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Spor giysiler artık sadece aktif spor için değil, günlük yaşamda da tercih edilmektedir. Spor kıyafetler, esneklik özelliğinden dolayı daha çok örme kumaşlardan üretilmektedir. Örgü yapısına elastan ilave edilmesi ile yapıya fazladan esneklik kazandırılmakta ve böylece giysinin vücut hareketine daha iyi cevap vermesi sağlanmaktadır. Son yıllarda elastanlı örme kumaşların fiziksel ve konfor özellikleri hakkında pek çok çalışma yapılmasına rağmen, kumaşların kalıcı uzama ve konfor özelliklerinin birlikte incelendiği pek fazla çalışma yer almamaktadır. Bu çalışmada, elastanlı örme kumaşların kalıcı uzama ve konfor özelliklerinin incelenmesi amaçlanmıştır. Çift taraflı askı sıraları ile bağlantı yapılmış iki farklı interlok örgü yapısı seçilmiştir. Tekstüre polyester iplikle birlikte 22, 33, 44, 60, 78dtex olmak üzere 5 farklı numarada çıplak elastan iplik kullanılarak, elastan ipliğin kumaş özelliklerine etkisi incelenmiştir. Elastanlı iplik (gipe) kullanımının etkisini görebilmek için iki farklı numara gipe iplikle de kumaşlar üretilmiştir. Aynı ipliklerle aynı örgü yapılarında elastansız olarak örülenlerle birlikte toplam 19 kumaş numunesi üretilmiştir. Üretilen kumaşların sıklık, ağırlık, kalınlık, hava geçirgenliği, su buharı geçirgenliği, ısıl geçirgenlik, ani uzama ve kalıcı uzama , snagging, eğilme rijitliği ve yüzey pürüzlülük özellikleri gibi parametreleri test edilmiştir. Deneysel sonuçlar istatistiksel olarak değerlendirilmiştir. Elde edilen sonuçlara göre; elastan ipliğin numarası, örgünün yapısı, elastanın çıplak halde veya gipe halde kullanılması, elastanın örgü içerisinde besleme konumu parametrelerinin yukarıda bahsedilen kumaş özellikleri üzerinde önemli etkisi olmuştur Sportswear is now preferred not only for active sports but also in daily life. Sportswear is mostly produced from knitted fabrics due to its flexibility. By adding elastane to the knit structure, extra flexibility is added to the structure and thus the garment is provided to respond better to body movement. Although many studies have been conducted on the physical and comfort properties of elastane knitted fabrics in recent years, there are not many studies examining the permanent elongation and comfort properties of fabrics together. It is aimed to examine the permanent elongation and comfort properties of elastane knitted fabrics in this study. Two different interlock knit structures, which are connected with double-sided fang rows, are selected. The effect of elastane yarn on fabric properties was investigated by using 5 different numbers of bare elastane yarn as 22, 33, 44, 60, 78dtex together with textured polyester yarn. To see the effect of using core spun elastane yarn, fabrics were also produced with two different numbers of core-spun elastane yarn. A total of 19 fabric samples were produced, including those knitted with the same yarns in the same knitting structures, without elastane. The parameters such as density, weight, thickness, air permeability, water vapor permeability, thermal permeability, instant elongation, and permanent elongation, snagging, bending rigidity, and surface roughness of the fabrics produced were tested. Experimental results were evaluated statistically. According to the results obtained; the parameters of the number of elastane yarn, the structure of the knit, the use of elastane as bare or core-spun, and the feeding position of elastane in the knit have a significant impact on the above-mentioned fabric properties. Yeşim Tekstil Liberec Teknik Üniversitesi

Bu çalışmada, elastan içerikli poliester iplik üretim parametrelerinin ipliklere ve bu ipliklerden elde edilen dokuma kumaş özelliklerine etkisi araştırılmıştır. Bu amaçla filament sayısı, elastan iplik numarası, elastan çekim oranı ve puntalama işleminde kullanılan düze tipi değiştirilerek 36 farklı elastan içerikli poliester iplik ve bu ipliklerden sabit üretim şartlarında dimi 3/3 örgü kullanılarak 36 farklı çeşit dokuma kumaş üretilmiştir. Üretim parametrelerin iplik özelliklerine etkisini araştırmak amacıyla iplik lineer yoğunluğu, punta sayısı, punta kalıcılığı, iplik kopma mukavemeti ve kopma uzaması değerleri; üretim parametrelerinin kumaş özelliklerine etkilerini inceleyebilmek için ise kumaş mukavemet, uzama ve konfor özellikleri standartlara uygun bir şekilde test edilmiştir. Testler sonrasında elde edilen değerler SPSS istatistik programında değerlendirilmiştir. Yapılan çalışma sonucunda poliester iplik filament sayısının, elastan numarasının, çekim oranının ve puntalama işleminde kullanılan düze tipinin iplik mukavemetine, punta sayısına, punta kalıcılığına değerlerine etkisinin istatistiksel olarak önemli olduğu görülmüştür. Kumaş kopma mukavemeti ve uzama değerleri filament sayısı ve elastan numarası arttıkça artmıştır. Konfor özellikleri incelendiğinde filament sayısı ve elastan numarası arttıkça su buharı geçirgenlik ve termal iletkenlik değerleri artmış, hava geçirgenliği değerleri azaldığı sonucuna varılmıştır. In this study, the effects of elastane-containing poliester yarn production parameters on yarns and woven fabric properties obtained from these yarns were investigated. For this purpose, 36 different types of woven fabrics were produced by changing the filament count, elastane yarn count, elastane draw ratio and the nozzle type used in the centering process, 36 different poliester yarns with elastane content and 36 different woven fabrics using twill 3/3 weave from these yarns under constant production conditions. In order to investigate the effect of production parameters on yarn properties, yarn linear density, number of centers, center persistence, yarn breaking strength and breaking elongation values; In order to examine the effects of production parameters on fabric properties, fabric strength, elongation and comfort properties were tested in accordance with the standards. The values obtained after the tests were evaluated in the SPSS statistical program. As a result of the study, it was seen that the effect of poliester yarn filament number, elastane number, elastane draw ratio and the nozzle type used in the centering process on the yarn strength, number of centers, and center persistence values were statistically significant. Fabric tensile strength and elongation values increased with increasing filament number and elastane number. When the comfort properties were examined, it was concluded that as the filament number and elastane number increased, water vapor permeability and thermal conductivity increased, and air permeability decreased.

Tema ovog diplomskog rada su rastezna svojstva pređe i pletiva različitih finoća i sirovinskog sastava. Za istraživanje rasteznih svojstava, korištene su češljane jednostruke pređe jednakog sirovinskog sastava – izrađene iz pamučnih vlakana, ali različite finoće (12, 14, te 20 tex). Iz navedenih su pređa izrađena kulirna glatka desno-lijeva pletiva, bez i s dodatkom elastanske pređe (6, 8 i 13%) U eksperimentalnom se dijelu ispituju njihova rastezna svojstva. Na dinamometru su ispitana rastezna svojstva pređa primjenom tri metode ispitivanja, te rastezna svojstva pletiva ispitana u suhom i mokrom stanju. Dodatno, pletiva su ispitana i primjenom metode probijanja kuglom, također u suhom i mokrom stanju. Prikazani rezultati mjerenja omogućili su donošenje zaključnih postavaka o međuovisnosti finoće pređe i rasteznih svojstava pređe, kao i o utjecaju primjene različitih metoda mjerenja na konačne rezultate. Vezano uz pletiva, pokazalo se da su pletiva rastezljivija u smjeru nizova, te je komentiran utjecaj finoće pređe i udjela elastanske pređe u strukturi pletiva na vrijednosti rasteznih svojstava u suhom i mokrom stanju., The theme of this graduate thesis is tensile properties of yarns and knits of different fineness and different raw composition. For exploring tensile properties, combed single yarns were used, there are of the same raw composition but different fineness (12,14 and 20 tex). From those yarns, single jersey knits were made with different raw material composition, cotton and mixture of cotton and elastane (6,8 and 13%). Tensile properties were tested and their resultes were compared considering the fineness and raw material composition. Yarn tensile properties were tested with dynamometer applying three methods, and tensile properties of knits were tested in dry and wet condition. The results of tested yarns showed that tensile properties are higher with increasing fineness. The results of the measurements enabled conclusion-making regarding the interdependence of the yarn fineness and tensile properties, as well as the influence of the application of different measurement methods to the final results. Regarding the knitted fabrics, it was shown that those are more stretchable in the direction of wales. The influence of the yarn fineness and the share of the elastic yarn in the knitting structure on the values of tensile properties in dry and wet condition is commented.

In this work, the influence of various structural and process parameters (such as linear density of core and cover and draw ratio) on the mechanical behaviour of elastane yarn has been thoroughly investigated. According to the experimental results, elastane yarns with high linear density core and cover and produced using higher draw ratio showed the best mechanical properties in terms of both strength and extension.

In this study, the effects of spandex brand, the tightness factor of the base, and spandex yarn on the dimensional and physical properties of cotton/spandex single jersey fabrics are investigated. In order to examine the effects of the tightness factor of cotton and spandex yarn, fabric samples were knitted by feeding both cotton and spandex yarns with three different adjustments of positive yarn feeding mechanisms so as to produce tight, medium, and loose cotton/spandex single jersey fabrics. Four different spandex yarns were used. The fabrics knitted with spandex yarns that have the largest tension values under a constant draw ratio give the highest weight, courses/cm, stitches/cm, thickness, and lowest air permeability values. Spandex yarns that have similar elongation % values affect the wale per cm values in a similar way. Because of the greater stretched structure of the spandex yarns that have shorter loop length values, the width of the fabric decreases and then the thickness of the fabric increases.

This paper presents the effects of elastane yarn type and fabric density on the seam performance of PET/ elastane woven fabrics. In this study, 12 different weft stretched fabrics were woven with 2 different weft yarns, 2 different weave types and 3 different weft densities. The weft and warp yarns of the weft stretched fabrics were polyester-elastane covered yarn and polyester yarn, respectively. Air-covered and twisted elastane weft yarns were used at twill and plain fabrics. Needle penetration forces were determined on an L&M Sewability tester for seam performance. Besides this, "needle damage index" was calculated for seam damage. The values of the needle penetration forces were between 64 cN and 370 cN and the needle damage index values were between 18% and 73%. Elastane yarn type and fabric density had significant effects on the needle penetration force. Photographs were taken with an optical microscope to show the seam damage during sewing.

The impact of input tension of elastane and cotton yarns upon the structure and relaxation of plain jersey knitted fabrics is investigated. There are considerable differences in the behaviour of conventional knitted fabrics and the fabrics with elastane yarns incorporated in the structure. One of the key factors in knitting is certainly the input tension of the yarn, as it impacts the structure and properties of such knitted fabrics. Horizontal and vertical density, as well as surface mass grows with the prolonged relaxation period as they grow with the increase of knitting yarn input tension. Increase in knitting yarn input tension reduces the length of the yarn in the loop. If cotton yarn is platted with elastane one, the length of the yarn in the loop is reduced for about 2 to 5%, as compared with the yarn in a course without the elastane yarn. This can result in horizontal streaks in the knitted fabric. The most prominent dimensional changes in the direction of the courses and wales occur with the samples knitted with the highest input tension on knitting yarns. The best results of measuring structural parameters and dimensional changes in knitted fabrics in relaxation have been exhibited by knitted samples with the lowest input tension. In constructing knitted fabrics input tension of the yarns should be taken into account, as it considerably affects fabric properties.