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Background: Acne vulgaris (acne) is a common, complex, multifactorial disorder. Various expressions of acne in childhood can be categorized by age, severity, and pubertal status., Objective: To improve pediatric acne patients’ outcomes, various expressions of pediatric acne to educate and tailor nonprescription acne treatment and skincare using cleansers and moisturizers were defined and discussed., Methods: An expert panel of pediatric dermatologists and dermatologists reviewed and discussed nonprescription acne treatment and skincare literature. The results from the literature searches were used together with the panel’s expert opinion and experience to adopt various expressions of pediatric acne and prevention, treatment, and maintenance of the condition using nonprescription acne treatment and skincare., Results: The panel agreed on sixteen acne patient profiles addressing various age categories of pediatric acne: neonatal acne: birth to ≤ 8 weeks; infantile acne: 8 weeks to ≤1 year; mid-childhood acne: 1 year to <7 years; preadolescent acne: ≥7 to 12 years; adolescent acne: ≥12 to 19 years or after menarche for girls. Nonprescription acne treatment and skincare products containing lipids such as ceramides play an important role in monotherapy, adjunctive, and maintenance treatment; however, their role in pediatric acne is not well defined and requires more studies., Conclusion: Pediatric acne deserves more attention from healthcare providers treating children regarding differential diagnosis, treatment, and maintenance using nonprescription acne treatment and skincare. J Drugs Dermatol. 2022;21(6):602-612. doi:10.36849/JDD.6872.

A valuable approach to chemical safety assessment is the use of read-across chemicals to provide safety data to support the assessment of structurally similar chemicals. An inventory of over 6000 discrete organic chemicals used as fragrance materials in consumer products has been clustered into chemical class-based groups for efficient search of read-across sources. We developed a robust, tiered system for chemical classification based on (1) organic functional group, (2) structural similarity and reactivity features of the hydrocarbon skeletons, (3) predicted or experimentally verified Phase I and Phase II metabolism, and (4) expert pruning to consider these variables in the context of specific toxicity end points. The systematic combination of these data yielded clusters, which may be visualized as a top-down hierarchical clustering tree. In this tree, chemical classes are formed at the highest level according to organic functional groups. Each subsequent subcluster stemming from classes in this hierarchy of the cluster is a chemical cluster defined by common organic functional groups and close similarity in the hydrocarbon skeleton. By examining the available experimental data for a toxicological endpoint within each cluster, users can better identify potential read-across chemicals to support safety assessments.

Before placing a new cosmetic ingredient on the market, manufacturers must establish its safety profile, in particular assessing the skin sensitization potential, which is a mandatory requirement for topical applications. Since the ban on animal testing in Europe, and its extension to many parts of the world, a battery of in vitro tests covering the key steps of the Adverse Outcome Pathway (AOP) for skin sensitization is recommended. To date, three in vitro methods are validated in the OECD guidelines (442C, 442D, 442E), and many others are under validation by OECD (2019) and ECVAM. However, there is still no official strategy. Some industrial manufacturers have proposed in vitro strategies with good predictivity, but their studies were mainly based on the testing of simple and "easy to test" substances. This work therefore focused on "difficult to test" ingredients with particular physicochemical properties (i.e. poorly water-soluble components) or with particular intrinsic properties placing them outside the applicability domains of most in vitro models (irritants or cytotoxic like surfactants, complex substances). Furthermore a particular focus was made on weak to moderate sensitizers. The objective was to develop a robust, quick and straightforward testing strategy enabling the evaluation of the skin sensitization potential of "difficult to test" ingredients. In this context, four in vitro test models were used: three validated methods and the Sens-Is® assay, currently in the work plan of the OECD, chosen for its ability to overcome solubility issues and to discriminate irritants from sensitizers. 25 ingredients with particular physicochemical properties were evaluated, chosen among positive or negative sensitizers according to in vivo data (M&K and/or LLNA). Such ingredients, including cleansers, solubilizers, emulsifiers, emollients, active ingredients, preservatives, and antioxidants are indeed essential constituents of cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical formulations. The results analysis on each in vitro test demonstrated that the DPRA model was the less predictive on the chosen ingredients, resulting especially in many false negative responses compared to animal studies, or being unsuited to the mode of action of the selected ingredients. On the contrary, the Sens-Is® assay revealed a real capability to discriminate sensitizers from non-sensitizers. The two other models, KeratinoSens TM and h-CLAT, showed a lower ability to classify the materials correctly than in previously published studies, linked to the particular physicochemical and intrinsic properties of the chosen ingredients and the applicability domains of these in vitro tests. The KeratinoSens TM model tended to overestimate the sensitization potential of the tested ingredients, whereas the h-CLAT model tended to underestimate the sensitizers. Based on these results a new sequential testing strategy was set up combining 1 to 3 models to cover the main key events of the skin sensitization AOP. Sens-Is® model, assessing the first two AOP Key Events with consideration of the ingredient dermal penetration, is chosen as a starting point. The approach is completed, depending on the first response, by the h-CLAT model, assessing Key Event 3, and then potentially KeratinoSens TM assessing Key Event 2, but with a more direct application mode. This new testing strategy increases the accuracy to 88% on the selected ingredients and minimizes the risk of a false negative conclusion, which is crucial from the perspective of the ingredients' users and cosmetic consumers., Competing Interests: Declaration of Competing Interest Hervé Groux and Françoise Cottrez have filled a patent for the SENS-IS assay, all the other authors declare no conflict of interest., (Copyright © 2020 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.)

Background: Use of skin personal care products on a regular basis is nearly ubiquitous, but their effects on molecular and microbial diversity of the skin are unknown. We evaluated the impact of four beauty products (a facial lotion, a moisturizer, a foot powder, and a deodorant) on 11 volunteers over 9 weeks., Results: Mass spectrometry and 16S rRNA inventories of the skin revealed decreases in chemical as well as in bacterial and archaeal diversity on halting deodorant use. Specific compounds from beauty products used before the study remain detectable with half-lives of 0.5-1.9 weeks. The deodorant and foot powder increased molecular, bacterial, and archaeal diversity, while arm and face lotions had little effect on bacterial and archaeal but increased chemical diversity. Personal care product effects last for weeks and produce highly individualized responses, including alterations in steroid and pheromone levels and in bacterial and archaeal ecosystem structure and dynamics., Conclusions: These findings may lead to next-generation precision beauty products and therapies for skin disorders.

Skin cancer (melanoma and non-melanoma) is the most commonly diagnosed cancer in the United States of America, and non-melanoma skin cancer is the most common cause of Australian hospitalisations with cancer as the principle diagnosis, having a huge cost to the country's health care system. Primary and secondary skin cancer prevention is globally inadequate, with only 3 in 10 American adults using sun protection routinely. Evidence suggests that regular sunscreen use in Australians prevents both melanoma and non-melanoma skin cancers, and American research has found that daily sunscreen use reduced the incidence of melanoma - the most skin cancer deaths - by half. Despite this, in many countries and regions around the world, a major ongoing divergence remains on the classification of sunscreen as either a cosmetic product or a form of medical therapy, which in turn affects the consumers' attitudes towards the use of sunscreen. This is also affected by the increasing use of the internet, which has made the purchasing of products internationally convenient and easy for consumers worldwide, including sunscreen products, which are frequently marketed online. There is variation between each country or region and their regulations of sunscreen affect the consequent labelling claims of sunscreen products. This affects the unsuspecting consumer's choices in purchasing sun protection, which may be misinformed. Australia, Canada, and the US are the only countries to classify sunscreen as a form of medical therapy. This paper explores the current classification of sunscreen products in countries and regions around the world and discusses the impact of these discrepancies and similarities on the attitudes of consumers towards sunscreen use. Finally, we make suggestions on changes that can be made to encourage sunscreen use and safe sunscreen purchasing. J Drugs Dermatol. 2018;17(8):899-904.

The sales potential of cosmetic products is greatly determined by skin feel and skin sensory performance. To please the target audience, it is important to gather information about consumers' perception of products' sensory characteristics. In this study, six different emulsions were formulated. Samples represented three different types of emulsions, including steric-stabilized oil-in-water (O/W), liquid crystal-stabilized O/W, and water-in-oil emulsions, providing different skin feel and aesthetics. Emulsions within the same group differed in the emollients, providing similar sensory attributes. The aim was to have 50 consumers evaluate the emulsions' sensory characteristics. Using a check-all-that-apply (CATA) survey, consumers provided information about their perception of appearance, rub-out, pick-up, and afterfeel. Consumers effectively discriminated between the emulsions. Statistical analysis showed significant differences for 15 sensory attributes in the before, during, and after phases. Our findings suggest that emulsifiers, and not emollients, have the dominant role in determining the aesthetics of a skin care emulsion, similar to previous findings. The fact that untrained consumers provided similar results as trained panelists suggests the validity of the CATA survey and its reliability as a screening tool in the product development process. CATA questions may serve as a viable complimentary to descriptive sensory analysis performed by trained panelists.

Although the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) has adopted several in vitro methods with reasonable predictive capacity, alternative methods for identifying skin sensitizers and non-sensitizers with reliability and simplicity are still required for more efficient and economic prediction. The present study was to design an in vitro system with the use of a β-galactosidase-expressing E. coli culture for simpler but sufficiently accurate classification of skin sensitizers and non-sensitizers. A LacZ gene-containing E. coli strain that is capable of producing β-galactosidase enzyme was induced by isopropyl β-D-1-thiogalactopyranoside with concomitant treatment with test chemicals. After 6-hr incubation, cells were lysed and β-galactosidase enzyme activity was monitored colorimetrically by using O-nitrophenyl-D-galactopyranoside as a substrate. Following optimization of several experimental conditions, 22 skin sensitizers and 11 non-sensitizers were examined to assess predictive capacity of this method. The results indicated that predictivity was as follows: 90.9% sensitivity, 81.8% specificity, and 87.9% accuracy, when 17.3% of control activity was used as the cut-off value to separate sensitizers from non-sensitizers. Data suggested that the current bacterial system expressing β-galactosidase may serve as a useful alternative test for classifying skin sensitizers and non-sensitizers, without the utilization of animals or mammalian cell cultures.

A thorough understanding of which of the effects assessed in the in vivo Draize eye test are responsible for driving UN GHS/EU CLP classification is critical for an adequate selection of chemicals to be used in the development and/or evaluation of alternative methods/strategies and for properly assessing their predictive capacity and limitations. For this reason, Cosmetics Europe has compiled a database of Draize data (Draize eye test Reference Database, DRD) from external lists that were created to support past validation activities. This database contains 681 independent in vivo studies on 634 individual chemicals representing a wide range of chemical classes. A description of all the ocular effects observed in vivo, i.e. degree of severity and persistence of corneal opacity (CO), iritis, and/or conjunctiva effects, was added for each individual study in the database, and the studies were categorised according to their UN GHS/EU CLP classification and the main effect driving the classification. An evaluation of the various in vivo drivers of classification compiled in the database was performed to establish which of these are most important from a regulatory point of view. These analyses established that the most important drivers for Cat 1 Classification are (1) CO mean ≥ 3 (days 1-3) (severity) and (2) CO persistence on day 21 in the absence of severity, and those for Cat 2 classification are (3) CO mean ≥ 1 and (4) conjunctival redness mean ≥ 2. Moreover, it is shown that all classifiable effects (including persistence and CO = 4) should be present in ≥60 % of the animals to drive a classification. As a consequence, our analyses suggest the need for a critical revision of the UN GHS/EU CLP decision criteria for the Cat 1 classification of chemicals. Finally, a number of key criteria are identified that should be taken into consideration when selecting reference chemicals for the development, evaluation and/or validation of alternative methods and/or strategies for serious eye damage/eye irritation testing. Most important, the DRD is an invaluable tool for any future activity involving the selection of reference chemicals., Competing Interests: The authors declare that they have no conflict of interest.

Micrometer-sized polymer particles encapsulated ascorbic acid (vitamin C; VC) were successfully prepared by the three types of the self-assembling method, those are, phase separation and self-assembly of added polymer at the oil-water interface in emulsion, microsuspension polymerization utilizing the self-assembling of phase separated polymer (SaPSeP) method, and their hybrid method. In the stability study at 50°C for 2 months, the three kinds of capsule particles exhibited effective protection of VC from the interaction with other components in cosmetic consisting of water-in-oil (W/O) emulsion. The encapsulated VC was easily released from the capsule particles by an excess of water. These encapsulation methods will be useful for the stabilization of water-soluble substances in cosmetic consisting of W/O emulsion.

The randomly selected set of 558 chemicals from Cosmetic inventory was studied with internet accessible program package CAESAR. Four toxic endpoints were considered: mutagenicity, carcinogenicity, developmental toxicity and skin sensitization. The CAESAR program provides beside the predictions comprehensive information on applicability domain and the similarity between the considered compound and the compounds from model's training set. This information was used to implement for clustering and classification of chemicals. As the technique the Self Organizing Maps was applied. This technique also enables us to define to each cluster the cluster indicator, i.e., the characteristic compound, which is considered as a representative for a cluster., (Copyright © 2014 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.)

Potential allergenic fragrances are part of the Cosmetic Regulation with labelling and concentration restrictions. This means that they have to be declared on the ingredients list, when their concentration exceeds the labelling limit of 10 ppm or 100 ppm for leave-on or rinse-off cosmetics, respectively. Labelling is important regarding consumer safety. In this way, sensitised people towards fragrances might select their products based on the ingredients list to prevent elicitation of an allergic reaction. It is therefore important to quantify potential allergenic ingredients in cosmetic products. An easy to perform liquid extraction was developed, combined with a new headspace GC-MS method. The latter was capable of analysing 24 volatile allergenic fragrances in complex cosmetic formulations, such as hydrophilic (O/W) and lipophilic (W/O) creams, lotions and gels. This method was successfully validated using the total error approach. The trueness deviations for all components were smaller than 8%, and the expectation tolerance limits did not exceed the acceptance limits of ± 20% at the labelling limit. The current methodology was used to analyse 18 cosmetic samples that were already identified as being illegal on the EU market for containing forbidden skin whitening substances. Our results showed that these cosmetic products also contained undeclared fragrances above the limit value for labelling, which imposes an additional health risk for the consumer., (Copyright © 2014 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

Objective: The objective of this study was to develop an initial lexicon for sensory properties of nail polish and to validate this lexicon using a descriptive analysis study of selected samples., Methods: Seventeen commercial products from four categories (regular, flake-containing, water-based and gel) were used in this study. Descriptive sensory analysis was conducted in this study to characterize and evaluate application and removal properties of these nail polishes. Data was then processed by ANOVA, Principal Component Analysis (PCA) and Pearson's Correlation Coefficient analysis to explore the differences among samples and attributes., Results: A lexicon of 21 sensory attributes was developed to describe the application of nail polish. It included three initial texture attributes, thirteen initial appearance attributes and five aroma attributes. A lexicon of five attributes in five stages was developed to describe the removal of nail polish. The results from ANOVA and PCA showed that attributes in the lexicon separated the different product categories., Conclusion: The results of this study indicated that descriptive sensory analysis can be used to evaluate nail polish. The results of this study present scientists who are working on nail polish an additional tool to describe application and removal properties of nail polish., (© 2014 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.)

Cosmetics are normally composed of various ingredients. Some cosmetic ingredients can act as chemical haptens reacting toward proteins or peptides of human skin and they can provoke an immunologic reaction, called as skin sensitization. This haptenation process is very important step of inducing skin sensitization and evaluating the sensitizing potentials of cosmetic ingredients is very important for consumer safety. Therefore, animal alternative methods focusing on monitoring haptenation potential are undergoing vigorous research. To examine the further usefulness of spectrophotometric methods to monitor reactivity of chemicals toward peptides for cosmetic ingredients. Forty chemicals (25 sensitizers and 15 non-sensitizers) were reacted with 2 synthetic peptides, e.g., the cysteine peptides (Ac-RFAACAA-COOH) with free thiol group and the lysine peptides (Ac-RFAAKAA-COOH) with free amine group. Unreacted peptides can be detected after incubating with 5,5'-dithiobis-2-nitrobenzoic acid or fluorescamine™ as detection reagents for free thiol and amine group, respectively. Chemicals were categorized as sensitizers when they induced more than 10% depletion of cysteine peptides or more than 30% depletion of lysine peptides. The sensitivity, specificity, and accuracy were 80.0%, 86.7% and 82.5%, respectively. These results demonstrate that spectrophotometric methods can be an easy, fast, and high-throughput screening tools predicting the skin sensitization potential of chemical including cosmetic ingredient., (Copyright © 2013 Elsevier Ireland Ltd. All rights reserved.)

A variety of substances contained in cosmetic products can lead to allergic reactions for certain individuals. The names of such substances are predominantly printed onto a product in small-sized expert language. For this reason, consumers often have difficulties to assess whether some of the ingredients might be harmful for them. Consequently, patients are exposed to a risk of buying a cosmetic product that might cause a minor to severe allergic reaction. A Google Glass-based software solution for consumers suffering from skin allergies is presented. It enables users to check cosmetic products in a mobile context and empowers patients to make informed buying decisions. In particular, the solution could help to avoid or reduce the risk for allergic reactions.

The term cosmetic has a broad definition and includes personal care products, hair care products, nail care products, and sunscreens. Modern cosmetics are safe for most users, and adverse reactions are very rare because the manufacturers invest heavily in safety, quality control, and product testing before releasing the product to the market. Despite these efforts, adverse reactions occur. Skin care products are major contributors to cosmetic allergic contact dermatitis (ACD), followed by hair care and nail care products. The most common allergens are fragrances and preservatives. The diagnosis of cosmetic allergy is established by reviewing the patient's clinical history and physical examination findings and confirmed with skin patch testing. Patch testing is the standard method for detecting allergens responsible for eliciting ACD. The purpose of this article was to review the prevalence, legislative laws, and role of patch testing in ACD.

Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a common chronic inflammatory skin disease with epidermal barrier defects which leads to dry skin that is easily disturbed by external exacerbating factors. It is now well established that moisturizers play an important role in preventing skin inflammation in AD, including reducing the amount of topical corticosteroid use. Thus, the use of moisturizers is currently recognized as one of standard treatment for AD. This review summarizes the role and classification of moisturizers. We also review some ingredients that are commonly added in moisturizers which are claimed to have an anti-inflammatory effects in AD.

Cosmetics and certain commodities are applied or used by consumers directly on the skin. Creams may remain on the skin for longer periods, hair is dyed multiple times per year, nickel ions can be released from studs and piercings in areas of skin damage or migrate from toy materials into the skin of children. Accordingly, using or handling such products always entails a risk for developing a contact allergy. Moreover, daily usage and repeated contacts to certain cosmetics and commodities might lead to repeated elicitation of contact eczema in people already sensitized against allergenic ingredients. Unfortunately, contact allergy is not curable. For the assessment of the allergenic potential of chemicals, only testing based on animal experiments was available in the past. In 2003, the 7(th) amendment of the Cosmetics Directive 76/768/EWG laid down a ban on animal testing of cosmetic ingredients and from 2013 a general marketing ban of such products as well. Therefore, the development and validation of non-animal methods for assessing the toxicological endpoint sensitization/allergenic potency of chemicals is a major task for the years ahead and remains equally a challenge for industry and regulatory agencies.

The skin of youngest children, especially newborn and infant skin, has a different reactivity to exogenous factors in comparison to skin of older children and adults. The anatomical and functional distinctions of infant skin, and the risk of use of inappropriate cosmetic ingredients and other xenobiotics are discussed, as well as the most common adverse eff ects of cosmetics use in children. The paper moreover, provides an extensive overview of the ingredients used in cosmetics for children.

Personal care product manufacturers have used a broad spectrum of alternative ocular irritation assays during the past two decades because these tests do not require the use of live animals, they provide reliable predictive data, and they are relatively inexpensive to conduct. To complement these assays, the ex vivo Porcine Corneal Opacity Reversibility Assay (PorCORA) was recently developed using a corneal culture model to predict reversibility of ocular irritants. Three commercially available consumer products (a shampoo, a hair color glaze, and a hair colorant system containing 12% hydrogen peroxide) were each tested in two PorCORA study replicates in order to assess potential ocular damage reversibility for surfactant-, propylene carbonate-, and peroxide-based formulations, respectively. Under the exaggerated, in vitro study conditions, the surfactant-based shampoo may cause irreversible porcine corneal damage (histological changes in the epithelial squamous cell and/or basal cell layers), whereas the hair color glaze and 12% hydrogen peroxide product caused fully reversible ocular irritation (microscopic changes only in the superficial squamous cell layer). The hair color glaze and peroxide product results correlate with established in vivo data for similar compounds, but the shampoo results contradicted previous BCOP results (expected to be only a mild irritant). Therefore, although the PorCORA protocol shows promise in predicting the extent and reversibility of potential ocular damage caused by accidental consumer eye exposure to personal care products, the contradictory results for the surfactant-based shampoo indicate that more extensive validation testing of the PorCORA is necessary to definitively establish the protocol's reliability as a Draize test replacement., (Copyright © 2010 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.)

This paper continues our review of scientifically evaluated plant extracts in dermatology. After plants effective against dermatophytes, botanicals with anti-edema effects in chronic venous insufficiency are discussed. There is good evidence from randomized clinical studies that plant extracts from grape vine leaves (Vitis vinifera), horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum), sea pine (Pinus maritima) and butcher's broom (Ruscus aculeatus) can reduce edema in chronic venous insufficiency. Plant extracts from witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana), green tea (Camellia sinensis), the fern Polypodium leucotomos and others contain antioxidant polyphenolic compounds that may protect the skin from sunburn and photoaging when administered topically or systemically. Extracts from the garden spurge (Euphorbia peplus) and from birch bark (Betula alba) have been shown to be effective in the treatment of actinic keratoses in phase II studies. Some plant extracts have also been investigated in the treatment of vitiligo, various forms of hair loss and pigmentation disorders, and in aesthetic dermatology., (© The Authors • Journal compilation © Blackwell Verlag GmbH, Berlin.)

The main properties of cosmeceuticals, a new category of intensive care cosmetic products intermediate between traditional cosmetics and medicines are considered. Special care is needed when carrying out studies for the validation of the safety and efficiency claims of these products. The place of cosmeceuticals among modern restorative and aesthetic medicine technologies are discussed along with the main causes behind their appearance on the market including rapid accumulation of knowledge about stratum corneum and aspiration of senior citizens for better looks and quality of life.

Introduction: The United Nations Globally Harmonized System of Classification and Labelling of Chemicals (UN-GHS) is developed to harmonize the criteria for hazard communication worldwide. The European Regulation on classification, labeling, and packaging of substances and mixtures [CLP Regulation (European Commission, EC) No 1272/2008] will align the existing European Union (EU) legislation to the UN-GHS. This CLP Regulation entered into force on January 20, 2009, and will, after a transitional period, replace the current rules on classification, labeling, and packaging for supply and use in Europe. Both old and new classifications will exist simultaneously until 2010 for substances and until 2015 for mixtures., Hazard Classification: The new hazard classification will introduce new health hazard classes and categories, with associated new hazard pictograms, signal words, Hazard (H)-statements, and Precautionary (P)-statements as labeling elements. Furthermore, the CLP Regulation will affect the notification of product information on hazardous products to poisons information centers (PICs)., Product Notification Procedures: At this moment product notification widely varies in procedures and requirements across EU Member States. Article 45 of the CLP Regulation contains a provision stating that the EC will (by January 20, 2012) review the possibility of harmonizing product notification. The European Association of Poisons Centres and Clinical Toxicologists (EAPCCT) is recognized as an important stakeholder. For cosmetic products, the new Cosmetics Regulation will directly implement a new procedure for electronic cosmetic product notification in all EU Member States., Conclusion: Both the CLP Regulation and the Cosmetics Regulation will develop their own product notification procedure within different time frames. Harmonization of notification procedures for both product groups, especially a common electronic format, would be most effective from a cost-benefit viewpoint and would be welcomed by PICs.

Cosmeceuticals are topically applied products that are more than merely cosmetic, yet are not true drugs that have undergone rigorous placebo controlled studies for safety and efficacy. There are many review articles that outline the theoretical biologic and clinical actions of these cosmeceuticals and their various ingredients. This article reviews how to incorporate various cosmeceuticals into the treatment regime of patients, depending on the diagnosis and therapies chosen. The practical application of when, why, and on whom to use different products will enable dermatologists to improve the methodology of product selection and, ultimately, improve patient's clinical results.

In this review, recent methods developed for the determination of degradation intermediates of personal care products in environmental matrixes focusing on the extraction and determination steps are discussed. The five classes of personal care products evaluated are stimulants, fragrances, sunscreens, antimicrobials, and insect repellents. Methods are critically reviewed in terms of the analytical steps involved in the analysis, sample pretreatment, separation, and detection as well as the different confirmation strategies employed. Preconcentration from aqueous matrixes was performed by solid-phase extraction, liquid-liquid extraction, or solid-phase microextraction, allowing the simultaneous extraction of parent compounds and their degradation intermediates. Following the extraction and cleanup steps, the identification and quantification of degradation intermediates of personal care products at environmental levels (i.e., parts per trillion to parts per billion range) is usually performed by using mass spectrometry techniques such as single quadrupole mass spectrometry and more recently by time-of-flight mass spectrometry or tandem mass spectrometry. The main scope of this review is to critically evaluate the current state of the art of the analytical techniques used and to identify the research needs in the determination of degradation intermediates of personal care products in environmental matrixes.

A tier evaluation system was assessed as an alternative method for the identification of cosmetic ingredients which are not ocular irritants. The system employed monolayer cultures of SIRC cells, an established cell line originally derived from the rabbit cornea, and a three-dimensional living dermal model (LDM), MATREXtrade mark, which consists of human dermal fibroblasts in a contracted collagen lattice. Effects on the cell monolayer cultures were determined by using SIRC cell-Crystal Violet staining (SIRC-CVS), and effects on the LDM were assessed by using the 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazol-2-yl)-2,5-diphenyltetrazolium bromide (MTT) assay. A non-irritating ingredient was defined as a compound having a maximal average total score (MAS) of 5 or less in the Draize eye test, as this is the criterion used in the Japanese draft guidance for evaluating cosmetic ingredients. Among 34 test substances with known characteristics, 30 were classified accurately. Based on these encouraging results, the possibility of simplifying the MTT assay on the LDM for more-practical use, by selecting only three concentration levels to discriminate non-irritants from irritants, was assessed. The simplified method, involving a three-dose set (the three-dose method), was confirmed as being suitable for the identification of non-irritating ingredients, with triethanolamine used as a negative reference standard. Finally, the LDM was used to evaluate compounds at similar concentrations to those tested in vivo, aiming to predict the concentration at which an ingredient can be formulated into products without causing eye irritation. On the basis of previous validation data and our additional results, it was found that test samples that resulted in a cell viability of 50% or more in this model, could be classified as non-irritating ingredients. In all, these results indicate that the tier evaluation system may be suitable for the evaluation of ingredients intended to be used in cosmetics and medicated cosmetics in Japan., (2008 FRAME.)

The definition, history, classification and advantages of traditional Chinese medicine cosmetics (TCMC) were summarized in this article. The domestic and foreign current situations of research and development of TCMC were particularly introduced. The application and authorization of TCMC in China were also briefly mentioned. Finally, the developmental prospects of TCMC in China were discussed in two aspects of the strategy of the R&D and the problems facing when it was marketed.

Sunscreen index is the primary indicator of the protection effect of sunscreen cosmetics. A handheld spectrometer was used to study the relationship between sunscreen index and reflectance spectra. Three kinds of Dingjiayi brand sunscreen cosmetics, which is SPF15, SPF20 and SPF30, were chosen as experimental material. The sunscreen cosmetics were divided into 75 samples, and 60 of them were used as calibrated samples, while the other 15 samples were used as prediction samples. The reflectance spectra data were collected by the spectrometer. The data from the wavelength range between 400 and 960 nm were processed by principal component analysis method, and the results showed that the cumulate reliabilities of PC1 and PC2 (the first two principal components) reached 91%. Then partial least square analysis method was applied to build prediction models, and the remaining 15 prediction samples were disposed by this model. The results show that the prediction correlation coefficient is 0.967 7, and the prediction precision is good. So the spectral analysis method proposed in the present paper has good performance in classification and discrimination of sunscreen cosmetics, and is a new approach to test the SPF of cosmetics.

Sens-it-iv is an integrated project, funded by European Commission Framework Programme 6, the overall objective of which is to develop in vitro tests and test strategies to be used by the chemical, cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries to assess the risk for potential contact and respiratory sensitisers. Such tests, once formally validated and accepted, will permit the evaluation of the sensitising potential of existing and new chemical entities and the products of the European industries for classification and labelling, as required by the new EU REACH legislation on chemicals, or for the purpose of risk assessment as required by the 7th Amendment to the EU Cosmetics Directive. Sens-it-iv involves 28 partners, representing industries, universities and regulatory bodies, including various institutes in the EU Member States and different competencies, all with the common aim of achieving a final deliverable - increasing the safety of consumer products, whilst reducing animal experimentation. This paper provides an overview of the structure of the project and a detailed description of the organisation of its management.

The aim of this study was to evaluate the interest of a new three-dimensional epithelial model cultivated from human corneal cells to replace animal testing in the assessment of eye tolerance. To this end, 65 formulated cosmetic products and 36 chemicals were tested by means of this in vitro model using a simplified toxicokinetic approach. The chemicals were selected from the ECETOC data bank and the EC/HO International validation study list. Very satisfactory results were obtained in terms of concordance with the Draize test data for the formulated cosmetic products. Moreover, the response of the corneal model appeared predictive of human ocular response clinically observed by ophthalmologists. The in vitro scores for the chemicals tested strongly correlated with their respective scores in vivo. For all the compounds tested, the response of the corneal model to irritants was similar regardless of their chemical structure, suggesting a good robustness of the prediction model proposed. We concluded that this new three-dimensional epithelial model, developed from human corneal cells, could be promising for the prediction of eye irritation induced by chemicals and complex formulated products, and that these two types of materials should be tested using a similar protocol. A simple shortening of the exposure period was required for the chemicals assumed to be more aggressively irritant to the epithelial tissues than the cosmetic formulae.

Introduction: Red blood cell assay (RBC) is used to estimate potential irritation of tensioactive agents and detergents. Cell membrane lysis and cell protein denaturation are measured photometrically. This study was aimed to determine if rat blood cells can be used to predict eye potential irritation in the same way of calves blood cells in RBC assay., Methods: We evaluated 20 cosmetic formulations using rat and calves blood according to INVITOX protocol No 37. Data of media hemolysis concentration, denaturation index and the ratio of both parameters were compared with in vivo data of eye irritancy., Results: There was a significant difference (p<0.01) between H50 value when evaluated the standard SDS with red blood cell method in rat and calves blood. According to the exact probability of Fisher taking as approach the acceptance or rejection of the substance there are no significant differences between in vitro assay with calves blood and in vivo results. Not happening the same way for the RBC assay with rat blood where significant differences were obtained (p<0.01) among the classification of in vitro and in vivo test., Discussion: The RBC assay using calves blood showed better results. Several test substances were false negatives with rat blood. This high false negative rate would be correctly identified by the animal test but it may also lead to increased animal consumption. For that RBC assay with calf blood cells is preferable to the employment of rat blood as screening method with a reduction and refinement strategy.

Allergic contact dermatitis following the use of hair dyes is well known. Many chemicals are used in hair dyes and it is unlikely that all cases of hair dye allergy can be diagnosed by means of patch testing with p-phenylenediamine (PPD). The objectives of this study are to identify all hair dye substances registered in Europe and to provide their tonnage data. The sensitization potential of each substance was then estimated by using a quantitative structure-activity relationship (QSAR) model and the substances were ranked according to their predicted potency. A cluster analysis was performed in order to help select a number of chemically diverse hair dye substances that could be used in subsequent clinical work. Various information sources, including the Inventory of Cosmetics Ingredients, new regulations on cosmetics, data on total use and ChemId (the Chemical Search Input website provided by the National Library of Medicine), were used in order to identify the names and structures of the hair dyes. A QSAR model, developed with the help of experimental local lymph node assay data and topological sub-structural molecular descriptors (TOPS-MODE), was used in order to predict the likely sensitization potential. Predictions for sensitization potential were made for the 229 substances that could be identified by means of a chemical structure, the majority of these hair dyes (75%) being predicted to be strong/moderate sensitizers. Only 22% were predicted to be weak sensitizers and 3% were predicted to be extremely weak or non-sensitizing. Eight of the most widely used hair dye substances were predicted to be strong/moderate sensitizers, including PPD - which is the most commonly used hair dye allergy marker in patch testing. A cluster analysis by using TOPS-MODE descriptors as inputs helped us group the hair dye substances according to their chemical similarity. This would facilitate the selection of potential substances for clinical patch testing. A patch-test series with potent, frequently used, substances representing various chemical clusters is suggested. This may prove useful in diagnosing PPD-negative patients with symptoms of hair dye allergy and would provide some clinical validation of the QSAR predictions.

We have introduced the 3T3 NRU cytotoxicity test for methodological, economical and ethical reasons as a regular part of tier pre-marketing testing to assess local tolerance of raw materials for cosmetics, household chemicals and final cosmetic products. Using the 3T3 cell line according to the standard INVITTOX protocol No.64 (NRU Assay) the borderline concentration, relevant to the highest tolerated dose, is determined for each material. The toxic effect is reached at different concentration levels specific for individual cosmetics categories, depending on their chemical characteristics. Typical ranges of cytotoxicity for specific categories of cosmetics were established after testing of hundreds of materials. The range lies between 1 microg/ml (anti-dandruff shampoos), up to 2000 microg/ml (toothpastes and mouthwashes). The 3T3 NRU cytotoxicity test is a sensitive tool able to identify more aggressive products, that are also more likely to evoke irritation in human skin. It was even possible to detect protective effects of one natural herbal ingredient. The comparative study of cytotoxicity test results and human patch test results from a group of essential oils is presented. Cytotoxicity tests represent a highly ethical approach for estimation of irritancy. On the basis of in vitro test results suggesting low risk we can proceed to confirmatory tests in human volunteers.

This report reviews the safety of Aluminum, Calcium, Lithium Magnesium, Lithium Magnesium Sodium, Magnesium Aluminum, Magnesium, Sodium Magnesium, and Zirconium Silicates, Magnesium Trisilicate, Attapulgite, Bentonite, Fuller's Earth, Hectorite, Kaolin, Montmorillonite, Pyrophyllite, and Zeolite as used in cosmetic formulations. The common aspect of all these claylike ingredients is that they contain silicon, oxygen, and one or more metals. Many silicates occur naturally and are mined; yet others are produced synthetically. Typical cosmetic uses of silicates include abrasive, opacifying agent, viscosity-increasing agent, anticaking agent, emulsion stabilizer, binder, and suspending agent. Clay silicates (silicates containing water in their structure) primarily function as adsorbents, opacifiers, and viscosity-increasing agents. Pyrophyllite is also used as a colorant. The International Agency for Research on Cancer has ruled Attapulgite fibers >5 microm as possibly carcinogenic to humans, but fibers <5 microm were not classified as to their carcinogenicity to humans. Likewise, Clinoptilolite, Phillipsite, Mordenite, Nonfibrous Japanese Zeolite, and synthetic Zeolites were not classified as to their carcinogenicity to humans. These ingredients are not significantly toxic in oral acute or short-term oral or parenteral toxicity studies in animals. Inhalation toxicity, however, is readily demonstrated in animals. Particle size, fibrogenicity, concentration, and mineral composition had the greatest effect on toxicity. Larger particle size and longer and wider fibers cause more adverse effects. Magnesium Aluminum Silicate was a weak primary skin irritant in rabbits and had no cumulative skin irritation in guinea pigs. No gross effects were reported in any of these studies. Sodium Magnesium Silicate had no primary skin irritation in rabbits and had no cumulative skin irritation in guinea pigs. Hectorite was nonirritating to the skin of rabbits in a Draize primary skin irritation study. Magnesium Aluminum Silicate and Sodium Magnesium Silicate caused minimal eye irritation in a Draize eye irritation test. Bentonite caused severe iritis after injection into the anterior chamber of the eyes of rabbits and when injected intralamellarly, widespread corneal infiltrates and retrocorneal membranes were recorded. In a primary eye irritation study in rabbits, Hectorite was moderately irritating without washing and practically nonirritating to the eye with a washout. Rats tolerated a single dose of Zeolite A without any adverse reaction in the eye. Calcium Silicate had no discernible effect on nidation or on maternal or fetal survival in rabbits. Magnesium Aluminum Silicate had neither a teratogenic nor adverse effects on the mouse fetus. Female rats receiving a 20% Kaolin diet exhibited maternal anemia but no significant reduction in birth weight of the pups was recorded. Type A Zeolite produced no adverse effects on the dam, embryo, or fetus in either rats or rabbits at any dose level. Clinoptilolite had no effect on female rat reproductive performance. These ingredients were not genotoxic in the Ames bacterial test system. In primary hepatocyte cultures, the addition of Attapulgite had no significant unscheduled DNA synthesis. Attapulgite did cause significant increases in unscheduled DNA synthesis in rat pleural mesothelial cells, but no significant increase in sister chromosome exchanges were seen. Zeolite particles (<10 microm) produced statistically significant increase in the percentage of aberrant metaphases in human peripheral blood lymphocytes and cells collected by peritoneal lavage from exposed mice. Topical application of Magnesium Aluminum Silicate to human skin daily for 1 week produced no adverse effects. Occupational exposure to mineral dusts has been studied extensively. Fibrosis and pneumoconiosis have been documented in workers involved in the mining and processing of Aluminum Silicate, Calcium Silicate, Zirconium Silicate, Fuller's Earth, Kaolin, Montmorillonite, Pyrophyllite, and Zeolite. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel concluded that the extensive pulmonary damage in humans was the result of direct occupational inhalation of the dusts and noted that lesions seen in animals were affected by particle size, fiber length, and concentration. The Panel considers that most of the formulations are not respirable and of the preparations that are respirable, the concentration of the ingredient is very low. Even so, the Panel considered that any spray containing these solids should be formulated to minimize their inhalation. With this admonition to the cosmetics industry, the CIR Expert Panel concluded that these ingredients are safe as currently used in cosmetic formulations. The Panel did note that the cosmetic ingredient, Talc, is a hydrated magnesium silicate. Because it has a unique crystalline structure that differs from ingredients addressed in this safety assessment, Talc is not included in this report.

A short overview is given of the current situation regarding the draft seventh amendment to the EU cosmetics directive, Directive 76/768/EEC. Future perspectives are discussed.

COLIPA (the European Federation of the Cosmetics Industry) represents 24 international companies and 2000 small and medium-sized enterprises. Together with ECVAM, COLIPA has been involved in the development and validation of alternative methods since the beginning of the validation efforts. The work of the Steering Committee on Alternatives to Animal Testing (SCAAT) is based on collaboration between companies, but also with academia, trade associations, the Scientific Committee on Cosmetics and Non-Food Products (SCCNFP), European Commission Directorates General, and ECVAM. Some success has been achieved, but some validation efforts have failed. One lesson is that the search for alternatives requires a lot of humility.