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At geologic timescales, a significant proportion of the sediment eroded from continents is transferred from rivers to littoral cells, then through submarine canyons to deep ocean basins. Accumulation and occasional discharge of sediment from canyon headwall regions is a likely driver for the sediment gravity flows believed to be responsible for much of this mass transport, but the responsible mechanisms and event timescales in canyon heads are imprecisely defined, largely due to the drowning of canyon heads since the last glaciation and the resulting dearth of modern depositional environments to observe. We investigated a littoral cell adjacent to Mattole submarine canyon in Northern California to better understand the influence of bathymetry and coast shape on sediment trajectories and hypothesize that canyon heads promote littoral sediment accumulation due to bathymetric sheltering of the adjacent coast from waves and convergence of littoral cells exposed to varying wave direction. The uppermost gullies of Mattole Canyon extend to the littoral cell, and a train of sediment waves within the uppermost thalweg of Mattole Canyon suggests that gravity-driven flows of shore-derived sediment may have recently occurred. Mattole Canyon and nearby Mendocino Canyon flow into the deep Mendocino Channel, which has the highest observed Late Holocene sediment accumulation rates in Northern California. We documented the beach slope, grain size, and sediment provenance along 15 km of coast adjacent to Mattole Canyon and conducted numerical wave modeling to infer the dominant direction and magnitude of sediment transport, relative wave sheltering by bathymetry, and estimated sediment mobility in the vicinity of the canyon head over a multi-year period. South of the canyon headwall, in the vicinity of the Mattole River outlet, coarser sediment rich in metasandstone clasts and steeper beach slopes coincide with decadal-scale beach accretion. North of the canyon head, sediments are generally finer, beaches are flatter, clast lithologies include more quartz and mudstone grains, and there is decadal-scale net erosion. Wave modeling suggests the Mattole headwall region is subject to sustained sheltering from waves due to canyon bathymetry, littoral sediment convergence above the canyon head for much of a typical year, and occasional bed entrainment of sediment in the canyon's uppermost gullies by large waves. Larger winter waves from the northwest likely result in net southerly drift north of the canyon head, with a high likelihood of preferentially transporting fine-grained, more quartz-rich sediment towards the Mattole headwall. Smaller summer swells from the west and south likely results in net northerly transport of metasandstone clast-rich Mattole River-derived sediment towards the canyon head. The imbalance in seasonality in wave conditions, coast shape, and sediment delivery by the Mattole River and other coastal creeks is broadly consistent with the spatial patterns in grain size, mineralogy, slope, and beach width that we observe in the vicinity of the canyon, and the net delivery of sediment to the Mattole Canyon head. An approximate mass balance of sediment flux from coastal streams feeding Mattole River littoral cell suggests that sediment volumes likely accumulate in the canyon headwall region that could supply several density flow events in a typical decade. These findings highlight the importance of the connectivity of the canyon to the nearshore region for the processes and products in canyons and fans. We hypothesize that feedbacks between canyon bathymetry, sediment accumulation, and mass evacuating flows promotes the long-term persistence of canyon systems. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Satellite remote sensing is transforming coastal science from a "data-poor" field into a "datarich" field. Sandy beaches are dynamic landscapes that change in response to long-term pressures, short-term pulses, and anthropogenic interventions. Until recently, the rate and breadth of beach change have outpaced our ability to monitor those changes, due to the spatiotemporal limitations of our observational capacity. Over the past several decades, only a handful of beaches worldwide have been regularly monitored with accurate yet expensive in situ surveys. The long-term coastal-change data of these few well-monitored beaches have led to in-depth understanding of many site-specific coastal processes. However, because the bestmonitored beaches are not representative of all beaches, much remains unknown about the processes and fate of the other >99% of unmonitored beaches worldwide. The fleet of Earthobserving satellites has enabled multiscale monitoring of beaches, for the very first time, by providing imagery with global coverage and up to daily frequency. The long-standing and everexpanding archive of satellite imagery will enable coastal scientists to investigate coastal change at sites vulnerable to future sea-level rise, that is, (almost) everywhere. In the past decade, our capability to observe coastal change from space has grown substantially with computing and algorithmic power. Yet, further advances are needed in automating monitoring using machine learning, deep learning, and computer vision to fully leverage this massive treasure trove of data. Extensive monitoring and investigation of the causes and effects of coastal change at the requisite spatiotemporal scales will provide coastal managers with additional, valuable information to evaluate problems and solutions, addressing the potential for widespread beach loss due to accelerated sea-level rise, development, and reduced sediment supply. Monitoring from Earthobserving satellites is currently the only means of providing seamless data with high spatiotemporal resolution at the global scale of the impending impacts of climate change on coastal systems. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

To link to full-text access for this article, visit this link: http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.earscirev.2006.06.003 Byline: Daniel Buscombe, Gerhard Masselink Keywords: Coastal geomorphology; Gravel beaches; Nearshore sediment transport; Sedimentology Abstract: The dominant processes in gravel beach dynamics are reviewed, highlighting some common themes which unify the various components of the gravel beach system, the repercussions of which impart on how gravel beach dynamics might be understood conceptually. In particular, gravel beach dynamics are thought to be highly dependent on the temporal and spatial variation in grain size, and the continual adjustments made by an active beach step, both of which act not only as the expression of changing morphodynamic conditions, but also as a controlling influence. Morphodynamics, the notion that the exchanges on beaches between the hydrodynamics, sediment transport, and morphological change takes the form of reciprocal relationships which are mediated through feedback mechanisms (in such a way that they cannot be thought of or studied independently) is not a new one. Yet it appears that for the gravel beach, morphodynamics must be re-defined to describe conditions where variations in sediment size are thought to deserve parity, rather than as merely a sequent entity or boundary condition. 'Morpho-sedimentary-dynamics' is a phrase coined to intuit such cause and effect, detailing the co-evolution of morphology, hydro-hydraulics and sediment properties whilst acknowledging causative pluralism, feedbacks and multiplier effects. This is the recommended conceptual framework within which to crystallise thought and organise further research for the gravel beach. Essentially, it increases the minimum number of parameters needed to describe the state of the gravel beach as a physical system. Therefore, it is advised that simplicity will be most expedient in our future modelling efforts, if complexity is to be adequately encapsulated. Author Affiliation: School of Geography, University of Plymouth, Plymouth, PL4 8AA, UK Article History: Received 3 November 2005; Accepted 5 June 2006