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Frederic Flament,1 Ghislain Francois,1 Huixia Qiu,2 Chengda Ye,2 Tomoo Hanaya,3 Dominique Batisse,3 Suzy Cointereau-Chardon,1 Mirela Donato Gianeti Seixas,4 Susi Elaine Dal Belo,4 Roland Bazin5 1Department of Applied Research and Development, L’Oreal Research and Innovation, Paris, France; 2Department of Applied Research and Development, L’Oreal Research and Innovation, Shanghai, People’s Republic of China; 3Department of Applied Research and Development, L’Oreal Research and Innovation, Tokyo, Japan; 4Department of Applied Research and Development, L’Oreal Research and Innovation, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil; 5RB Consult, Bievres, France Abstract: Skin pores (SP), as they are called by laymen, are common and benign features mostly located on the face (nose, cheeks, etc) that generate many aesthetic concerns or complaints. Despite the prevalence of skin pores, related literature is scarce. With the aim of describing the prevalence of skin pores and anatomic features among ethnic groups, a dermatoscopic instrument, using polarized lighting, coupled to a digital camera recorded the major features of skin pores (size, density, coverage) on the cheeks of 2,585 women in different countries and continents. A detection threshold of 250 µm, correlated to clinical scorings by experts, was input into a specific software to further allow for automatic counting of the SP density (N/cm2) and determination of their respective sizes in mm2. Integrating both criteria also led to establishing the relative part of the skin surface (as a percentage) that is actually covered by SP on cheeks. The results showed that the values of respective sizes, densities, and skin coverage: 1) were recorded in all studied subjects; 2) varied greatly with ethnicity; 3) plateaued with age in most cases; and 4) globally reflected self-assessment by subjects, in particular those who self-declare having “enlarged pores” like Brazilian women. Inversely, Chinese women were clearly distinct from other ethnicities in having very low density and sizes. Analyzing the present results suggests that facial skin pore’s morphology as perceived by human eye less result from functional criteria of associated appendages such as sebaceous glands. To what extent skin pores may be viewed as additional criteria of a photo-altered skin is an issue to be further addressed. Keywords: aging, clinical evaluation, ethnicity, imperfections, oily skin

Background: Although acne is a prevalent multifactorial inflammatory skin condition, few studies were performed in multiethnic populations., Objectives: To study the prevalence and determinants of acne in a multiethnic study at the start of puberty., Methods: This cross-sectional study is embedded in Generation R, a population-based prospective study from Rotterdam, the Netherlands. Three-dimensional facial photos at the center visit in 2016-2019 (of ∼13-year-olds) were used to grade acne severity using the Global Evaluation of the Acne Severity (GEA). Analyses were stratified by biological sex and explored through chi-square tests and multivariable ordinal logistic regression., Results: A total of 4561 children (51% girls) with a median age of 13.5 (IQR 13.3-13.6) were included. The visible acne prevalence (GEA 2-5) for girls vs boys was 62% vs 45% and moderate-to-severe acne (GEA 3-5) 14% vs 9%. Higher puberty stages (adjusted odds ratios: 1.38 [1.20-1.59] and 2.16 [1.86-2.51] for girls and boys, respectively) and darker skin colors V and VI (adjusted odds ratios: 1.90 [1.17-3.08] and 2.43 [1.67-3.56]) were associated with more severe acne in both sexes, and being overweight in boys (adjusted odds ratio: 1.58 [1.15-2.17])., Limitations: Cross-sectional design., Conclusions: Acne prevalence was high at the age of 13 years and was associated with advanced puberty, darker skin color, and weight status., Competing Interests: Conflicts of interest Author Witkam was financially supported by L’Oréal. Authors Dal Belo, Pourhamidi, Raynaud, Moreau, and Aguilar are employees of L’Oréal and had a role on the analysis and writing of the manuscript. The other authors have no conflicts of interest to declare., (Copyright © 2023 American Academy of Dermatology, Inc. Published by Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.)

Introduction: Acne vulgaris (acne) is characterized by both inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions. Benzoyl peroxide (BPO) 5% is approved to treat acne but may cause skin irritation and/or contact allergy., Objectives: To compare the benefit in acne of a multitargeted dermocosmetic cream containing salicylic acid, lipohydroxy acid, niacinamide, 2-oleamido-1,3-octadecanediol, piroctone olamine, zinc, Aqua posae filiformis, and thermal spring water (DC-Eff) to BPO 5% gel., Materials and Methods: 150 Caucasian subjects (50% female) aged between 18 and 40 years, with mild to moderate acne according to the GEA (Global Evaluation of Acne) grading system were randomized into two parallel groups (DC-Eff or BPO to be applied twice daily for 56 days). IGA (investigator global assessment), GEA, lesion count, clinical signs and symptoms, and subject assessment were evaluated at baseline, and after 28 and 56 days (D28 and D56) of treatment., Results: The responder analyses of the IGA and GEA scores showed that 62.2% and 47.3%, respectively, in the DC-Eff, compared with 50.0% and 36.5%, respectively, in the BPO, had improved by at least one point at D56. Inflammatory, non-inflammatory, and total lesion counts significantly (p < 0.0001) decreased with both products from baseline, with no between-group difference. Subjects considered that their skin was smoother and that DC-Eff was easy to apply. DC-Eff was better tolerated than BPO., Conclusions: DC-Eff applied twice daily is as beneficial as BPO in improving mild-to-moderate acne. DC-Eff was better tolerated than BPO and highly appreciated., (© 2023 L'Oréal Research and Innovation. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.)

The beneficial photoprotective effects of topical formulations containing combined extracts of Ginkgo biloba (GB) and green tea (GT) have not been investigated. The present study aims to assess the photoprotective effects of topical formulations containing GB and GT combined or not by applications on the dorsal skin of hairless mice prior to UVA/B irradiation. After 20 h, skin barrier damage (TEWL), erythema, histological alterations and sunburn cell formation were evaluated. The results showed that only extract supplemented formulations protected the skin against the UV-induced damage. Formulations containing GB provided total protection of the skin barrier function avoiding UV radiation damage such as TEWL and erythema and were more effective than those containing GT. However, it is suggested that formulations containing combined GB and GT may provide substantial photoprotective effects since different aspects of skin damage were influenced by each extract., (Copyright © 2011 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.)

Green tea (Camellia sinensis) and Ginkgo biloba extracts in cosmetic formulations have been suggested to protect the skin against UV-induced damage and skin ageing. Thus, it is very important to assess the human skin penetration of their major flavonoids to verify if they penetrate and remain in the skin to exert their proposed effects. The aim of this study was to evaluate the human skin penetration of epigallocatechin-3-gallate (EGCG) and quercetin from green tea and G. biloba extracts vehiculated in cosmetic formulations. This study was conducted with fresh dermatomed human Caucasian skin from abdominal surgery mounted on static Franz diffusion cells. Skin samples were mounted between two diffusion half-cells and 10 mg/cm(2) of formulations supplemented with 6% of green tea or G. biloba extract were applied on the skin surface. The receptor fluid was removed after 6 and 24 h and analyzed by high-performance liquid chromatography for the quantification of the flavonoids. The stratum corneum was removed by tape stripping and immersed in methanol and the epidermis was mechanically separated from the dermis and triturated in methanol to extract EGCG and quercetin. The results showed that the flavonoids under study penetrated into the skin, without reaching the receptor fluid. The majority of EGCG was quantified in the stratum corneum (0.87 microg/cm(2)), which was statistically higher than the EGCG concentrations found in viable epidermis (0.54 microg/cm(2)) and in the dermis (0.38 microg/cm(2)). The majority of quercetin was quantified in the viable epidermis (0.23 microg/cm(2)), which was statistically higher than the EGCG concentration found in the stratum corneum layer (0.17 microg/cm(2)). Finally, it can be concluded that EGCG and quercetin from green tea and G. biloba extracts vehiculated in cosmetic formulations presented good skin penetration and retention, which can favor their skin effects.