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The DUring Nearshore Event EXperiment (DUNEX) was a series of large-scale nearshore coastal field experiments focused on during-storm, nearshore coastal processes. The experiments were conducted on the North Carolina coast by a multidisciplinary group of over 30 research scientists from 2019 to 2021. The overarching goal of DUNEX was to collaboratively gather information to improve understanding of the interactions of coastal water levels, waves, and flows, beach and dune evolution, soil behavior, vegetation, and groundwater during major coastal storms that affect infrastructure, habitats, and communities. In the short term, these high-quality field measurements will lead to better understanding of during-storm processes, impacts and post-storm recovery and will enhance US academic coastal research programs. Longer-term, DUNEX data and outcomes will improve understanding and prediction of extreme event physical processes and impacts, validate coastal processes numerical models, and improve coastal resilience strategies and communication methods for coastal communities impacted by storms. This report focuses on the planning and preparation required to conduct a large-scale field experiment, the collaboration amongst researchers, and lessons learned. The value of a large-scale experiment focused on storm processes and impacts begins with the scientific gains from the data collected, which will be available and used for decades to come.

Ocean surges pose a global threat for coastal stability. These hazardous events alter flow conditions and pore pressures in flooded beach areas during both inundation and subsequent retreat stages, which can mobilize beach material, potentially enhancing erosion significantly. In this study, the evolution of surge-induced pore-pressure gradients is studied through numerical hydrologic simulations of storm surges. The spatiotemporal variability of critically high gradients is analyzed in three dimensions. The analysis is based on a threshold value obtained for quicksand formation of beach materials under groundwater seepage. Simulations of surge events show that, during the run-up stage, head gradients can rise to the calculated critical level landward of the advancing inundation line. During the receding stage, critical gradients were simulated seaward of the retreating inundation line. These gradients reach maximum magnitudes just as sea level returns to pre-surge levels and are most accentuated beneath the still-water shoreline, where the model surface changes slope. The gradients vary along the shore owing to variable beach morphology, with the largest gradients seaward of intermediate-scale (1-3 m elevation) topographic elements (dunes) in the flood zone. These findings suggest that the common practices in monitoring and mitigating surge-induced failures and erosion, which typically focus on the flattest areas of beaches, might need to be revised to include other topographic features. National Science Foundation [OCE1848650, OIA1757353, OCE1829136, CMMI-1751463]; US Geological Survey [NIWR 2018DE01G]; Vannevar Bush Faculty Fellowship; US Coastal Research Program; Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Investment in Science Program Published version This research has been supported by the National Science Foundation (grant nos. OCE1848650, OIA1757353,OCE1829136, EAR1933010, and CMMI-1751463, and a Graduate Research Fellowship) and the US Geological Survey (grant no NIWR 2018DE01G), a Vannevar Bush Faculty Fellowship, the US Coastal Research Program, and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution Investment in Science Program

Ocean surges pose a global threat for coastal stability. These hazardous events alter flow conditions and pore pressures in flooded beach areas during both inundation and subsequent retreat stages, which can mobilize beach material, potentially enhancing erosion significantly. In this study, the evolution of surge-induced pore-pressure gradients is studied through numerical hydrologic simulations of storm surges. The spatiotemporal variability of critically high gradients is analyzed in 3D. The analysis is based on a threshold value obtained for momentary liquefaction of beach materials under groundwater seepage. Simulations of surge events show that during the run-up stage, head gradients can rise to the calculated critical level landward of the advancing inundation line. During the receding stage, critical gradients were simulated seaward of the retreating inundation line. These gradients reach maximum magnitudes just as sea level returns to pre-surge level, and are most accentuated beneath the still-water shoreline, where the model surface changes slope. The gradients vary along the shore owing to variable beach morphology, with the largest gradients seaward of intermediate-scale (1–3 m elevation) topographic elements (dunes) in the flood zone. These findings suggest that the common practices in monitoring and mitigating surge-induced failures and erosion, which typically focus on the flattest areas of beaches, might need to be revised.

Beach nourishment — the addition of sand to increase the width or sand volume of the beach — is a widespread coastal management technique to counteract coastal erosion. Globally, rising sea levels, storms and diminishing sand supplies threaten beaches and the recreational, ecosystem, groundwater and flood protection services they provide. Consequently, beach nourishment practices have evolved from focusing on maximizing the time sand stays on the beach to also encompassing human safety and water recreation, groundwater dynamics and ecosystem impacts. In this Perspective, we present a multidisciplinary overview of beach nourishment, discussing physical aspects of beach nourishment alongside ecological and socio-economic impacts. The future of beach nourishment practices will vary depending on local vulnerability, sand availability, financial resources, government regulations and efficiencies, and societal perceptions of environmental risk, recreational uses, ecological conservation and social justice. We recommend co-located, multidisciplinary research studies on the combined impacts of nourishments, and explorations of various designs to guide these globally diverse nourishment practices. Beach nourishment is a well-established engineering practice to slow erosion and maintain or expand sandy beaches, but sea level rise, diminishing sand resources and recreational, groundwater and ecological concerns require new assessments and designs of this coastal management technique. This Perspective describes the multidisciplinary aims and impacts of sandy beach nourishment.

Low-frequency currents and eddies transport sediment, pathogens, larvae, and heat along the coast and between the shoreline and deeper water. Here, low-frequency currents (between 0.1 and 4.0 mHz) observed in shallow surfzone waters for 120 days during a wide range of wave conditions are compared with theories for generation by instabilities of alongshore currents, by ocean-wave-induced sea surface modulations, and by a nonlinear transfer of energy from breaking waves to low-frequency motions via a two-dimensional inverse energy cascade. For these data, the low-frequency currents are not strongly correlated with shear of the alongshore current, with the strength of the alongshore current, or with wave-group statistics. In contrast, on many occasions, the low-frequency currents are consistent with an inverse energy cascade from breaking waves. The energy of the low-frequency surfzone currents increases with the directional spread of the wave field, consistent with vorticity injection by short-crested breaking waves, and structure functions increase with spatial lags, consistent with a cascade of energy from few-meter-scale vortices to larger-scale motions. These results include the first field evidence for the inverse energy cascade in the surfzone and suggest that breaking waves and nonlinear energy transfers should be considered when estimating nearshore transport processes across and along the coast.

Model simulations using a depth-averaged ocean circulation model (ADCIRC) two-way coupled with a wave model (STWAVE) through the Coastal Storm Modeling System Coupling Framework (CSTORM-MS...

Observations of waves, currents, and bathymetric change in shallow water (8 m). A numerical model (Delft3D, 2DH mode) simulating waves, currents, and morphological change reproduces the observations with the inclusion of hurricane force winds and sediment transport parameters adjusted based on model-data comparisons. For simulations of short hurricanes and longer nor'easters with identical offshore total time-integrated wave energy, but different peak wave energies and storm durations, morphological change is correlated (R2 = 0.60) with storm intensity (total energy of the storm divided by the duration of the storm). Similarly, the erosion observed at the Sand Engine in the Netherlands is correlated with storm intensity. The observations and simulations suggest that the temporal distribution of energy in a storm event, as well as the total energy, impacts subsequent nearshore morphological change. Increased storm intensity enhances sediment transport in bathymetrically complex, mixed wave-and-tidal-current energy environments, as well as at other wave-dominated sandy beaches.

The performance of a linear depth inversion algorithm, cBathy, applied to coastal video imagery was assessed using observations of water depth from vessel-based hydrographic surveys and in-situ altimeters for a wide range of wave conditions (0.3

Three years of observations of groundwater elevations, ocean tides, surge, and waves, and rainfall are used to study coastal groundwater-driven flooding along the ocean side of a barrier island. Increases in surge and wave-driven water levels (setup) during 26 ocean storms with little rainfall, including the passage of 3 hurricanes, caused O(1 m) increases in groundwater heads under the dunes on the ocean side of the island, nearly double previously reported magnitudes. The inland propagation of the resulting pulses in groundwater levels is consistent with an analytical model (without recharge) based on shallow aquifer theory (Nash Sutcliffe model efficiencies of >0.7, maximum water-table level estimates within 0.1 m of observations). Infiltration of precipitation results in approximately a threefold increase in the groundwater level relative to the amount of rainfall. The analytical model (with recharge) driven with estimated ocean shoreline water levels (based on the 36-hr-averaged offshore tide, surge, and wave height) and measured precipitation predicts the maximum water-table height within 0.15 m of that observed across the barrier island during Hurricane Matthew, which was the only wave event during the 3-yr data set with more than 0.1 m rainfall. Citizen-science reports from a smartphone app (iFlood) are used to evaluate the regional application of the model. Twenty-five ocean-side reports associated with 7 ocean storms (6 of which had minimal rainfall) between Sept 2019 and Feb 2020 showed flooding on natural (permeable) land surfaces along 70 km of the northern Outer Banks barrier island, from Corolla to Rodanthe, NC. The analytical model (with recharge) predicts flooding that is consistent with the timing and location for 19 of the 25 reports. Applying the model regionally suggests that more than 10% of the land area on the ocean side of the northern Outer Banks would be inundated by coastal groundwater even in the absence of rainfall for an ocean storm that generates a 2.25 m increase in the shoreline water level.

Coastal beach aquifers are biogeochemically active systems that mediate chemical and material fluxes across the land-sea interface. This paper provides a review of major physical stressors and geologic features that influence flow and solute fate and transport in coastal beach aquifers. We outline current understanding of the interactions between these factors and their associated impacts on water and geochemical fluxes within and across these aquifers. The physical processes that control flow, transport, and the formation and distribution of reactive zones in beach aquifers (e.g., tides, waves, density gradients, precipitation, episodic ocean events, and evaporation) operate across overlapping temporal and spatial scales, and present challenges for measuring and modeling physical flow and biogeochemical processes in coastal groundwater systems. Geologic heterogeneity introduces further complexity by modifying flowpaths, mixing patterns, and rates of biotransformation. Interactions between these physical stressors and geological controls are likely to evolve with changes in sea level, climate variability, human settlement, coastal erosion, and other natural and anthropogenic stresses, providing avenues for scientific exploration into the future role of beach aquifers as chemical mediators between the land and ocean.

A number of models are available for science and engineering purposes that numerically simulate nearshore hydrodynamics and the corresponding morphological evolution. However, the models include adjustable coefficients in parameterizations for physical processes that need to be calibrated, and thus there remains room for improvement by including additional physics. One such model is XBeach, which can simulate erosion during storms with proper calibration based on observations. The modeled sediment transport, especially in the cross-shore direction, is sensitive to the adjustable coefficients, with preferred values that are site and event specific. Here, the skill of XBeach is investigated by comparing 1-dimensional (cross-shore) depth-averaged simulations with observations of waves, currents, and sandbar migration across an Atlantic Ocean beach. Calibration of coefficients improved the agreement of the computed results with observed wave heights, offshore-directed mean currents (undertow), the wave-orbital-velocity third moments (skewness and asymmetry), and onshore/offshore sandbar migration although the proposed coefficient values depend on the parameterizations used. For example, including a variable breaking-wave roller energy model resulted in more skillful predictions of undertow than using the default constant coefficient value. Using the calibrated roller coefficients and corresponding undertow, XBeach simulated the observed offshore migration of the sandbar. Onshore transport in XBeach is driven by non-sinusoidal wave-orbital velocities, and proposed values for coefficients depend on the parameterization used to estimate skewness and asymmetry and the associated transport, as well as on incident wave conditions. XBeach calculations of cross-shore sediment transport rates were compared with those estimated by a commonly used sediment transport formula based on laboratory experiments. The inter-comparison suggests that using a wave-induced onshore transport parameter 3 or 4 times larger than the default value may at least in part compensate for the lack of bottom-boundary-layer-streaming-driven-onshore transport in XBeach.

Although rip currents are a major hazard for beachgoers, the relationship between the danger to swimmers and the physical properties of rip current circulation is not well understood. Here, the relationship between statistical model estimates of hazardous rip current likelihood and in situ velocity observations is assessed. The statistical model is part of a forecasting system that is being made operational by the National Weather Service to predict rip current hazard likelihood as a function of wave conditions and water level. The temporal variability of rip current speeds (offshore-directed currents) observed on an energetic sandy beach is correlated with the hindcasted hazard likelihood for a wide range of conditions. High likelihoods and rip current speeds occurred for low water levels, nearly shore-normal wave angles, and moderate or larger wave heights. The relationship between modeled hazard likelihood and the frequency with which rip current speeds exceeded a threshold was assessed for a range of threshold speeds. The frequency of occurrence of high (threshold exceeding) rip current speeds is consistent with the modeled probability of hazard, with a maximum Brier skill score of 0.65 for a threshold speed of 0.23 m s−1, and skill scores greater than 0.60 for threshold speeds between 0.15 and 0.30 m s−1. The results suggest that rip current speed may be an effective proxy for hazard level and that speeds greater than ~0.2 m s−1 may be hazardous to swimmers.

Field-tested numerical model simulations are used to estimate the effects of an inlet, ebb shoal, wave height, wave direction, and shoreline geometry on the variability of bathymetric change on a curved coast with a migrating inlet and strong nearshore currents. The model uses bathymetry measured along the southern shoreline of Martha's Vineyard, MA, and was validated with waves and currents observed from the shoreline to ~10-m water depth. Between 2007 and 2014, the inlet was open and the shoreline along the southeast corner of the island eroded ~200 m and became sharper. Between 2014 and 2015, the corner accreted and became smoother as the inlet closed. Numerical simulations indicate that variability of sediment transport near the corner shoreline depends more strongly on its radius of curvature (a proxy for the separation of tidal flows from the coast) than on the presence of the inlet, the ebb shoal, or wave height and direction. As the radius of curvature decreases (as the corner sharpens), tidal asymmetry of nearshore currents is enhanced, leading to more sediment transport near the shoreline over several tidal cycles. The results suggest that feedbacks between shoreline geometry and inner-shelf flows can be important to coastal erosion and accretion in the vicinity of an inlet.

Prior studies have shown that frictional changes owing to evolving geometry of an inlet in a multiple inlet-bay system can affect tidally driven circulation. Here, a step between a relatively deep inlet and a shallow bay also is shown to affect tidal sea-level fluctuations in a bay connected to multiple inlets. To examine the relative importance of friction and a step, a lumped element (parameter) model is used that includes tidal reflection from the step. The model is applied to the two-inlet system of Katama Inlet (which connects Katama Bay on Martha's Vineyard, MA to the Atlantic Ocean) and Edgartown Channel (which connects the bay to Vineyard Sound). Consistent with observations and previous numerical simulations, the lumped element model suggests that the presence of a shallow flood shoal limits the influence of an inlet. In addition, the model suggests an increasing importance of friction relative to the importance of the step as an inlet shallows, narrows, and lengthens, as observed at Katama Inlet from 2011 to 2014.

Numerical models of ocean circulation often depend on parameters that must be tuned to match either results from laboratory experiments or field observations. This study demonstrates that an initial, suboptimal estimate of a parameter in a model of a small bay can be improved by assimilating observations of trajectories of passive drifters. The parameter of interest is the Manning's n coefficient of friction in a small inlet of the bay, which had been tuned to match velocity observations from 2011. In 2013, the geometry of the inlet had changed, and the friction parameter was no longer optimal. Results from synthetic experiments demonstrate that assimilation of drifter trajectories improves the estimate of n, both when the drifters are located in the same region as the parameter of interest and when the drifters are located in a different region of the bay. Real drifter trajectories from field experiments in 2013 also are assimilated, and results are compared with velocity observations. When the real drifters are located away from the region of interest, the results depend on the time interval (with respect to the full available trajectories) over which assimilation is performed. When the drifters are in the same region as the parameter of interest, the value of n estimated with assimilation yields improved estimates of velocity throughout the bay. This work was supported by: Department of Defense Multidisciplinary University Research Initiative (MURI) [grant N000141110087], administered by the Office of Naval Research; the National Science Foundation (NSF); the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA); NOAA's Climate Program Office; the Department of Energy's Office for Science (BER); and the Assistant Secretary of Defense (Research & Development).

To investigate the dynamics of flows near nonuniform bathymetry, single channels (on average 30 m wide and 1.5 m deep) were dredged across the surf zone at five different times, and the subsequent evolution of currents and morphology was observed for a range of wave and tidal conditions. In addition, circulation was simulated with the numerical modeling system COAWST, initialized with the observed incident waves and channel bathymetry, and with an extended set of wave conditions and channel geometries. The simulated flows are consistent with alongshore flows and rip-current circulation patterns observed in the surf zone. Near the offshore-directed flows that develop in the channel, the dominant terms in modeled momentum balances are wave-breaking accelerations, pressure gradients, advection, and the vortex force. The balances vary spatially, and are sensitive to wave conditions and the channel geometry. The observed and modeled maximum offshore-directed flow speeds are correlated with a parameter based on the alongshore gradient in breaking-wave-driven-setup across the nonuniform bathymetry (a function of wave height and angle, water depths in the channel and on the sandbar, and a breaking threshold) and the breaking-wave-driven alongshore flow speed. The offshore-directed flow speed increases with dissipation on the bar and reaches a maximum (when the surf zone is saturated) set by the vertical scale of the bathymetric variability.

A 9 km long tracer plume was created by continuously releasing Rhodamine WT dye for 2.2 h during ebb tide within the southern edge of the main tidal channel at New River Inlet, NC on 7 May 2012, with highly obliquely incident waves and alongshore winds. Over 6 h from release, COAWST (coupled ROMS and SWAN, including wave, wind, and tidal forcing) modeled dye compares well with (aerial hyperspectral and in situ) observed dye concentration. Dye first was transported rapidly seaward along the main channel and partially advected across the ebb-tidal shoal until reaching the offshore edge of the shoal. Dye did not eject offshore in an ebb-tidal jet because the obliquely incident breaking waves retarded the inlet-mouth ebb-tidal flow and forced currents along the ebb shoal. The dye plume largely was confined to

Extreme events have significant impacts on the nearshore water-land system - where ocean, sound, and estuary processes interact with the nearby land - that pose high risk to society. Observations before, during, and after these events are critical to improve understanding of the interactions and feedbacks among the natural and built environments during major storms, and the corresponding human actions and reactions. The goal of the Nearshore Extreme Events Reconnaissance (NEER) Association is to organize and coordinate a national network of scientists spanning many disciplines to perform rapid, pre-and post-event site characterization, to deploy instruments to observe event processes, and to gather virtual data about the event and provide support to field teams. This presentation provides information about NEER's motivation, event-response and coordination activities, data-distribution plans, and lessons learned to date. Funding for NEER is provided by the U.S. National Science Foundation Coastlines and People Program.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/9I9Z3OLGszU

Storm surge resulting from oceanic extreme events, commonly tropical cyclones, is a major contributor to coastal flooding and property damage. Thus, there is significant investment in accurate predictions. However, forecasts of storm surge often are focused on regional scales, and are unable to resolve complex nearshore bathymetry and small tidal inlets (Yin et al. 2016) that can be critical to local surge magnitudes and timing. Here, model simulations with a regional wave-flow coupled model (NACCS), a high bathymetric resolution uncoupled flow model (ADCIRC), and a high resolution coupled model (CSTORM) are compared with observations of storm surge during Hurricane Irene (Atlantic Storm 09, 2011) within Katama Bay, Martha's Vineyard, Massachusetts.Recorded Presentation from the vICCE (YouTube Link): https://youtu.be/hKdA2zYWI2Y

Observations and numerical model (ADCIRC) simulations are used to quantify the changes in circulation within the evolving, shallow, two-inlet tidal Katama system, Martha's Vineyard, MA. From 2011 to 2013, Katama Inlet, connecting Katama Bay to the Atlantic, became 5 times longer, 1/3 as wide, and 1/3 as deep as the inlet migrated and rotated. This morphological evolution caused a significant loss of energy throughout Katama Bay and Edgartown Channel, which connects the bay to Vineyard Sound. The decrease in energy as the inlet evolved between 2011 and 2013 was not monotonic. Model simulations suggest bathymetric changes caused by Hurricane Irene (August 2011) resulted in a temporary increase in circulation energy throughout the inlets and bay. Changes in the M4 and M6 tidal constituents, harmonics of the primary M2 tidal forcing, suggest the changes in the observed circulation patterns primarily were owing to changes in friction, and not to changes in advection resulting from the evolving inlet location, orientation, or geometry, consistent with previous results.

Observations of waves and setup on a steep, sandy beach are used to identify and assess potential applications of spatially dense lidar measurements for studying inner-surf and swash-zone hydrodynamics. There is good agreement between lidar- and pressure-based estimates of water levels (r2 = 0.98, rmse = 0.05 m), setup (r2 = 0.92, rmse = 0.03 m), infragravity wave heights (r2 = 0.91, rmse = 0.03 m), swell–sea wave heights (r2 = 0.87, rmse = 0.07 m), and energy density spectra. Lidar observations did not degrade with range (up to 65 m offshore of the lidar) when there was sufficient foam present on the water surface to generate returns, suggesting that for narrow-beam 1550-nm light, spatially varying spot size, grazing angle affects, and linear interpolation (to estimate the water surface over areas without returns) are not large sources of error. Consistent with prior studies, the lidar and pressure observations indicate that standing infragravity waves dominate inner-surf and swash energy at low frequencies and progressive swell–sea waves dominate at higher frequencies. The spatially dense lidar measurements enable estimates of reflection coefficients from pairs of locations at a range of spatial lags (thus spanning a wide range of frequencies or wavelengths). Reflection is high at low frequencies, increases with beach slope, and decreases with increasing offshore wave height, consistent with prior studies. Lidar data also indicate that wave asymmetry increases rapidly across the inner surf and swash. The comparisons with pressure measurements and with theory demonstrate that lidar measures inner-surf waves and setup accurately, and can be used for studies of inner-surf and swash-zone hydrodynamics.

The relationship between synthetic aperture radar (SAR) signatures of depth-limited breaking waves and wave height is studied. Wave height is estimated from SAR images using an empirically derived relationship that exploits the azimuthal shift in SAR images associated with moving scatterers. This relationship is derived from in situ measurements rather than from an idealized model of breaking waves as was done in a previous study. We find that the lengths of the SAR signatures are correlated with the observed significant wave height (the correlation coefficient is 0.78) for a range of wave conditions. The relationship between the wave heights and velocity bandwidths from the field data is similar to that between simulated (with a Boussinesq surface wave model) wave heights and velocity ranges (correlation $\mbox{coefficient}=0.82$ ).

Material transport and dispersion near the mouth of a tidal inlet (New River Inlet, NC) are investigated using GPS-tracked drifters and numerical models. For ebb tide releases, velocities are largest (>1 m s−1) in two approximately 30 m wide channels that bisect the 1–3 m deep ebb shoal. In the channels, drifter and subsurface current meter velocities are similar, consistent with strong vertical mixing and 2-D hydrodynamics. Drifters were preferentially entrained in the channelized jets where drifter cluster lateral spreading rates μin were small ( μin≈0.5 m2 s−1). At the seaward edge of the ebb shoal, jet velocities decrease linearly with distance (to ≤0.2 m s−1, about 1 km from shore), and cluster spreading rates are larger with μout≈3 m2 s−1. Although the models COAWST and NearCom generally reproduce the observed trajectory directions, certain observed drifter properties are poorly modeled. For example, modeled mean drifter velocities are smaller than observed, and upon exiting the inlet, observed drifters turn north more than modeled drifters. The model simulations do reproduce qualitatively the spreading rates observed in the inner inlet, the flow deceleration, and the increase in μout observed in the outer inlet. However, model spreading rates increase only to μout

The interactions between waves, tidal currents, and bathymetry near New River Inlet, NC, USA are investigated to understand the effects on the resulting hydrodynamics and sediment transport. A quasi-3-D nearshore community model, NearCoM-TVD, is used in this integrated observational and modeling study. The model is validated with observations of waves and currents at 30 locations, including in a recently dredged navigation channel and a shallower channel, and on the ebb tidal delta, for a range of flow and offshore wave conditions during May 2012. In the channels, model skills for flow velocity and wave height are high. Near the ebb tidal delta, the model reproduces the observed rapid onshore (offshore) decay of wave heights (current velocities). Model results reveal that this sharp transition coincides with the location of the breaker zone over the ebb tidal delta, which is modulated by semidiurnal tides and by wave intensity. The modulation of wave heights is primarily owing to depth changes rather than direct wave-current interaction. The modeled tidally averaged residual flow patterns show that waves play an important role in generating vortices and landward-directed currents near the inlet entrance. Numerical experiments suggest that these flow patterns are associated with the channel-shoal bathymetry near the inlet, similar to the generation of rip currents. Consistent with other inlet studies, model results suggest that tidal currents drive sediment fluxes in the channels, but that sediment fluxes on the ebb tidal delta are driven primarily by waves.

The time and space variability of wave transformation through a tidal inlet is investigated with radar remote sensing. The frequency of wave breaking and the net wave breaking dissipation at high spatial resolution is estimated using image sequences acquired with a land-based X-band marine radar. Using the radar intensity data, transformed to normalized radar cross section σ0, the temporal and spatial distributions of wave breaking are identified using a threshold developed via the data probability density function. In addition, the inlet bathymetry is determined via depth inversion of the radar-derived frequencies and wavenumbers of the surface waves using a preexisting algorithm (cBathy). Wave height transformation is calculated through the 1D cross-shore energy flux equation incorporating the radar-estimated breaking distribution and bathymetry. The accuracy of the methodology is tested by comparison with in situ wave height observations over a 9-day period, obtaining correlation values R = 0.68 to 0.96, and root-mean-square errors from 0.05 to 0.19 m. Predicted wave forcing, computed as the along-inlet gradient of the cross-shore radiation stress was onshore during high-wave conditions, in good agreement (R = 0.95) with observations.

Often, there is an order of magnitude more fecal indicator bacteria (enterococci) in beach sand than in nearby water. Consequently, sand is considered a reservoir for these bacteria, potentially contributing to poor water quality, and raising questions regarding the human health risks associated with sand exposure. An integral aspect of the distribution and persistence of sand-associated enterococci is the transport of bacteria introduced into the beach environment. Here, plastic microspheres are used as a proxy to examine the wave-induced movement of bacterial-like particles through sand on an ocean beach. Laboratory tests suggest microspheres and bacteria move similarly through sand columns, and have qualitatively similar short-term adsorption-to-sand behavior. Microspheres buried ~0.05 m below the sand surface on an ocean beach moved rapidly [ O (10 −3 ) m/s] away from their initial location, both vertically into the ground water below the sand and horizontally seaward within the sediment matrix in response to waves running up the beach face and percolating through the sand.

Alongshore force balances, including the role of nonlinear advection, in the shoaling and surf zones onshore of a submarine canyon are investigated using a numerical modeling system (Delft3D/SWAN). The model is calibrated with waves and alongshore flows recorded over a period of 1.5 months at 26 sites along the 1.0, 2.5, and 5.0 m depth contours spanning about 2 km of coast. Field observation-based estimates of the alongshore pressure and radiation-stress gradients are reproduced well by the model. Model simulations suggest that the alongshore momentum balance is between the sum of the pressure and radiation-stress gradients and the sum of the nonlinear advective terms and bottom stress, with the remaining terms (e.g., wind stress and turbulent mixing) being negligible. The simulations also indicate that unexplained residuals in previous field-based estimates of the momentum balance may be owing to the neglect of the nonlinear advective terms, which are similar in magnitude to the sum of the forcing (pressure and radiations stress gradients) and to the bottom stress.

The relative importance of radiation stress gradients and alongshore pressure gradients to surfzone dynamics is investigated using observations of water levels, waves, and flows measured onshore of a large ebb-tidal delta. Incident wave heights measured along the ~ 11-m depth contour varied about 10% over a 1.2-km alongshore transect, resulting in alongshore wave setup differences on the order of 10 cm over the 600-m extent of the surfzone instrument array in 1.5-m depth. Despite the moderate alongshore variability in wave heights, the southerly alongshore pressure gradient, associated with the alongshore variability of wave-driven set-up, was typically twice as large as the northerly radiation stress gradient forcing, consistent with the observed southerly currents during the week-long experiment. The magnitude of the alongshore forcing and resulting alongshore velocity is reproduced by the two-dimensional depth-averaged numerical model of Shi et al. (JGR-Oceans, 2011) . These observations, together with the numerical results, indicate that moderate alongshore wave height gradients (O(10− 4)) outside the surfzone owing to alongshore variations in the offshore bathymetry can result in alongshore pressure gradients that are larger than radiation stress gradients.

Downslope gravity-driven sediment transport smooths steep nearshore bathymetric features, such as channels, bars, troughs, cusps, mounds, pits, scarps, and bedforms. Downslope transport appears approximately as a diffusive term in the sediment continuity equation predicting changes in bed level, with a morphological diffusivity controlling the rate of seafloor smoothing. Despite the importance of surfzone sediment transport and morphological evolution, the size of the downslope transport term in nearshore models varies widely, and theories have not been tested with field measurements. Here observations of the infill of large excavated holes in an energetic inner surf zone provide the first opportunity to infer the morphological diffusivity in the field. The estimated diffusion coefficient is consistent with a theoretical bedload morphological diffusivity that scales with the three-halves power of the representative bed shear stress.

Observations of water levels, winds, waves, and currents in Katama Bay, Edgartown Channel, and Katama Inlet on Martha׳s Vineyard, Massachusetts are used to test the hypothesis that wave forcing is important to circulation in inlet channels of two-inlet systems and to water levels in the bay between the inlets. Katama Bay is connected to the Atlantic Ocean via Katama Inlet and to Vineyard Sound via Edgartown Channel. A numerical model based on the momentum and continuity equations that uses measured bathymetry and is driven with observed water levels in the ocean and sound, ocean waves, and local winds predicts the currents observed in Katama Inlet more accurately when wave forcing is included than when waves are ignored. During Hurricanes Irene and Sandy, when incident (12-m water depth) significant wave heights were greater than 5 m, breaking-wave cross-shore (along-inlet-channel) radiation stress gradients enhanced flows from the ocean into the bay during flood tides, and reduced (almost to zero during Irene) flows out of the bay during ebb tides. Model simulations without the effects of waves predict net discharge from the sound to the ocean both during Hurricane Irene and over a 1-month period with a range of conditions. In contrast, simulations that include wave forcing predict net discharge from the ocean to the sound, consistent with the observations.

Observations of waves, flows, and water levels collected for a month in and near a long, narrow, shallow (∼ 3000 m long, 1000 m wide, and 5 m deep), well-mixed ocean inlet are used to evaluate the subtidal (periods > 30 h) along-inlet momentum balance. Maximum tidal flows in the inlet were about 1.5 m/s and offshore significant wave heights ranged from about 0.5 to 2.5 m. The dominant terms in the local (across the km-wide ebb shoal) along-inlet momentum balance are the along-inlet pressure gradient, the bottom stress, and the wave radiation-stress gradient. Estimated nonlinear advective acceleration terms roughly balance in the channel. Onshore radiation-stress gradients owing to breaking waves enhance the flood flows into the inlet, especially during storms.

Surface gravity waves alter discharge and circulation near and within coastal inlets, affecting the exchange and transport of water masses, nutrients, sediments, and pollutants between inland waters and the ocean. Field observations and numerical simulations suggest that, during storms, wave forcing (radiation-stress gradients) owing to wave dissipation across the ebb shoal can enhance fluxes into the inlet (Bertin et al. 2009; Wargula et al. 2014). As a result, water levels may increase inside the bay (Olabarrieta et al. 2011; Dodet et al. 2013), creating an offshore-directed pressure gradient that may balance onshore fluxes during energetic waves, and may enhance offshore fluxes after the waves decrease. Spatial and tidal variability in water depths on the ebb shoal lead to complex wave breaking patterns that drive spatially and tidally asymmetric flows. Here, field observations and numerical simulations are used to evaluate the effects of waves on discharge and circulation, and the relative importance of wave radiation-stress and pressure gradients at an unstratified inlet during and following energetic waves.

Extreme storms can cause rapid morphological changes that pose high risk to society (Sallenger 2000). Semiempirical and process-based models often are used to simulate storm-induced coastal processes (Roelvink et al. 2009, Palmsten & Holman 2012, Stockdon et al. 2014, Overbeck et al. 2017). However, there are few observations of surfzone waves and currents during extreme storms. Therefore, parameterizations often are calibrated by minimizing model-data errors for pre- to post-storm bathymetric and topographic changes, and the accuracy of the simulated processes during the storm is unknown. Here, surf, swash, and dune observations collected near Duck, NC, USA, will be used to investigate wave processes and dune erosion during the passage of recent (2015-2017) Hurricanes.

Storms can have long-term impacts on the groundwater flows and subsurface salinity structure in coastal aquifers. Previous studies have shown that tides, wave driven infiltration, and storm surge elevate the groundwater level within the beach (Nielsen 1999, Cartwright 2004). The resulting bulge of high groundwater propagates inland, and may cause flooding up to several days after a storm has passed (Gallien 2016). In addition, waves, tides, and storm surge force saltwater to infiltrate into the aquifer above the fresher terrestrial groundwater, and storm-driven pulses of salinity may persist for months (Robinson et al. 2014). Here, observations of groundwater heads and salinities collected continuously for three years are used to examine the effects of ocean storms, wind-driven fluctuations in sound water levels, and morphological changes on a barrier island aquifer.

Estuarine systems range from highly stratified to well mixed, often passing through several states during a single tidal cycle. Here, the processes driving temporal and spatial variations of stratification are investigated on the broad, shallow, periodically inundated tidal flats (shoals) between the north and south forks of the Skagit River. Over a two-week period, observation-based estimates of the straining, advection, and mixing are in balance with the temporal changes in the stratification-induced potential energy anomaly at a mid-flat location. The water on the tidal flats does not completely de-stratify during the strong ebb, and thus the initial tongue of water crossing the flats on strong floods often is partly stratified, but becomes increasingly well mixed as the flood progresses. For nearly semi-diurnal tides, the maximum stratification occurs during mid-ebb tide. Although cross- and alongshore flows have similar magnitudes, the changes in stratification during semi-diurnal tides result primarily from cross-shore processes, similar to observations of narrow, strongly-forced salt-wedge estuaries. Stratification is stronger during tides with a large diurnal inequality (the elevations of the two daily low tides differ by more than 33% of the tidal range) than during nearly semi-diurnal tides (with low tide elevations that differ by less than 25% of the tidal range), and is a maximum in the middle of the weak flood that follows the small low. In contrast to prior observations in narrow estuaries, alongshore (roughly parallel to isopycnals) advection of stratified water is significant and contributes to the increased stratification during these tides. Furthermore, during the small low and weak flood, the strongly sheared (density-driven) flows, which are offshore-directed at the surface and onshore-directed at the bed, also contribute to the high levels of stratification. Temporal changes in stratification are similar across and along the flats. However, maximum stratification increases offshore and alongshore towards the north fork (the distributary channel closest to the instruments).

Tidal flats with limited vegetation provide valuable opportunities to investigate the linkages of hydrodynamics and sediment dynamics. A mudflat in southern Willapa Bay and a sandflat in Skagit Bay (both Washington state, USA) are characterized by processes with many similarities, but some differences. In particular, one imports mud and the other exports mud. Classic intertidal mechanisms (e.g., flood/ebb asymmetry, settling/scour lags) cause net landward transport onto the southern Willapa tidal flat, and the details of the interlinked processes are complex. Meandering channels with dendritic planform are the circulatory system for this site, and are entrenched in cohesive clayey silt. Tidal range and wind/wave conditions are similar in the two areas, but the direct discharges of fluvial freshwater and sediment are much greater for Skagit Bay. When coupled with the other processes operating there, mud export from the Skagit tidal flat is the net result. Braided channels dominate the Skagit site, and migrate freely through non-cohesive fine sand. An integrated summary is presented here for a multi-investigator study of these two areas, and the detailed results are described by the papers that follow.

Wind speeds and directions measured in June, July, and August, 2009 at 5 locations separated by up to about 5 km on the Skagit tidal flats (near La Conner, WA) are compared with predictions of a triple-nested Weather Research and Forecast (WRF) model with 1.3-km resolution. The model predicts the observed diurnal fluctuations of the wind speeds (bias −1 , root-mean-square error (rmse) −1 , correlation coefficient r 2 ≈0.9) and directions (bias r 2 >0.5). The observed and predicted minimum and maximum wind speeds occur in early morning and late afternoon, respectively. Wind speeds and directions are decorrelated over distances shorter than the length scale of the tidal flats (about 10 km). Observed and predicted wind directions are predominantly W and NW on the north flats, and S and SW on the south flats. The spatial and seasonal variability of the winds are investigated using model simulations.