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Anthony V. Rawlings has had 30+ years of experience in the general area of skin science. He has many scientific publications, and his work has been highly cited. He has made major contributions to our understanding of skin physiology, including xerosis and hydration, barrier function, desquamation, the corneocyte envelope, physical chemistry of stratum corneum lipids, photodamage and ethnic variation. He has held management positions with several companies in the US and UK, established AVR Consulting in 2002 and maintained a long‐standing relationship with colleagues at University College London. His time as the Editor in Chief of the International Journal of Cosmetic Science was pivotal in the development of the journal. He worked hard and succeeded in getting the IJCS included in the PubMed database. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: The objective of this study was to perform noninvasive analysis of skin proteins in a healthy Chinese population using label‐free nanoflow liquid chromatography‐mass spectrometry (nLC‐MS). Materials and Methods: Five consecutive tape strippings were obtained from the volar forearm skin of healthy Chinese subjects. Proteins were extracted, and trypsin‐digested peptides were analyzed by a nanochromatography instrument coupled to an Orbitrap Fusion Tribrid mass spectrometer. Data‐dependent acquisition allowed protein identification, which was performed by using Proteome Discoverer software (v2.2). Results: In this study, we identified 80 common proteins that were expressed in the skin of healthy Chinese volunteers and divided these proteins into 16 categories, including keratins, cornified envelope proteins, and enzymes associated with substance metabolism. These proteins were closely associated with multiple functions of the skin barrier. Conclusion: This study provides a noninvasive method to analyze healthy human epidermal proteins, which are closely associated with the skin barrier. In addition, this study provides a reference for further studies on the application of proteomic technologies to investigate the role of human epidermal proteins in health and disease. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract The superficial layer of the skin, the stratum corneum (SC), consists of corneocytes surrounded by lipid regions and acts as a protective barrier for the body against water loss, toxic agents and microorganisms. As most substances permeate the stratum corneum through the lipid regions, lipid organization is considered crucial for the skin barrier function. Here, we investigate the potential of in vivo confocal Raman spectroscopy to describe the composition and organization of the SC. Confocal Raman spectroscopy is finding increasing use in the characterization of skin in biomedical, pharmaceutical and cosmetic applications. In this work, we analyze the spectra using chemometric methods and obtain principal components that correspond to the primary skin constituents: protein (keratin), natural moisturizing factor (NMF), water and lipid contributions in both ordered (orthorhombic) and disordered structural organization. By identifying these important components of the SC, these results highlight the utility of this in vivo , non-invasive, and depth resolved tool at the forefront of skin research. Graphical abstract Unlabelled Image Highlights • Chemometric analysis of in vivo confocal Raman spectra of human stratum corneum finds components corresponding to protein, NMF, water and lipids. • Lipid organization is crucial for the skin barrier function. Our approach detects SC lipids in ordered and disordered structural organization. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Porcine skin is widely used as a human skin model in dermatology. For both, porcine stratum corneum (SC) ex vivo and human SC in vivo, the hydrogen bonding states of water, the secondary and tertiary structures of keratin, the natural moisturizing factor (NMF) concentrations and the intercellular lipids' (ICL) lateral organization are investigated depth‐dependently using confocal Raman microscopy. The SC depth profiles show that porcine SC ex vivo is characterized by lower hydrogen bonding states of water (10%‐30% SC depth), lower NMF concentration in the whole SC, more β‐sheet form of keratin (10%‐90% SC depth), more folded tertiary keratin structures (30%‐70% SC depth) and higher hexagonal lateral packing order of ICL (10%‐50% SC depth) compared to human SC in vivo. The results clearly show a higher value of skin barrier function of human SC in vivo than of porcine SC ex vivo. Thus, the human SC in vivo is less permeable for lipophilic and hydrophilic substances than porcine SC ex vivo. Considering the porcine SC as an ex vivo model of human SC in vivo, these findings should be taken into consideration. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Phytosphingosine (PHS) is a sphingoid that is a key component of phytoceramides NP, AP and EOP. PHS has been known to have anti-inflammation and antimicrobial activities and to stimulate epidermal differentiation. In addition, it is reported that PHS treatment notably increased phytoceramide content in keratinocytes. In this study, we tried to investigate whether PHS has any effect on the maturation of corneocytes such as formation of cornified envelope and natural moisturizing factor (NMF) that is also an essential event during the formation of skin barrier, stratum corneum. Special focus was made on the filaggrin (FLG) metabolism that is directly responsible for NMF production. PHS increased the expression of essential keratinocyte differentiation genes such as involucrin and transglutaminase 1 in cultured human keratinocytes. Interestingly, the expressions of FLG, caspase 14 and bleomycin hydrolase, all of which involved in NMF production in corneocytes, were significantly induced by PHS treatment in vitro. The effect of PHS on FLG metabolism was manifested as the increase of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and skin hydration in vivo human skin. Results showed PHS had skin moisturizing effect by modulating FLG metabolic pathways and suggested to be an essential role in coordinated formation of the corneocyte envelope and NMF within. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objectives This work aimed to design, synthesize and characterize replacement natural moisturizing factor ( NMF) composed of modified hygroscopic linear amino acids to pre-empt or repair skin barrier dysfunction. Methods Following synthesis and characterization, thermo-gravimetric analysis and quantum mechanics molecular modelling quantified and depicted water binding to the new compounds. Deliquescence relative humidity demonstrated the water-scavenging ability of the compounds, whereas snake skin moisturizing studies showed they increased water uptake into snake skin. Results From thermal analysis, N-hydroxyglycine showed greatest water-holding capacity followed by N-hydroxyserine, l-homoserine and α-hydroxyglycine; coupled with quantum mechanics molecular modelling, between 8 and 12 molecules of water could associate with each molecule of either N-hydroxyglycine, N-hydroxyserine or l-homoserine. All of our modified amino acids were efficacious and induced similar or greater water uptake compared with the established moisturizing compounds hyaluronic acid, glycerine and urea in snake skin. Incorporated at 10% in Oilatum, N-hydroxyserine induced >200% greater moisture uptake into dry snake skin compared to treatment with water alone, with efficacy related to the molecule structure and ability to bind to 12 water molecules. Oilatum cream spiked with all our unnatural amino acid hydrotropes increased water uptake into snake skin compared with Oilatum alone. The compound series was designed to elucidate some structure - efficacy relationships. Amino acid chirality did not affect the water-holding capacity but did affect uptake into skin. Compounds with high melting points and bond energies tended to decrease water-holding capacity. With isosteric replacement, the more electronegative atoms gave greater water-holding capacities. Conclusions This work demonstrates the potential of unnatural amino acid hydrotropes as skin moisturizers and has developed some predictive 'rules' for further design and refinement of chemical structures. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The pH of the skin follows a sharp gradient across the stratum corneum (SC), which is suspected to play an important role in controlling the enzymatic activities involved in cellular metabolism and renewal. This gradient is maintained by several systems, such as sweat and serum secretion and degradation as well as cellular metabolism. At the surface of the skin, what is measured is in fact an apparent skin pH due to extracted material from the SC diffusing into water applied at the surface. pH values recorded at the surface of a semi hydrophobic milieu such as the SC should be interpreted with great caution because it is obvious that hydrogen ions are not in a pure solution at the surface of the skin. For a correct measurement of skin surface pH, it is recommended to follow all practical operating conditions. Care must be taken in identifying the skin site, healthy controls (age, gender, skin type), the time of day of the measurement and the environmental conditions. Also, subjects should receive precise instructions before the test, mainly in terms of hygiene procedure or use of topical products. The interpretation of data should not overlook the fact that even small differences in pH may reflect significant modifications at the molecular level. Although it is usually agreed that the pH of the skin surface may influence the cutaneous microflora, much remains to be learnt about the role of the acid mantle of the skin with regard to defensins and other protective mechanisms. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Filaggrin (FLG) mutations result in reduced stratum corneum (SC) natural moisturizing factor (NMF) components and consequent increased SC pH. Because higher pH activates SC protease activity, we hypothesized an enhanced release of proinflammatory IL-1 cytokines from corneocytes in patients with atopic dermatitis (AD) with FLG mutations (AD FLG ) compared with that seen in patients with AD without these mutations (AD NON-FLG ). Objectives: We sought to investigate SC IL-1 cytokine profiles in the uninvolved skin of controls and patients with AD FLG versus patients with AD NON-FLG . We also sought to examine the same profiles in a murine model of filaggrin deficiency (Flgft/Flgft [FlgdelAPfal ] mice). Methods: One hundred thirty-seven patients were studied. NMF levels were ascertained using confocal Raman spectroscopy; transepidermal water loss and skin surface pH were measured. IL-1α, IL-1β, IL-18, IL-1 receptor antagonist (IL-1RA), and IL-8 levels were determined in SC tape strips from 93 patients. All subjects were screened for 9 FLG mutations. Flgft/Flgft (FlgdelAPfal) mice, separated from maFlgft/maFlgft (flaky tail) mice, were used for the preparation and culture of primary murine keratinocytes and as a source of murine skin. RT-PCR was performed using primers specific for murine IL-1α, IL-1β, and IL-1RA. Results: SC IL-1 levels were increased in patients with AD FLG ; these levels were inversely correlated with NMF levels. NMF values were also inversely correlated with skin surface pH. Skin and keratinocytes from Flgft/Flgft mice had upregulated expression of IL-1β and IL-1RA mRNA. Conclusions: AD FLG is associated with an increased SC IL-1 cytokine profile; this profile is also seen in a murine homologue of filaggrin deficiency. These findings might have importance in understanding the influence of FLG mutations on the inflammasome in the pathogenesis of AD and help individualize therapeutic approaches. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]