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2. Dressed in Time

Author

Rebecca Mitchell, Helen Bradley Foster, Pamela Church-Gibson, Margaret Maynard, James Hall, Vicki Karaminas, Gwen O’Neal, Ted Polhemus, Valerie Steele, Lou Taylor, Karen Tranberg Hansen, Ruth Barnes, Claudine Griggs, Michaele Thurgood Haynes, Anne Brydon, Sandra Niessen, Dani Cavallaro, Alexandra Warwick, Judith Perani, Norma H. Wolff, Linda B. Arthur, Paul Jobling, Fadwa El Guindi, Thomas S. Abler, Linda Welters, Kim K.P. Johnson, Sharron J. Lennon, Barbara Burman, Annette Lynch, Antonia Young, David Muggleton, Nicola White, Brian J. McVeigh, Shaun Cole, Kate Ince, Ali Guy, Eileen Green, Maura Banim, William J. F. Keenan, Joanne Entwistle, Elizabeth Wilson, Leigh Summers, Paul Hodkinson, Leslie W. Rabine, Michael Carter, Ann Marie Leshkowich, Carla Jones, Kim K. P. Johnson, Susan J. Torntore, Joanne B. Eicher, Helen Foster Bradley, Donald Clay Johnson, Eugenia Paulicelli, Charlotte Suthrell, Irene Guenther, Yuniya Kawamura, Patricia Calefato, Ruth Barcan, Samantha Holland, Alexandra Palmer, Hazel Clark, Regina A. Root, Patricia A. Cunningham, Jennifer Craik, Alison L. Goodrum, Mitchell D. Strauss, Catherine M. Roach, Marybeth C. Stalp, Jonathan S. Marion, Dunja Brill, Juanjuan Wu, Brent Luvaas, Jianhua Zhao, Eric Silverman, Karen Hansen, D. Soyini Madison, Maria Mellins, Lynne Hume, Marie Riegels Melchior, Birgitta Svensson, Masafumi Monden, Alfonso McClendon, Phyllis G. Tortora, Barbara Brownie, Danny Graydon, Adam Geczy, Heike Jenss, Jenny Lantz, Louise Crewe, Sheila Cliffe, Abby Lillethun, Therèsa M. Winge, and Jenny Hall

Abstract

Through object-based case studies of garments from the ancient past through to the 21st century, Margaret Maynard reveals the countless ways the temporal is woven into our attire. From the physical effects of age on garments to their changing cultural significance, time and fashion are inextricably linked. Every garment has its own pace and narrative, and every dress practice is rich with temporal associations: ‘wearing’ time in the form wristwatches, marking key moments in time from marriage to death, ‘defying’ time with beauty products, preserving and re-imagining time through vintage, and concepts of ‘timeless’ and ‘classic’ styles. This ground-breaking book presents a complete rethinking of the study of global fashion history, revealing the complex nature of changing fashion when viewed through the lens of time and challenging Eurocentric approaches such as the periodization of style and the arbitrary division of ‘western’ and ‘non-western’ fashion. Fashion in Time is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion and dress history, material culture studies, cultural anthropology, archaeology and related fields.

Published
2022
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3. Libertine Fashion

Author

Rebecca Mitchell, Jenny Hall, Therèsa M. Winge, Linda Welters, Sheila Cliffe, Louise Crewe, Barbara Brownie, Jenny Lantz, Brent Luvaas, Heike Jenss, Yuniya Kawamura, Adam Geczy, Phyllis G. Tortora, Alfonso McClendon, Masafumi Monden, Marie Riegels Melchior, Lynne Hume, Maria Mellins, Karen Hansen, Eric Silverman, Jianhua Zhao, Annette Lynch, Juanjuan Wu, Joanne Entwistle, Dunja Brill, Jonathan S. Marion, Marybeth C. Stalp, Catherine M. Roach, Alison L. Goodrum, Jennifer Craik, Regina A. Root, Alexandra Palmer, Samantha Holland, Ruth Barcan, Patricia Calefato, Irene Guenther, Charlotte Suthrell, Eugenia Paulicelli, Helen Bradley Foster, Kim K. P. Johnson, Sandra Niessen, Michael Carter, Leslie W. Rabine, Paul Hodkinson, Leigh Summers, William J. F. Keenan, Linda B. Arthur, Ali Guy, Kate Ince, Shaun Cole, Brian J. McVeigh, Nicola White, David Muggleton, Antonia Young, Barbara Burman, Kim K.P. Johnson, Thomas S. Abler, Fadwa El Guindi, Paul Jobling, Judith Perani, Dani Cavallaro, Anne Brydon, Michaele Thurgood Haynes, Claudine Griggs, Ruth Barnes, Karen Tranberg Hansen, Lou Taylor, Valerie Steele, Ted Polhemus, Gwen O’Neal, Vicki Karaminas, James Hall, Pamela Church-Gibson, Djurdja Bartlett, Alexandra Warwick, Norma H. Wolff, Sharron J. Lennon, Eileen Green, Maura Banim, Elizabeth Wilson, Ann Marie Leshkowich, Carla Jones, Susan J. Torntore, Joanne B. Eicher, Donald Clay Johnson, Hazel Clark, Patricia A. Cunningham, Mitchell D. Strauss, D. Soyini Madison, Birgitta Svensson, Danny Graydon, and Abby Lillethun

Abstract

Libertine practices have long been associated with transgression and social deviance. This innovative book is the first to focus fully on the relationship between libertinism as a social phenomenon and as a form of fashion. Taking the reader from early modernity to the present day, Adam Geczy and Vicki Karaminas reveal how the connection between clothing and the taboo, the erotic, and the forbidden is at the heart of “libertine fashion”. Moving from the decadent courts of Charles II and Louis XV to the catwalks of the 21st century, Libertine Fashion examines literary and sartorial figures ranging from the Marquis de Sade and Lord Byron to Oscar Wilde, Josephine Baker, Colette, and Madonna. Focusing on libertinism as a sartorial practice and identity, this book traces the genealogy of the concept through the proto feminists of the English Reformation, the hedonistic decadents of the fin de siècle, and the Flappers of the Roaring 20s. The historical arc traverses the 1970s era of punk and glam, the shapeshifting personae of David Bowie, and the “disciplinary regimes” of Jean-Paul Gaultier. Looking at libertine practices and appearances with fresh eyes, this bracing and original book affords many new insights into transgressive style, and of the relationship between sexuality and clothing. Accessible and thoroughly researched, Libertine Fashion uses a multidisciplinary approach that draws on historical literature, film, fashion, philosophy, and popular culture. Offering a historical and philosophical grounding in contemporary forms of identity and dress, it is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion, gender, sexuality, and cultural studies.

Published
2020
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4. Three-Year, Randomized, Sham-Controlled Trial of Dexamethasone Intravitreal Implant in Patients with Diabetic Macular Edema

Author

David S. Boyer, 1 Young Hee Yoon, MD, PhD, 2 Rubens Belfort, Jr, MD, PhD, 3 Francesco Bandello, 4 Raj K. Maturi, 5 Albert J. Augustin, 6 Xiao Yan Li, 7 Harry Cui, 7 Yehia Hashad, 7 Scott M. Whitcup, MDThe MEAD Study Group Principal Investigators: Suel Abujamra, James Acton, Fareed Ali, Andrew Antoszyk, Albert J. Augustin, Carl C. Awh, Adiel Barak, Karl Ulrich Bartz Schmidt, Caroline R. Baumal, Rubens Belfort, J.r., Muna Bhende, William Z. Bridges, David M. Brown, Trevor Carmichael, Ken Carnevale, Antonio M. Casella, Tom Chang, Daniel Chechik, San Ni Chen, Lawrence P. Chong, Victor Chong, Joel Corwin, Catherine Creuzot Garcher, Alan Cruess, Mark Daniell, Marcos P. de Avila, Haroldo Vieira de Moraes, Robert G. Devenyi, Bernard H. Doft, Mark Donaldson, Richard Dreyer, Dean Eliott, Harry M. Engel, Jan Ernest, Thomas F. Essman, Philip M. Falcone, Sharon Fekrat, Joseph R. Ferencz, Joao L. Ferreira, Joao Figueira, Ivan Fiser, Bradley Foster, Gregory M. Fox, William R. Freeman, S. P. Garg, Mark Gillies, David Glaser, Burton G. Goldstein, Andre M. V. Gomes, John R. Gonder, Lingam Gopal, Petrus Gous, Amod Gupta, Anurag Gupta, Lawrence Halperin, Dennis Han, Seenu M. Hariprasad, Frank G. Holz, Peter Kaiser, Bohdana Kalvodova, Barrett Katz, Randy S. Katz, Dariusz Kecik, Judianne Kellaway, Itamar Klemperer, Baruch Kuppermann, Paolo Lanzetta, Rosangela Lattanzio, Won Ki Lee, John Lehr, Monique Leys, Isaac Loose, Andrew Lotery, Da Wen Lu, Paul McCartney, Ajit B. Majji, Jose A. Martinez, Pascale Massin, Raj K. Maturi, Ugo Menchini, Geeta Menon, Mark Michels, Edoardo Midena, James Miller, Paul Mitchell, Joseph Moisseiev, Lawrence Morse, Rafael Navarro, Janos Nemeth, Henry Newland, Richard Newsom, John Nichols, Juan Orellana, Nicola Orzalesi, Augusto Paranhos, Robert Park, Susanna Park, Maurizio Battaglia Parodi, Peter R. Pavan, James Peace, Don J. Perez Ortiz, Ayala Pollack, Kim Ramaswamy, Ramakrishna Ratnakaram, Giuseppe Ravalico, Jiri Rehak, Kourous Rezaei, Stanislao Rizzo, Francisco J. Rodriguez Alvira, Jean Paul Romanet, Steven Rose, Richard B. Rosen, Luca Rossetti, Jose Maria Ruiz Moreno, SriniVas Sadda, Kenneth Sall, Dirk Sandner, Alvaro Fernandez Vega Sanz, Gil Sartani, Stefanie Schmickler, Steven D. Schwartz, Y. R. Sharma, Shwu Jiuan Sheu, Michael Singer, Sobha Sivaprasad, Gisele Soubrane, Petr Soucek, Eric H. Souied, Giovanni Staurenghi, Jan Studnicka, Marta Suarez Figueroa, Walter Y. Takahashi, Patrick L. Tsai, Lawrence J. Ulanski, Harvey Uy, Monica Varano, Miroslav Veith, Igor Vicha, Francesco Viola, Linda Visser, Dov Weinberger, Glenn L. Wing, Edmund Wong, Tien Wong, Edward Wylegala, Jiong Yan, Young Hee Yoon, Lucy H. Young, Hyeong G. Yu, Ingrid E. Zimmer Galler, TOGNETTO, DANIELE, Boyer, D, Yoon, Yh, Belfort, R, Bandello, Francesco, Maturi, Rk, Augustin, Aj, Li, Xy, Cui, H, Hashad, Y, Whitcup, Sm, David S., Boyer, Md, 1 Young Hee, Yoon, Md, Phd, 2 Rubens, Belfort, Jr, Md, Phd, 3 Francesco, Bandello, 4 Raj K., Maturi, 5 Albert J., Augustin, 6 Xiao Yan, Li, 7 Harry, Cui, Ms, 7 Yehia, Hashad, 7 Scott M., Whitcup, MDThe MEAD Study Group Principal Investigators: Suel, Abujamra, James, Acton, Fareed, Ali, Andrew, Antoszyk, Albert J., Augustin, Carl C., Awh, Adiel, Barak, Karl Ulrich Bartz, Schmidt, Caroline R., Baumal, Rubens, Belfort, J., R., Muna, Bhende, William Z., Bridge, David M., Brown, Trevor, Carmichael, Ken, Carnevale, Antonio M., Casella, Tom, Chang, Daniel, Chechik, San Ni, Chen, Lawrence P., Chong, Victor, Chong, Joel, Corwin, Catherine Creuzot, Garcher, Alan, Crue, Mark, Daniell, Marcos P., de Avila, Haroldo Vieira de, Morae, Robert G., Devenyi, Bernard H., Doft, Mark, Donaldson, Richard, Dreyer, Dean, Eliott, Harry M., Engel, Jan, Ernest, Thomas F., Essman, Philip M., Falcone, Sharon, Fekrat, Joseph R., Ferencz, Joao L., Ferreira, Joao, Figueira, Ivan, Fiser, Bradley, Foster, Gregory M., Fox, William R., Freeman, S. P., Garg, Mark, Gillie, David, Glaser, Burton G., Goldstein, Andre M. V., Gome, John R., Gonder, Lingam, Gopal, Petrus, Gou, Amod, Gupta, Anurag, Gupta, Lawrence, Halperin, Dennis, Han, Seenu M., Hariprasad, Frank G., Holz, Peter, Kaiser, Bohdana, Kalvodova, Barrett, Katz, Randy S., Katz, Dariusz, Kecik, Judianne, Kellaway, Itamar, Klemperer, Baruch, Kuppermann, Paolo, Lanzetta, Rosangela, Lattanzio, Won Ki, Lee, John, Lehr, Monique, Ley, Isaac, Loose, Andrew, Lotery, Da Wen, Lu, Paul, Mccartney, Ajit B., Majji, Jose A., Martinez, Pascale, Massin, Raj K., Maturi, Ugo, Menchini, Geeta, Menon, Mark, Michel, Edoardo, Midena, James, Miller, Paul, Mitchell, Joseph, Moisseiev, Lawrence, Morse, Rafael, Navarro, Janos, Nemeth, Henry, Newland, Richard, Newsom, John, Nichol, Juan, Orellana, Nicola, Orzalesi, Augusto, Paranho, Robert, Park, Susanna, Park, Maurizio Battaglia, Parodi, Peter R., Pavan, James, Peace, Don J., Perez Ortiz, Ayala, Pollack, Kim, Ramaswamy, Ramakrishna, Ratnakaram, Giuseppe, Ravalico, Jiri, Rehak, Kourous, Rezaei, Stanislao, Rizzo, Francisco J., Rodriguez Alvira, Jean Paul, Romanet, Steven, Rose, Richard B., Rosen, Luca, Rossetti, Jose Maria Ruiz, Moreno, Srinivas, Sadda, Kenneth, Sall, Dirk, Sandner, Alvaro Fernandez Vega, Sanz, Gil, Sartani, Stefanie, Schmickler, Steven D., Schwartz, Y. R., Sharma, Shwu Jiuan, Sheu, Michael, Singer, Sobha, Sivaprasad, Gisele, Soubrane, Petr, Soucek, Eric H., Souied, Giovanni, Staurenghi, Jan, Studnicka, Marta Suarez, Figueroa, Walter Y., Takahashi, Tognetto, Daniele, Patrick L., Tsai, Lawrence J., Ulanski, Ii, Harvey, Uy, Monica, Varano, Miroslav, Veith, Igor, Vicha, Francesco, Viola, Linda, Visser, Dov, Weinberger, Glenn L., Wing, Edmund, Wong, Tien, Wong, Edward, Wylegala, Jiong, Yan, Young Hee, Yoon, Lucy H., Young, Hyeong G., Yu, and Ingrid E., Zimmer Galler

Subjects
Adult, Male, Intraocular pressure, Triamcinolone acetonide, Visual acuity, genetic structures, Anti-Inflammatory Agents, Visual Acuity, Phases of clinical research, Dexamethasone, Macular Edema, law.invention, Randomized controlled trial, law, Health Sciences, Dexamethasone Intravitreal Implant (Ozurdex, Dexamethasone Intravitreal Implant, Humans, Medicine, Aged, Aged, 80 and over, Drug Implants, Diabetic Retinopathy, business.industry, Area under the curve, Middle Aged, Ophthalmology, DEX implant Diabetic Macular Edemat, Area Under Curve, Anesthesia, Intravitreal Injections, Dexamethasone Intravitreal Implant (Ozurdex, DEX implant Diabetic Macular Edemat, Female, Implant, medicine.symptom, business, hormones, hormone substitutes, and hormone antagonists, medicine.drug
Abstract

Purpose: To evaluate the safety and efficacy of dexamethasone intravitreal implant (Ozurdex, DEX implant) 0.7 and 0.35 mg in the treatment of patients with diabetic macular edema (DME).Design: Two randomized, multicenter, masked, sham-controlled, phase III clinical trials with identical protocols were conducted. Data were pooled for analysis.Participants: Patients (n = 1048) with DME, best-corrected visual acuity (BCVA) of 20/50 to 20/200 Snellen equivalent, and central retinal thickness (CRT) of ≥300 μm by optical coherence tomography.Methods: Patients were randomized in a 1:1:1 ratio to study treatment with DEX implant 0.7 mg, DEX implant 0.35 mg, or sham procedure and followed for 3 years (or 39 months for patients treated at month 36) at ≤40 scheduled visits. Patients who met retreatment eligibility criteria could be retreated no more often than every 6 months.Main Outcome Measures: The predefined primary efficacy endpoint for the United States Food and Drug Administration was achievement of ≥15-letter improvement in BCVA from baseline at study end. Safety measures included adverse events and intraocular pressure (IOP).Results: Mean number of treatments received over 3 years was 4.1, 4.4, and 3.3 with DEX implant 0.7 mg, DEX implant 0.35 mg, and sham, respectively. The percentage of patients with ≥15-letter improvement in BCVA from baseline at study end was greater with DEX implant 0.7 mg (22.2%) and DEX implant 0.35 mg (18.4%) than sham (12.0%; P ≤ 0.018). Mean average reduction in CRT from baseline was greater with DEX implant 0.7 mg (−111.6 μm) and DEX implant 0.35 mg (−107.9 μm) than sham (−41.9 μm; P < 0.001). Rates of cataract-related adverse events in phakic eyes were 67.9%, 64.1%, and 20.4% in the DEX implant 0.7 mg, DEX implant 0.35 mg, and sham groups, respectively. Increases in IOP were usually controlled with medication or no therapy; only 2 patients (0.6%) in the DEX implant 0.7 mg group and 1 (0.3%) in the DEX implant 0.35 mg group required trabeculectomy.Conclusions: The DEX implant 0.7 mg and 0.35 mg met the primary efficacy endpoint for improvement in BCVA. The safety profile was acceptable and consistent with previous reports.

Published
2014
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8. Greek Sparto: Past and Present

Author

Helen Bradley Foster

Subjects
History, business.industry, General Arts and Humanities, Broom, Long period, Field research, Ancient history, Clothing, business, Greeks, Archaeological evidence
Abstract

Sparto, a perennial broom, grows wild in the mountainous and semi-mountainous regions of the Mediterranean. Throughout antiquity Greeks processed the plant for its fibers, which they hand braided and loom wove into rope and textiles. Archaeological material and ancient testimonia demonstrate the extensive use of sparto as a raw material in Greek culture over a long period. Nevertheless, scholars consistently overlook the widespread exploitation of sparto in the manufacture of everyday objects in antiquity. However, the plant's importance may be properly assessed by modern Greeks. My field research in the Western Peloponesos reveals that the utilization and processing of sparto in recent times follows that described in ancient sources. The earliest archaeological evidence from sparto comes from a late, third-century (BC) Neolithic cave in Spain and includes various articles of clothing. The earliest Greek evidence comes from Homer who refers to ships' cords as “sparto” in the Illiad. Thereafter, a ...

Published
2006
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26. Wedding Dress Across Cultures

Author

Donald Clay Johnson and Helen Bradley Foster

Subjects
Adornment, History, language, Identity (social science), Gujarati, Art history, Performance art, Dowry, Carnivalesque, Inupiaq, Cartography, language.human_language, Theme (narrative)
Abstract

1. Church, Kathryn (Independent Scholar, Toronto, Canada) "Something plain and simple? Unpacking custom-made wedding dresses from western Canada, 1950-1995." 2. Martin, Cyd (University of Alaska, Fairbanks), "Satin dresses and caribou kamiks: negotiation of tradition in northern Alaska Inupiaq weddings." 3. Suga, Masami (Independent scholar, St. Paul, Minnesota), "Packaged in Japan: elite weddings in Osaka." 4. Hong, Na Young (Ewha Women's University, Seoul, Korea), "Korean wedding dress from the Chosun Dynasty (1392-1910) to the present." 5. Edwards, Eiluned Moir (De Montford University), "Marriage and dowry customs of the Rabadi of Kachchh: evolving traditions." 6. Johnson, Donald Clay (University of Minnesota, Minneapolis), "Pragmatism and enigmas: the Panetar and Gharcholu saris in Gujarati weddings." 7. Kidd, Laura (Southern Illinois University, Carbondale, Lombuso S. Khoza, Southern Illinois University), "Swazi bridal attire: culture, traditions, customs." 8. Becker, Cynthia (University of St. Thomas, St. Paul, Minnesota), "Gender, identity, and Moroccan weddings: the adornment of the Ait Khabhash Berber bride and groom." 9. Foster, Helen Bradley (College of Visual Arts, St. Paul, Minnesota), "An Athenian wedding, year 2000." 10. Mee, Janice (De Montford University, Leicester, England, Irina Safronova, St. Petersburg State University of Technology and Design), "An historic perspective of English and Soviet bridalwear between 1900 and 1960." 11. Meisch, Lynn A. (St. Mary's College of California, Moraga), "He gave her sandals and she gave him a tunic: cloth and weddings in the Andes." 12. Williams, Patricia (University of Wisconsin-Stevens Point), "Slavic wedding customs on two continents." 13. Demaray, Elyse (Iowa State University, Ames, Melody Keim-Shenk, Iowa State University), "Always remembering the motherland: Tai Dam wedding textiles and dress." 14. Winge, Theresa (and Eicher, Joanne, both University of Minnesota), "The groom wore a kilt: carnivalesque and theme weddings."

Published
2003
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31. Marriage and Dowry Customs of the Rabari of Kutch: Evolving Traditions.

Author

Helen, Bradley Foster, Donald, Clay, Edwards, Eiluned, Helen, Bradley Foster, Donald, Clay, and Edwards, Eiluned

Abstract

This chapter delineates the marriage customs of the Rabari nomads of Kachchh, Gujarat. It identifies the significance of the wedding dress, and analyses changes to dress over the past 15 years. By focussing on marriage, it considers how the material culture of rituals and expressions of faith reflects re-negotiations of Rabari identity. This is the first time that the culture of India’s nomads has been analysed by cross-referencing socio-economic and religious practices, political policy, personal testimony and material expressions. In this respect, it augments the canon on socio-religious practices in India and material culture linked to those practices explored in the “great tradition” of temple complexes, devotional paintings and sculpture but is distinct from these because of its emphasis on oral history and vernacular religious expression. Offering a unique perspective on marriage in India, this chapter analyses the nature and substance of a Rabari dowry and reveals the complexities of gift-giving on the subcontinent. It identifies the symbolic significance of dowry for Rabaris and compares this to the role of textiles more broadly in South Asia. It also makes explicit the economic value of textiles in the property transfers of marriage and how this aspect of textiles features in debates amongst Rabaris about re-shaping individual and community identity.

Published
2003

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