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In this work, the effects of substrates on volatile flavor compounds of Shanghai smoked fish (SSF) from grass carp was investigated by head space‐solid‐phase microextraction‐gas chromatography‐mass spectrometry (HS‐SPME‐GC‐MS) by changing the ratios of soy sauce (15%–25%) to white sugar (10%–20%) and replacing white sugar with reducing sugar (glucose, fructose, and ribose). The results showed the key volatile flavor compounds (ROAV ≥ 1) of SSF were 2,4‐decadienal, p‐xylene, nonanal, and 1‐octen‐3‐ol with the relative contents of 10.33, 1.14, 4.84, and 1.76%, respectively. Furthermore, the existence of soy sauce had an enhancing role in the production of pyrazines, but no significant difference in white sugar. The contents of isovaleraldehyde and benzeneacetaldehyde were increased when white sugar was replaced with glucose, octanol, and 2‐pentyl furan for fructose, no obvious difference in ribose. Moreover, the optimal ratios of soaking solutions were 20% soy sauce and 15% white sugar based on the scoring method of sensory evaluation. This study will provide a theoretical basis for the formation of volatile flavor compounds of SSF. Practical applications: Grass carp usually grows in freshwater such as pond or lake, but bacteria with earthy smell are easily attached to plankton such as diatom and cyanobacteria leading to the accumulation of bad odor substances through the food chain. Shanghai smoked fish (SSF) deeply loved by public is a traditional special dish with crispy crust and delicious taste. The attractive flavor of grass carp could be increased with the help of the Maillard reaction (MR) and seasonings. Therefore, the effect of the MR on the volatile flavor compounds of SSF was investigated by HS‐SPME‐GC/MS in this work. A detailed study on the volatile flavor compounds of Shanghai smoked fish could not only enrich the theoretical knowledge of flavor chemistry of freshwater fish, but have a profound contribution to the development of freshwater fish processing techniques. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

In this work, the effect of processing stages including first soaking (FS), frying after first soaking (FFS), and second soaking (SS) on nonvolatile taste compounds of Shanghai smoked fish was investigated using high‐performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) and automatic amino acid analyzer. Results showed that the contents of free amino acids (FAAs) ranged from 396.94 to 585.79 mg/100 g and 5′‐inosine monophosphate (IMP, as main umami nucleotide) from 215.91 to 284.56 mg/100 g in Shanghai smoked fish, respectively. Moreover, the contents of Glu and Gly as main umami amino acids ranged from 1.64 to 107.32 mg/100 g and 61.61 to 108.88 mg/100 g, respectively. TAV values of IMP, Asp, and Glu in Shanghai smoked fish reached 11.38, 2.73, and 21.46, respectively. The obvious difference could be observed using principal component analysis (PCA) in three processing stages of Shanghai smoked fish. Therefore, probing into the nonvolatile flavor of Shanghai smoked fish could not only enrich the theoretical basis of flavor chemistry in freshwater fish fields, but probe into the formation mechanisms of taste compounds in further study. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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