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The 3D warp interlock carbon fabrics, which have different structural properties, were produced and their tensile, bending, shear and formability properties were tested in our previous study. However, further analyses and modelling studies are needed to have an overall understanding of the specific and complex behaviours of the 3D warp interlock carbon fabrics. The 3D warp interlock fabrics contain more number of product properties, which are number of layers, two or more number of yarns groups, the parameters of binding warp yarns and so on, in comparison with the traditional woven fabrics. This phenomenon makes difficulties for designers to choose optimal structure to obtain last product properties. The mechanical and formability behaviours of 3D warp interlock carbon fabrics were analysed in terms of the structural design parameters in the study. Thanks to the carried out analyses, the new relationships could be revealed as well as the currently known connections were proven among the fabric parameters. The formability behaviour of 3DWIF has never been statistically modelled in the previous studies. Therefore, the models were developed to predict the mechanical and formability behaviours of the 3D warp interlock carbon fabrics to bring new perspective for literature. Revealed relationships and developed models help designers to determine the best structural solution for purposed properties as well as clarify the complex behaviours of 3D warp interlock fabrics.

Composite materials which are reinforced with 3D warp interlock fabrics have outstanding mechanical properties such as higher delamination resistance, ballistic damage resistance and impact damage tolerance by means of their improved structural properties. Textile reinforcements are exposed to large deformations in the production stage of composite materials which have complex shape. Although good formability properties of 3D warp interlock fabrics in forming process were already proven by recent studies, further information is needed to elucidate forming behaviours of multi-layer fabrics which is produced with high stiffness yarns like carbon. In this study, 3D warp interlock carbon fabrics were produced on a prototype weaving loom and the same carbon yarn was used in two fabric directions with equal number of yarn densities. Fabrics were differentiated with regard to the presence of stuffer warp yarn, weave pattern and parameters of binding warp yarn which are angle and depth. Therefore, the effect of fabric architecture on the mechanical and formability properties of 3D warp interlock carbon fabrics could be clarified. Three different breaking behaviours of fabrics were detected and they were correlated with crimp percentages of yarn groups. In addition, the bending and shear deformations were analysed in view of parameters of fabric architectures. Two distinct forming behaviours of fabrics were determined according to the distribution of deformation areas on fabrics. Moreover, the optimal structure was identified for forming process considering the fabric architecture.

The 3D woven fabrics have superior mechanical behaviours thanks to their extraordinary structural design and properties. By this means, they and their reinforced composites have been increasingly demanded from various application areas such as aviation, defence, automotive and so on. The physical properties of 3D woven fabrics have been endeavoured to determine thanks to the numerical methods by the number of research studies. The prediction of complex mechanical behaviour of 3D woven fabrics gives lots of advantages the designers to get desired last product properties. The studies, which were carried out on the modelling and analysis of mechanical properties of 3D woven fabrics owing to computer aided numerical methods, were reviewed and summarized in the present study. The reviewed studies were examined according to the computer aided modelling parameters which are the size and type of element, the material model, modelling scale approaches and the border conditions. In addition, the modelling problems that caused discrepancies with the experimental results were comprehensively mentioned.

The static electricity properties of textile products are very important, especially when clothing comfort is the main subject. In this study, four sets of clothing fabrics containing 33 systematic and 18 non-systematic woven fabrics in total were used in order to examine the electrostatic charging properties. A testing mechanism which provides static electricity by the triboelectrification method was manufactured, and electrostatic voltage values occurring on the fabric samples were measured by an electrostatic voltmeter simultaneously with the testing mechanism. The repeatability of the results was checked by using polyester and cotton systematic woven fabrics. After this stage, the effects of fabric structural parameters and the rubbing period on electrostatic charging properties were evaluated. Moreover, non-systematic commercial woven fabrics were also tested in the study. In the last section of the experimental part, the best clothing and lining fabric combinations were revealed according to the lowest static electricity results.

The aim of this research is to measure theeffectiveness of the education package prepared for the students who are 11-15years old and who are living in archaeological sites. The research was carriedout in the excavation area of Aizanoi Ancient City in the Çavdarhisar Districtof Kütahya. Quantitative data collection method was used in the research andpre-test and post-test control group designs were used. The students in thecontrol group received a field trip and a theoretical lecture accompanied by anarchaeologist. Experimental training package was applied to experimental group. Thedifference between this training and the education applied to the control groupis that there are practical trainings in the fields of archeology and visualarts. According to the findings obtained in the research; the visual arts andarcheology cooperative experimental training package applied gave results in favor of the experimental group withregards to increasing their capability of the students aged 11-15 living inarchaeological sites to recognize the cultural heritage and protect it., Bu araştırmanın amacı, arkeolojik sit alanlarındayaşamına devam eden 11-15 yaş grubu öğrencilerin, kültürel mirası tanıma vesahip çıkma kazanımlarının gerçekleşmesine yönelik hazırlanan eğitim paketininetkinliğinin ölçülmesidir. Araştırma Kütahya ili, Çavdarhisar ilçesinde bulunanAizanoi Antik Kenti kazı alanında gerçekleştirilmiştir. Nicel araştırmadesenine göre hazırlanan bu araştırmada ön test-son test kontrol gruplu desenkullanılmıştır. Kontrol grubunda yer alan öğrencilere bir arkeolog eşliğindealan gezisi ve teorik anlatımdan oluşan eğitim uygulanmıştır. Deney grubuna isehazırlanan deneysel eğitim paketi uygulanmıştır. Bu eğitimin kontrol grubunauygulanan eğitimden farkı, içinde arkeoloji ve görsel sanatlar alanlarındanuygulamalı eğitimlerin olmasıdır. Çalışmada örgün eğitim dışında, görselsanatlar ve arkeoloji işbirliği ile farklı ortamlarda verilen, kültürel miraseğitiminin, öğrencilerin başarı ve tutumlarına etkisi tespit edilmiştir. Yapılanaraştırmada elde edilen bulgulara göre, görsel sanatlar ve arkeoloji işbirliğiile uygulanan eğitim paketinin, öğrencilerin kültürel mirası tanıma ve sahipçıkmaya yönelik kazanımlar elde etmesinde deney grubu lehine anlamlıfarklılığın oluştuğu sonuçlara ulaşılmıştır.

This study aims to reveal the general situation of metaphor analysis articles published inscientific journals in the field of educational administration in Turkeybetween 2007-2016 years. The study was designed through qualitative surveymethod. The sample of the research consists of 38 articles. Document analysiswas used as the data collection tool. It was found that most of the articleswere written in 2014 and by two authors, the most common method was qualitativeresearch, the pre-service teachers were frequently chosen as participants andthe most frequently used analysis technique was content analysis. It is amongthe study findings that the concepts expressed through metaphors werepopulously themed for their function andcharacteristics in the articles., Buçalışma , 2007-2016 yılları arasında Türkiye’de bilimsel dergilerdeeğitim yönetimi alanında yayımlanmış olan metafor analizi makalelerinin geneldurumunu ortaya koymayı amaçlanmaktadır . Bu çalışma nitel tarama yöntemi iletasarlanmıştır. Araştırmanın örnek-lemini 38 makale oluşturmaktadır. Veritoplama tekniği olarak doküman incelemesinden yararlanılmıştır. En fazla sayıdamakalenin 2014 yılında ve iki yazar tarafından yayımlandığı, en sık tercihedilen yönteminin nitel araştırma yöntemi olduğu, öğretmen adaylarının sıklıklaörneklem seçiminde tercih edildiği ve en çok kullanılan analiz yöntemininiçerik analizi olduğu tespit edilmiştir. Metafor aracılığı ile ifade edilenkavramların yoğunlukla işlev ve özelliğine göre temalara ayrıldığı araştırmasonuçları arasındadır.

Despite the fact that the tactile comfort of a garment is an important criterion that determines consumers' preferences and has been investigated for almost a century by many researchers, the number of studies regarding tactile comfort of denim fabrics is limited. The aim of this study is to propose suggestions to enhance the tactile comfort of denim fabrics and investigate their efficiency in terms of low-stress mechanical properties and sensory evaluation results. For this purpose, the compressibility, extension ability, bending rigidity and shear rigidity of 51 denim fabrics were experimentally determined. Meanwhile, stiffness–softness, roughness–smoothness and tactile comfort scores were evaluated by consumers and specialists via sensory tests. The effects of the raw material, blend ratio, weaving parameters and washing processes were statistically investigated. Low-stress mechanical properties, particularly biaxial and multiaxial ones, were found to be highly related to the perceived tactile comfort. Statistical investigations highlighted that stone washing is the most effective method to improve the tactile comfort. Nonetheless, the effect of enzyme washing was relatively small. It was observed that the suggested weaving parameters provide a significant improvement in fabric properties. Increasing the ratio of viscose content in polyester/viscose blend weft yarns was quite effective as well.

Clothing and the enclosed air layers highly affect heat dissipation from the body and thus, are crucial factors when it comes to thermal comfort. The heat and moisture transfer is affected by the variation of the size and the shape of air gaps between the garment and the human body. In addition, the fabric and garment design properties can affect the amount of heat loss from different body parts. In this study, we investigated the effect of fabric properties (different raw materials and weave types) and the garment fit on the heat loss through the garment combinations (undershirt and shirt) for the different parts of the upper body (trunk, chest, and back) using a sweating thermal manikin. The undershirt fit and the raw material of the shirts showed strong effects on the dry thermal resistance of the garment combinations. Moreover, the undershirt properties affected the evaporative heat loss from garment combinations, and the magnitude of these effects varied over different body regions. Whilst the undershirt fit had a significant impact on the evaporative heat loss of the back region, the influence of the undershirt raw material was more important in the chest region. The findings of this study provide fundamental knowledge to improve the thermal comfort of garment combinations for office wear.

© 2019 by DEStech Publications, Inc. and American Society for Composites. All rights reserved.There is a challenge on the use of stiffer carbon yarns into fabric structures to be used as fibrous reinforcement of composite material and their capacity to be draped inside the mold. Thus, one of the solution to cope with this issue lies in the use of 3D warp interlock fabrics. However, it is a challenge to choose the right 3D warp interlock architecture that has optimal performance for the requested application. The aim of this research is filling this gap and explores the potential properties of the 3D warp interlock fabric as a function of its architecture and geometrical properties. The 3D warp interlock carbon fabrics were produced and their tensile properties were investigated in the research. All the fabrics were produced on the same dobby loom with same carbon yarn (6K - 400 Tex) and with similar warp and weft densities. They were differentiated by binding warp yarn parameters, weave diagram pattern and including or not stuffer warp yarns in the woven structure. The carbon yarn strength was controlled at the different fabrication scales from bobbin to fabric in order to track the effect of the weaving process on the yarn strength. No significant loss in the carbon strength is observed. 3D warp interlock fabrics are manufactured with different weave pattern and other weaving parameters. The tensile behavior of these fabrics are evaluated and analyzed in light of the measured shrinkage of the constituting yarns. High impact for the yarn shrinkage value is revealed resulting in a higher breaking strain for the fabric comparing to the breaking strain of the carbon yarn (less than 1 %).

Fabric surface properties are significant in terms of fabric handle, sensorial comfort, aesthetic and performance properties. Yarn properties are among the most important parameters that affect fabric surface properties. Besides, fiber type, fiber properties and spinning technology etc. directly affect the physical, mechanical and performance properties of yarns as well as fabric surface properties. In the scope of this study, effects of fiber type (raw material), fiber fineness and fiber length on the surface properties of fabrics were investigated. Also, properties of yarns were measured and their effects on fabric surface properties were analyzed. For this purpose, unevenness, optical unevenness, imperfections, structural properties (diameter, density, roughness and shape), hairiness and frictional properties of yarns were measured, and relationships between abrasion resistance, pilling and frictional properties of knitted fabrics were examined. Regression models were developed in order to predict fabric surface properties from yarn characteristics. Based on comprehensive data analysis, it was concluded that variation in yarn friction and yarn hairiness explains approximately 80–85% of fabric-to-fabric and fabric-to-skin (gazelle skin) friction coefficients. Furthermore, positive correlations between yarn hairiness and weight loss, and yarn hairiness and thickness change after abrasion test, were observed. Additionally, a new parameter, the optical contact index (OCI), based on an image analysis method, was suggested to determine the surface properties and roughness of fabrics. Relationships between the OCI and other tested fabric surface properties were statistically analyzed. Statistical analyses showed that high correlations exist between the new parameter and fabric friction and abrasion resistance at the 0.05 significance level.

The ability of a textile product to change shape under motion-based diagonal forces defines the shear behavior of a fabric and its suitability for a wearable garment design. The principal aim of this study is to introduce a new shear frame and investigate the effects of raw material and setting on in-plane shear behavior of woven fabrics. For this purpose, the mechanical properties of systematic and commercially available non-systematic fabrics were measured. A novel approach to determine the in-plane shear behavior of woven fabrics via two complementary shear frame measurements was presented. The results were also compared with a conventional method known as the bias extension method. It was established that the proposed method provides more accurate and precise results. In order to investigate the correlation between in-plane shear behavior and other mechanical properties, bending rigidity and extension ability of fabrics were measured as well. The analyses regarding the relations between selected fabric parameters showed that there are considerably high correlation coefficients. The effect of raw material and setting was likewise found out to be statistically significant. © 2016, © The Author(s) 2016.

It was aimed to determine the mediating effect of workaholism in the relationship between teacher and principalbehaviours related to school climate and organizational commitment in this study. The study was designed throughcorrelational survey method. Organizational Climate Scale, DUWAS (Dutch Work Addiction Scale), Meyer andAllen Organizational Commitment Scale were used as data collection tools. 266 teachers working at primary andsecondary schools in Kutahya Province created the sample of the study. In accordance with the aim of the study,different measurement models were set and tested by structural equation modelling. In terms of the findings, thetests of only two models are successful. It is statistically proved that workaholism has a mediating effect only in therelationships between supportive principal behaviour and normative and continuance commitment dimensions oforganizational commitment. The positive relationship between supportive principal behaviour and organizationalclimate strengthens with the workaholic behaviours the teachers experience. In other words, workaholic teachersare more committed to their organizations in which the supportive principal behaviours are observed in comparisonwith their colleagues. However, any mediating effect of workaholism cannot be found in the relationships betweendirective principal behaviour, restrictive principal behaviour, collegial teacher behaviour, intimate teacher behaviour,disengaged teacher behaviour and organizational commitment.

In this study, the heat transfer and moisture management properties of fabric combinations for office wear consisting of underwear and shirt fabrics, including three different fiber types and three kinds of weave types, were investigated. A sweating torso methodology was applied in order to characterize fabric combinations in terms of thermophysiological comfort for office occupants. This study showed that the cooling effect due to perspiration, accumulated moisture, and drying time of the combinations with cotton underwear were unaffected by both weave type and fiber type of shirt layer. However, initial cooling and drying time values of the combinations with underwear consisting of hydrophobic fibers were affected statistically significant by the fiber of the shirt layer. The percentage of moisture accumulation in the fabric layers was directly related to the fiber type of the underwear fabrics. Based on an extended data analysis, it was concluded that the combination of polyester underwear and cotton polyester twill shirt fabrics was the most recommendable of all the combinations used in this study with regard to the thermophysiological comfort of office occupants.

A test apparatus based on electrical conduction principle was designed and manufactured to overcome some difficulties and deficiencies in vertical wicking measurements of fabrics, which is one of the test methods used to determine liquid moisture transmission performance of fabrics. In order to test effectiveness of the apparatus, capillary time with regard to height was measured for woven shirting fabrics, which have different raw material, weave type and weft density. It was found that twill weave type and fabric looseness improved the wickability of fabrics. It was also revealed that raw material was an important factor for vertical wicking. The wicking rate of fabrics obtained from the new test apparatus correlated well with DIN 53924. Consequently, the test apparatus clearly demonstrated differences between the fabrics used in the study, and can be used to determine vertical wicking behaviour of fabrics.

Fabric having elastane fiber is accepted as fashionable and functional for a long time, especially for the fabrics fit the body in a comfortable way. This study examines the deformation properties of knitted sportswear fabric. Three different test methods were used to compare the stretching abilities of the test fabrics. 12 knitted fabrics were produced according to the customer demands by using two different base yarn linear density (Ne28 viscose, Ne36 viscose), two different settings (normal, tight) and three different poliamid/elastane gimped yarn denier (70/20, 70/40, 70/70)". As a result, comparative analysis has been carried out between these three methods and the effect of structural parameters such as linear density of gimped elastane yarn and fabric setting was analyzed. It was observed that fabrics having Ne28 viscose yarn have generally less deformation values in comparison to the fabrics having Ne36 viscose yarn for the results of different test methods. The effects of structural parameters such as linear density of gimped yarn and setting were found statistically significant at 95%confidence level for many of the test fabrics. Besides, it was found out that there is no systematic tendency observed among the fabric types for the different test methods.

Thermal comfort is one of the most important components of comfort which shows physiological, psychological, and physical harmony between human body and environment. The heat and moisture transfer capacity of fabric from skin to environment affects the thermal comfort of garments. The transfer capacity depends on the characteristic features of raw materials and fabric structural properties. In this study, it is aimed to determine the advantages of knitted fabric types, taking into account the environmental condition and activity level by measuring the thermal comfort properties such as air permeability, wicking, moisture management, thermal and water vapor resistances. Two knitted structures composed of tuck and float combinations and six raw materials were chosen for the fabrics produced. According to the measurement results, the polyester and cotton/Coolmax fabrics with float stitches have had good liquid moisture transport properties. Besides, high air permeability and low water vapor resistance have been obtained in viscose and Tencel LF fabrics with tuck stitches. On the basis of the results obtained in this investigation, and taking into consideration thermal behavior of human body, four women's and five men's T-shirts are designed. These T-shirt designs may be helpful for further approaches on the optimization of thermal comfort for sports activities in hot environment.

© 2014, © 2014 The Textile Institute.Viloft fiber is used frequently in sportswear and underwear in recent years. The purpose of this study is to determine the advantages of Viloft blends used for sportswear, taking into account objective measurements and subjective wear trials. In the study, 1 × 1 rib-knitted fabrics were produced from 20 tex yarn made by blending Viloft fiber and natural, synthetic, or functional fibers. 100% cotton, 100% viscose, and 100% Coolmax, the most preferred fabrics for sportswear were produced as well. Tight-fitting T-shirts with short sleeves and round neck were produced from these fabrics. Physical, mechanical, and transfer properties of the fabrics were measured. Besides, wear trials were conducted with five volunteers using the T-shirts, and mean skin temperature, microclimate relative humidity, and pulse rates were measured. According to the results, the mechanical properties of Viloft-blended fabrics have not been superior than commercial fabrics. Viloft/wool fabrics showing high thermal resistance and water vapor resistance have had poor transfer properties. Viloft/Coolmax fabrics with low water vapor resistance and high moisture management properties have come to the forefront in terms of liquid moisture comfort among Viloft-blended fabrics. It has been observed that knitted fabrics produced by blending Viloft/wool are not preferable options for sportswear. Viloft/Coolmax, Viloft/Thermolite, and Viloft/polyester fabrics have been advantageous for all activity levels.

In this study, fabrics with different plain, tuck and float stitch combinations in three different tightness levels as tight, medium and loose are produced from combed ring spun cotton yarn. It is aimed at determining the effect of fabric structure on liquid absorption, transport and permeability properties, which are important factors in the people’s perception of wear comfort. The air permeability, wicking ability and moisture management measurements of the produced fabrics are made. It is determined that the increase in the fabric tightness decreases the air permeability and increases the wicking ability especially in 60 min measurements. The fabric tightness has also different effects on different knitting types in terms of moisture management properties. It is observed that structures with float stitches show high wicking ability and moisture management properties in terms of plain, tuck and float stitches combinations.

The flow mechanism that is realized in 3-D depending on the fabric’s porosity structure determines the fabric’s permeability performance. During the flow movement that happens both in the in-plane and through-plane directions, not only the inter-yarn pore properties but inter-fiber pore properties play a significant role as well. The aim of this study is to offer a new method to identify intra-yarn porosity, which has mostly been neglected during the theoretical studies. In this method, initially the cross-sectional images of the cotton yarn in the fabric were achieved, and then the intra-yarn porosity was predicted via image processing and analysis steps. Besides, intra-yarn porosity was calculated theoretically depending on fiber and yarn parameters. The results that were obtained through the image analysis method and theoretical approaches were compared with the experimental data achieved by using Stereo Investigator. As a result, it was observed that the image analysis method was giving fast, objective, successful and expected results while predicting the intra-yarn porosity.

Kayma davranışı, tekstil ürünlerini plastik ve kâğıt gibi yüzeylerden ayıran en önemli özelliklerden biridir. Kayma deformasyonu, kumaşların dökümlülük, katlanabilirlik ve tutumunu etkileyen önemli bir para-metredir. Bunun yanı sıra kayma direnci, dokuma kumaşların eğilme ve mukavemet özelliklerini etkilemekte-dir. Bu çalışmada kayma deformasyonuna ilişkin kavramlar açıklanmış, kabuller ve modeller özetlenmiş, kay-ma deformasyonu ölçüm yöntemleri ve prensipleri kapsamlı bir şekilde incelenmiştir. Ölçüm yöntemlerinin avantajları ve dezavantajları ele alınarak yöntemler karşılaştırılmıştır., Shear behaviour is one of the most important properties that make fabrics unique among paper or plastic products. Shear deformation is an important parameter that defines the handle, pliability and drape of the fabrics. On the other hand, shear rigidity influences the strength and bending properties of woven fabrics. In this article the terms about shear deformation are explained, assumptions and models are summarised, shear deformation testing devices and their principles are examined. The advantages and disadvantages of the test methods are also considered and compared.

In order to determine the effect of raw material, weave type and tightness on liquid absorption and transmission which is an important factor in the perception of people's clothing comfort, knitted fabrics made of cotton, viscose and polyester yarns, which had single jersey, 1 × 1 rib and single pique weave type, had three different tightness as tight, medium and loose, were produced. Moisture management tester (MMT) was used for multi-dimensional liquid transport of the fabrics produced. As a result of the study, it is observed that polyester fabrics had higher OMMC values than those of cellulosic-based fabrics. Regarding the effect of tightness, liquid transport has decreased with increasing tightness in general. Weave types examined in this study, were not as strong as raw materials and tightness and did not have such a significant effect. © 2013 Copyright The Textile Institute.

The permeability property of fabric is a desired performance property of textile structure used in different areas. In this study, the relationship between in-plane and through-plane permeability behaviors and the structural properties of woven fabrics having numerous usage areas, such as clothing and technical textiles, were investigated with the help of data obtained from a group of test fabrics having different weave types and weft settings, which were produced by using the same warp and weft linear density. In the study, the pore properties were examined in two regions: inter-yarn and inter-fiber pore regions. After defining the pore properties, which were determined by the structural and geometrical properties of fabric according to different approaches, the permeability results of both in-plane and through-plane directions were predicted theoretically by using obtained pore properties in flow equations. Estimated permeability results were compared with experimental results and the suitability of methods were discussed.

The aim of this study is to investigate the cross-sectional shape and size variation of the yarn in fabric depending on the structural parameters of fabric. For this reason, the dimensions of the yarns that are in the different regions of the weave unit have been determined by achieving the cross-sectional images of the fabrics, which were woven with different weave types and at different weft settings. The variation in the cross-section of the yarn has been evaluated by using the flattening ratio. Consequently, it has been observed that the structural factors which determine the geometry of the fabric, such as weave type and setting, affect the cross-sectional properties of the yarn along the yarn path.

Fluid permeability property is an important performance feature of fabrics and must be considered during the designing processes of products. Since the rate of fluid flow through a textile is a function of viscosity, density, pressure gradient of fluid, and the pore properties of fabric, it is necessary to define pore properties by controlling the structural parameters of fabric for a certain area of use. Due to the complexity of fabric structure, modeling of pore structure and predicting the pore parameters are difficult. In this study, the interyarn porosity, pore size, and pore-size distribution of cotton woven fabrics were calculated by using two-dimensional (2D) and three-dimensional (3D) geometrical pore models and image analysis method. The effect of weave types and weft settings on the pore parameters and air permeability of fabrics were investigated, and the advantages of 2D, 3D geometrical pore models and image analysis method were compared.

In this study, structural, physical and mechanical properties of cotton-Tencel and cotton-Promodal blended ring, compact and vortex spun yarns were compared. Yarn properties such as hairiness, unevenness, imperfections, diameter, density, roughness, roundness, breaking force and elongation were evaluated. In general, hairiness values of ring yarns are the highest and vortex yarns are the lowest. In regard to unevenness, compact yarns have the best and vortex yarns have the worst values. When the effect of spinning systems is evaluated in terms of breaking force and elongation, results show that compact yarns have the highest values whereas vortex yarns have the lowest. In addition, effects of different blend ratios on a yarn’s structural, physical and mechanical properties were examined by using 100% cotton, 100% regenerated cellulosic fibre and 67%—33%, 50%—50%, 33%—67% cotton-regenerated cellulosic fibre blended yarns. In general, an increasing ratio of regenerated cellulosic fibre content in the blend decreases unevenness, imperfections, diameter and roughness values; on the other hand it increases breaking force, elongation, density and shape values. Effect of blend type is also statistically significant for many yarn properties. Mainly, it can be seen that while cotton-Promodal yarns have better physical properties, cotton-Tencel yarns have better mechanical properties.

Quality Function Deployment (QFD) is a systematic approach that considers customer needs through design, production, marketing, and support stages. Customer needs are the main input for QFD, so voice of customer must be understood well and changes, innovations, and treatments must be held in this view. In QFD applications, determining the priorities of customer needs is a fairly important stage. This is mostly held by Analytic Hierarchy Process (AHP) a multicriteria decision making technique. Nonetheless, Ordered Weighted Averaging (OWA) is an aggregation technique mostly used in decision making for multicriteria decision problems. So, combining these two techniques will give a different viewpoint for prioritizing the customer needs in QFD applications. The aim of this study is to show the use of Ordered Weighted Averaging (OWA) aggregation technique in QFD applications. For this purpose a case study in Dokuz Eylul University Textile Engineering Department was held. It was aimed to support the efforts on increasing the education quality by determining the students’ needs and opinions using QFD with OWA.

Objective measurement systems and subjective evaluation techniques are used to determine thermal comfort performances of garments which is a crucial property for daily life and performance-based activities of humanbeing. More reliable and realistic results can be obtained if the objective measurement results are combined with the physiological and psychological data obtained during subjective evaluations such as forearm test and wear trials. In this study, results were put forward about relationships between objectively measured comfort parameters and physiological-psychological data obtained during subjective evaluations. As a result of forearm test, sensations occur during skin-fabric contact such as coolness and dampness depend on the surface and permeability properties of the fabric to a great extent. Results obtained during subjective wear trials show that coolness and dampness sensations are Significantly correlated with the temperature of the air layer between skin and fabric (microclimate). Moreover, the temperature and relative humidity of the microclimate reflect the differences between thermal comfort performances of different garments more than the other physiological parameters measured (skin surface temperature, heart rate).

Clothing is continuously in an interaction with the body both thermally and mechanically. Different sensations constituting the comfort status of a person arise as a result of this interaction. Coolness sensation perceived during skin-fabric contact is one of these sensations arising from the transient heat flow from skin to the fabric as skin is usually warmer than clothing. In this study, coolness to touch and dampness sensations created by knitted fabrics having different compositions and physical surface characteristics were investigated by forearm test conducted on seven males. Besides physical properties (weight, yarn count, thickness, density), surface roughness and friction properties of the inner surfaces of the fabrics touching the skin were also determined. Microscopic photographs were taken to have an idea about hairiness properties of the inner surfaces and optical porosity values were calculated by analysis of the microscopic images by using MATLAB software. It was found out that coolness and dampness sensations arise during skin–fabric contact are mostly related to the permeability and surface roughness characteristics of fabrics, and the effect of fabric material is more on dampness sensation than coolness sensation. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS In the recent years, consumers pay attention more to the mechanical, thermal and visual sensations stimulated by the dynamic body–clothing interactions besides the aesthetic properties of their clothing. They take into consideration feelings they have during first touch with the clothing into their purchase decisions. Coolness to touch sensation perceived during first contact with the fabric and dampness sensation – which is very important during wear conditions including sweating – are two of them and they are related to the thermophysiological aspect of clothing comfort. For producing garments giving desirable feelings, it is very important to determine fabric properties influencing these sensations. A subjective evaluation method – the forearm test – was used to find out the relationships between coolness and dampness sensations and fabric properties. Results of this study are thought to be beneficial data for fabric manufacturers aiming to produce clothing for specific end users.

Consumers prefer garments that not only look good but also feel good especially during the last years because of their increased consciousness about a better life. Therefore, there have been many studies about subjective evaluation techniques such as subjective wear trials and consumer research techniques to understand how consumers perceive clothing and formulate their comfort perceptions at any specific moment. In this study, the meaning and importance of clothing comfort and main comfort problems according to a group of Turkish consumers having different properties were determined by a questionnaire survey study. Analysis of the results indicated that, garment fit and comfort were the most important criteria for the investigated group during purchase decisions and nearly all of the respondents considered clothing comfort as more important than before. The basic comfort problems of people were mostly related to ease of movement, sweating and garment fit. This study is a preparation stage for wear trials that will constitute the subjective part of a comfort evaluation method to be developed. PRACTICAL APPLICATIONS In the modern consumer market, meeting the consumer needs is the key factor for success and the only way to determine the needs is to measure them by subjective methods and find out the relationships between subjective results and physically measurable parameters. It is thought that, data obtained from this questionnaire survey would be helpful in creating a general overview about the meaning of comfort in a group of Turkish consumers' minds and their purchase behaviors. Sensory descriptors obtained from this study will be used for wear trials to get more reliable results, which will constitute the subjective part of a wider project. Conclusions put forward about objective and subjective measurements will guide fiber and textile producers about the needs and preferences of Turkish consumers. Consequently, they can determine their quality level suitable for specific consumer groups.

In this study, objective and subjective evaluations of fabrics were made to predict fabric handle in a simple way. The aim of this research was to select a suitable form of regression model and predict total handle value with a minimum number of parameters to make a practical approach by using simple laboratory measurements. For this purpose, a wide database of 71 worsted men's suitings was prepared by making subjective and objective evaluations. Subjective tests of primary handle attributes (softness-stiffness, thickness-thinness, and roughness-smoothness) and total handle were evaluated by an expert jury consisting of 18 members, and a subjective total handle value was also calculated using these data. Objective measurements consisted of fabric tensile, bending, shear, compression and surface properties, and pulling through a nozzle tests. A new surface roughness tester was used for measuring surface properties, and it was found that these roughness results might be useful for fabric handle prediction. Linear and log linear regression equations were tested by using 43 parameters. Consequently, some simple regression equations that were practical solutions were obtained to predict fabric handle. A very good result was obtained with a value of the adjusted R2 = 0.88 with eight parameters (LOGP1, LOGB, T42, RΔq1, Rp2, Rq1, Rpmean, P1) from four different property blocks (pulling through a nozzle, bending, tensile, and surface), and in particular, the regression equations reaching an adjusted R2 value over 0.80 are recommended.

Sensory evaluation of tactile properties of fabrics is a subject many researchers have studied for years and which still has importance and is also open to improvements. Particularly for suitings, the sensory evaluation of fabric handle or of other tactile properties has a greater importance. This article explains sensory evaluation techniques for stiffness, thickness and smoothness, which are the components of fabric handle of suitings. These sensory techniques are introduced by the authors and studied in 100% worsted wool suitings. The concordances of sensory test results are investigated by Kendall's concordance test, and correlation analyses are carried out to examine the relations between sensory results.

This paper discusses design details and measurement principles of a dynamic sweating hotplate system used for both steady-state thermal and water vapor resistance and dynamic water vapor transmission rate measurements. Dynamic and steady-state transfer measurements were carried out by separate systems in preceding studies. Water vapor resistance and dynamic water vapor transmission rate values were determined according to the new principles put forward in this study. Relationships between properties obtained by the new system and standard permeability (water vapor and air) parameters were determined for different types of fabrics used for sports clothing. The materials and physical/constructional properties of the investigated fabrics varied in a wide range as the aim was to determine if the developed system could differentiate their comfort performances. According to the results, water vapor resistance is significantly correlated with fabric weight and water vapor resistance is the best in differentiating the water vapor permeability characteristics of the fabrics among other transfer properties.