Search

The oil obtained from the seeds of Citrullus lanatus (Thunb.) Matsum. & Nakai (Kalahari melon) is highly sought after in the cosmetic industry as a prized ingredient to maintain healthy skin. Seed oils contain a range of fatty acids that may be beneficial upon topical application to the skin. The quantification of the fatty acids was done using two dimensional gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (GC × GC–MS). The safety (irritancy potential test) and efficacy (transepidermal water loss (TEWL), hydration and occlusivity tests) of topically applied Kalahari melon seed oil on healthy Caucasian adult female volunteers (n = 20) was determined. Skin irritation and dryness were determined by visual scoring using a 2 × magnifying lamp while Chromameter®, Aquaflux® and Corneometer® instruments were used to quantify the irritancy level, TEWL and hydrating properties of Kalahari melon oil, respectively. The occlusive effect of the oil was assessed using Aquaflux® and Corneometer® instruments. Four major fatty acids, linoleic acid (51.4%), oleic acid (36.7%), stearic acid (6.3%) and palmitic acid (5.6%), were quantified using comprehensive GC × GC–MS analysis. Kalahari melon seed oil was non-irritant to the skin when topically applied (observed at 24, 48, 72 and 96 h). Aquaflux® and Corneometer® results showed that the application of Kalahari melon seed oil resulted in reduced TEWL and increased moisture retention. The non-irritant, hydrating and moisturising effects of Kalahari melon seed oil observed in this study justifies its incorporation into cosmetic products.

Tyrosinase is the key enzyme in the production of melanin. Tyrosinase inhibitors have gained interest in the cosmetics industry to prevent hyperpigmentation and skin-related disorders by inhibiting melanin production. It has been reported that several Aloe species exhibit anti-tyrosinase efficacy in vitro. In this study, the exudates of thirty-nine South African Aloe species were screened to identify species and compounds with anti-tyrosinase activity. Qualitative screening revealed that twenty-nine Aloe species exhibited tyrosinase inhibition activity with one to three active bands. Quantitative screening was performed for 29 species and expressed as IC50 values. Three species were further analysed and subsequently, aloesin and aloeresin A was isolated from A. ferox and plicataloside from A. plicatilis and A. chabaudii. Aloeresin A was determined to be a substrate of mushroom tyrosinase. Dose-response assays showed that aloesin (IC50 = 31.5 μM) and plicataloside (IC50 = 84.1 μM) exhibited moderate to weak activity. Molecular docking scores for plicataloside were considerably lower than for aloesin (P

Recently there has been a renewed impetus in the search for novel ingredients to be used in the cosmetic industry and Baobab (Adansonia digitata L., Malvaceae) seed oil has received high interest. In this study, a commercial Baobab seed oil sample was characterised (fatty acid content) using GCxGC-ToF-MS and a pilot study on the safety and efficacy of the seed oil was performed. The safety and efficacy of Baobab seed oil after topical application was determined using healthy adult female caucasian participants (n = 20). A 2× magnifying lamp was used for visual analysis, while for monitoring and evaluation of the irritancy level, transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and hydration level of the skin, Chromameter®, Aquaflux® and Corneometer® instruments, respectively, were used. In addition, Aquaflux® and Corneometer® instruments were used to assess occlusive effects. Thirteen methyl esters were identified using GCxGC-ToF-MS. The major fatty acids included 36.0% linoleic acid, 25.1% oleic acid and 28.8% palmitic acid with 10.1% constituting trace fatty acids. The irritancy of sodium lauryl sulphate (SLS) in the patch test differed significantly compared to both de-ionised water (p

Sclerocarya birrea (A.Rich.) Hochst (Marula) nut oil is a popular ingredient in cosmetics such as skin lotions, lipsticks and foundations. The demand for this African oil increased tremendously such that in 2008 almost US$ 20 million was spent on Marula oil for cosmetic product manufacturing. The ethnobotanical literature states that the Zulu people in South Africa amongst others applied the oil to maintain a healthy skin. Scientific studies to support the traditional use as well as the inclusion of Marula oil in cosmetic products is lacking. This study evaluated the irritancy potential (safety), the moisturising and hydrating effects as well occlusivity properties (efficacy) of Marula oil after topical application. In addition, the Marula oil used in this study was comprehensively characterised using two-dimensional gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry.Quantification of the fatty acid methyl esters (FAMEs) was done using a LECO Pegasus 4D GC × GC-MS. To determine the safety and efficacy of Marula oil healthy caucasian adult female volunteers (n = 20) who complied with the inclusion and exclusion criteria for the irritancy patch, moisture efficacy, hydrating and occlusivity tests were recruited for each study. A 2 × magnifying lamp (visual observation), Chromameter®, Aquaflux® and Corneometer® instruments were used to evaluate and monitor the irritancy level, skin barrier function, transepidermal water loss, hydrating and occlusive effects of topically applied Marula oil.The GC × GC-MS analysis identified several saturated as well as unsaturated fatty acids. Oleic acid was the major fatty acid constituting 69.0% of the oil followed by palmitic acid (15.3%), linoleic acid (9.2%), palmitoleic acid (4.1%) and stearic acid (1.5%). The clinical study revealed that Marula oil is non-irritant (p0.001), with moisturising and hydrating properties (p0.001) when applied to a lipid-dry (xerosis) skin. Additionally the oil exhibited occlusive effects (p0.001) when applied to normal skin. These findings may be linked to the absorption of the oil into the skin due to the high percentage of oleic acid and the presence of palmitic acid which are known to disturb the stratum corneum intercellular lipids. These fatty acids present in Marula oil are very similar to those present in the epidermis, and can be considered biomimetic.Marula oil rich in fatty acids exhibits moisturising, hydrating and occlusive properties. As the oil is non-irritating and provides a moisturising effect with moderate prevention of transepidermal water loss, average moisture retention properties and noteworthy occlusive effects, its inclusion in cosmetic products based on its traditional use may be justified depending on the application.

Trichilia emetica, a plant native to Africa, is used in traditional medicine to treat various ailments such as abdominal pains, dermatitis, haemorrhoids, jaundice and chest pain. This species also known as Natal Mahogany is used for its emetic, diuretic and purgative properties and for induction of labour. The extensive traditional use of this species has encouraged scientists to explore several biological activities including anti-infective, anti-inflammatory, antischistosomal, antiplasmodial, anticonvulsant, antitrypanosomal, anti-oxidant, antitussive, antimutagenic and hepatoprotective properties. Several limonoids have been isolated from the stem bark. Trichilia substance Tr-B and nymania 1 exhibited selective inhibitory activity towards DNA repair-deficient yeast mutants and exerted antifungal, bactericidal, antiviral, antifeedant and growth regulating properties. Polysaccharides have been isolated and the pectin rhamnogalacturonan type I with side chains of arabinogalactan type II exhibited fixation ability suggesting the possible mode of action as a wound healing remedy. This review aims to coherently unite results obtained from various studies on this ethnomedicinally important species.

Seed oils have been used for centuries by rural communities as food, medicine, for cosmetic applications and as fuel. Recently there has been a renewed interest in these non-timber forest products (NTFPs) specifically for use in cosmetic formulations. The cosmetic industry remains under immense consumer pressure to produce innovative products for this lucrative industry. Like the pharmaceutical industry, the wellness industry turns to nature for guidance, inspiration and as a source of novel compounds to produce new consumer products. Furthermore, discerning consumers of cosmetic products are nowadays informing themselves of the validity of scientific claims made on various products. The seed oils extracted from several plant species are popularly included as ingredients in cosmetic products due to their high fatty acid composition. The information on African seed oils is scattered in literature and often published in obscure and dated manuscripts. With an emphasis on (but not restricted to) cosmetic applications the botanical aspects, uses, physico-chemical properties and oil composition as well as biological activity of six commercially important species are coherently united and reviewed in this paper and include; Adansonia digitata (baobab), Citrullus lanatus (Kalahari melon), Schinziophyton rautanenii (manketti/mungongo), Sclerocarya birrea (marula), Trichilia emetica (mafura butter) and Ximenia americana (sour plum). © 2011 SAAB. Published by Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.