Search

Flax (Linum usitatissimum L.) is a plant of industrial importance, its fibres being presently used for high-value textile applications, composite reinforcements as well as natural actuators. Human interest in this fibre-rich plant dates back several millennia, including to Ancient Egypt where flax was used extensively in various quotidian items. While the recent technical developments of flax fibres continue to diversify through scientific research, the historical use of flax also has rich lessons for today. Through careful examination of ancient Egyptian and modern flax fibres, this study aims to conduct a multi-scale characterization from the yarn to the fibre cell wall scale, linking differences in structure and polysaccharide content to the mechanical performance and durability of flax. Here, a multi-scale biochemical study is enriched by scanning electron microscopy and nanomechanical investigations. A key finding is the similarity of cellulose features, crystallinity index and local mechanical performances between ancient and modern fibres. Biochemically speaking, monosaccharides analysis, deep-UV and NMR investigations demonstrate that ancient fibres exhibit less pectins but a similar hemicellulosic content, especially through uronic acids and galactose, suggesting the sensitivity of these non-crystalline components., Competing Interests: Declaration of competing interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (Copyright © 2024 The Authors. Published by Elsevier Ltd.. All rights reserved.)

Flax has a long and fascinating history. This plant was domesticated around 8,000 BCE 1 in the Fertile Crescent area 2 , first for its seeds and then for its fibres 1,3 . Although its uses existed long before domestication, residues of flax yarn dated 30,000 years ago have been found in the Caucasus area 4 . However, Ancient Egypt laid the foundations for the cultivation of flax as a textile fibre crop 5 . Today flax fibres are used in high-value textiles and in natural actuators 6 or reinforcements in composite materials 7 . Flax is therefore a bridge between ages and civilizations. For several decades, the development of non- or micro-destructive analysis techniques has led to numerous works on the conservation of ancient textiles. Non-destructive methods, such as optical microscopy 8 or vibrational techniques 9,10 , have been largely used to investigate archaeological textiles, principally to evaluate their degradation mechanisms and state of conservation. Vibrational spectroscopy studies can now benefit from synchrotron radiation 11 and X-ray diffraction measurement in the archaeometric study of historical textiles 12,13 . Conservation of mechanical performance and the ultrastructural differences between ancient and modern flax varieties have not been examined thus far. Here we examine the morphological, ultrastructural and mechanical characteristics of a yarn from an Egyptian mortuary linen dating from the early Middle Kingdom (Eleventh Dynasty, ca. 2033-1963 BCE) and compare them with a modern flax yarn to assess the quality and durability of ancient flax fibres and relate these to their processing methods. Advanced microscopy techniques, such as nano-tomography, multiphoton excitation microscopy and atomic force microscopy were used. Our findings reveal the cultural know-how of this ancient civilization in producing high-fineness fibres, as well as the exceptional durability of flax, which is sometimes questioned, demonstrating their potential as reinforcements in high-technology composites., (© 2021. The Author(s), under exclusive licence to Springer Nature Limited.)