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Long a gastronomic darling of French food critics, the city of Lyon still pulses with the work of adventurous chefs. Earlier this year, it was a startling reinvention by the celebrated Christian Tetedoie that dominated headlines. What possessed Mr. Tetedoie to close the tranquil, Michelin-starred restaurant he ran for 20 years in Lyon and, earlier this year, open a futuristic establishment high above town on Fourviere Hill? [ABSTRACT FROM PUBLISHER]