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The long-term dynamic evolution of an idealized barrier-marsh-lagoon system experiencing sea-level rise is studied by coupling two existing numerical models. The barrier model accounts for the interaction between shoreface dynamics and overwash flux, which allows the occurrence of barrier drowning. The marsh-lagoon model includes both a backbarrier marsh and an interior marsh, and accounts for the modification of the wave regime associated with changes in lagoon width and depth. Overwash, the key process that connects the barrier shoreface with the marsh-lagoon ecosystems, is formulated to account for the role of the backbarrier marsh. Model results show that a number of factors that are not typically associated with the dynamics of coastal barriers can enhance the rate of overwash-driven landward migration by increasing backbarrier accommodation space. For instance, lagoon deepening could be triggered by marsh edge retreat and consequent export of fine sediment via tidal dispersion, as well as by an expansion of inland marshes and consequent increase in accommodation space to be filled in with sediment. A deeper lagoon results in a larger fraction of sediment overwash being subaqueous, which coupled with a slow shoreface response sending sediment onshore can trigger barrier drowning. We therefore conclude that the supply of fine sediments to the back-barrier and the dynamics of both the interior and backbarrier marsh can be essential for maintaining the barrier system under elevated rates of sea-level rise. Our results highlight the importance of considering barriers and their associated backbarriers as part of an integrated system in which sediment is exchanged.

Marine inundation associated with the 5 to 8 m storm surge of Typhoon Haiyan in 2013 left overwash sediments inland on the coastal plains of the northwestern shores of Leyte Gulf, Philippines. The Haiyan overwash deposit provides a modern sedimentary record of storm surge deposition from a Category 5 landfalling typhoon. We studied overwash sediments at two locations that experienced similar storm surge conditions but represent contrasting sedimentological regimes, namely a siliciclastic coast and a mixed siliciclastic-carbonate coast. The contrasting local geology is significantly reflected in the differences in sediment grain size, composition and sorting at the two sites. The Haiyan overwash sediments are predominantly sand and silt and can be traced up to ~ 1.6 km inland, extending farther beyond the previously reported < 300 m inland limit of sedimentation. Sites with similar geology, topographic relief, and overland flow conditions show significant spatial variability of sediment thickness and inland extent. We infer that other local factors such as small-scale variations in topography and the type of vegetation cover might influence the spatial distribution of overwash sediments. The Haiyan overwash deposits exhibit planar stratification, a coarsening upward sequence, a non-systematic landward fining trend, and a sharp depositional (rarely erosional) basal contact with the underlying substrate. Overall, the Haiyan deposits have sedimentologic and stratigraphic characteristics that show a hybrid signature common to both storm and tsunami deposits. NRF (Natl Research Foundation, S’pore) MOE (Min. of Education, S’pore) Published version

Washover fans typically form due to barrier overwash or breaching and coastal inundation and generally represent geomorphological and depositional evidence of intense storms. Few studies have investigated the chronostratigraphy of washover fans in order to infer magnitude/frequency patterns of extreme-wave events over longer time scales. Here we present new data on the chronostratigraphy of late Holocene washover fans in the Exmouth Gulf (Western Australia) by using ground penetrating radar and unmanned aerial vehicle (UAV) survey techniques, as well as geomorphological, sedimentological and chronological investigations. This study aims to (i) provide a detailed characterization of the washover fans' geomorphology and stratigraphical architecture; (ii) document depositional processes involved in their formation; (iii) establish a chronostratigraphy based on optically stimulated luminescence (OSL); and (iv) understand the significance of the washover fans for recording past tropical cyclone (TC) activity. The fans consist of multiple sequences of sand, shell debris and coral rubble comprising depositional units related to TC-induced inundation. The units are separated by palaeosurfaces with incipient soil formation, formed during periods of reduced depositional activity. In combination with the interpretation of a UAV-based high-resolution digital surface model, multiple phases of reactivation are inferred. OSL results allow the establishment of a local long-term TC record and suggest storm-induced deposition at ∼170, ∼360, ∼850 and ∼1300 years ago. Further units were dated to ∼1950, ∼2300, and ∼2850 years ago. The chronology of TC events is consistent with other work relating TC activity with El Nino Southern Oscillation (ENSO) and sea surface temperature (SST) patterns, corroborating the regional palaeotempestological relevance of this unique geomorphological record.

Retnowati Y, Sembiring L, Moeljopawiro S, Djohan TS, Soetarto ES. 2017. Diversity of antibiotic-producing actinomycetes in mangrove forest of Torosiaje, Gorontalo, Indonesia. Biodiversitas 18: 1453-1461. Actinomycetes for antibiotic production have been studied at various extreme environments. Mangrove forest of Torosiaje in Gorontalo Province, Indonesia has unique geomorphological conditions where the forest is surrounded by karst ecosystem consisting of fringe and overwash types. Therefore, the objective of this study was to analyze the distribution and diversity of antibiotic-producing Actinomycetes in various rhizosphere including different locations and mangrove species. Samples of rhizosphere soil were collected in the depth of 0-10 cm, which was then subjected to detailed physicochemical analysis. Actinomycetes were collected through heating pre-treatment (60oC for 15 min) followed by culturing in the Starch Casein Agar medium supplemented with cycloheximide and nystatin. The screening process of antibiotic-producing Actinomycetes was based on Agar block method against pathogenic microorganisms. Grouping of Actinomycetes was determined by ARDRA fingerprinting analysis. The diversity of Actinomycetes was analyzed based on sequencing of 16S rDNA. The results showed that the distribution of Actinomycetes was found in overwash type, middle zone and upper zone of fringe type including rhizosphere of 7 species of mangrove. The highest population of Actinomycetes was found in rhizosphere of R. mucronata at the overwash type, and the lowest one found in rhizosphere of R. apiculata at the middle zone of fringe type. A total of 77 isolates amongst 167 isolate collection showed antibacterial activities. Forty seven representatives from 77 antibacterial-activities isolates were selected using ARDRA for partial characterization according to their phylogenetic diversity. Sequencing and analysis of 16S rDNA from selectedrepresentative isolates displayed the presence of members associated with Actinomycetes genera such as Streptomyces, Amycolatopsis, Saccharomonospora, and Nocardiopsis. The member of genus Streptomyces such as Streptomyces qinglanensis and Streptomyces champavatii were distributed across locations. Genus Saccharomonospora and Nocardiopsis were mostly found at the overwash type, while Amycolatopsis was found at the upper zone of fringe type.

Backbarrier saltmarshes are considered carbon sinks; however, barrier island transgression and the associated processes of erosion and overwash are typically not included in coastal carbon budgets. Here, we present a carbon-budget model for transgressive barrier islands that includes a dynamic carbon-storage term, driven by backbarrier-marsh width, and a carbon-export term, driven by ocean and backbarrier shoreline erosion. To examine the impacts of storms, human disturbances and the backbarrier setting of a transgressive barrier island on carbon budgets and reservoirs, the model was applied to sites at Core Banks and Onslow Beach, NC, USA. Results show that shoreline erosion and burial of backbarrier marsh from washover deposition and dredge-spoil disposal temporarily transitioned each site into a net exporter (source) of carbon. The magnitude of the carbon reservoir was linked to the backbarrier setting of an island. Carbon reservoirs of study sites separated from the mainland by only backbarrier marsh (no lagoon) decreased for over a decade because carbon storage could not keep pace with erosion. With progressive narrowing of the backbarrier marsh, these barriers will begin to function more persistently as carbon sources until the reservoir is depleted at the point where the barrier welds with the mainland. Undeveloped barrier islands with wide lagoons are carbon sources briefly during erosive periods; however, at century time scales are net carbon importers (sinks) because new marsh habitat can form during barrier rollover. Human development on backbarrier saltmarsh serves to reduce the carbon storage capacity and can hasten the transition of an island from a sink to a source.

A new set of laboratory data is used to investigate the bathymetry change of a steep sand dune exposed to waves and high water levels, and subsequently compared to the results of numerical simulations using XBeach. Bichromatic wave boundary conditions are used to simulate a combined short-wave and long-wave field for two water level elevations corresponding to collision with the dune face, and overwashing of the dune crest. In the collision regime case, episodic slumping due to the undercutting of the dune results in sudden erosional events followed by long periods of wave-driven reshaping at the dune toe. In the overwash regime case, morphological changes are faster and sediment transport rates are higher. The XBeach model was used to simulate wave-driven erosion of the dune at the two water levels observed in the laboratory. The model was not able to precisely recreate the cross-shore spatial variability of significant wave height observed in the experiments, however near-bed wave-orbital and mean current velocities were in good agreement with observations. Following rapid initial adjustment, the model results were in agreement with measured dune morphology at successive times. XBeach was sensitive to several parameters that control the rate of erosion including the critical avalanching slope under water, the threshold water depth and the sediment transport formulation, and performed well after careful selection of the best combination of these parameters. Overall, the model predictions were in better agreement with laboratory observations for dune erosion in the overwash regime case than the collision regime case.

This paper presents a modeling investigation of the hydrodynamic and sediment transport response of Chincoteague Bay (VA/MD, USA) to Hurricane Sandy using the Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere-Wave-Sediment-Transport (COAWST) modeling system. Several simulation scenarios with different combinations of remote and local forces were conducted to identify the dominant physical processes. While 80% of the water level increase in the bay was due to coastal sea level at the peak of the storm, a rich spatial and temporal variability in water surface slope was induced by local winds and waves. Local wind increased vertical mixing, horizontal exchanges, and flushing through the inlets. Remote waves (swell) enhanced southward flow through wave setup gradients between the inlets, and increased locally generated wave heights. Locally generated waves had a negligible effect on water level but reduced the residual flow up to 70% due to enhanced apparent roughness and breaking-induced forces. Locally generated waves dominated bed shear stress and sediment resuspension in the bay. Sediment transport patterns mirrored the interior coastline shape and generated deposition on inundated areas. The bay served as a source of fine sediment to the inner shelf, and the ocean-facing barrier island accumulated sand from landward-directed overwash. Despite the intensity of the storm forcing, the bathymetric changes in the bay were on the order of centimeters. This work demonstrates the spectrum of responses to storm forcing, and highlights the importance of local and remote processes on back-barrier estuarine function.

We assessed habitat characteristics and measured daily survival rate of 72 nests of Charadrius wilsonia (Wilson's Plover) during 2012 and 2013 on South Island and Sand Island on the central coast of South Carolina. At both study areas, nest sites were located at slightly higher elevations (i.e., small platforms of sand) relative to randomly selected nearby unused sites, and nests at each study area also appeared to be situated to enhance crypsis and/or vigilance. Daily survival rate (DSR) of nests ranged from 0.969 to 0.988 among study sites and years, and the probability of nest survival ranged from 0.405 to 0.764. Flooding and predation were the most common causes of nest failure at both sites. At South Island, DSR was most strongly related to maximum tide height, which suggests that flooding and overwash may be common causes of nest loss for Wilson's Plovers at these study sites. The difference in model results between the 2 nearby study sites may be partially due to more-frequent flooding at ...

The diverse lagoons and coastal lakes along the east coast of South Africa occupy incised valleys that were flooded during the rise and subsequent stabilisation of relative sea-level during the Holocene. Sedimentary deposits contained within these waterbodies provide an opportunity to investigate complex hydrological and sedimentological processes, and examine sea-level controls governing system geomorphic evolution. In this paper, we combine diatom and sulfur isotope analyses from two sediment cores extracted from the northern sub-basins of Lake St Lucia, a large shallow estuarine lake that is today largely isolated from direct ocean influence behind a Holocene-Pleistocene barrier complex. Analyses allow the reconstruction of hydrological changes associated with the geomorphic development of the system over the mid-to late Holocene. The sedimentary sequences indicate that St Lucia was a shallow, partially enclosed estuary/embayment dominated by strong tidal flows prior to ∼6200 cal. BP. Infilling was initiated when sea-level rise slowed and stabilised around present day levels, resulting in the accumulation of fine-grained sediment behind an emergent proto-barrier. Diatom assemblages, dominated by marine benthic and epiphytic species, reveal a system structured by marine water influx and characterised by marsh and tidal flat habitats until ∼4550 cal. BP. A shift in the biological community at ∼4550 cal. BP is linked to the development of a back-barrier water body that supported a brackish community. Marine planktonics and enrichments in δ 34 S suggest recurrent, large-scale barrier inundation events during this time, coincident with a mid-Holocene sea-level highstand. Periodic marine incursions associated with episodes of enhanced storminess and overwash remained prevalent until ∼1200 cal. BP, when further barrier construction ultimately isolated the northern basins from the ocean. This study provides the first reconstruction of the palaeohydrological environment at Lake St Lucia and highlights the long-term geomorphic controls that have shaped the recent evolution and natural dynamics of the system. Unlike most coastal lake systems, this system is particularly effective as an archive of geomorphological change. Systems driven by back-barrier modifications, such as Lake St Lucia, highlight how geomorphological changes driven by sediment-supply, climate and sea level can be distributed unevenly over several isolated back-barrier basins.

Barrier island marshes are exceptionally dynamic systems. The objective of this study was to quantify above and belowground net primary production, above and belowground decay, sedimentation rate, and soil carbon pools within four interdunal fresh to brackish marshes on Hog Island, Virginia, USA and to compare carbon input and soil accumulation among marshes with varied susceptibility to overwash. Major carbon fluxes were assessed by the following methods: aboveground net primary production by harvesting biomass throughout the growing season, belowground net primary production with in-growth cores, sedimentation by deposition on sediment plates, and belowground and aboveground decay with litterbags. We expected sites more susceptible to overwash events to have higher carbon inputs and more accumulation in the soil. Sites in the direct overwash path had slower belowground decay rates, and one of these sites also had the slowest aboveground decay rate. The sites most susceptible to overwash had higher ANPP, but did not have higher soil carbon pools. Sites most susceptible to overwash had a higher salinity and bulk density, but did not store more carbon than other sites. As these sites age and the island accretes vertically, it is expected that soil carbon stocks will increase as well.

Quantitative recruitment of ichthyofauna into a South African temporarily open/closed estuary (TOCE) was investigated during three distinct hydrological phases: closed overwash, open outflow and tidal mouth conditions. Maximum recruitment densities occurred during outflow conditions and declined when the system became tidally inundated. Recruitment densities were lowest during overwash events. Selective diel variation was evident, with higher night-time densities for each phase. This study highlights the importance of seasonal timing and duration of open conditions and overwash events for structuring ichthyofaunal community composition of southern African TOCEs. Keywords: breach, ichthyofauna, ICOLL, Mpekweni Estuary, outflow, overwash, species composition, tidal conditions

Overwash and inundation on barrier islands can transport sediment onshore, leading to vertical accretion. These processes could ensure barrier island growth in times of sea-level rise, but wave and current fields during overwash and inundation are not well understood. Field data of water levels, waves, and currents were collected on a barrier island in the Netherlands to investigate the hydrodynamics during island inundation. Observations show that even in shallow water depths (

Chavez Cardenas, X. and Kobayashi, N., 2017. Movement of wooden blocks on ground and pilings in swash zone. In: Martinez, M.L.; Taramelli, A., and Silva, R. (eds.), Coastal Resilience: Exploring the Many Challenges from Different Viewpoints. Journal of Coastal Research, Special Issue No. 77, pp. 7–18. Coconut Creek (Florida), ISSN 0749-0208. Time-varying interactions among storm surge, waves, sand beaches, and wooden houses determine the degree of damage to the houses on low-laying beaches but the complicated damage process is not well understood. An exploratory laboratory experiment consisting of eight tests was conducted in a wave flume with a sand beach to examine the movement of ten wooden blocks (idealized houses) on the foreshore and berm as well as on short and long pilings. The still water level was varied to create accretional and erosional profile changes on the foreshore and berm. The cross-shore wave transformation on the beach and the wave overtopping and overwash of the berm were me...

Barrier islands are at the forefront of storms and sea-level rise. High disturbance regimes and sediment mobility make these systems sensitive and dynamic. Island foredunes are protective structures against storm-induced overwash that are integrally tied to dune grasses via biogeomorphic feedbacks. Shifts in dune grass dominance could influence dune morphology and susceptibility to overwash, altering island stability. In a glasshouse study, two dune grasses, Ammophila breviligulata and Uniola paniculata, were planted together and subjected to a 20 cm burial to quantify morphological and physiological responses. Burial had positive effects on both plants as indicated by increased electron transport rate and total biomass. Ammophila breviligulata performance declined when planted with U. paniculata. Uniola paniculata was not affected when planted with A. breviligulata but did have higher water use efficiency and nitrogen use efficiency. Planted in mixture, differential reallocation of biomass occurred between species potentially altering resource acquisition further. As U. paniculata migrates into A. breviligulata dominated habitat and A. breviligulata performance diminishes, biotic interactions between these and other species may affect dune formation and community structure. Our study emphasizes the importance of studying biotic interactions alongside naturally occurring abiotic drivers.

The reproduction of seventeen laboratory tests for dune erosion by the surf-beat mode of the two-dimensional horizontal (2DH) model XBeach for storm wave conditions showed that the model overestimates the erosion and thus the deposition volumes. This overestimation becomes particularly significant for very large overtopping rates on coastal barriers, which are commonly induced by extreme storm surges. In this paper, the recent model improvements to overcome this problem are first summarised. Moreover, two physical reasons for these overestimations are identified: (i) the wave nonlinearity effect on sediment transport, which is described in XBeach by a calibration factor for the time-averaged flow depending on the wave skewness and asymmetry and (ii) the considerable excess of the actual shear stress required to initiate the sediment particle motion as compared to that predicted by the common Shields curve. To improve the prediction capability of XBeach in terms of erosion and overwash volumes, two new improvements, related to the two aforementioned reasons for the overestimation, are introduced and implemented in the model. The improved XBeach model is then tested for dune erosion, for barrier breaching as well as for a barrier island erosion and overwash under an extreme storm surge event. The results showed a very good prediction capability of the improved model. Particularly, the second model improvement opens the way toward further model improvements to account for spatially varying soil resistance, which is crucial for reliable prediction of a barrier breaching.

Sediment records left by coastal hazards (e.g. tsunami and/or storms) may shed light on the sedimentary and hydrodynamic processes happening during such events. Modern onshore and offshore sediment samples were compared with the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami, three palaeotsunami and a 2007 storm deposit from Phra Thong Island, Thailand, to determine provenance relationships between these coastal overwash deposits. Sedimentological and stratigraphic characteristics are generally inadequate to discriminate tsunami and storm deposits so a statistical approach (including cluster analysis, principal component analysis and discriminant function analysis) was used based on grain size, mineralogy and trace element geochemistry. The mineral content and trace element geochemistry are statistically inadequate to distinguish the provenance of the modern storm and tsunami deposits at this site, but the mean grain size can potentially discriminate these overwash deposits. The 2007 storm surge deposits were most likely sourced from the onshore sediment environment whereas all four tsunami units statistically differ from each other indicating diverse sediment sources. Our statistical analyses suggest that the 2004 tsunami deposit was mainly derived from nearshore marine sediments. The uppermost palaeotsunami deposit was possibly derived from both onshore and nearshore materials while the lower palaeotsunami deposits showed no clear evidence of their sediment sources. Such complexity raises questions about the origin of the sediments in the tsunami and storm deposits and strongly suggests that local context and palaeogeography are important aspects that cannot be ignored in tsunami provenance studies. NRF (Natl Research Foundation, S’pore) MOE (Min. of Education, S’pore) Accepted version

Follet's Island (FI) is a sediment-starved barrier island located on the Upper Texas Coast; a stretch of coastline along the Gulf of Mexico that experiences on average four hurricanes and four tropical storms per decade. During Hurricane Ike, water levels and wave heights at FI exceeded the 100-year and 40-year return values, respectively, leading to significant overtopping and morphology changes of this low-lying barrier island. The physical processes governing the real-time morphodynamic response of the beach and dune system during 96 h of hurricane impact were modeled using XBeach (2D) and CSHORE (1D). Hydrodynamic boundary conditions were obtained from ADCIRC/SWAN model runs validated with measured buoy and wave gauge data while LiDAR surveys provided pre- and post-storm measured topography. XBeach displayed a decent model skill of 0.34 and provided numerical outputs of the entire 2D domain such as topography, suspended sediment load and bed load which was very useful in visualizing erosion and deposition patterns. CSHORE also displayed a decent model skill of 0.33 and was able to accurately predict the post-storm beach slope and shoreline, but was less effective at simulating the foredune morphology. Modeling results show that the complete morphodynamic response of FI to Hurricane Ike was governed by a sequence of impact regimes, including swash, collision, overwash, inundation, and storm surge ebb.

Reconstruction of prehistoric tropical cyclone (TC) activity often relies on the identification of distinctive overwash deposits (tempestites) in coastal lagoon sediments. Similar sediment deposits, however, can result from high-energy events other than TCs. In this study we assessed the utility of using the geochemistry of ostracod valves, specifically their stable oxygen isotope composition (δ18O), as a potential validation variable that could reduce the chances of misidentifying an overwash deposit as having been generated by a TC, when in fact it formed from another high-energy depositional process (type 1 error). We applied this technique to a sediment core recovered from Laguna Alejandro, Dominican Republic, which had already been analyzed for other sedimentary TC proxies. Negative δ18O anomalies identified in the ostracod valve stable isotope record are associated with TC deposits and are most easily explained by large influxes of 18O-depleted meteoric waters typical of intense tropical storms. There is potential for this technique to be used to identify TC landfalls that are not represented by overwash deposits. We, however, propose a more conservative approach and suggest this technique be used to validate the origin of a storm deposit and reduce the odds of a type 1 error.

Gravel barriers provide a natural form of coastal protection and flood defence for many sites around the UK and worldwide. Predicting their vulnerability to different storm impact regimes that cause overtopping and overwash is crucial as these processes can lead to hazardous consequences such as inundation of the back of the barrier or breaching. This paper presents the first field measurements of storm overwash events on a gravel beach (Loe Bar, Cornwall, England). High frequency in-situ observations (2 Hz) were performed using a 2D laser-scanner and allowed a complete characterization of the overwash flows (velocity and depth) and morphological response along a cross-shore section of the barrier. These novel measurements are used to validate the numerical model XBeach-G, to forecast overwash discharge. Several simulations were performed with XBeach-G to investigate the thresholds for the different storm impact regimes, given a variety of water levels and wave heights. Wave period and wave spectral shape are found to significantly affect these thresholds. While short period waves dissipate most of their energy by breaking before reaching the swash zone and produce short runup excursions, long period waves due to their low steepness arrive at the swash zone unbroken with enhanced heights (due to shoaling) thus promoting large runup excursions. When the offshore wave spectrum has a bimodal shape, wave transformation in shallow water causes the long period peak to dominate the swash giving large runup excursions. Long period waves or strongly bimodal waves result in enhanced runup thereby reducing the thresholds for barrier overtopping or overwashing.

Global sea level rise (SLR) will significantly alter coastal landscapes through inundation and erosion of low-lying areas. Animals that display area fidelity and rely on fringing coastal habitats during multiple life stages, such as diamondback terrapins (Malaclemys terrapin Schoepff 1793), are likely to be particularly vulnerable to SLR-induced changes. We used a combination of empirical nest survey data and results from a regional SLR model to explore the long-term availability of known nesting locations and the modeled availability of fringing coastal habitats under multiple SLR scenarios for diamondback terrapin in the MD portion of Chesapeake Bay and the MD coastal bays. All SLR scenarios projected the rapid inundation of historically used nesting locations of diamondback terrapins with 25%–55% loss within the next 10 years and over 80% loss by the end of the century. Model trajectories of habitat losses or gains depended on habitat type and location. A key foraging habitat, brackish marsh, was projected to decline 6%–94%, with projections varying spatially and among scenarios. Despite predicted losses of extant beach habitats, future gains in beach habitat due to erosion and overwash were projected to reach 40%–600%. These results demonstrate the potential vulnerability of diamondback terrapins to SLR in Chesapeake Bay and underscore the possibility of compounding negative effects of SLR on animals whose habitat requirements differ among life stages. More broadly, this study highlights the vulnerability of species dependent on fringing coastal habitats and emphasizes the need for a long-term perspective for coastal development in the face of SLR.

This work analyses laboratory observations of wave energy attenuation in fragmented sea ice cover composed of interacting, colliding floes. The experiment, performed in a large (72 m long) ice tank, includes several groups of tests in which regular, unidirectional, small-amplitude waves of different periods were run through floating ice with different floe sizes. The vertical deflection of the ice was measured at several locations along the tank, and video recording was used to document the overall ice behaviour, including the presence of collisions and overwash of the ice surface. The observational data are analysed in combination with the results of two types of models: a model of wave scattering by a series of floating elastic plates, based on the matched eigenfunction expansion method (MEEM), and a coupled wave–ice model, based on discrete-element model (DEM) of sea ice and a wave model solving the stationary energy transport equation with two source terms, describing dissipation due to ice–water drag and due to overwash. The observed attenuation rates are significantly larger than those predicted by the MEEM model, indicating substantial contribution from dissipative processes. Moreover, the dissipation is frequency dependent, although, as we demonstrate in the example of two alternative theoretical attenuation curves, the quantitative nature of that dependence is difficult to determine and very sensitive to assumptions underlying the analysis. Similarly, more than one combination of the parameters of the coupled DEM–wave model (restitution coefficient, drag coefficient and overwash criteria) produce spatial attenuation patterns in good agreement with observed ones over a range of wave periods and floe sizes, making selection of “optimal” model settings difficult. The results demonstrate that experiments aimed at identifying dissipative processes accompanying wave propagation in sea ice and quantifying the contribution of those processes to the overall attenuation require simultaneous measurements of many processes over possibly large spatial domains.

Overwash hydrodynamic datasets are mixed in quality and scope, being difficult to obtain due to fieldwork experimental limitations. Nevertheless, these measurements are crucial to develop reliable models to predict overwash. Aiming to overcome such limitations, this work presents accurate fieldwork data on overwash hydrodynamics, further exploring it to model overwash on a low-lying barrier island. Fieldwork was undertaken on Barreta Island (Portugal) in December 2013, during neap tides and under energetic conditions, with significant wave height reaching 2.6 m. During approximately 4 h, more than 120 shallow overwash events were measured with a video-camera, a pressure transducer and a current-meter. This high-frequency fieldwork dataset includes runup, overwash number, depth and velocity. Fieldwork data along with information from literature were used to implement XBeach model in non-hydrostatic mode (wave-resolving). The baseline model was tested for six verification cases; and the model was able to predict overwash in five. Based in performance metrics and the verification cases, it was considered that the Barreta baseline overwash model is a reliable tool for the prediction of overwash hydrodynamics. The baseline model was then forced to simulate overwash under different hydrodynamic conditions (waves and lagoon water level) and morpho-sedimentary settings (nearshore topography and beach grain-size), within the characteristic range of values for the study area. According to the results, the order of importance of factors controlling overwash predictability in the study area are: 1st) wave height (more than wave period) can promote overwash 3–4 times more intense than the one recorded during fieldwork; 2nd) nearshore bathymetry, particularly shallow submerged bars, can promote an average decrease of about 30% in overwash; 3rd) grain-size, finer sediment produced an 11% increase in overwash due to reduced infiltration; and 4th) lagoon water level, only negligible differences were evidenced by changes in the lagoon level. This implies that for model predictions to be reliable, accurate wave forecasts are necessary and topo-bathymetric configuration needs to be monitored frequently. This study was supported by RUSH project, PTDC/CTE-GIX/116814/2010 and EVREST project, PTDC/MAR-EST/1031/2014, financed by FCT, Portugal. A. Matias and A. Pacheco were supported by Investigator Programme, IF/00354/2012 and IF/00286/2014, respectively, financed by FCT, Portugal. A.R. Carrasco was supported by SFRH/BPD/88485/2012. Carlos Loureiro is funded by the EU H2020 MSCA research project NEARControl (Grant Agreement No 661342). T. Plomaritis was funded by the EU FP7 research project RISC-KIT (ref. RISC-KIT-GA-2013-603458). R. McCall was funded by the EU FP7 RISC-KIT project and Deltares Strategic Research in the “Hydro-and morphodynamics during extreme events” program (1230002). Umberto Andriolo was supported by the EARTHSYSTEM Doctorate Programme led by Institute Dom Luiz Associate Laboratory at the University of Lisbon (SFRH/BD/52558/2014). info:eu-repo/semantics/publishedVersion

We documented the impacts of an abundant deer population on dune vegetation recovering from severe storm surge on a barrier island through use of permanent plots and a repeated measures analysis. Three years after landfall of the storm, vegetation cover was dominated by American beachgrass, Ammophila breviligulata, though we observed 12 plant species among plots surveyed. We documented significantly greater vegetation cover in fenced than unfenced plots in overwash fans in two consecutive years. The difference in species richness between fenced and unfenced plots was significant, though richness was consistently low (≤4 species per plot) and we did not detect a statistically significant difference between years. Both deer trampling and foraging effects were captured in this study, though separation between these effects was not possible. Because trampling effects are often exacerbated on sandy soils, trampling and foraging effects should be isolated and investigated in future assessments of deer impacts on coastal vegetation. Managing deer to lower abundance may enhance coastal resilience if vegetation is allowed to recover unimpeded by foraging and trampling, though a better understanding of the precise nature of deer impacts on dune vegetation is necessary.

‘Barrier island’ refers to a diverse collection of coastal landforms that often support substantial human populations, critical infrastructures, and ecosystems. Globally, many coastal barriers are experiencing climatically altered environmental forcing coupled with increasing anthropogenic pressures. This paper undertakes high resolution shoreline change analysis to reveal how Blakeney Point, a mixed sandy-gravel barrier located on the UK’s East Coast, has evolved over centennial, decadal and event timescales. We seek to establish the implications of barrier evolution, under contrasting management regimes, for present erosion and flooding hazards. Interrogating a series of alternative shoreline proxies reveals a series of interdependent behaviors. Over the 130-year period of study, Blakeney Point is shown to be rolling landward at a mean rate of 0.60 m a-1. Assuming continued landward retreat over the coming decades, future flood-generating storm events will encounter more landward shoreline positions than today. Superimposed on this trend, we observe the presence of alongshore migrating erosional hotspots which give rise to unpredictable morphologies at any given location on the spit. Finally, we find that instances of barrier setback are driven by individual storm events, which makes barrier retreat both highly variable and discontinuous in time and space. This is illustrated by the presence of overwash, particularly along stretches of the barrier that have experienced a recent shift in management regime towards a non-interventionist approach.

The intensity of Atlantic Ocean hurricanes is predicted to increase, and although disturbance is recognized as a fundamental driver of ecological processes, the benefits of hurricanes to ecological systems are seldom acknowledged. In October 2012, Hurricane Sandy overwashed Fire Island and Westhampton Island, New York. The storm flattened dunes, buried vegetation, and breached the barrier islands in several places. To reduce future overwashing, engineers attempted to stabilize the islands. We studied nest-site selection, suitable habitat, and abundance of a threatened shorebird, the piping plover (Charadrius melodus), before and after Hurricane Sandy. Prior to the hurricane, piping plovers selected nest sites (n = 62) farther from the ocean (x least-cost distance = 82.8 m) and bay (x Euclidean distance = 697.7 m; x least-cost distance = 24,160.6 m) than would be expected if they were selecting nest sites at random. Following the hurricane, piping plovers selected nest sites (n = 45) predominantly in or near storm overwash habitat, which was close to, and had unobstructed walking access to, the ocean (x least-cost distance = 123.4 m) and newly created bayside foraging habitats (x Euclidean distance = 468.0 m; x least-cost distance = 728.9 m). Areas overwashed by the hurricane contained the most suitable piping plover habitat across all new habitat types. Piping plover abundance increased 93% by 2018 from pre-Hurricane Sandy abundances, with most pairs nesting in new habitats. However, only 58% of suitable piping plover habitat was protected from recreational use and few piping plovers used unprotected habitats for nesting. Our results suggest that the ecological benefits of increased storminess may be maximized by coupling coastal stabilization with targeted conservation of storm-created habitats. This project was funded by money provided by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service under the Fire Island to Moriches Inlet Biological Opinion, and by Virginia Tech.

Salt marshes are changing due to natural and anthropogenic stressors such as sea level rise, nutrient enrichment, herbivory, storm surge, and coastal development. This study analyzes salt marsh change at Fire Island National Seashore (FIIS), a nationally protected area, using object-based image analysis (OBIA) to classify a combination of data from Worldview-2 and Worldview-3 satellites, topobathymetric Light Detection and Ranging (LiDAR), and National Agricultural Imagery Program (NAIP) aerial imageries acquired from 1994 to 2017. The salt marsh classification was trained and tested with vegetation plot data. In October 2012, Hurricane Sandy caused extensive overwash and breached a section of the island. This study quantified the continuing effects of the breach on the surrounding salt marsh. The tidal inundation at the time of image acquisition was analyzed using a topobathymetric LiDAR-derived Digital Elevation Model (DEM) to create a bathtub model at the target tidal stage. The study revealed geospatial distribution and rates of change within the salt marsh interior and the salt marsh edge. The Worldview-2/Worldview-3 imagery classification was able to classify the salt marsh environments accurately and achieved an overall accuracy of 92.75%. Following the breach caused by Hurricane Sandy, bayside salt marsh edge was found to be eroding more rapidly (F1, 1597 = 206.06, p < 0.001). However, the interior panne/pool expansion rates were not affected by the breach. The salt marsh pannes and pools were more likely to revegetate if they had a hydrological connection to a mosquito ditch (χ2 = 28.049, p < 0.001). The study confirmed that the NAIP data were adequate for determining rates of salt marsh change with high accuracy. The cost and revisit time of NAIP imagery creates an ideal open data source for high spatial resolution monitoring and change analysis of salt marsh environments.

Coral reef islands are small, low-lying landforms that provide the only habitable land for atoll nations and support a range of endemic flora and fauna. Thus, the vulnerability of these islands to projected sea-level rise is a global concern. The internal structure and modes of island accretion are integral in understanding how islands have formed and subsequently, how they will change in the future. This study employs extensive ground penetrating radar (GPR) imaging on a reef island on Huvadhoo Atoll, Maldives, combined with island coring and stratigraphic analyses, in order to infer styles of island accretion. The GPR images imply central core accretion, with vertical accretion occurring on the initial core and progradation occurring outwards in both directions. However, some transects display progradation occurring predominately in one direction, which may also indicate erosional and rollover or overwash processes that could have led to island migration. Furthermore, using inferences of major radar units and boundary changes in signal reflectors combined with detailed subsurface sedimentology, the subsurface stratigraphy of the island sediments was divided into four discrete facies: velu (lagoon infill), finolhu (initial island core), athiri (beach and paleobeach), and muraka (surface layer) facies. The GPR records on KAN provide visual evidence of the mode of island evolution to complement previous theoretical interpretations, and have demonstrated the capability of GPR to discern sedimentary facies, subsurface features, and changes in sediment characteristics on reef islands. Results from this study show past processes of island building and could infer island response to various stages of sea-level change, which has implications for the stability of reef islands in the face of projected sea-level rise.

Severe tropical cyclone (TC) Debbie made landfall on the northern Queensland coast of Australia on 27 March 2017 after crossing the Great Barrier Reef as a slow-moving Category 4 system. Groups from industry, government and academia collected coastal hazard and impact data before, during and after the event and shared these data to produce a holistic picture of TC Debbie at the coast. Results showed the still water level exceeded the highest astronomical tide by almost a metre. Waves added a further 16 % to water levels along the open coast, and were probably unprecedented for this area since monitoring began. In most places, coastal barriers were not breached and as a result there was net offshore sand transport. If landfall had occurred 2 h earlier with the high tide, widespread inundation and overwash would have ensued. This paper provides a case study of effective cross-sector data sharing in a natural hazard context. It advocates for a shared information platform for coastal extremes in Australia to help improve the understanding and prediction of TC-related coastal hazards in the future.

International audience; The Sillon de Talbert is situated on the Northern coast of Brittany; it is a large 3.5 km-long swash-aligned gravel spit barrier comprising a volume of sediment of 1.23x106 m3. Since 2002 a morphodynamic survey was carried. It is based on annual DEMs and monthly beach profile measurements. Waves and water levels are also surveyed using modelling data and field measurements. The 15-years (2002-2017) sediment budget calculation shows that cross-shore transfers are dominant and represent a total volume of 370,000 m3, while the longshore sediment transfer is estimated at about 50,000 m3. However, considering the volume of sediment eroded from the beachface (as much as –411,000 m3), and the cross-shore and longshore sediment accumulation (reaching +420,000 m3), the global sediment budget is balanced for the whole survey period. The landward displacement of the spit due to rollover processes has increased almost doubled during the last 15 years with rates of retreat of 2 m.yr-1 between 2002 and 2017, vs 1.2 m.yr-1 between 1930 and 2010. Storm events control more than 95% of this retreat due to catastrophic overwash/inundation processes. The spit retreat has led to the opening of a breach in the proximal section at the beginning of March 2018, which has experienced a rapid enlargement (35 vs 15 m) and deepening (3.4 vs 1.25 m) over the last seven months. The morphological evolution of the Sillon de Talbert is driven by anthropogenic forcing (i.e., impact of coastal defence structures, cutting off of longshore sediment transport), and natural forcing such as the depletion of the supply of sediment from the platform, and the increase of extreme storm events over the last few years.; Le Sillon de Talbert est situé sur la côte nord de Bretagne ; c’est une flèche littorale de galets faisant face à la houle, qui s’étend sur 3,5 km et dont le volume de sédiment atteint 1,23 106 m3. Depuis 2002 un suivi morphodynamique a été entrepris.Il est basé sur des levés annuels, permettant de calculer des MNT, et des mesures mensuelles de profils de plage. Le calcul du bilan sédimentaire sur les 15 ans (2002-2017) montre que les transits transversaux sont dominants et représentent un volume total de 370 000 m3, alors que le transit longitudinal est estimé à environ 50 000 m3. Toutefois, considérant le volume de plus de –411 000 m3 de sédiment érodé à la plage avant, et le volume transversal et longitudinal accumulé atteignant +420 000 m3, le bilan sédimentaire global sur l’ensemble de la période de suivi est équilibré. Le déplacement vers la terre lié au phénomène de rollover a doublé durant les quinze dernières années avec un taux de recul de 2 m/an entre 2002 et 2017, contre 1,2 m/an entre 1930 et 2010. Les évènements tempétueux contrôlent plus de 95 % de ce recul lors des processus catastrophiques de submersion/inondation. Le recul de la flèche a conduit, au début du mois de mars 2018, à l’ouverture d’une brèche dans la partie proximale qui s’est rapidement élargie et approfondie, passant respectivement de 15 à 35 m, et de 1,25 à 3,4 m, au cours des 7 derniers mois. L’évolution morphologique du sillon de Talbert est commandée par des forçages anthropiques (i.e., l’impact des ouvrages de défense côtière qui bloquent le transit sédimentaire longitudinal), et des forçages naturels, comme la pénurie de sédiments accumulés sur la plateforme pour l’alimentation de la flèche, ou l’augmentation des évènements extrêmes durant les dernières années.

Barriers and spits connected to fluvial sedimentary sources represent environments which tend to evolve rapidly and experience sudden transformations, mainly driven by changes in sediment supply and path. As a consequence, the variability of facies is significant even within small sedimentary records. The 7 km long barrier-spit system facing the Goro Lagoon, and fed by the mouth of the Po di Goro, is a typical example of an accretionary coastal morphotype, suitable to describe adjacent nearshore depositional environments and their stratigraphic signatures, variability, and relationships. Thirteen short cores of sediment were sampled in order to represent the variable depositional sub-environments from the shoreface (prodelta-delta front) to the back barrier, crossing the active barrier-spit and the ancient spit arms and relative swales. The description of the modern sedimentary records, improved upon using core X-rays, has been coupled with information on the morphological changes which occurred during the period of maximum spit development (1955–2000), based on available aerial photos and a cartographic/topographic dataset. The results obtained allow for the description and interpretation of the depositional environments changing at the human-scale. Sediments of the upper shoreface are quite uniform, composed by evenly laminated sands; the transition between delta front and prodelta at a depth of 6 m is marked by the alternation of sand and mud beds. These reflect the periodic changes in sediment supply by the river, as well as storm events. The most recent spit branch and the relative back barrier-swale environment are the results of the rapid progradation of the spit system, which implies phases of rapid longshore growth, hooked spit development, cannibalization, overwash, and breaching. Morphodynamic changes have resulted in an overlap of short sedimentary records where stratigraphic signatures are linked either to phases of sediment transport and selection by waves and tidal currents (cross-bedding, foreset, and planar laminated sands, shell imbrication, massive beds) or to phases of sedimentary stasis when biological activity is predominant (algal mat and bioturbation). Human signature is also well marked inside the stratigraphic record. Clam harvesting is carried out within the lagoon, causing the physical disturbance and winnowing of the superficial sediment, thus inducing the local formation of graded beds and shell rehash.

This study presents an analytical model aiming to forecast the evolution of barrier beachesaround one hundred years upfront. The general goal is to create a tool for policy supportthat can help a proper coastal management of the particular environment formed bybarrier beaches.The model takes into account storms’ impact and geotechnical settlement, trying toreproduce the complexity of forcings applied to barrier beaches. The model developmentis mainly based on the model developed by Rosatiet al.(Rosati et al. 2009). Erosion andoverwash are the two storms’ impacts considered. The geotechnical settlement is focusedon primary consolidation. The results are discussed in terms of model development, butalso in terms of policy support with a tipping point approach. The model is tested withdata from the Trabucador bar, at the Ebro Delta, in Spain.