8,937 results on '"Climbing"'
Search Results
2. Comparison of 3T and 7T magnetic resonance imaging for direct visualization of finger flexor pulley rupture: an ex-vivo study.
- Author
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Bayer, Thomas, Bächter, Lilly, Lutter, Christoph, Janka, Rolf, Uder, Michael, Schöffel, Völker, Roemer, Frank W., Nagel, Armin M., and Heiss, Rafael
- Subjects
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MAGNETIC resonance imaging , *LIKERT scale , *PULLEYS , *DIAGNOSTIC imaging , *SENSITIVITY & specificity (Statistics) - Abstract
Objective: To compare image quality and diagnostic performance of 3T and 7T magnetic resonance imaging (MRI) for direct depiction of finger flexor pulleys A2, A3 and A4 before and after artificial pulley rupture in an ex-vivo model using anatomic preparation as reference. Materials and Methods: 30 fingers from 10 human cadavers were examined at 3T and 7T before and after being subjected to iatrogenic pulley rupture. MRI protocols were comparable in duration, both lasting less than 22 min. Two experienced radiologists evaluated the MRIs. Image quality was graded according to a 4-point Likert scale. Anatomic preparation was used as gold standard. Results: In comparison, 7T versus 3T had a sensitivity and specificity for the detection of A2, A3 and A4 pulley lesions with 100% vs. 95%, respectively 98% vs. 100%. In the assessment of A3 pulley lesions sensitivity of 7T was superior to 3T MRI (100% vs. 83%), whereas specificity was lower (95% vs. 100%). Image quality assessed before and after iatrogenic rupture was comparable with 2.74 for 7T and 2.61 for 3T. Visualization of the A3 finger flexor pulley before rupture creation was significantly better for 7 T (p < 0.001). Interobserver variability showed substantial agreement at 3T (κ = 0.80) and almost perfect agreement at 7T (κ = 0.90). Conclusion: MRI at 3T allows a comparable diagnostic performance to 7T for direct visualization and characterization of finger flexor pulleys before and after rupture, with superiority of 7T MRI in the visualization of the normal A3 pulley. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
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- 2024
- Full Text
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3. Five weeks of dynamic finger flexor strength training on bouldering performance and climbing-specific strength tests. A randomized controlled trial.
- Author
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Saeterbakken, Atle Hole, Bratland, Erik, Andersen, Vidar, and Stien, Nicolay
- Subjects
RESISTANCE training ,STRENGTH training ,RANDOMIZED controlled trials ,ROCK climbing ,FINGERS - Abstract
The aim of the study was to examine the effects of a 5-week dynamic finger flexor strength training program on bouldering performance and climbing-specific strength tests. Advanced to elite level boulderers (n = 31) were randomized to a dynamic finger strength training group (DFS) or a control group (CON). The DFS training program consisted of 3 weekly sessions (3–5 sets, 4–10 repetitions per session). Both groups continued bouldering training as usual throughout the intervention period. Pre- and post-intervention measures included bouldering performance, maximal dynamic finger strength, isometric finger strength (peak and average force), and rate of force development (RFD). The DFS demonstrated greater improvement in dynamic finger strength (11.5%, 3.9 kg) than the CON (5.3%, 1.7 kg; p = 0.075, ES = 0.90), but there were no differences between the groups in 1RM (p = 0.075, ES = 0.67), bouldering performance (p = 0.39, ES = 0.35), isometric finger strength (p = 0.42–0.56, ES = 0.20–0.22) or RFD (p = 0.30, ES = 0.46). The DFS improved dynamic (p < 0.01, ES = 1.83) and isometric peak and average (p < 0.01, ES = 0.98, and p < 0.01, ES = 0.75, respectively) finger strength, while the CON only increased dynamic finger strength (p < 0.05, ES = 0.58). None of groups improved bouldering performance or RFD (p = 0.07–0.58). In conclusion, 5 weeks of DFS training improving dynamic strength to a greater extent than bouldering alone in addition to improving isometric finger strength among advanced boulderers. Isolated bouldering improved dynamic finger flexor strength, but importantly, increased finger strength (dynamic or isometric) did not improve bouldering performance. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
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4. Experiences and perceptions of motherhood and climbing.
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Ankers, Emily
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POSTFEMINISM ,MOTHERHOOD ,SOCIAL pressure ,SEMI-structured interviews ,RESEARCH methodology - Abstract
This article employs a critical postfeminist lens to examine experiences and perceptions of motherhood and climbing, with a focus on negotiating childcare and risk. Drawing on interview data, I consider gendered societal pressures placed on mothers who participate in climbing. I argue that although climbing is a site that may facilitate agency and resistance to pressures, mothers' experiences of climbing are varied, and women remain constrained by societal expectations. This article contributes towards the growing body of literature considering women's experiences in climbing. Findings on experiences of motherhood and climbing may be transferable or comparable when thinking about experiences of motherhood in other lifestyle activities, particularly those that involve risk. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
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- 2024
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5. Profiling of expert bouldering routesetters.
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Henz, Julian, Sanchez, Xavier, Memmert, Daniel, and Medernach, Jerry Prosper
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MOTOR ability ,CLIMBING gyms ,SOFT skills ,WALL design & construction ,BOULDERS - Abstract
Introduction: Bouldering is an Olympic discipline that takes place on low-height climbing structures known as boulders. Routesetters play a critical role in bouldering; they design and set boulders to be climbed, which must be original, safe to climb and adapted to climbers' levels. Considering the critical role routesetters play to keep the present success and ensure the future development of bouldering, the purpose of this study was to profile expert routesetters by identifying relevant key skills they possess and examining specific strategies they use when designing boulders. Methods: Seventy-eight expert routesetters completed an online survey structured in eight sections that assessed the following: perceptual–cognitive skills; soft skills; motor skills; climbing skills; welfare; safety and difficulty; climbing holds and wall features; and climbing movement diversity and boulder styles. Results: Among fundamental skills experts identified, most relevant to routesetters were possessing a broad climbing movement repertoire, the ability to develop several climbing strategies for one boulder, forecasting of climbing movements, climbing-specific decision-making and creativity, self-reflection, teamwork, dealing with negative feedback, technical skills and general fitness. Furthermore, most relevant specific routesetter skills and strategies appeared to encompass the ability to design boulders that account for climbers' skill levels and safety, to adapt to the constraints of climbing gyms, to make optimal use of climbing wall features and to design versatile climbing movements. Conclusion: The expert routesetters' profile comprises fundamental and specific skills and strategies that enable them to design target-oriented boulders with versatile climbing movements for different levels whilst accounting for climbers' welfare. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
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- 2024
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6. La traite et l’esclavage colonial français dans notre mémoire nationale
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Jean-Marc Ayrault
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universalism ,memory work ,climbing ,Social Sciences - Abstract
This article explores the need for memory work.
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- 2024
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7. A new record of Dinochloa malayana S.Dransf. (Poaceae, Bambusoideae) from central Sumatra, Indonesia, reveals the continuous distribution of Dinochloa in western Malesia
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Muhammad Azli Ritonga, Syamsuardi Syamsuardi, Nurainas Nurainas, Tesri Maideliza, and I Putu Gede P. Damayanto
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Bamboo ,climbing ,disjunct distribution ,Sijunjung ,Biology (General) ,QH301-705.5 - Abstract
We report a new record of Dinochloa malayana S.Dransf. (Poaceae, Bambusoideae) from Sumatra, Indonesia, specifically in Sumpur Kudus, Sijunjung, West Sumatra. This discovery expands the known western range of Dinochloa Buse in Malesia. On the mainland of Sumatra, this genus, represented by D. glabrescens Widjaja, was previously only reported from Lampung in the south. Dinochloa was once thought to have a disjunct distribution in western Malesia, limited to the Malay Peninsula and southern Sumatra. Our new data confirm the continuous distribution of Dinochloa throughout western Malesia.
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- 2024
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8. Sticky feet: a tribological study of climbing shoe rubber.
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Elkington, Robert J., Armitage, Josh L., Khan, Thawhid, and Bryant, Michael G.
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SLIDING friction , *MECHANICAL wear , *HARDNESS testing , *SHOE design , *SURFACE roughness , *STATIC friction , *RUBBER - Abstract
This study examines the tribological properties of climbing shoe rubbers, challenging the common belief in the climbing community that softer rubbers are inherently grippier. This study investigates the mechanical and wear characteristics of climbing shoe rubbers by employing a high-precision modular mechanical testing environment (Bruker UMT TriboLab) and representative granite counter-surfaces. Key parameters, including surface roughness, Shore A hardness, interfacial adhesion, static and dynamic friction coefficients, and material wear patterns, were analyzed. The mechanical properties of each rubber compound were characterized through Shore A hardness testing and ball indentation–retraction tests, measuring indentation force, energy, and adhesive properties. Sliding friction tests, simulating real climbing conditions, were conducted to understand the tribological behavior of each rubber compound under different loads, further analyzing static and dynamic friction coefficients and wear characteristics. The findings of this study indicate that rubber performance is a convolution of several factors, including material hardness, surface roughness, and interfacial adhesion. Contrary to popular belief, softer rubbers did not consistently exhibit superior tribological characteristics. The findings of this study suggest that climbing shoe selection and design should consider a broader range of material characteristics beyond hardness, emphasizing the role of surface roughness and adhesion in determining overall frictional performance. This research offers valuable insights for the climbing community, providing methodologies to benchmark climbing rubber material characteristics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
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- 2024
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9. Promoting Exploration During Learning: Effect of Imposed and Self-Controlled Practice Schedules on Learners' Behavioral Flexibility.
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Hacques, Guillaume, Komar, John, and Seifert, Ludovic
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SCHEDULING , *POSSIBILITY , *RESPECT - Abstract
Purpose: Enriching learners' motor repertoires in a complex pluri-articular task, such as climbing, could help learners' adaptation to various sets of task constraints. Promoting exploration with variable practice conditions is one solution recurrently proposed. However, recent studies have shown that a too elevated exploration-exploitation ratio during practice could impair learning. A proposed solution is to give learners some control over their practice schedule, which appeared to better respect the individual learning dynamic in comparison to the usual experimenter-imposed practice schedule. Thus, the aim of this study is to investigate whether giving learners the possibility of controlling when to confront to new climbing routes would result in greater flexibility in their motor repertoire compared to giving them an imposed schedule of climbing routes or a constant practice condition. Method: Participants were assigned to either a constant practice group (CPG), an imposed-variability group (IVG) or a self-controlled variability group (SVG) to carry out a climbing task. To assess participants' behavioral flexibility, a scanning procedure was conceived by manipulating the route design and the instructions. Results: Participants showed an initial lack of flexibility as they strongly relied on a single coordination pattern. At posttest and retention, the three groups more frequently used a new hand coordination pattern and more often showed coordination patterns associated with high climbing fluency. Results suggest that the individualized rate of exploration in the self-controlled practice condition may have helped the learners improve their flexibility, whereas forcing exploration did not seem more beneficial than constant practice in this complex pluri-articular task. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
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- 2024
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10. Curriculum for mountaineering, climbing and winter sports instructors in Spain. A critical approach according to key stakeholders.
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Sans-Osanz, Joana and Inglés Yuba, Eduard
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MOUNTAINEERING , *WINTER sports , *CURRICULUM , *SPORTS tourism , *STAKEHOLDERS , *QUALITATIVE research , *SPORTS instructors - Abstract
Outdoor physical activities and sports are growing in popularity: number of practitioners and professionals are increasing and number of active sport tourism businesses has multiplied. All these activities have become officialised, have grown into an emerging industry and play a powerful role as an economic driver. Qualified instructors are needed, as well as quality training for these professionals. This study focuses on climbing, mountaineering and winter sports instructor qualifications. Drawing on Bernstein's framework of the pedagogic device and with a particular focus on marketisation of education and professionalisation of sport, the purpose of this research is to explore the following questions: (a) How do stakeholders perceive the current mountaineering, climbing and winter sports curriculum and what are the main lines of improvement of the curriculum? (b) Does the curriculum meet the knowledge required by instructors in their occupations? And (c) What is the logic and awareness underlying the construction of the curriculum? Following a social-constructivist paradigm, in-depth semi-structured interviews and focus groups were carried out, with a sample of 46 key involved stakeholders. The data coding approach and theme development were done both inductively and deductively and with a latent and semantic focus, following thematic analysis. Participants specify clear lines of improvement of qualifications: stakeholders involved in curricular updating, the general structure of qualifications, admission tests, assessment, internships, model of the teacher and also highlighted some training gaps to be resolved due to qualifications breakdown. It is noted that curriculum updating follows a 'top-down' policy demand, that there is a marketisation of the qualifications that is evident in admission tests, assessment and internships. This study provides a critical and in-depth analysis based on the views of a variety of stakeholders that should be taken into consideration for the improvement of the curriculum of climbing, mountaineering and winter sports instructors. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
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11. Reliability, Objectivity, Validity, and Reference Levels of the Austrian Pole Climbing Test (APCT)—A Novel Monitoring Tool for Assessing General Fitness in Children, Adolescents, and Young Adults.
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Jarnig, Gerald, Kerbl, Reinhold, and van Poppel, Mireille N. M.
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BROAD jump ,PHYSICAL fitness ,MOTORSPORTS ,REFERENCE values ,TIME pressure ,YOUNG adults - Abstract
Climbing is an activity involving many major muscle groups and, therefore, it is suitable for assessing general physical fitness. The Austrian pole climbing test (APCT) was developed as a reliable and valid test for the assessment of general fitness levels in children, adolescents, and young adults. In this cross-sectional pilot study, 677 participants (aged 6 to 19 years) were assessed via the APCT. Subsequently, test quality criteria (reliability and objectivity) were assessed, and the test's validity was evaluated through comparisons with other established fitness tests (hand grip strength, standing long jump, and pull- and push-ups). Additionally, age- and gender-specific reference values were generated. The reliability (ICC2.1 = 0.97, 95%CI 0.95 to 0.98) and objectivity (ICC2.1 = 0.99, 95%CI 0.99 to 0.99) of the APCT were found to be excellent. The APCT results correlated strongly with the hand strength per kilogram of body weight (right: r = 0.58; left: r = 0.53), number of pull-ups (with upper grip: r = 0.74; with lower grip: r = 0.69) and standing long jump (r = 0.61); a moderate correlation with the push-up test was observed (r = 0.44). The APCT is reliable, objective, and suitable for children, adolescents, and young adults with an affinity for sports. It offers a novel opportunity to assess fitness without time pressure, considering the anthropometric requirements. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
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- 2024
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12. Five weeks of dynamic finger flexor strength training on bouldering performance and climbing-specific strength tests. A randomized controlled trial
- Author
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Atle Hole Saeterbakken, Erik Bratland, Vidar Andersen, and Nicolay Stien
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performance ,finger flexor strength ,rate of force development ,resistance training ,climbing ,bouldering ,Physiology ,QP1-981 - Abstract
The aim of the study was to examine the effects of a 5-week dynamic finger flexor strength training program on bouldering performance and climbing-specific strength tests. Advanced to elite level boulderers (n = 31) were randomized to a dynamic finger strength training group (DFS) or a control group (CON). The DFS training program consisted of 3 weekly sessions (3–5 sets, 4–10 repetitions per session). Both groups continued bouldering training as usual throughout the intervention period. Pre- and post-intervention measures included bouldering performance, maximal dynamic finger strength, isometric finger strength (peak and average force), and rate of force development (RFD). The DFS demonstrated greater improvement in dynamic finger strength (11.5%, 3.9 kg) than the CON (5.3%, 1.7 kg; p = 0.075, ES = 0.90), but there were no differences between the groups in 1RM (p = 0.075, ES = 0.67), bouldering performance (p = 0.39, ES = 0.35), isometric finger strength (p = 0.42–0.56, ES = 0.20–0.22) or RFD (p = 0.30, ES = 0.46). The DFS improved dynamic (p < 0.01, ES = 1.83) and isometric peak and average (p < 0.01, ES = 0.98, and p < 0.01, ES = 0.75, respectively) finger strength, while the CON only increased dynamic finger strength (p < 0.05, ES = 0.58). None of groups improved bouldering performance or RFD (p = 0.07–0.58). In conclusion, 5 weeks of DFS training improving dynamic strength to a greater extent than bouldering alone in addition to improving isometric finger strength among advanced boulderers. Isolated bouldering improved dynamic finger flexor strength, but importantly, increased finger strength (dynamic or isometric) did not improve bouldering performance.
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- 2024
- Full Text
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13. Mountains and Mountaineering
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Moseley, Greg, Sarmiento, Fausto O, Series Editor, Sarmiento, Fausto O., editor, and Gunya, Alexey, editor
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- 2024
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14. A two-layer optimization strategy for electric vehicles participating in microgrid scheduling considering dynamic electricity prices
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XIA Xin, ZHONG Hao, ZHANG Lei, SHU Dong, WU Fan, and DONG Xuewei
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electric vehicle (ev) ,microgrid ,dynamic electricity price ,two-layer optimization ,fast/slow charging load ,climbing ,Applications of electric power ,TK4001-4102 - Abstract
The variation of electric vehicle (EV) charging load is constrained by the climbing performance of microgrids. Therefore, this paper considers the climbing characteristics of microgrid units and proposes a two-layer optimization strategy for EVs participating in microgrid scheduling considering dynamic electricity prices. The upper layer is the EV load model. The fast/slow charging characteristics of different types of EVs are analyzed and the guidance of microgrid electricity price on EV charging demand is considered, thereby establishing the EV load model with the maximum user satisfaction as the target. The lower layer is a multi-microgrid operation model. The dynamic electricity price strategy is formulated according to the net load of the microgrid, and the dynamic electricity price of each region is optimized considering the consumption of new energy of the microgrid by EV charging and the demand for power climbing. The multi-microgrid regional operation model is established with the objective of minimizing the net load fluctuation and operating cost of the microgrid. Finally, an example analysis of the microgrid and EV charging demand in an urban area is conducted to verify the results. The results show that compared with the fixed electricity price and the peak and valley time-of-use price, the proposed method can realize the orderly charging of EV loads in the microgrid area and smooth the net load fluctuation. Also, the proposed method can effectively reduce the influence of charging behavior on the safe and economic operation of the microgrid.
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- 2024
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15. Social media behaviors and body type ideals predict weight loss and food tracking behaviors among recreational climbers.
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Slagel, Nicholas, Kage, Katie, and Wichern, Sarah
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MOUNTAINEERING ,SOCIAL media ,WEIGHT loss ,MOUNTAINEERS ,ANXIETY - Abstract
Introduction: Elite and recreational climbers may be at risk for disordered eating, low energy availability (LEA), and increased injury as a result. Social media use among athlete and non-athletes can lead to body image disturbances resulting in unhealthy weight loss practices exacerbating LEA and injury risk. Therefore, the objective of this study was to examine relationships between social comparative behaviors on social media, body type ideals and outcomes, and health behaviors among adult recreational climbers. Methods: Participants (n = 324) were adult recreational climbers from the U.S. (29.30 ± 9.99 years old and 50% female). Participants answered a 66-item questionnaire comprised of demographics, climbing characteristics, social media behaviors, body type ideals, training and nutrition-seeking behaviors, and weight and food tracking behaviors. Results: Most participants (78.7%) indicated strength-to-weight ratio was important for climbing performance. Many participants perceived they could perform better at rock climbing if their body proportions were different (59.3%). These body type ideals were found to be significant predictors of performing weight loss and food-tracking behaviors (all p < 0.001). Higher amounts of social comparative behaviors on social media and social physique anxiety independently and significantly predicted attempting weight loss to improve climbing ability (p < 0.001 and p = 0.001 respectively). Those who followed climbing influencers, used Instagram frequently for training and nutrition information, perceived they could perform better at rock climbing if their body proportions were different, or were female and college-aged had significantly higher mean social comparative behavior scores (all p < 0.01). Discussion: This study expands on prior work with elite climbers by providing a possible explanation for how climbing-related body type ideals and certain social media behaviors can perpetuate negative body image and compensatory behaviors among a general climbing population. Because unhealthy weight management behaviors can lead to injury and health disturbances, broad education programming and social media campaigns should be developed to shift body ideals and nutrition behaviors among recreational climbers. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
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- 2024
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16. How to explore a new environment: exploratory tactics of the black rat (Rattus rattus).
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Štolhoferová, Iveta, Rudolfová, Veronika, Skalíková, Hana, Vobrubová, Barbora, and Frynta, Daniel
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RATTUS rattus , *ORDERLINESS , *STATISTICAL reliability , *EXPLORERS , *ARENAS , *RATS - Abstract
The black rat (Rattus rattus) is a unique model for studying exploratory tactics due to its enormous colonizing potential. Considerable behavioral variability and consistent interindividual differences might help populations inhabit new environments and persist there even under intense pressure. Additionally, the affinity of the black rat for climbing might be another advantage, widening their potential niche. In this study, we describe the exploratory tactics of the black rats when introduced to a novel environment. In the first experiment, we tested 12 rats and calculated repeatability of their behaviors across 12 sessions of an enriched open-field test. We concluded that climbing is a highly repeatable behavior that serves as an important source of interindividual variability. In the second experiment, we tested 24 black rats in a unique L-shaped arena. Each rat was tested twice. We found that the majority of rats distributed their activity evenly, exploring each part of the apparatus for a similar amount of time, thus maximizing their chances of finding resources. Nevertheless, these "even" explorers still greatly differed in their level of activity, orderliness and affinity for climbing, generating large variability. In contrast, the minority of rats concentrated their activity only on a section of the new environment and were therefore characterized as selective explorers. Overall, we concluded that a combination of such exploratory tactics as well as a bias for even explorers enables black rats to quickly colonize new environments and persist there even under unfavorable conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
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17. Ultrasound features of a pulley strain in a sport climber: a discussion based on a case report.
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Fontes, Tomás, Sebastião, Mariana, and Saraiva, Fernando
- Abstract
Ruptures of the annular pulleys of the finger flexor tendons are not common in the general population. In sport climbing, these structures can be abnormally stressed, mainly because of the so-called crimped position, an extreme flexion of the proximal interphalangeal joint, levering an abnormal tension by flexor tendons. Complete pulley tears manifest with explicit pain and an inability, but strains or minor tears might only be perceived by individuals like professional climbers, since they can bring total disability to crucial grip positions. Complete tears of one or more pulleys have already been characterized by ultrasound and magnetic resonance, but no imaging features were described for strains or smaller partial tears. We describe the case of a climber with symptoms of an A2-pulley injury, in whom ultrasound imaging revealed reversible features of fusiform thickening and hypoechogenicity, which resemble the strains that we find in similar structures like tendons and other ligaments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
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- 2024
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18. Pregled najpogostejših poškodb pri športnem plezanju s poudarkom na mehanizmih nastanka.
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Obal, Iza, Petrle, Brina, and Kozinc, Žiga
- Abstract
Copyright of Revija Šport is the property of Sport: Revija Za Teoreticna in Praticna Vprasanja Sporta and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)
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- 2024
19. Land management policy tools and institutionally contingent types of goods: understanding rock climbers' resistance to and desire for public lands fees and quotas.
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Carter, David P. and Katz, Juniper
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This paper examines how users respond to 'public lands' of different underlying good characteristics, as shaped by various management policy tools. Using a survey experiment that varies the imposition of fees and quotas in hypothetical scenarios, we analyze U.S. rock climbers' resistance or receptiveness to visiting public lands climbing destinations. Experimental results show that participants are most resistant to management tools that impose financial burdens without promising benefits in return. User receptiveness increases, however, when exclusive public land benefits can be secured. We further show that land management policy tool resistance/receptiveness is conditioned by household income and desire for solitude in recreation. The study's primary contribution is illustrating the theoretical utility of accounting for institutionally contingent shifts in resource good types, while also raising concerns regarding the exclusionary potential of land management policies, particularly in regards to lower-income users. Our study offers guidance for land managers and policymakers aiming to balance conservation, recreational access, and use by shedding light on the interplay between management policies, user characteristics, and types of goods. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
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- 2024
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20. 计及动态电价的电动汽车参与微电网调度双层优化策略.
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夏鑫, 钟浩, 张磊, 舒栋, 吴凡, and 董雪薇
- Abstract
Copyright of Electric Power Engineering Technology is the property of Editorial Department of Electric Power Engineering Technology and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)
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- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
21. Motion Analysis of the Wrist and Finger Joints in Sport Climbing.
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Fischer, Gabriella, Schneeberger, Micha, Petter, Stefan Andreas, Scheibler, Anne-Gita, Wolf, Peter, Calcagni, Maurizio, Schweizer, Andreas, and Reissner, Lisa
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FINGER joint , *WRIST joint , *FLEXOR tendons , *MOTION analysis , *JOINTS (Anatomy) , *INJURY risk factors , *MOTION capture (Human mechanics) - Abstract
Climbing is a fast-growing sport, with one of the most common injuries being a rupture of the finger flexor tendon pulley. The strain on pulleys increases as finger joints flex. However, to our knowledge, no study has conducted a kinematic analysis of climbers' fingers. Thus, this study aimed to examine finger kinematics during typical climbing tasks. Eleven elite climbers performed a sequence of four climbing moves, which were recorded by an optical motion capture system. Participants used crimp, half-crimp, and open-hand grips for three trials each, with the fourth condition involving campusing using any grip except crimp. Mean proximal interphalangeal joint (PIP) flexion during the holding phase was 87° (SD 12°), 70° (14°) and 39° (27°) for the crimp, half-crimp and open-hand grip, respectively. Hence, inter-individual PIP flexion ranges overlap between different gripping conditions. Two different movement patterns emerged in the open-hand grip, possibly influenced by the use of the little finger, leading to varying degrees of flexion in the middle and ring fingers. Avoiding little finger usage in the open-hand grip may reduce load during pulley rupture rehabilitation. The implications of PIP joint angle variability on individual pulley injury risk or prevention warrant further investigation. Motion capture proved effective for understanding finger kinematics during climbing and could guide future studies on pulley injury risk factors. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
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- 2024
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22. Étudier une innovation en cours de diffusion : le parcours de recherche d'un acteur embarqué dans les réseaux des handi-escalades.
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LHOPITAL, Hugues
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SOCIAL innovation ,PROFESSIONAL relationships ,PEOPLE with disabilities ,RESEARCH personnel ,PRACTICE (Sports) ,SOCIAL processes ,LOGBOOKS - Abstract
Copyright of Society & Leisure / Loisir & Société is the property of Taylor & Francis Ltd and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)
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- 2024
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- View/download PDF
23. PREVALENCE OF ORTHOREXIA NERVOSA IN A SAMPLE OF ROCK AND SPORT CLIMBERS.
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Sas-Nowosielski, Krzysztof and Gutek, Mateusz
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ORTHOREXIA nervosa ,MOUNTAINEERS ,ATHLETES' health ,DISEASE prevalence ,COMMUNITY development - Abstract
Orthorexia nervosa (ON) is a disorder characterized by obsessive behavior towards healthy eating. Some groups present a higher prevalence of ON and athletes seem to be a population at risk. The aim of this study was to determine the prevalence of ON in the rock and sport climbing community. Düsseldorf Orthorexia Scale (PL-DOS) was used to assess ON. The study involved 236 climbers (including 159 men and 77 women, 67.4 and 32.6%, respectively), with an average age of 34.7 ±9.2 years. The group was divided into groups according to criteria such as the preferred type and style of climbing, participation in climbing competitions or the volume of training undertaken. Orthorexia was diagnosed in 12.7% (n = 30) of climbers, with a mean score of PL-DOS of 32.8 ±2.4 with a 95% confidence interval ranging from 31.9 to 33.7. Another 25% of the respondents were diagnosed with ON risk (mean ±SD 26.8 ±1.5, 95% CI 36.4–27.2). It was not found that the adopted stratification variables significantly differentiated the groups distinguished on their basis. The only exceptions were age and weekly training frequency. However, the effect sizes were small in both cases. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
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- 2024
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24. Cracks in the Climb: Health Problems Faced in Bouldering
- Author
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Michał Szymchel, Filip Grzegorzak, Marlena Cąkała, Aleksandra Zajkowska-Sierpniak, Magdalena Kozioł, and Kamila Podgórniak
- Subjects
climbing ,bouldering ,indoor climbing ,sports injury ,traumatic injury ,overuse injury ,Sports ,GV557-1198.995 ,Sports medicine ,RC1200-1245 - Abstract
Bouldering is a distinctive discipline within the broader realm of climbing sports, characterized by its dynamic nature and the absence of ropes, which leads to a higher frequency of falls. This climbing style has seen a surge in global popularity, with an increasing number of indoor bouldering facilities emerging worldwide. Bouldering, regarded by some authors as parkour adapted to vertical terrain, involves more dynamic movements than other climbing disciplines. This contributes to a considerable risk of overuse injuries in specific areas of the upper limbs and traumatic injuries in the lower limbs. Furthermore, bouldering, like other climbing disciplines, presents a risk of nail damage and subsequent fungal infections. In addition to examining injury risks, this review also touches on the issue of airborne chalk dust exposure, a well-documented concern in enclosed spaces during indoor bouldering. Our study aims to consolidate the available information, highlighting the potential health hazards of indoor bouldering, raising awareness of these risks, and underscoring the need for further research to better understand and mitigate these dangers.
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- 2024
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25. Escape rooms: behavioural response of two invasive crayfish species under water decline scenarios
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Daniela Ghia, Gianluca Fea, Fabio Ercoli, and Roberto Sacchi
- Subjects
dispersal behaviour ,overland movement ,climate warming ,non-native species ,climbing ,Geography. Anthropology. Recreation ,Physical geography ,GB3-5030 ,Environmental sciences ,GE1-350 - Abstract
Climate change and invasive alien species pose a significant threat to biodiversity and the survival of native species. This study considered the impact of drought conditions on the escape behaviour through terrestrial dispersal ability of two invasive freshwater crayfish species, the red swamp crayfish (Procambarus clarkii) and signal crayfish (Pacifastacus leniusculus). Using an experimental design simulating drought conditions and Mediterranean summer temperatures, we tested the hypothesis that P. clarkii exhibits a greater tendency to terrestrial migration and a higher land-walking speed than the P. leniusculus. The results indicated that both species demonstrated strong escape behaviour, with P. clarkii showing escape success higher than P. leniusculus, and increasing with decreasing mean night temperature and crayfish weight. Although drought conditions did not trigger escape, invasive species showed increased resistance and the ability to move to more favourable environments, suggesting that drought is not an effective geographic barrier against the spread of these species. These results underline the importance of considering invasive species' ability to escape and climb as part of management and control strategies.
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- 2024
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26. Corrigendum: Nutrition knowledge, weight loss practices, and supplement use in senior competition climbers
- Author
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Edward Gibson-Smith, Ryan Storey, Marisa Michael, and Mayur Ranchordas
- Subjects
climbing ,nutrition ,bouldering ,sport climbing ,weight loss ,competition ,Nutrition. Foods and food supply ,TX341-641 - Published
- 2024
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- View/download PDF
27. A Husserlian contribution: concerning intentional movement and understanding in sporting activities.
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Heath, Freja Balslev and Højbjerre Larsen, Signe
- Subjects
- *
PHYSICAL activity , *ATHLETIC fields , *SPORTS , *PHENOMENOLOGY , *MENTAL representation - Abstract
This article contributes to an ongoing discussion within sports philosophy concerning how to understand intentional movement in sporting activities. The operations of 'representation intentionality', 'motor intentionality' and 'muscular intentionality' play an increasing role in the attempt to nuance the relation between mind, body and world involved in physical activities. While most scholars tend to reduce one aspect to the other, Breivik has suggested that we can gain a more integrated picture combining the different forms of intentionality as different layers of understanding in action. Though different perspectives of intentionality certainly illuminate different aspects of actions, we believe the ontological implications such an eclectic model entails exceeds the potential benefits. In this article we present a critical evaluation of the exact meaning and exploratory scope of these perspectives by entering into a dialogue with Breivik's main sources, Rizzolatti, Merleau-Ponty and Searle. We argue that we can achieve a more consistent theory by reconceptualizing the different 'layers of intentionality' as different 'levels of embodiment' within a Husserlian frame of hermeneutic phenomenology. Finally, we empathize Husserl's potential contribution to the field of sports philosophy illustrated through sporting examples with a focus on climbing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2022
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28. Embodied planning in climbing: how pre-planning informs motor execution.
- Author
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Campo, Vicente Luis-del, Martín, Jesús Morenas, Musculus, Lisa, and Raab, Markus
- Subjects
VISUAL perception ,STAIR climbing ,CLIMBING gyms ,GAZE - Abstract
Introduction: The aim of the study is to address embodied planning in climbing. Embodied planning was conceptualized as the interaction between perceptualcognitive pre-planning and motor execution. Methods: In an experimental study, 18 climbers were asked to pre-plan a climbing route and to perform the route afterward. During pre-planning, the visual search pattern of climbers was captured using a portable eye tracker. After previewing, they were invited to climb the wall. Results: Results revealed that holds looked at during pre-planning were used twice as much during route execution than those not looked at. The duration of fixations was longer for holds used than those not used during route execution. The experience of climbers (training years) correlated with visual strategies and climbing performance, such that experienced participants climbed faster and fixated at the holds not used for a shorter time. Discussion: The visual behaviors of climbers were influenced by their past sensorimotor experiences during route previewing, impacting subsequent climbing performance. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
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- 2024
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29. Shape variation in the talus and medial cuneiform of chimpanzees and bonobos.
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Friesen, Sarah E., Knigge, Ryan P., Jashashvili, Tea, Harcourt‐Smith, William E. H., Schoeninger, Margaret J., and Tocheri, Matthew W.
- Abstract
Objectives: Bonobos and chimpanzees do not differ from one another in overall frequencies of arboreality versus terrestriality as much as once thought. Thus, at a broad level, one would predict that there is little difference in foot morphology among Pan taxa. However, behavioral data suggest that bonobos more often use smaller diameter substrates (<10 cm) when climbing whereas western chimpanzees frequently climb larger diameter (>15 cm) substrates. This study tests the hypothesis that if Pan medial cuneiform and talus morphology reflects these substrate preferences, then the morphology of these bones should favor hallucial grasping in bonobos and an inverted foot set in western chimpanzees. Materials and Methods: Three‐dimensional geometric morphometric (3DGM) methods were used to explore shape variation in 126 talus and 127 medial cuneiform 3D surface models acquired from 108 chimpanzees (24 western, four Nigeria‐Cameroon, 33 central, 32 eastern, and 15 captive unknowns) and 22 bonobos Results: The shapes of the talus and medial cuneiform in Pan covary as a functional unit emphasizing hallucial grasping with a less inverted foot set in bonobos and a more inverted foot set with a less abducted hallucial set in western chimpanzees. Other chimpanzee subspecies fall between these two extremes. Discussion: Bonobo and western chimpanzee medial cuneiform and talus shapes are consistent with their differing preferences for using smaller and larger diameter substrates, respectively, when vertically climbing. These results suggest that even among closely related taxa, foot, hand, and other postcranial anatomy may be fine‐tuned for specific locomotor behaviors or preferences. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
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- 2024
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30. Digitális adatok vizsgálata a falmászásban - Egy olimpiai sportág elemzése.
- Author
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Zsolt, Bartha, Pongrác, Ács, Miklós, Stocker, and Imre, Dobos
- Abstract
Digital technology is unlocking unprecedented growth opportunities in the sports industry, offering the chance to bring competitors and fans closer to the world of sport through innovative and personalised experiences. The sporting landscape is undergoing a particularly rapid and bold transformation through digital technology, and the rise of smartphones and tablets can contribute to the evolution of sport. However, to fully exploit the potential, sports organisations, sports managers and sports professionals will need a digital switchover. Digital analytics will enable a better understanding of sports services, attracting fans, engaging sponsors, sharing information and developing business models. Our research investigates the characteristics of the development of a new Olympic sport in the field of wall climbing among young adults, an innovation that will move sport services in a new direction and on a new footing by developing an innovative training methodology. New performance indicators such as climbing speed and research on active-passive climbing time will contribute to a more efficient and faster development path for athletes. Special Clift grip sensors, which can be installed under the artificial grips on the back of the wall, can measure both the time and length of the grip, as well as distinguish the load of the grip from the touch. The results of the research put the Clift wall climbing service at the forefront of sports development worldwide. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
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- 2024
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31. Selective advantage of climbers in spatial navigation tasks.
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Ruggeri, Azzurra, Stanciu, Oana, and Völter, Christoph
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STAIR climbing ,COGNITIVE ability ,MAZE tests ,MAZE puzzles - Abstract
Many activities, from cooking a meal to climbing, entail – or at least benefit from – the planning of a number of actions before the first action can be executed. In this paper we explored the hypothesis that experienced climbers, because of their extensive training in visualising and mentally simulating the entire sequence of moves required to complete a route before they start climbing, may be more competent in planning ahead. We tested this hypothesis in two maze spatial-navigation tasks, arguably closer to the climbers' embodied-planning experience, and one question-asking task, to further test the generalisability of their hypothesised advantage over non-climbers. We found that climbers were as accurate, but much faster than non-climbers at finding the correct path out of a maze, but did not outperform non-climbers in identifying the most informative question to ask. We discuss the role of different cognitive abilities and strategies that might underpin the climbers' superior maze-navigation performance. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
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- 2024
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32. Pull-Up Performance Is Affected Differently by the Muscle Contraction Regimens Practiced during Training among Climbers.
- Author
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Vigouroux, Laurent and Devise, Marine
- Subjects
- *
MUSCLE contraction , *BODY weight - Abstract
Sport climbing performance is highly related to upper limb strength and endurance. Although finger-specific methods are widely analyzed in the literature, no study has yet quantified the effects of arm-specific training. This study aims to compare the effects of three types of training involving different muscle contraction regimens on climbers' pull-up capabilities. Thirty advanced to high-elite climbers were randomly divided into four groups: eccentric (ECC; n = 8), isometric (ISO; n = 7), plyometric (PLYO; n = 6), and no specific training (CTRL; n = 9), and they participated in a 5-week training, twice a week, focusing on pull-ups on hangboard. Pre- and post-training assessments were conducted using a force-sensing hangboard, analyzing force, velocity, power, and muscle work during three pull-up exercises: pull-ups at body weight under different conditions, incremental weighted pull-ups, and an exhaustion test. The CTRL group showed no change. Maximum strength improved in all three training groups (from +2.2 ± 3.6% to +5.0 ± 2.4%; p < 0.001); velocity variables enhanced in the ECC and PLYO groups (from +5.7 ± 7.4 to +28.7 ± 42%; p < 0.05), resulting in greater power; amplitude increased in the ECC group; and muscle work increased in the PLYO group (+21.9 ± 16.6%; p = 0.015). A 5-week training period effectively enhanced arm performance, but outcomes were influenced by the chosen muscle contraction regimens and initial individual characteristics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
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- 2024
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33. Comparison of finger flexion strength and muscular recovery of male lead sport climbers across climbing classes.
- Author
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Son, Somang, Seo, Yongsuk, Son, Jungjun, Yun, Somi, and Lee, Dae Taek
- Abstract
The purpose of this study was to compare finger flexor strength (FS), finger flexor muscle recovery (FR), and forearm circumference (FC) across three different climbing classes in male lead sport climbers. A total of 37 male lead sport climbers were classified into low (LC), intermediate (IC), and advanced classes (AC) categories according to the International Rock Climbing Research Association (IRCRA) Scale. All participants measured FS three times for both open grip (OG) and crimp grip (CG). Following FS measurement, the FR was observed immediately after the all-out training. The FC was measured twice using an inelastic tape. The FS differed significantly across climbing classes for both grip styles and hands, regardless of dominant hand, with the higher classes showing greater FS (all, p ≤ 0.001). FR was significantly higher in AC compared to IC and LC at 5 min (all, p ≤ 0.001), 10 min (all, p ≤ 0.005) and 15 min (all, p ≤ 0.005). The FC showed significant differences with climbing classes for both forearms. Climbing classes are associated with differences in FS, with higher class corresponding to greater FS. Similarly, climbing classes are linked to FR and FC, with higher classes being associated with faster recovery and larger FC. • Advanced class climbers have stronger finger flexor strength. • Recovery time was shortest in advanced class climbers, followed by intermediate and low-class climbers. • A positive correlation was found between climbing classes and forearm circumference. • Finger flexor strength could serve as a reliable predictor for climbing classes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
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- 2024
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34. Development of sports tourism on the territory of Kazakhstan for the development of a healthy lifestyle among the younger generation on the example of rock climbing.
- Author
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Batyrbekov, Nurzhan, Zakiryanov, Baurzhan, Ageleuova, Aigul, Kadyrbekova, Dinara, and Shalabayeva, Laura
- Subjects
SPORTS tourism ,ROCK climbing ,DEVELOPING countries ,PHYSICAL training & conditioning ,PHYSICAL fitness ,DEVELOPED countries ,FOLLOWERSHIP ,STUDENT activities ,SPORTS participation - Abstract
Copyright of Retos: Nuevas Perspectivas de Educación Física, Deporte y Recreación is the property of Federacion Espanola de Asociaciones de Docentes de Educacion Fisica and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)
- Published
- 2024
35. Social media behaviors and body type ideals predict weight loss and food tracking behaviors among recreational climbers
- Author
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Nicholas Slagel, Katie Kage, and Sarah Wichern
- Subjects
climbing ,body image ,weight loss ,social comparison ,social media ,Sports ,GV557-1198.995 - Abstract
IntroductionElite and recreational climbers may be at risk for disordered eating, low energy availability (LEA), and increased injury as a result. Social media use among athlete and non-athletes can lead to body image disturbances resulting in unhealthy weight loss practices exacerbating LEA and injury risk. Therefore, the objective of this study was to examine relationships between social comparative behaviors on social media, body type ideals and outcomes, and health behaviors among adult recreational climbers.MethodsParticipants (n = 324) were adult recreational climbers from the U.S. (29.30 ± 9.99 years old and 50% female). Participants answered a 66-item questionnaire comprised of demographics, climbing characteristics, social media behaviors, body type ideals, training and nutrition-seeking behaviors, and weight and food tracking behaviors.ResultsMost participants (78.7%) indicated strength-to-weight ratio was important for climbing performance. Many participants perceived they could perform better at rock climbing if their body proportions were different (59.3%). These body type ideals were found to be significant predictors of performing weight loss and food-tracking behaviors (all p
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- 2024
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36. The influence of sport climbing on depressive disorders
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Sara Rosołowska-Żak, Sambura Sambura, Patrycja Paschke, Igor Miczek, Julia Pałuchowska, and Anna Szymkowicz
- Subjects
Depression ,mental disorders ,physical activity ,climbing ,bouldering ,emotion regulation ,Sports ,GV557-1198.995 ,Sports medicine ,RC1200-1245 - Abstract
Introduction: According to the World Health Organization (WHO), depression is the most common mental disorder, affecting a significant percentage of the adult population. The disease is associated with many negative health consequences and is one of the leading causes of disability and inability to work worldwide. Sports climbing can be a great method, complementary to psychotherapy, used to reduce the symptoms of depressive disorders. Aim of the study: The aim of our work is to review and summarize the most interesting conclusions from research on the impact of climbing as a complementary form of treatment for depressive disorders. Material and methods: We conducted a review of scientific publications published in the years 2004-2024 in English and Polish in the PubMed and Google Scholar databases. We used keywords such as "depression" and "sport climbing". Conclusions: Research shows that sport climbing can alleviate depressive symptoms, have a positive impact on emotion regulation and lead to changes in brain functioning.
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- 2024
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- View/download PDF
37. Could generative artificial intelligence replace fieldwork in pain research?
- Author
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Bojic Suzana, Radovanovic Nemanja, Radovic Milica, and Stamenkovic Dusica
- Subjects
acute pain ,artificial intelligence ,climbing ,generative pretrained transformer ,Special situations and conditions ,RC952-1245 ,Medicine (General) ,R5-920 - Abstract
Generative artificial intelligence (AI) models offer potential assistance in pain research data acquisition, yet concerns persist regarding data accuracy and reliability. In a comparative study, we evaluated open generative AI models’ capacity to acquire data on acute pain in rock climbers comparable to field research.
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- 2024
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- View/download PDF
38. Application of 3D printing technology to the components subjected to significant mechanical loads, using the example of a prosthetic climbing foot prototype
- Author
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Kamil Warchoł, Monika Szuba, Anna Kopeć, Adam Martowicz, and Jakub Bryła
- Subjects
mechanical engineering ,additive manufacturing ,3D printing ,prosthetic foot ,prosthesis ,climbing ,Technology - Abstract
The paper describes the results of a study aimed at identifying the mechanical parameters of a prosthetic foot designed for wall climbing. The prosthesis was manufactured with an additive method using FDM/MEX [Fused Deposition Modelling/ Material Extrusion] technology. At the initial stage of the research, uniaxial tensile and three-point bending tests were carried out on specimens made of six different materials to select a material for the production of the prosthetic component. Based on the results, a functional prosthetic foot prototype was designed and fabricated from two selected polymers. The final step of the study was to subject the prosthesis to a cyclic bending test on a dynamic testing machine equipped with a newly-designed adapter. The functionality of the fabricated component was also confirmed on a climbing wall, under controlled conditions of use. Based on the tests and analysis conducted, it was concluded that the created prosthesis fulfills its purpose and provides more comfort during climbing than an everyday prosthesis, while keeping the production cost low. Keywords: mechanical engineering, additive manufacturing, 3D printing, prosthetic foot, prosthesis, climbing
- Published
- 2023
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39. History of participation of the Siberian Federal University in the European Universities Games
- Author
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Kolmakov, Vladimir I., Bliznevsky, Alexander Yu., and Zheleznov, Nikolay N.
- Subjects
european universities games ,siberian federal university ,university sport ,futsal ,rugby-7 ,climbing ,Education (General) ,L7-991 ,Special aspects of education ,LC8-6691 ,Theory and practice of education ,LB5-3640 - Abstract
The article is devoted to the historical and theoretical analysis of the participation of students of the Siberian Federal University (SFU) in the sports program of the European University Games (EUG) from 2012 to 2018. The sports, social results of the performance of the SFU teams at the EUG are given. The positive cumulative effect of the participation of student teams in international competitions for individual universities is shown.
- Published
- 2023
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- View/download PDF
40. Reliability, Objectivity, Validity, and Reference Levels of the Austrian Pole Climbing Test (APCT)—A Novel Monitoring Tool for Assessing General Fitness in Children, Adolescents, and Young Adults
- Author
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Gerald Jarnig, Reinhold Kerbl, and Mireille N. M. van Poppel
- Subjects
sport motor test ,strength endurance ,reference value ,fitness monitoring ,climbing ,talent scouting ,Sports ,GV557-1198.995 - Abstract
Climbing is an activity involving many major muscle groups and, therefore, it is suitable for assessing general physical fitness. The Austrian pole climbing test (APCT) was developed as a reliable and valid test for the assessment of general fitness levels in children, adolescents, and young adults. In this cross-sectional pilot study, 677 participants (aged 6 to 19 years) were assessed via the APCT. Subsequently, test quality criteria (reliability and objectivity) were assessed, and the test’s validity was evaluated through comparisons with other established fitness tests (hand grip strength, standing long jump, and pull- and push-ups). Additionally, age- and gender-specific reference values were generated. The reliability (ICC2.1 = 0.97, 95%CI 0.95 to 0.98) and objectivity (ICC2.1 = 0.99, 95%CI 0.99 to 0.99) of the APCT were found to be excellent. The APCT results correlated strongly with the hand strength per kilogram of body weight (right: r = 0.58; left: r = 0.53), number of pull-ups (with upper grip: r = 0.74; with lower grip: r = 0.69) and standing long jump (r = 0.61); a moderate correlation with the push-up test was observed (r = 0.44). The APCT is reliable, objective, and suitable for children, adolescents, and young adults with an affinity for sports. It offers a novel opportunity to assess fitness without time pressure, considering the anthropometric requirements.
- Published
- 2024
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41. Research on AGV Chassis Structural Renovation Based on Uphill and Downhill Scenarios
- Author
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Xia, Nan, Liang, Xinxin, Li, Wenliang, Chaari, Fakher, Series Editor, Gherardini, Francesco, Series Editor, Ivanov, Vitalii, Series Editor, Haddar, Mohamed, Series Editor, Cavas-Martínez, Francisco, Editorial Board Member, di Mare, Francesca, Editorial Board Member, Kwon, Young W., Editorial Board Member, Trojanowska, Justyna, Editorial Board Member, Xu, Jinyang, Editorial Board Member, and Mo, John P.T., editor
- Published
- 2023
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- View/download PDF
42. Editorial: Injuries, injury prevention and training in climbing
- Author
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Atle Hole Saeterbakken, Volker Rainer Schöffl, Andreas Schweizer, and Gudmund Grønhaug
- Subjects
climbing ,sports climbing ,climbing injuries ,injury prevention ,chronic injuries ,sports medicine ,Sports ,GV557-1198.995 - Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
43. Embodied planning in climbing: how pre-planning informs motor execution
- Author
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Vicente Luis-del Campo, Jesús Morenas Martín, Lisa Musculus, and Markus Raab
- Subjects
embodied cognition ,expertise ,eye-tracking ,visual behavior ,movement ,climbing ,Psychology ,BF1-990 - Abstract
IntroductionThe aim of the study is to address embodied planning in climbing. Embodied planning was conceptualized as the interaction between perceptual-cognitive pre-planning and motor execution.MethodsIn an experimental study, 18 climbers were asked to pre-plan a climbing route and to perform the route afterward. During pre-planning, the visual search pattern of climbers was captured using a portable eye tracker. After previewing, they were invited to climb the wall.ResultsResults revealed that holds looked at during pre-planning were used twice as much during route execution than those not looked at. The duration of fixations was longer for holds used than those not used during route execution. The experience of climbers (training years) correlated with visual strategies and climbing performance, such that experienced participants climbed faster and fixated at the holds not used for a shorter time.DiscussionThe visual behaviors of climbers were influenced by their past sensorimotor experiences during route previewing, impacting subsequent climbing performance.
- Published
- 2024
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
44. Prevalence of Orthorexia Nervosa in a Sample of Rock and Sport Climbers
- Author
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Krzysztof Sas-Nowosielski and Mateusz Gutek
- Subjects
orthorexia nervosa ,climbing ,prevalence ,Sports ,GV557-1198.995 ,Sports medicine ,RC1200-1245 ,Physiology ,QP1-981 - Abstract
Orthorexia nervosa (ON) is a disorder characterized by obsessive behavior towards healthy eating. Some groups present a higher prevalence of ON and athletes seems to be a population at risk. The aim of this study was to determine the prevalence of ON in the rock and sport climbing community. population using two different questionnaires. Düsseldorf Orthorexia Scale (PL-DOS) was used to assess ON. The study involved 236 climbers (including 159 men and 77 women, 67.4 and 32.6%, respectively), with an average age of 34.7±9.2 years. The group was divided into groups according to criteria such as the preferred type and style of climbing, participation in climbing competitions or the volume of training undertaken. Orthorexia was diagnosed in 12.7% (n=30) of climbers, with a mean score of PL-DOS of 32.8±2.4 with a 95% confidence interval ranging from 31.9 to 33.7. Another 25% of the respondents were diagnosed with ON risk (mean±SD 26.8±1.5, 95% CI 36.4-27.2). It was not found that the adopted stratification variables significantly differentiated the groups distinguished on their basis. The only exceptions were age and weekly training frequency. However, the effect sizes were small in both cases.
- Published
- 2024
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- View/download PDF
45. Nutrition knowledge, weight loss practices, and supplement use in senior competition climbers
- Author
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Edward Gibson-Smith, Ryan Storey, Marisa Michael, and Mayur Ranchordas
- Subjects
climbing ,nutrition ,bouldering ,sport climbing ,weight loss ,competition ,Nutrition. Foods and food supply ,TX341-641 - Abstract
IntroductionSport climbing has gained increased scientific attention, including studies investigating the dietary habits and nutritional requirements of climbers; however, significant gaps in the literature remain. An assessment of nutritional knowledge, weight loss for competition, and supplement use has not been previously reported in senior competition climbing athletes.MethodsFifty climbers (26 male, 24 female; BMI 21.6 ± 1.9; 23.7 ± 5.2 years) participated in the study. Participants answered a 72-item questionnaire, comprised of demographic data and three main sections to assess general and sports nutrition knowledge, weight loss strategies, and supplement use.ResultsThe mean nutrition knowledge score was ‘average’, with considerable individual variation (53.5 ± 11.1 %). There were no significant sex differences in the general (GNK) or sport (SNK) nutrition knowledge scores, or effect of age. Significantly higher knowledge was demonstrated by national vs. international athletes for the GNK scores (11.09 ± 1.58 vs. 9.58 ± 1.75; p = 0.028). Participants scored well in questions concerning protein, carbohydrates, alcohol, and supplements, and conversely, performed poorly in hydration and micronutrient related questions. Less than one-fifth of respondents had access to a dietitian. Forty-six percent of males and 38% of female climbers reported intentional weight loss for competition on at least one occasion. Of those, ~76% reported utilizing concerning practices, including methods that conform with disordered eating and/or eating disorders, dehydration, vomiting, and misuse of laxatives. Approximately 65% of athletes reported using at least one nutritional supplement in the previous 6 months, with 44% reporting multiple supplement use. There was no significant difference in supplement use between sexes or competition level.DiscussionDue to the established importance of nutritional intake on athlete health and performance, educational support should be employed to improve knowledge in climbers and address shortcomings. Moreover, intentional weight loss for climbing competition is common, with most athletes achieving ~3–8% body weight loss over ≥2 weeks. It is crucial that professionals working with competitive climbers are vigilant in identifying athletes at risk of concerning weight management and establish referral pathways to the appropriate specialist services. High quality intervention trials to assess the efficacy of ergogenic aids in climbing remains inadequate.
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- 2024
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46. Performance Factors in Sport Climbing: A Systematic Review.
- Author
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Diez-Fernández, Pelayo, Ruibal-Lista, Brais, Rico-Díaz, Javier, Rodríguez-Fernández, José Eugenio, and López-García, Sergio
- Abstract
Background: Our aim was understanding and identifying the main performance factors involved in sport climbing. Methods: A systematic review was conducted using the Google Scholar, Dialnet, Scielo, and Redalyc databases. Results: After establishing the selection criteria, a total of 27 documents related to the subject of study were examined. A limited number of publications with scientific evidence related to performance factors in sport climbing were found, despite the rise of sport climbing following its inclusion in the Olympic Games in Tokyo 2020. The results have been organized based on different performance factors analyzed, such as strength, muscular endurance, psychological factors, etc. Key determinants in climbing performance, and thus those present in elite athletes, include improved climbing efficiency, greater ability to apply maximum force or finger and palm pressure resistance, and increased arm locking strength. Additionally, it has been observed that those who can apply higher and more consistent loads experience better muscle oxygenation and have greater flexibility and lateral foot reach. Conclusions: Climbing performance is the result of factors that can be enhanced through training. Therefore, further research is needed to understand the performance factors involved in this sports discipline and how to improve them. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2023
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47. Parental perceptions of an indoor bouldering programme for toddlers and pre-schoolers in England: an initial exploratory study.
- Author
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Gridley, Nicole
- Subjects
- *
PRESCHOOL children , *PSYCHOLOGICAL well-being , *TEACHING methods , *OUTDOOR education , *CURRICULUM - Abstract
Many sports programmes designed for children under five claim improvements in physical, social, and psychological outcomes. However, few have been subject to any form of inquiry. This paper reports an initial exploratory study of parental perceptions of an indoor bouldering programme designed for children younger than 6 when delivered in England. Six parents who accessed an average of four sessions took part in a telephone interview to gather initial perceptions, and to establish whether they felt that there had been changes in their children's and their own behaviour by attending the Rock Tots/Kids classes. Thematic analysis indicated that parents were generally positive about the programme, and could identify some changes in their children's intrapersonal, interpersonal, and climbing specific skills when participating in the sessions. Parents also reported changes in their own approaches to parenting. Suggestions for future research of sports programmes targeted at this age group are discussed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2023
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48. Evaluation of Balance and Muscle Strength of Upper and Lower Limbs in Rock Climbers.
- Author
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Bobowik, Patrycja, Świerczek, Jan, Jaskulski, Karol, Wiszomirska, Ida, and Gajewski, Jan
- Subjects
MUSCLE strength ,MOUNTAINEERS ,ANKLE joint ,KNEE joint ,MUSCLE weakness ,OLDER men - Abstract
Introduction. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effects of bouldering on upper and lower limb muscle strength and body balance. Material and Methods. The study group consisted of 22 climbers (aged 27.23 ± 4.81) with at least 2 years of bouldering experience, while the control group consisted of 20 men (aged 23.10 ± 5.28) not practicing rock climbing. The study received approval from the local bioethical commission in Poland. Static and dynamic stabilographic parameters were measured with eyes open (EO) and closed (EC) on the Biodex Balance System SD USA (BBS) platform. Subsequently, the maximum muscle torques of the elbow, hip, knee and ankle joints were measured in isometric conditions. Hand-grip strength (HGS) with and without the thumb was assessed using a handheld dynamometer. Results. Climbers achieved significantly higher values of HGS with the thumb of both hands (p < 0.005), foot extensors strength (FES) in both limbs (p < 0.05) and left hip extensors (HES L) (p < 0.05). They also achieved significantly lower values of all stabilographic parameters, indicating better balance compared to the control group (p < 0.05). An interaction of HES x SIDE across the groups was observed (F(1,40) = 13.588, p < 0.001 η2 = 0.254). Moreover, there was a statistically significant negative correlation of ankle extensors strength with medial-lateral stability index (MLSI EC) (right: r = -0.418; left: r = -0.331) and fall risk index (FRI6-2) (right: r = -0.520; left: r = -0.435). Conclusions. Regular climbing training develops muscle strength, especially FES, HES, HGS, and improves balance. Climbing can be used for prevention of muscle weakness and equilibrium disorders. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2023
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
49. Quadrupedal terrestrial locomotion in emperor penguins (Aptenodytes forsteri).
- Author
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Davenport, John and Bels, Vincent
- Subjects
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QUADRUPEDALISM , *ANIMAL locomotion , *BIPEDALISM , *PENGUINS , *VIDEO recording - Abstract
Birds generally employ bipedal terrestrial locomotion; their wings flap synchronously to provide aerial propulsion. Penguins (Spheniscidae) are non-flyers that use their modified wings (flippers) to 'fly' underwater, again using synchronous action. The family is distributed from the equator to the Antarctic; the earliest penguins lived at temperate latitudes. On land, penguins usually walk bipedally and slowly (waddling) because their legs are short and their bodies long and fusiform. Their flippers are held out sideways and show little movement; they may function like balance poles. A few penguin species breed at high latitude and make substantial terrestrial migrations over snow and ice; they intermittently use an alternative terrestrial locomotory mode (tobogganing) in which they lie on their ventral surfaces and use the feet alternately to propel them more quickly. The emperor penguin Aptenodytes forsteri makes two-way trips (<250 km) to breed, encountering both ice and several types of snow. The topography varies from flat areas to steep slopes and ridges. In this study we analysed 13 publicly available video records and demonstrate that the flippers are also used for propulsion (particularly for climbing in deep snow). Gait analysis reveals that all four limbs are employed in a quadrupedal, ipsilaterally coordinated manner: the classic mode of tetrapod terrestrial locomotion. During climbing, tetrapod limb action is supplemented by use of the beak as an anchor. During quadrupedal locomotion over snow the flippers move snow on their power strokes, thereby demonstrating exchange of forces. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2023
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
50. Functional and morphological changes in shoulder girdle muscles after repeated climbing exercise.
- Author
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Klich, Sebastian, Madeleine, Pascal, Ficek, Krzysztof, Sommer, Klaudia, Fernández-de-Las-Peñas, Cesar, Michener, Lori A, and Kawczyński, Adam
- Subjects
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SKELETAL muscle physiology , *SHOULDER physiology , *STATISTICS , *SCIENTIFIC observation , *RANGE of motion of joints , *ULTRASONIC imaging , *SAMPLE size (Statistics) , *CONFIDENCE intervals , *ONE-way analysis of variance , *EXERCISE physiology , *STAIR climbing , *SPASTICITY , *MUSCLE strength , *EXERCISE , *CASE studies , *DESCRIPTIVE statistics , *RESEARCH funding , *DATA analysis software , *DATA analysis - Abstract
This study aimed to investigate the acute effect of repeated climbing actions on functional and morphological measures of the shoulder girdle. Fifteen male indoor climbers participated in this study. All the climbers declared route level 6a+, as the best climbing grade (French climbing grade scale). Functional (range of motion – ROM and muscle strength), and morphological measurements (muscle/tendon stiffness and thickness) after a repeated climbing exercise protocol were analysed. The ROM and muscle strength showed significant decreases from baseline to Immediate-Post (IA) as well as significant increases from IA to 1 h-Post for all movements (p ≤.001 for all). Muscle stiffness showed significant increases from baseline to IA after as well as significant decreases from IA to 1 h-Post for all muscles (p ≤.001 for all). However, the thickness showed significant increases from baseline to IA for supraspinatus tendon and muscle thickness and occupation ratio (p ≤.001 for all), while a significant decrease was observed in acromiohumeral distance (p ≤.001). Significant decreases from IA to 1 h-Post were found for muscles/tendons and occupation ratio (p ≤.001 for all), while a significant increase for AHD (p ≤.001). Our data demonstrated acute alterations in tendon thickness due to acute signs of implement symptom in climbers. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]
- Published
- 2023
- Full Text
- View/download PDF
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