Search

Frederic Flament,1 Roland Bazin,2 Huixia Qiu,3 Chengda Ye,3 Sabine Laquieze,4 Virginie Rubert,1 Aurelie Decroux,1 Elisa Simonpietri,5 Bertrand Piot1 1L'Oreal Research and Innovation, Paris, France; 2RB Consult, Bievres, France; 3L'Oreal Research and Innovation, Shanghai, People's Republic of China; 4Private Dermatology Consultancy, Montpellier, France; 5Biotherm International, Levallois-Perret, France Abstract: A new reference clinical atlas of facial signs dedicated to photoaging was applied to 301 Chinese women of various ages through standardized photographs. Such approach aimed at better describing the facial changes induced by both real/chronological age and sun exposure and their respective impact on two subcohorts of different behavior with regard to sun exposure. A total of 28 various facial signs were individually graded according to their severity by a panel of experts, and a perceived apparent age of each subject was assessed. Results showed that the severity of major signs significantly increased rather linearly with age, with a higher rate in sun-exposed subjects as compared with subjects who regularly avoid sun exposure. The severity of facial signs, all impacted by sun exposure, better correlated with perceived apparent age than real/chronological age. The protocol used in the present work, similar to that previously applied to two cohorts of French women, assigned a greater impact of sun exposure in the facial aging signs of Asian women – all clinical signs are influenced by extrinsic factors – as compared with Caucasian women of comparable ages, likely related to much more intense ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Keywords: photoaging, clinical evaluation, UV, perceived apparent age, solar exposure

Frederic Flament,1 Ghislain Francois,1 Huixia Qiu,2 Chengda Ye,2 Tomoo Hanaya,3 Dominique Batisse,3 Suzy Cointereau-Chardon,1 Mirela Donato Gianeti Seixas,4 Susi Elaine Dal Belo,4 Roland Bazin5 1Department of Applied Research and Development, L’Oreal Research and Innovation, Paris, France; 2Department of Applied Research and Development, L’Oreal Research and Innovation, Shanghai, People’s Republic of China; 3Department of Applied Research and Development, L’Oreal Research and Innovation, Tokyo, Japan; 4Department of Applied Research and Development, L’Oreal Research and Innovation, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil; 5RB Consult, Bievres, France Abstract: Skin pores (SP), as they are called by laymen, are common and benign features mostly located on the face (nose, cheeks, etc) that generate many aesthetic concerns or complaints. Despite the prevalence of skin pores, related literature is scarce. With the aim of describing the prevalence of skin pores and anatomic features among ethnic groups, a dermatoscopic instrument, using polarized lighting, coupled to a digital camera recorded the major features of skin pores (size, density, coverage) on the cheeks of 2,585 women in different countries and continents. A detection threshold of 250 µm, correlated to clinical scorings by experts, was input into a specific software to further allow for automatic counting of the SP density (N/cm2) and determination of their respective sizes in mm2. Integrating both criteria also led to establishing the relative part of the skin surface (as a percentage) that is actually covered by SP on cheeks. The results showed that the values of respective sizes, densities, and skin coverage: 1) were recorded in all studied subjects; 2) varied greatly with ethnicity; 3) plateaued with age in most cases; and 4) globally reflected self-assessment by subjects, in particular those who self-declare having “enlarged pores” like Brazilian women. Inversely, Chinese women were clearly distinct from other ethnicities in having very low density and sizes. Analyzing the present results suggests that facial skin pore’s morphology as perceived by human eye less result from functional criteria of associated appendages such as sebaceous glands. To what extent skin pores may be viewed as additional criteria of a photo-altered skin is an issue to be further addressed. Keywords: aging, clinical evaluation, ethnicity, imperfections, oily skin

Frederic Flament,1 Roland Bazin,2 Sabine Laquieze,3 Virginie Rubert,1 Elisa Simonpietri,4 Bertrand Piot1 1Department of Applied Research and Development, L'Oreal Research and Innovation, Paris, France; 2RB Consult, Bievres, France; 3Private Dermatology Consultancy Practice, Montpellier, France; 4BIOTHERM International, Levallois-Perret, France Objectives: Aging signs can be classified into four main categories: wrinkles/texture, lack of firmness of cutaneous tissues (ptosis), vascular disorders, and pigmentation heterogeneities. During a lifetime, skin will change in appearance and structure not only because of chronological and intrinsic processes but also due to several external factors such as gravity, sun and ultraviolet exposure, and high levels of pollution; or lifestyle factors that have important and obvious effects on skin aging, such as diet, tobacco, illness, or stress. The effect of these external factors leads to progressive degradations of tegument that appear with different kinetics. The aim of this study was to clinically quantify the effect of sun exposure on facial aging in terms of the appearance of new specific signs or in terms of increasing the classical signs of aging. Materials and methods: This study was carried out on 298 Caucasian women from 30 years to 78 years old. The participants were divided into two groups according to their sun exposure history: 157 women were characterized as sun-seeking, and the other 141 were classified as sun-phobic. This division was made possible by dermatologist grading of heliodermal status on the basis of several observations of classic criteria: wrinkles, sagging, pigmentation heterogeneities, vascular disorders, elastosis, and so on. This work was an opportunity to complete clinical photographic tools by adding in our portfolio new scales for signs observed in the two groups. Thus, 22 clinical parameters were investigated by a panel of twelve trained experts to characterize each woman's face regarding standardized photographic scales, and thus describe the aging process. Results: By calculating statistical correlations between the four clinical clusters (wrinkles/texture, ptosis, vascular disorders, and pigmentation disorders), and real age and apparent age on the one hand and heliodermal status on the other hand, we identified a link between each clinical cluster and aging and the photoaging process. By comparing evaluations of clinical signs between the two groups for each 10-year cluster, we demonstrated that whatever the age, a prevalence of pigmentation disorders for the sun-seeking group (ie, pigmentation) is strongly linked to ultraviolet exposure. Meanwhile, clinical signs of ptosis are linked more to chronological aging and do not present differences between the two groups, nor, therefore, photoaging. Wrinkles and texture are affected by the two aging processes. Finally, clinical signs of vascular disorders present no evolution with age. Conclusion: Clinical signs of aging are essentially influenced by extrinsic factors, especially sun exposure. Indeed UV exposure seems to be responsible for 80% of visible facial aging signs. Keywords: photoaging, clinical evaluation, wrinkles, ptosis, pigmentation, UV

Huixia Qiu,1 Frederic Flament,2 Xiaohui Long,1 Jun Wu,1 Mengzhi Xu,1 Didier Saint Leger,2 Helene Meaudre,2 Jerome Senee,1 Bertrand Piot,2 Roland Bazin2 1L’Oréal Research and Innovation, Shanghai, People’s Republic of China; 2L’Oréal Research and Innovation, Chevilly, France Abstract: The facial skin tone of two groups of Chinese women from Shanghai was compared using standard colorimetric space techniques during a 6-month interval between January and July 2011. During the study period, one group of women (n = 40) applied a potent sun-protective cosmetic product daily, while the other group (n = 40) did not use any sun protection. The results, based on images taken using a standardized digital camera coupled to a spectroradiometer, showed that sun protection largely mitigated changes in the components of skin tone, ie, lightness, melanization, and individual typology angle parameters. The skin darkening process appeared to be reduced or prevented in the sun-protected group when compared with the control group. The sun-protected women had participated in an earlier study in 2008, which confirmed that seasonal skin darkening occurs from winter through summer in Shanghaiese women. Comparing the data obtained in the winters of 2008 and 2011, we were able to identify better the impact of 3 years of aging on the components of skin tone. Comparing data between seasons on the same women with (2011 study) and without (2008 study) sun protection highlights the role of the test product in preventing skin darkening. Keywords: skin tone, skin seasonal darkening, sun protection, aging

Research was conducted to examine the effect of triiodothyronine (T3) administration to euthyroid rats on Beta3-adrenoceptor (Beta3-AR) expression and on the different components of the adenylyl cyclase system in brown adipose tissue. In rats treated with T3, the Beta3-AR density (assessed by the binding of [3H]CGP-12177) showed a decrease of 50%, as did their mRNA, as analyzed by reverse transcriptase-polymerase chain reaction. Results indicate that downregulation of the Beta3-AR by T3 was counterbalanced by changes in other components of the AC cascade.

The various metabolic abnormalities developed in brown adipose tissues of Zucker fa/fa rats are recovered by the application of chronic beta-agonist drug BRL-35135, before the appearance of obesity. The genetic obesity is acquired by the impaired sympathetic activity. The introduction of BRL in fa/fa rats decreases the lipid content of white and brown adipose tissues.

Abstract: Background: To study capacity of skin to being imprinted by a marking head rapidly applied (10 seconds) onto the skin under a standardized pressure (15 kPa). Material and Methods: Referential photographs of skin markings, resulting from different times of application serve at grading the extent of skin imprints. The imprinting tool, equipped with 5 linear bulbs of different sizes but same thickness (1 mm), was applied onto the cheeks of 641 women of different ages (18‐80 years) of 3 different ethnic groups. In the cohort of 198 Caucasian women, the marking head was pressed onto 3 different sites (outer arm, cheek, and dorsal forearm) and the kinetics of skin recovery from cheek marking was recorded on a smaller and younger part of this Caucasian cohort, ie, 141 Caucasian women, aged 18‐59 years. Results: The recorded intensities of skin markings were found highly correlated with age in all 3 studied ethnic groups (Chinese, African‐American, and Caucasian). Caucasian women seem more sensitive to the marking and the kinetics of recovery from such imprint was found highly dependent from its intensity, ie, the higher the grades, the slower the recovery. In Caucasian women, intensities were different between skin sites, where arm showed higher resistance to marking. Possible impact of photo‐aging on the decreased skin resistance to such provoked deformation is likely of minor amplitude, as compared to the one induced by chronological aging. Conclusion: This method offers a new vision on skin aging, in its variable response to a standard deformation that appears mostly driven by chronological aging. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background Facial skin pores ( FSP) are common and benign signs that generate frequent esthetic concerns or complaints. Despite their worldwide prevalence, related literature remains scarce. Hence, a new device has been developed and applied to validating studies, aiming at best describing FSP as they are self-perceived, i.e. their anatomic features, their possible alterations with age and their appearance after application of a make-up product. Methods Dermascore+® is an imaging device dedicated to a direct observation and acquisition of various characteristics of the skin surface. Images are captured under a high magnification and under different lighting configurations, to highlight the skin relief, based upon parallel polarized images. Dedicated software allows FSP to being detected and their morphological parameters to being extracted and computed. By measuring each detected FSP in a given region of interest, a statistically significant impact of both age and an applied cosmetic product upon their morphological features can be observed and quantified. Results Although the size and density of FSP are not affected by aging, their shape become s elongated. A few tested make up products show variable effects that closely correlate with visual assessments made by trained estheticians. Conclusion The shape of FSP present on cheeks shows age-related changes, toward a more elongated aspect, likely linked to a progressively altered (more isotropic) skin surface micro-relief. The new tool Dermascore+® allows foundations to being rapidly differentiated and screened according to their variable effects upon the visual appearance through instrumental, objective depiction of FSP. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]