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The main purpose of this study is to develop a green dyeing process using Corchorus olitorius dye extract. Corchorus olitorius leaves were used as a new dyestuff source that has never been used for cotton fabric dyeing. Dye extraction was performed using a non-conventional clean process containing ethanol in an ultrasound bath. The extracted dye was applied to cotton fabric in a bath exhaustion process. The effect of dyeing parameters on the color strength of dyed fabric was studied. A response surface methodology design was used to optimize the dyeing process. The results showed that pH, dyeing temperature, and dyeing time significantly affect the dyed fabric. The optimum dyeing parameters were found at 90°C in a bath pH of 9 for 90 min. Finally, to improve the color strength, and the color-fastness, three mordanting processes, and three different mordants were used. Results show that pre-mordanted dyed cotton fabric using aluminum potassium sulfate produces the best fastness properties. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

From the textile manufacturers' point of view, coarse and medullated fibers are undesirable in the production of fine woolen materials, but highly desirable in the production of textiles and yarns with special effects, especially in carpet production. For sustainability, the entire sheep fleece should be used, including the coarse and medullated fibers. The raw wool must be scoured to obtain clean wool fibers without damage or excessive fiber entanglement, with a certain moisture content, low dirt content and residual grease for further processing, and proper color. In order to remove the impurities in raw wool with maximum efficiency, save energy and minimize the environmental impact, this study investigated the changes in some fiber properties during the scouring process due to the effect of the enzyme complex on coarse wool fibers. The effects were studied through the amount of clean wool fibers and impurities within the fleece, the fiber diameter and color. Conventional and enzyme scoured coarse wool were bleached with an unconventional bleaching agent, percarbonate, and compared to bleaching with hydrogen peroxide to achieve higher whiteness and brilliant color with minimal fiber property changes. The changes after the bleaching process were determined based on the sorption of moisture and dyes and the color parameters. The bio-innovative pretreatment with enzyme complex scouring and percarbonate bleaching resulted in excellent fiber properties even for coarse wool. SEM analysis was performed to confirm these results. Taking into account the sustainability of the process and environmental protection, enzyme complex scouring and percarbonate bleaching are recommended as pretreatment processes for raw coarse wool. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Chemical modification is a promising path to address the limitations of a natural dye, such as limited shades and inadequate fastness properties. This study investigated the modification of embelin (2, 5-dihydroxy-3-undecyl-1, 4-benzoquinone) a plant-based benzoquinone compound from Embelia schimperi (Myrisinaceae family) with ninhydrin to get a semisynthetic dye. The modified dye was applied to cotton fabric along with mordants to provide different shades. Optimum dyeing conditions were determined using Central Composite Design which showed optimum conditions of pH at 9, time of 60 min and temp of 80°C. The color fastness ratings were in the range of 4-5 evaluated on the Gray scale. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The innovation anticipated here is the use of our previously prepared chitosan nanoparticles in conjunction with citric acid and sodium hypophosphite for rendering viscose fabrics dyed and finished concurrently in one step with dual classes of dyes, namely basic and acid dyes, using a pad-dry-cure process. This was done to see the effect of the aforementioned eco-friendly finishing formulation on creating dual anchoring sites onto finished fabrics for dye-ability using Basic Red 2 and Acid Orange 7, which have no direct affinity to viscose fabric. So, different concentrations of CA, CNPs, and dyes were mixed into a viscose fabric cross-linking formulation together with a set concentration of SHP (50% based on weight of CA concentration) and cured at 170°C for 2 minutes. Citric acid is predicted to react with the hydroxyl groups in viscose and CNPs to produce ester crosslinking and/or to form an inter-ionic attraction with the amino groups of CNPs. The latter was responsible for viscose fabrics dye ability with Basic Red 2 by anchoring the free carboxyl groups in citric acid, as well as their dye ability with Acid Orange 7 by anchoring the residual amine groups in CNPs. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The objective of this research was to use the hydrogen peroxide as eco-friendly washing product to achieve a fading effect by creating a desirable gray vintage-look on sulfur black-dyed jean fabric. Visual appearance and colorimetric study using spectrophotometer showed that only the new two-steps process developed in this study helps to get the desirable look appearance with a good fastness. The (K/S)sum value of the two-steps process washed fabric decreased significantly (23.9% and 38.1% for washing at 80°C and 95°C, respectively). The SEM photos indicated that the physical properties of the cotton fibers are changed by effect of the peroxide hydrogen washing twosteps process. Indeed, a part of the cuticle is removed and the natural twists is disappeared with a specific tendency to fibrillation causing roughness and chemical heterogeneity of the fabric surface. The surface wettability of the twosteps process washed fabric was deeply changed as estimated by the initial contact angle values, the droplet spreading, the absorbency kinetics, and the total processing time of spreading. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The study approached to extract natural dye from the wastage leaves of Polyalthia longifolia and evaluate the dyeing properties on silk and cotton fabrics. Different analysis techniques were used to understand the characteristics of the dye and apply them to silk and cotton fabrics using UV-Vis spectrophotometer, FTIR, and SEM. The colorimetric properties were analyzed by reflectance spectrometry in terms of L*, a*, b*, c*, h°, and K/S values. The color fastness was investigated in terms of light, wash, rub (dry/wet), and perspiration tests. The optimum dye extraction obtained was 18% at 90°C in 60 min of extraction in the aqueous alkaline medium. The analysis results showed that the extracted reddish-brown colored dyes confirmed the presence of tannins and phenolic compounds. The color was fixed firmly on silk fabrics without any mordant. The post-mordanting method with ferrous sulfate and copper sulfate showed a better shade and lightfastness than other mordanting processes on silk fabrics. Ferrous sulfate and copper sulfate mordanted cotton fabrics showed good light and wash fastness properties. The study observed that the extracted natural dye of P. longifolia has the potential to be used as a textile dye. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this research work, cotton fabrics were dyed through Senegalia Catechu dye in two different mordants conditions such as myrobalan and pomegranate rind power. Three process parameters were taken, such as dyeing temperature, dye bath pH, and mordant concentration for optimization, and other processing conditions were kept unchanged. The Box-Behnken-L15 experimental design was followed for experimentation. Regression models were generated for two different mordanting conditions, and their statistical significance was also verified through ANOVA. A comparative analysis between two mordant conditions was done through RSM analysis and found that shade variations between the two different mordanted samples were noticeable in most cases. The FTIR and SEM analysis on the dyed fabric was carried out to understand the dyeing effectiveness and chemical modification of the structure. The optimized process parameters of myrobalan mordant condition are pH level (6–7), maximum dyeing temperature (80°C), and maximum mordant concentration (25%-30%). The optimized process parameters of pomegranate rind power are pH level (9–10), moderate dyeing temperature (70°C), and maximum mordant concentration (25%-30%). These differences were interpreted due to the chemical nature of mordants, dyeing condition, raw material specification etc. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Color strength of Eleutherine dye in combination with Turmeric dye at different wavelengths In many of the textile dyeing processes involving natural dyes, toxic organic solvents are used for the extraction of dye. So only the natural mordants, myrobalan fruit extract and pomegranate rind extract were used to study the color fastness properties in I Eleutherine i dye - Turmeric dye combination. Dyed fabrics, g. Myrobalan as mordant, h. Pomegranate as mordant, i. Turmeric dye, j. Eleutherine dye + Turmeric dye without any mordant, k. Keywords: Eleutherine bulbosa; natural dye; mordant; color strength; eco-friendly; ; ; ; EN Eleutherine bulbosa natural dye mordant color strength eco-friendly ZH 9039 9051 13 11/21/22 20221220 NES 221220 Introduction Natural dyes have been used since prehistoric times to dye fabrics. [Extracted from the article]

Effect of finish on the tear strength properties of treated fabric samples Conclusion The 100% CO and PES/CO fabric samples are impregnated with two different concentration 5% and 10% of Op-NE dyeing. SEM Images (a) Undyed 100% cotton fabric sample (b) 10% OP-NE dyed 100% cotton fabric sample Dye up-take All dyed samples exhibited an increase in the mass of the treated samples. Peel Extract-based Nanoemulsion on Anti-microbial and UPF Properties of Cotton and Cotton Blended Fabrics Both 100% cotton (CO) and polyester/cotton (PES/CO) blended fabric structure of 125 GSM has been dyed using onion peel extract based nano emulsion (OP-NE). [Extracted from the article]

Treated, dyed, and mordanted cotton fabric showed greater improvement in fastness compared to untreated dyed cotton fabric for example the wash fastness for aqueous extract improved from 2.5 for untreated to 3.0 for treated fabric. Treatment of the cotton fabric with tannic acid before dyeing with the I E. abyssinica i natural dye enhanced its dye uptake as shown by the significant increase in the color strength compared to the untreated cotton fabric. Generally, cationization of cotton fabric using tannic acid has been found to increase fabrics' dye uptake, color strength, and color fastness of the natural dye on the fabric (Bhuiyan et al. [12]). [Extracted from the article]

Two groups of laterally substituted non-mesomorphic and liquid crystalline materials bearing monoazo group were prepared and investigated via experimental and theoretical techniques. The molecular structures of the designed dyes were evaluated by FT-IR and NMR spectroscopic analyses. Mesomorphic examinations for all synthesized dyes were investigated by polarized optical microscopy (POM) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). Results revealed that, the thermal and optical properties of investigated compounds are mainly dependent on their molecular geometry. The optimized geometries of the azo derivatives and their electronic absorption of the dyes were carried out using the B3LYP/6-311G level of the DFT method. The azo dyes were measured for their dyeing performance on polyester fabrics. The dyed fabrics have excellent fastness properties with a color strength of 1.49–3.43 and an exhaustion rate of 82–64%. The chemical descriptor parameters of disperse azo dyes in gas phase were calculated and correlated with dyeing parameters. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The extraction of natural dye using an aqueous method is a concept of green chemistry to avoid environmental pollution and toxicity. The present study was performed to improve the color strength and fastness properties of the fabrics by using natural dye and banana pseudo stem sap as a natural mordant. The natural dye was extracted from marigold flowers (Tagetes erecta) and optimized for dyeing of cotton and silk fabrics. The extraction of the dye was done in an aqueous solution without using any solvents. The optimum results were obtained when the fabric was dyed at 80°C for 60 min by keeping the mass to liquid ratio 1:40 at pH-7 (1.19). The color strength and CIELab (L*, a*, and b*) color parameters were also investigated. The effect of banana pseudo stem saps as a natural mordant on the color strength and fastness properties of the cotton and silk fabrics were evaluated and compared. The cotton fabrics were further characterized by FTIR spectroscopy and Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) to assess the physical and chemical changes after dyeing and mordanting. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In our previous work, we demonstrated that the dyeing of polyamide and wool fibers with methanolic extract of Juglans Regia fractions depended on several experimental conditions. In the current investigation, Fuzzy logic and response surface methodologies were compared and used to predict the dyeing behavior of wool and polyamide fibers with Juglans R. extract. The operational conditions studied here were: Juglans extract concentration (0.05–0.5 %), time of dyeing (5–45 min), and temperature (50–95 °C) as input variables. Data was checked by measuring the color strength (K/S) as an output variable. To carry out the best suitable model, the root mean square error (RMSE), the relative mean absolute error (RMAE), and the mean relative percent error (MRPE) were used as performance criteria. Results indicated that MRPE values ranged between 0.25 % and 0.6 % which could be considered low and significant, according to literature. The RMSE values were less than K/S standard deviation. Overall, both methodologies proved their ability to predict the color strength measurement. Comparing their performance criteria, fuzzy logic methodology gave the least errors values suggesting that this method was more powerful than response surface methodology. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Bicomponent polyesters filaments are increasingly used in the textile fields due to their technical and high performances (mechanical, physical, and chemical properties) comparing to conventional polyethylene terephthalate and Elasthane™ thermoplastic polyether polyurethane used in denim fabrics. The purpose of this work is to evaluate the stability of the mechanical and physical properties of bicomponent filaments before and after dyeing with three disperse dyes having different molecular weights (low, medium, and high). Bicomponent filaments composed of two filaments extruded side by side with two unequal proportions 60 % polyethylene terephthalate (PET) and 40 % polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT) are used in this study. A full factorial experimental design was established to analyze the dyeing parameters effect (temperature and pH value of dye bath) and optimize the color strength (K/S) while maintaining the stability of the mechanical and physical properties of bicomponent filaments. After dyeing, these properties were evaluated and their stability was proved using several analysis techniques such as SEM, DSC, and XRD. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The significance of textile coloration is inevitable as coloration is a critical process and it can be affected by several parameters i. e. time, temperature, pH, and liquor ratio (M:L). This research reveals the behavior of different dye bath pH (2 to 12) on the basis of spectrophotometric characteristics and colorfastness using the most useable brand of reactive dye in Bangladesh i. e. Remazol Yellow RR. Earlier researches were performed on the basis of other coloration controlling factors i. e. temperature, time and liquor ratio (M:L) where pH acts as the dependent variable. However in this study, pH was taken as an independent variable where lower pH (2, 4 and 6), medium pH (8 and 10) and higher pH (12) were taken into consideration for verifying the dyeing performance. Meanwhile, the mentioned pH was achieved by adding acetic acid, soda ash and caustic soda respectively. In this study, the impact of pH is analyzed on the basis of color strength, chromaticity, hue angle, CIELAB color space, spectrophotometric image, reflectance percentage and color fastness tests i. e color fastness to rubbing, color fastness to wash, color fastness to perspiration, color fastness to light. Gradually elevated pH boosts up the color strength and chromaticity, at the same time downgrades of hue angle results orangish tone in the dyed fabric. Even more, the lightness of dyed fabric decreases and redness rises with the increment of dyebath pH which results in orangish red darker tone of dyed fabric. Consequently, fabric dyed at acidic dye bath pH exhibits higher resistance in case of color change and color staining from the dyed fabric and multifiber fabric respectively and vice versa.

Reactive dyes are the most widely used dyes in dyeing cotton. The high amount of electrolyte used for reactive dyeing of cotton fabrics inevitably poses environmental threats. Chitosan is used for different purposes in many areas in textiles due to its superior properties. In this study, the use of synthetic polyelectrolyte poly(sodium salt of acrylic acid) instead of inorganic electrolyte sodium chloride in reactive dyeing and the effects of chitosan on the reactive dyeing behavior of fabric were investigated. In addition, the washing fastness and ultraviolet protection factors of the fabrics were also observed. Treatment with chitosan before dyeing and the use of sodium chloride in dyeing increased the color depths compared to conventional dyeings, and this increase continued with the rise in chitosan concentration. Such that, values similar to the color strength of 3% conventional dyeing were obtained from the dyeing at 2% concentration following the application of chitosan at 8% concentration. The effect of the sodium chloride concentration increase on the color depth was observed more prominently than the polyelectrolyte. It has been understood that the working principle of the poly (acrylic acid sodium salt) in the reactive dyeing of cotton is relatively complex due to its non-ionizability, temperature-concentration-pH sensitivity and composing hydrophobic dye combinations. In addition, it was thought that different salt sensitivities of dyes might have created a difference in the effect of electrolytes. While the washing fastness of the chitosan-applied and dyed samples was good-excellent, it was observed that the crosslinking used in the chitosan application increased these values by 0.5 points. It has been observed that dyes were more effective than chitosan in increasing the ultraviolet protection factor. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The resistance of the material to a change of its color characteristics during exposure to sunlight, rubbing and washing as domestic and laundry and other various ways are referred to as color fastness of dyes or pigments. In this research, 100% cotton and blended fabrics were dyed with fluorescent pigments i.e. Shining Flu Pink-F17 and Papillion Orange-FGRN in exhaust dyeing method. The improvement of color fastness properties, i.e. color fastness to washing, rubbing, perspiration and light were observed with the treatment of using antioxidants and UV-absorbers. There were eight samples of dyed fabrics (Four samples of 100% cotton knit fabric and four samples of 60/40 cotton-polyester blended fabrics) treated with 1% (v/v) of antioxidants i.e. Gallic acid, L-Ascorbic acid and UV absorbers i.e. 2-hydroxy-4 methoxy-benzophenone, 4-4 dimethoxy-benzophenone respectively. The treatment of antioxidant L-Ascorbic acid and UV absorber 4-4 dimethoxy-benzophenone provides satisfactory improvement of fastness properties than other antioxidants and UV absorbers. The results were mainly interpreted in terms of color strength, visual assessment of evenness and fastness ratings. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The present study aims at optimization of dyeing process parameters such as dyeing temperature, dyeing pH, and mordant concentration toward achieving maximum color strength and antimicrobial activity of cotton fabric dyed with Indian madder (Rubia cordifolia) as a natural dye. Box-Behnken three factorial with three levels experimental design (dyeing temperature ranges are 60ºC, 70ºC, and 80ºC, dyeing pH ranges are 6, 9, and 12, Mordant concentration ranges are 10%, 20%, and 30% of OWF) was used for optimization. Results showed that all the selected process variables have influenced the color strength as well as antimicrobial activity against the microbes such as Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli. The quadratic regression models have been developed for optimization of all the process parameters and it was validated through ANOVA. UV-Vis spectroscopy, Phytochemical analysis, and FTIR studies have been conducted to confirm the presence of the phytochemical compounds. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Response surface methodology was used to investigate the influences of sodium chloride (NaCl), soda ash (Na2CO3), and sodium hydroxide (NaOH) concentrations on cotton and the degree of exhaustion (DE) of Reactive Blue 21 dyestuff (RB21), as well as to optimize dyeing conditions. A 23 central composite and rotational design was used as a support to carry out 17 dyeings with RB21 on a 100% knitted cotton substrate. NaCl, Na2CO3, and NaOH concentrations were used as factors. Responses comprised color strength (K S‒1) and the DE. The results indicate that a square model was the best fit. This model was able to increase both K S‒1 and DE values, with the colorfastness to water and rubbing carried out with supplier’s formulation recipe. This study demonstrates that the use of the response surface methodology in color matching can contribute to the textile industry in the prediction or assessment of formulations for a specific color.

• Disperse azo dyes based on 4-aminoantipyrine were synthesized and characterized by UV–visible, FT-IR and NMR. • Significantly improved fastness properties of the new disperse dyes for the PET fabrics were observed. • The color strengths (K/S) and dye exhaustion indicate high efficiency of disperse dyes on polyester fiber. • The computational results of absorptions spectra of azo disperse dyes are compared with the experimental ones. Disperse azo dyes are important colorants for dyeing polyester fabrics, but developing optimized disperse azo dyes remains a challenge. This work details the synthesis of seven new disperse azo dyes 3a-g derived from the coupling reaction of 4-aminoantipyrine diazonium salt with various phenolic precursors including phenol (3a), salicylic acid (3b), salicylaldehyde (3c), cresols (3d-f), and resorcinol (3g). The dyes were characterized by spectroscopic techniques. Their UV–visible absorption spectra were studied, revealing bathochromic shifts for 3d-g containing electron-donating methyl and hydroxyl substituents compared to parent dye 3a while dyes 3b-c showed hypsochromic shifts. The impact of acid and base on the absorption spectra indicates azo-hydrazone tautomerism for 3f-g but predominant azo form for 3a-e. The dyes showed excellent dyeing on polyester fabrics with up to 97.86 % dye exhaustion. High wash, light and perspiration fastness was exhibited while fastness to respiration varied. The strongest color yield on polyester was achieved with 3g derived from resorcinol coupler. Density functional theory calculations were performed to elucidate relationships between substituent effects and spectral attributes. Lower energy gaps were computed for 3f-g , consistent with enhanced reactivity. This work expands disperse azo dye precursors while offering fundamental structure-performance insight to guide future design. The potent polyester coloration and good fastness properties warrant ongoing investigation of these dyes. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

With the release of high‐brightness and high‐chromatic OLED displays, color characteristics have become different from existing displays. The saturation of each pixel increases, and the luminance range widens, resulting in an H‐K effect that looks brighter than the actual luminance. This is a phenomenon that looks bright due to high purity and cannot be measured. In this paper, we intend to quantify the color characteristics of OLEDs using perceptual lightness predicted by color appearance model (CAM16) and measured luminance values. A new model to predict the H‐K effect was suggested as 'Color Strength' using the perceptual lightness and luminance. As a result, the values of QD OLED, W OLED, and LCD were compared by calculating the Color Strength. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Purpose – Themajority of the synthetic dyes have been found to be non-biodegradable, toxic and carcinogenic. As a result, there has been a growing trend toward the use of natural dyes as alternates to synthetic dyes. This shift calls for more research to come up with more sources of natural dyes to satisfy their increasing demand. Euclea divinorum plant has been used traditionally as a source of dye, however, its textile dyeing properties have not been studied. This study aims to determine the textile dyeing properties of E. divinorumextract. Design/methodology/approach – Optimization of dyeing conditions of Euclea divinorum natural dye extract on the cotton fabric was done using response surface methodology (RSM). The combined effects of examined dyeing conditions on the relative color strength (K/S) were studied using a central composite experimental design. Analysis of variance (ANOVA) was used to determine the significance of the statistical model generated for the study. Mordanting effects were measured using standard ISO wash, rub and lightfastness tests. Findings – The optimum dyeing conditions were found to be 68 min, pH 3.3 and 82°C with color strength 0.609. Temperature and pH showed some interaction effects during the dyeing experiments. The predicted optimum K/S value was validated experimentally using the optimum conditions and was found to be in agreement with the experimental values. All the metallic mordants used enhanced the color strength and provided a variety of brown shades, therefore, a suitable alternative for the toxic synthetic dyes. Originality/value – Optimization of dyeing conditions of Euclea divinorum dye on cotton using RSM and mordanting at optimal conditions has not been done elsewhere. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The purposes of the current research were to deposit the silver nanoparticles on the surface of a textile woven fabric and evaluate their dyeing performance and antibacterial activity. The synthesis of silver nanoparticle (Ag°) is done by the in situ method. Strong alkali is used to improve functionality of cellulose before the application of silver nitrate salt (AgNO3). The silver nanoparticle is formed by reduction of ascorbic acid. Various instrumental analyses are done to prove the formation of nanoparticles on the fabric surface. The morphology of nanodeposited fabric is characterized by using scanning electron microscope (SEM), elemental composition is done by energy dispersive spectroscopy, and crystallinity of nanoparticles is obtained by X-ray diffraction (XRD). Nanodeposited fabric is then dyed with direct dyestuff (Direct Red-89). Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy analysis is done to explore the bonding phenomena of un-dyed and dyed fabrics. The dyeing performance and antibacterial activity are examined on the colored fabric to investigate the dyed fabric quality after nanoparticle deposition. Results demonstrate the improvement of 54% of color strength and 11% of dye exhaustion with excellent antibacterial activity.

In wake of eco-friendly approach, there is a growing trend to impart various functional attributes in textile substrates through green chemistry approaches. In this context, a comparative study of coloration, mosquito repellency, UV protection and antimicrobial potential was made for seven plant extracts applied on cotton fabric. The plant biomass include leaves of Lawsonia inermis, rhizome of Curcuma longa, bark of Acacia nilotica & Eucalyptus globules, peels of Punica grantum & Allium cepa and flowers of Tagetes erecta. For this purpose, extracts of these plants biomass were applied on cotton fabric samples and evaluated for their color strength by Kubelka-Munk equation; anti-microbial potential by zone of inhibition in bacteriostasis agar; UPF for UV protection by ultraviolet absorbance analysis; mosquito repellency by percentage insect landing and percentage repellency. It was found that T. erecta showed good mosquito repellency, UV protection and antimicrobial potential along with its exceptionally high color strength value but poor fastness properties. However, A. nilotica demonstrated outstanding fastness properties but showed moderate color strength value.

Developing an eco-benign dyeing process through natural products such as fruits is a way to achieve sustainability in the manufacturing process. The present research focuses on extracting natural dye from Garcinia mangostana Linn (G. mangostana Linn) skin wastes for leather dyeing purposes. The aqueous colorant extract from G. mangostana Linn characterization peel waste has been extracted through green synthesis and characterized for their suitable applications. The functional annotation of the colorant shows 3398, 2926, 1708, and 1631 cm−1 stretching correspond to anthocyanin molecule. The particle size of the obtained dye measured about 420 nm in diameter. Using Response Surface Methodology, dyeing parameters such as concentration, temperature, and duration are optimized. The optimum dyeing condition is 20% dye, with a 2 h duration in the leather processing. The effect of mordants has been studied and found that there is an increase in color intensity. The results of fastness, organoleptic, and physical properties are in an acceptable range. The study provides an insight into the utilization of food wastes into high-value products for leather dyeing.

Yarn‐dyed fabric is often woven from warp and weft yarns in the same color depth to ensure a uniform color appearance. The difference in color depth between warp and weft tends to result in the uneven color of the yarn‐dyed fabric. This article aims to establish a color tolerance for yarn‐dyed fabric that can be woven with a qualified color appearance but from the warp and weft yarns in different color depths. A total of 27 yarn‐dyed fabric samples in three color series (red, yellow, and blue) were evaluated by using the yarn‐dyed fabric from warp and weft yarns in the same color depth of 2% (on weight of fabric, owf) as the standard. Visual assessment and instrumental measurement of color were carried out to establish the color tolerance ellipse that was defined as CMC (Color Measurement Committee) color differences (2:1) of no more than 1.00. It was found that the color strengths (K/S) and color differences (ΔECMC(2:1)) of these fabric samples for each color series had linear relationships with the color depths of warp and weft yarns. The color tolerance ellipses indicated that, even though the warp and weft yarns had an apparent color difference, they could be woven in fabrics with relatively uniform color appearance and meet the requirements for yarn‐dyed fabric. This work provided valuable insight into the production of qualified yarn‐dyed fabrics from unqualified dyed yarns. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract The aim of this study is to investigate the efficacy of persimmon (Diospyros kaki L.) peel extract as a reductant for indigo dyeing. Dried persimmon peel was water extracted and its sugar contents and functionalities were determined. Its reducing power was studied in terms of redox potential of the indigo bath and color strength (K/S value) of the ramie fabrics dyed in the indigo reduction bath. Total sugar content of the extract was 74.3%. Antioxidant capacity reached up to 86.0% at 3.5 μg/mL of the extract concentration. The persimmon peel extract had an effect on indigo reduction and the maximum color strength was obtained within one or two day. At 2–3% of the extract concentration, the redox potential of the indigo bath was maintained in the range of − 550 ~ − 600 mV for 10 days. With increase in the extract concentration, reduction state lasted for longer time and higher color strength was obtained. The persimmon peel extract can be used for indigo reduction dyeing as a sustainable, nontoxic, biodegradable alternative to sodium dithionite.

Colored wastewater discharge into the water system would pose a severe threat to human health and aquatic life. It is critical to enhance dye utilization and reduce dye discharge in the textile industry. In this work, a novel colored silica nanosphere was designed as pigment to dye cotton fabrics and could be recycled in the dyeing process. The worm-like hydrophilic porous silica (WHMS) nanospheres possess a large specific surface area of 968.61 m2/g, an average size of 300 nm, and strong electronegativity. The WHMS-dye nanosphere was fabricated through the adsorption of rhodamine B (RB) and methylene blue (MB) onto WHMS nanospheres. The adsorption capacities of WHMS nanospheres towards RB and MB were above 500 mg/g. It demonstrated that the prepared WHMS-dye nanospheres possessed good stability and coloration performance on the cotton fabrics, originating from the enrichment of dyes on the WHMS nanospheres. The color strength of colored nanospheres-dyed cotton fabrics is deeper compared with the pure dye. Moreover, the dyed cotton fabrics show satisfactory color fastness and hand feel. The colored silica nanospheres could be reused for the next dyeing process to reduce dyes discharge. This work shows that WHMS-dye nanospheres may be used as an environmentally sound pigment for dyeing cotton fabrics to avoid a large amount of dyes discharge. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Two groups of laterally substituted non-mesomorphic and liquid crystalline materials bearing monoazo group were prepared and investigated via experimental and theoretical techniques. The molecular structures of the designed dyes were evaluated by FT-IR and NMR spectroscopic analyses. Mesomorphic examinations for all synthesized dyes were investigated by polarized optical microscopy (POM) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC). Results revealed that, the thermal and optical properties of investigated compounds are mainly dependent on their molecular geometry. The optimized geometries of the azo derivatives and their electronic absorption of the dyes were carried out using the B3LYP/6-311G level of the DFT method. The azo dyes were measured for their dyeing performance on polyester fabrics. The dyed fabrics have excellent fastness properties with a color strength of 1.49–3.43 and an exhaustion rate of 82–64%. The chemical descriptor parameters of disperse azo dyes in gas phase were calculated and correlated with dyeing parameters.

The aim of this study was to investigate and compare the effect of process variables on the color and physical characteristics of viscose and cotton knitted fabrics. The effect of dye concentration, salt concentration, soda ash, dyeing time, dyeing temperature, material to liquor ratio, different dye class, fabric GSM, washing time, washing temperature, and enzyme concentration were investigated in terms of color strength (K/S value), color fastness, and pilling resistance. The K/S value of the colored fabric was calculated using UV visible spectrophotometer SF 650 TM and the pilling resistance of the enzyme-treated fabrics was tested by an ICI pilling tester. The results show that dye concentration has the greatest and key effect on the K/S value of viscose and cotton fabric. However, viscose fabric shows a higher K/S value than that of cotton fabric in similar dyeing conditions. Furthermore, the multi-functional dyes demonstrate the upmost K/S value than the vinyl sulphone dyes. Moreover, it was found that enzymatic treatment improved the pilling grade of cotton fabric, whereas no enzymatic effect on viscose fabric was observed.

This part investigates the dyeing properties of myrrh (Commiphora molmol) extract on wool and silk fabrics and the use of eco-friendly materials such as sumac (Rhus coriaria) and manjakani (Quercus infectoria) as mordants. The dyeing conditions (e.g., myrrh concentration, pH, and bath temperature) were optimized. Dyed fabrics were assessed for color strength (K/S), tensile strength, and stiffness. Also, the FTIR for myrrh, sumac, and manjakani was determined. The results show that the best results got in these experiments for dyeing with myrrh extract are: 100% myrrh extract, pH 4.5, temperature 100°C, and the time of 60 min.

The main object of this researh work is to analyze different blend fabric dyeing with reactive and disperse dyes and evaluate color parameters. In this research work Remazol reactive dye, Tricon diperse dye and four types of blended fabrics were used like as 50/50 polyester viscose blended fabric (Blend A), 65/35 Polyester Cotton s/j blended fabric (Blend B), 60/40 CVC s/j blended fabric (Blend C), and 80/20 chief value cotton (CVC) s/j blended fabric (Blend D) for dyeing with light, medium & dark shade. The different blend fabrics were dyed by batch process with the help of lab dyeing machine keeping material to liquor ratio 1:10. Spectrophotometer was used to find out the color strength and amount of dye in the fabrics before and after soap wash. Beside this washing and rubbing fastness levels of the dyed blended fabrics were investigate. It was found that, considering all the blends the k/s value and fastness properties of blend D is better for light, medium and dark shade. But if it is considered only dark shade, then k/s value of blend B is higher than all the blends. Key words: blended fabrics, color strength, washing and rubbing fastness, Spectrophotometer, cotton and polyester dyeing.

The present research investigates the use of biocolorants (Anthocyanin and chlorophyll) extracted from Cinnamomum camphora waste/fallen leaves to develop natural and beautiful shades on wool fibers. Simple aqueous extraction followed by the evaluation of build-up properties using binary metal combinations (ferrous sulfate/Fe, copper sulfate/Cu, and aluminum potassium sulfate/Al) as mordants were studied in due course of this study. The dyeing was carried out by the exhaust dyeing method and the dyed samples were analyzed through reflectance spectroscopy in terms of color strength, CIELAB, and CIELCH values. The results showed that overall 19 shades of different hue and tone were produced. A comparative colorimetric analysis of characteristic variables between single and mix metal mordanted samples was also done. One-way ANOVA analysis was used to compare the significant differences between individual components and synergetic role in two different combinations. Pearson's correlation analysis was used to find out any positive or negative correlation between different combinations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Response surface methodology was used to investigate the influences of sodium chloride (NaCl), soda ash (Na2CO3), and sodium hydroxide (NaOH) concentrations on cotton and the degree of exhaustion (DE) of Reactive Blue 21 dyestuff (RB21), as well as to optimize dyeing conditions. A 23 central composite and rotational design was used as a support to carry out 17 dyeings with RB21 on a 100% knitted cotton substrate. NaCl, Na2CO3, and NaOH concentrations were used as factors. Responses comprised color strength (K S‒1) and the DE. The results indicate that a square model was the best fit. This model was able to increase both K S‒1 and DE values, with the colorfastness to water and rubbing carried out with supplier's formulation recipe. This study demonstrates that the use of the response surface methodology in color matching can contribute to the textile industry in the prediction or assessment of formulations for a specific color. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In wake of eco-friendly approach, there is a growing trend to impart various functional attributes in textile substrates through green chemistry approaches. In this context, a comparative study of coloration, mosquito repellency, UV protection and antimicrobial potential was made for seven plant extracts applied on cotton fabric. The plant biomass include leaves of Lawsonia inermis, rhizome of Curcuma longa, bark of Acacia nilotica & Eucalyptus globules, peels of Punica grantum & Allium cepa and flowers of Tagetes erecta. For this purpose, extracts of these plants biomass were applied on cotton fabric samples and evaluated for their color strength by Kubelka-Munk equation; anti-microbial potential by zone of inhibition in bacteriostasis agar; UPF for UV protection by ultraviolet absorbance analysis; mosquito repellency by percentage insect landing and percentage repellency. It was found that T. erecta showed good mosquito repellency, UV protection and antimicrobial potential along with its exceptionally high color strength value but poor fastness properties. However, A. nilotica demonstrated outstanding fastness properties but showed moderate color strength value. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

This study investigated different dyeing conditions for a cross bobbin acrylic cotton blend yarn, with the aim of identifying, through the bleaching of cotton fiber. Interference from the addition of softener regarding the tone difference across the bobbin, especially the inner end, was also studied. With these dyes, the concentration profiles of the basic dye and the reactive dye were determined and it was found that the dyeing of acrylic fibers is governed by pseudo-first order kinetics while dyeing cotton fibers fits well with pseudo-first and second order kinetics. For the dyeing of acrylic fibers, the direction of bath circulation did not affect the intensity of thread color. The best results for color intensity were obtained with mercerized yarn bobbins. There was a trend toward higher color intensity at the inner end of the bobbin when softener was added. This occurred due to the higher flow velocity inside the bobbin. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

A million ton of cotton fabric is wasted during cutting process in garment industry as well as in textile dyeing industry due to faulty dyeing. Color stripping of cotton fabric has become a significant challenge in the textile industry because the harsh chemicals used in chemical stripping processes affects the quality of fabric very badly. Conventional stripping methods lead with severe effects due to prolonged treatment time and high chemical concentrations. Recently, microwave-assisted stripping techniques have been emerged as effective alternatives to improve stripping efficiency. In this research, the developed microwave assisted stripping system is improved by the application of Urea, which is utilized as a microwave absorber to further reduce stripping time, temperature, and chemical concentration kept focus on quality parameters of recycled cotton fabric. This study inspects the efficiency of microwave absorber-assisted alkali hydrolysis and reduction in terms of dye-fabric bond cleavage, chromophores removal, chemical consumption, and processing time and compared with sequential stripping, microwave assisted stripping without absorber and conventional methods. The results indicated that microwave absorber-assisted alkali hydrolysis and reduction achieved 90 % stripping efficiency by using lowest concentrations of chemicals, while sequential stripping yielded a stripping efficiency of 96 %. Similarly, microwave absorber assisted methods resulted in minor loss in tear strength and weight. These outputs highlight the superior performance of microwave absorber-assisted techniques, demonstrating their efficiency, novelty, time-saving nature, and reduced damage compared to other methods., Competing Interests: The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (© 2024 The Authors.)

This study was undertaken to propose an alternative use of Adhatoda vasica leaves extract as a potential source of natural dye for the coloration of woolen yarn/fibers. Premordanting technique was adopted with double metal salt combinations of ferrous sulfate, stannous chloride, and potassium aluminum sulfate and double biomordant combinations of gallnut, pomegranate, and babool, to achieve dyed textile materials of acceptable colorimetric and fastness properties. Sixty-three sober and elegant shades were developed on wool by varying the nature and the concentration of mordants involved in the combinations. The hue of color developed was found to be in yellow-red coordinate of color space diagram. All the dyed samples presented excellent color strength (K/S) values and highest values were found in case of gallnut + pomegranate peel extract (PPE) combination. Biomordants produced altogether different behavior in comparison to metal mordants in the development of ecofriendly shades of different hue and tune. Majority of the dyed samples showed excellent fastness properties with respect to light, washing, and rubbing which confirmed the possibility of using A. vasica leaves extract as an effective yellow natural dye.

A new and simple method based on natural dyeing was developed for producing antibacterial and biodegradable cotton fabrics. Using the aqueous extraction procedure, a natural dye was extracted from boiled pomegranate rinds and prepared into a fine powder. The whey protein isolate was used as an ecofriendly mordant to increase the affinity of cotton fabrics to the pomegranate rind extract. The different dyeing parameters, including dye concentration, temperature, time, and dyeing bath pH, were optimized via reflectance spectrophotometry using the three different pre-mordanting, simultaneous mordanting, and post-mordanting dyeing methods. The pre-mordanting method performed at a temperature of 80 °C yielded the best overall efficiency in terms of dye color strength and depth of shade under the optimized dyeing conditions of a concentration of 70%, pH = 4.5, time = 80 min, a material to liquid ratio of 1:20, and a temperature of 90 °C. The bio-fabrics thus produced exhibited excellent wash and light fastness. The results of FTIR spectroscopy confirmed the chemical interaction between cotton fabrics and the combination of WPI/dye agents. Moreover, SEM micrographs revealed the homogeneous surface morphology of the bio-fabrics without any microscopic cracks or discontinuities in the sample surface. Results also revealed that, with 18 h of contact time, the proposed ecofriendly method was able to produce bio-fabrics that maintained desirable antibacterial properties against pathogenic and spoilage bacteria, even after 10 washing cycles and also exhibited excellent protection against ultraviolet radiation. The results confirmed that this procedure is promising for producing dyed fabrics for biomedical applications without adverse environmental effects and that the natural mordant used is a good replacement for the commonly used metallic ones. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The exhibition 17/71 with the theme ” Goresan Juang Kemerdekaan” or “The Scratch for Independent Struggles” was held from the 17th to the 30th of August 2016 at the Indonesian National Gallery in Jakarta. The showroom combined multiple visual elements, including shape, symbol, lines of narration, and color. The most influential element was the color management. The exhibition presented collections of Indonesian art paintings focusing on the Indonesian struggle for independence, and included paintings from Indonesian artists as well as foreign contributions. This paper offers an overview of the effectiveness and contribution to the overall appeal of the exhibition of the colour management techniques. The researcher used qualitative and semiotic methods to demonstrate that the meaning of color and its symbol of strength have become the potential reference for management of art objects collection in the showrooms. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this research work, an attempt has been made to investigate the possibility of wool dyeing with natural dye extracted from the Cinnamomum camphora middle aged/mature leaves. Visually, a range of ecofriendly shades with quite different color gamut of varying hue and tone were produced via the application of different natural mordants. The effect of various natural mordants (gallnut, pomegranate peel, arjun bark, chlorophyll extract, and citric acid) and some commonly used metal mordants (ferrous sulfate, copper sulfate, stannous chloride, and sodium dichromate) on color and fastness properties of dyed wool samples was comparatively evaluated in conjunction with 50% (o.w.f.) of C. camphora natural dye. Dyeing experiments were performed with and without mordants employing pre-mordanting technique. The color of dyed wool fibers were investigated in terms of CIELab (L*, a*, and b*) and color strength values (K/S); and fastness properties were determined as per ISO standard test methods. In general, pre-biomordanted wool fibers with P. granatum (3, 4 and 5% o.w.f.), citric acid (5% o.w.f.) and chlorophyll extract (10–50% o.w.f.) showed comparable color and fastness results compared to those of metal treated samples. Durability of color was also checked to assess the effect of washing of dyed wool fibers. This research work on the use of ecofriendly biomordants will provide a valuable reference in future for ecological and environmentally safe dyeing. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The aim of this research was to identify the color fastness properties of the natural dyes on cotton fabrics using different types of dyes like mehedy/henna, turmeric, tea leaf and pomegranate, which were cheap, easily obtainable and ecofriendly. The findings established that, mehedy/henna dye reacted with cellulose of cotton in alkaline condition to form a permanent covalent bond between the dye and the cellulose, which would not be removed by frequent washing treatment with steaming water in neutral conditions and exposed excellent color fastness properties. Mehedy dye had a reactive group that acted as an integral part of fiber and this covalent bond was formed between the dye molecules and the terminal reactive group. With necessary treatments these dyes were collected from nature in powder form and liquefied them for dyeing on 100% cotton mercerized fabrics with necessary chemicals and auxiliaries as natural dyes had affinity towards cellulosic fibers. Continuous dyeing process was carried out with the facilities of "Pad Dye Pad Steam" machine in open width form and then steamed wash to fix the colors with natural dyestuffs. Dyeing process and color fastness tests were carried out in accordance with the test method provided by AATCC and ISO standards. Dye absorption and color strength tests were conducted with the facilities of lab spectrophotometer "Data Color Spectra Flash SF600" in agreement with Kubelka Monk equation through the spectral reflectance, absorption and scattering characteristics of the samples. "Nicolet IS 50 FTIR" instrument was applied to attain the color intensity properties through the passage of Infrared Radiation (IR) within the spectrum. This research was practice based and the findings were advantageous to the personnel involved in textile industries who were responsible for dyeing the fabrics with natural dyes and to controlling of their color fastness properties. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this decade, aesthetic potentials of electrospun polymeric nanofibers for advanced apparels have been studied. For the first time, we studied the sustainable aspects in the batchwise dyeing process of electrospun polymeric nanofibers in terms of conserving thermal energy and reducing the wastewater pollution. The nanofibrous mats were prepared using polyurethane (PU) polymer followed by dyeing with disperse dyes by conventional (CN) dyeing method as well as ultrasonic (US)-assisted dyeing method. Potential of savings in thermal energy (1000 kcal), dwell time (40 min) and quantity of disperse dyes (1.5% on the mass of nanofibers) were realized during the US-assisted dyeing method in comparison with the CN dyeing method. Further, total dissolved solids (TDS) and chemical oxygen demand (COD) contents of dyeing effluents demonstrated considerable ecological merits of the US dyeing method in terms of 30% reduction in TDS and 46% reduction in COD contents in comparison with the CN dyeing method. Excellent color strength (K/S) (reached 10) of dyed PU nanofibrous mats were achieved by US-assisted dyeing method in comparison with the K/S (reached 6) with CN dyeing method. Attenuated total reflectance-Fourier transform infra-red (FTIR) spectroscopy, UV–Vis spectrophotometer and Scanning electron microscopy (SEM) analysis were also applied during the study for characterization. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The wool fiber is a suitable medium for growing different microorganism. In recent years, the treatment of textiles with silver compounds as an active antibacterial agent has gained increased attention to produce advanced medical and hygiene textiles. The current work aims to synthesize silver nanoparticles through two different methods, which are silver pre-treatment and simultaneous silver treatment during indigo dyeing procedures. The formation of spherical silver nanoparticle confirmed by the appearance of a single symmetric extinction peak around 415 nm. The morphology of the indigo-dyed wool fabrics examined using scanning electron microscopy, and their colorimetric characteristics evaluated. The SEM images of wool fiber samples indicated that the silver pre-treatment method resulted in the formation of smaller micro-size (0.73 µm) platelet-like structure of indigo colorant compared with simultaneous silver treatment method (1.46 µm). The indigo-dyed wool samples without silver treatment presented lower color strength at all visible wavelengths compared with silver treatment indigo-dyed samples. Moreover, the simultaneous silver treatment method resulted in a lower color strength compare with the silver pre-treatment method, which due to lower silver content. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

It is expected from a fabric applied with durable softener agent, not only a smooth, slippery and soft touch but also durable color even after several cycles of use and care. From this point of view, at this study weft knitted fabrics were manufactured using Siro, ring and open-end cotton yarns, bleached and dyed, followed by softening treatment with silicone, cationic and nonionic softeners at 1 and 3% softener concentration levels. Color strength and lightness values of the treated fabrics were evaluated by considering color changes after abrasion. Since the loss of fibers from a fabric surface during abrasion cycles causes prominent changes in the fabric's color, differentiation in the color that occur after a certain number of abrasion cycles (2500, 5000, 7500, 10000) were also measured for evaluation of the abrasion resistance of a fabric. Considering the yarn type and number of abrasion cycles, interaction effects of those with softener type and softener concentration on color strength and lightness were presented and discussed separately. From the results, it was observed that the color values of fabrics after abrasion cycles are closely related to yarn type, softener type, and concentration. The most significant changes in both L* and K/S values were obtained after fabric were abraded 2500 cycles. Softener type, as well as concentration, should be decided according to the target color shade before coloration. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Combination of gambier liquid waste and secang wood (Caesalpinea sappan L.) can add color variations of fabric dyed with natural dyes. This research explained the effect of dyeing combination of gambir liquid waste and secang wood with different mordant method and type on the color shade and other characteristics of rayon and cotton dyed fabric. The mordant process was performed as much as 1 and 2 times using CaO, Al(2SO4)3, FeSO4 mordant and then compared without mordant treatment. The result of the dyed fabrics was evaluated the color shade, color strength (K/S), and fastness properties. The results showed that the color shade of rayon and cotton fabrics were varied. Rayon fibers had a greater affinity and absorption to the liquids waste of gambier and secang wood than in cellulose fibers. The mordant process could increase color strength (K/S) and color fastness to washing, acidic perspiration, rubbing, and light.ABSTRAKKombinasi limbah cair gambir dan kayu secang (Caesalpinea sappan L.) dapat menambah variasi warna kain yang dicelup dengan pewarna alami. Penelitian ini menjelaskan tentang efek pewarnaan kombinasi limbah cair gambir dan kayu secang dengan metoda dan jenis mordan yang berbeda terhadap arah warna dan karakteristik lainnnya dari kain rayon dan katun hasil celupan. Proses mordan yang digunakan adalah 1 kali dan 2 kali mordan menggunakan CaO, Al(2SO4)3, FeSO4 yang dibandingkan dengan tanpa mordan. Kain hasil pewarnaan dievaluasi arah warna, intensitas warna (K/S), dan ketahanan luntur warna. Hasil penelitian menunjukkan arah warna kain rayon dan katun yang lebih bervariasi. Serat rayon memiliki afinitas dan penyerapan yang lebih besar terhadap zat warna limbah cair gambir dan kayu secang dibandingkan dengan serat selulosa. Proses mordan dapat meningkatkan intensitas warna (K/S) dan ketahanan luntur warna terhadap pencucian, keringat asam, gosokan, dan sinar.

Gambier is a potential plant in West Sumatra with production about 17,160 tonnes in 2014. It will be released about 4,290,000 L of unutilized wastewater from that production which is dumped around production area. The wastewater odor is acidic with pH of 3-4 and contaminating the surrounding environment. Tannin content of the wastewater is high enough so it is good to be used as a dye. The research objective was to utilize wastewater of gambir as a dye in some types of batik fabrics. Variations of treatment in this study were 4 types of fabrics: cotton, silk, viscose and dobby, and addition of mordant metal Al2(SO4)3, CaO, and FeSO4. The result showed that the color direction of the fabrics varied from light brown, brown to blackish brown. Viscose fabric provided the highest color strength, followed by dobby fabrics. Silk and cotton fabrics produced non significant color strength. The test results of color fastness to washing in 40°C, light, and rubbing were generally good to excellent value (4-5). Test result of tear strength when compared with fabric blank showed that dyeing with gambir not reduce the fabric tear strength.ABSTRAKGambir merupakan tanaman perkebunan yang cukup banyak di Sumatera Barat dengan produksi tahun 2014 sekitar 17.160 ton. Dari produksi tersebut akan menghasilkan limbah cair sekitar 4.290.000 L yang dibuang di sekitar area produksi dan belum dimanfaatkan. Limbah cair tersebut berbau asam dengan pH 3-4 dan berpotensi mencemari lingkungan sekitarnya. Kandungan tanin dari limbah cair ini cukup tinggi sehingga sangat baik untuk dimanfaatkan sebagai pewarna. Tujuan penelitian adalah memanfaatkan limbah cair gambir sebagai pewarna pada beberapa jenis kain batik. Penelitian ini memvariasikan perlakuan penggunaan 4 jenis kain yaitu kain katun, kain sutera, kain viskos, dan kain dobi, dengan penambahan logam mordan Al2(SO4)3, CaO, dan FeSO4. Hasil penelitian didapatkan arah warna kain bervariasi dari coklat muda, coklat sampai coklat kehitaman. Jenis kain viskos memberikan intensitas warna paling tinggi, diikuti dengan kain dobi. Kain sutera dan kain katun memberikan intensitas yang tidak berbeda nyata. Hasil uji ketahanan luntur warna terhadap pencucian 40oC, sinar matahari, dan gosokan pada umumnya bernilai baik sampai baik sekali (nilai 4-5). Hasil pengujian ketahanan sobek kain bila dibandingkan dengan kain blanko memperlihatkan bahwa pencelupan dengan gambir tidak menurunkan kekuatan sobek kain.

The present study is aimed to explore the dyeing ability of anthraquinone colorants extracted from Rubia cordifolia Lin. roots. Sustainable approach for textile dyeing with a systematic protocol is followed with the effect of AlCl3 and CaCl2 metallic mordants. The optimization of extraction and dyeing conditions was assessed by Reflectance Spectrophotometry. The optimum extraction and dyeing conditions were found to be pH = 2, time = 45 min and temperature 90 °C and pH = 4, time = 90 min and temperature 90 °C respectively. At optimized conditions, dyeing abilities of pre-mordanted with metallic salts as anchoring agent (AlCl3 and CaCl2) were compared. Wool samples dyed with Madder root extract impart radiant red shades with or without mordants having different hue and tones with commercially acceptable colorimetric and fastness properties without sacrificing much of the resources. Effective improvement in color as well as fastness properties was observed using anchoring agents.