1. Frontiers in Marine Science
- Author
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Rónadh Cox, Fabrice Ardhuin, Frédéric Dias, Ronan Autret, Nicole Beisiegel, Claire S. Earlie, James G. Herterich, Andrew Kennedy, Raphaël Paris, Alison Raby, Pál Schmitt, Robert Weiss, Center for Coastal Studies, Geosciences, Department of Geosciences, Williams College, Williamstown, MA, UCD Earth Institute, University College Dublin, Laboratoire d'Océanographie Physique et Spatiale (LOPS), Institut de Recherche pour le Développement (IRD)-Institut Français de Recherche pour l'Exploitation de la Mer (IFREMER)-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Université de Brest (UBO)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), School of Mathematics and Statistics, University College Dublin, Laboratoire de Dynamique et de Gestion Intégrée des Zones Côtières (LDGIZC), Université du Québec à Rimouski (UQAR), School of Earth and Ocean Sciences [Cardiff], Cardiff University, College of Engineering, Notre Dame University, Notre Dame, IN, Laboratoire Magmas et Volcans (LMV), Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Université Jean Monnet - Saint-Étienne (UJM)-Institut de Recherche pour le Développement et la société-Université Clermont Auvergne [2017-2020] (UCA [2017-2020])-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Observatoire de Physique du Globe de Clermont-Ferrand (OPGC), Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Université Clermont Auvergne [2017-2020] (UCA [2017-2020])-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Université Clermont Auvergne [2017-2020] (UCA [2017-2020])-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), Plymouth University, Queen's University [Belfast] (QUB), Department of Geosciences, Virginia Tech, Blacksburg, VA, Center for Coastal Studies, Virginia Tach, Blacksburg, VA, Institut de Recherche pour le Développement (IRD)-Institut Français de Recherche pour l'Exploitation de la Mer (IFREMER)-Université de Brest (UBO)-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS), Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)-Université Jean Monnet [Saint-Étienne] (UJM)-Institut de Recherche pour le Développement et la société-Université Clermont Auvergne [2017-2020] (UCA [2017-2020])-Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)-Observatoire de Physique du Globe de Clermont-Ferrand (OPGC), and School of Engineering, University of Plymouth, Plymouth
- Subjects
0106 biological sciences ,lcsh:QH1-199.5 ,010504 meteorology & atmospheric sciences ,Ocean Engineering ,lcsh:General. Including nature conservation, geographical distribution ,Coastal geography ,Hazard analysis ,Aquatic Science ,Environmental Science (miscellaneous) ,Oceanography ,01 natural sciences ,Wave height ,[SDU.STU.VO]Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Earth Sciences/Volcanology ,Hindcast ,coastal boulder deposits ,14. Life underwater ,SDG 14 - Life Below Water ,lcsh:Science ,0105 earth and related environmental sciences ,Wave power ,Water Science and Technology ,coastal erosion ,Global and Planetary Change ,Coastal hazards ,coastal geomorphology ,010604 marine biology & hydrobiology ,Storm ,coastal hazard ,Coastal erosion ,storm waves ,13. Climate action ,wave modeling ,hydrodynamic equations ,lcsh:Q ,tsunami ,Geology ,Seismology - Abstract
Coastal boulder deposits (CBD), transported by waves at elevations above sea level and substantial distances inland, are markers for marine incursions. Whether they are tsunami or storm deposits can be difficult to determine, but this is of critical importance because of the role that CBD play in coastal hazard analysis. Equations from seminal work by Nott (1997), here referred to as the Nott Approach, are commonly employed to calculate nominal wave heights from boulder masses as a means to discriminate between emplacement mechanisms. Systematic review shows that this approach is based on assumptions that are not securely founded and that direct relationships cannot be established between boulder measurements and wave heights. A test using an unprecedented dataset of boulders moved by storm waves (with associated sea-state data) shows a lack of agreement between calculations and actual wave heights. The equations return unrealistically large heights, many of which greatly exceed sea states occurring during the boulder-moving storms. This underscores the finding that Nott-Approach wave-height calculations are unreliable. The result is general, because although the field data come from one region (the Aran Islands, Ireland), they represent a wide range of boulder masses and topographic settings and present a valid test of hydrodynamic equations. This analysis demonstrates that Nott Approach equations are incapable of distinguishing storm waves from tsunami transport and that wave heights hindcast from boulder masses are not meaningful. Current hydrodynamic understanding does not permit reliable computation of wave height from boulder measurements. A combination of field, numerical, and experimental approaches is required to quantify relationships between wave power and mass transport onshore. Many CBD interpreted as tsunami deposits based on Nott-Approach analysis may in fact have been emplaced during storms and should therefore be re-evaluated. This is especially important for CBD that have been incorporated into long-term coastal risk assessments, which are compromised if the CBD are misinterpreted. CBD dynamics can be better determined from a combination of detailed field measurements, modeling, and experiments. A clearer understanding of emplacement mechanisms will result in more reliable hazard analysis. US-Ireland R&D Partnership Programme, by National Science Foundation award [1529756]; Science Foundation Ireland (SFI)Science Foundation Ireland [14/US/E3111]; Department for the Economy Northern Ireland [USI801]; SFI Centre for Marine and Renewable Energy (MaREI) [12/RC/2302]; World Faculty Fellowship through Williams College; National Science Foundation awardNational Science Foundation (NSF) [1661015] Research was supported under the US-Ireland R&D Partnership Programme, by National Science Foundation award 1529756 (RC); Science Foundation Ireland (SFI) award 14/US/E3111 (FD, NB, and JH); and Department for the Economy Northern Ireland Grant USI801 (PS). FD also acknowledges SFI award 12/RC/2302 through the SFI Centre for Marine and Renewable Energy (MaREI), and RC acknowledges additional support from a World Faculty Fellowship through Williams College. AK acknowledges National Science Foundation award 1661015.
- Published
- 2020
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