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This paper reviews the research activities that were carried out under the auspices of the National Ocean Partnership Program (NOPP) to advance research in wind wave modeling and transfer maturing technologies into operational community models. Primary focus of research activities that were funded under this program was to improve the source terms associated with deep water wind waves with a secondary focus on shallow water processes. While the focus has been on developing capabilities for stochastic phase averaged models, some of the research work reported here also touches on phase resolved models as well as updates that are needed to the classical stochastic equations to be applicable in shallow water conditions. The primary focus is on the development of new source terms to account for wave generation, dissipation and nonlinear wave-wave interactions. A direct result of this program has been the development of new physics packages in operational wave models that have improved forecast skill from 30 to 50 percent. Since this is an overview paper summarizing all the activities that were undertaken under this program, only the major results are presented here. The readers are directed to other publications for more details. The paper ends with a discussion of the remaining major challenges in wind wave modeling, from the larger open ocean scales to the smaller coastal domains.

The highly heterogeneous and biologically active continental shelf-seas are important components of the oceanic carbon sink. Carbon rich water from shelf-seas is exported at depth to the open ocean, a process known as the continental shelf pump, with open-ocean surface water moving (transported) onto the shelf driving the export at depth. Existing methods to study shelf-wide exchange focus on the wind or geostrophic currents, often ignoring their combined effect, spatial heterogeniety or any other ageostrophic components. Here we investigate the influence that wind, wave and current interactions can have on surface transport and carbon export across continental shelves. Using a 21 year global re-analysis dataset we confirm that geostrophic and wind driven Ekman processes are important for the transport of water onto shelf seas; but the dominance of each is location and season dependent. A global wave model re-analysis shows that one type of ageostrophic flow, Stokes drift due to waves, can also be significant. A regional case study using two submesocale model simulations identifies that up to 100% of the cross-shelf surface flow in European seas can be due to ageostrophic components. Using these results and grouping shelf-seas based on their observed carbon accumulation rates shows that differences in rates are consistent with imbalances between the processes driving atmosphere-ocean exchange at the surface and those driving carbon export at depth. Therefore expected future changes in wind and wave climate support the need to monitor cross-shelf transport and the size of the continental shelf-sea carbon pump. The results presented show that the Sea Surface Kinematics Multiscale monitoring satellite mission (SKIM), will be capable of providing measurements of the total cross-shelf current, which are now needed to enable routine monitoring of the global continental shelf-sea carbon pump., Comment: 22 pages, 3 tables, 5 figures

The Weak Turbulence Theory is a statistical framework to describe a large ensemble of nonlinearly interacting waves. The archetypal example of such system is the ocean surface that is made of interacting surface gravity waves. Here we describe a laboratory experiment dedicated to probe the statistical properties of turbulent gravity waves. We setup an isotropic state of interacting gravity waves in the Coriolis facility (13~m diameter circular wave tank) by exciting waves at 1~Hz by wedge wavemakers. We implement a stereoscopic technique to obtain a measurement of the surface elevation that is resolved both in space and time. Fourier analysis shows that the laboratory spectra are systematically steeper than the theoretical predictions and than the field observations in the Black Sea by Leckler {\it et al. JPO} 2015. We identify a strong impact of surface dissipation on the scaling of the Fourier spectrum at the scales that are accessible in the experiments. We use bicoherence and tricoherence statistical tools in frequency and/or wavevector space to identify the active nonlinear coupling. These analyses are also performed on the field data by Leckler {\it et al.} for comparison with the laboratory data. 3-wave coupling are characterized and shown to involve mostly quasi resonances of waves with second or higher order harmonics. 4-wave coupling are not observed in the laboratory but are evidenced in the field data. We finally discuss temporal scale separation to explain our observations., Comment: accepted for publication in Phys. Rev. Fluids

Oceanic pressure measurements, even in very deep water, and atmospheric pressure or seismic records, from anywhere on Earth, contain noise with dominant periods between 3 and 10 seconds, that is believed to be excited by ocean surface gravity waves. Most of this noise is explained by a nonlinear wave-wave interaction mechanism, and takes the form of surface gravity waves, acoustic or seismic waves. Previous theoretical works on seismic noise focused on surface (Rayleigh) waves, and did not consider finite depth effects on the generating wave kinematics. These finite depth effects are introduced here, which requires the consideration of the direct wave-induced pressure at the ocean bottom, a contribution previously overlooked in the context of seismic noise. That contribution can lead to a considerable reduction of the seismic noise source, which is particularly relevant for noise periods larger than 10 s. The theory is applied to acoustic waves in the atmosphere, extending previous theories that were limited to vertical propagation only. Finally, the noise generation theory is also extended beyond the domain of Rayleigh waves, giving the first quantitative expression for sources of seismic body waves. In the limit of slow phase speeds in the ocean wave forcing, the known and well-verified gravity wave result is obtained, which was previously derived for an incompressible ocean. The noise source of acoustic, acoustic-gravity and seismic modes are given by a mode-specific amplification of the same wave-induced pressure field near the zero wavenumber., Comment: Paper accepted for publication in the Journal of Fluid Mechanics

Equations for the wave-averaged three-dimensional momentum equations have been published in this journal. It appears that these equations are not consistent with the known depth-integrated momentum balance, especially over a sloping bottom. These equations should thus be considered with caution as they can produce erroneous flows, in particular outside of the surf zone. It is suggested that the inconsistency in the equations may arise from the different averaging operators applied to the different terms of the momentum equation. It is concluded that other forms of the momentum equations, expressed in terms of the quasi-Eulerian velocity, are better suited for three dimensional modelling of wave-current interactions., Comment: Paper submitted to J. Phys. Oceanogr

The authors have withdrawn this article [arXiv admin]., Comment: The authors have withdrawn this article [arXiv admin]

New parameterizations for the spectra dissipation of wind-generated waves are proposed. The rates of dissipation have no predetermined spectral shapes and are functions of the wave spectrum and wind speed and direction, in a way consistent with observation of wave breaking and swell dissipation properties. Namely, the swell dissipation is nonlinear and proportional to the swell steepness, and dissipation due to wave breaking is non-zero only when a non-dimensional spectrum exceeds the threshold at which waves are observed to start breaking. An additional source of short wave dissipation due to long wave breaking is introduced to represent the dissipation of short waves due to longer breaking waves. Several degrees of freedom are introduced in the wave breaking and the wind-wave generation term of Janssen (J. Phys. Oceanogr. 1991). These parameterizations are combined and calibrated with the Discrete Interaction Approximation of Hasselmann et al. (J. Phys. Oceangr. 1985) for the nonlinear interactions. Parameters are adjusted to reproduce observed shapes of directional wave spectra, and the variability of spectral moments with wind speed and wave height. The wave energy balance is verified in a wide range of conditions and scales, from gentle swells to major hurricanes, from the global ocean to coastal settings. Wave height, peak and mean periods, and spectral data are validated using in situ and remote sensing data. Some systematic defects are still present, but the parameterizations yield the best overall results to date. Perspectives for further improvement are also given., Comment: revised version for Journal of Physical Oceanography

Satellite Synthetic Aperture Radar (SAR) observations can provide a global view of ocean swell fields when using a specific "wave mode" sampling. A methodology is presented to routinely derive integral properties of the longer wavelength (swell) portion of the wave spectrum from SAR Level 2 products, and both monitor and predict their evolution across ocean basins. SAR-derived estimates of swell height, and energy-weighted peak period and direction, are validated against buoy observations, and the peak directions are used to project the peak periods in one dimension along the corresponding great circle route, both forward and back in time, using the peak period group velocity. The resulting real time dataset of great circle-projected peak periods produces two-dimensional maps that can be used to monitor and predict the spatial extent, and temporal evolution, of individual ocean swell fields as they propagate from their source region to distant coastlines. The methodology is found to be consistent with the dispersive arrival of peak swell periods at a mid-ocean buoy. The simple great circle propagation method cannot project the swell heights in space like the peak periods, because energy evolution along a great circle is a function of the source storm characteristics and the unknown swell dissipation rate. A more general geometric optics model is thus proposed for the far field of the storms. This model is applied here to determine the attenuation over long distances. For one of the largest recorded storms, observations of 15 s period swells are consistent with a constant dissipation rate that corresponds to a 3300 km e-folding scale for the energy. In this case, swell dissipation is a significant term in the wave energy balance at global scales., Comment: 14 pages. Submitted to Journal of Geophysical Research (revised)

The surface current response to winds is analyzed in a two-year time series of a 12 MHz (HF) Wellen Radar (WERA) off the West coast of France. The measured currents, with tides filtered out, are of the order of 1.0 to 1.8% of the wind speed, in a direction 10 to 40 degrees to the right of the wind. This Lagrangian current can be decomposed as the vector sum of a quasi-Eulerian current U_E, representative of the top 1 m of the water column, and a part of the wave-induced Stokes drift Uss at the sea surface. Here Uss is estimated with an accurate numerical wave model, thanks to a novel parameterization of wave dissipation processes. Using both observed and modelled wave spectra, Uss is found to be very well approximated by a simple function of the wind speed and significant wave height, generally increasing quadratically with the wind speed. Focusing on a site located 100 km from the mainland, the estimated contribution of Uss to the radar measurement has a magnitude of 0.6 to 1.3% of the wind speed, in the wind direction, a fraction that increases with wind speed. The difference U_E of Lagrangian and Stokes contributions is found to be of the order of 0.4 to 0.8% of the wind speed, and 45 to 70 degrees to the right of the wind. This elatively weak quasi-Eulerian current with a large deflection angle is interpreted as evidence of strong near-surface mixing, likely related to breaking waves., Comment: Submitted to J. Phys. Oceanogr. le 16/10/2008. Revised 18/02/2009, Accepted 03/04/2010

Global observations of ocean swell, from satellite Synthetic Aperture Radar data, are used to estimate the dissipation of swell energy for a number of storms. Swells can be very persistent with energy e-folding scales exceeding 20,000 km. For increasing swell steepness this scale shrinks systematically, down to 2800 km for the steepest observed swells, revealing a significant loss of swell energy. This value corresponds to a normalized energy decay in time {\ss} = 4.2 x 10-6 s -1 . Many processes may be responsible for this dissipation. Because no particular trend is found with wind magnitude and direction, the increase of dissipation rate in dissipation with swell steepness is interpreted as a laminar to turbulent transition of the boundary layer, with a threshold Reynolds number of the order of 100,000. These observations of swell evolution open the way for more accurate wave forecasting models, and provides a constraint on swell-induced air-sea fluxes of momentum and energy., Comment: Article soumis \`a GRL le 12/09/2008 apr\`es rejet par Nature Geoscience (soumis en avril 2008). Modifi\'e en Janvier 2009 et accept\'e en f\'evrier 2009

The generalized Langrangian mean theory provides exact equations for general wave-turbulence-mean flow interactions in three dimensions. For practical applications, these equations must be closed by specifying the wave forcing terms. Here an approximate closure is obtained under the hypotheses of small surface slope, weak horizontal gradients of the water depth and mean current, and weak curvature of the mean current profile. These assumptions yield analytical expressions for the mean momentum and pressure forcing terms that can be expressed in terms of the wave spectrum. A vertical change of coordinate is then applied to obtain glm2z-RANS equations (55) and (57) with non-divergent mass transport in cartesian coordinates. To lowest order, agreement is found with Eulerian-mean theories, and the present approximation provides an explicit extension of known wave-averaged equations to short-scale variations of the wave field, and vertically varying currents only limited to weak or localized profile curvatures. Further, the underlying exact equations provide a natural framework for extensions to finite wave amplitudes and any realistic situation. The accuracy of the approximations is discussed using comparisons with exact numerical solutions for linear waves over arbitrary bottom slopes, for which the equations are still exact when properly accounting for partial standing waves. For finite amplitude waves it is found that the approximate solutions are probably accurate for ocean mixed layer modelling and shoaling waves, provided that an adequate turbulent closure is designed. However, for surf zone applications the approximations are expected to give only qualitative results due to the large influence of wave nonlinearity on the vertical profiles of wave forcing terms., Comment: Paper submitted to Ocean Modelling (Feb. 8, 2007). This is a correction of an earlier paper submitted to JFM (Ardhuin & Jenkins 2004)

The effects of a submarine canyon on the propagation of ocean surface waves are examined with a three-dimensional coupled-mode model for wave propagation over steep topography. Whereas the classical geometrical optics approximation predicts an abrupt transition from complete transmission at small incidence angles to no transmission at large angles, the full model predicts a more gradual transition with partial reflection/transmission that is sensitive to the canyon geometry and controlled by evanescent modes for small incidence angles and relatively short waves. Model results for large incidence angles are compared with data from directional wave buoys deployed around the rim and over Scripps Canyon, near San Diego, California, during the Nearshore Canyon Experiment (NCEX). Wave heights are observed to decay across the canyon by about a factor 5 over a distance shorter than a wavelength. Yet, a spectral refraction model predicts an even larger reduction by about a factor 10, because low frequency components cannot cross the canyon in the geometrical optics approximation. The coupled-mode model yields accurate results over and behind the canyon. These results show that although most of the wave energy is refractively trapped on the offshore rim of the canyon, a small fraction of the wave energy 'tunnels' across the canyon. Simplifications of the model that reduce it to the standard and modified mild slope equations also yield good results, indicating that evanescent modes and high order bottom slope effects are of minor importance for the energy transformation of waves propagating across depth contours at large oblique angles.

Scattering of random surface gravity waves by small amplitude topography in the presence of a uniform current is investigated theoretically. This problem is relevant to ocean waves propagation on shallow continental shelves where tidal currents are often significant. A perturbation expansion of the wave action to second order in powers of the bottom amplitude yields an evolution equation for the wave action spectrum. A scattering source term gives the rate of exchange of the wave action spectrum between wave components, with conservation of the total action at each absolute frequency. With and without current, the scattering term yields reflection coefficients for the amplitudes of waves that converge, to the results of previous theories for monochromatic waves propagating in one dimension over sinusoidal bars. Over sandy continental shelves, tidal currents are known to generate sandwaves with scales comparable to those of surface waves. Application of the theory to such a real topography suggests that scattering mainly results in a broadening of the directional wave spectrum, due to forward scattering, while the back-scattering is generally weaker. The current may strongly influence surface gravity wave scattering by selecting different bottom scales with widely different spectral densities due the sharp bottom spectrum roll-off., Comment: submitted to Journal of Fluid Mechanics 7 Oct 2005

The topographical scattering of gravity waves is investigated using a spectral energy balance equation that accounts for first order wave-bottom Bragg scattering. This model represents the bottom topography and surface waves with spectra, and evaluates a Bragg scattering source term that is theoretically valid for small bottom and surface slopes and slowly varying spectral properties. The robustness of the model is tested for a variety of topographies uniform along one horizontal dimension including nearly sinusoidal, linear ramp and step profiles. Results are compared with reflections computed using an accurate method that applies integral matching along vertical boundaries of a series of steps. For small bottom amplitudes, the source term representation yields accurate reflection estimates even for a localized scatterer. This result is proved for small bottom amplitudes $h$ relative to the mean water depth $H$. Wave reflection by small amplitude bottom topography thus depends primarily on the bottom elevation variance at the Bragg resonance scales, and is insensitive to the detailed shape of the bottom profile. Relative errors in the energy reflection coefficient are found to be typically $2h/H$., Comment: Second revision for Journal of Waterways Ports and Coastal Engineering

The lowest order sigma-transformed momentum equation given by Mellor (J. Phys. Oceangr. 2003) takes into account a phase-averaged wave forcing based on Airy wave theory. This equation is shown to be generally inconsistent due to inadequate approximations of the wave motion. Indeed the evaluation of the vertical flux of momentum requires an estimation of the pressure $p$ and coordinate transformation function $s$ to first order in parameters that define the large scale evolution of the wave field, such as the bottom slope. Unfortunately there is no analytical expression for $p$ and $s$ at that order. A numerical correction method is thus proposed and verified. Alternative coordinate transforms that allow a separation of wave and mean flow momenta do not suffer from this inconsistency nor require a numerical estimation of the wave forcing. Indeed, the problematic vertical flux is part of the wave momentum flux, thus distinct from the mean flow momentum flux, and not directly relevant to the mean flow evolution., Comment: Submitted to Journal Physical Oceanography, August 2006. Revised, March 2007. Please note that the first version of this document was initially sbmitted to J. Fluid Mech. and contains errors (it was claimed that Mellor's equations had been derived from the alternative GLM equations of Andrews and McIntyre ... this was wrong)

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