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Background/Objectives: Skin wrinkles result from a myriad of multifaceted processes involving intrinsic and extrinsic aging. To combat this effect, plant stem cells offer a renewable and eco-friendly source for various industries, including cosmeceuticals. Salvia miltiorrhiza (SM), which contains the bioactive compound Rosmarinic acid (RA) and has been proposed for its anti-wrinkle effect. Methods: In the present study, calli from SM were cultured and Quality by Design (QbD) was implemented to investigate the effect of different types and concentrations of elicitors; jasmonic acid (JA) and salicylic acid (SA). Both raised RA levels yet, jasmonic acid (50 µM) has resulted in the highest yield for RA, at 16 mg/g. A nanofiber patch was prepared and characterized in-vitro by the release percentage, drug content, swelling degree, scanning electron microscope, and surface roughness. Then, the anti-wrinkle effect of the patch was tested in a UV wrinkle-induced mouse model. Results: Interestingly, after treatment, there were visibly fewer wrinkles, and the skin was softer than in the untreated control group. This study suggests that the treatment exerted its effect through the Nrf2/Keap1 pathway, which plays a crucial role in cellular antioxidant protective processes. By activating this pathway through boosting Nrf2 and diminishing Keap1 cellular content, the nanofiber patch enhances the production of antioxidant enzymes, such as superoxide dismutase and glutathione peroxidase, enhancesglutathione, and reduces the skin lipid peroxidation, collectively indicating enhanced skin quality. Conclusions: In conclusion, this study highlights the importance of this formula as an anti-wrinkle treatment, and future clinical studies are recommended to further unveil the potential of this formula. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Honey is widely recognized for its potential benefits in skincare, yet its incorporation into formulations is challenging due to its stickiness. This study aimed to evaluate the effects of hand creams with varying concentrations of multifloral honey (0%, 5%, 10%, and 15% w/w) on skin parameters and to assess their application characteristics. Methods: A total of 24 volunteers were divided into two groups, each receiving a blinded pair of creams (0%/10% or 5%/15% honey) to apply on their left and right hands. Instrumental methods (Corneometer®, Tewameter®, Cutometer®, Visioscan®, and Visioline®) were used to measure skin parameters at the baseline, 15 min after the first application, and after 4 weeks of regular use. Sensory characteristics were evaluated through participant questionnaires. Results: After 4 weeks, honey-infused creams showed notable improvements in skin moisturization (up to 29.7%), smoothness (up to 21.3%), wrinkle area reduction (up to 21.4%), and mean wrinkle depth reduction (up to 11.7%). Among these, the increases in moisturization and reductions in wrinkle depth were statistically significant compared to the placebo. The sensory evaluations revealed no significant differences between formulations, highlighting the vehicle's effectiveness in minimizing the stickiness typically associated with honey. Conclusions: This study highlights the efficacy of honey-enriched hand creams in enhancing skin parameters over time while maintaining favorable sensory characteristics. These findings support the use of honey in dermatological formulations and provide insights into overcoming its formulation challenges. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Reactive Oxygen Species can reduce collagen density in the skin, causing wrinkles, characterized by indentations on the skin's surface. Preventing wrinkles may be achieved by using a clay stick mask arrangement with jackfruit (ArtocarpusheterophyllusLamk.) leaf ethanol extract. The ethanol extract of jackfruit leaves contains alkaloid, flavonoid, tannin, saponin, and quercetin compounds of 6.84 mg/g with moderate antioxidant activity. The clay stick mask has been shown to offer ultra protection that has the potential as an anti-wrinkle. This research aims to evaluate the anti-wrinkle activity of the clay stick mask. An experimental method includes a clay stick mask base, a retinol clay stick mask, and a 5% and 10% concentration clay stick mask. The antiwrinkle activity of clay stick masks was tested in vivo using male white rats. The test results showed that clay stick masks with retinol and 10% concentration were more effective in inhibiting epidermal thickening. Observation made with a 75 mm diameter lup showed that the retinol clay stick mask had the best results. Scanning Electron Microscopy (SEM) was used to study the skin parameters such as wrinkles. Rat with negative, positive control groups, 5% and 10% clay stick mask treatment groups obtained the results of wrinkle scores successively: 0.33 ± 0.57, 1.33 ± 0.57, 0.33 ± 0.57. Based on the statistical analysis, there was a significant contrast between the negative control group and the others. Clay stick masks were able to protect skin damage due to UV exposure which can accelerate aging and wrinkles. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The mechanism research of skin wrinkles, conducted on volunteers underwent high‐intensity desk work and mice subjected to partial sleep deprivation, revealed a significant reduction in dermal thickness associated with the presence of wrinkles. This can be attributed to the activation of facial nerves in a state of hysteria due to an abnormally elevated interaction between SNAP25 and RAB3A proteins involved in the synaptic vesicle cycle (SVC). Facilitated by AI‐assisted structural design, a refined peptide called RSIpep is developed to modulate this interaction and normalize SVC. Drawing inspiration from prions, which possess the ability to protect themselves against proteolysis and invade neighboring nerve cells through macropinocytosis, RSIpep is engineered to demonstrate a GSH‐responsive reversible self‐assembly into a prion‐like supermolecule (RSIprion). RSIprion showcases protease resistance, micropinocytosis‐dependent cellular internalization, and low adhesion with constituent molecules in the cuticle, thereby endowing it with the transdermic absorption and subsequent biofunction in redressing the frenzied SVC. As a facial mud mask, it effectively reduces periorbital and perinasal wrinkles in the human face. Collectively, RSIprion not only presents a clinical potential as an anti‐wrinkle prion‐like supermolecule, but also exemplifies a reproducible instance of bionic strategy‐guided drug development that bestows transdermal ability upon the pharmaceutical molecule. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Peptides, composed of 2–50 amino acids, have gained attention in anti-aging treatments due to their high safety, low irritation, and cost-effective production. This study aimed to evaluate the anti-wrinkle efficacy of Tetrapeptide-68, derived from the skin structural protein Loricrin, on periorbital wrinkles in women aged 30–65 years. A 12-week, double-blind, randomized controlled trial was conducted with 25 participants who applied the Tetrapeptide-68 (100 ppm) O/W formulation around the eyes. Skin physiological parameters were assessed at baseline, 4, 8, and 12 weeks. Participants also completed efficacy and usability questionnaires. Significant improvements in wrinkle reduction were observed with Tetrapeptide-68 cream treatment, as measured by various skin roughness parameters and 3D imaging analysis. Participants reported positive changes in skin texture and moisture levels, with no adverse reactions noted. Tetrapeptide-68 cream demonstrates promising anti-wrinkle effects, highlighting its potential as an effective ingredient in anti-aging skincare formulations. Further studies are recommended to explore its long-term benefits and underlying mechanisms. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Detergent & Cosmetics is the property of Detergent & Cosmetics Editorial Office and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Farmacia is the property of Societatea de Stiinte Farmaceutice Romania and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Detergent & Cosmetics is the property of Detergent & Cosmetics Editorial Office and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of Detergent & Cosmetics is the property of Detergent & Cosmetics Editorial Office and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Copyright of China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics (2097-2806) is the property of China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics Editorial Office and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Injectable hyaluronic acid (HA) hydrogel plays an important role in dermal filling. However, conventional HA dermal fillers mostly lack bio‐functional diversity and frequently cause adverse reactions because of the chemical stiffness of highly modified degree and crosslinker residues. In this study, polylactic acid (PLA) was embedded into HA hydrogel as a bioactive substance and 1,4‐butanediol diglycidyl ether was used as a crosslinker to prepare the HA/PLA composite hydrogel with enhanced biocompatibility and biological performance. We aimed to investigate the properties of HA/PLA composite hydrogels as dermal fillers by assessing the rheological properties, surface microstructure, enzymolysis stability, swelling ratio, degradation rate, cytotoxicity, and anti‐wrinkle effect on photo‐aged skin. The results showed that the stability and stiffness of the composite hydrogel decreased with an increasing amount of PLA, while the in vivo safety of the HA/PLA hydrogel was enhanced, showing no adverse reactions such as edema, redness, or swelling. Moreover, the composite hydrogel with 2 wt% PLA exhibited excellent anti‐wrinkle effects, showing the highest collagen production. Thus, the PLA‐embedded HA composite hydrogel showed potential as a dermal filler with high safety, easy injectability, and excellent anti‐wrinkle effects. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from sunlight accelerates skin ageing, which is followed by harsh, thick, dry and loose conditions. One of the most demonstrative symptoms is deep wrinkles induced by skin barrier disruption. Our previous research showed that Phaseolus angularis seed extract (PASE) effectively inhibits skin ageing through UVB protection in HaCaT cells by suppressing skin damage. However, its efficacy has not been evaluated in clinical trials so far. PASE cream's effectiveness was initially tested on the artificial skin model, revealing an increase in filaggrin and defence against skin damage. Based on these results, in this single‐centred, randomized, double‐blind study, we investigated the anti‐ageing effect of PASE in human eye wrinkle areas. For these 21 healthy adult women aged 30 to 59, a PASE cream was applied to the right eye wrinkle area and a placebo to the left eye wrinkle area twice a day (morning and evening) for 12 weeks. The change in thick, deep crease wrinkles around the eyes was confirmed by visual evaluation, skin measurements and a questionnaire. As a result, the surface roughness (R1), maximum roughness (R2), average roughness (R3), smoothness depth (R4) and arithmetic mean roughness (R5) values in the group using the PASE cream all decreased. Particularly, R1, R4 and R5 significantly decreased by 18.1%, 18.6% and 25.0%, respectively. Subjects who applied PASE cream also experienced an improvement in skin moisture nearly twice the time compared to the placebo group. In addition, no participants reported side effects. Our study showed that PASE cream led to clinically significant levels of wrinkle improvement. In conclusion, as PASE is a natural, safe food with no side effects, it can be a good resource for natural anti‐wrinkle functional cosmetics in the future. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Exosomes are small vesicles released from cells and are found in various mammalian biological fluids, such as bovine milk, which has been employed in skincare for many years, apart from its dairy applications. In addition, exosomes have been recognized as vehicles for intercellular communication. Aims: In this study, we aimed to investigate the novel effects of bovine milk‐derived exosomes (MK‐Exo) on antiaging in human skin. Methods: Initially, MK‐Exo were co‐cultured with keratinocytes and fibroblasts; subsequent analysis involved qPCR and western blotting to assess induced gene expression. Subsequently, MK‐Exo were topically applied to the facial skin of 31 female volunteers twice daily for 28 days. The functions were evaluated after conducting safety assessments in vivo. Results: Purified MK‐Exo demonstrated the ability to be taken up directly by keratinocytes and fibroblasts in vitro, resulting in the upregulation of natural factors associated with skin moisturization, including filaggrin (FLG), aquaporin 3 (AQP3), and CD44 in keratinocytes, as well as hyaluronidase (HAS2) in fibroblasts. Concurrently, MK‐Exo promoted fibroblast cell migration and restored the expression of type I and III collagen (Col I and Col III) following exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Furthermore, phototoxicity, photoallergy, repeated skin irritation, skin allergy, and patch tests confirmed the safety of MK‐Exo for skin application. Finally, we elucidated the roles of MK‐Exo in preserving moisture and reducing wrinkles in humans. Conclusion: Our findings unveil the novel contributions of MK‐Exo to human skin aging, presenting a new avenue in the field of skincare. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The glutamine–histidine–glycine–valine (QHGV), a peptide derived from oysters, exhibits antioxidant activity and is being actively researched as a potential pharmaceutical and functional cosmetic ingredient. In this study, we synthesized the QHGV peptide and explored the hitherto unknown anti-inflammatory effects of QHGV. The antioxidant property was also characterized by conjugating with various naturally derived phenolic acids, such as caffeic, gallic, ferulic, sinapinic, and vanillic acids. Conjugation with phenolic acids not only enhanced the antioxidant activity of QHGV but also diminished the lipopolysaccharide-induced generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the murine macrophage cell line, RAW 264.7. The reduction in the levels of reactive oxygen species led to the reduced mRNA expression of inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNos) and cyclooxygenase 2 (Cox-2), resulting in an anti-inflammatory effect through the inhibition of the phosphorylation of mitogen-activated protein kinase, including extracellular signal-activated protein kinase, c-Jun NH2-terminal kinase, and p38. Furthermore, the phenolic acid-conjugated peptides increased the mRNA and protein levels of collagen type I, indicative of a wrinkle-improvement effect. The phenolic acid conjugates of the peptide were not cytotoxic to human keratinocytes such as HaCaT cells. These results suggest that phenolic acid conjugation can enhance the potential of peptides as drug and cosmetic resources. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Botulinum neurotoxins represent a revolution in cosmetic science because of their extraordinary and long-term anti-wrinkle properties. Nevertheless, high neurotoxicity severely limits their usage. Therefore, design and validation of new non-toxic molecules which mimics the Botox are needed. Here, acetyl octapeptide-3 is used which mimics the effect mechanism of botulinum neurotoxin to reduces the depth of wrinkles, was chosen as an alternative molecule. Glutamic acid containing poly(2-hydroxyethyl methacrylate–methacryloylamidoglutamic acid) [p(HEMAG)] nanoparticles were synthesized for controlled release of acetyl octapeptide-3 to increase the efficiency on the related area. Scanning electron microscopy and atomic force microscopy were used to state the morphological characteristics of the synthesized nanoparticles, and the Fourier transform infrared was used to characterize chemical structures; additionally, the dimensional analysis was carried out by using a zeta-sizer device, and then, characterized nanoparticles were used for loading acetyl octapeptide-3. Time, pH, ionic strength, temperature and concentration experiments were performed to optimize the adsorption conditions of the acetyl octapeptide-3 to the nanoparticles. The maximum acetyl octapeptide-3 adsorption capacity onto nanoparticles was found 220.69 mg/g. The pH and temperature experiments were carried out to follow-up the release conditions of acetyl octapeptide-3-loaded nanoparticles. Lastly, cytotoxicity tests were done by using Alamar Blue method and Lactate Dehydrogenase (LDH) Assay. Our results imply that the developed nanocosmetic material is non-toxic, efficient and cost-effective and it is promising to use in anti-wrinkle treatment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Nymphoides peltata has been widely used pharmacologically in traditional Chinese medicine to treat heat strangury and polyuria. The aim of this study was to isolate the bioactive components from N. peltata and evaluate their potential use as antioxidant and anti-wrinkle agents. Phytochemical investigation of the methanolic extract of N. peltata roots led to the isolation of 15 compounds (1–15), which were structurally determined as α-spinasterol (1), 3-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-oleanolic acid 28-O-β-D-glucuronopyranoside (2), 4-hydroxybenzoic acid (3), protocatechuic acid (4), vanillic acid (5), p-coumaric acid (6), caffeic acid (7), ferulic acid (8), neochlorogenic acid (neo-CQA) (9), chlorogenic acid (CQA) (10), cryptochlorogenic acid (crypto-CQA) (11), isochlorogenic acid B (3,4-DCQA) (12), isochlorogenic acid A (3,5-DCQA) (13), isochlorogenic acid C (4,5-DCQA) (14), and 3,4,5-tri-O-caffeoylquinic acid (TCQA) (15). Of these 15 compounds, compound 2 was a new oleanane saponin, the chemical structure of which was characterized by 1D and 2D nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopic data and high-resolution electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (HRESIMS), as well as chemical reaction. Biological evaluation of the isolated compounds revealed that 3,4,5-tri-O-caffeoylquinic acid (TCQA) significantly improved Nrf2 levels in an Nrf2–ARE reporter HaCaT cell screening assay. TCQA was found to potently inhibit the Nrf2/HO-1 pathway and to possess strong anti-wrinkle activity by modulating the MAPK/NF-κB/AP-1 signaling pathway and thus inhibiting MMP-1 synthesis in HaCaT cells exposed to UVB. Our results suggest that TCQA isolated from N. peltata might be useful for developing effective antioxidant and anti-wrinkle agents. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background/Aim: As the largest organ of the human body, the skin serves as a critical barrier against environmental damage. However, many factors, such as genetics, sun exposure, and lifestyle choices can lead to skin damage creating wrinkles, sagging, and loss of elasticity. The use of skincare products containing natural ingredients has become increasingly popular as a way to combat the signs of aging. Caviar oil is one such ingredient that has gained attention due to its rich composition of fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals. The objective of this study was to investigate the potential anti-aging effects of caviar oil and to develop a product, Cavi Balm, which could potentially reduce wrinkles and skin sagging. Materials and Methods: An in vitro model using the 3T3-L1 cell line was employed to assess the effect of caviar oil on adipocyte differentiation. An ex vivo study using human skin tissue was conducted to investigate the impact of caviar oil on collagen and elastin formation and the expression of matrix metalloproteinase-1,2,9 (MMP-1, MMP-2, MMP-9). Furthermore, 102 participants were enrolled in five clinical studies to evaluate the anti-aging efficacy of our product, “Cavi Balm”, in facial and neck wrinkles, facial and eye area lifting, and various skin parameters, such as skin moisture, skin elasticity, skin density, skin tightening relief, skin clarity, and skin turnover. Results: In vitro, caviar oil enhanced adipocyte differentiation, and increased lipid accumulation inside the cells. The ex vivo analysis revealed that caviar oil reduced the expression levels of MMP-1, MMP-2, and MMP-9, and increased the formation of elastin and collagen I, III. Moreover, in the clinical study, Cavi Balm improved skin parameters after one-time use, with more significant effects observed after four weeks of usage. Conclusion: Caviar oil has a substantial impact on mitigating skin aging and holds potential for application in anti-aging products. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

It has been reported that the essential oil extracted from Abies koreana has skin-improving activity, such as anti-wrinkle and whitening effect. However, the key ingredients that facilitate such biological activity has not been fully elucidated. In the present study, to identify the key skin-improving component(s) of the A. koreana essential oil, 10 sequentially fractioned essential oil from A. koreana pine by hydrodistillation were examined for their effect on tyrosinase activity. Out of 10 fractions, only 1 fraction significantly suppressed tyrosinase activity, and subsequent GC/MS analysis indicated that borneol and its acetate ester, bornyl acetate, were unique to the effective fraction, suggesting they are responsible for the skin-improving activity of the essential oil from A. koreana. The biological activity of borneol was evaluated, and borneol significantly inhibited ultraviolet irradiation-induced tyrosinase and matrix metalloproteinase 1 activity while maintain collagen type I synthesis. The results of this study suggest that borneol is a key component of A. koreana essential oil that has potential for mediating whitening and anti-wrinkle effects.

Soybean-derived peptides exert several beneficial effects in various experimental models. However, only a few studies have focused on the radical scavenging and anti-wrinkle effects of soymilk-derived peptides produced via different processes, such as fermentation, enzymatic treatment, and ultrafiltration. Therefore, in this study, we investigated the radical scavenging and antiwrinkle effects of soymilk fractions produced using these processes. We found that 50SFMKUF5, a 5 kDa ultrafiltration fraction fermented with Lacticaseibacillus paracasei MK1 after flavourzyme treatment, exhibited the highest radical scavenging activity using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical scavenging assay as well as potent anti-wrinkle effects assessed by type 1 procollagen production and tumor necrosis factor-α production in ultraviolet B (UVB)-treated human dermal fibroblasts and HaCaT keratinocytes. To identify potential bioactive peptides, candidate peptides were synthesized, and their anti-wrinkle effects were assessed. APEFLKEAFGVN (APE), palmitoyl-APE, and QIVTVEGGLSVISPK peptides were synthesized and used to treat UVB-irradiated fibroblasts, HaCaT keratinocytes, and α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-induced B16F1 melanoma cells. Among these peptides, Pal-APE exerted the strongest effect. Our results highlight the potential of soymilk peptides as anti-aging substances. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The glutamine–histidine–glycine–valine (QHGV), a peptide derived from oysters, exhibits antioxidant activity and is being actively researched as a potential pharmaceutical and functional cosmetic ingredient. In this study, we synthesized the QHGV peptide and explored the hitherto unknown anti-inflammatory effects of QHGV. The antioxidant property was also characterized by conjugating with various naturally derived phenolic acids, such as caffeic, gallic, ferulic, sinapinic, and vanillic acids. Conjugation with phenolic acids not only enhanced the antioxidant activity of QHGV but also diminished the lipopolysaccharide-induced generation of reactive oxygen species (ROS) in the murine macrophage cell line, RAW 264.7. The reduction in the levels of reactive oxygen species led to the reduced mRNA expression of inducible nitric oxide synthase (iNos) and cyclooxygenase 2 (Cox-2), resulting in an anti-inflammatory effect through the inhibition of the phosphorylation of mitogen-activated protein kinase, including extracellular signal-activated protein kinase, c-Jun NH2-terminal kinase, and p38. Furthermore, the phenolic acid-conjugated peptides increased the mRNA and protein levels of collagen type I, indicative of a wrinkle-improvement effect. The phenolic acid conjugates of the peptide were not cytotoxic to human keratinocytes such as HaCaT cells. These results suggest that phenolic acid conjugation can enhance the potential of peptides as drug and cosmetic resources.

Ginkgo biloba (GB) leaves extract is known to possess potent antioxidants and other bioactivities such as improved skin conditions and rejuvenation. This study aimed to develop a cosmeceutical preparation to utilize the strong antioxidant potential of GB leaves as part of the skincare formulation. Cream incorporated GB (GBC) was prepared by mixing the obtained extract with stearic acid-sodium hydroxide components in an emulsion format. The obtained GBC was characterized for GB contents, uniformity, pH, compatibility, stability, and skin's human application. A homogeneous, physically, and chemically stable, with pH near the skin pH and shiny cream, was obtained. The prepared cream was easy to rub and pearly in appearance. It was effective and safe during the two-week trial conducted on human volunteers according to clinical trial registry protocols. The cream scavenged free radicals in DPPH assay tests. The cream incorporated GB made the skin more spirited and tauter. Furthermore, the wrinkles were reduced and the skin was renewed vigor. The GBC worked at the topical level and provided benefits when applied daily for the trial duration. The formulation also provided visually observable anti-wrinkle effects on the skin, with visible improvements in the skin's shape and texture. The prepared cream can be used to rejuvenate the skin. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The essential oil of lavender, lemon, and cinnamon (LaLC) combination is rich in antioxidants and potentially be used as an anti-wrinkle and strengthens the collagen tissue. Ultraviolet B (UVB) radiation is a free radical source that accelerates the aging process and reduces collagen production. This study aims to characterize the chemical components of each oil and determine the best combination as an anti-wrinkle substance. The test was conducted on twenty-four Wistar male rats (Mus musculus) that were divided into six experimental groups consisting of the normal (N), control (C), vehicle control (V), first treatment (T1), second treatment (T2), and third treatment (T3) groups. Each sample was rubbed upon, and the UVB irradiation was administered frequently to each subject. The embedded skin specimen was analyzed using a digital-capable microscope. Data were analyzed through the Kolmogorov-Smirnov normality test, one-way analysis of variance (ANOVA), and the post-hoc Tukey's Honest Significant Difference test. Lavender, lemon, and cinnamon essential oils contained each most significant component, which was linalool (41.46% peak area), dl limonene (44.74% peak area), and 2-propenal, 3-phenyl- (CAS) (53.89% peak area), respectively according to the Gas Chromatography-Mass Spectrometry (GC-MS) analysis. The T1 showed the best score of all parameters and did not show significant significance compared to the N group. In conclusion, the 1:1:3 combination of LaLC is better in preventing in vitro photoaging than other treatment groups.

Collagen-based skincare products can replenish collagen in the skin; however, collagen cannot easily penetrate the dermis, limiting its effectiveness. Therefore, nanomaterials that can enable collagen to effectively penetrate the dermis are urgently needed. This study aimed to determine the potential role of the supramolecular collagen nanoparticles, namely, lactoferrin, recombinant human collagen, and palmitoyl tripeptide-5, in improving the effectiveness of skincare products. Lactoferrin and recombinant collagen served as carriers encapsulating palmitoyl tripeptide-5, with an encapsulation rate of 94.18 %. The supramolecular collagen nanoparticles demonstrated good stability after 1 month. Transdermal efficiency was improved by 69.90 %, allowing the nanoparticles to penetrate deeply into the dermis. Within 28 days of use, the moisture content of the stratum corneum increased by 10.51 %, facial elasticity improved by 8.15 %, skin firmness increased by 12.53 %, facial melanin index decreased by 1.84 %, and individual type angle increased by 19.10 %. Within 14 days, there was a 24.69 % reduction in eye bag wrinkles and a 37.61 % reduction in nasolabial wrinkles. Wrinkle lengths decreased by 10.22 % and 21.57 %, and areas decreased by 34.41 % and 27.92 %, respectively. The supramolecular collagen nanoparticles displayed multiple skincare benefits, including moisturizing, whitening, wrinkle reduction, and firming. In conclusion, the supramolecular collagen nanoparticles are promising candidates for cosmetic products. [Display omitted] • Lactoferrin was the first time used to encapsulate collagen and peptide into NPs for transdermal drug delivery. • Transdermal efficiency of collagen loaded lactoferrin NPs was improved 70 %. • Collagen loaded lactoferrin NPs displayed significant anti-wrinkle effects. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Caragana sinica (CS; family Legume) was used as a medicinal material to treat neuralgia and arthritis in folk remedies and has been shown to have antioxidant, neuroprotective, and anti-apoptotic effects. However, CS is unknown for its biological activities related to skin. The present study explored the effects of CS flower absolute (CSFAb) on skin repair responses, viz., wound healing and anti-wrinkle-related responses using keratinocytes. CSFAb was extracted using hexane, and its composition was analyzed by GC/MS. The effects of CSFAb on human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells) were evaluated using Boyden chamber, sprouting, water-soluble tetrazolium salt, 5-bromo-2′-deoxyuridine incorporation, ELISA, zymography, and immunoblotting assays. GC/MS detected 46 components in CSFAb. In addition, in HaCaT cells, CSFAb increased the proliferation, migration, and sprout outgrowth and the phosphorylation of ERK1/2, JNK, p38 MAPK, and AKT, and also increased collagen type I and IV synthesis, reduced TNF-α-increased MMP-2 and MMP-9 activities, and upregulated hyaluronic acid (HA) and HA synthase-2 levels. These effects of CSFAb on wound healing and anti-wrinkle-related responses in keratinocytes suggest its potential use for skin repair and care preparations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Cannabidiol (CBD), derived from the plant cannabis, can be used in the cosmetics industry for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-wrinkle and whitening effects. However, CBD is purified from the hemp plant extract, its source is very limited and under strict control. So in this study, computational and experimental methods were combined to search for novel CBD substitutes with high biology potencies. The action mode between CBD and target protein cannabidiol receptor 1 was studied to find the key skeleton, which was used to virtually screen a natural products database to search for compounds with 70% similarity. The hit compounds with high docking scores were selected for the ABTS and DPPH free radical scavenging experiments for antioxidant evaluation. The effects on the expressions of nitric oxide (NO), interleukin-6 (IL-6), COX-2 and iNOS in RAW264.7 cell line were detected to demonstrate their anti-inflammatory abilities. The effect of anti-wrinkle ability were evaluated by detecting the extracellular matrix, such as collagen, elastin, fibronectin and reactive oxygen species (ROS) in HFF-1. The effects on melanin production and tyrosinase activity in Bb16F10 were also detected. As a result, two compounds were found to be superior to cannabidiol, in terms of antioxidant, anti-wrinkle and whitening efficacy with a lower cytotoxicity. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Taking acetyl hexapeptide-8 liposome as the research object, the enzymatic resistance, sustained release ability, skin penetration ability, the efficacy on human skin and the safety thereof, were studied by in vitro and in vivo methods. The results showed that, in an in vitro enzymatic environment simulated by skin extracts, acetyl hexapeptide-8 liposome was resistant to the enzymatic degradation, which was better than acetyl hexapeptide-8. In the in vitro environment of normal saline, acetyl hexapeptide-8 liposome had sustained release ability, which was better than acetyl hexapeptide-8. According to the observation of in vitro animal skin, the skin penetration of acetyl hexapeptide-8 liposome was better than that of acetyl hexapeptide-8. The effects of acetyl hexapeptide-8 liposome emulsion in anti-wrinkling and increasing the water content of stratum corneum were significantly better than that of the acetyl hexapeptide-8 emulsion with the same peptide content. Acetyl hexapeptide-8 liposome was safe, and it could be an active ingredient for anti-wrinkle and moisturizing skin care products. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: There is active research on developing materials for improving skin function. Eggshell membrane (ESM) is one such raw material that is consumed as a functional food to support skin health. However, studies on the mechanism of improvement of skin function on ingestion of ESM are still lacking. Objectives: To explore this mechanism of action, we conducted an ultraviolet (UV) irradiation study on a SKH-1 hairless mouse model. Feeding ESM was found to improve skin moisture and reduce wrinkles during 12 weeks of UVB irradiation. Results: Oral administration of ESM restored moisture in the dorsal skin tissue of mice. In addition, oral ingestion of ESM also reversed the increased transepidermal water loss and reduction of mRNA expression of hyaluronic synthases induced by UVB irradiation. Furthermore, UVB irradiation-induced collagen degradation was inhibited, and the expression of the collagenase MMP was reduced in the ESM intake group compared to the control. These results confirmed that oral ingestion of the ESM has an anti-wrinkle effect. In addition, the mRNA expression of the antioxidant enzyme SOD1, which was reduced on UVB irradiation, was restored on ingestion of the ESM. Restoring the expression of antioxidant enzymes is a key strategy for improving skin function of the ESM. Conclusion: Taken together, the findings from our study reveal the potential of ESM as a nutricosmetic material with anti-wrinkle and skin moisturizing properties. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Yuja (Citrus junos) has been cultivated and used for food and medicinal purposes in China and Korea. Its antioxidant, anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, and whitening effects were evaluated in HaCaT, HDF, and B16F10 cells. UVB has been known to cause cellular stress and the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Ambivalence of oxidative stress has been reported; however, excessive levels of ROS contribute to skin aging through the loss of elasticity and collagen fibers of connective tissue in the dermis. Skin aging is one of the biological processes that is affected by various factors, including UVB. Pro-Collagen I and hyaluronic acid contents were measured in UVB-irradiated HaCaT and HDF cells to evaluate the anti-wrinkle and moisturizing effects of Yuja-peel (YJP) fractions in -EA (ethyl acetate), -Hex (hexane), and -BuOH (butanol). The expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) involved in collagen degradation was confirmed to be inhibited by YJP fractions at both the protein and mRNA levels. Filaggrin and serine palmitoyltransferase (SPT), which are moisturizing factors, were induced by YJP fractions. B16F10 cells were treated with α-MSH to induce hyperpigmentation, and then the whitening efficacy of YJP fractions was verified by observing a decrease in melanin content. Overall, our results contribute to the development of various novel skin-improving cosmetics and pharmaceuticals with YJP fractions as active ingredients. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Selaginellaceae plants are used in cosmetics to limit skin aging. This study is the first to investigate the anti-aging effects of Selaginella rossii (SR) on ultraviolet B (UVB)- and oxidative stress-induced skin cells. The 95% ethanol extract of Selaginella rossii (SR95E) contained much higher amounts of amentoflavone (AMF), an active compound, than other Selaginellaceae plants and was more effective in inhibiting matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression in CCD-986sk fibroblasts. SR95E significantly decreased UVB-induced MMP-1, MMP-2, MMP-3 and MMP-9 expression and enhanced procollagen type I C-peptide content and mRNA expression of collagen type I alpha (COL1A)1 and COL1A2 in CCD-986sk fibroblasts. In HaCaT keratinocytes, SR95E treatment also dose-dependently decreased UVB-induced MMP-1 concentration and MMP-1, MMP-2, MMP-3 and MMP-9 mRNA expression. Moreover, SR95E treatment markedly inhibited UVB-induced c-Jun N-terminal kinase and p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase signaling and nuclear factor kappa-B signaling in HaCaT cells. Furthermore, SR95E and AMF markedly regulated the 2,2′-azobis(2-amidinopropane) dihydrochloride (AAPH)-induced expression of cellular senescence-related markers, including p16, p21 and LMNB1, in HaCaT cells. Overall, this study indicates that SR may have potential as a functional material on preventing UVB- and AAPH-induced skin aging and wrinkles. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics (1001-1803) is the property of China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics Editorial Office and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Background: Skin aging is a multifaceted condition marked by the development of wrinkles, reduced suppleness, and uneven pigmentation. Both endogenous and exogenous factors contribute to skin aging. Studies have examined the possible anti-aging advantages of horsetail and soybean extracts, which are abundant in antioxidants., Methods: A study was conducted to develop and assess the stability of an anti-wrinkle cream combining horsetail and soybean extracts over a period of 6 months. This study was a pilot study that was prospective and noncomparative in nature. An investigation was performed to explore the efficiency of a treatment on wrinkles on the forehead. The study involved 15 volunteers between the ages of 35 and 55, and the modified Fitzpatrick wrinkle grading scale (FWS) method was used to assess the results. The participants were directed to administer cream to the forehead region for a duration of eight sequential weeks. Images were acquired at the initial stage and after 8 weeks of treatment. An independent investigator evaluated the improvement in the overall appearance of the forehead skin by comparing clinical images taken before and after the therapy., Results: The cream exhibited exceptional stability, showing no noteworthy alterations in pH, viscosity, or microbiological count. The clinical findings demonstrated a notable decrease in the average FWS score from 8.7 ± 1.3 to 6.1 ± 1.8 (p < 0.005) after the treatment. 93.4% of the individuals experienced a positive alteration in the appearance of their forehead wrinkles., Conclusion: The formulated cream presents a hopeful method to tackle skin aging issues, backed by its durability and effectiveness in diminishing wrinkles. Additional investigation is necessary to clarify the underlying mechanisms., Trial Registration: IRCT20190917044799N1., (© 2024 The Author(s). Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.)

A major sign of aging is wrinkles (dynamic lines and static lines) on the surface of the skin. In spite of Botulinum toxin’s favorable therapeutic effect today, there have been several reports of its toxicity and side effects. Therefore, the development of an effective and safe wrinkle-fighting compound is imperative. An antioxidant-wrinkle effect was demonstrated by the peptide that we developed and synthesized, termed Skin Peptide. Aiming at the intrinsic defects of the peptide such as hydrolysis and poor membrane penetration, we developed a general approach to transform the Skin Peptide targeting intracellular protein-protein interaction into a bioavailable peptide-gold spherical nano-hybrid, Skin Pcluster. As expected, the results revealed that Skin Pcluster reduced the content of acetylcholine released by neurons in vitro, and then inhibit neuromuscular signal transmission. Additionally, human experiments demonstrated a significant de-wrinkle effect. Moreover, Skin Pcluster is characterized by a reliable safety profile. Consequently, anti-wrinkle peptides and Skin Pcluster nanohybrids demonstrated innovative anti-wrinkle treatments and have significant potential applications.

Nymphoides peltata has been widely used pharmacologically in traditional Chinese medicine to treat heat strangury and polyuria. The aim of this study was to isolate the bioactive components from N. peltata and evaluate their potential use as antioxidant and anti-wrinkle agents. Phytochemical investigation of the methanolic extract of N. peltata roots led to the isolation of 15 compounds (1–15), which were structurally determined as α-spinasterol (1), 3-O-β-D-glucopyranosyl-oleanolic acid 28-O-β-D-glucuronopyranoside (2), 4-hydroxybenzoic acid (3), protocatechuic acid (4), vanillic acid (5), p-coumaric acid (6), caffeic acid (7), ferulic acid (8), neochlorogenic acid (neo-CQA) (9), chlorogenic acid (CQA) (10), cryptochlorogenic acid (crypto-CQA) (11), isochlorogenic acid B (3,4-DCQA) (12), isochlorogenic acid A (3,5-DCQA) (13), isochlorogenic acid C (4,5-DCQA) (14), and 3,4,5-tri-O-caffeoylquinic acid (TCQA) (15). Of these 15 compounds, compound 2 was a new oleanane saponin, the chemical structure of which was characterized by 1D and 2D nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopic data and high-resolution electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (HRESIMS), as well as chemical reaction. Biological evaluation of the isolated compounds revealed that 3,4,5-tri-O-caffeoylquinic acid (TCQA) significantly improved Nrf2 levels in an Nrf2–ARE reporter HaCaT cell screening assay. TCQA was found to potently inhibit the Nrf2/HO-1 pathway and to possess strong anti-wrinkle activity by modulating the MAPK/NF-κB/AP-1 signaling pathway and thus inhibiting MMP-1 synthesis in HaCaT cells exposed to UVB. Our results suggest that TCQA isolated from N. peltata might be useful for developing effective antioxidant and anti-wrinkle agents.

Objectives: The aim of this study was to screen the lactic acid bacteria for fermentation of adlay bran and evaluate the anti‐wrinkle effect of fermented and non‐fermented adlay bran. Methods: Adlay bran was fermented with candidate LAB and extracted with 70% ethanol. The extracts from LAB‐fermented adlay bran and non‐fermented adlay bran were evaluated for the anti‐wrinkle effects by measuring the hyaluronan, collagen, and elastin production in cells using ELISA kit. The molecular anti‐wrinkle mechanism was investigated by RT‐qPCR. Furthermore, the antioxidant activity, total phenolic and flavonoid content were also determined. Results: Among the tested LAB, Lactobacillus brevis MJM60390 was selected for the highest glycosidase activity. Both extracts from adlay bran (NFAB) and L. brevis MJM60390‐fermented adlay bran (LBFAB) showed anti‐wrinkle effect, and LBFAB showed higher activity. Compared with control, hyaluronan production was increased by 24.73% and 59.38%, collagen production was increased by −13.08% and 34.19%, and the elastin production was increased by 29.78% and 53.73% by NFAB and LBFAB treatment, respectively. Investigation on the mRNA expression showed that LBFAB upregulated the expression of Has 2 and Has 3 and downregulate HYAL1 and HYAL2. LBFAB also upregulated the mRNA expression of COL1A1, COL1A2, ELN and inhibited the expression of collagenase and elastase. However, not all of these genes were regulated by NFAB. Furthermore, the antioxidant activity was significantly increased after fermentation, and the content of the phenolic and flavonoid compounds also increased in the LBFAB. Conclusions: In this study, we demonstrated that fermentation of adlay bran with L. brevis MJM60390 enhanced the anti‐wrinkle activity through increasing the hyaluronan synthesis in keratinocytes and improving collagen and elastin production in dermal fibroblasts. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Copyright of Detergent & Cosmetics is the property of Detergent & Cosmetics Editorial Office and its content may not be copied or emailed to multiple sites or posted to a listserv without the copyright holder's express written permission. However, users may print, download, or email articles for individual use. This abstract may be abridged. No warranty is given about the accuracy of the copy. Users should refer to the original published version of the material for the full abstract. (Copyright applies to all Abstracts.)

Background: Collagen forms a dermal matrix in the skin. Biosynthesis and decomposition of collagen are the major processes in skin aging. Propolis is rich in flavonoids and phenolic compounds, which are known to be effective in preventing skin aging, including the enhancement of fibroblast proliferation, activation, and growth capacity. Objectives: The aim of this study was to develop a poorly soluble propolis extract as an active ingredient in cosmetic products for anti‐aging efficacy. Methods & Results: Polymeric nanoparticles containing propolis extract, polyethylene glycol 400, and poloxamer 407 were prepared via a temperature‐induced phase transition method. The particle size of the polymeric nanoparticles was approximately 20.75 nm. The results of an in vitro procollagen type I carboxy‐terminal peptide assay and a matrix metalloproteinase‐1 inhibition assay showed that the polymeric nanoparticles increased collagen production by 19.81%–24.59% compared to blank (p < 0.05), and significantly reduced intracellular collagenase activity by 7.46%–31.52% compared to blank (p < 0.05). In a clinical trial, polymeric nanoparticles in a cosmetic formulation were applied around the eyes of 24 female subjects for 8 weeks. Five skin parameters were significantly improved after the application of the test ampoule. Visual evaluation using the Global Photo Damage Score showed a significant reduction in wrinkles after the application of the test ampoules (p < 0.001). Conclusions: This study outlines the development of stable polymeric nanoparticles containing poorly soluble propolis in a cosmetic formulation, and its efficacy in wrinkle improvement. The developed polymeric nanoparticles were effective for alleviating wrinkles and can be used for pharmaceutical applications that utilize propolis as antiseptic, anti‐inflammatory, antimycotic, antifungal, antibacterial, antiulcer, anticancer, and immunomodulatory agents. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Soybean-derived peptides exert several beneficial effects in various experimental models. However, only a few studies have focused on the radical scavenging and anti-wrinkle effects of soymilk-derived peptides produced via different processes, such as fermentation, enzymatic treatment, and ultrafiltration. Therefore, in this study, we investigated the radical scavenging and antiwrinkle effects of soymilk fractions produced using these processes. We found that 50SFMKUF5, a 5 kDa ultrafiltration fraction fermented with Lacticaseibacillus paracasei MK1 after flavourzyme treatment, exhibited the highest radical scavenging activity using the 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl radical scavenging assay as well as potent anti-wrinkle effects assessed by type 1 procollagen production and tumor necrosis factor-α production in ultraviolet B (UVB)-treated human dermal fibroblasts and HaCaT keratinocytes. To identify potential bioactive peptides, candidate peptides were synthesized, and their anti-wrinkle effects were assessed. APEFLKEAFGVN (APE), palmitoyl-APE, and QIVTVEGGLSVISPK peptides were synthesized and used to treat UVB-irradiated fibroblasts, HaCaT keratinocytes, and α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone-induced B16F1 melanoma cells. Among these peptides, Pal-APE exerted the strongest effect. Our results highlight the potential of soymilk peptides as anti-aging substances.

• A novel supramolecular ionic liquid (P-M IL) was synthesized and fully characterized. • An efficient self-assembled peptide drug delivery system (P-M IL /AKE) was constructed, and enhanced AKE's permeability, and bioactivity. • For the first time, quantum chemical calculations, homology modeling, molecular docking and binding free energy calculations were used to analyze the structural stability of the system, construct the 3D model, explore the interaction mode and reveal the theoretical basis of anti-wrinkle effect. • In vitro penetration experiments showed that P-M IL increased the cumulative absorption of AKE in the skin by more than five times, and demonstrated the biocompatibility and transdermal mechanism. • In vitro, in vivo and clinical anti-wrinkle experiments showed that P-M IL/AKE can significantly increase collagen protein secretion by human fibroblasts, improved skin photoaging and reduce the areas and volume of wrinkle in the eyes and tail. Most peptide drugs have good biological activity and safety, but their stability and permeability are poor, limiting their applications in the field of local drug delivery. Snake venom peptide (AKE) is a tripeptide with good anti-wrinkle effects, but its weak esterophilicity, poor penetration, and low bioavailability limit its full anti-wrinkle potential. To address this issue, a bioactive ionic liquid (P-M IL) was prepared and an efficient self-assembled peptide drug delivery system was constructed through AKE loading, which increased the cumulative absorption of AKE in the skin by more than five-fold, resulting in good biocompatibility. Further, P-M IL/AKE can significantly increase collagen protein secretion by human fibroblasts, improved skin photoaging and reduce the areas and volume of wrinkle in the eye tail lines. In addition, for the first time, quantum chemical calculations, homology modeling, molecular docking and binding free energy calculations were used to analyze the structural stability of the system, construct the 3D model, explore the interaction mode and reveal the theoretical basis of anti-wrinkle effect. Therefore, this supramolecular self-assembled transdermal drug delivery system has potential advantages, providing a novel approach for the highly efficient and non-invasive delivery of peptide drugs. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Rare saponins show numerous significant biological activities, however, there has been no research on using ginseng fruit rare saponins (GFRS) to minimize skin wrinkles. This paper studied the anti-wrinkle effect, related mechanism, material basis of efficacy, and structure-activity relationship of GFRS in vivo and in vitro. The findings demonstrate that GFRS has potent collagenase and elastase inhibition capabilities in addition to superior ultraviolet absorption properties. Secondly, GFRS can strengthen the endogenous antioxidant defense system, thus lessening the UVB-induced ultraviolet damage that L929 cells and zebrafish experience. Matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) studies have shown that GFRS could significantly inhibit the UVB-induced MMP1 and MMP9 proteins production. Finally, the main ginsenoside component in GFRS was identified by LC-MS, and 16 kinds of ginsenoside were analyzed, including rare ginsenoside such as Rg 6 , F4, and R/S-Rg 3 , which may be caused by the transformation of prototype saponins Re and Rd caused by citric acid heat treatment (CAHT). After doing a quantitative HPLC analysis on twelve of them, it was discovered that CAHT could enrich the content of rare saponins in GFS. By evaluating these ginsenoside's anti-wrinkle properties. It is found that the main material basis for GFRS's anti-wrinkle action may be ginsenoside Rg 6 or F4. In summary, GFRS exhibits promising properties as an anti-wrinkle treatment because of its robust anti-oxidation, anti-collagenase, anti-elastase activity, favorable ultraviolet absorption effect, and capacity to regulate MMPs in vivo and in vitro models. [Display omitted] • Ginseng fruit rare saponins (GFRS) were found to have an anti-wrinkle effect for the first time. • GFRS have better UV absorption characteristics and collagenase inhibition. • GFRS can significantly reduce UVB-induced light damage to L929 cells and zebrafish tail fin folds. • The anti-wrinkle effect of GFRS is related to antioxidant and inhibition of matrix metalloproteinase expression. • The anti-wrinkle effect of GFRS comes from highly active rare saponins such as Rg6 and F4. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Tetra‐isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC‐IP), an oil‐soluble vitamin C derivative, is known to be effective for treating photoaging skin caused by oxidative stress. In addition, it is known that morphological changes of the skin occur on the face with aging, and the main cause has been reported to be photoaging. Aims: There have not been any published reports that examined the clinical effects of vitamin C derivatives on periorbital wrinkles. The purpose of this study was to characterize the potential anti‐wrinkle effect of VC‐IP. Methods: A double‐blind, randomized, placebo‐controlled, split face clinical trial was performed on 3 groups of 23 female subjects each who used 1%, 2%, or 3% VC‐IP creams versus a placebo cream to treat their facial wrinkles. VC‐IP cream was applied on the periorbital area on one side of the face of each subject twice a day for 8 weeks and a placebo cream was applied on the other side. Anti‐wrinkle effects were evaluated by visual wrinkle grading and topographic assessments. Results: Periorbital wrinkles treated with VC‐IP twice a day for 8 weeks showed marked or moderate improvements according to visual observations and grading of photographs. Moreover, topographic assessments confirmed the improving effects of VC‐IP, and more interestingly, the appearance of those effects differed depending on the VC‐IP concentration. In addition, sufficient improvement was observed in parameters reported to be associated with dermal structure at lower concentrations of VC‐IP. Conclusions: These results indicate that topical application of VC‐IP cream reduces periorbital wrinkles caused by skin aging. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Clausena harmandiana (Song Fa) leaves are a source of essential oil, in which the dominant compound is trans-anethole and reported the high antioxidant activity but the inhibition of biological enzymes related to anti-wrinkle activity is limit. Objectives: The objectives of this study are to investigate the ability of Song Fa leaf essential oil (SFEO) to inhibit enzymes that cause skin wrinkles and then to develop a bioactive ingredient in a nano-drug delivery system for anti-ageing cosmetic products. Methods: Fresh leaves of Song Fa were distilled and their essential oil obtained. Then, the anti-collagenase, elastase, and hyaluronidase activities were investigated and compared with those of an oleanolic acid standard. Then, SFEO was developed into a microemulsion by using Tween 80 as a surfactant and ethanol as a co-surfactant in a ratio of 1:1. Results: SFEO presented the highest inhibitory activities against hyaluronidase and collagenase (IC50 10.94±1.06 and 19.06±0.06 µg/ml, respectively), which were close to those of oleanolic acid (IC50 7.43±0.58 and 16.75±0.14 µg/ml), followed by elastase (IC50 121.47±2.80 µg/ml). Two microemulsion formulas with different amounts of essential oil, 1% and 5% w/w, were formulated and evaluated for their enzyme inhibitory activities. The results showed that 5% Song Fa microemulsion inhibited collagenase and elastase (35.78% and 99.35%, respectively) by more than 1% Song Fa microemulsion (34.22% and 92.67%, respectively) and only the 5% Song Fa microemulsion formula exhibited anti-hyaluronidase activity. Conclusion: This information will benefit the development of essential-oil-based products and increase the utilization of medicinal plants in the cosmetic industry. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Orostachys japonicus has traditionally been used for antifever, anti-inflammation, and anticancer. O. japonicus has not yet been studied for cosmetic effects. Objectives: In this study, O. japonicus extracts were investigated to verify the possibility of them as anti-aging cosmetic agents. Materials and Methods: O. japonicus were used to prepare experimental extracts using 90% methanol (MeOH) or ethanol (EtOH) as solvent. Safety and efficacy tests applied in this work are as follows: Folin-Denis' method for total phenolic contents, liquid chromatography for component analysis, 3-[4,5-dimethyl thiazol-2-yl]-5-(3-carboxymethoxyphenyl) -2-(4-sulfophenyl)-2H-tetrazolium (MTS) assay for cytotoxicity, 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH), 2,2'-azino-bis (3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS), and ferric reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) assay for antioxidant activity, biochemical inhibition assays of elastase activity, collagenase activity, matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and MMP-3 mRNA expression), and MMP-1 protein production for anti-wrinkle activity, and tyrosinase activity inhibition assay for whitening activity. Results: This research revealed that O. japonicus extracts contained various flavonoids, showed no adverse cytotoxicity up to 300 or 500 μg/mL in HS68 and B16F10, exhibited significant antioxidant activity, exerted remarkable anti-wrinkle activity, and represented useful whitening activity. Conclusion: This study suggested that O. japonicus extracts could be utilized to develop anti-aging cosmetic agents exerting useful whitening activity as well as excellent antioxidant and anti-wrinkle activities. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Low-molecular-weight copolymers of maleic acid and acrylic acid (P(MA–AA)), itaconic acid and acrylic acid (P(IA–AA)), and trans-aconitic acid and acrylic acid (P(TAA–AA)) were prepared and employed as the crosslinking agents for modification of cotton fabrics. The ester crosslinking effect of cellulose by P(MA–AA), P(IA–AA), and P(TAA–AA) was evaluated and compared with that by the most investigated polycarboxylic acids (PCAs), citric acid (CA) and 1,2,3,4-butanetetracarboxylic acid (BTCA). In detail, the Arrhenius activation energy (Ea) of esterification crosslinking reaction of cellulose with different PCAs was obtained by an acid–base titration method. The data displayed the order of Ea for different PCAs as P(TAA–AA) < P(MA–AA) < P(IA–AA) < BTCA < CA, therefore, P(TAA–AA) indicates the highest reactivity with cellulose. The percentage of carboxylic groups in PCAs esterifying with hydroxyl groups on cellulose and the wrinkle recovery angle of fabrics treated in similar conditions were measured to examine the order of Ea. Evidence proved that P(TAA–AA) showed the highest percentage of carboxylic groups participating in esterification with cellulose in the conditions of 180 °C × 2 min, which corresponds to the lowest Ea of P(TAA–AA). Besides, the distribution of PCA molecules inside cellulose fibers was evaluated by Confocal Raman microscopy. Raman depth mapping images of PCA-treated fibers provide an insight into the diffusion behavior of crosslinking agents in cellulose. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

(1) Background: This study aimed to investigate the feasibility of using Maackia amurensis branch extract as a cosmetic ingredient with skin-whitening and antiwrinkle effects. (2) Methods: The skin-whitening effect of M. amurensis branch extract was confirmed by investigating α-melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced melanin synthesis and melanogenic protein expression in B16F1 cells. The antiwrinkle effect of M. amurensis branch extract was verified by assessing matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression and soluble collagen content in CCD-986sk cells. The major compounds in M. amurensis branch extract were identified through isolation and characterization and confirmed by high-performance liquid chromatography analysis. (3) Results: M. amurensis branch extract significantly inhibited α-MSH-induced melanin synthesis by 49%, 42%, and 18% at 50, 37.5, and 25 μg/mL concentrations, respectively, compared with the negative control (NC). M. amurensis branch extract also significantly reduced the expression of the microphthalmia-associated transcription factor, tyrosinase-related protein (TRP)-1, TRP-2, and tyrosinase in B16F1 cells. Furthermore, M. amurensis branch extracts decreased ultraviolet A-induced MMP-1 expression and increased soluble collagen synthesis in CCD-986sk cells. In addition, the major compounds present in M. amurensis branch extract were found to be formononetin, genistein, trans-resveratrol, piceatannol, and tectoridin. (4) Conclusions: M. amurensis branch extract has skin-whitening and antiwrinkle properties. Therefore, it can be used as an ingredient in functional cosmetics with skin-whitening and antiwrinkle effects. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Solar ultraviolet (sUV) radiation remains a major cause of skin aging. Nelumbo nucifera (lotus) is a well-known edible plant widely grown in Asia, including Korea, China, and Japan. The lotus consists of flowers, leaves, stems, and seeds, and all parts reportedly possess nutritional and medical values. Traditionally, lotus flowers, leaves, stems, and seeds have been used as antidiarrheal agents, diuretics, antipyretics, and antimicrobial and antihyperlipidemic agents. In addition, the Nelumbo nucifera lotus embryo has been shown to possess sedative and antipyretic properties and can relieve hemostatic thirst and treat eye diseases. Recently, Nelumbo nucifera lotus flower extract has been widely used in cosmetics due to its ability to reduce wrinkles and its whitening effects. Numerous cosmetics using Nelumbo nucifera lotus embryo extracts are commercially available. However, the active components of Nelumbo nucifera remain elusive. Lotusine is a phytochemical and soluble alkaloid found in lotus embryos. Herein, we examined the anti-wrinkle effect of lotusine using sUV-exposed human keratinocytes. We observed that lotusine reduced sUV-induced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression and modulated transcriptional activities of activator protein (AP)-1 and nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB). sUV-induced AP-1 and NF-κB activity could be activated via multiple signal transduction cascades, including the p38 MAPK, JNK, ERK1/2, and Akt pathways in the skin. Lotusine inhibited the MEK1/2-ERK1/2-p90RSK, MKK3/6-p38, and Akt-p70S6K pathways. Overall, our findings suggest that lotusine has potential benefits related to MMP-1 expression and skin aging following sUV exposure. Hence, the lotus can be developed as a valuable functional food and cosmetic material. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]