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Copyright of China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics (2097-2806) is the property of China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics Editorial Office and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Background: In Korea, winter can cause skin dryness due to low relative humidity (RH); moreover, indoor heating devices promote moisture loss and air pollution. If dryness persists, dead skin cells accumulate, leading to skin problems; therefore, careful skin care is required. This study aimed to compare changes in skin conditions when exposed to an indoor environment for a short period of 6 h in winter, and to suggest proper winter skin care practices. Methods: A randomized, split‐face clinical study was conducted in which healthy female participants with normal skin were exposed to an indoor environment with a heater turned on for a short period at least 6 h per day in the winter season, and cream was applied to one side of the face. Skin temperature, hydration, sebum, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), elasticity, texture, pores, redness, and wrinkles were measured at the treated and nontreated sites. Results: After 6 h of exposure, skin temperature, pores, roughness, redness, and wrinkles significantly increased (p < 0.05) on the face, whereas TEWL significantly increased on the forearm (p < 0.05). However, sebum secretion appeared to function as a barrier to maintain homeostasis in the facial skin. Elasticity, pores, texture, and wrinkles in the cream‐treated ceramide site improved compared to those in the nontreated site (p < 0.05). The moisture content was also significantly higher in the forearm (p < 0.05). Conclusion: Changes in skin parameters of participants with healthy skin were observed even after short‐term exposure to an indoor environment in winter. Creams containing ceramide maintain skin homeostasis and protect the skin barrier; therefore, it is recommended to use such creams to prevent skin damage and maintain healthy skin, particularly during prolonged exposure to indoor environments during winter. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: New ceramide (CER) NPs were prepared by linking fatty acids derived from oils of Korean traditional plants to phytosphingosine (PHS). The oils of Korean traditional plants were extracted from the seeds of Panax ginseng, Camellia sinensis, Glycine max napjakong, Glycine max seoritae, and Camellia japonica as sources of diverse fatty acids. Aims: The aim of this study was to investigate signaling bioactivities of HP‐C. sinensis ceramide NP that was column purified to remove any residual PHS and to evaluate the skin barrier functions of the HP‐C. sinensis ceramide NP in human skin. Methods: The expressions of genes related to epidermal differentiation were analyzed in vitro by qPCR. Human studies were also performed to determine the skin barrier functions with respect to TEWL and SC cohesion. Results: The HP‐C. sinensis CER NP significantly enhanced the expressions of FLG, CASP14, and INV indicates that the signaling biological activities of oil‐derived ceramide NPs could be different depend on the natural oils. The control ceramide, C18‐CER NP, had no effect on the expression of the three genes. HP‐C. sinensis CER NP was selected for the in vivo human studies. Application of 0.5% HP‐C. sinensis CER NP cream stimulated significantly faster recovery of a disrupted skin barrier than that of the control C18‐CER NP. A significant enhancement of SC cohesion of the skin treated with 0.5% HP‐C. sinensis CER NP was also observed. Conclusion: Taken all together, our results clearly demonstrate that HP‐C. sinensis CER NP, P. ginseng CER NP, and other oil‐derived CER NP could be a better choice for developing moisturizers to improve skin barrier function as they more closely mimic the endogenous CER composition of the actual human skin barrier. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Ceramide NP is known to be the most abundant class of 12 ceramide (CER) families that form a permeability barrier in the human skin barrier. However, not many studies have been reported on the regulation of the biosynthesis of ceramide NP. Recently, it has been reported that phytosphingosine (PHS) treatment in the cultured keratinocytes (KC) notably increased the content of ceramide NP. However, the mechanism behind the PHS‐induced enhancement of ceramide NP has not been elucidated. In this study, we investigated the effects of PHS on the expression of several essential genes for the biosynthesis of CER. Also, we determined the molecular mechanism behind the unique enhancement of ceramide NP upon treatment of PHS in the cultured KC. The expressions of all of the three genes (SPT, ceramide synthase 3 [CERS3], and ELOVL4) and their respective proteins were markedly increased in PHS‐treated KC. In addition, the expression of the dihydroceramide C4‐desaturase (DES2) responsible for conversion of dihydroceramide into ceramide NP was uniquely enhanced only by PHS treatment. Liquid chromatography–tandem mass spectrometry (LC–MS/MS) analysis revealed that more than 20‐fold increase of ceramide NP by PHS was observed while no significant enhancement of ceramide NS and NDS was observed. This study demonstrates that PHS plays a fundamental role in strengthening the epidermal permeability barrier by stimulating the overall processes of biosynthesis of all classes of CER in epidermis. The dramatic increase of ceramide NP upon PHS treatment seemed to be the outcome of transformation of dihydroceramide and/or ceramide NS by C4‐hydroxylase activity. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Numerous formulations have been utilized in the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries to effectively deliver bioactive ingredients., Methods: We selected a well-known liposomal formulation of bilayer lipid vesicles composed of ceramide NP. Ethosomes contain hydrophilic vanillic acid or lipophilic α-bisabolol, and their physicochemical properties were evaluated. Vanillic acid is encapsulated in the aqueous core while α-bisabolol is engaged with the lipid phase. The formulation was prepared by the high-pressure homogenization method at 800 bar for 5 min. The particle size, polydispersity index and zeta potential of the ethosome dispersion were analyzed by dynamic light scattering. In order to measure the skin absorption efficiency from artificial skin, an in vitro assay was performed using the Franz diffusion cell method for 24 hours. In addition, ultracentrifuges for encapsulation efficiency, dialysis membranes for active ingredient release, and low-temperature transmission electron microscopy (TEM) to evaluate the morphology of vesicles were utilized., Results: The particle size of the ethosome containing ceramide NP and vanillic acid was in the range of 80 ~ 130 nm, whereas the particle size of the ethosome containing ceramide NP and α-bisabolol was 150 ~ 170 nm. In the vanillic acid-containing ethosome, increasing the amount of ceramide NP decreased the particle size, whereas the size of the α-bisabolol ethosome did not change. The stability of the prepared ethosome did not change significantly for 4 weeks at 25°C, 4°C, and 45°C. The skin absorption efficiency of ceramide NP and vanillic acid-containing ethosome was increased by about 15% compared to the control group, whereas the ethosome containing α-bisabolol and ceramide NP showed slightly higher skin absorption efficiency than the control group. In addition, encapsulation efficiency evaluation, active ingredient release measurement and cryo-TEM were taken., Conclusion and Perspective: Based on the results of these studies, we suggest that ethosome formulations containing ceramide NP can be widely used in the cosmetic industry together with other cosmetic formulations., (Copyright© Bentham Science Publishers; For any queries, please email at epub@benthamscience.net.)