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During the spread of COVID-19, many laboratories used the “Formulation 1” proposed by the World Health Organization to prepare hand sanitizers. Taking into consideration its ingredients and the prolonged use of hand sanitizers, “Formulation 1” (P1) was compared with two gel formulations (P2 and P3) prepared with the addition of natural emollients and two different viscosity enhancers to define their chemical–physical stability, biocidal efficacy, and in vivo acceptability and tolerability. P1 resulted in the most efficient biocide but was poorly tolerated by the skin and not acceptable in volunteer hedonic evaluation, especially in terms of irritation and drying effect, with an expectable reduction in the compliance. Moreover, its liquid formulation is unpractical and can cause ethanol evaporation. P2 and P3 proved to be both good products regarding pH and alcohol strength values. However, in terms of viscosity, texture, ease of use, and application, P3 seemed to be a better gel product than P2. Moreover, they were well tolerated by the skin, increasing the hydration of the stratum corneum, due to the addition of Calendula officinalis and Aloe vera. Despite a lower ethanol concentration than P1, P2 and P3 also showed a good biocide efficiency, with better results in P2. In conclusion, these gel formulations proved to be more convenient for long-term use with a good balance between efficacy, safety, and compatibility with the skin.

The influence of a topically applied formulation containing components of natural moisturizing factor (NMF) on barrier-related parameters of the stratum corneum (SC) was investigated in vivo using confocal Raman microspectroscopy in a randomized, placebo-controlled double-blind study on 12 volunteers for 14 days. This method allowed for the elucidation of subtle differences between the verum and the placebo even though the components of the verum naturally occur in the SC. This differentiation is not possible non-invasively by conventional methods. In this study, we found that the applied verum and placebo formulations disrupted the equilibrium of water, NMF and lipids in the SC. The adverse effects of the formulation could be mitigated by incorporating it into a simplified supplementation of NMF molecules. As a long-term effect, the amount of strongly bound water increases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) and the amount of weakly bound water decreases at 30–40% SC depth (p < 0.05) for the verum. This supplement was also unexpectedly able to prevent intercellular lipids (ICL) disorganization in selected depths. In the long term, the verum treatment limited the lateral disorganization of the ICL to the upper 20% SC depth. Further research is required to elucidate the interplay of these factors in the SC, to better understand their contribution to the equilibrium and barrier function of the skin. This understanding of the interaction of these naturally occurring components could help in the future to develop and optimize topical treatments for diseases like psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, ichthyosis where the skin barrier is disrupted.

Dermal water content is an important biophysical parameter in preserving skin integrity and preventing skin damage. Traditional electrical-based and open-chamber evaporimeters have several well-known limitations. In particular, such devices are costly, sizeable, and only provide arbitrary outputs. They also do not permit continuous and non-invasive monitoring of dermal water content, which can be beneficial for various consumer, clinical, and cosmetic purposes. We report here on the design and development of a digital multi-wavelength optical sensor that performs continuous and non-invasive measurement of dermal water content. In silico investigation on porcine skin was carried out using the Monte Carlo modeling strategy to evaluate the feasibility and characterize the sensor. Subsequently, an in vitro experiment was carried out to evaluate the performance of the sensor and benchmark its accuracy against a high-end, broad band spectrophotometer. Reference measurements were made against gravimetric analysis. The results demonstrate that the developed sensor can deliver accurate, continuous, and non-invasive measurement of skin hydration through measurement of dermal water content. Remarkably, the novel design of the sensor exceeded the performance of the high-end spectrophotometer due to the important denoising effects of temporal averaging. The authors believe, in addition to wellbeing and skin health monitoring, the designed sensor can particularly facilitate disease management in patients presenting diabetes mellitus, hypothyroidism, malnutrition, and atopic dermatitis.

• L-AHG from red algae upregulates hyaluronan synthase in human keratinocytes. • L-AHG activates EGFR-mediated ERK, PI3K/Akt and STAT3 signaling pathways. • L-AHG activates AMPKα signaling pathway which regulate HAS2 expression. • L-AHG may serve as a cosmetic additive to moisturize skin and maintain hydration. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is an important factor in skin hydration maintenance. In mammalian keratinocytes, hyaluronan synthase 2 (HAS2) is a critical enzyme in HA production. Therefore, the promotion of HAS2 expression in keratinocytes may be a strategy for maintaining skin moisture. The aim was to determine the skin hydration effect and regulatory mechanisms of 3,6-anhydro-L-galactose (L-AHG), a main component of red macroalgal carbohydrates in human keratinocytes. L-AHG was applied to an immortalized human epidermal keratinocyte cell line (HaCaT cells). HA production, HAS2 protein and mRNA levels, and the activation of the signaling pathways involved in HAS2 expression were measured. HA levels were also evaluated for three dimensional (3D) reconstructed human skin. Our results suggest that L-AHG upregulates HA production and may enhance HAS2 expression by activating EGFR-mediated ERK, PI3K/Akt, and STAT3 signaling pathways. We confirmed that L-AHG activated the AMPKα signaling pathway which in turn could regulate HAS2 expression in HaCaT cells. The effects of L-AHG on HA production were observed in the 3D reconstructed human skin model. Our results suggest that L-AHG may enhance skin moisture retention by increasing HA synthesis in human epidermal keratinocytes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: To explore the relationship between skin surface hydration and Trans‐Epidermal Water Loss (TEWL) when simultaneously measured. Methods: Six circular skin areas of the forearms (3 per forearm, 3 cm in diameter) of 12 Caucasian women were used as models. 4 prototypes of formulae of different compositions containing glycerol at different concentrations 7%, 10% and 40% were used as models of hydrating products. One formula (glycerol‐free) was used as control vehicle. Standardized applications of formulae (2 mg/cm2) were performed on 5 skin sites chosen at random, the other being left as bare/control. A recently marketed instrumental device that records the skin surface hydration and TEWL on a small skin area in a simultaneous manner was used. Measurements were carried out at T0 (pre‐application), at 1 h (T1) and 5 h (T5) post applications on two close sites within the 6 defined areas of both forearms. Results: The new instrumental device allowed to clearly differentiate the 5 formulae (i.e. 7% vs. 10%) with regard the dose effect brought by glycerol (7%, 10%, 40%) and to record their lingering effects at T1 and T5. Both parameters were found significantly and negatively correlated, i.e. the higher the skin hydration, the lower the TEWL. The 40% concentration of glycerol, that leads to the highest skin hydration, brings a drop in the TEWL by about a two‐fold factor. Skin hydration of bare skin and control/vehicle sites showed minor and non‐significant changes along 5 h. Instead, the control/ vehicle slowed down the TEWL to a slight extent. Conclusion: The use of this new instrumental device shed a new light on the mutual and inverse relationships between skin hydration and TEWL. Results suggest that, at high concentration, glycerol leads to largely increase the water content of both epidermal and dermal compartments, possibly leading to structural changes in the skin relief. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Topical hyaluronic acid (HA) has shown effectiveness in maintaining skin hydration. Topical creams containing HA are widely available, but their efficacy is limited by their lack of penetration into the skin due to the large molecule size of HA, the result of being formulated into a cream base. Objective: In this three-part study (in vitro, ex vivo, and in vivo), molecule sizes, penetration levels, and antiaging qualities of a topical HA facial cream that was formulated using a new technology that micronizes HA molecules (m-HA) were assessed. Methods and Results: Particle sizes of m-HA were evaluated using electron microscopy, which showed varying sizes, the smallest of which was 100nm in diameter. The antioxidation capabilities of m-HA were measured using electron spin resonance and were found to be higher than original HA. Skin penetration of the m-HA formulation was evaluated via immunohistochemical staining of porcine skin samples, which demonstrated penetration of the formulation into the stratum corneum and the deep epidermal layers toward the dermis. Antiaging qualities of the m-HA formulation were assessed in an open-label clinical study that included 36 healthy adult women. Skin parameters were measured objectively (e.g., Corneometer, Cutometer) and subjectively via patient questionnaire, results of which indicated significant improvements in facial skin hydration, elasticity, and wrinkle depth. Conclusion: The topical HA facial cream with m-HA technology demonstrated penetration into the epidermal skin layer, and, to our knowledge, our formulation is the first HA facial cream to achieve this. Clinical application of the facial cream demonstrated objective and subjective improvements in facial skin quality of healthy adult female subjects. Our results support the use of this new HA facial cream with m-HA technology as an effective antiaging topical therapy. Larger randomized, controlled studies are needed to confirm our findings. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Skin hydration is essential for maintaining stratum corneum (SC) flexibility and facilitating maturation events. Moisturizers contain multiple ingredients to maintain and improve skin hydration although a complete understanding of hydration mechanisms is lacking. The ability to differentiate the source of the hydration (water from the environment or deeper skin regions) upon application of product will aid in designing more efficacious formulations. Materials and Methods: Novel confocal Raman microscopy (CRM) experiments allow us to investigate mechanisms and levels of hydration in the SC. Using deuterium oxide (D2O) as a probe permits the differentiation of endogenous water (H2O) from exogenous D2O. Following topical application of D2O, we first compare in vivo skin depth profiles with those obtained using ex vivo skin. Additional ex vivo experiments are conducted to quantify the kinetics of D2O diffusion in the epidermis by introducing D2O under the dermis. Results: Relative D2O depth profiles from in vivo and ex vivo measurements compare well considering procedural and instrumental differences. Additional in vivo experiments where D2O was applied following topical glycerin application increased the longevity of D2O in the SC. Reproducible rates of D2O diffusion as a function of depth have been established for experiments where D2O is introduced under ex vivo skin. Conclusion: Unique information regarding hydration mechanisms are obtained from CRM experiments using D2O as a probe. The source and relative rates of hydration can be delineated using ex vivo skin with D2O underneath. One can envision comparing these depth‐dependent rates in the presence and absence of topically applied hydrating agents to obtain mechanistic information. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Conventionally, hydration and sebum content of the skin, especially which on the face, have been measured using commercial instruments that compute variation in resistance through probes. These probes must be attached to the skin tissue, which significantly increases the probability of pollution or infection during measurement. Therefore, in this paper, we propose a noncontact method that employs optical reflected skin images obtained by irradiating the skin with green and near-infrared light with wavelengths of 528 nm and 770 nm, respectively, to evaluate skin hydration and sebum content. The difference in the skin sebum content of the forehead between the evaluated value from the reflected image and the measured value using the contact method was less than 3%. In addition, we built a sebum distribution map, and the difference in sebum content determined from the skin images of two tested subjects was evident. The proposed method offers the advantages of a noncontact measurement process and large measurement area alongside two-dimensional distribution information. Moreover, the results can serve as a reference for determining skin quality, including sebum content and hydration retention, in the medical and beauty industries. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

• Nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) and nanoemulsions (NE) are safe for skin use. • Vitamin E-loaded NLC and NE demonstrate in vivo hydration potential. • Hydrogels containing NLC exhibited good skin occlusive properties. • Hydrogels containing NE performed a fast skin hydration effect. Lipid-based nanosystems, such as nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC) and nanoemulsions (NE) have been described as promising alternatives to conventional formulations for increase skin hydration. Besides, these systems have been used as efficient vehicles for lipophilic molecules that improve skin properties (e.g. vitamin E). In this study, we performed comparative investigations between hydrogels formulations containing vitamin E-loaded NLC (HG-NLC VE) and vitamin E-loaded nanoemulsion (HG-NE VE). The experiments started with particle size measurements, which showed no significant differences between nanoparticles/nanodroplets sizes after incorporation in the hydrogel net (386 nm vs. 397 nm for HG-NLC VE and 402 nm vs. 514 nm for HG-NE VE). Afterwards, in vitro biocompatibility studies in human keratinocytes were carried out, being observed that the lipid-based nanosystems were more cytotoxic for the cells before incorporation in the hydrogel. Finally, the formulations hydration potential and sensory attributes for skin application were evaluated by in vitro occlusion tests and in vivo human experiments. The results showed that the HG-NLC VE exhibited the best occlusive properties, whereas the HG-NE VE performed a faster skin hydration effect. Furthermore, the latter was selected as the most attractive for skin application, although the HG-NLC VE was described as more suitable to obtain a long-lasting effect. This study demonstrated the in vitro and in vivo safety and hydration potential of hydrogels containing vitamin E-loaded lipid-based nanosystems. These results establish a basis to assess the cutaneous use of these systems, despite more in vivo experiments, for longer periods and in more volunteers, are required before commercialization. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Bed bath in daily nursing care is crucial for cleaning and moisturizing patients' skin. The purpose of this study was to compare the effectiveness of cleaning and level of comfort of towel and disposable baths. The 2 methods were evaluated based on measurements of the transition of resident skin bacteria, stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss, and perceived relaxation levels. Twenty-six healthy women aged 65-90 years participated in this study and received disposable and towel baths. We measured 4 indicators before and after bathing. The participants' relaxation levels were measured by the Japanese adult version of the Profile of Mood States Second Edition short form. Both disposable and towel baths significantly decreased resident skin bacteria. Disposable bath also significantly reduced Staphylococcus aureus and effectively maintained the water content of the stratum corneum. Furthermore, disposable bath was as effective as towel bath at contributing to participants' relaxation levels. This study suggested that using a disposable bath for daily cleaning of patients' skin is more comfortable and effective than using a towel bath. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: The purpose of this study was to evaluate the efficacy and safety of a multicomponent nutraceutical (MCN) on facial skin. Methods: A randomized, placebo-controlled, single-blind trial was conducted involving two groups of female subjects affected by facial skin photoaging. For two months, volunteers took a daily dose of MCN containing 200mg of hyaluronic acid, 500mg of L-carnosine, and 400mg of methylsulfonylmethane, or a placebo. At Day 0 (T0) and Day 60 (T60), face skin hydration, elasticity, and sebometry were measured with an instrumental skin tester, and digital images of facial wrinkles were scored. A subject-based quali-/ quantitative assessment evaluating satisfaction/ quality of life was performed at T60. Results: The MCN and placebo groups each included 25 volunteers (mean ages: 49.3 and 47.8 years, respectively). After 60 days of MCN intake, glabella skin hydration and elasticity improved by 15.2 percent and 22.6 percent, respectively (p=0.03; p=0.004), glabella sebaceous secretion decreased by 24.2 percent (p=0.01), skin hydration and elasticity of the periocular area increased by 12.6 percent and 15.9 percent, respectively, and skin hydration and elasticity of the oral commissural area increased by 17.6 percent and 16 percent, respectively (p<0.001). No significant variation occurred in the placebo group. Wrinkle depth improved slightly in the MCN group (p=0.043 in the periocular area) but not in the placebo group. A slight improvement in joint pain and mucosae/ hair appearance was reported in the questionnaire in the MCN group only. Conclusions: Our results suggest that MCN is safe and effective for facial skin aesthetics and well-being. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Madecassoside is a major pentacyclic triterpene saponin from Centella asiatica with multiple pharmaceutical activities. In this study, we focused on its Propionibacterium acnes related anti-inflammation and skin hydration activities, both of which play important roles in skin homeostasis and barrier function. Madecassoside significantly inhibited the pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-1β, TLR2 and nuclear translocation of NF-κB in P. acnes stimulated THP-1 human monocytic cells. In addition, madecasssoside exhibited significant effects on enhancement of skin hydration through increasing the key moisturizing contributors of aquaporin-3, loricrin and involucrin in HaCaT keratinocytes as well as hyaluronan (HA) secretion in human dermal fibroblasts. The upregulation of HA synthases (HAS1, HAS2, HAS3) and inhibition to ROS formation accounted for the increment of HA content. Together, the in vitro study implied the potential medical and cosmetic application of madecassoside in skin protection. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Featured Application: Development of topical formulations based on lipid nanoparticles for the treatment of skin aging and diseases involving cutaneous dryness and scaling such as atopic and exfoliative dermatitis and psoriasis. Idebenone (IDE) is a strong antioxidant that has been proposed for the treatment of skin disorders, including skin ageing. Unfavorable physico-chemical properties make IDE a poor skin permeant where effectiveness could be improved by its loading into suitable delivery systems such as solid lipid nanoparticles (SLN) and nanostructured lipid carriers (NLC). In this work, we designed novel IDE-loaded NLC containing tocopheryl acetate (VitE) as a liquid component to obtain a synergic effect between IDE and VitE. The resulting NLC showed small particle sizes (24–42 nm), low polydispersity indices (<0.300), good stability, and were assessed for their in vitro antioxidant activity and in vivo topical effects. IDE-loaded SLN and NLC showed a high antioxidant activity in in vitro assays (DPPH and reducing power method) and provided a similar and significant protection from oxidative stress of fibroblast cells, HS-68, exposed to UV light. After a two-week topical treatment of human volunteers with gels containing IDE-loaded SLN or NLC, a similar increase in skin hydration was observed, while IDE NLC reduced skin pigmentation to a greater extent than IDE SLN. These results suggest that co-loading IDE and VitE into NLC could be a promising strategy to obtain topical formulations with improved photo-protection. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Summary: Background: Panthenol is an active substance used in dermatology to protect the health of the skin, to treat defects in the morphology of the stratum corneum. In cosmetology, hydrating, softening, and barrier function of panthenol are utilized. Detailed studies evaluating the efficacy of panthenol in cosmetic and pharmaceutical semisolid formulations and establishing its optimum concentration are needed. Objectives: To investigate whether an addition of 5‐13 wt% panthenol in o/w and w/o emulsions increases hydration and supports the barrier properties of the skin. Rheological properties and sensory analysis of prepared formulations are supplemented. Methods: Noninvasive instrumental methods in vivo were used. The hydration and barrier effect of semisolid formulations on the skin were observed for 48 hour; testing was conducted on 40 women. The effect was compared with formulations without any content of panthenol. The rheological and organoleptic properties of the formulations were evaluated. Results: After applying either form of the formulations containing 7‐11 wt% of panthenol hydration of the skin increased, transepidermal water loss decreased. pH of the skin shifted toward neutral after application of tested formulations. The rheological properties of the formulations were influenced by the type of vehicle, the amount of panthenol, and temperature. Sensory evaluation of both semisolid forms revealed statistically significant differences in o/w formulations with regard to spreadability. Conclusions: The presence of panthenol in an o/w and w/o semisolid formulations significantly enhances skin barrier repair and hydration of the stratum corneum. Better vehicle for the active substance as regards hydration proved o/w formulations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The hydration state of human skin depends on good functionality of the epidermal selective barrier which is dictated by the stratum corneum. The link between the hydration state of skin and the functional effects of formulations and natural systems, such as thermal muds, has been demonstrated by several studies. Thermal muds have hydration properties owed to their water contents being up to 38% and due to the presence of clay minerals. The Tenskinmeter Versus Skin (TVS) mud index has been developed following the concept of the structure-surface approach, based on the determination of the contact angle of Fomblin HC/25® Perfluoropolyether (PFPE) on mud surfaces. The TVS mud index is a very sensitive "surface tensiometry marker" capable of describing surface free energy variations of peloids during the maturation process. The level of the TVS mud index is based on the hydrophobic, lipophobic and self-repellent characteristics of Fomblin HC/25® Perfluoropolyether (PFPE). Owed to the repulsive forces generated at the interface between the substrate and Fomblin HC/25® Perfluoropolyether (PFPE), the TVS mud index has been used to define the quality, conformity, and the degree of maturation of thermal muds. The TVS mud index has also been demonstrated to evaluate the functional and therapeutic efficacy of a peloid. Considering the importance of pelotherapy in the modification of the selective permeability of skin, and consequently its influence on the hydration state of stratum corneum and on the permeation of therapeutic substances, this work describes the development of a surface tensiometry model for the assessment and optimisation of Japanese Biofango ® mud therapy. This has been done through the evaluation of skin hydration states before and after treatment with Biofango®, using water as a biocompatible test liquid, and determining the surface free energy of the used mud by implementing the Fomblin HC/25® Perfluoropolyether (PFPE). [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The purpose of this study was to investigate the friction characteristics of different fabrics used in personal protective equipment worn during competition and matches. During vigorous taekwondo activity, sweat, movement, and body collisions may cause personal protective equipment to slide from its original position and accordingly fail to protect the athletes effectively. Therefore, a thorough study investigating the friction characteristics among different fabrics used in personal protective equipment and its effect on the skin is needed. This study is intended to be helpful for the athletes in the selection of appropriate personal protective equipment fabrics. Universal Nano + Micro + Macro Materials Tester was used in friction tests between six different personal protective equipment fabrics and the dorsum forearm skin to obtain the coefficients of kinetic friction and static friction. The results indicated that PVC faux leather showed better anti-skid performance under dry conditions. Under wet conditions, however, the friction coefficient of PVC faux leather decreased significantly due to lubrication, and thus lowered the anti-skid performance. In addition, the friction coefficient of fabrics with better water absorption or drainage capacity showed greater adhesion with the increasing of skin hydration. In particular, 100% polyester weft-knitted fabric showed better anti-skid performance under wet conditions. The result of this study provides a good reference in the selection and design of Taekwondo personal protective equipment for athletes, coaches, and manufacturers. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Psoriasis is a common chronic inflammatory disease. Psoriasis lesions have water-holding and show increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Patients experience pain, discomfort, and skin dryness or dehydration. Skin moisturizing is a major component of treatment for these patients to maintain the smoothness of the skin and to break the dry-skin cycle.Objective: To compare the skin moisturizing efficacy of liquid paraffin (LP) with cream base (CB) on TEWL and skin hydration on normal and psoriasis lesions of psoriasis patients.Materials and Methods: The present study was conducted among 100 participants with Psoriasis Area and Severity Index (PASI) score less than 10. Participants aged 18 years or older who visited the Outpatient Department of Institute of Dermatology were randomly selected to have the substances applied on normal skin and psoriasis lesions twice daily with LP on one side and CB on the other side. TEWL and skin hydration were measured at baseline and after application at the end of the fourth week.Results: There were 48 females and 52 males, with the mean (SD) age of 45 (13) years and average duration of psoriasis of 12 years. For normal skin, TEWL at the end of 4-week treatment period significantly decreased in areas applied with LP compared to CB (median change from baseline -0.30 g/m²/hour versus 0.30 g/m²/hour, respectively, p=0.01). For psoriasis lesions, change of TEWL was not different between the two agents (p=0.22). Regarding skin hydration after four weeks of treatment, there was no statistically significant difference between LP and CB in normal skin (change from baseline of 5.04 AU for LP and 4.20 AU for CB). For psoriasis lesions, skin hydration increased more significant with CB than with LP (change from baseline 4.00 AU for CB versus 2.65 AU for LP, p<0.01).Conclusion: For the patients with plaque type psoriasis, LP reduced TEWL more than CB in normal skin, but CB increased skin hydration more than LP in psoriasis lesions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose: Type 2 diabetes mellitus (DM) induces various dermatological conditions that can affect patient quality of life, including increased susceptibility to skin infections and dry skin. While the mechanisms that underlie the causes of dry skin in type 1 DM have been widely studied, how type 2 DM elicits similar effects is unclear. The purpose of this study was therefore to evaluate skin barrier and hydration function using a KK-Ay/TaJcl mouse model of type 2 DM. Materials and methods: KK-Ay/TaJcl and control mice were housed separately for 4 weeks and then body weight, water intake, urine production, and blood glucose levels were measured. Skin barrier function was estimated by assessing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and hydration levels of the stratum corneum. The expression levels of various skin biochemical factors were also examined by western blot, including type 1 collagen, mast cell tryptase, hyaluronic acid binding protein (HABP), and fibroblast protein S100A4. Results: Compared to control mice, there was a marked increase in body weight, water intake, urine production, and blood glucose levels in the KK-Ay/TaJcl mice over the length of the experiment. Hydration levels in the stratum corneum were lower in KK-Ay/TaJcl mice compared to control mice, although TEWL was not significantly different between groups. We also found that hyaluronic acid binding protein expression was higher in KK-Ay/TaJcl mice, although other biochemical factors were the same. Conclusions: These findings suggest that hyaluronic acid associates with the dry skin caused by type 2 DM. This contributes to understanding this phenomenon and may lead to better treatment options for patients in the future. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

To meet the needs of dehydrated skin, molecules with a high hygroscopic potential are necessary to hydrate it effectively and durably. In this context, we were interested in pectins, and more precisely in apiogalacturonans (AGA), a singular one that is currently only found in a few species of aquatic plants. As key structures in water regulation of these aquatic plants and thanks to their molecular composition and conformations, we hypothesized that they could have beneficial role for skin hydration. Spirodela polyrhiza is a duckweed known to be naturally rich in AGA. The aim of this study was to investigate the hygroscopic potential of AGA. Firstly, AGA models were built based on structural information obtained from previous experimental studies. Molecular dynamics (MD) simulations were performed, and the hygroscopic potential was predicted in silico by analyzing the frequency of interaction of water molecules with each AGA residue. Quantification of interactions identified the presence of 23 water molecules on average in contact with each residue of AGA. Secondly, the hygroscopic properties were investigated directly in vivo. Indeed, the water capture in the skin was measured in vivo by Raman microspectroscopy thanks to the deuterated water (D 2 0) tracking. Investigations revealed that AGA significantly capture and retain more water in the epidermis and deeper than a placebo control. Not only do these original natural molecules interact with water molecules, but they capture and retain them efficiently in the skin. [Display omitted] • Apiogalacturonans display high hygroscopic potential predicted by molecular modeling. • Apiogalacturonans capture and retain more cutaneous water than other polysaccharides. • Apiogalacturonans behave like humectants with substantial hygroscopic properties. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Placenta extract has been used as a component of ointments for skin dryness and beautification. However, little is known about the effect of oral intake of placenta extract on skin condition. The current study aimed to clinically explore the effect of oral intake of porcine placenta extract on human skin quality. A randomized controlled double-blind trial was performed on healthy women aged 40–59 years (n = 20), who were randomly assigned to receive either placebo or 200 mg of porcine placenta extract once daily for 4 weeks from 28 January 2019 to 25 February 2019. Skin quality parameters and the Simplified Menopausal Index (SMI) were assessed at baseline and after 4 weeks. After 4 weeks, three parameters of skin quality were significantly improved in the porcine placenta group compared with the placebo group. These results suggest that porcine placenta extract can be used as a health food ingredient to maintain humans’ skin condition in the dry winter season.

Previously, we reported that the hot water extract of Hydrangea serrata leaves (WHS) and its active component, hydrangenol, possess in vitro and in vivo effects on skin wrinkles and moisturization. We conducted a randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial to clinically evaluate the effect of WHS on human skin. Participants (n = 151) were randomly assigned to receive either WHS 300 mg, WHS 600 mg, or placebo, once daily for 12 weeks. Skin wrinkle, hydration, elasticity, texture, and roughness parameters were assessed at baseline and after 4, 8, and 12 weeks. Compared to the placebo, skin wrinkles were significantly reduced in both WHS groups after 8 and 12 weeks. In both WHS groups, five parameters (R1–R5) of skin wrinkles significantly improved and skin hydration was significantly enhanced when compared to the placebo group after 12 weeks. Compared with the placebo, three parameters of skin elasticity, including overall elasticity (R2), net elasticity (R5), and ratio of elastic recovery to total deformation (R7), improved after 12 weeks of oral WHS (600 mg) administration. Changes in skin texture and roughness were significantly reduced in both WHS groups. No WHS-related adverse reactions were reported. Hence, WHS could be used as a health supplement for skin anti-aging.

BACKGROUND Dry skin is a major skin health problem in elderly. Green tea, which has an antioxidant effect, has recently been used as an active ingredient in moisturizing creams; yet the effect has not been well studied. This study compares the skin hydration effect of green tea and vitamin E moisturizer among elderly. METHODS This quasi-experimental study involved 60 elderly living in Tresna Werda Budi Mulia 4 Social Institution, Jakarta. Using the Runve HL 611 skin analyzer, skin capacitance was measured prior to experiment and every following week during the 5-week application of green tea and vitamin E skin moisturizer on both forearms. The consecutive measurement data was analyzed using Generalized Estimating Equation to compare the relative changes in skin hydration between the two moisturizer groups over 5 weeks of intervention. RESULTS The green tea moisturizer showed more significant increases in skin hydration level than the vitamin E moisturizer at all measurement sites on right arm and proximal left arm (p= 0.021), and medial and distal left arm (p= 0.034). Skin hydration levels significantly changed over time at proximal (p=0.021), medial (p=0.006) and distal (p=0.006) right arm, and medial left arm (p=0.021). A parallel trend of skin hydration improvements for both moisturizer groups indicated no correlation between the moisturizer type and the duration of usage (p >0.05) in all measurement locations. No side effects were observed during application period in both groups. CONCLUSION Routine use of moisturizer containing green tea may improve skin hydration in elderly.

The presence of penetrated oils in the stratum corneum (SC), oil‐induced occlusion of the SC and formation of occluding homogeneous film on the skin surface are discussed in relation to their influence on results of water profile calculations using conventional and newly proposed extended methods. It is shown that the conventional method does not determine the water profiles in treated skin correctly due to the superposition of Raman bands of SC's proteins and penetrated and remnant oils. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Aims: Oriental herbs have been used as medicines in the folk remedy for their numerous phytochemicals and bioactivities. In this study, we have selected five Korean traditional medical herbs and applied bio conversion extraction technology, named it as Bioconversion Oji complex, to identify phytochemicals and evaluate skin related efficacies., Material and Methods: The process of two-step bio conversion was sequentially conducted. The first step of fermentation was to produce biosurfactants using macadamia seed oil with Candida bombicola, and then five natural plants were added to carry out the main fermentation. To evaluate skin improvement efficacy of Bioconversion Oji complex, in vitro and in vivo studies were conducted. We studied HaCaT cells cultured to assess viability, skin anti-inflammatory, moisturizing and barrier improvement-related mRNA expression. For efficacy study, 21 participants were tested evaluating anti-inflammatory, skin moisturizing and skin barrier improving effects of Bioconversion Oji complex compared to Water extraction of Oji (placebo) for the 4 weeks test period., Results: The application of bioconversion technology highly increased the content of amino acids and lipids within Bioconversion Oji complex, and 23 flavonoids were also identified. Bioconversion Oji complex was found to be non-toxic and showed significant effects in all parameters tested, including anti-inflammation, skin moisture, and skin barrier in both in vitro and in clinical studies., Conclusions: Bioconversion Oji complex has demonstrated skin-friendly properties with significant beneficial effects on anti-inflammatory, skin hydration and barrier function properties. This study provides evidence for the use of Bioconversion Oji complex as an active ingredient in cosmetics and skincare products., (© 2023 The Authors. Skin Research and Technology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Due to the growing popularity of herbal extract-loaded hydrogels, this study assessed the biological activity of extracts and hydrogels containing three types (water (WE), water-ethanol (EE) and water-glycerin (GE)) of Cornus mas L. (dogwood) extracts. The content of biologically active compounds in the extracts was assessed using the UPLC-DAD-MS technique. Antioxidant properties were assessed by using DPPH and ABTS radicals and measuring the intracellular level of reactive oxygen species. Alamar Blue and Neutral Red tests were used to measure the cytotoxicity of the tested samples on skin cells-fibroblasts and keratinocytes. Cell migration and the anti-aging activity of the tested extracts and hydrogels were assessed. Transepidermal water loss and skin hydration after applying the hydrogels to the skin were also determined. A chromatographic analysis revealed that the extracts contained polyphenols, including gallic, caftaric, protocatechuic, chlorogenic, ellagic and p-coumaroylquinic acids, as well as iridoids, with loganic acid as the predominant component. Additionally, they contained cyanidin 3- O -galactoside, pelargonidin 3- O -glucoside and quinic acid. The obtained results show that the tested extracts and hydrogels had strong antioxidant properties and had a positive effect on the viability of skin cells in vitro. Additionally, it was shown that they stimulated the migration of these cells and had the ability to inhibit the activity of collagenase and elastase. Moreover, the tested hydrogels increased skin hydration and prevented transepidermal water loss. The obtained results indicate that the developed hydrogels may be effective delivery systems for phytochemicals contained in dogwood extracts.

Atopic dermatitis (AD)/atopic eczema is a chronic relapsing inflammatory skin disease affecting nearly 14% of the adult population. An important pathogenetic pillar in AD is the disrupted skin barrier function (SBF). The atopic stratum corneum (SC) has been examined using several methods, including Raman microspectroscopy, yet so far, there is no depth-dependent analysis over the entire SC thickness. Therefore, we recruited 21 AD patients (9 female, 12 male) and compared the lesional (LAS) with non-lesional atopic skin (nLAS) in vivo with confocal Raman microspectroscopy. Our results demonstrated decreased total intercellular lipid and carotenoid concentrations, as well as a shift towards decreased orthorhombic lateral lipid organisation in LAS. Further, we observed a lower concentration of natural moisturising factor (NMF) and a trend towards increased strongly bound and decreased weakly bound water in LAS. Finally, LAS showed an altered secondary and tertiary keratin structure, demonstrating a more folded keratin state than nLAS. The obtained results are discussed in comparison with healthy skin and yield detailed insights into the atopic SC structure. LAS clearly shows molecular alterations at certain SC depths compared with nLAS which imply a reduced SBF. A thorough understanding of these alterations provides useful information on the aetiology of AD and for the development/control of targeted topical therapies.