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Quality seals being precisely defined, transparent and validated could help consumers in their decision making. This applies particularly for new categories of cosmetics e.g. those related to the human skin microbiome The knowledge on the human skin's microbiome grows rapidly and a huge number of cosmetic products with 'microbiome' claims are now seen on the global market. Developing a credible and valid quality seal for supporting approved claims on skin microbiome is challenging. Here we propose standards for a quality seal for cosmetic products claiming to be 'microbiome friendly'. We assume that such a claim can be made if: there is no significant change in microbial diversity as measured by e.g. the Shannon Index and there is also no significant dissimilarity between untreated and treated skin as measured by main component analysis (e.g. Unifrac distances); Also, it should be controlled that there is no strong increase or decrease in the abundance of single microbe genera. Further, evaluation of the skin in terms of clinical safety, skin pH and barrier integrity should also be performed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of SOFW Journal (German version) is the property of Verlag fuer chemische Industrie H. Ziolkowsky GmbH and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of International Journal of Cosmetic Science is the property of Wiley-Blackwell and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

It is often debated that the protection against solar-induced erythema under real conditions is dependent upon the amount of sunscreen applied. It is believed that when too little is applied a lower sun protection than indicated on the label will result. The aim of this study was to quantify this effect. In this multicenter study, the influence of three different amounts (0.5, 1.0, 2.0 mg/cm2) of three commercial sunscreen products in three reliable test centers was investigated according to the test protocol of The International Sun Protection Factor Test Method. The main result was a linear dependence of the SPF on the quantity applied. Taking into consideration the volunteer-specific variations, an exponential dependence of confidence interval of the in vivo SPF and amount applied was found. The highest amount applied (2.0 mg/cm2) was linked to the lowest confidence intervals. Thus, from the point of view of producing reliable and reproducible in vivo results under laboratory conditions, the recommendation of this multicenter study is an application quantity of 2.0 mg/cm2. Copyright © 2007 S. Karger AG, Basel [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Introduction: Increased skin pH values in patients with atopic dermatitis (AD) contribute to poor antimicrobial and permeability barrier functions of the skin. In practice, the majority of topical preparations available for dry skin conditions do not provide sufficient pH and buffering capacity for maintaining optimum skin surface conditions. To address this issue, we tested a novel zinc lactobionate preparation to determine whether the regular application would lower skin surface pH, and in doing so improve the condition of lesional skin., Methods: The assessment for local severity of AD was done with the Scoring Atopic Dermatitis Index (SCORAD) and skin dryness was assessed by capacitance measurement., Results: The results showed that the test product lowered skin pH and improved AD skin lesions from moderate to mild during 2 weeks of application. In the treated area a lowered pH of about 0.85 units was found. Together with the lowering of pH, the local SCORAD significantly improved from 8.3 on average down to 4.0, while in the untreated area, only a slight improvement (from 8.2 to 6.4) was found., Conclusion: Synergistic effects of the test product's pH lowering and emollient properties might explain the observed improvements in clinical signs of AD and further research against a comparator would allow the specific contribution of pH modulation to these improvements to be unambiguously isolated., (© 2024 The Author(s). Published by S. Karger AG, Basel.)

Objective: The use of skin care formulations with acidic pHs is seen as an effective method to maintain the acidic mantel of the skin; however, because the skin pH varies depending on the area of the body and as data are lacking for the skin pH of the feet, there was a need to examine whether this assumption holds true for skin care formulations designed for the foot. Thus, three foot creams formulated with a neutral, acidic or alkaline pH were compared with each other as well as to an untreated control group in order to analyse their impact on skin pH, hydration and general skin condition., Methods: An exploratory clinical investigation with 60 enrolled subjects, half of whom had a diagnosis of diabetes (type 1 or type 2), was undertaken. The investigation followed a randomized, double-blind, balanced incomplete block design (BIBD) including intra-individual comparison (before and after treatment). Evaluations of skin pH and hydration were carried out using a pH meter and a Corneometer respectively. Objective evaluation of skin condition for efficacy assessment was performed by a trained grader. For tolerability evaluation, objective and subjective dermatological assessments were performed., Results: At the end of the treatment period, the skin pH was largely unchanged at five out of six of the test areas, with the mean value for each treatment group using test products showing similar fluctuations as the untreated control group. Furthermore, the skin condition parameters studied all improved by a comparable magnitude for each of the treatment groups using the test products, whereas the untreated control group experienced a worsening of the skin condition parameters., Conclusions: The results of this investigation suggest that where the skin of the foot is concerned, the pH of skin care formulations has no (physiologically) relevant influence on the skin's pH in either diabetic or non-diabetic subjects. Furthermore, the expectation that acidic formulations would be more beneficial for the skin's condition was not found to hold true for the skin of the foot, as no significant difference was observed between the performance of the three test products investigated in this study., (© 2023 The Authors. International Journal of Cosmetic Science published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)

Objective: Tape stripping is an often-used non-invasive destructive method to investigate the skin penetration of a substance. In recent years, however, the suitability of confocal Raman spectroscopy (CRS) as a non-invasive method of non-destructive examination of the skin has become increasingly apparent. In this study, we compared invasion and depletion penetration and permeation kinetics of a 2% caffeine solution with and without 1,2-pentanediol as a penetration enhancer measured with CRS and tape stripping., Methods: Porcine skin was used for tape stripping and human skin for CRS. 2% caffeine solution was applied to the skin for different incubation times. Human skin was then examined by CRS while caffeine was extracted from porcine skin and quantified via reverse-phase HPLC. Fluxes were also measured and calculated by sum of the total amounts of caffeine penetrated into the skin., Results: Without penetration enhancers, there is hardly any difference between the penetration profiles of the two measurement methods for invasion, but the curves for depletion are different. Furthermore, the calculated flux values for the invasion are almost identical, but for the depletion the tape stripping values are about twice as high as the CRS values., Conclusion: The relevance of conducting invasion and depletion studies became clear and was able to show the still existing problems in the comparability of CRS and tape stripping., (© 2022 The Authors. International Journal of Cosmetic Science published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)

Background: The purpose of this pilot study was to provide information about the washout-dependent depletion of important skin components in the horny layer of the scalp. They were taken as markers for scalp drying effects of cosmetic cleansing products and were measured directly in vivo., Method: In vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy was used to measure the depletion of the total natural moisturizing factor (total NMF) and some of its components (urea and lactic acid) as well as a fraction of stratum corneum lipids, after repeated washing with a standard shampoo on the human scalp., Results: The measurements showed a reduction in the amount of NMF and lipids of the stratum corneum caused by repeated shampooing., Conclusion: Confocal Raman spectroscopy is an innovative technology that can be used successfully in vivo on the hairy scalp. The loss of the most important skin components caused by hair washing can be quantified directly with this technology. The method is valuable to support the development cosmetic cleansing products, as it is suitable to directly compare the effects of different product candidates on the human scalp in a most realistic way., (© 2022 The Authors. Skin Research and Technology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Background: Long-term use of cigarettes can result in localised staining and aging of smokers' skin. The use of tobacco heating products (THPs) and electronic cigarettes (ECs) has grown on a global scale; however, the long-term effect of these products' aerosols on consumers' skin is unknown. This pilot clinical study aimed to determine whether THP or EC aerosol exposure results in skin staining or activation of biomarkers associated with oxidative stress., Materials and Methods: Eight areas were identified on the backs of 10 subjects. Two areas were used for air control, and two areas exposed to 32-puffs of cigarette smoke (CS), THP or EC aerosols, which were delivered to the skin using a 3-cm diameter exposure chamber and smoke engine. Skin colour was measured using a Chromameter. Squalene (SQ), SQ monohydroperoxide (SQOOH) and malondialdehyde (MDA) levels were measured in sebum samples by mass spectrometry and catalase colorimetry., Results: CS exposure significantly increased skin staining, SQOOH and MDA levels and SQOOH/SQ ratio. THP and EC values were significantly lower than CS; EC values being comparable to air control. THP values were comparable to EC and air control at all endpoints, apart from skin staining. SQ and catalase levels did not change with exposure., Conclusions: CS stained skin and activated pathways known to be associated with skin damage. THPs and ECs produced significantly lower values, suggesting they could offer hygiene and cosmetic benefits for consumers who switch exclusively from smoking cigarettes. Further studies are required to assess longer-term effects of ECs and THPs on skin function., (© 2021 The Authors. Skin Research and Technology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Background: Skin damage arising from pollutants in gaseous and particulate matter forms is mainly mediated by oxidative stress. The pollutants directly or indirectly generate free radicals on and in the skin, leading, for example, to MMP up-regulation and damage of collagen fibers. Antioxidants and chelators are used in anti-pollution cosmetics to reduce the harmful effects of free radical generation., Materials and Methods: We investigated the efficacy of two antioxidants and one chelator in an anti-pollution cigarette smoke model. Free radical generation was measured directly after UV and cigarette smoke exposure ex vivo on pig skin (slaughterhouse waste), by use of Electron Spin Resonance (ESR). Effects of cigarette smoke were compared to those of Urban Dust (NIST-standard). ESR was also used to measure the copper chelation activity of the test products. Following cigarette smoke application in vivo, two markers of lipid peroxidation malondialdehyde (MDA), and squalene monohydroperoxide (SQOOH), were measured from swab solutions taken from the smoke-exposed skin sites., Results: EDTA generated no effect and the non-chelator antioxidant Tocopherol only small antioxidant effects after exposed to cigarette smoke ex vivo as well as in vivo. Only the hydrophilic phenylethanoid H1 showed significant effects. A clear reduction of free radicals ex vivo and further a significant reduction of in vivo lipid peroxide formation was measured., Conclusion: The cigarette smoke model is an ideal method for in vivo assessment of anti-pollution efficacy of topical products with close relation to the real situation of subjects exposed to urban pollution. Further research is required to better understand the role of chelators in anti-pollution cosmetics., (© 2021 John Wiley & Sons A/S. Published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Background: Outdoor workers (OW) are highly exposed to solar ultraviolet radiation (UVR) and thus at increased risk for developing skin cancer. An essential part of an overall strategy to reduce workplace UVR-exposure to OW's skin is the usage of sunscreens. However, compliance with regular sunscreen usage seems to be low, as products are usually designed for recreational sun exposure and thus do not meet the requirements of physically active OW. To date, no standardized test procedures assess the suitability of sunscreens for professional use. The aim of this pilot study was to develop standardized methods of testing secondary performance attributes (PA) to represent real-life working conditions of outdoor work., Methods: Ten sunscreen products, carefully selected after a detailed market survey of all relevant producers available on the German market, were evaluated regarding their suitability for professional outdoor work on 24 healthy volunteers in a newly designed test procedure. In addition to three standardized efficacy characteristics, i.e., sun protection factor, water-resistance, and UVA protection, we evaluated each PA involving parameters typically associated with outdoor workplaces., Results: We developed standardized methods for objectifying the suitability of sunscreen products for professional outdoor work. The test procedures used are well feasible and appropriate for testing the PA because they represent practical working conditions in detail - although the degree of discriminability of single test methods varied. The claimed sun protection factor (SPF) of the products was confirmed; bio-stability of the SPF after physical activity was achieved in most cases. While most products hardly irritate the eyes and are quickly absorbed, the evaluation of the subjective skin feeling and non-slip grip is inconsistent., Conclusions: In this pilot study, for the first time secondary PA are defined and examined. Although further objectification of the PA assessment as well as the establishment of minimum standards should be sought, the new methods could already complement the so far mandatory labels and in this way provide a significant impetus for the current scientific and political focus on the improvement of occupational health in highly UVR-exposed OW.

Introduction: Antivirals and occlusive lip patches are key treatments for cold sores. Additional therapeutic options, and validated methods to evaluate these, are needed., Methods: This exploratory, double-blind, single-center study aimed to evaluate a novel lip patch containing the antiviral aciclovir (ACV) using noninvasive methods for measuring cold sore-associated inflammation. Healthy subjects with ultraviolet radiation (UVR)-induced cold sores were randomized to 10 days' treatment with a lip patch containing ACV (N = 12) or without ACV (N = 13). Outcome measures included blood flux (field laser perfusion imaging, FLPI), skin temperature (thermography), and skin redness (high-resolution color photography, HRCP)., Results: Mean blood flux (in perfusion units) and skin temperature (in °C/pixel) were higher for cold sores versus intrasubject control regions. For ACV versus placebo patches, skin temperature was higher for ACV with total day 1-5 mean values of 2.6 versus 0.5 (p = 0.036) and day 1-10 mean values of 3.2 versus 0.8 (p = 0.049). Conversely, mean total episode blood flux values over days 1-5 were lower for ACV versus placebo patch (flux 2227 versus 2939, p = 0.340) and remained lower over days 1-10 (flux ACV 810 versus placebo 961, p = 0.404). HRCP failed to discriminate cold sores from control regions or between treatments. Subject-reported pain/soreness, itching, and burning were generally lower with ACV patch., Conclusions: FLPI reliably measures cold sore-related inflammation and thermography heat radiating from the skin. HRCP was of little value., Trial Registration: NCT01653509.