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While the properties and the shape of the ground state of a gas of ultracold bosons are well understood in harmonic potentials, they remain for a large part unknown in the case of random potentials. Here, we use the localization-landscape (LL) theory to study the properties of the solutions to the Gross-Pitaevskii equation (GPE) in one-dimensional (1D) speckle potentials. In the cases of attractive interactions, we find that the LL allows one to predict the position of the localization center of the ground state (GS) of the GPE. For weakly repulsive interactions, we point out that the GS of the quasi-1D GPE can be understood as a superposition of a finite number of single-particle states, which can be computed by exploiting the LL. For intermediate repulsive interactions, we introduce a Thomas-Fermi-like approach for the GS which holds in the smoothing regime, well beyond the usual approximation involving the original potential. Moreover, we show that, in the Lifshitz glass regime, the particle density and the chemical potential can be well estimated by the LL. Our approach can be applied to any positive-valued random potential endowed with finite-range correlations and can be generalized to higher-dimensional systems., Comment: 19 pages, 10 figures, 7 tables

A model coupling waves and currents is set up for Galway Bay, Ireland, using COAWST. The impact of the coupling on the accuracy of the model is shown to be marginal on the overall statistics. The model is in good agreement with the available in-situ observations that are used for the validation. However a closer look at the data during storms shows a deterioration of the agreement, which is barely improved by the coupling. A special analysis of the different processes ruling the ocean circulation and wave propagation is conducted during Storm Hector (2018/06/14). It shows a strong wave-induced surge by 7cm in the back of Galway Bay, and a strong response in terms of currents along the coast of Clare of about 30cm/s. Most of the surge is attributed to the impact of the conservative wave-induced forcing terms, but the main process involved is not identified. The response in currents is partly attributed to the conservative wave-induced forcing terms, but mostly to the wave-enhanced surface roughness., Comment: 44 pages, 18 figures, 9 tables

A nested large-scale wave model that covers most of the Atlantic Ocean and focuses on generating accurate swell conditions for Ireland is presented and validated over the two years 2016 and 2017. The impact of currents is studied using the surface currents from the GLORYS product. Currents slightly reduce by 1\% the error of the model compared to altimetry data, but they explain most of the wave energy at scales less than 50 meters. The variability induced by currents is found to be more noticeable on the instantaneous fields, up to 50 cm. Track following observations indicate that wave refraction induced by mesoscale eddies is correctly captured. However, this modulation is of the same order as a shorter-scale variability appearing in the altimetry data, which makes it difficult to objectively assess the impact of currents., Comment: 31 pages, 15 figures

In this paper, we present an efficient, accurate and fully Lagrangian numerical solver for modeling wave interaction with oscillating wave energy converter (OWSC). The key idea is to couple SPHinXsys, an open-source multi-physics library in unified smoothed particle hydrodynamic (SPH) framework, with Simbody which presents an object-oriented Application Programming Interface (API) for multi-body dynamics. More precisely, the wave dynamics and its interaction with OWSC is resolved by Riemann-based weakly-compressible SPH method using SPHinXsys, and the solid-body kinematics is computed by Simbody library. Numerical experiments demonstrate that the proposed solver can accurately predict the wave elevations, flap rotation and wave loading on the flap in comparison with laboratory experiment. In particularly, the new solver shows optimized computational performance through CPU cost analysis and comparison with commercial software package ANSYS FLUENT and other SPH-based solvers in literature. Furthermore, a linear damper is applied for imitating the power take-off (PTO) system to study its effects on the hydrodynamics properties of OWSC and efficiency of energy harvesting. In addition, the present solver is used to model extreme wave condition using the focused wave approach to investigate the extreme loads and motions of OWSC under such extreme wave conditions. It worth noting that though the model validation used herein is a bottom hinged oscillating Wave Energy Converter (WEC), the obtained numerical results show promising potential of the proposed solver to future applications in the design of high-performance WECs., Comment: 21 pages 13 figures

Solitons are coherent structures that describe the nonlinear evolution of wave localizations in hydrodynamics, optics, plasma and Bose-Einstein condensates. While the Peregrine breather is known to amplify a single localized perturbation of a carrier wave of finite amplitude by a factor of three, there is a counterpart solution on zero background known as the degenerate two-soliton which also leads to high amplitude maxima. In this study, we report several observations of such multi-soliton with doubly-localized peaks in a water wave flume. The data collected in this experiment confirm the distinctive attainment of wave amplification by a factor of two in good agreement with the dynamics of the nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation solution. Advanced numerical simulations solving the problem of nonlinear free water surface boundary conditions of an ideal fluid quantify the physical limitations of the degenerate two-soliton in hydrodynamics.

Accurate and efficient tsunami modelling is essential for providing tsunami forecasts and hazard assessments. Volna-OP2 is a finite volume solver of the nonlinear shallow water equations and its capabilities of producing both faster than real time ensembles and high resolution inundation studies are presented here. The code is massively parallelised and can utilise various high performance computing architectures. When an earthquake is detected there is always some uncertainty on the source parameters. Generating a faster than real time ensemble for maximum wave heights which captures this uncertainty would be of great benefit to tsunami warning centres. The 2003 Boumerdes earthquake (Algeria) acts as a test case for showing Volna-OP2's ability at rapidly forecasting regional maximum wave heights. Drawing on various earthquake sources proposed in the literature and scaling the magnitudes to mimic uncertainty on the source, 20 separate earthquake realisations are simulated for 4 hours real time in 97s on two Nvidia V100 GPUs. Further a reduced ensemble of the Lisbon 1755 tsunami with an emphasis on the effects to the Irish coastline is presented. Where again various earthquake sources have been drawn from the literature and simulated on a regional scale. Finally, a pilot study which builds upon the reduced ensemble results investigates the inundation of a Lisbon tsunami on key sections of the Irish coastline. The results of this pilot study highlight that the inundation is constrained to low-lying areas with maximum run-up heights of $\approx 3.4m$ being found.

The software package Volna-OP2 is a robust and efficient code capable of simulating the complete life cycle of a tsunami whilst harnessing the latest High Performance Computing (HPC) architectures. In this paper, a comprehensive error analysis and scalability study of the GPU version of the code is presented. A novel decomposition of the numerical errors into the dispersion and dissipation components is explored. Most tsunami codes exhibit amplitude smearing and/or phase lagging/leading, so the decomposition shown here is a new approach and novel tool for explaining these occurrences. It is the first time that the errors of a tsunami code have been assessed in this manner. To date, Volna-OP2 has been widely used by the tsunami modelling community. In particular its computational efficiency has allowed various sensitivity analyses and uncertainty quantification studies. Due to the number of simulations required, there is always a trade-off between accuracy and runtime when carrying out these statistical studies. The analysis presented in this paper will guide the user towards an acceptable level of accuracy within a given runtime.

Usual inversion for earthquake source parameters from tsunami wave data incorporates subjective elements. Noisy and possibly insufficient data also results in instability and non-uniqueness in most deterministic inversions. Here we employ the satellite altimetry data for the 2004 Sumatra-Andaman tsunami event to invert the source parameters. Using a finite fault model that represents the extent of rupture and the geometry of the trench, we perform a non-linear joint inversion of the slips, rupture velocities and rise times with minimal a priori constraints. Despite persistently good waveform fits, large variance and skewness in the joint parameter distribution constitute a remarkable feature of the inversion. These uncertainties suggest the need for objective inversion strategies that should incorporate more sophisticated physical models in order to significantly improve the performance of early warning systems.

There are many examples in physics of systems showing rogue wave behaviour, the generation of high amplitude events at low probability. Although initially studied in oceanography, rogue waves have now been seen in many other domains, with particular recent interest in optics. Although most studies in optics have focussed on how nonlinearity can drive rogue wave emergence, purely linear effects have also been shown to induce extreme wave amplitudes. In this paper, we report a detailed experimental study of linear rogue waves in an optical system, using a spatial light modulator to impose random phase structure on a coherent optical field. After free space propagation, different random intensity patterns are generated, including partially-developed speckle, a broadband caustic network, and an intermediate pattern with characteristics of both speckle and caustic structures. Intensity peaks satisfying statistical criteria for rogue waves are seen especially in the case of the caustic network, and are associated with broader spatial spectra. In addition, the electric field statistics of the intermediate pattern shows properties of an optical sea with near-Gaussian statistics in elevation amplitude, and trough-to-crest statistics that are near-Rayleigh distributed but with an extended tail where a number of rogue wave events are observed., Comment: 10 pages, 5 figures, to be published in Scientific Reports

Optical rogue waves are rare yet extreme fluctuations in the value of an optical field. The terminology was first used in the context of an analogy between pulse propagation in optical fibre and wave group propagation on deep water, but has since been generalized to describe many other processes in optics. This paper provides an overview of this field, concentrating primarily on propagation in optical fibre systems that exhibit nonlinear breather and soliton dynamics, but also discussing other optical systems where extreme events have been reported. Although statistical features such as long-tailed probability distributions are often considered the defining feature of rogue waves, we emphasise the underlying physical processes that drive the appearance of extreme optical structures., Comment: 38 pages, 6 figures

In this paper, an SPH method based on the SPH-ALE formulation is used for modelling two-phase flows with large density ratios and realistic sound speeds. The SPH scheme is further improved to circumvent the tensile instability that may occur in the SPH simulations. The two-phase SPH solver is then used to model a benchmark problem of liquid impact on a rigid wall. The results are compared with an incompressible Level Set solver. Furthermore, a wave impact on a rigid wall with a large entrained air pocket is modelled. The SPH simulation is initialised by the output of a fully non-linear potential flow solver. The pressure distribution, velocity field and impact pressure are then analysed., Comment: 18 pages, 11 figures, 33 references. Other author's papers can be downloaded at http://www.denys-dutykh.com/

Small islands in the vicinity of the mainland are believed to offer protection from wind and waves and thus coastal communities have been developed in these areas. However, what happens when it comes to tsunamis is not clear. Will these islands act as natural barriers ? Recent post-tsunami survey data, supported by numerical simulations, reveal that the run-up on coastal areas behind small islands was significantly higher than on neighboring locations not affected by the presence of the island. To study the conditions of this run- up amplification, we solve numerically the nonlinear shallow water equations (NSWE). We use the simplified geometry of a conical island sitting on a flat bed in front of a uniform sloping beach. By doing so, the experimental setup is defined by five physical parameters, namely the island slope, the beach slope, the water depth, the distance between the island and the plane beach and the incoming wavelength, while the wave height was kept fixed. The objective is twofold: Find the maximum run-up amplification with the least number of simulations. To achieve this goal, we build an emulator based on Gaussian Processes to guide the selection of the query points in the parameter space.

Observations show that maximally-steep breaking water wave crest speeds are much slower than expected. We report a wave-crest slowdown mechanism generic to unsteady propagating deep water wave groups. Our fully nonlinear computations show that just prior to reaching its maximum height, each wave crest slows down significantly and either breaks at this reduced speed, or accelerates forward unbroken. This finding is validated in our extensive laboratory and field observations. This behavior appears to be generic to unsteady dispersive wave groups in other natural systems., Comment: 12 double spaced pages including 3 figures

Wave impact and run-up onto vertical obstacles are among the most important phenomena which must be taken into account in the design of coastal structures. From linear wave theory, we know that the wave amplitude on a vertical wall is twice the incident wave amplitude with weakly nonlinear theories bringing small corrections to this result. In this present study, however, we show that certain simple wave groups may produce much higher run-ups than previously predicted, with particular incident wave frequencies resulting in run up heights exceeding the initial wave amplitude by a factor of 5, suggesting that the notion of the design wave used in coastal structure design may need to be revisited. The results presented in this study can be considered as a note of caution for practitioners, on one side, and as a challenging novel material for theoreticians who work in the field of extreme wave - coastal structure interaction., Comment: 13 pages, 7 figures, 44 references. Other author's papers can be downloaded from http://www.denys-dutykh.com/

The extreme characteristics of long wave run-up are studied in this paper. First we give a brief overview of the existing theory which is mainly based on the hodograph transformation (Carrier & Greenspan, 1958). Then, using numerical simulations, we build on the work of Stefanakis et al. (2011) for an infinite sloping beach and we find that resonant run-up amplification of monochromatic waves is robust to spectral perturbations of the incoming wave and resonant regimes do exist for certain values of the frequency. In the setting of a finite beach attached to a constant depth region, resonance can only be observed when the incoming wavelength is larger than the distance from the undisturbed shoreline to the seaward boundary. Wavefront steepness is also found to play a role in wave run-up, with steeper waves reaching higher run-up values., Comment: 25 pages, 17 figures, 44 references. Other author's papers can be downloaded at http://www.denys-dutykh.com/

This paper investigates the interaction of plane incident waves with a wave farm in the open ocean. The farm consists of a periodic array of large flap-type wave energy converters. A linear inviscid potential-flow model, already developed by the authors for a single flap in a channel, is considered. Asymptotic analysis of the wave field allows to obtain new expressions of the reflection, transmission and radiation coefficients of the system. It is shown that, unlike a line of heaving buoys, an array of flap-type converters is able to exploit resonance of the system transverse modes in order to attain high capture factor levels. Relations between the hydrodynamic coefficients are derived and applied for optimising the power output of the wave farm., Comment: Accepted for publication on Applied Ocean Research, 26 Sept 2012

With an increasing emphasis on renewable energy resources, wave power technology is fast becoming a realistic solution. However, the recent tsunami in Japan was a harsh reminder of the ferocity of the ocean. It is known that tsunamis are nearly undetectable in the open ocean but as the wave approaches the shore its energy is compressed creating large destructive waves. The question posed here is whether a nearshore wave energy converter (WEC) could withstand the force of an incoming tsunami. The analytical 3D model of Renzi & Dias (2012) developed within the framework of a linear theory and applied to an array of fixed plates is used. The time derivative of the velocity potential allows the hydrodynamic force to be calculated., Comment: 12 pages, 6 figures, 2 tables, 16 references. Paper presented at the ISOPE-2012 conference. Other author's papers can be downloaded at http://www.lama.univ-savoie.fr/~dutykh/

While the propagation of tsunamis is well understood and well simulated by numerical models, there are still a number of unanswered questions related to the generation of tsunamis or the subsequent inundation. We review some of the basic generation mechanisms as well as their simulation. In particular, we present a simple and computationally inexpensive model that describes the seabed displacement during an underwater earthquake. This model is based on the finite fault solution for the slip distribution under some assumptions on the kinematics of the rupturing process. We also consider an unusual source for tsunami generation: the sinking of a cruise ship. Then we review some aspects of tsunami run-up. In particular, we explain why the first wave of a tsunami is sometimes less devastating than the subsequent waves. A resonance effect can boost the waves that come later. We also look at a particular feature of the 11 March 2011 tsunami in Japan - the formation of macro-scale vortices - and show that these macro-scale vortices can be captured by the nonlinear shallow water equations., Comment: 22 pages, 22 figures, 37 references. Manuscript submitted to Procedia IUTAM. Other author papers can be downloaded at http://www.lama.univ-savoie.fr/~dutykh/

Until now the analysis of long wave runup on a plane beach has been focused on finding its maximum value, failing to capture the existence of resonant regimes. One-dimensional numerical simulations in the framework of the Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations (NSWE) are used to investigate the Boundary Value Problem (BVP) for plane and non-trivial beaches. Monochromatic waves, as well as virtual wave-gage recordings from real tsunami simulations, are used as forcing conditions to the BVP. Resonant phenomena between the incident wavelength and the beach slope are found to occur, which result in enhanced runup of non-leading waves. The evolution of energy reveals the existence of a quasi-periodic state for the case of sinusoidal waves, the energy level of which, as well as the time required to reach that state, depend on the incident wavelength for a given beach slope. Dispersion is found to slightly reduce the value of maximum runup, but not to change the overall picture. Runup amplification occurs for both leading elevation and depression waves., Comment: 10 pages, 7 Figures. Accepted to Physical Review Letters. Other author's papers can be downloaded at http://www.lama.univ-savoie.fr/~dutykh/

The present study is devoted to the problem of tsunami wave generation. The main goal of this work is two-fold. First of all, we propose a simple and computationally inexpensive model for the description of the sea bed displacement during an underwater earthquake, based on the finite fault solution for the slip distribution under some assumptions on the dynamics of the rupturing process. Once the bottom motion is reconstructed, we study waves induced on the free surface of the ocean. For this purpose we consider three different models approximating the Euler equations of the water wave theory. Namely, we use the linearized Euler equations (we are in fact solving the Cauchy-Poisson problem), a Boussinesq system and a novel weakly nonlinear model. An intercomparison of these approaches is performed. The developments of the present study are illustrated on the 17 July 2006 Java event, where an underwater earthquake of magnitude 7.7 generated a tsunami that inundated the southern coast of Java., Comment: 31 pages, 10 figures, 3 tables. Other author's papers can be downloaded at http://www.lama.univ-savoie.fr/~dutykh/

A novel tool for tsunami wave modelling is presented. This tool has the potential of being used for operational purposes: indeed, the numerical code \VOLNA is able to handle the complete life-cycle of a tsunami (generation, propagation and run-up along the coast). The algorithm works on unstructured triangular meshes and thus can be run in arbitrary complex domains. This paper contains the detailed description of the finite volume scheme implemented in the code. The numerical treatment of the wet/dry transition is explained. This point is crucial for accurate run-up/run-down computations. Most existing tsunami codes use semi-empirical techniques at this stage, which are not always sufficient for tsunami hazard mitigation. Indeed the decision to evacuate inhabitants is based on inundation maps which are produced with this type of numerical tools. We present several realistic test cases that partially validate our algorithm. Comparisons with analytical solutions and experimental data are performed. Finally the main conclusions are outlined and the perspectives for future research presented., Comment: 47 pages, 27 figures. Other author's papers can be downloaded at http://www.lama.univ-savoie.fr/~dutykh/

When solitary waves are characterized as homoclinic orbits of a finite-dimensional Hamiltonian system, they have an integer-valued topological invariant, the Maslov index. We are interested in developing a robust numerical algorithm to compute the Maslov index, to understand its properties, and to study the implications for the stability of solitary waves. The algorithms reported here are developed in the exterior algebra representation, which leads to a robust and fast algorithm with some novel properties. We use two different representations for the Maslov index, one based on an intersection index and one based on approximating the homoclinic orbit by a sequence of periodic orbits. New results on the Maslov index for solitary wave solutions of reaction-diffusion equations, the fifth-order Korteweg-De Vries equation, and the longwave-shortwave resonance equations are presented. Part 1 considers the case of four-dimensional phase space, and Part 2 considers the case of $2n-$dimensional phase space with $n>2$., Comment: 59 pages

In the vast literature on tsunami research, few articles have been devoted to energy issues. A theoretical investigation on the energy of waves generated by bottom motion is performed here. We start with the full incompressible Euler equations in the presence of a free surface and derive both dispersive and non-dispersive shallow-water equations with an energy equation. It is shown that dispersive effects only appear at higher order in the energy budget. Then we solve the Cauchy-Poisson problem of tsunami generation for the linearized water wave equations. Exchanges between potential and kinetic energies are clearly revealed., Comment: 20 pages, 12 figures. Accepted to Proceedings of the Royal Society A. Other authors papers and supporting material can be downloaded at http://www.lama.univ-savoie.fr/~dutykh

The present article is devoted to the influence of sediment layers on the process of tsunami generation. The main scope here is to demonstrate and especially quantify the effect of sedimentation on vertical displacements of the seabed due to an underwater earthquake. The fault is modelled as a Volterra-type dislocation in an elastic half-space. The elastodynamics equations are integrated with a finite element method. A comparison between two cases is performed. The first one corresponds to the classical situation of an elastic homogeneous and isotropic half-space, which is traditionally used for the generation of tsunamis. The second test case takes into account the presence of a sediment layer separating the oceanic column from the hard rock. Some important differences are revealed. We conjecture that deformations in the generation region may be amplified by sedimentary deposits, at least for some parameter values. The mechanism of amplification is studied through careful numerical simulations., Comment: 17 pages, 12 figures. Revised version for Computer Methods in Applied Mechanics and Engineering. Other author's papers can be downloaded from http://www.lama.univ-savoie.fr/~dutykh/

In the study of ocean wave impact on structures, one often uses Froude scaling since the dominant force is gravity. However the presence of trapped or entrained air in the water can significantly modify wave impacts. When air is entrained in water in the form of small bubbles, the acoustic properties in the water change dramatically. While some work has been done to study small-amplitude disturbances in such mixtures, little work has been done on large disturbances in air-water mixtures. We propose a basic two-fluid model in which both fluids share the same velocities and analyze some of its properties. It is shown that this model can successfully mimic water wave impacts on coastal structures. The governing equations are discretized by a second-order finite volume method. Numerical results are presented for two examples: the dam break problem and the drop test problem. It is shown that this basic model can be used to study violent aerated flows, especially by providing fast qualitative estimates., Comment: 23 pages, 19 figures.Accepted to Computers and Fluids. Other authors publications and related animations can be downloaded at http://www.lama.univ-savoie.fr/~dutykh

In the study of ocean wave impact on structures, one often uses Froude scaling since the dominant force is gravity. However the presence of trapped or entrained air in the water can significantly modify wave impacts. When air is entrained in water in the form of small bubbles, the acoustic properties in the water change dramatically and for example the speed of sound in the mixture is much smaller than in pure water, and even smaller than in pure air. While some work has been done to study small-amplitude disturbances in such mixtures, little work has been done on large disturbances in air-water mixtures. We propose a basic two-fluid model in which both fluids share the same velocities. It is shown that this model can successfully mimic water wave impacts on coastal structures. Even though this is a model without interface, waves can occur. Their dispersion relation is discussed and the formal limit of pure phases (interfacial waves) is considered. The governing equations are discretized by a second-order finite volume method. Numerical results are presented. It is shown that this basic model can be used to study violent aerated flows, especially by providing fast qualitative estimates., Comment: 38 pages, 22 figures; CMLA research report; Other authors papers and animations related to this work can be downloaded from: http://www.lama.univ-savoie.fr/~dutykh/

The purpose of this communication is to discuss the simulation of a free surface compressible flow between two fluids, typically air and water. We use a two fluid model with the same velocity, pressure and temperature for both phases. In such a numerical model, the free surface becomes a thin three dimensional zone. The present method has at least three advantages: (i) the free-surface treatment is completely implicit; (ii) it can naturally handle wave breaking and other topological changes in the flow; (iii) one can easily vary the Equation of States (EOS) of each fluid (in principle, one can even consider tabulated EOS). Moreover, our model is unconditionally hyperbolic for reasonable EOS., Comment: 8 pages, 10 figures; OMAE2008, 27th International Conference on Offshore Mechanics and Arctic Engineering. Other authors papers and animations related to this work can be downloaded from: http://www.cmla.ens-cachan.fr/fileadmin/Membres/dutykh/ The paper was slightly modified according to referees comments

In classical tsunami-generation techniques, one neglects the dynamic sea bed displacement resulting from fracturing of a seismic fault. The present study takes into account these dynamic effects. Earth's crust is assumed to be a Kelvin-Voigt material. The seismic source is assumed to be a dislocation in a viscoelastic medium. The fluid motion is described by the classical nonlinear shallow water equations (NSWE) with time-dependent bathymetry. The viscoelastodynamic equations are solved by a finite-element method and the NSWE by a finite-volume scheme. A comparison between static and dynamic tsunami-generation approaches is performed. The results of the numerical computations show differences between the two approaches and the dynamic effects could explain the complicated shapes of tsunami wave trains., Comment: 16 pages, 10 figures, Accepted to Mathematics and Computers in Simulation. Other author's papers can be downloaded at http://www.cmla.ens-cachan.fr/~dutykh

The theory of internal waves between two layers of immiscible fluids is important both for its applications in oceanography and engineering, and as a source of interesting mathematical model equations that exhibit nonlinearity and dispersion. A Boussinesq system for two-way propagation of interfacial waves in a rigid lid configuration is derived. In most cases, the nonlinearity is quadratic. However, when the square of the depth ratio is close to the density ratio, the coefficients of the quadratic nonlinearities become small and cubic nonlinearities must be considered. The propagation as well as the collision of solitary waves and/or fronts is studied numerically., Comment: 38 pages, 59 figures

It is shown that there is an overlooked mechanism whereby some kinds of dissipation can enhance the Benjamin-Feir instability of water waves. This observation is new, and although it is counterintuitive, it is due to the fact that the Benjamin-Feir instability involves the collision of modes with opposite energy sign (relative to the carrier wave), and it is the negative energy perturbations which are enhanced., Comment: 15 pages, 2 figures To download more papers, go to http://www.cmla.ens-cachan.fr/~dias. Physics of Fluids (2007) to appear

It is shown how to model weakly dissipative free-surface flows using the classical potential flow approach. The Helmholtz-Leray decomposition is applied to the linearized 3D Navier-Stokes equations. The governing equations are treated using Fourier--Laplace transforms. We show how to express the vortical component of the velocity only in terms of the potential and free-surface elevation. A new predominant nonlocal viscous term is derived in the bottom kinematic boundary condition. The resulting formulation is simple and does not involve any correction procedure as in previous viscous potential flow theories [Joseph2004]. Corresponding long wave model equations are derived., Comment: 6 pages, published at CRAS. Other author's papers can be downloaded at http://www.cmla.ens-cachan.fr/~dutykh

The classical theory of water waves is based on the theory of inviscid flows. However it is important to include viscous effects in some applications. Two models are proposed to add dissipative effects in the context of the Boussinesq equations, which include the effects of weak dispersion and nonlinearity in a shallow water framework. The dissipative Boussinesq equations are then integrated numerically., Comment: 40 pages, 15 figures, published in C. R. Mecanique 335 (2007) Other author's papers can be downloaded at http://www.cmla.ens-cachan.fr/~dutykh

Tsunamis are often generated by a moving sea bottom. This paper deals with the case where the tsunami source is an earthquake. The linearized water-wave equations are solved analytically for various sea bottom motions. Numerical results based on the analytical solutions are shown for the free-surface profiles, the horizontal and vertical velocities as well as the bottom pressure., Comment: 41 pages, 13 figures. Accepted for publication in a book: "Tsunami and Nonlinear Waves", Kundu, Anjan (Editor), Springer 2007, Approx. 325 p., 170 illus., Hardcover, ISBN: 978-3-540-71255-8, available: May 2007

The computation of long wave propagation through the ocean obviously depends on the initial condition. When the waves are generated by a moving bottom, a traditional approach consists in translating the ``frozen'' sea bed deformation to the free surface and propagating it. The present study shows the differences between the classical approach (passive generation) and the active generation where the bottom motion is included. The analytical solutions presented here exhibit some of the drawbacks of passive generation. The linearized solutions seem to be sufficient to consider the generation of water waves by a moving bottom., Comment: 9 pages, 2 figures

The modeling of tsunami generation is an essential phase in understanding tsunamis. For tsunamis generated by underwater earthquakes, it involves the modeling of the sea bottom motion as well as the resulting motion of the water above it. A comparison between various models for three-dimensional water motion, ranging from linear theory to fully nonlinear theory, is performed. It is found that for most events the linear theory is sufficient. However, in some cases, more sophisticated theories are needed. Moreover, it is shown that the passive approach in which the seafloor deformation is simply translated to the ocean surface is not always equivalent to the active approach in which the bottom motion is taken into account, even if the deformation is supposed to be instantaneous., Comment: 39 pages, 16 figures; Accepted to Theoretical and Computational Fluid Dynamics. Several references have been added

The life of a tsunami is usually divided into three phases: the generation (tsunami source), the propagation and the inundation. Each phase is complex and often described separately. A brief description of each phase is given. Model problems are identified. Their formulation is given. While some of these problems can be solved analytically, most require numerical techniques. The inundation phase is less documented than the other phases. It is shown that methods based on Smoothed Particle Hydrodynamics (SPH) are particularly well-suited for the inundation phase. Directions for future research are outlined., Comment: 29 pages, 5 figures