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The study of extreme ocean waves has gained considerable interest in recent years, due to their importance for offshore design and navigation safety, and several theoretical approaches have been developed for their statistical description. However, in the case of crossing seas, where two or more wave systems of different characteristics are present, a full understanding of the main physical mechanisms responsible for the occurrence of very high individual waves is still lacking. As a consequence, the prediction of extremes in such conditions currently relies on integrated parameters of the total sea state, such as the spectral wave steepness. In this study, to gain further insight into the role of the crossing wind sea and swell wave systems in producing extreme individual waves, we investigate realistic sea states during typhoon Kong-rey (2018) using an ensemble of numerical simulations obtained from a phase-resolving wave model based on the High-Order Spectral (HOS) method. The reliability of the numerical fields is assessed for the first time with stereo wave measurements of the sea surface elevation field collected from an offshore platform in the area of interest. We show that, in specific conditions, space-time extreme crest heights in crossing seas can be larger than in unimodal seas due to second-order bound wave interactions between the wind sea and the swell. To improve existing prediction capabilities, we propose a novel formulation for the wave steepness in crossing seas, which includes nonlinear effects up to the second order and accounts for the spectral parameters of the interacting wave systems.

Accurate wind-wave forecasting in enclosed and semi-enclosed basins is a challenging task, demanding primarily for high-resolution wind forcing at regional scale. This is generally obtained with dynamical downscaling from a low-to-mid resolution atmospheric model. In this context, a new wave forecasting system for the marginal Adriatic Sea is herein presented aimed at proposing an alternative strategy for accurate wind-wave forecasting in (semi-) enclosed basins that does not require an ad-hoc regional atmospheric model. The system is based on the state-of-the-art WAVEWATCH III® spectral wave model forced by the global IFS-ECMWF forecast. At first, wind speed is quantile-corrected to account for the systematic underestimation over the Adriatic Sea. Then, the significant wave height in the target region and for regimes associated with marine storms is calibrated following standard procedure. Wind and wave observations from different sources are used for calibration and validation of the wave forecasts, which achieve satisfactory scores. We also compare results with those of other forecasting systems in the area, highlighting the importance of the wind forcing accuracy and the wave model calibration. Doing so, we discuss the challenges that characterise (semi-) enclosed environments in order to propose effective solutions for them and future developments.

This paper proposes a method to infer the future change in the wind-wave climate using reanalysis wind corrected to statistically match data from a regional climate model (RCM). The method is applied to the sea surface wind speed of the reanalysis ERA5 from the European Centre for Medium-Range Weather Forecasts. The correction is determined from a quantile mapping between ERA5 and the RCM at any given point in the geographical space. The issues that need to be addressed to better understand and apply the method are discussed. Corrected ERA5 wind fields are eventually used to force a spectral wave numerical model to simulate the climate of significant wave height. The correction strategy is implemented over the Adriatic Sea (a semi-enclosed basin of the Mediterranean Sea) and includes the present-day period (1981–2010) and the near-future period (2021–2050) under the two IPCC RCP4.5 and RCP8.5 concentration scenarios. Evaluation against observations of wind and waves gives confidence in the reliability of the proposed approach. Results confirm the evolution toward an overall decrease in storm wave severity in the basin, especially under RCP8.5 and in its northern area. It is expected that the methodology may be applied to other reanalyses, RCMs (including multi-model ensembles), or seas with similar characteristics.

A climatology of the wind waves in the Mediterranean Sea is presented. The climate patterns, their spatio-temporal variability and change are based on a 40-year (1980–2019) wave hindcast, obtained by combining the ERA5 reanalysis wind forcing with the state-of-the-art WAVEWATCH III spectral wave model and verified against satellite altimetry. Results are presented for the typical (50th percentile) and extreme (99th percentile) significant wave height and, for the first time at the regional Mediterranean Sea scale, for the typical and extreme expected maximum individual wave height of sea states. The climate variability of wind waves is evaluated at seasonal scale by proposing and adopting a definition of seasons for the Mediterranean Sea states that is based on the satellite altimetry wave observations of stormy (winter) and calm (summer) months. The results, initially presented for the four seasons and then for winter and summer only, show the regions of the basin where largest waves occur and those with the largest temporal variability. A possible relationship with the atmospheric parameter anomalies and with teleconnection patterns (through climate indices) that motivates such variability is investigated, with results suggesting that the Scandinavian index variability is the most correlated to the Mediterranean Sea wind-wave variability, especially for typical winter sea states. Finally, a trend analysis shows that the Mediterranean Sea typical and extreme significant and maximum individual wave heights are decreasing during summer and increasing during winter.

There is general consensus that accurate model predictions of extreme wave events during marine storms can substantially contribute to avoiding or minimizing human losses and material damage. Reliable wave forecasts and hindcasts, together with statistical analysis of extreme conditions, are then of utmost importance for monitoring marine areas. In this study, we perform an analysis of the limitations of the available short-term/range extreme-value distributions suitable for space-time maximum wave and crest heights. In particular, we propose an improvement of the theoretical distributions by including upper bounds on the maximum heights that waves may reach. The modification of the space-time probability distributions and its impact for extreme-value assessment is discussed in the paper. We show that unbounded space-time distributions are still effective provided that the surface area included in the analysis has sides smaller than O(102 m). For wider surfaces, the use of the bounded distributions is consistent with the expected saturation of maximum heights that ocean waves attain.