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Facial pore enlargement is considered a significant esthetic and health concern in skincare cosmetics. The pores fulfill the critical function of keeping the skin surface hydrated and protected against microbial infections. The hyperseborrhea, the stress factors, and the hormonal triggers can cause pore size enlargement, causing higher susceptibility of the skin to microbe aggressions and inflammatory reactions. Thus, reducing excessive sebum production and keeping functional pores are two of the most requested activities in skincare cosmetics. A Cirsium eriophorum cell culture extract was investigated for its role in sebum regulation, stratum corneum desquamation, and anti-inflammation. The extract was able to regulate essential markers associated with sebum secretion and pore enlargements, such as the enzyme 5α-reductase, which plays a central role in sebum production, and the trypsin-like serine protease Kallikrein 5, which promotes skin exfoliation and antimicrobial response. Moreover, the extract showed a sebum-normalizing and pore refining activity in individuals having seborrheic or acne-prone skins, suggesting a role of the C. eriophorum extract in rebalancing altered skin conditions responsible for pore enlargement.

Human skin is colonized by diverse commensal microbes, making up the skin microbiota (SM), contributing to skin integrity and homeostasis. Many of the beneficial effects aroused by the SM are exerted by microbial metabolites such as short-chain fatty acids (SCFAs), including butyric acid. The SCFAs can be used in cosmetic formulations against skin diseases to protect SM by preserving and/or restoring their natural balance. Unpleasant sensorial properties and unfavorable physico-chemical properties of butyrate strongly limit its cosmetic use. In contrast, some butyrate derivatives, including phenylalanine butyramide (C13H18N2O2, FBA), a solid form of butyric acid, are odorless while retaining the pharmacokinetic properties and safety profile of butyric acid. This study assessed the FBA’s permeation across the skin and its soothing and anti-reddening potential to estimate its cosmetic application. The dosage method used to estimate FBA’s levels was validated to be sure of analytical results. The FBA diffusion tests were estimated in vitro using a Franz-type vertical diffusion cell. The soothing action was evaluated in vivo by Colorimeter CL400, measuring the erythema index. The results suggest that the FBA represents an innovative way to exploit the benefits of butyric acid in the cosmetic fields since it cannot reach the bloodstream, is odorless, and has a significative soothing action (decrease the erythema index −15.7% after 30′, and −17.8% after 60′).

in this paper is described AHA's and skin exfolation, PFPE phosphate and topical application. The comparision of their exfoliating activity and therapeutic index.

Scopo del lavoro è stato quello di preparare due emulsioni O/W al 10% in acido glicolico utilizzando la tecnologia degli acidi amfoterici, valutarne la stabilità, la tollerabilità cutanea e l'effetto efoliante.

The aim of this work was to synthesize new pro-vitamins of α-tocopherol (VE) able to release another moiety such as an amino acid, in order to obtain a combined antioxidant and moisturizing effect upon topical application. The new derivatives were characterized and tested for sensitivity to chemical and enzymatic hydrolysis. Lipophilicity was estimated using Log capacity factor and skin retention was determined in vitro , using rabbit ear skin as barrier. Five molecules were synthesized using L -proline, L -serine, L -tyrosine, L -asparagine, and L -citrulline as amino acidic moiety. All pro-vitamins showed similar or lower lipophilicity than α-tocopheryl acetate (VEAc), taken as reference, and similar stability in aqueous solutions. All pro-vitamins showed to be sensitive to enzymatic hydrolysis. None of the pro-vitamins crossed the skin in significant amounts, whereas they accumulated into the skin, in both the dermis and the epidermis. They are more hydrophilic and more water-soluble than the currently used acetate. © 2008 Wiley-Liss, Inc. and the American Pharmacists Association.

Glycolic acid (GA) and other alpha-hydroxyacids (AHAs) are common ingredients of products designed to accelerate exfoliation of the skin. It is known that acidic pHs are essential in order to increase the efficacy of AHA-based products. The formulator is, therefore, obliged to achieve a difficult balance between performance (skin exfoliation) and risks (skin irritation). In order to overcome this problem, many common organic acids, and combinations of them, have been proposed, with marginal improvements. The need for a new chemistry, in order to achieve better results, was evident, particularly from the point of view of safety. We decided, therefore, to investigate the efficacy of perfluoropolyether (PFPE) phosphate, a new acidic material, already proposed for lowering the pH without increasing skin irritation. Two gels containing PFPE phosphate at different pH values (3 and 7), an acidic gel containing GA at pH 3, and a neutral gel, without an active compound, were applied on 20 healthy volunteers and evaluated with regard to effects on the skin: *Exfoliation after a topical pre-treatment with these gels *Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and elasticity The main conclusion of the investigation was that PFPE phosphate has effects, particularly skin exfoliation rate, quite independent of the pH, and comparable to the gel containing GA at pH 3, apparently without the typical drawbacks of AHAs.

A new class of AT1 antagonists has been synthesized, replacing the imidazole of Losartan with an imidazo[1,2-a]pyridine moiety, the tetrazole ring with a carboxylic group, while the biphenyl group is linked by an amidic bond. The effects of the new synthesized angiotensin AT1 antagonists have been evaluated in vivo on the hypertensive response, caused by intravenous (i.v.) administration of ANGII , and compared with Losartan. Synthesized compounds have also been tested in vitro for the antagonism of ANGII-induced contraction of rat aortic ring, to demonstrate the ability to counteract the effects of the agonist in a physiologically relevant system. Affinity for AT1 receptor has been evaluated with an Angiotensin II Receptor binding assay calculating the compounds’ percentage inhibition values.