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Glyceryl monooleate (GMO) is a polar lipid that can exist in various liquid crystalline phases in the presence of different amounts of water. It is regarded as a permeation enhancer due to its amphiphilic property. Various phases of GMO/solvent system containing sodium fluorescein were prepared to compare permeability using confocal laser scanning microscopy (CLSM). GMO was melted in a vial in a water bath heated to 45 °C. Propylene glycol and hexanediol were homogeneously dissolved in the melted GMO. Sodium fluorescein in aqueous solution was diluted to various ratios and thoroughly mixed by an ultrasonic homogenizer. Each GMO/Solvent system with fluorescein was applied onto the epidermal side of excised pig skin and incubated overnight. CLSM was performed to observe how the GMO/solvent system in its different phases affect skin permeability. Cubic and lamellar phase formulations enhanced the fluorescein permeation through the stratum corneum. A solution system had the weakest permeability compared to the other two phases. Due to the amphiphilic nature of GMO, cubic and lamellar phases might reduce the barrier function of stratum corneum which was observed by CLSM as fluorescein accumulated in the dermis. Based on the results, the glyceryl monooleate lyotropic mixtures could be applied to enhance skin permeation in various topical and transdermal formulations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Platycladus orientalis is a traditional oriental herbal medicinal plant that is widely used as a component of complex prescriptions for alopecia treatment in Eastern Asia. The effect of PO on hair growth and its underlying mechanism, however, have not been demonstrated or clarified. In this study, we investigated the hair-growth-promoting effect of PO in cultured human dermal papilla cells (hDPCs). Platycladus orientalis leaf extract (POLE) was found to stimulate the proliferation of hDPCs. POLE with higher quercitrin concentration, especially, showed a high level of cellular viability. In the context of cellular senescence, POLE decreased the expression of p16 (CDKN2A) and p21(CDKN1A), which resulted in enhanced proliferation. In addition, growth factor receptors, FGFR1 and VEGFR2/3, and non-receptor tyrosine kinases, ACK1 and HCK, were significantly activated. In addition, LEF1, a transcription factor of Wnt/β-catenin signaling, was enhanced, but DKK1, an inhibitor of Wnt/β-catenin signaling, was downregulated by POLE treatment in cultured hDPCs. As a consequence, the expression of growth factors such as bFGF, KGF, and VEGF were also increased by POLE. We further investigated the hair-growth-promoting effect of topically administered POLE over a 12-week period. Our data suggest that POLE could support terminal hair growth by stimulating proliferation of DPCs and that enhanced production of growth factors, especially KGF, occurred as a result of tyrosine kinase ACK1 activation.

Abstract Background Bacterial extracellular vesicles (EVs) are pivotal mediators of intercellular communication and influence host cell biology, thereby contributing to the pathogenesis of infections. Despite their significance, the precise effects of bacterial EVs on the host cells remain poorly understood. This study aimed to elucidate ultrastructural changes in host cells upon infection with EVs derived from a pathogenic bacterium, Staphylococcus aureus (S. aureus). Results Using super-resolution fluorescence microscopy and high-voltage electron microscopy, we investigated the nanoscale alterations in mitochondria, endoplasmic reticulum (ER), Golgi apparatus, lysosomes, and microtubules of skin cells infected with bacterial EVs. Our results revealed significant mitochondrial fission, loss of cristae, transformation of the ER from tubular to sheet-like structures, and fragmentation of the Golgi apparatus in cells infected with S. aureus EVs, in contrast to the negligible effects observed following S. epidermidis EV infection, probably due to the pathogenic factors in S. aureus EV, including protein A and enterotoxin. These findings indicate that bacterial EVs, particularly those from pathogenic strains, induce profound ultrastructural changes of host cells that can disrupt cellular homeostasis and contribute to infection pathogenesis. Conclusions This study advances the understanding of bacterial EV-host cell interactions and contributes to the development of new diagnostic and therapeutic strategies for bacterial infections.

The healing process after acne lesion extraction provides a miniature model to study skin wound repair mechanisms. In this study, we aimed to identify solutions for acne scars that frequently occur on our faces. We performed acne scar cytokine profiling and found that Interleukin 8 (IL8) and Tissue inhibitor of metalloproteinases 2 (TIMP2) were significant factors at the wounded site. The effect of chlorogenic acid and taurine on human epidermal cells and irritated human skin was investigated. Chlorogenic acid and taurine regulated IL8 and TIMP2 expression and accelerated keratinocyte proliferation. Moreover, tight junction protein expression was upregulated by chlorogenic acid and taurine synergistically. Further, these compounds modulated the expression of several inflammatory cytokines (IL1α, IL1β, and IL6) and skin hydration related factor (hyaluronan synthase 3; HAS3). Thus, chlorogenic acid and taurine may exert their effects during the late stages of wound healing rather than the initial phase. In vivo experiments using SLS-induced wounds demonstrated the efficacy of chlorogenic acid and taurine treatment compared to natural healing, reduced erythema, and restored barrier function. Skin ultrasound analysis revealed their potential to promote denser skin recovery. Therefore, the wound-restoring effect of chlorogenic acid and taurine was exerted by suppression of inflammatory cytokines, and induction of cell proliferation, tight junction expression, and remodeling factors.

Skin radiance is crucial for enhancing facial attractiveness and is negatively affected by factors like hyperpigmentation and aging-related changes. Current treatments often lack comprehensive solutions for improving skin radiance. This study aimed to develop a cosmetic formula that enhances skin radiance by reducing hyperpigmentation and improving skin regeneration by targeting specific receptors—the endothelin receptor type B (EDNRB) for hyperpigmentation and the adiponectin receptor 1 (ADIPOR1) for sagging and wrinkles. To achieve this, we used artificial intelligence technologies to screen and select ingredients with an affinity for EDNRB and ADIPOR1. Vitamin B12 (VitB12) was identified as a molecule that targets EDNRB, which is involved in melanogenesis. Adenosine triphosphate (ATP) targets ADIPOR1, which is associated with skin regeneration. VitB12 successfully inhibited intracellular calcium elevation and melanogenesis induced by endothelin-1. In contrast, ATP increased the mRNA expression of collagen and elastin and promoted wound healing. Moreover, the VitB12 and ATP complex significantly increased the expression of hyaluronan synthases, which are crucial for skin hydration. Furthermore, in human participants, the application of the VitB12 and ATP complex to one-half of the face significantly improved skin radiance, elasticity, and texture. Our findings provide valuable insights for the development of skincare formulations.

Skin aging is a complex process with internal and external factors. Recent studies have suggested that enlargement and elongation of skin pores may be early signs of aging in addition to wrinkles and loss of elasticity. This study explores the potential of targeting the SGPP2 gene in keratinocytes to address these emerging concerns. Using siRNA knockdown, we demonstrated that SGPP2 modulates the production of inflammatory cytokines (interleukin (IL)-1β and IL-8). Furthermore, conditioned media experiments revealed that keratinocytes with high SGPP2 expression indirectly influence fibroblast extracellular matrix remodeling, potentially contributing to enlarged pores and wrinkle formation. Based on these findings, we explored a complex formulation containing four SGPP2-modulating compounds. In vitro and in vivo experiments demonstrated the efficacy of the formulation in mitigating fine wrinkles and pore enlargement. This study highlights the significant implications of developing a more effective antiaging cosmetic formulation by targeting underlying inflammatory processes that drive skin aging.

Skin barrier dysfunction and thin epidermis are hallmarks of sensitive skin and contribute to premature aging. Avenanthramides are the primary bioactive components of colloidal oatmeal, a commonly used treatment to enhance skin barrier function. This study investigated the relationship between skin barrier function and epidermal characteristics and explored the potential of dihydroavenanthramide D (dhAvD), a synthetic avenanthramide, to improve the skin barrier. We observed a significant correlation between impaired skin barrier function and decreased epidermal thickness, suggesting that a weakened barrier contributes to increased sensitivity. Our in vitro results in HaCaT cells demonstrated that dhAvD enhances keratinocyte proliferation, migration, and tight junction protein expression, thereby strengthening the skin barrier. To mimic skin barrier dysfunction, we treated keratinocytes and full-thickness skin equivalents with IL-4 and IL-13, cytokines that are implicated in atopic dermatitis, and confirmed the downregulation of tight junction and differentiation markers. Furthermore, dhAvD treatment restored the barrier function and normalized the expression of key epidermal components, such as tight junction proteins and natural moisturizing factors, in keratinocytes treated with inflammatory cytokines. In the reconstructed human skin model, dhAvD promoted both epidermal and dermal restoration. These findings suggest that dhAvD has the potential to alleviate skin sensitivity and improve skin barrier function.

Skin aging is an unavoidable natural phenomenon caused by intrinsic and extrinsic factors. In modern society, the pursuit of a wrinkle-free and aesthetically appealing face has gained considerable prominence. Numerous studies have aimed at mitigating the appearance of facial wrinkles. Antiaging research focused on regulating the function of mitochondria, the main reactive oxygen species-generating organelles, has been extensively conducted. In this study, we investigated the correlation between facial wrinkles and the expression of PPARGC1B, considering the association of this gene with mitochondrial function, to identify its potential as a target for exploring antiaging cosmetic materials. We elucidated the role of PPARGC1B in the skin and identified five bioactive materials that modulated its expression. The effectiveness of these materials was verified through in vitro experiments on human dermal fibroblasts. We prepared cosmetic formulations incorporating the five materials and confirmed their ability to enhance dermal collagen in three-dimensional skin models and reduce facial wrinkles under the eyes and nasolabial fold areas in human subjects. The study findings have significant implications for developing novel antiaging cosmetic formulations by reinforcing mitochondrial functions.

The fungi and bacteria on the human scalp play important roles in both health and disease. Scalp biofilms have pathogenic effects on cutaneous tissues, such as seborrheic dermatitis. However, investigations into scalp biofilms and their physiological effects on scalp skin are limited. In this study, we suggest an evaluation method through which the scalp is stained a reddish color using erythrosine to visualize scalp biofilms, which strongly depends on the presence of bacteria and fungi. We found that the physiological properties of the scalp significantly differed between high and low levels of stained red areas (sRAs) on the scalp. The sRA levels showed a strong positive correlation with IL-8 levels and sebum production. It is worth noting that the production of sebum has a dominant effect on the scalp microbiome via the growth of microbes, leading to the formation of a biofilm, as evidenced by changes in the sRA levels. Furthermore, the sRA levels could be reduced through the use of antimicrobial agents, such as climbazole and hexamidine diisethionate (HD), as well as the manipulation of the physical properties of the scrubs used in scalp care products. These scalp care products could potentially disrupt the formation and accumulation of a biofilm on the scalp, providing strong evidence for the importance of considering the scalp microbiome and its interactions with sebum in the development of biofilms. Consequently, we suggested that the administration of anti-microbial agents, such as climbazole and HD, could be an effective strategy to alleviate biofilm accumulation for the maintenance of scalp health.

The oculocutaneous albinism II (OCA2) gene encodes a melanosomal transmembrane protein involved in melanogenesis. Recent genome-wide association studies have identified several single nucleotide polymorphisms within OCA2 genes that are involved in skin pigmentation. Nevertheless, there have been no attempts to modulate this gene to improve skin discoloration. Accordingly, our aim was to identify compounds that can reduce OCA2 expression and to develop a formula that can improve skin brightness and reduce hyperpigmented spots. In this study, we investigated the effects of OCA2 expression reduction on melanin levels, melanosome pH, and autophagy induction through siRNA knockdown. Additionally, we identified several bioactives that effectively reduce OCA2 expression. Ultimately, in a clinical trial, we demonstrated that topical application of those compounds significantly improved skin tone and dark spots compared to vitamin C, a typical brightening agent. These findings demonstrate that OCA2 is a promising target for the development of efficacious cosmetics and therapeutics designed to treat hyperpigmentation.

Nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD+) is indispensable for the regulation of biological metabolism. Previous studies have revealed its role in aging and degenerative diseases, while crucially showing that supplementation with NAD+ or its precursors could ameliorate or reverse the progression of aging. Despite extensive evidence for the role and action of NAD+ in aging, its pharmacological activity on the skin, or even its mechanism, has not been elucidated. In this study, we established a novel approach to effectively utilize NAD+ for skin anti-aging by enhancing the pharmacological efficacy of exogenous NAD+ using a phytochemical complex consisting of quercetin, and enoxolone through inhibition of CD38. Through the comprehensive in vitro experiments based on human fibroblasts, we observed that exogenous NAD+ could exert protective effects against both extrinsic aging induced by ultraviolet light exposure and intrinsic aging. Additionally, we found that its effects were significantly boosted by quercetin and enoxolone. In this in-depth study, we demonstrated that these beneficial effects are mediated by improved sirtuin activation, autophagy, and mitochondrial functionality. Our approach is expected to verify the applicability of the topical application of NAD+ and offer more effective solutions for the unmet needs of patients and consumers who demand more effective anti-aging effects.

Abnormal inactivation of the Wnt/β-catenin signaling pathway is involved in skin diseases like androgenetic alopecia, vitiligo and canities, but small-molecule activators are rarely described. In this study, we investigated the stimulatory effects of escin on the canonical Wnt/β-catenin signaling pathway in cultured human dermal papilla cells (hDPCs). Escin stimulated Wnt/β-catenin signaling, resulting in increased β-catenin and lymphoid enhancer-binding factor 1 (LEF1), the accumulation of nuclear β-catenin and the enhanced expression of Wnt target genes in cultured hDPCs. Escin drastically reduced the protein level of glycogen synthase kinase (GSK)-3β, a key regulator of the Wnt/β-catenin signaling pathway, while the presence of the proteasome inhibitor MG-132 fully restored the GSK-3β protein level. The treatment of secreted frizzled-related proteins (sFRPs) 1 and 2 attenuated the activity of escin in Wnt reporter assays. Our data demonstrate that escin is a natural agonist of the canonical Wnt/β-catenin signaling pathway and downregulates GSK-3β protein expression by facilitating the proteasomal degradation of GSK-3β in cultured hDPCs. Our data suggest that escin likely stimulates Wnt signaling through direct interactions with frizzled receptors. This study underscores the therapeutic potential of escin for Wnt-related diseases such as androgenetic alopecia, vitiligo and canities.

L-ascorbic acid (AA), a potent antioxidant, is commonly used topically in the pharmaceutical and cosmetic fields. However, the incorporation of AA into topical formulations is difficult because of its highly unstable nature and relatively poor skin permeability. In this study, we propose an alternative strategy for improving the solubility and topical delivery of AA through its conversion to a therapeutic deep eutectic system (THEDES). AA and betaine (Bet)-based THEDESs were prepared at certain molar ratios and characterized using polarized optical microscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, and differential scanning calorimetry. Solubility tests showed that AA in the form of THEDES was readily soluble in various polyols (glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and 1,3-propanediol) at a high concentration (approximately 40%). Furthermore, compared to AA alone or the physical mixture of AA and Bet, AA-based THEDES significantly enhanced AA delivery through porcine skin. In an in vivo human study, THEDES-containing serum reduced the markers of aging and induced an even skin tone. These findings indicate the utility of AA and Bet-based THEDES as novel transdermal delivery systems for AA. Furthermore, our approach also showed good extension to developing gluconolactone, a well-known natural antioxidant, and Bet-based THEDES, showing potential application in transdermal delivery systems.

Skin aging is a multifaceted biological phenomenon influenced by a combination of intrinsic or extrinsic factors. There is an increasing interest in anti-aging materials including components that improve skin wrinkles. Despite the availability of several such wrinkle-improving materials, the demand for ingredients with outstanding efficacy is increasing. Therefore, this study aimed to explore the mechanisms of wrinkle-related genes reported in previous genome-wide association studies (GWASs), identify materials that regulate these genes, and develop an effective anti-wrinkle formula containing the active ingredients that regulate the expression of these genes. We selected two candidate genes, EDAR and BNC2, that are reportedly related to periorbital wrinkles. We investigated their functions in the skin through in vitro experiments using human skin cell lines (keratinocytes and fibroblasts). Moreover, we identified ingredients that regulate the expression of these two genes and confirmed their efficacy through in vitro experiments using the skin cell lines. Finally, we developed a formula containing these ingredients and confirmed that it enhanced dermal collagen in the 3D skin and improved fine wrinkles under the eyes more effectively than retinol in humans, when applied for 8 weeks. Our results are significant and relevant, as we have discovered a special formula for wrinkle improvement with reliable efficacy that surpasses the efficacy of retinol and does not cause side-effects such as skin irritation.

In this study, we discovered that washing hair with surfactants causes a decrease in the internal density of hair, and we propose a cuticle-sealing strategy to inhibit this phenomenon. This phenomenon was revealed based on optical analyses such as optical microscopy, scanning electron microscopy (SEM), drop shape analysis, atomic force microscopy (AFM), and single hair analysis. Repeated treatment with surfactants creates areas of low density within the hair. Additionally, treatment with low-molecular-weight materials resulted in replenishment of the internal density of the hair. It has been shown that the more severe the degree of cuticle lifting, the more the internal density of the hair is reduced by surfactants. In addition, the study confirmed that a decrease in internal density could be prevented by sealing the cell membrane complex (CMC), and it was suggested that this reduced internal density may reflect the pore structure of hair. This study investigates the mass transfer phenomenon that occurs in hair and proposes a strategy to maintain hair homeostasis.

Abstract Facial wrinkles are the predominant phenotypes of skin aging. To date, one of the most effective ways to improve wrinkles is botulinum toxin type A (BoNT/A) injection, which inhibits muscle contractions by reducing acetylcholine release from neurons. However, since BoNT/A is a hazardous neurotoxin, the injection can only be performed by medical doctors and the procedure is only possible through invasive injection, causing inconveniences such as pain. To overcome these inconveniences, we tried to find a way to reduce wrinkles non-invasively via mechanisms similar to BoNT/A. We first designed in vitro assays to test BoNT/A-like muscle contraction inhibition in two different model systems. By using the assays, we identified Zanthoxylum piperitum (Z. piperitum) fruit extract as a BoNT-like reagent (27.7% decrease of muscle contraction rates by 1000 ppm of Z. piperitum extract treatment). Next, we determined mechanisms of how Z. piperitum extract decreases muscle contraction rates and found that the extract treatment inhibits electrical signal transduction in neurons. We also showed that among known components of Z. piperitum extract, quercitrin is responsible for muscle contraction inhibition. We further identified that Z. piperitum extract has synergistic effects with acetyl hexapeptide-8 and BoNT/A light chain, which are well-known BoNT-like peptides. Finally, we showed that topical treatment of the Z. piperitum extract indeed decreases facial wrinkles and treatment of Z. piperitum extract with acetyl hexapeptide-8 has a tendency to improve wrinkles synergistically (14.5% improvement on average). The synergistic effect of the combination is expected to improve wrinkles effectively by implementing the BoNT/A mechanisms in a non-invasive way.

Retinol, one of the most powerful cosmetic materials for anti-aging supported by a solid scientific background, exhibits a wide range of type and severity of irritation while showing limited user compliance. The lack of understanding of the mechanism of retinol-induced irritation has been the main hurdle in the development of anti-irritation strategies. Here, we identified 30 genetic markers related to the susceptibility to retinol-induced irritation in the Korean population. Based on the genetic analysis, a novel formula against retinol-induced irritation was developed, which mitigated the molecular pathogenesis—as indicated by the genetic markers—of the retinol-induced irritation. In human tests, this formula effectively decreased retinol-induced irritation. Furthermore, a polygenic risk score model for irritation was constructed and validated. Our comprehensive approach for the analysis of retinol-induced irritation will not only aid the development of anti-irritation strategies to ensure higher user compliance but also contribute to improving the current knowledge about the biological effects of retinoids.

The present study aimed to investigate the molecular mechanism of quercitrin, a major constituent of Hottuynia cordata extract, for its hair growth stimulating activities in cultured human dermal papilla cells (hDPCs). Quercitrin enhanced the cell viability and cellular energy metabolism in cultured hDPCs by stimulating the production of NAD(P)H and mitochondrial membrane potential (ΔΨ). The expression of Bcl2, an essential marker for anagen hair follicle and cell survival, was increased by quercitrin treatment. Quercitrin also increased the cell proliferation marker Ki67. The expression of growth factors—such as bFGF, KGF, PDGF-AA, and VEGF—were increased by quercitrin both in mRNA and protein levels. In addition, quercitrin was found to increase the phosphorylation of Akt, Erk, and CREB in cultured hDPCs, while inhibitors of MAPKs reversed the effects of quercitrin. Finally, quercitrin stimulated hair shaft growth in cultured human hair follicles. Our data obtained from present study are in line with those previously reported and demonstrate that quercitrin is (one of) the active compound(s) of Hottuynia cordata extract which showed hair growth promoting effects. It is strongly suggested that the hair growth stimulating activity of quercitrin was exerted by enhancing the cellular energy metabolism, increasing the production of growth factors via activation of MAPK/CREB signaling pathway.

In the stratum corneum, the intercellular junction made up of cadherin proteins provides the structural integrity of the framework. Ca2+ ions are known to play a key role in maintaining this junction. In this study, we hypothesized that Ca2+ chelation in stratum corneum will weaken the bond of the tissue and consequently promote exfoliation. Amino acids, ubiquitously existing as metabolites and building blocks of the body, have the molecular property to chelate Ca2+ ions. In the current study, we verified the Ca2+ chelating property of amino acids and demonstrated that amino acids can interfere with the interaction of cadherins, separate stratum corneum into pieces, and thereby stimulate the exfoliation process of skin. These results validate the importance of Ca2+ ion in the skin exfoliation process. Importantly, our findings indicate that amino acids may be efficiently used for improving skin conditions.