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Prolonged observations of fashion students highlighted a limited understanding of garment construction quality, technical knowledge and skills, timescale boundaries, and a lack of confidence to experiment with construction techniques; it was the realisation of these issues which initiated a study to revitalise and enhance sewing skill capability through a purposely designed resource tool. While originally developed to be used by fashion design students the resource tool when fully developed would also be useful for craft dressmakers to develop and enhance their skills and expertise. In the fashion student context an extensive literature review substantiated the observed sewing skills which was also verified by further industry personnel through interviews. While the salient points from the literature review and interviews are given the main purpose of this paper is to outline the development stages of the proposed resource tool which was designed to serve as an aid to revitalise and enhance garment construction knowledge, skills and expertise. The resource samples were inspired by clothing collections held in two UK archives thus offering an opportunity to revitalise some of the more complex construction techniques that are no longer used in modern mainstream fashion. The usefulness of the resource tool is also given along with future developments to improve the system.

At the end of the twentieth century the decline of the domestic knitting craft was of paramount concern to the yarn companies and retailers that served this market sector. As demand reduced in the UK so did the number of specialist retailers. This was as detrimental to the yarn companies as it was to the craft. Research undertaken in 1999 by the author suggests that it is probably true to say that the knitting craft was at that point in time at its lowest point of popularity throughout the entire twentieth century. This paper reports briefly on the reasons behind the rise and fall of the hand knitting craft’s popularity throughout the last century in the UK before focusing on the latter decades in order to expose the factors related to the more serious decline of the craft in the 1990s. It discloses the perceptions of the craft at the end of the century and provides the foundation for the next stage of the research project which will involve an investigation of the craft in the early decades of the twentieth-first century.

Computer control systems, currently available for industrial knitting machines, have been developed by individual machine manufacturers. The result is that each system is applicable only to a particular machine type. This work is aimed toward the determination of a generic control system that could be applied to a wide range of knitting machine types. A model of a knitting needle operation is proposed. This takes the form of a multitape controlling automaton and an operational automaton functioning together. The conformity between the technological functions of the separate parts of knitting machines and the functions of an automaton is determined. Diagrams of states and alphabets of input, stack, and output symbols of an operational automaton are defined. The functioning of this automaton is reduced to the performance of nine operations, which are its system of instructions. This enables the processes of basic structural element formation, i.e., knitted loop, tuck loop, and float, on needles of different types and on knitting machines of various constructions to be modelled uniformly. The model proposed also describes the process of a loop transfer, the new knitted fabric commencing on empty needles and finished fabric press-off. Furthermore, consideration has been given to the operation of a multitape controlling automaton that would be integrated in the design of a knitting machine. An algorithm for output symbol determination has been developed that provides independent automaton control of the number of cam layers, the identification of cam track, and the number of needles in use. The software for minimization of the disjunctive normal form of Boolean functions, based on the methods of Quine and Gorbatov, has been developed. The possibility of modelling knitting machine malfunctions is described, enabling deviations from the correct process, such as hook or latch damage, to be studied.

The actual twist level in the drafting zone of a woolen ring frame is measured and analyzed with respect to false-twist tube speed, roller velocity, draft, deflector rod height, number of agitator pegs, and the presence or absence of the jaw on the base of the false-twist tube. In terms of influence on the drafting twist, the false-twist tube speed, the pegs, the jaw, and the draft are positive factors, while the deflector rod and front roller velocity are negative factors. An empirical equation is produced to relate drafting twist level to spinning variables, and deficiencies are shown for two earlier equations. A further study is made of the effect of various mechanical parameters on the spinning performance and yarn properties for a number of wool blends. For the sake of brevity, only one parameter is discussed in this paper.

This paper considers the compression properties of yarns. A model is proposed which predicts the behaviour of yarns in compression; the model takes account of the structural characteristics of yarns and the finite dimensions of fibres. A device is described which has been successfully used to measure the effects of compression forces on the dimensions of yarn cross-sections.A comparison between the theoretical behaviour of yarns and experimental results demonstrates the good predictive ability of the theory.

This is the second part of a two-part series. It introduces a method for simulating a two-component yarn based on the compression model described in Part I. A quadrilateral mesh is employed to generate the over-all yarn appearance from a wire-frame model with texturing and light reflection applied to the surface. Comparison with other simulated yarns using different models and with real yarns show that the simulated yarns using the method described in this paper are more accurate and yield an improved visual representation of real yarns.

This paper considers the distribution of fibres in yarns and discusses the development of a model for the simulation of fibre distributions; the concept of ‘virtual location’ within the cross-section domain, which may contain a fibre, is introduced. The distribution of fibres in real yarns is compared with computer-generated distributions. The distributions predicted by using the model demonstrate all of the properties of the real yarns considered.The change in the fibre distribution caused by compressive forces is considered, and a model to describe the behaviour of real yarns is proposed.

Colour forecasting is a process where attempts are made to accurately forecast colour for fashion-related products that consumers will purchase in the near future, usually two years ahead. Seasonal colours are recognised as a powerful driver of sales. Currently trend forecasts are marketed and sold globally. The information is broad and generalised and does not take into account colour preferences. In the study the anticipation of consumer acceptance was identified as the weakness of the process and an improved system model was developed replacing the anticipation stage with consumer colour acceptance data. The improved model is considered highly beneficial for fashion-related industries to adopt in order to increase their competitiveness in the global market and to assist waste reduction (unwanted products) that impact on the environment. In this paper the development of the two models is presented and discussed in an attempt to purposely promote the usefulness of soft systems methodology for design research.

More than ten years ago, a Guardian columnist observed a growth in the charity shop sector due to an increase in the number of such outlets on the high streets of towns and cities in the UK. The Guardian more recently reported on a new charity store image evidenced by brand-new charity fashion boutiques being launched by Oxfam in London. This new mode of charity store sold selected re-styled and re-designed items created by young designers from the London College of Fashion. The article stated that ‘the charity was taking its first step towards a more fashion-conscious image: away from the slightly battered shoes and oversize floral skirts it's known for and into the world of designer one-offs and couture accessories’ (Freeman, 2008). It is unquestionable that charity shops have the potential to offer good value fashion to people on a budget as well as attracting fashion-conscious customers. However, if the charity shop is to make the most of this opportunity then certain retail practices are in need of change. The aim of this research was to explore the current trend of UK charity retailers upgrading towards a new target market through the launching of specialist fashion stores and to examine effective strategies for charity shops to achieve up-market fashion retailing. Three retail models from the literature review were used and the research makes use of illustrated visual evidences to demonstrate the performance of charity shops compared to up-market fashion stores. Structured observations, photography and semi-structured interviews were used to develop a new ‘Mannequin Model’ to provide a strategy for charity shops wanting to move into the mid-upper levels of the fashion market. A synthesis representation of localisation and specialisation was found to have potential for launching a specialist fashion outlet in the charity retail sector.

Colour forecasting is a process where attempts are made to accurately forecast colour for fashion-related products that consumers will purchase in the near future. Seasonal colours are recognised as a powerful driving force of fashion-related products and consumer research of desires and preferences has become an important integral part of design and marketing processes. Trend forecasts are marketed globally by forecast companies to many fashion-related industries in order to increase their market coverage. They do not take into account colour acceptance levels of target markets on which fashion-related industries focus their design and marketing efforts. The information they sell is broad and generalised, even so, they claim to aim for 80% accuracy in their predictions. In a previous study, the anticipation of consumer acceptance was identified as the weakness of the current colour forecasting process. An improved system model, which replaced the anticipation stage with consumer colour acceptance data was conceptually developed and tested. In order to generate sales on the high street, this improved process requires accurate knowledge of consumer colour acceptance which would entail additional cost and time for the fashion industry to implement. It is therefore critical for a tool to be made available that does this part of the process for them. Hence, this research proposes to establish a framework necessary to develop and provide such a colour selection tool that will enable the users of colour forecasting information to generate colour ranges for their products that will have greater consumer acceptance. The tool will enable fashion companies to take control of their own colour forecasting process through the colour selections they make for their ranges. Essentially the tool will benefit the UK fashion industry’s competitiveness in the global market and assist waste reduction (unwanted goods) that impact on the environment.

Brazilian Portuguese is the Portuguese spoken in Brazil, which has slight differences from the Portuguese spoken in Portugal. One may try to understand such differences by comparing them with the dissimilarities between the American English and the British English. Although this article does not intend to establish potential differences between Brazilian Portuguese and Portuguese spoken in other countries, such as Portugal, it is important to bear in mind that divergences in meaning of words for Design in Portuguese in different places may happen, following the historical, cultural, social and economic concerns of each place.\ud Words for design in Brazilian Portuguese are rich in diversity. Naturally, the multiplicity of words has similarities in their denotative meanings, and some of these words are synonyms. Each particular meaning may be considered complementary to another for a closer understanding of what the English term means, for there is no single Brazilian Portuguese word which would translate the complexity of the word design in a precise and succinct way. This is perhaps the main reason why the English word design is largely adopted in Brazil.

Colour therapy is a vibrational medicine based on Einsteinian and Quantum Physics theories using colour vibrational energies to rebalance the body’s subtle energies to create states of holistic well-being. It is thought that vibrational medicines affect the resonation of the body’s cells and organs through the body’s ability to absorb and emit electromagnetic energies through the skin. In epidemiological studies the effects of these invisible energies, environmental electromagnetic energies and nutritional and chemical changes in the body and are of particular research interest (Gerber1). Positive energies are considered to work in harmony with the body. However there are harmful energies, or negative energies that create imbalances which are thought to result in physical illness. Also when the body is subjected to prolonged and excessive amounts of a frequency it is thought to eventual act as a negative energy (a type of electromagnetic pollution) first affecting psychological and emotional health followed by physical illness or disease (dis-ease). The application of coloured fabrics to the skin is a method used to allow the body to absorb the required frequency to rebalance the energy system. Given that the colour frequencies of fabrics can be used to alter energies to heal the body then it must be possible for the reverse to happen. This paper contemplates vibrational energy theories in relation clothing to support the hypothesis that the colours we wear may affect our health.

Colour therapy is a popular ancient healing art that makes use of colour vibrational energies to balance and harmonise the body’s subtle energies and physical organs in order to create a state of holistic well-being and good health. Vibrational medicine uses Einsteinian and Quantum Physics theories, which considers the human body to be a dynamic energy system. Vibrational medicines are thought to work through the body’s ability to absorb and emit energies through the skin and affecting the resonation of its cells and organs. Suppressed negative energy is thought to eventually transpire as an emotional dysfunction which in turn further transpires into a physical disorder (dis-ease). Negative energies are considered to be toxic in nature and akin to other harmful radiations such as those emitted from electrical appliances. These invisible electromagnetic frequencies are the subject of epidemiological studies and include imbalances or blockages to the human energy system caused by the affects of nutritional and chemical changes and electromagnetic tensions from the environment (Gerber, R, 2000). Energies that work in harmony with the body are considered to be positive, whereas negative energies and excesses of energy frequencies create imbalances in the human energy system resulting in illness. Negative energies therefore need to be released and the energy system replenished with positive energies. Given that frequencies of colour are thought to have the potential to rebalance the energy system, by introducing energies that the system is lacking or by dissipating excess energies; and that coloured fabrics act as colour filters, then it is possible that the colours we wear affect our health. This paper considers the theories of colour as a vibrational energy and its potential to affect our physical and emotional health through the proximity of the colours we wear.

Gives a review of the various methods which have been developed to measure the stiffness of fabric and describes a new method. This new approach enables the testing of knitted fabrics which are difficult to test using the cantilever system. The inter‐operative reproducibility of the new instrument is compared with that of the cantilever method and the drape meter. Also reports inter‐laboratory comparisons on woven fabric and on knitted fabric, the latter having been measured on a KES‐F system.

Previous studies have shown that preen wax composition in some sandpipers shifts from the usual monoesters to diesters during the breeding season, possibly to reduce the ability of mammalian predators to find nests using olfactory cues. To investigate further the relationship between incubation and wax secretion, we examined seven sandpiper species with different incubation patterns (species in which both sexes incubate, in which only males incubate and in which only females incubate). During the breeding period, diester preen wax was secreted almost exclusively by the incubating sex in species with uniparental incubation, and by both sexes in species with biparental incubation. These findings suggest that diester preen waxes have a function that is directly related to incubation. Unexpectedly, in female-incubating Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea and Buff-breasted Sandpiper Tryngites subruficollis, some males also secreted diester preen waxes during the breeding period. This suggests that some males may in fact incubate, that these waxes may be a remnant from their evolutionary past when both sexes incubated, or that males need to be olfactorally cryptic because they are involved in the making of nest scrapes. The seasonal pattern of preen wax composition was also studied in captive male, female and female-mimicking male ('faeder') Ruff Philomachus pugnax. Captive female Ruff changed preen wax composition from monoesters to diesters in the spring despite the fact that no incubation took place. This suggests that circannual rhythms rather than actual incubation behaviour may trigger the shift to diester waxes. All captive male Ruff, including the faeders, continued to secrete monoesters, supporting the hypothesis that only the incubating sex secretes diesters.

This thesis investigates the current Navy and DOD policies regarding the Navy Family Housing and Variable Housing Allowance (VHA) programs. The study involved; (1) a comparison of civilian and Navy standards of adequacy for family housing; (2) an examination of the VHA rate production process, and (3) an analysis of Navy standards of adequacy for family housing and the ability of VHA to provide service members the opportunity to obtain civilian housing which meets those standards of adequacy. This study concludes that the VHA program does not ensure that service members relying on the civilian community have the opportunity to obtain family housing that meets the Navy's standards of adequacy. Recommendations are made to change this condition, and, thereby, create equal housing opportunities for families living both on-and off-base. http://archive.org/details/navyfamilyhousin1094543781 Lieutenant, United States Navy Approved for public release; distribution is unlimited.