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Natural compounds are widely incorporated into cosmetic products for many purposes. Diterpenes often function as fragrances, enhancing the sensory experience of these formulations. However, current trends in cosmetic science aim to develop multifunctional products, where compounds traditionally used for texture or fragrance also possess biological activities that contribute to the product's efficacy. In this context, this study focuses on synthesizing derivatives of phytol-a compound already presents in cosmetic formulations-to enhance its anti-aging properties. The derivatives were synthesized through esterification with substituted benzoic and cinnamic acids, known for their antioxidant and enzyme inhibition properties. Reaction yields ranged from 91.0% to 5.2%, depending on the substituents in acid derivatives. The structures of the synthesized compounds were confirmed through NMR and MS techniques. Both the natural and newly synthesized derivatives were evaluated for their cosmeceutical potential using antioxidant assays and inhibition assays for tyrosinase, elastase, collagenase, and hyaluronidase. This work presents the first report of the synthesis and cosmetic evaluation of several of these derivatives. Comparing with phytol ( 1 ), which presented an IC 50 of 77.47 µM, four of the derivatives presented improved tyrosinase inhibitory activity, with phytyl 4-methoxybenzoate being the most active (IC 50 = 27.9 µM), followed by phytyl benzoate with an IC 50 of 34.73 µM. Substitutions at other positions on the aromatic ring were less effective. Molecular docking studies confirmed that the modifications potentiated a stronger interaction between the synthesized compounds and tyrosinase.

In the last years, the landscape of anti-aging cosmetics has been marked by significant advances in cosmeceutical delivery systems. This study aimed to conduct a systematic review of these technological innovations, with a focus on anti-aging effects, from 2018 to 2023. The methodology included a thorough search on PubMed and through gray literature, applying rigorous exclusion criteria. The descriptors were selected based on the Medical Subject Headings (MeSH). A total of 265 articles were found. Exclusion criteria were applied, and 90 of them were selected for full reading. After reading the full 90 articles, 52 were excluded, leaving 38 articles for final evaluation composing this review. The key findings highlighted a clear prevalence of studies exploring nanotechnology, including nanoparticles, niosomes, and liposomes. Most of the formulations analyzed in this review emphasize antioxidant activities, which play a crucial role in preventing premature aging caused by free radicals. The reviewed studies revealed specific activities, such as the reduction in melanin synthesis, the inhibition of enzymes involved in the skin aging process, and the prevention of morphological changes typical of aging.

The rise of polymer materials in modern life has drawn attention to renewable, easily biodegradable, environmentally-friendly bio-based polymers. Notably, significant research has been dedicated to creating green antimicrobial functional materials for the biomedical field using natural polymer materials. Cellulose is a rich natural biomass organic polymer material. Given its favorable attributes like film-forming capability, biodegradability, and biocompatibility, it is extensively employed to tackle a wide range of challenges confronting humanity today. However, its inherent drawbacks, such as insolubility in water and most organic solvents, hygroscopic nature, difficulty in melting, and limited antimicrobial properties, continue to pose challenges for realizing the high-value applications of cellulose. Achieving multifunctionality and more efficient application of cellulose still poses major challenges. In this regard, the current development status of cellulose materials was reviewed, covering the classification, preparation methods, and application status of cellulose-based antimicrobial materials. The application value of cellulose-based antimicrobial materials in biomedicine, textiles, food packaging, cosmetics and wastewater treatment was summarised. Finally, insights were provided into the developing prospects of cellulose-based antimicrobial materials were provided., Competing Interests: Declaration of competing interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (Copyright © 2024 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.)

Phthalate esters are commonly included in the formulations of cosmetics and related products in order to retain fragrance, enhance flexibility (i.e., by acting as plasticizers), facilitate the dissolution and dispersion of other ingredients, and improve the overall texture and sensory experience of the products. This study aimed to assess the presence and concentrations of phthalates in cosmetics by analyzing a comprehensive set of samples collected over a period of five years (2016-2020). The concentrations of nine different phthalate esters (BBP, DEHP, DNOP, DPP, DBP, DIPP, DMEP, DMP and PIPP) in 1110 cosmetics samples from France and Spain were determined by gas chromatography-mass spectrometry. The samples were included in five categories: soaps and shampoos; hand and body creams; lip gloss and lipsticks; nail polish; and facial makeup and skincare products. Some of the samples (4.86%) contained at least one phthalate at concentrations above the threshold limit (1 µg mL -1 ). Variable concentrations of different phthalates were determined in the 54 positive samples identified. DEHP was the most frequently detected phthalate, followed by DBP. The findings revealed different profiles according to the different categories of cosmetics and the phthalates detected in each. The results were critically compared with those obtained in various previous studies.

Apples are consumed lavishly worldwide, while demand is increasing for the management of the huge apple-waste amounts that lead to significant disposal costs and ecological issues. Additionally, apples represent fruits with several bioactive constituents, which are key factors in a healthy, balanced diet. In the present study, an extensive review is presented regarding the bioactive compounds of an apple processing by-product, namely apple pomace, mentioning their significance as viable ingredients/substances in foods and cosmetics aiming at chronic disease prevention and health promotion. Apple pomace contains several constituents, such as polar lipids, phenolics, vitamins and dietary fibers, with potential antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-thrombotic, anti-aging and skin-protecting properties, and thus, they may contribute to minimizing the risk of various health conditions. Additionally, the mechanisms of action of such functional bioactives from apple pomace exert health benefits that will be examined, while the potential synergistic effects will also be investigated. Moreover, we will present the methods and techniques needed for the utilization of apple pomace in the appropriate form, such as powder, extracts, essential oil and so on, and their several applications in the food and cosmeceutical industry sectors, which summarize that apple pomace represents an ideal alternative to synthetic bioactive compounds.

Lepidium peruvianum -an edible herbaceous biennial plant distributed in the Andes-has been used for centuries as food and as a natural medicine in treating hormonal disorders, as an antidepressant, and as an anti-osteoporotic agent. The presented study aims to prove its beneficial cosmetic and chemopreventive properties by testing the antiradical, whitening, cytotoxic, and anticancer properties of differently colored phenotypes that were extracted using three solvents: methanol, water, and chloroform, with the help of the chemometric approach to provide evidence on the impact of single glucosinolanes (seven identified compounds in the HPLC-ESI-QTOF-MS/MS analysis) on the biological activity of the total extracts. The tested extracts exhibited moderate antiradical activity, with the methanolic extract from yellow and grey maca phenotypes scavenging 49.9 ± 8.96% and 48.8% ± 0.44% of DPPH radical solution at a concentration of 1 mg/mL, respectively. Grey maca was the most active tyrosinase inhibitor, with 72.86 ± 3.42% of the enzyme activity calculated for the water extract and 75.66 ± 6.21% for the chloroform extract. The studies in cells showed no cytotoxicity towards the human keratinocyte line HaCaT in all studied extracts and a marked inhibition of cell viability towards the G361 melanoma cell line, which the presence of pent-4-enylglucosinolate, glucotropaeolin, and glucoalyssin in the samples could have caused. Given all biological activity tests combined, the three mentioned compounds were shown to be the most significant positive contributors to the results obtained, and the grey maca water extract was found to be the best source of the former compound among the tested samples.

Background: Cleansing is an important hygiene activity, necessary to prevent bacterial, fungal, yeast, and viral infection. However, in the presence of skin disease, cleansing can take on a new challenge: removing the sebum, sweat, externally applied substances, environmental debris, and organisms from the face without damaging the skin barrier. Since cleansers cannot easily distinguish between sebum and the intercellular lipids required to maintain skin integrity, unique cleansing technologies are necessary to provide mild cleansing for the many manifestations of sensitive skin., Objective: This 4-week clinical study aimed to evaluate the appropriateness of a cosmetic facial foaming gel cleanser with a polymeric surfactant technology in a diverse sensitive skin population., Method: 85 subjects with sensitive skin due to eczema/atopic dermatitis, rosacea, acne, or cosmetic intolerance syndrome were evaluated via investigator grading, self-assessment questionnaire, noninvasive measurements, and digital photography., Results: The foaming gel cleanser was well tolerated showing no significant increases in investigator-graded irritation endpoints. Sensitive skin subjects saw considerable reduction (P<0.05) in stinging, itching, burning, tightness, and overall sensitivity at 2 and 4 weeks. Improvements in smoothness, softness, clarity, radiance, and overall skin appearance, were observed by both the investigator and patients (P<0.05) at 2 and 4 weeks., Conclusion: The polymeric surfactant technology-based foaming gel cleanser provided a rich, foaming lather that felt gentle and left skin feeling comfortable. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(10):889-893. doi:10.36849/JDD.8510.

Objectives: We aimed to describe the characteristics of traditional eye cosmetics and cultural powders, including the types, lead concentrations, origin, and regional variation in product names, and assess the differences in blood lead levels (BLLs) between product users and non-users., Methods: We analyzed 220 samples of traditional eye cosmetics and cultural powders collected in New York City between 2013 and 2022 during lead poisoning investigations and store surveys. We compared the BLLs of children who used these products with those of non-users., Results: Lead levels in traditional eye cosmetics surma and kohl were much higher than levels in kajal and other cultural powders. Although the terminologies surma, kohl, and kajal are often used interchangeably, findings suggest regional variations in the product names. The majority of the surma in this study were from Pakistan, kohl was from Morocco, and kajal was from India. The results also show that these products can contribute to elevated BLLs in children., Conclusions: Our study reveals that traditional eye cosmetics and cultural powders are used among children as young as newborns, and exposure to these products can significantly add to their lead body burden. The study findings also reveal that lead concentrations in these products can vary by product type and product names can vary by region. Public health officials must be cognizant of these unique variations and use culturally appropriate terminologies for these types of products because such distinctions can be critical when conducting risk assessments, risk communication, and risk reduction activities., Competing Interests: CONFLICT OF INTEREST DISCLOSURES: The authors have indicated they have no potential conflicts of interest relevant to this article to disclose., (Copyright © 2024 by the American Academy of Pediatrics.)

Spermidine is an essential biomarker related to antiaging. Although the detection of spermidine levels is in high demand in life science fields, easy-to-use analytical tools without sample purification have not yet been fully established. Herein, we propose an organic field-effect transistor-based chemical sensor for quantifying the spermidine concentration in commercial cosmetics. An extended-gate structure was employed for organic field-effect transistor (OFET)-based chemical sensing in aqueous media. A coordination-bond-based sensing system was introduced into the OFET device to visualize the spermidine detection information through changes in the transistor characteristics. The extended-gate-type OFET has shown quantitative responses to spermidine, which indicates sufficient detectability (i. e., the limit of detection for spermidine: 2.3 μM) considering actual concentrations in cosmetics. The applicability of the OFET-based chemical sensor for cosmetic analysis was validated by instrumental analysis using high-performance liquid chromatography. The estimated recovery rates for spermidine in cosmetic ingredient products (108-111 %) suggest the feasibility of cosmetic analysis based on the OFET-based chemical sensor., (© 2024 The Authors. ChemistryOpen published by Wiley-VCH GmbH.)

Objective: While modern industry advancements have expanded nail beautification options, scientific literature primarily focuses on nail biology and medicine, with limited attention on cosmetic treatments. This study aimed to investigate human nail denaturation properties, including gender impact, blending nails to enlarge the sample pool, nail sensitization through bleaching, and active effectiveness testing. The objective was to understand the DSC and bending fatigue relationship, and define the consumer relevance of the DSC test., Methods: Nail clippings were collected from adult female and male volunteers. The wet DSC was employed to validate sample preparation, explore the effects of gender, and assess the potential of using blended nails for claims substantiation testing. Nails were sensitized through bleaching using hydrogen peroxide. The effects were confirmed through DSC and nail flexure tests. Furthermore, the ability of actives to address concerns related to nail softness and brittleness was assessed using these techniques., Results: The results confirmed the viability of equilibrating nails in water for up to 14 h as a standardized testing method. The denaturation temperature results were independent of gender and suitable for claims substantiation testing. Blending nails from different sources did not yield significant variations in denaturation properties. A preliminary study suggested that cadaver nails should be used with caution because they exhibited differences in denaturation temperature, influenced by the sampling location. Bending fatigue tests highlighted the significance of humidity, with higher humidity conditions (80%) enhancing nail flexibility and providing better resolution for claims substantiation. Sensitizing the nails with hydrogen peroxide induced alterations in both DSC and bending fatigue results. Proof-of-principle studies demonstrated an elevation in denaturation temperature and a decrease in the number of cycles to break, indicating a nail-hardening effect when formaldehyde was applied. The use of a nail softener led to an enhancement in nail fatigue resistance due to a notable reduction in nail crosslinking density., Conclusions: The measurement of crosslinking density proved to be a sensitive tool for assessing the effects of cosmetic treatments on nails, particularly in predicting outcomes related to nail brittleness and flexibility., (© 2024 The Authors. International Journal of Cosmetic Science published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)

Background: Retinoids, defined as synthetic or natural derivatives of vitamin A, have been extensively studied as anti-aging molecules that are widely applied in cosmetics. However, due to their physicochemical property, retinoids are highly unstable and extremely sensitive to light, oxygen, and temperature. Moreover, topical application of retinoids often leads to cutaneous irritation. These instabilities and irritant properties of retinoids limit their application in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products., Aim: Our study aimed to provide a systematic review to summarize the mechanisms underlying the instability and irritant properties of retinoids, as well as recent developments in addressing these challenges., Methods: A comprehensive PubMed search was conducted using the following keywords: retinoids, chemical instability, skin irritation, retinoid derivatives, nano lipid-based carriers, liposomes, penetration-enhancer vesicles, ethosomes, niosomes, nanoemulsions, solid lipid nanoparticles, vitamins, soothing and hydrating agents, antioxidants and metal chelator and retinol combinations. Relevant researches published between 1968 and 2023 and studies related to these reports were reviewed., Results: The development of new retinoid derivatives, the utilization of new delivery systems like nano lipid-based carriers and the combination with other compounds like vitamins, soothing agents, antioxidants and metal chelator have been explored to improve the stability, bioavailability, and toxicity of the retinoid family., Conclusions: Through advancements in formulation techniques, structure modification of retinoid derivatives and development of novel nano lipid-based carriers, the chemical instability and skin irritation of retinoids has been mitigated, ensuring their efficacy and potency over extended periods., (© 2024 The Author(s). Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.)

The certification of cosmetic products has always been a prominent concern. Here, we have developed a pH sensor and applied it in the field of cosmetic safety. Initially, we designed two probes, CH with aggregation-induced emission (AIE) effect and the near-infrared fluorophore derivative CYTYR. By encapsulating them with DSPE-PEG2000-NH 2 , we obtained the CHCY-lipo nano-micelles with fluorescence resonance energy transfer (FRET) response. By combining them into a sensor array called pC, we achieved sensitive detection of a wide pH range, ranging from 4.69 to 9.25. To validate the performance of the pC sensor array, we employed a multi-channel mode and applied it to differentiate commercial anti-aging creams. Through linear discriminant analysis and 3D fingerprint analysis, the pC sensor array successfully distinguished anti-aging creams from different countries, providing a rapid and accurate method for cosmetic safety identification. The results of this study demonstrate the potential of the pC sensor array for quick authentication of cosmetic products, offering significant support and application prospects in safeguarding consumer health., Competing Interests: Declaration of competing interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (Copyright © 2024 The Author(s). Published by Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) assessed the safety of three methylxanthines, Caffeine, Theobromine, and Theophylline, as used in cosmetics. All of these ingredients are reported to function as skin-conditioning agents in cosmetic products. The Panel reviewed the data relevant to the safety of these ingredients and concluded that Caffeine, Theobromine, and Theophylline are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in this safety assessment., Competing Interests: Declaration of Conflicting InterestThe author(s) declared no potential conflicts of interest with respect to the research, authorship, and/or publication of this article.

Background: Titanium dioxide (TiO 2 ), a white powder, represents the opacifier used in many products, including drugs, foods, cosmetics, paints, and dyes., Method: The Uv-Vis spectrophotometry was a particularly suitable technique to quantify TiO 2 in the solutions obtained from cosmetics. In this work, we determined the TiO 2 content in a total of 88 samples of eye shadows and face powders of different brands and costs. Before to analyse the samples, we developed the mineralization and analysis method, in fact, fusion with potassium bisulphate would be very laborious because it must be carried out on one sample at a time and requires very long times, instead, the mineralization with the acid mixture and the aid of microwaves allowed us to solubilize six samples at the same time within 45 min., Results: From the results obtained, we can state that the highest concentrations of TiO 2 are found in the eyeshadows with a maximum value of 36% in a blue eyeshadow., (© 2024 The Author(s). Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.)

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of 10 polyol phosphates. Some of the possible functions in cosmetics that are reported for this ingredient group are chelating agents, oral care agents, and skin conditioning agents. The Panel reviewed relevant data relating to the safety of these ingredients under the intended conditions of use in cosmetic formulations, and concluded that Sodium Phytate, Phytic Acid, Phytin, and Trisodium Inositol Triphosphate are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in the safety assessment. The Panel also concluded that the data are insufficient to determine the safety of the following 6 ingredients as used in cosmetics: Disodium Glucose Phosphate, Manganese Fructose Diphosphate, Sodium Mannose Phosphate, Trisodium Fructose Diphosphate, Xylityl Phosphate, and Zinc Fructose Diphosphate., Competing Interests: Declaration of Conflicting InterestsThe author(s) declared no potential conflicts of interest with respect to the research, authorship, and/or publication of this article.

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) first published a safety assessment of Sodium Dehydroacetate and Dehydroacetic Acid in 1985. The Panel previously concluded that Sodium Dehydroacetate and Dehydroacetic Acid are safe as used in the present practices of use and concentration, as stated in that report. Upon re-review in 2003, the Panel reaffirmed the original conclusion, as published in 2006. The Panel reviewed updated frequency and concentration of use data again in 2023, in addition to any newly available, relevant safety data. Considering this information, as well as the information provided in the original safety assessment and the prior re-review document, the Panel reaffirmed the 1985 conclusion., Competing Interests: Declaration of Conflicting InterestThe author(s) declared no potential conflicts of interest with respect to the research, authorship, and/or publication of this article.

Terminalia chebula exhibits a high level of antioxidant capacity and is highly valued in medicine and cosmetics. However, its main efficacy and active ingredients related to antioxidant, whitening, and anti-aging are still unclear. In this study, the active site responsible for its cosmetic efficacy was specified by the biological activity-guided method and further characterized by using ultra-high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with quadrupole time-of-flight mass spectrometry (UHPLC-QTOF-MS/MS). T. chebula was ultrasonically extracted by five solvents, and 30% ethanol extract was screened out for subsequent purification by 1,1-D-iphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical (DPPH), 2,2'-Azinobis-(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonate) (ABTS), hydroxyl, and superoxide anion free radical scavenging assays. Five elution fractions were obtained by column chromatography on D101 macroporous adsorbent resin eluted by an increased proportion of ethanol. The 30% ethanol elution fraction was specified as the enrichment site of active ingredients showing good antioxidant capacity and potent inhibitory activity against tyrosinase and elastase. A total of 30 compounds were identified by UHPLC-QTOF-MS/MS in the 30% ethanol elution fraction, including 11 gallotannins, 14 ellagitannins, and 5 other compounds, and these compounds may be the key ingredients in cosmetics beneficial for the skin. Such a biological activity-guided method has provided a simple and rapid venue for specifying the components of medicinal herbs responsible for cosmetic efficacy., (© 2024 John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

The multibiocomponent hybrid alginate hydrogels based on brown and sea algae, containing 100 % ingredients of natural origin were prepared by ionic crosslinking reaction of a polymeric matrix with lipid nanodispersion. To the best of the Authors' knowledge such multicomponent biobased hydrogel of promising medical and cosmetical applications for the first time was obtained in the environment of flower water, received earlier as a waste by-product from various chemical processes. An innovative hybrid alginate hydrogel that is completely biodegradable and eco-friendly was obtained following waterless and upcycling trends that are in line with the principles of sustainable development. The optimal composition of the lipid nanodispersion and the polymeric matrix was selected using the statistical method of design of the experiment. Based on obtained results, multibiocomponent hybrid alginate hydrogels with various ratios of lipid nanodispersion were obtained. Subsequently, the porous structure and elasticity of the hybrid hydrogels were analyzed. Moreover, to confirm the safety of the multibiocomponent alginate hybrid hydrogels the cytotoxic tests were carried out using human fibroblasts and keratinocytes cell lines. As the final product hybrid of hydrolate-swollen alginate hydrogel and lipid nanodispersion containing several active ingredients (silymarin, bakuchiol, spirulina) was obtained., Competing Interests: Declaration of competing interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (Copyright © 2024 The Author(s). Published by Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

In Bangladesh, body soaps are very popular among consumers due to their flavors and low alkali content. The current study assesses the contamination of several trace metals (TMs) such as iron (Fe), copper (Cu), zinc (Zn), chromium (Cr), manganese (Mn), nickel (Ni), cadmium (Cd), and lead (Pb) in some of the body soaps most commonly used in Bangladesh. The concentrations of Fe, Cu, Zn, Cr, and Mn were found within the acceptable limits stipulated by the World Health Organization (WHO); however, in contrast, the concentrations of Ni, Cd, and Pb remained below the detection limit. Notably, the concentration of Cr in two soap samples (S-2, S-3) out of twenty-one soap samples exceeded the permissible limit stipulated by the WHO. Health risks associated with the TM intake via dermal routes were evaluated in terms of chronic daily intake (CDI) and hazard quotient (HQ). The results indicated that no non-carcinogenic risks (NCR) are likely to occur owing to the use of those body soaps. The carcinogenic risk (CR) estimated for Cr revealed no possibility of probable carcinogenic diseases. Though the NCR and CR are unlikely to occur resulting from the long-term uses of these soaps, the present study provides baseline information on the possible contaminations of TMs in the beauty soaps that do not seem to have been reported so far in Bangladesh. In light of the above information, it can be concluded that the presence of TMs in the body soaps could be a warning for people in general thereby suggesting continuous monitoring., (© 2023. The Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer Science+Business Media, LLC, part of Springer Nature.)

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of 10 alkanoyl lactyl lactate salts. These ingredients have the surfactant function in cosmetics in common. The Panel reviewed data relevant to the safety of these ingredients, and concluded that these 10 ingredients are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in the safety assessment when formulated to be nonirritating and nonsensitizing, which may be based on a quantitative risk assessment (QRA) or other accepted methodologies., Competing Interests: Declaration of Conflicting InterestThe author(s) declared no potential conflicts of interest with respect to the research, authorship, and/or publication of this article.

As cannabidiol (CBD) is not considered to be a drug and because of its potential health claims, it is an interesting compound that is often found in cosmetics. However, the safety of CBD, as well as the presence of trace amounts of other phytocannabinoids, including the psychoactive substance ∆ 9 -tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), is still being debated. A robust analytical technique capable of analysing cosmetic products and determining their phytocannabinoid content will be crucial in assessing the safety of these products. This systematic review aims to highlight the current analytical tools that could be used to analyse phytocannabinoids in cosmetics. The ideal method would be able to analyse high levels of CBD in combination with trace levels of THC and their acids. The method should provide good recoveries and accuracies in a variety of matrices while providing information on up-coming phytocannabinoids such as cannabichromene (CBC), cannabigerol (CBG) and cannabinol (CBN). The systematic review approach was based on the Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic review and Meta-Analyses method. The research focused on studies published from January 2010 to December 2022 in PubMed and Scopus. A total of 15 datasets met the inclusion and exclusion criteria and were tabulated to allow easy comparison. Although some of the reviewed methods can handle multiple matrices and provide satisfactory recoveries, this review process did not identify an ideal method. The most suitable methods either could not quantify phytocannabinoid acids or were not sensitive enough to quantify trace levels of psychoactive phytocannabinoids., (© 2024 John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Background: 1,4-Dioxane (1,4-D) is a byproduct of the synthesis of surfactants, typically found in some cosmetics products such as shampoo, toothpaste, and soap. The presence of 1,4-D in cosmetics products is limited to a certain amount since 1,4-D is classified as a probable human carcinogen., Objective: This present study was intended to validate static headspace gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (HS GC-MS) for the determination of 1,4-D in cosmetics products., Methods: The condition of HS and GC-MS was optimized to get the best condition for analysis of 1,4-D using 1,4-dioxane-d8 (1,4-D-d8) as internal standard (IS). The developed method was validated by evaluating the key performance characteristics, including specificity, linearity, limit of detection (LoD), limit of quantification (LoQ), accuracy, and precision., Results: The results showed that HS GC-MS was specific since the peaks of the selected ion monitoring (SIM) mode could be separated and confirmed at m/z 88 and m/z 96 for 1,4-D and 1,4-D-d8, respectively. The method was linear over the concentration range of 0.1287-1.2875 µg/mL, with R2 > 0.999 and RSD residuals <2.0. A collaborative study was conducted on this method, with 10 participating laboratories from four countries. The outcome of this study was found to be accurate and precise, as evidenced by the excellent recoveries ranging from 94.6% to 102.1%, and with good reproducibility with RSD values ranging from 0.2 to 1.1%. The collaborative studies exhibited that all data reported by 10 participating laboratories in four countries were inliers without any extreme values observed either in mean or RSD values., Conclusions: HS GC-MS is found to be fit and suitable for the determination of trace level of 1,4-D in cosmetics products., Highlights: The HS GC-MS method could be proposed as a standard method for quantitative analysis of 1,4-D in cosmetics products since the collaborative studies indicated that the developed method meet the requirement in "Guidelines for Collaborative Study Procedures to Validate Characteristics of a Method of Analysis.", (© The Author(s) 2024. Published by Oxford University Press on behalf of AOAC INTERNATIONAL. All rights reserved. For permissions, please email: journals.permissions@oup.com.)

Surfactin is a natural surfactant almost exclusively produced by Bacillus species with excellent physical-chemical, and biological properties. Among innovative applications, surfactin has been recently used as an ingredient in formulations. The antibacterial and anti-acne activities, as well as the anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, and cleansing features, are some of the reasons this lipopeptide is used in cosmetics. Considering the importance of biosurfactants in the world economy and sustainability, their potential properties for cosmetic and dermatological products, and the importance of patents for technological advancement in a circular bioeconomy system, the present study aims to review all patents involving surfactin as an ingredient in cosmetic formulas. This review was conducted through Espacenet, wherein patents containing the terms "cosmetic" and "surfactin" in their titles, abstracts, or claims were examined. Those patents that detailed a specific surfactin dosage within their formulations were selected for analysis. All patents, irrespective of their publication date, from October 1989 to December 2022, were considered. Additionally, a comprehensive search was performed in the MEDLINE and EMBASE databases, spanning from their inception until the year 2023. This complementary search aimed to enrich the understanding derived from patents, with a specific emphasis on surfactin, encompassing its associated advantages, efficacy, mechanisms of action on the skin, as well as aspects related to sustainability and its merits in cosmetic formulations. From the 105 patents analysed, 75% belong to Japan (54), China (14), and Korea (9). Most of them were submitted by Asian companies such as Showa Denko (15), Kaneka (11) and Kao Corporation (5). The formulations described are mainly emulsions, skincare, cleansing, and haircare, and the surfactin dose does not exceed 5%. Surfactin appears in different types of formulas worldwide and has a high tendency to be used. Surfactin and other biosurfactants are a promising alternative to chemical ingredients in cosmetic formulations, guaranteeing skin health benefits and minimizing the impact on the environment., (© 2024 The Authors. International Journal of Cosmetic Science published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)

The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety (Panel) reviewed the safety of 30 vinylpyrrolidone polymers as used in cosmetic products; most of these ingredients have the reported cosmetic function of film former in common. The Panel reviewed data relevant to the safety of these ingredients, and determined that 27 vinylpyrrolidone polymers are safe in cosmetics in the present practices of use and concentration described in the safety assessment. The Panel also concluded that the available data are insufficient to make a determination that 3 vinylpyrrolidone polymers (all urethanes) are safe under the intended conditions of use in cosmetic formulations., Competing Interests: Declaration of Conflicting InterestThe author(s) declared no potential conflicts of interest with respect to the research, authorship, and/or publication of this article.

The pursuit of cosmetic ingredients with proven efficacy and safety that meet consumer needs drives the advancement of new products. Ascorbic acid (AA) is utilized in cosmetic products, predominantly for its potent antioxidant properties. Nonetheless, its instability compromises its efficacy. In this work, ascorbyl 2- O -glucoside persulfate (AAGS) was synthesized, characterized, and evaluated regarding its safety profile and potential bioactivities and the results were compared to AA and its glycoside AAG. Pre-formulation studies were performed to assess the stability of the compounds and their compatibility with typical excipients commonly used in topical formulations. AAGS did not affect the metabolic activity of keratinocyte, macrophage, and monocyte cell lines, up to 500 µM. AAGS also exhibited a non-prooxidant and non-sensitizing profile and anti-allergic activity by impeding the allergen-induced maturation of THP-1 cells. When compared to AA and AAG, AAGS was shown to be more stable at pH values between 5 and 7, as well as superior thermostability and photostability. AAGS demonstrated higher stability in metal solutions of Fe(II) and Mg(II) than AA. AAGS demonstrated similar DPPH radical scavenging activity compared to AA. These results provide useful information for the development of new AA derivatives, highlighting AAGS as a novel cosmetic ingredient.

Cosmetically applicable soluble agonists for Toll-like receptor 2 (TLR2), which can strengthen skin barrier function, were produced by fermentation of asparagus ( Asparagus officinalis L.) extract supplemented with skimmed milk using Lactobacillus delbrueckii subsp. lactis TL24. Their molecular size was estimated to be >100 kDa. Their TLR2-stimulating activity was stable over 1 year at 4 °C, but it decreased by more than 95% within 10 and 4 months at 25 °C and 40 °C, respectively. The possibility of stabilization of TLR2-stimulating activity by powdering was tested, and we found that lyophilization with 10% or a higher amount of dextrin could stabilize the activity even at 40 °C. The powdered fermented product dose-dependently stimulated TLR2. It augmented the formation of tight junctions in normal human keratinocytes, as detected by fluorescence staining of occludin and ZO-1, whereas their protein and gene expression levels did not increase, suggesting that a change in subcellular localization of these proteins without significant changes in their amounts might be responsible. The powder nature has some benefits over the aqueous, besides stability, e.g., it can be dissolved just before application, allowing fresh material to be used each time, and it may widen a range of cosmetic applications in non-aqueous types of cosmetics.

Emulsion products with natural antimicrobials are becoming increasingly popular for topical application. Mandelic Acid is interesting in cosmetics due to its potent exfoliating properties, which have driven advancements in skincare technologies. Essential oils have various properties, of which the most useful in cosmetics are those that do not cause irritation, smell pleasant, and have other beneficial properties such as antimicrobial effects. Emulsions with Mandelic Acid and essential oils from Satureja montana , Lemongrass , and Litsea cubeba were formulated and microbiologically tested for their preservative effectiveness. The effect of the treatments on skin condition was monitored by non-invasive diagnostic methods, such as hydration, transepidermal water loss, and pH value. Sensory analysis revealed that the matrix containing Mandelic Acid alone or combined with Litsea Cubeba Oil was the best-performing formulation, consistent with the compliant results of antimicrobial efficacy. The topical form of this cosmetic product has demonstrated excellent preservative activity and desirable biophysical efficacy on the skin.

As a prescription drug, retinoic acid is listed as a banned cosmetic additive in the EU and China regulations. Currently, spectrophotometric methods, including thin-layer chromatography (TLC), high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC), and HPLC-MS/MS, are commonly used for the determination of retinoic acid. As these conventional methods require complex pretreatment and are time-consuming, chemical derivatization combined with paper spray ionization mass spectrometry was developed for the fast detection of retinoic acid in cosmetics. N,N-dimethylpiperazine iodide (DMPI) was utilized as a derivatization reagent. Carboxylic acid in retinoic acid was derivatized to carry a positive charge and was subjected to mass spectrometry analysis. Results showed that compared with non-derivatized compounds, the detection limit was increased by about 50 times. The linearity in the range of 0.005-1 μg·mL -1 was good. The limit of detection (LOD) was 0.0013 μg·mL -1 , and the limit of quantification (LOQ) was 0.0043 μg·mL -1 . The recoveries of spiked samples were in the range of 95-105%, and the RSDs were below 5%. Derivatization and paper spray ionization MS render a quick, sensitive, and accurate method for the detection of retinoic acid in a complex matrix.

Solid lipid nanoparticles (SLNs) incorporated with retinol and oligopeptide can have a full spectrum of effects on the skin as a compatible combination of ingredients with broad anti-aging properties. The research's main objective was to ensure the stability of lipid nanocarriers containing retinol and peptide due to the planned use of this dispersion as a cosmetic raw material. To confirm the effectiveness of method optimization (high shear homogenization, HSH) and proper selection of substrates, SLN dispersions were obtained in three combinations: 1-non-incorporated SLNs; 2-SLNs containing only retinol; 3-SLNs containing retinol and pentapeptide-18; these were then stored at different temperatures (4, 25, 45 °C) for 4 weeks. The desired values of the physicochemical parameters of the optimized dispersion of lipid nanoparticles incorporated with retinol and oligopeptide over the required storage period were confirmed: mean particle size (Z-Ave) = 134.7 ± 0.3 nm; polydispersity index (PDI) = 0.269 ± 0.017 [-]; zeta potential (ZP) = 42.7 ± 1.2 mV (after 4 weeks at 25 °C). The results confirmed the proper selection of the SLN production method and the effectiveness of the optimization performed. The possibility of using the obtained raw material as an ingredient in cosmetic products with anti-aging properties was indicated.

In recent years, snail mucus (SM) has become popular as an active ingredient in cosmetic and pharmaceutical products. In turn, snail eggs (SEs) also seem to be a promising active compound, but the biological activities of SEs are significantly less known. Therefore, our preliminary study aimed to compare the biological activities of the SEs and SM of Helix aspersa Müller. The metabolomic analysis (LC-MS technique), determination of the antimicrobial activity (agar diffusion test, broth microdilution methods), antioxidant activity (ABTS assay), cytotoxicity assay (MTT), and proapoptotic properties (flow cytometry) of the SEs and SM were evaluated. It was found that the SEs and SM contain 8005 and 7837 compounds, respectively. The SEs showed antibacterial activity against S. aureus (MIC 12.5 mg/mL) and P. aeruginosa (MIC 3.12 mg/mL). The EC50 estimation of the antioxidant activity is 89.64 mg/mL and above 100 mg/mL for the SEs and SM, respectively. The SEs also inhibited the cell proliferation of cancer cell lines (HCT-116, MCF-7, HT-29) more strongly compared to the SM. The highest proportion of apoptotic cells in HCT-116 was observed. The reach composition of the compounds in the SEs and SM may be crucial for the creation of new cosmetic and pharmaceutical raw materials with different biological activities. However, further extended studies on the biological activities of H. aspersa -delivered materials are still necessary.

A novel high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) method with 4- N , N -dimethylaminobenzaldehyde as an internal standard was developed for the determination of Camphor with the main goal of facilitating the analysis of different cosmetic and pharmaceutical products that contain Camphor in analytical laboratories. The method can be applied to cosmetic and pharmaceutical samples such as gels, ointments, and creams containing Camphor. Chromatographic separation was carried out on the Symmetry ® C18, 5 μm column (Waters), 250 × 4.6 equipped with guard column E, InertSustain C18, 5 µm, while using the flow of 1.4 mL/min, with a column temperature of 25 °C. The mobile phase consisted of 600 mL of acetonitrile, 400 mL of purified water, and 6 mL of glacial acetic acid. The method was evaluated in accordance with ICH Q2 (R2) guidelines for validation parameters: selectivity, linearity (range 0.10-3.00 mg/mL), the limit of detection (LOD = 0.028 mg/mL), the limit of quantification (LOQ = 0.085 mg/mL), accuracy (confidence intervals < 0.05%), repeatability (peak area ratio = 0.39-1.97), and intermediate precision (peak area ratio = 0.40-1.98). The method is applicable for detecting and quantifying Camphor in a variety of cosmetic and pharmaceutical products from different parts of the world, thus covering the concentrations required by different law legislations.

Bioaromas can be produced by lipases either through their hydrolytic or (trans)esterifying activities. Therefore, this work reports the development of a lipase-catalyzed biotransformed licuri oil, forming volatile ethyl esters with odor notes resembling tropical fruits. Ethyl octanoate formation was promoted when 7.0 % (m/v) Lipozyme 435® was used to convert a grain alcohol:licuri oil mixture (51:49, v/v) at 58ºC and 70 rpm for 6 hours. The biotransformed oil has shown antimicrobial activity against Staphylococcus hominis, S. epidermidis, and Corynebacterium xerosis, bacteria associated with bad skin odor. Finally, this biotransformed oil was used without further treatments (e.g., recovery or purification procedures) to prepare two cosmetic formulations (in a dosage of 1.5 %), aiming for both fragrant and deodorant activity., Competing Interests: Declaration of Competing Interest The authors declare the following financial interests/personal relationships which may be considered as potential competing interests: The authors declare that they have a patent application (BR102024007414–9) related to the results presented in this document., (Copyright © 2024 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

The genus Vaccinium is represented by shrubs growing in a temperate climate that have been used for ages as traditional remedies in the treatment of digestive problems, in diabetes, renal stones or as antiseptics due to the presence of polyphenols (anthocyanins, flavonoids and tannins) in their fruits and leaves. Recent studies confirm their marked potential in the treatment of skin disorders and as skin care cosmetics. The aim of this review is to present the role of Vaccinium spp. as cosmetic products, highlight their potential and prove the biological properties exerted by the extracts from different species that can be useful for the preparation of innovative cosmetics. In the manuscript both skin care and therapeutic applications of the representatives of this gender will be discussed that include the antioxidant, skin lightening, UV-protective, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and chemopreventive properties to shed new light on these underestimated plants.

Pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) which include antibiotics such as tetracycline (TC) and ciprofloxacin (CIP), etc., have attracted increasing attention worldwide due to their potential threat to the aquatic environment and human health. In this work, a facile sol-gel method was developed to prepare tungsten-doped TiO 2 with tunable W 5+ /W 6+ ratio for the removal of PPCPs. The influence of solvents in the synthesis of the three different tungsten precursors doped TiO 2 is also taken into account. WCl 6 , ammonium metatungstate (AMT), and Na 2 WO 4 ●2H 2 O not only acted as the tungsten precursors but also controlled the tungsten ratio. The photocatalyst prepared by WCl 6 as the tungsten precursor and ethanol as the solvent showed the highest photodegradation performance for ciprofloxacin (CIP) and tetracycline (TC), and the photodegradation performance for tetracycline (TC) was 2.3, 2.8, and 7.8 times that of AMT, Na 2 WO 4 ●2H 2 O as the tungsten precursors and pristine TiO 2 , respectively. These results were attributed to the influence of the tungsten precursors and solvents on the W 5+ /W 6+ ratio, sample crystallinity and surface properties. This study provides an effective method for the design of tungsten-doped TiO 2 with tunable W 5+ /W 6+ ratio, which has a profound impact on future studies in the field of photocatalytic degradation of PPCPs using an environmentally friendly approach.

Purpose: The study explored the enhanced skin moisturizing capabilities and moisture retention effects achieved by forming a polyion complex using sulfated glycosaminoglycan (GAG), specifically chondroitin sulfate (CS), and amino acids (AA) such as glutamine (Q) and arginine (R). The overall hydration effect of this CS-AA complex was examined., Methods: After analyzing the CS-AA polyion complex structure using spectroscopic methods, the ex vivo moisture retention ability was assessed under dry conditions using porcine skin samples. Additionally, the efficacy of the CS-AA polyion complex in reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and improving skin hydration was evaluated on human subjects using a digital evaporimeter and a corneometer, respectively., Results: Validating a systematic reduction in particle size, the following order was observed: CS > CS/AA simple mixture > CS-AA complex based on dynamic light scattering (DLS) and transmission electron microscopy (TEM) analysis. Furthermore, observations revealed that the CS-AA complex exhibits negligible surface charge. Additionally, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) analysis demonstrated a distinct peak shift in the complex, confirming the successful formation of the CS-AA complex. Subsequently, the water-holding effect through porcine skin was assessed, revealing a notable improvement in moisture retention (weight loss) for the CS-Q complex: 40.6% (1 h), 20.5% (2 h), and 18.7% (4 h) compared to glycerin. Similarly, the CS-R complex demonstrated enhancements of 50.2% (1 h), 37.5% (2 h), and 33% (4 h) compared to glycerin. Furthermore, TEWL improvement efficacy on human skin demonstrated approximately 25% improvement for both the CS-Q complex and CS-R complex, surpassing the modest 12.5% and 18% improvements witnessed with water and glycerin applications, respectively. Finally, employing a corneometer, hydration changes in the skin were monitored over 4 weeks. Although CS alone exhibited nominal alterations, the CS-Q complex and CS-R complex showed a significant increase in moisture levels after 4 weeks of application., Conclusion: In this study, polyion complexes were successfully formed between CS, a sulfated GAG, and AA. Comparisons with glycerin, a well-known moisturizing agent, confirmed that the CS-AA complex exhibits superior moisturizing effects in various aspects. These findings suggest that the CS-AA complex is a more effective ingredient than CS or AA alone in terms of efficacy., (© 2024 The Author(s). Skin Research and Technology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Topical corticosteroids are used extensively in dermatology. Class 1 high potency topical steroids (HPTS) can result in unwanted side effects such as skin hypopigmentation, atrophy, and acneiform eruptions. HPTS are only legally available by prescription to ensure appropriate use in the United States (US). The authors have noticed a recent increase in patients presenting with steroid acne after buying HPTS products in beauty supply stores. These products are marketed as fade creams to treat hyperpigmentation and uneven skin tone. We assessed skincare products containing HPTS (clobetasol or betamethasone) in 33 beauty supply stores in Miami, FL; Washington, DC; and Baltimore, MD. Out of 33 beauty supply stores, 14 (42.42%) contained HPTS skincare products, and they were all located in Miami. Out of 15 stores visited in Miami, 14 (93.33%) contained skincare products with clobetasol, and 5 (33.33%) contained skincare products with both clobetasol and betamethasone. Of the stores selling HPTS skincare products, the number of different brands available ranged from 1 to 7, with an average of 4.21 different brands per store. Our study reveals that HPTS are readily available in over-the-counter skincare products in many beauty supply stores. HPTS skincare products were only available in one of three cities suggesting there may be a regional supplier distributing these products. It may also indicate that there is less oversight of retail stores in Miami with HPTS products. More studies are needed to quantify the availability of these products in different locations throughout the US. Further Studies can help identify this problem and raise awareness among consumers of the dangers of HPTS skincare products in beauty supply stores. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024;23(9):709-712. doi:10.36849/JDD.7608.

Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that induce surface tension reduction, washing, and emulsification and are used for various purposes. Recently, biosurfactants manufactured from renewable resources and with high biocompatibility have gained increasing attention. Sophorolipid (SL), a type of biosurfactant derived from Starmerella bombicola, possesses detergency and emulsification properties, making it suitable for household and personal care applications. However, there are limited toxicological data on SLs. In this study, we conducted cytotoxicity and skin-irritation tests using SLs, revealing that cytotoxicity and skin irritation induced by SLs were extremely low (logIC 50 = 4.76 mg/L) and equivalent to those of solvents and oils used in personal care products.

Hyperpigmentation disorders may result from inappropriate melanin deposition and/or excessive melanin synthesis. They are classified mainly as aesthetic problems, but they can significantly affect human health by decreasing self-esteem. There are available only limited treatment options for hyperpigmentation disorder, among others, cosmetic products applied topically. Depigmenting ingredients were found to be ineffective and characterized by various side effects. As a result, many efforts are made to discover novel, potent, and safe melanogenesis inhibitors for possible use in topical cosmetic depigmenting formulations. Cinnamic acid derivatives constitute a widely tested group for that purpose. This article reports research in the group of N-alkyl cinnamamide derivatives (un)substituted in phenyl ring. Among tested series, (E)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-N-(5-hydroxypentyl)acrylamide (compound 21) showed the most promising inhibitory properties in mushroom tyrosinase assay (IC 50  = 36.98 ± 1.07 µM for monophenolase activity, IC 50  = 146.71 ± 16.82 µM for diphenolase activity) and melanin production inhibition in B16F10 mouse melanoma cell line at concentration 6.25 µM resulting probably from decreasing of Tyr, Mitf, Tyrp-1, and Tyrp-2 genes expression. This compound also showed melanin production inhibitory properties in pigmented reconstructed human epidermis when used in 1 % and 2 % solutions in 50 % PEG400. In vitro evaluation of its safety profile showed no cytotoxicity to human keratinocytes HaCaT, human skin fibroblasts BJ, and human primary epidermal melanocytes HEMa, no mutagenicity in the Ames test, no genotoxicity in micronucleus test, no phototoxicity, as well as no skin irritation potential tested in PEG400 solution. This compound was also shown to penetrate across the epidermis to reach the possible site of action. The performed research led to classify (E)-3-(4-chlorophenyl)-N-(5-hydroxypentyl)acrylamide as a novel potential depigmenting cosmetic ingredient., Competing Interests: Declaration of competing interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (Copyright © 2024 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.)

The utilization of polyols as green solvents for extracting bioactive compounds from plant materials has gained attention due to their safety and inert behavior with plant bioactive chemicals. This study explores the sustainable extraction of phenolic compounds and natural antioxidants from coffee silverskin using the microwave-assisted extraction (MAE) method with polyol-based solvents: glycerin, propylene glycol (PG), butylene glycol (BG), methylpropanediol (MPD), isopentyldiol (IPD), pentylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, and hexylene glycol (HG). A comparative analysis was conducted on conventional and non-conventional solvent extractions, focusing on their impact on the bioactive compounds of MAE, encompassing parameters such as total phenolic content (TPC), total flavonoid content (TFC), and antioxidant activities like the 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl radical scavenging assay (DPPH), the 2,2'-azino-bis(-3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid) radical scavenging assay (ABTS), and the ferric reducing antioxidant power assay (FRAP). The highest values were observed for TPC with aqueous-1,2-hexanediol extraction (52.0 ± 3.0 mg GAE/g sample), TFC with aqueous-1,2-hexanediol extraction (20.0 ± 1.7 mg QE/g sample), DPPH with aqueous-HG extraction (13.6 ± 0.3 mg TE/g sample), ABTS with aqueous-pentylene glycol extraction (8.2 ± 0.1 mg TE/g sample), and FRAP with aqueous-HG extraction (21.1 ± 1.3 mg Fe (II) E/g sample). This research aims to advance eco-friendly extraction technology through natural plant components, promoting sustainability by minimizing hazardous chemical use while reducing time and energy consumption, with potential applications in cosmetics.

This study aims to describe a protocol for a systematic review and meta-analysis that assesses the detection and concentration of pharmaceutical products, drugs, and personal care products in European waters. This study protocol was developed following the recommendations of the Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analysis (PRISMA-P) statement and the Cochrane Handbook of Systematic Reviews of Interventions. We will include studies conducted on European waters of various origins (watersheds, aquifers, rivers, seas, springs, wastewaters, and drinking water). A comprehensive search strategy will be implemented in the following databases: PubMed (Medline), EMBASE, Scopus, and Web of Science. Two independent reviewers will conduct all study selection procedures, data extraction, and methodological evaluation. Any disagreements will be referred to a third reviewer. If the studies are sufficiently homogeneous, we will conduct a meta-analysis to summarize the data. We will use the Grading of Recommendations Assessment, Development, and Evaluation (GRADE) to assess the certainty of the evidence. The systematic review and meta-analysis will provide valuable information about the presence and concentration of these types of contaminants in water, aiding in the development of public policies regarding prevention and decontamination measures to enhancing water quality in Europe., Competing Interests: The authors have declared that no competing interests exist., (Copyright: © 2024 Serrano Valera et al. This is an open access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original author and source are credited.)

The development of self-preserving personal care cosmetics represents a significant advancement in the cosmetics industry, offering safer and more natural alternatives to consumers. This study focused on the preparation of such formulations using multifunctional ingredients along with other cosmetic components. Five unique multifunctional ingredients (MFIs) were identified based on their antimicrobial properties: sodium coco PG-dimonium chloride phosphate, ricinoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, raspberry ketone, and sorbitan caprylate. Through meticulous experimentation, 150 combinations of MFIs were prepared and tested to understand their synergistic actions. From these trials, three synergistic antimicrobial compositions were determined: sodium coco PG-dimonium chloride phosphate: ricinoleic acid: raspberry ketone in the ratios 1:6.3:6.3 and 1:6.3:15.7. Sodium coco PG-dimonium chloride phosphate: palmitoleic acid: sorbitan caprylate at a ratio of 1:12.5:37.5. These synergistic compositions exhibited enhanced antimicrobial efficacy compared with their individual components, as evidenced by their lower Minimum Inhibitory Concentration values. Incorporating these formulations into three distinct personal care cosmetic products, including a color protection shampoo, body wash shower gel, and skin-lightening cream, the study further validated their effectiveness. A Preservation Challenge Test study revealed that all three antimicrobial compositions successfully preserved the cosmetic formulations for up to 28 days. This method of product preservation not only ensures consumer safety and stability but also reduces the need for potentially conventional preservatives. In conclusion, the appropriate use of multifunctional ingredients in combination with meticulous formulation techniques has led to the successful development of self-preserving personal care cosmetics. These formulations offer a promising avenue for the cosmetic industry, catering to the rising demand for natural, effective, and consumer-friendly cosmetic products., (© 2024. The Author(s).)

Preservative ingredients in cosmetic formulations undertake a necessary role in the prevention of microbial contamination. In this field, there is an unmet need for natural, sustainable, and effective preservatives. Thus, the main goal of this work was to evaluate a sugarcane straw extract-based ingredient and investigate its potential as a preservative for cosmetic applications. Different ingredients were developed using several cosmetic solvents to improve the solubility of the extracted compounds. The antimicrobial activity was assessed against Staphylococcus aureus , Escherichia coli , Pseudomonas aeruginosa , and Candida albicans . The 1,2-hexanediol was the solvent that allowed us to achieve the ingredient (20% dry extract dispersed in 25% 1,2-hexanediol in water) with the best antimicrobial performance, showing a minimum inhibitory concentration of between 5% and 3% ( I ). The 5% ( w / v ) concentration of this ingredient complied with the USP51 standards for cosmetic preservatives. Real-time (25 °C, 65% RH) and accelerated stability (40 °C, 75% RH) tests were conducted to determine the ingredient stability, and it was found that one month of storage time at room temperature would be ideal for better ingredient stability and performance in terms of composition, pH, color, and antioxidant activity.

Among the various compounds regarded as emerging contaminants (ECs), pharmaceuticals and personal care products (PPCPs) are of particular concern. Their continuous release into the environment has a negative global impact on human life. This review summarizes the sources, occurrence, persistence, consequences of exposure, and toxicity of PPCPs, and evaluates the various analytical methods used in the identification and quantification of PPCPs in a variety of solid and liquid environmental matrices. The current techniques of choice for the analysis of PPCPs are state-of-the-art liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (LC-MS) or tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS 2 ). However, the complexity of the environmental matrices and the trace levels of micropollutants necessitate the use of advanced sample treatments before these instrumental analyses. Solid-phase extraction (SPE) with different sorbents is now the predominant method used for the extraction of PPCPs from environmental samples. This review also addresses the ongoing analytical method challenges, including sample clean-up and matrix effects, focusing on the occurrence, sample preparation, and analytical methods presently available for the determination of environmental residues of PPCPs. Continuous development of innovative analytical methods is essential for overcoming existing limitations and ensuring the consistency and diversity of analytical methods used in investigations of environmental multi-class compounds.

The present study aims to investigate the current trends in replacing conventional preservatives with multifunctional ingredients with antimicrobial properties for preservation of cosmetics for infants or sensitive population, to decrease their potential for contact dermatitis. We first reviewed the labels of cosmetics purchased from the Chinese market for conventional preservatives and multifunctional ingredients with antimicrobial properties, of which the actual contents were further quantified by chromatographic methods. We identified 7 traditional preservatives (phenoxyethanol, benzoic acid (salts), methylparaben, benzyl alcohol, sorbic acid (salts), propylparaben, and methylisothiazolinone), and 11 alternative ingredients with antimicrobial activities (ethylhexylglycerin, butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, propylene glycol, 1,2-hexanediol, p-anisic acid, hydroxyacetophenone, pentylene glycol, decylene glycol, caprylhydroxamic acid, and aminomethyl propanol) in descending order of prevalence. The contents of all identified preservatives and ingredients were either below regulatory limits or in the range that is generally regarded to be safe. Further challenge with microorganisms indicated irrespective of the composition of preservation systems, product preservation could be compromised under test conditions. We conclude that multifunctional ingredients with antimicrobial properties in cosmetics have the potential to completely replace or significantly reduce the use of traditional preservatives while retaining comparative preservative efficacy. Future attentions may need to be shifted to the safety of those multifunctional ingredients with antimicrobial properties., (© 2024. The Author(s).)

The development of products with skin-protective effects has been driven by the increasing incidence of skin diseases that are exacerbated by increasing pollution, urbanization, poor living, working, fatigue, dietary habits, and general treatment. The ability of antioxidants to protect the skin from oxidative stress and its effects makes them one of the most important ingredients in today's cosmetics. This article aims first to characterize the plant extracts obtained from Acmella oleracea ( A. oleracea ) and then to evaluate the preliminary criteria for a new marketed product: the stability, antioxidant activity, and in vitro behavior of certain serums based on A. oleracea plant extract and hyaluronic acid. The extracts were obtained by liquid-solid extraction methods (maceration (M), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UEA), and a combined method between these two (UEA + M) using an aqueous solution of ethyl alcohol as the extraction solvent. The determination of the amounts of compounds with antioxidant activity highlighted the fact that the extract obtained from the whole plant of A. oleracea using maceration in conditions of S/L = 1:30, 20 days, and an extraction solvent percentage of 50% led to obtaining the highest amount of polyphenols (30.42 μg GAE/g), while using the combined UAE + M method under conditions of S/L = 1:30, 6 min + 20 days, and 50% extraction solvent led to obtaining the highest amount of flavonoids (32.88 mg QE/g). The tests performed on dermato-cosmetic serums based on the plant extract and multimolecular hyaluronic acid (HA) (1 HA with HMW-1.0 mDa-1.6 mDa; HA with LMW-10 kDa-200 kDa; and HA OLIGO, MW < 10 kDa) led to the conclusion that they exhibit structural stability, good shear behavior revealing a satisfactory texture, and high physical stability during storage. These results encourage the transition to in-depth testing, both microbiological and dermatological, as a final step in the consideration of a new commercial product.

Rationale: Illegal addition of anti-infective drugs to cosmetics at low concentrations has been found. The illicit addition of anti-infective drugs encompasses a wide variety of medications. The current sample purification methods are inadequate to detect all these compounds. A sensitive, wide-coverage, and weak-matrix-effect measurement method needs to be established to address this issue., Methods: Samples were extracted using acetonitrile, diluted 25 times, and then analyzed using liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) to detect 111 anti-infective drugs. The method was validated and assessed for matrix effect before being applied to cosmetic products., Results: The calibration curves for the analytes exhibited a strong correlation coefficient (r > 0.995). The limit of detection ranged from 0.006 to 0.6 mg/kg. Matrix effects were significantly improved after a 25-fold dilution. The method was successfully applied to various cosmetics. Two of 82 samples tested contained lincomycin and miconazole, respectively., Conclusions: The developed method is quick and reliable to analyze anti-infective drugs in cosmetics, with potential for both qualitative and quantitative analyses. It is a valuable tool for cosmetic research and development, contributing to safer and more effective cosmetic products., (© 2024 John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

We extended a mechanistic, physics-based framework of the dry down process, previously developed for liquids and electrolytes, to solids and coded it into the latest UB/UC/P&G skin permeation model, herein renamed DigiSkin. The framework accounts for the phase change of the permeant from dissolved in a solvent (liquid) to precipitated on the skin surface (solid). The evaporation rate for the solid is reduced due to lower vapor pressure for the solid state versus subcooled liquid. These vapor pressures may differ by two orders of magnitude. The solid may gradually redissolve and penetrate the skin. The framework was tested by simulating the in vitro human skin permeation of the 38 cosmetically relevant solid compounds reported by Hewitt et al., J. Appl. Toxicol. 2019, 1-13. The more detailed handling of the evaporation process greatly improved DigiSkin evaporation predictions (r 2  = 0.89). Further, we developed a model reliability prediction score classification using diverse protein reactivity data and identified that 15 of 38 compounds are out of model scope. Dermal delivery predictions for the remaining chemicals have excellent agreement with experimental data. The analysis highlighted the sensitivity of water solubility and equilibrium vapor pressure values on the DigiSkin predictions outcomes influencing agreement with the experimental observations., Competing Interests: Declaration of competing interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (Copyright © 2024 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

Pharmaceuticals, personal care products (PPCPs), and endocrine-disrupting compounds (EDCs) have seen a recent sustained increase in usage, leading to increasing discharge and accumulation in wastewater. Conventional water treatment and disinfection processes are somewhat limited in effectively addressing this micropollutant issue. Ultrasonication (US), which serves as an advanced oxidation process, is based on the principle of ultrasound irradiation, exposing water to high-frequency waves, inducing thermal decomposition of H 2 O while using the produced radicals to oxidize and break down dissolved contaminants. This review evaluates research over the past five years on US-based technologies for the effective degradation of EDCs and PPCPs in water and assesses various factors that can influence the removal rate: solution pH, temperature of water, presence of background common ions, natural organic matter, species that serve as promoters and scavengers, and variations in US conditions (e.g., frequency, power density, and reaction type). This review also discusses various types of carbon/non-carbon catalysts, O 3 and ultraviolet processes that can further enhance the degradation efficiency of EDCs and PPCPs in combination with US processes. Furthermore, numerous types of EDCs and PPCPs and recent research trends for these organic contaminants are considered., Competing Interests: Declaration of Competing Interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (Copyright © 2024. Published by Elsevier B.V.)

It has been a challenge to prepared polyether block amide (PEBA) fibrous membrane via solution electrospinning. The only few reported methods though involved hazardous solvents and surfactants which were against the principle of green chemistry. In this work, uniform fibrous membrane of PEBA was successfully fabricated by solution electrospinning with a bio-based solvent dihydrolevoglucosenone (Cyrene). To further improve the mechanical strength and adsorption performance of the PEBA membrane, a hierarchical magnesium hydrogen phosphate (MgHPO 4 ·1.2H 2 O, MHP) was synthesized to blend evenly into the PEBA matrix. A Janus MHP/PEBA membrane with one side of hydrophobic surface and the other side of hydrophilic surface was subsequently prepared, which exhibited fast adsorption, high capacity, good selectivity and reusability towards ibuprofen, acetaminophen, carbamazepine and triclosan. In addition, the Janus membrane showed high removal efficiency of the above contaminants in secondary wastewater effluent with good long term stability. It demonstrated that this Janus MHP/PEBA membrane had a good potential in practical wastewater treatment., Competing Interests: Declaration of competing interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (Copyright © 2024 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.)