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International audience

International audience

Pendant un large XIXe siècle (1780-1930), les petites industries dispersées, très différentes de l'artisanat, rassemblent la multitude des établissements employant moins de cent ouvriers sur un même site et capables de produire en grande quantité des objets manufacturés complets destinés à des marchés éloignés. Selon ces critères, des secteurs entiers s'appuient sur de telles structures éclatées de production : la taillanderie, la coutellerie, l'horlogerie, les articles de Paris, les scieries, l'ébénisterie, la chapellerie, la confection, la mode, les chaussures, les bouchonneries, voire une partie des industries agroalimentaires, puis les cycles, l'automobile et l'aviation etc. Ces branches contribuent majoritairement aux excellentes performances des économies française, suisse et suédoise, aussi bien à l'exportation qu'en terme de productivité. La compétitivité de ces nébuleuses d'ateliers et de travailleurs à domicile repose sur des facteurs classiques comme l'abaissement de certains salaires, la division extrême du travail, la mécanisation partielle et une terrible sélection naturelle ; mais il existe aussi toute une dynamique sociale spécifique aux très petites entreprises. En premier lieu figure l'espoir d'ascension sociale qu'elles suscitent au sein d'un vivier de " micro-patrons ", constamment renouvelé depuis l'abolition des corporations, et jamais découragé par les vagues de faillites qui le frappent régulièrement. À cela s'ajoutent un paternalisme de proximité, un encastrement dans la société locale et une conscience de place qui retardent et complexifient les conflits sociaux. Au final, d'importantes régions de France, de Suisse et de Suède s'industrialisent différemment et très tôt, sans grandes usines, dès la première moitié du XIXe siècle. Mieux encore, les structures éclatées de production mises en évidence dans ces trois pays participent activement aux révolutions industrielles dans lesquelles sont réemployés leurs savoir-faire accumulés et préservés. En effet, la capacité d'innovation et la réactivité aux évolutions du marché mondial caractérisent souvent les petites industries dispersées quand elles conservent leur indépendance et ne cèdent pas à la tentation de la sous-traitance.

International audience

International audience

The aim of this work is the analysis of selected online store. The introduction describes the possibilities of the Internet for marketing and online marketing mix. The next chapter describes selected products and the biggest online perfume sellers in the Czech Republic. In the fourth chapter is analyzed in detail a specific marketing of selected store.

International audience

International audience

International audience

International audience

International audience

International audience

Depuis 5000 ans au moins, la parfumerie a suscité la création de vastes réseaux de communication et leur maintien, envers et contre toutes les difficultés, techniques, économiques ou politiques. Paradoxalement, elle est restée, dans son essence même, très extérieure à la révolution des moyens de communication qui a bouleversé ce siècle. Ce paradoxe nous permettra de faire une relecture anthropologique de l'histoire des parfums et d'aborder quelques-uns des problèmes de communication sur lesquels butte la parfumerie moderne.

International audience

International audience

Le xixe siècle marque l’émergence de la figure du parfumeur au sein des notabilités parisiennes, où il incarne l’image d’une réussite aussi rapide que spectaculaire. Le marché de la parfumerie connaît en effet à cette époque une croissance que l’on peut légitimement placer à l’origine de ces représentations. En retraçant les parcours des plus éminents d’entre eux, nous nous proposons de mettre plus précisément en évidence les facteurs de l’acquisition de ce statut de notables, et d’examiner en quoi la mise en œuvre de stratégies commerciales originales, dans un contexte d’industrialisation du secteur et d’accroissement des marges, apparaît au fondement de la réussite sociale de la profession. Nineteenth-century Paris saw the emergence of perfumers as members of the notabilities, becoming the emblems of a success which was both rapid and spectacular. Indeed the perfumery market then faced such a growth that we can find here the origins of these representations. Basing our analyses on the career of the most successful of the perfumers, we intend to highlight more precisely the factors that led them to acquire this status of notables, and to examine how original commercial strategies, in a context of industrialisation and of a rise of the margins, also appeared as the foundation of the social success of this profession.

International audience

The West Indian bay-tree, or Pimenta racemosa (P. Miller) J.W. Moore, Myrtaceae, is an aromatic plant native of the Caribbean islands and surrounding coastal regions. Its leaves and berries are used as spices. Bay oil, an essential oil extracted from its leaves, has long been used in perfumes and the cosmetics industry. Bay rum, a spirit, is applied locally as a tonic and antirheumatic lotion. We have made an overview of the known botanical, phytoecological, chemical, biological, pharmacological, and toxicological properties of Pimenta racemosa and its essential oil. The abundance of this plant, even in the wild, and its enormous potential should be taken into account when developing new approaches to enhance its economic value., Le bois d'Inde, Pimenta racemosa (P. Miller) J.W. Moore, Myrtacées, est une plante aromatique originaire des îles et régions continentales du bassin caribéen. Ses feuilles et ses baies sont employées comme épices. L'huile essentielle extraite des feuilles, connue sous les noms d'essence de bois d'Inde ou d'huile essentielle de bay, est depuis longtemps utilisée comme matière première de l'industrie de la parfumerie et de la cosmétologie. Un alcoolat, le bay-rhum, a un usage local comme lotion tonique et antirhumatismale. Une mise au point concernant les connaissances botanique, phytoécologique, chimique, biologique, pharmacologique et toxicologique de Pimenta racemosa et de son huile essentielle est réalisée. Ses potentialités et son abondance, même à l'état spontané, sont des arguments à prendre en compte pour de nouvelles perspectives de valorisation économique., Bourgeois Paul. Une plante aromatique de la Caraïbe : le bois d'Inde. In: Journal d'agriculture traditionnelle et de botanique appliquée, 37ᵉ année, bulletin n°1,1995. pp. 139-149.

The Tropical America Wood Trade. Toward 1500, the Portugese admiral, P.A. Cabrai, was the first explorer to reach South America, from where he brought back the first shipment of wood. This began with Europe the trade of dye and tannin, wood for the perfume industry, cabinet making, marquetry and also lumber. In spite of this, the part taken by commercial wood in the annual world export between Tropical America and Europe has remained very low, less than live per cent., Vers 1500, l'amiral portugais P. A. Cabrai a été le premier à atteindre l'Amérique du Sud d'où il rapporta un premier chargement de bois. Ainsi, a commencé le trafic avec l'Europe des bois de teinture, à tanin, pour la parfumerie, d'ébénisterie et de marqueterie et enfin des bois d'oeuvre. Malgré cela, la part de l'Amérique tropicale avec l'Europe, dans l'exportation mondiale annuelle des bois commerciaux est restée très faible : moins de 5 %., Normand Didier. Le commerce des bois d'Amérique tropicale. In: Cahiers d'outre-mer. N° 179-180 - 45e année, Juillet-décembre 1992. Les plantes américaines à la conquête du monde, sous la direction de Yves Monnier et Alain Huetz de Lemps. pp. 249-261.

Dans un contexte d'extension rapide de l'usage des produits de parfumerie a des fractions nouvelles de la population, la question des elegances olfactives des elites urbaines du Paris du XIX e siecle pose le double probleme de sa diffusion sociale et de la redistribution des regles du bon gout olfactif. Facteur de la construction sociale de soi, le parfum intervient a la fois comme element de l'affirmation d'un rang et comme principe d'expression de l'intimite. Comment des lors satisfaire a l'imperatif d'ostentation propre aux exigences d'un rang en un siecle de democratisation rapide du produit qui en est l'agent? Et quels enjeux differents la sphere de l'intimite ou s'exprime des lors plus naturellement le parfum cristallise-telle parallelement? Dans cet article, nous verrons comment les regles de l'elegance olfactive et la diffusion sociale des modes au XIX e siecle confinent de maniere preferentielle l'expression du parfum a la sphere de l'intimite ou il participe a plusieurs egards de la construction de la feminite.

International audience

A general picture of toxicological approach and practical aspects of cosmetic safety is described in this thesis. Such considerations are the basis for introducing negative and positive lists of cosmetic ingredients into cosmetic legislation. The first Dutch Cosmetic Act of 1968 already has several of these lists, but no analytical methods were given to control these lists. Therefore a study has been started with the aim to make analytical market surveys of several classes of potentially risk-bearing compounds. The analytical experience gained in the study can be used for the developments of official methods for the Dutch Cosmetic Act. The results of these market surveys can moreover be used as information on the actual use of risk-bearing compounds and will therefore contribute to the establishment of sound and significant cosmetic legislation in the Netherlands.Eye make-up colours were identified by a set of characteristic reactions. Lipstick colours were identified by wellknown chromategraphic methods. Colour intermediates for the oxidative hair colouring were identified by two-dimensional thin- layer chromatography. The aromatic amines were confirmed by direct gaschromatographic analysis which permitted quantitative determination. A separation of phenolic intermediates by means of gaschromatography is also described. Suntan preparations were analysed for the presence of UV-absorbers, browning agents and local anesthesics. A simple aerosol sampling method, prior to gaschromatographic analysis was developed, thus permitting a total analysis of propellants and solvents in single-phase aerosols within an hour. Hormonal substances were detected in selected samples by chromatographic methods. These chemical findings supported the results of the biological assay for the detection of oestrogenic and androgenic activity of cosmetic products. Finally antimicrobial compounds were analysed in many kinds of cosmetic products, in which they were used for preservation or for its deodorizing, antidandruff or antiseptic actions. The diversity in chemical structure did not allow the development of universal methods, but most of the compounds could be identified and determined by chromatographic methods. Formaldehyde was determined by fluorometry. A study of the stability of formaldehyde releasing substances is presented.

A general picture of toxicological approach and practical aspects of cosmetic safety is described in this thesis. Such considerations are the basis for introducing negative and positive lists of cosmetic ingredients into cosmetic legislation. The first Dutch Cosmetic Act of 1968 already has several of these lists, but no analytical methods were given to control these lists. Therefore a study has been started with the aim to make analytical market surveys of several classes of potentially risk-bearing compounds. The analytical experience gained in the study can be used for the developments of official methods for the Dutch Cosmetic Act. The results of these market surveys can moreover be used as information on the actual use of risk-bearing compounds and will therefore contribute to the establishment of sound and significant cosmetic legislation in the Netherlands.Eye make-up colours were identified by a set of characteristic reactions. Lipstick colours were identified by wellknown chromategraphic methods. Colour intermediates for the oxidative hair colouring were identified by two-dimensional thin- layer chromatography. The aromatic amines were confirmed by direct gaschromatographic analysis which permitted quantitative determination. A separation of phenolic intermediates by means of gaschromatography is also described. Suntan preparations were analysed for the presence of UV-absorbers, browning agents and local anesthesics. A simple aerosol sampling method, prior to gaschromatographic analysis was developed, thus permitting a total analysis of propellants and solvents in single-phase aerosols within an hour. Hormonal substances were detected in selected samples by chromatographic methods. These chemical findings supported the results of the biological assay for the detection of oestrogenic and androgenic activity of cosmetic products. Finally antimicrobial compounds were analysed in many kinds of cosmetic products, in which they were used for preservation or for its deodorizing, antidandruff or antiseptic actions. The diversity in chemical structure did not allow the development of universal methods, but most of the compounds could be identified and determined by chromatographic methods. Formaldehyde was determined by fluorometry. A study of the stability of formaldehyde releasing substances is presented.

Volatile constituents of white bread were investigated. Different methods were used for isolating and concentrating components to avoid artefacts as far as possible. Especially good was enlarged vapour analysis. Ninety-four components were identified, including hydrocarbons, alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, acids, esters as well as nitrogen, sulphur and miscellaneous compounds. The concentration of the main components in the vapour above white bread was determined by direct vapour analysis. The odour threshold values of these components in aqueous solution were determined, and the odour values calculated as the ratio of concentration to odour threshold value to estimate their contribution to the total odour. The Maillard reaction of the cysteine/cystine-ribose system was investigated in a search for components which can be expected in heat-processed food products, and to find out whether during this reaction compounds possessing bread-like odours were formed. Forty-five components were identified, including thiophenes, thiazoles, thiols, pyrazines, pyrroles, amines, furans, aldehydes, ketones and miscellaneous compounds. Possible pathways for the formation of 2-acylthiazoles and of 3-methyl, and 5-methyl substituted 2-formylthiophenes are proposed.

Volatile constituents of white bread were investigated. Different methods were used for isolating and concentrating components to avoid artefacts as far as possible. Especially good was enlarged vapour analysis. Ninety-four components were identified, including hydrocarbons, alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, acids, esters as well as nitrogen, sulphur and miscellaneous compounds. The concentration of the main components in the vapour above white bread was determined by direct vapour analysis. The odour threshold values of these components in aqueous solution were determined, and the odour values calculated as the ratio of concentration to odour threshold value to estimate their contribution to the total odour. The Maillard reaction of the cysteine/cystine-ribose system was investigated in a search for components which can be expected in heat-processed food products, and to find out whether during this reaction compounds possessing bread-like odours were formed. Forty-five components were identified, including thiophenes, thiazoles, thiols, pyrazines, pyrroles, amines, furans, aldehydes, ketones and miscellaneous compounds. Possible pathways for the formation of 2-acylthiazoles and of 3-methyl, and 5-methyl substituted 2-formylthiophenes are proposed.