Washington) are presented. These hydraulic features have not previously been studied due to the challenges of both horizontally resolving the sharp gradients and temporally resolving their evolution in numerical models and traditional observation platforms. The jumps, both of which recurred during ebb, formed adjacent to two engineered lateral channel constrictions and were identified in marine radar image time series. Jump occurrence was corroborated by (i) a collocated sharp gradient in the surface currents measured via airborne along-track interferometric synthetic aperture radar and (ii) the transition from supercritical to subcritical flow in the cross-jump direction via shipborne velocity and density measurements. Using a two-layer approximation, observed jump angles at both lateral constrictions are shown to lie within the theoretical bounds given by the critical internal long-wave (Froude) angle and the arrested maximum-amplitude internal bore angle, respectively. Also, intratidal and intertidal variability of the jump angles are shown to be consistent with that expected from the two-layer model, applied to varying stratification and current speed over a range of tidal and river discharge conditions. Intratidal variability of the upchannel jump angle is similar under all observed conditions, whereas the downchannel jump angle shows an additional association with stratification and ebb velocity during the low discharge periods. The observations additionally indicate that the upchannel jump achieves a stable position that is collocated with a similarly oblique bathymetric slope., We acknowledge the financial support of the Office of Naval Research under Awards N00014-10-1-0932 and N00014-13-1-0364., 2017-07-04

Our long-term goal is to use remote sensing observations to constrain a data assimilation model of wave and circulation dynamics in an area characterized by a river mouth or tidal inlet and surrounding beaches. As a result of this activity, we will improve environmental parameter estimation via remote sensing fusion, determine the success of using remote sensing data to drive DA models, and produce a dynamically consistent representation of the wave, circulation, and bathymetry fields in complex environments.

The objective of this project was to perform further analysis of data sets that had been collected over the past two decades. To this end the following data sets were further analyzed: the Airship data sets of 1993 and 1995, the SHOWEX data set of 1999, the NLIWI data set of 2005-2007, the Philippine data set of 2007, the Duck data set of 2008, and the Ship Guidance data set of 2008. Findings include, but are not limited to, the following: 1) VV backscatter agrees well with the multiscale composite surface model, 2) Breaking waves contribute more to HH than VV backscatter and can cause cross sections at HH to exceed those at VV in disagreement with composite surface theory, 3) Shadowing is not a factor in low-grazing-angle backscatter from the ocean, especially at VV polarization, and 4) Linear features in wavenumber-frequency spectra of ocean backscatter are primarily due to short gravity waves breaking at maxima of dominant-wave interference patterns., The original document contains color images.

Author Posting. © American Geophysical Union, 2005. This article is posted here by permission of American Geophysical Union for personal use, not for redistribution. The definitive version was published in Journal of Geophysical Research 110 (2005): C12024, doi:10.1029/2005JC003022., The relationship between microwave imaging radar measurements of fluid velocities in the surf zone and shoaling, breaking, and broken waves is studied with field observations. Normalized radar cross section (NRCS) and Doppler velocity are estimated from microwave measurements at near-grazing angles, and in situ fluid velocities are measured with acoustic Doppler velocimeters (ADVs). Joint histograms of radar cross section and Doppler velocity cluster into identifiable distributions. The NRCS values from pixels with large NRCS and high Doppler velocities (>2 m/s) decrease with decreasing bore height to the shoreline, similar to scattering from a cylinder with decreasing radius. The Doppler velocities associated with these regions in the histograms agree well with theoretical wave phase velocities. Radar and ADV measurements of fluid velocities between bore crests have similarly shaped energy density spectra for frequencies above about 0.1 Hz, but energy levels from the radar are an order of magnitude higher than those of the ADV data. Instantaneous interbore Doppler velocities are correlated with ADV measured fluid velocities but are offset by 0.8 m/s. This offset may be due to Bragg wave phase velocities, wind drift, range and azimuth sidelobes, the finite spatial resolution of the radar, and differences between mean flows measured at the surface with radar and flows measured below the surface with ADVs. Shoaling and breaking waves measured through radar grating lobes significantly affect both the Doppler velocities near the edges of the images and the scattering from the rear faces of waves, causing large Doppler velocities to be observed in these regions., This work was funded by the ONR Coastal Geosciences Program.