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Collagen-based skincare products can replenish collagen in the skin; however, collagen cannot easily penetrate the dermis, limiting its effectiveness. Therefore, nanomaterials that can enable collagen to effectively penetrate the dermis are urgently needed. This study aimed to determine the potential role of the supramolecular collagen nanoparticles, namely, lactoferrin, recombinant human collagen, and palmitoyl tripeptide-5, in improving the effectiveness of skincare products. Lactoferrin and recombinant collagen served as carriers encapsulating palmitoyl tripeptide-5, with an encapsulation rate of 94.18 %. The supramolecular collagen nanoparticles demonstrated good stability after 1 month. Transdermal efficiency was improved by 69.90 %, allowing the nanoparticles to penetrate deeply into the dermis. Within 28 days of use, the moisture content of the stratum corneum increased by 10.51 %, facial elasticity improved by 8.15 %, skin firmness increased by 12.53 %, facial melanin index decreased by 1.84 %, and individual type angle increased by 19.10 %. Within 14 days, there was a 24.69 % reduction in eye bag wrinkles and a 37.61 % reduction in nasolabial wrinkles. Wrinkle lengths decreased by 10.22 % and 21.57 %, and areas decreased by 34.41 % and 27.92 %, respectively. The supramolecular collagen nanoparticles displayed multiple skincare benefits, including moisturizing, whitening, wrinkle reduction, and firming. In conclusion, the supramolecular collagen nanoparticles are promising candidates for cosmetic products., Competing Interests: Declaration of Competing Interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (Copyright © 2024 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

Background: Skin aging is a multifaceted condition marked by the development of wrinkles, reduced suppleness, and uneven pigmentation. Both endogenous and exogenous factors contribute to skin aging. Studies have examined the possible anti-aging advantages of horsetail and soybean extracts, which are abundant in antioxidants., Methods: A study was conducted to develop and assess the stability of an anti-wrinkle cream combining horsetail and soybean extracts over a period of 6 months. This study was a pilot study that was prospective and noncomparative in nature. An investigation was performed to explore the efficiency of a treatment on wrinkles on the forehead. The study involved 15 volunteers between the ages of 35 and 55, and the modified Fitzpatrick wrinkle grading scale (FWS) method was used to assess the results. The participants were directed to administer cream to the forehead region for a duration of eight sequential weeks. Images were acquired at the initial stage and after 8 weeks of treatment. An independent investigator evaluated the improvement in the overall appearance of the forehead skin by comparing clinical images taken before and after the therapy., Results: The cream exhibited exceptional stability, showing no noteworthy alterations in pH, viscosity, or microbiological count. The clinical findings demonstrated a notable decrease in the average FWS score from 8.7 ± 1.3 to 6.1 ± 1.8 (p < 0.005) after the treatment. 93.4% of the individuals experienced a positive alteration in the appearance of their forehead wrinkles., Conclusion: The formulated cream presents a hopeful method to tackle skin aging issues, backed by its durability and effectiveness in diminishing wrinkles. Additional investigation is necessary to clarify the underlying mechanisms., Trial Registration: IRCT20190917044799N1., (© 2024 The Author(s). Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology published by Wiley Periodicals LLC.)

The unique amino acid composition of elastin peptide (EP) makes it an excellent resource to obtain antioxidant peptides. It exhibits high elastase inhibitory activity with the potential to resist skin aging and is currently used in a many cosmetic products. However, the inherent low permeability of the skin limits its ability to penetrate the skin. To address this issue, a deep eutectic solvent (SAB) with excellent bioactivity was synthesized from betaine and succinic acid and used as a permeation enhancer to improve the absorption and utilization of EP in this paper. The results showed that low SAB concentrations significantly increased the transdermal delivery of EP. The 3D epidermal skin model (EpiKutis®) demonstrated that SAB/EP induced the synthesis of hyaluronic acid (HA) and filaggrin (FLG), accelerated skin barrier repair, and reduced water loss. Additionally, the zebrafish embryonic model showed that SAB/EP could reduce melanin secretion, decrease melanin deposition, and have an ameliorative effect on skin photoaging. Cellular experiments proved that SAB/EP can stimulate human skin fibroblasts to secrete procollagen I and elastin, improving skin elasticity and anti-wrinkle. The combination of EP and DES is a new attempt that is expected to be used as a safe and effective anti-wrinkle cosmetic material., Competing Interests: Declaration of competing interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (Copyright © 2024 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

The mechanism research of skin wrinkles, conducted on volunteers underwent high-intensity desk work and mice subjected to partial sleep deprivation, revealed a significant reduction in dermal thickness associated with the presence of wrinkles. This can be attributed to the activation of facial nerves in a state of hysteria due to an abnormally elevated interaction between SNAP25 and RAB3A proteins involved in the synaptic vesicle cycle (SVC). Facilitated by AI-assisted structural design, a refined peptide called RSI pep is developed to modulate this interaction and normalize SVC. Drawing inspiration from prions, which possess the ability to protect themselves against proteolysis and invade neighboring nerve cells through macropinocytosis, RSI pep is engineered to demonstrate a GSH-responsive reversible self-assembly into a prion-like supermolecule (RSI prion ). RSI prion showcases protease resistance, micropinocytosis-dependent cellular internalization, and low adhesion with constituent molecules in the cuticle, thereby endowing it with the transdermic absorption and subsequent biofunction in redressing the frenzied SVC. As a facial mud mask, it effectively reduces periorbital and perinasal wrinkles in the human face. Collectively, RSI prion not only presents a clinical potential as an anti-wrinkle prion-like supermolecule, but also exemplifies a reproducible instance of bionic strategy-guided drug development that bestows transdermal ability upon the pharmaceutical molecule., (© 2024 The Author(s). Advanced Science published by Wiley‐VCH GmbH.)

Chronic exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation from sunlight accelerates skin ageing, which is followed by harsh, thick, dry and loose conditions. One of the most demonstrative symptoms is deep wrinkles induced by skin barrier disruption. Our previous research showed that Phaseolus angularis seed extract (PASE) effectively inhibits skin ageing through UVB protection in HaCaT cells by suppressing skin damage. However, its efficacy has not been evaluated in clinical trials so far. PASE cream's effectiveness was initially tested on the artificial skin model, revealing an increase in filaggrin and defence against skin damage. Based on these results, in this single-centred, randomized, double-blind study, we investigated the anti-ageing effect of PASE in human eye wrinkle areas. For these 21 healthy adult women aged 30 to 59, a PASE cream was applied to the right eye wrinkle area and a placebo to the left eye wrinkle area twice a day (morning and evening) for 12 weeks. The change in thick, deep crease wrinkles around the eyes was confirmed by visual evaluation, skin measurements and a questionnaire. As a result, the surface roughness (R1), maximum roughness (R2), average roughness (R3), smoothness depth (R4) and arithmetic mean roughness (R5) values in the group using the PASE cream all decreased. Particularly, R1, R4 and R5 significantly decreased by 18.1%, 18.6% and 25.0%, respectively. Subjects who applied PASE cream also experienced an improvement in skin moisture nearly twice the time compared to the placebo group. In addition, no participants reported side effects. Our study showed that PASE cream led to clinically significant levels of wrinkle improvement. In conclusion, as PASE is a natural, safe food with no side effects, it can be a good resource for natural anti-wrinkle functional cosmetics in the future., (© 2023 The Authors. International Journal of Cosmetic Science published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd on behalf of Society of Cosmetic Scientists and Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie.)

Background: Ginkgo biloba (GB) leaves extract is known to possess potent antioxidants and other bioactivities such as improved skin conditions and rejuvenation., Objective: This study aimed to develop a cosmeceutical preparation to utilize the strong antioxidant potential of GB leaves as part of the skincare formulation., Methods: Cream incorporated GB (GBC) was prepared by mixing the obtained extract with stearic acid-sodium hydroxide components in an emulsion format. The obtained GBC was characterized for GB contents, uniformity, pH, compatibility, stability, and skin's human application., Results: A homogeneous, physically, and chemically stable, with pH near the skin pH and shiny cream, was obtained. The prepared cream was easy to rub and pearly in appearance. It was effective and safe during the two-week trial conducted on human volunteers according to clinical trial registry protocols. The cream scavenged free radicals in DPPH assay tests. The cream incorporated GB made the skin more spirited and tauter. Furthermore, the wrinkles were reduced and the skin was renewed vigor., Conclusion: The GBC worked at the topical level and provided benefits when applied daily for the trial duration. The formulation also provided visually observable anti-wrinkle effects on the skin, with visible improvements in the skin's shape and texture. The prepared cream can be used to rejuvenate the skin.

Background: Tetra-isopalmitoyl ascorbic acid (VC-IP), an oil-soluble vitamin C derivative, is known to be effective for treating photoaging skin caused by oxidative stress. In addition, it is known that morphological changes of the skin occur on the face with aging, and the main cause has been reported to be photoaging., Aims: There have not been any published reports that examined the clinical effects of vitamin C derivatives on periorbital wrinkles. The purpose of this study was to characterize the potential anti-wrinkle effect of VC-IP., Methods: A double-blind, randomized, placebo-controlled, split face clinical trial was performed on 3 groups of 23 female subjects each who used 1%, 2%, or 3% VC-IP creams versus a placebo cream to treat their facial wrinkles. VC-IP cream was applied on the periorbital area on one side of the face of each subject twice a day for 8 weeks and a placebo cream was applied on the other side. Anti-wrinkle effects were evaluated by visual wrinkle grading and topographic assessments., Results: Periorbital wrinkles treated with VC-IP twice a day for 8 weeks showed marked or moderate improvements according to visual observations and grading of photographs. Moreover, topographic assessments confirmed the improving effects of VC-IP, and more interestingly, the appearance of those effects differed depending on the VC-IP concentration. In addition, sufficient improvement was observed in parameters reported to be associated with dermal structure at lower concentrations of VC-IP., Conclusions: These results indicate that topical application of VC-IP cream reduces periorbital wrinkles caused by skin aging., (© 2021 Wiley Periodicals LLC.)

Luffa cylindrica stem sap (LuCS) has been traditionally used as a facial cosmetic supplement to enhance the skin condition of Asians. However, LuCS has yet to be described and there is no solid scientific evidence regarding the use of LuCS as an anti-wrinkle agent. In the present study, we have evaluated the functional effect of LuCS and its underlying mechanisms based on scientific evidence. Treatment with LuCS stimulated the growth and migration of human skin fibroblasts. LuCS treatment activated EGFR signaling via the enhanced expression of EGFR and down-regulation of PPARγ in human skin fibroblasts. Exposure to LuCS induced the synthesis of cellular type I procollagen and elastin in consort with the down-regulation of various proteinases including MMP-1, -2 and -9 in human skin fibroblasts. LuCS treatment also reversed the skin damage induced by UV-A irradiation in human skin fibroblasts. 3-bromo-3-methylisoxazol-5-amine was identified as the functional component using UPLC-MS-MS analysis and increased production of cellular type I procollagen. Collectively, these results suggest the efficacy of LuCS supplementation in improving the skin condition via anti-wrinkle effect., Competing Interests: Declaration of competing interest S Jo is the scientific founder and Chief Executive Officer of chanchanhee Inc., J Lee, E Han, and J Kim declares no competing interests., (Copyright © 2021 Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.)

Objectives: Antioxidant containing cosmeceuticals are commonly prescribed products in treating wrinkles and revitalizing the skin. The aim of this study was the comparative evaluation of physicochemical stability and clinical anti-wrinkle efficacy of transdermal emulgel preparations of sodium ascorbyl phosphate (SAP) and ascorbic acid (AA) on human volunteers., Methods: Emulgel preparations containing 5% of (SAP) and or (AA) were prepared. HPLC analysis was performed for stability evaluations. Clinical anti-wrinkle efficacy of the formulations was examined on human healthy volunteers in crow's feet area. Elasticity and digital images were recorded before and after treatment., Results: Formulations with added antioxidants and kept in the refrigerator exhibited better stability characteristics. Two-sided blind study and placebo-controlled study showed that both actives were effective in wrinkles depth reduction and also elasticity enhancement but statistically significant difference in the efficacy of the products was not observed., Conclusion: Formulations containing (AA) and or (SAP) both improved elasticity and wrinkles of the skin almost by the same extent, and it is necessary to add antioxidant stabilizing agents to both preparations to reach a desired stability., (© 2020 Wiley Periodicals, LLC.)

Inflammation of the skin is the most common dermatological problem in human. The anti-inflammatory mediated responses of the skin cells provide a mechanism for combating these conditions. Annexin A1 (AnxA1) is one of the proteins that has been shown to have a potent anti-inflammatory effect. However, the effects and mechanisms of AnxA1 in skin keratinocyte and fibroblast have not been reported yet. In the current study, we hypothesized that Ac2-26, AnxA1 mimetic peptide, ameliorates inflammation and wrinkle formation in human skin cells. Therefore, we aimed to identify whether Ac2-26 has anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkle effects in human keratinocyte (HaCaT) and fibroblast (Detroit 551) cells, respectively. Human HaCaT cells were stimulated by TNF-α/IFN-γ with or without Ac2-26, to identify the anti-inflammatory effect. Human Detroit 551 cells were treated with Ac2-26 to verify the anti-wrinkle effect. Initially, cell cytotoxicity was carried out in each cell line treated using Ac2-26 by MTT assay. Human MDA, IL-8, and procollagen secretion were detected by ELISA assay. The inflammatory chemokines were measured by qRT-PCR analysis. To demonstrate the mechanism, MAPK, NF-κB, JAK/STAT, and MMPs were analyzed by Western blotting. As a result, we identified that Ac2-26 significantly decreased the expression of TNF-α/IFN-γ-stimulated pro-inflammatory chemokines, including IL-1β, IL-6, IL-8, MDC, TARC, and TNF-α, by inhibiting the activation of MAPK, NF-κB, and JAK/STAT pathway in TNF-α/IFN-γ-stimulated HaCaT human keratinocytes. In addition, we also identified that Ac2-26 significantly induced collagen synthesis by generating pro-collagen, and suppressed collagen degradation by inhibiting the collagenase MMP-1 and MMP-8 expression. Collectively, these results suggest that Ac2-26 shows anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkling effect. These effects may lead to the development of preventive and therapeutic application for inflammation-related skin disease and wrinkle formation.

Background: Recently, many compounds or extracts from natural sources are used for reducing facial aging and wrinkles., Objective: This study investigates the preparation and evaluation of the safety and efficacy of saffron extract and avocado oil used for anti-wrinkle topical cream., Methods and Materials: Oil in water cream was prepared containing avocado oil and the saffron extract. Accelerated stability tests were carried out due to 6 months accordingly through the International Council for Harmonization (ICH) guideline. For clinical studies, topical cream was applied by twenty healthy volunteers daily, for 12 weeks. Improvement in wrinkle grading by a Global Aesthetic Improvement Scale (GIAS), depth and volume of the nasolabial fold, thickness, and density of dermis, and determination of the skin biophysical parameters were evaluated at the baseline, 6th and 12th week., Result: During the period of storage, the formulation showed no variation in physicochemical properties. The clinical evaluation showed at least one-grade improvement in GIAS in 30% and 45% of participants, after 6 and 12 weeks, respectively. Subjects were "moderately satisfied" with the treatment. In addition, the area and volume of nasolabial folds were significantly reduced. Moreover, net elasticity (R5) and gross elasticity (R2) showed a significant increase after 12 weeks of treatment. There was no report of allergic reactions, and no changes in skin hydration occurred during the treatment., Conclusion: The results of this study showed that saffron extract and avocado oil anti-wrinkle topical cream is an efficient and safe treatment for facial skin rejuvenation., (© 2020 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

The aim of this study was to determine the effects of anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening of fermented black ginseng (FBG) in human subjects and to examine underlying biochemical mechanisms of action. A clinical study was performed to evaluate efficacy and safety using a 1% FBG cream formulation. Twenty-three subjects were recruited and instructed to apply control or FBG creams each on half of their face twice daily for 8 weeks. After 8 weeks FBG cream significantly reduced appearance of eye wrinkles compared to prior to exposure and control cream. Skin color was significantly brightened using FBG cream in comparison with control cream. To determine the mechanism of actions involved in anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening effects various concentrations of FBG were applied to human fibroblast CCD-986sk and mouse melanoma B16F1 cells. Collagen synthesis in CCD-986sk cells was improved significantly at 1, 3, 10, or 30 µg/ml of FBG. At 30 µg/ml, FBG significantly inhibited (73%) collagenase, and matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) compared to control. Tyrosinase activity and DOPA (3,4-dihydroxy-L-phenylalanine) oxidation were significantly decreased at all tested concentrations. Melanin production in B16F1 cells was concentration-dependently reduced 15% to 60% by all concentrations of FBG. These results suggested that a 1% FBG cream exerted anti-wrinkle and skin-whitening effects.

Background: High demand on anti-aging skin care encourage the improvement and development of more personalized formulations with additional benefits for general skin health and age associated skin signs. The skin aging physical and biological phenotypes manifest differently between diverse ethnic populations. A highly polluted environment can be viewed as an extrinsic factor accelerating the skin aging process., Aim: To develop a unique formula with active complexes, having multifunctional effects for anti-pollution, brightening and anti-aging/barrier strengthening purposes with confirmed activities in vitro and ex vivo skin models, suitable for polluted skin., Methods: In vitro culture model with primary human skin cells, ex vivo studies with full-thickness human skin, melanocyte 3D coculture model, gene expression of epidermal and dermal genes, anti-glycation, proteasomal activity, melanin, and cytokine assays., Results: In vitro and ex vivo studies clearly demonstrated that diglucosyl gallic acid (active A) and the formulation complex inhibited pollution mediated MMP1 protein, CYP1A1 gene expression, and IL-6 protein secretion, while caprylic/capric triglyceride, diacetyl boldine (active B) had anti-melanogenic effect in in vitro primary melanocyte monoculture and 3D spheroid model. Another active compound, acetyl dipeptide 1 cetyl ester (active D), significantly upregulated epidermal barrier genes (Aquaporin 3 [AQP3], Filaggrin [FLG], caspase 14, and keratin 10) in human primary keratinocytes. Interestingly, both acetyl dipeptide 1 cetyl ester (active D) and niacinamide (active C) improved dermal gene expression (fibrillin-1, Collagen type 1 alpha 1, Decorin, Lysyl oxidase-like 1) and, moreover, had significant anti-glycant and proteasomal promoter activity in human primary fibroblasts., Conclusion: Considering consumers need in heavily polluted areas, we developed a multipurpose formulation comprised of unique active complexes toward pollution, pollution induced inflammation, skin brightening, and antiaging concerns with beneficial results demonstrated by in vitro and ex vivo studies., (© 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

The cosmetic industry is among the fastest growing industries in the last decade. As the beauty concepts have been revolutionized, many terms have been coined to accompany the innovation of this industry, since the beauty products are not just confined to those that are applied to protect and enhance the appearance of the human body. Consequently, the terms such as cosmeceuticals and nutricosmetics have emerged to give a notion of the health benefits of the products that create the beauty from inside to outside. In the past years, natural products-based cosmeceuticals have gained a huge amount of attention not only from researchers but also from the public due to the general belief that they are harmless. Notably, in recent years, the demand for cosmeceuticals from the marine resources has been exponentially on the rise due to their unique chemical and biological properties that are not found in terrestrial resources. Therefore, the present review addresses the importance of marine-derived compounds, stressing new chemical entities with cosmeceutical potential from the marine natural resources and their mechanisms of action by which these compounds exert on the body functions as well as their related health benefits. Marine environments are the most important reservoir of biodiversity that provide biologically active substances whose potential is still to be discovered for application as pharmaceuticals, nutraceuticals, and cosmeceuticals. Marine organisms are not only an important renewable source of valuable bulk compounds used in cosmetic industry such as agar and carrageenan, which are used as gelling and thickening agents to increase the viscosity of cosmetic formulations, but also of small molecules such as ectoine (to promote skin hydration), trichodin A (to prevent product alteration caused by microbial contamination), and mytiloxanthin (as a coloring agent). Marine-derived molecules can also function as active ingredients, being the main compounds that determine the function of cosmeceuticals such as anti-tyrosinase (kojic acid), antiacne (sargafuran), whitening (chrysophanol), UV protection (scytonemin, mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs)), antioxidants, and anti-wrinkle (astaxanthin and PUFAs)., Competing Interests: The authors declare no conflict of interest.

Background: Protocatechuic acid has reported containing antioxidant effects. However, information on its other biological activities such as anti-wrinkle properties is limited AIMS: The objective of this study was to evaluate an antioxidant, collagen synthesis, MMP-1 inhibition (in vitro), and anti-wrinkle (in vivo) effects of protocatechuic acid (PCA) as a potent ingredient for wrinkle-care cosmetic., Methods: Antioxidant effect was evaluated based on its scavenging activity for free radicals (DPPH, ABTS+). To evaluate the anti-skin aging potency of PCA, levels of MMP-1 and type I procollagen were measured using an ELISA kit in cultured human dermal fibroblasts. To further investigate if PCA could increase collagen synthesis, full-thickness human skin explants were immunostained with an anti-collagen I antibody. In an in vivo study, 22 female subjects were enrolled in a placebo-controlled trial. Facial wrinkle, especially crow's feet around eyes, was treated with lotion-containing 0.02% PCA for 8 weeks and compared with the placebo., Results: In in vitro study, PCA showed high antioxidant activ ity. PCA also showed potential to induce the synthesis of type I collagen in human dermal fibroblast and skin explants. It inhibited MMP-1 secretion from UVA-irradiated human dermal fibroblast. An in vivo study, treatment with lotion-containing 0.02% PCA for 8 weeks significantly reduced the percentage of all skin wrinkle parameters., Conclusion: Based on the results of in vitro assays and in vivo skin testing in human subjects, PCA shows potential in anti-wrinkle or anti-skin aging treatments., (© 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Background: Aging skin is a gradual physiological process associated with functional and structural changes of the skin. Both intrinsic and extrinsic factors influence skin aging by the involvement of multiple pathways. Restoring natural skin conditions requires a multi-targeted approach. Recent developments in both bioactive peptides and microneedle delivery system have presented an opportunity for tackling premature skin aging., Aims: This study was aimed at evaluating the dermal tolerability and efficacy of hyaluronic acid-based microneedle patches loaded with bioactives for restoration of the skin properties including hydration, wrinkle reduction, density, and thickness., Patients/methods: The test product of HA-MNs comprises arginine/lysine polypeptide, acetyl octapeptide-3, palmitoyl tripeptide-5, adenosine, and seaweed extracts. In the monocentric 12-week clinical trial, the HA-MNs patches were applied to the outer corner of the right and left eye and a defined area on the volar forearm on healthy subjects with aged skin. Instrumental analysis of skin properties was determined., Results: The product was tolerated excellently; none of the subjects reported any primary or cumulative skin reactions. Assessment of measurable skin properties provides insight into the general effectiveness: The fine lines/wrinkles showed 25.8% noticeable decrease; the skin hydration measurements demonstrated 15.4% improvement; the skin density and thickness in the dermis increased 14.2% and 12.9%, respectively., Conclusions: The composition of the microneedle patches works in a multi-targeted manner and all ingredients might possibly be acted synergistically for the improvement of skin structure, function, and appearance. The study has demonstrated the overall usefulness of the HA-MNs with careful formulation for skin care applications., (© 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Background: Imiquimod 5% cream is currently approved to treat several dermatologic conditions including actinic keratoses (AK), superficial basal cell carcinoma (sBCC), and genital warts. However, there are numerous studies published on the alternative off-label uses of imiquimod cream. Photoaging of facial skin is an important use for topical skin treatments, yet few studies have evaluated the effect of imiquimod cream for this dermatological condition., Methods: This was a prospective, noncomparative pilot study. We included 15 healthy subjects; out of them, 11 subjects completed the study. The subjects were instructed to apply imiquimod 5% cream to the periorbital area on three nonconsecutive days per week for eight consecutive weeks. Photographs were obtained at baseline and after 8 weeks of treatment. Improvement in overall periorbital skin appearance was assessed by an independent investigator who compared the baseline and post-treatment clinical photographs. In addition, post-treatment self-assessment was completed by the subjects using a 5-point Likert scale., Results: Eleven of the 15 subjects completed the 8-week regimen. Eight participants (72.7%) noticed at least a fair improvement in periorbital skin changes based on the self-assessed 5-point Likert scale. Quartile score was also assessed by the investigator which indicated that seven subjects (63.6%) had at least 26% improvement. Based on Fitzpatrick wrinkle-scoring system, there was a significant reduction in the subjects' wrinkle severity following treatment (6.8 [mean] ± 1.7 [SD] vs 4.6 ± 2.5 [P < 0.005])., Conclusions: Imiquimod 5% cream may be a safe alternative anti-aging treatment. Larger scale studies are needed to confirm these results., (© 2019 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

In recent years, the natural ingredients are in high demand in formulating the cosmetic products. Seaweed polysaccharides signify the attractive natural ingredient with a wide range of functional properties that are expected for cosmeceutical formulations. The present work aimed to study the skin protection ability of polysaccharides extracted from Sargassum vachellianum (SvP), Sargassum horneri (ShoP) and Sargassum hemiphyllum (SheP). The extracted crude polysaccharides were characterized by HPLC and FTIR, which revealed that the polysaccharides are fucose-containing sulfated polysaccharides. Skin whitening and anti-wrinkling activity were analyzed by the ability to inhibit tyrosinase and elastase. The results revealed that the ShoP showed maximum tyrosinase inhibition (64.72 ± 0.46%) and SvP exhibited considerable elastase inhibition (30.12 ± 0.33%). The maximum moisture absorption (79.7 ± 0.62%) and retention (68.99 ± 0.64%) ability were observed in ShoP. The antioxidant activity was estimated by DPPH, superoxide radical scavenging, reducing power and total antioxidant activity. All the tested polysaccharides showed antioxidant activity in a dose-dependent manner, among them ShoP exhibited maximum total antioxidant (80.93 ± 0.17%) and superoxide radical scavenging activity (67.4 ± 0.42%) whereas SheP showed maximum DPPH radical scavenging activity (74.56 ± 0.10%). Therefore, the present study indicates the potential of polysaccharides, ShoP, SvP and SheP as a promising cosmetic ingredient in cosmeceuticals., (Copyright © 2019. Published by Elsevier B.V.)

Background: During skin aging, a degeneration of connective tissue and decrease in hyaluronic acid polymers occur. Since platelet-rich plasma (PRP) contains growth factors and various cytokines, it was hypothesized that it could play a role in fibroblast activation and type I collagen expression in human fibroblasts., Objectives: This study was performed to assess the efficacy of autologous PRP injections for facial skin rejuvenation, measured by biometric instrumental evaluations and patient-reported outcomes., Patients and Methods: Patients signed an informed consent form. The EmCyte PurePRP ® system technology was used to produce neutrophil-poor PurePRP. The efficacy of the procedures was assessed by biometric parameters, and a patient outcome a self-assessment questionnaire on each visit and at 6-month follow-up., Results: Eleven volunteers were included in the study, receiving 3 PurePRP ® treatments. A significant decrease in brown spot counts and area (P < 0.05) was seen after 3 months. Wrinkle count and volume were significantly reduced (P < 0.05 for total wrinkle appearance). Skin firmness parameters were significantly improved. Skin redness was significantly improved after 169 days post-therapy for both the nasolabial and malar areas. A decrease in SLEB thickness was already noted at 2 months after the first injection, with an increase in SLEB density (P < 0.05 for both parameters), without affecting subcutaneous fat thickness. Self-assessment at 6-month follow-up revealed an average satisfaction score of >90%., Conclusions: A series of 3 PurePRP injections at 6-month follow-up resulted in significant skin rejuvenation as demonstrated by biometric parameters and confirmed by patient self-assessment score., (© 2018 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Background: Human skin aging is caused by several factors, such as UV irradiation, stress, hormone, and pollution. Wrinkle formation and skin pigmentation are representative features of skin aging. Although EGF and arbutin are used as anti-wrinkle and skin whitening agents, respectively, they have adverse effects on skin. When more cosmeceutical ingredients are added to cosmetic product, adverse effects are also accumulated. For these reasons, multifunctional and safe cosmetic ingredients are in demand. The aim of the present study is to investigate the novel anti-aging agents, AIMP1-derived peptide (AdP, INCI name: sh-oligopeptide-5/sh-oligopeptide SP) for cosmetic products., Methods: To assess the anti-wrinkle effect of AdP, collagen type I synthesis and fibroblast proliferation were determined on human fibroblasts. The anti-wrinkle effect of AdP was examined by ELISA and cell titer glo assay. To assess the whitening, melanin content and tyrosinase activity were determined on melanocytes. The whitening effect of AdP was examined by melanin measurement and enzyme activity assay. The safety of AdP was determined by cytotoxicity and immunogenicity, CCK-8 and TNF-α ELISA assay, respectively., Results: AdP treatment induced the collagen type I synthesis and fibroblast proliferation. Also, AdP treatment inhibited melanin synthesis by regulating tyrosinase activity. The anti-aging effect of AdP is more potent than EGF and albutin. AdP did not show adverse effects., Conclusion: These results show that AdP can be dual functional and safe cosmeceutical agent to prevent skin aging., (© 2018 Wiley Periodicals, Inc.)

Ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure is the primary cause of extrinsic skin aging, which results in skin hyperpigmentation and wrinkling. In this study, we investigated the whitening effect of (2 E ,5 E )-2,5-bis(3-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzylidene)cyclopentanone (BHCP) on B16F10 melanoma and its anti-wrinkle activity on Hs27 fibroblasts cells. BHCP was found to potently inhibit tyrosinase, with 50% inhibition concentration (IC 50 ) values of 1.10 µM and 8.18 µM for monophenolase (l-tyrosine) and diphenolase (l-DOPA), and the enzyme kinetics study revealed that BHCP is a competitive-type tyrosinase inhibitor. Furthermore, BHCP significantly inhibited melanin content and cellular tyrosinase activity, and downregulated the levels of microphthalmia-associated transcription factor (MITF), phosphorylated levels of cAMP response element-binding (CREB) protein, and tyrosinase in α-melanocyte stimulating hormone (α-MSH)-induced B16F10 melanoma cells. Moreover, BHCP inhibited the phosphorylation of p65 and expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-1, MMP-9, MMP-12, and MMP-13) in Hs27 fibroblasts stimulated with UV radiation. Therefore, our results demonstrate that BHCP may be a good candidate for the development of therapeutic agents for diseases associated with hyperpigmentation and wrinkling.

Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) is an insoluble, poorly permeable antioxidant with great biological value which acts as anti-aging and anti-wrinkle agent. To improve its permeability through topical application, the current study aimed at formulating oil/water (o/w) nanoemulsion (NE) as an efficient vehicle for delivering (CoQ10) through the skin barriers. The solubility of (CoQ10) was tested for various oils, surfactants (S), and co-surfactants (CoS). The NE region was determined by constructing pseudoternary phase diagrams. NE formulae containing 1, 2, and 3% w/w drug have been subjected to thermodynamic stability test. The formulae that passed thermodynamic stability tests were characterized by physical properties as pH, viscosity, refractive index, droplet size, zeta-potential, TEM, electroconductivity, in vitro release, and ex vivo permeation. The formula 'F2' containing 10% w/w isopropyl myristate (oil phase), 60% w/w of Tween 80: Transcutol HP mixture (S/CoS mix ) at ratio 2:1, 30% w/w water and 2% w/w drug was evaluated for its anti-wrinkle efficiency using an animal model. The 'F2' formula showed 11.76 ± 1.1 nm droplet size, 1.4260 ± 0.0016 refractive index, 0.228 PDI, -14.7 ± 1.23 mv zeta potential, 7.06 ± 0.051 pH, 199.05 ± 0.35 cp viscosity, and the highest percentage of drug release in the selected dissolution media. About 47.21% of the drug was released in phosphate buffer 7.4 containing 5% w/v Labrasol and 5% w/v isopropyl alcohol through 24 h. It also showed the highest drug flux (J ss  = 3.164 µg/cm 2 /h), enhancement ratio (E r  = 8.32), and permeability coefficient (K p  = 22.14 × 10 -4 cm 2 /h). CoQ10 NE reduced the skin wrinkles and gave the skin smooth appearance. Our investigation suggests the potential use of NE as a vehicle for enhancing solubility and permeability of CoQ10 and thus improving its anti-wrinkle efficiency.

Although rice bran consumption is reportedly has numerous beneficial effects on human health, the relationship between rice bran and the prevention of photoaging has not been investigated in detail. We sought to investigate whether consumption of rice bran supplement (RBS) can elicit preventive effects against UVB-induced photoaging in vivo. Dorsal skin sections of hairless mice were exposed to UVB over 16 weeks. RBS consumption suppressed UVB-induced wrinkle formation and inhibited the loss of water content and epidermal thickening in the mouse skin. Western blot and immunohistochemical analyses revealed that repeated exposure to UVB upregulated matrix metalloproteinase-13 (MMP-13) and cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) expression, while consumption of RBS suppressed MMP-13 and COX-2 expression, as well as mitogen-activated protein kinase (MAPK) signaling pathways. These findings suggest that RBS could be a potential bioactive ingredient in nutricosmetics to inhibit wrinkle formation and water content loss via the suppression of COX-2 and MMP-13 expression.

Objective: Although an ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch has been developed to improve anti-wrinkle effects, an efficacy evaluation with a control group has not yet been performed. In this study, the anti-wrinkle effect of an ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch was evaluated in a double-blind clinical study with a control group. In addition, a cumulative skin irritation and sensitization potential of the ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch was performed., Methods: Twenty-three subjects were selected for anti-wrinkle effect evaluation in a double-blind clinical study. Subjects were divided into two groups. Group I subjects applied an ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch on a crow's feet area on the left side of the face and a control sample on a crow's feet area on the right side of the face every 4 days. Group II subjects placed the same patches on opposite sides of the face. Global Photodamage Score and skin replica analysis were conducted by visual inspection and skin visiometer, respectively. A skin irritation and sensitization assessment was performed on 51 subjects using the modified Shelanski & Shelanski procedure. Cumulative skin irritation potential and skin sensitization of the ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch and control sample were evaluated., Results: Skin treated with the ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch showed a statistically significant improvement in both the Global Photodamage Score and visiometer R values (P < 0.05) compared with the control sample. The R2 value (maximum roughness), in particular, showed a highly significant improvement (P < 0.01). The skin irritation and sensitization assessment demonstrated that the ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch did not induce any cumulative skin irritation potential or skin sensitization., Conclusions: An ascorbic acid-loaded dissolving microneedle patch produced a significant anti-wrinkle effect without skin irritation and sensitization problems. This cosmetic dissolving microneedle patch can be used efficiently in the anti-wrinkle cosmetic field with patient convenience., (© 2015 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.)

The anti-wrinkle activity of defatted rosemary extract (DER) was assessed, and its effect was optimized by encapsulation in transferosomes (TFs). DER was standardized to a rosmarinic acid content of 4.58 ± 0.023 mg% using reversed-phase high performance liquid chromatography (Rp-HPLC), and its components were identified by HPLC-diode array detection-tandem mass spectrometry. In vitro free radical scavenging assays showed DER had high free radical scavenging activity against 2,2-diphenyl-2-picryl hydrazyl, 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid), and superoxide radicals. DER also inhibited bleaching of β-carotene with high Fe(III) and Fe(II) chelating ability. In vivo anti-wrinkle activities of topically applied DER (20, 50, and 100 mg) and a TF formulation (TF4, 20 mg of DER) were evaluated in UVB-irradiated mice using a wrinkle scoring method, metalloproteinase (MMP) expression, and histopathology. Among the nanovesicles, TF4 was the most deformable, and had an acceptable size and encapsulation efficiency and enhanced permeation of DER through rat skin compared with unencapsulated DER. DER (50 and 100 mg) and TF4 significantly inhibited MMP-2 and MMP-9 expression and improved wrinkle scores. DER and TF4 moderately decreased epidermal thickness without pigmentation. DER is a potent natural antioxidant for combating skin aging. Moreover, encapsulation of DER in TFs will enhance its skin permeation and anti-wrinkle activity.

Background: Seungma-Galgeun-Tang (SMGGT), a traditional herbal medicinal formula, has been used to treat various skin problems such as inflammation and rashes in Korean traditional medicine. In order to clarify the scientific evidence for the biological efficacy of SMGGT on the prevention of skin aging and in particular wrinkle formation, molecular anti-wrinkle parameters were evaluated in cultured human dermal fibroblasts., Methods: Standard SMGGT was prepared from KFDA-certified herbal medicines and the chemical fingerprint of SMGGT was verified by HPLC-ESI-MS to insure the quality of SMGGT. To evaluate the inhibitory effects of SMGGT on the synthesis of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and type-1 procollagen, the content of MMP-1 and type-1 procollagen synthesizing enzymes in cultured human dermal fibroblasts were measured using an ELISA kit and Western Blot, respectively., Results: The treatment of SMGGT water extract significantly inhibited the production of MMP-1 and promoted type-1 procollagen synthesis concentration dependently., Conclusions: These results suggest that SMGGT has the potential to prevent wrinkle formation by down-regulating MMP-1 and up-regulating type-1 procollagen in human dermal fibroblasts.

The beneficial effects of probiotics are now widely reported, although there are only a few studies on their anti-aging effects. We have found that Lactobacillus plantarum HY7714 (HY7714) improves skin hydration and has anti-photoaging effects, and in the present study, we have further evaluated the anti-aging effect of HY7714 via a randomized, double blind, placebo-controlled clinical trial. The trial included 110 volunteers aged 41 and 59 years who have dry skin and wrinkles. Participants took 1 × 10(10) CFU/day of HY7714 (probiotic group) or a placebo (placebo group) for 12 weeks. Skin hydration, wrinkles, skin gloss, and skin elasticity were measured every 4 weeks during the study period. There were significant increases in the skin water content in the face (p < 0.01) and hands (p < 0.05) at week 12 in the probiotic group. Transepidermal water loss decreased significantly in both groups at weeks 4, 8, and 12 (p < 0.001 compared with baseline), and was suppressed to a greater extent in the face and forearm in the probiotic group at week 12. Volunteers in the probiotic group had a significant reduction in wrinkle depth at week 12, and skin gloss was also significantly improved by week 12. Finally, skin elasticity in the probiotic group improved by 13.17% (p < 0.05 vs. controls) after 4 weeks and by 21.73% (p < 0.01 vs. controls) after 12 weeks. These findings are preliminary confirmation of the anti-aging benefit to the skin of L. plantarum HY7714 as a nutricosmetic agent.

Adipose-derived mesenchymal stem cells (AdMSCs) have been reported to have therapeutic benefit in skin. The aim of this study was to examine the effects of AdMSCs in UV-irradiated human dermal fibroblasts (HDFs) for therapeutic potential in skin wrinkling. UV irradiation, a model naturally mimic skin wrinkle formation, is known to increase matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1), making MMP-1 a target for skin photoaging. Our findings identified that AdMSCs reduce MMP-1 level in UV-irradiated HDFs and increase type 1 procollagen in HDFs. A dose-dependent increase in type 1 procollagen was confirmed by AdMSC-conditioned medium. Importantly, our current findings showing the effects of AdMSCs on the induction of MMP-1 in UV-radiated HDFs and the expression of collagen in HDFs can provide an evidence of relationship between MMP-1 and procollagen production for the protection against wrinkle formation. Collectively, AdMSCs may contribute to anti-wrinkle effects in skin but further experiments are needed to identify the mechanism.

Yuja (Citrus junos) has been cultivated and used for food and medicinal purposes in China and Korea. Its antioxidant, anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, and whitening effects were evaluated in HaCaT, HDF, and B16F10 cells. UVB has been known to cause cellular stress and the production of reactive oxygen species (ROS). Ambivalence of oxidative stress has been reported; however, excessive levels of ROS contribute to skin aging through the loss of elasticity and collagen fibers of connective tissue in the dermis. Skin aging is one of the biological processes that is affected by various factors, including UVB. Pro-Collagen I and hyaluronic acid contents were measured in UVB-irradiated HaCaT and HDF cells to evaluate the anti-wrinkle and moisturizing effects of Yuja-peel (YJP) fractions in -EA (ethyl acetate), -Hex (hexane), and -BuOH (butanol). The expression of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) involved in collagen degradation was confirmed to be inhibited by YJP fractions at both the protein and mRNA levels. Filaggrin and serine palmitoyltransferase (SPT), which are moisturizing factors, were induced by YJP fractions. B16F10 cells were treated with α-MSH to induce hyperpigmentation, and then the whitening efficacy of YJP fractions was verified by observing a decrease in melanin content. Overall, our results contribute to the development of various novel skin-improving cosmetics and pharmaceuticals with YJP fractions as active ingredients. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Selaginellaceae plants are used in cosmetics to limit skin aging. This study is the first to investigate the anti-aging effects of Selaginella rossii (SR) on ultraviolet B (UVB)- and oxidative stress-induced skin cells. The 95% ethanol extract of Selaginella rossii (SR95E) contained much higher amounts of amentoflavone (AMF), an active compound, than other Selaginellaceae plants and was more effective in inhibiting matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression in CCD-986sk fibroblasts. SR95E significantly decreased UVB-induced MMP-1, MMP-2, MMP-3 and MMP-9 expression and enhanced procollagen type I C-peptide content and mRNA expression of collagen type I alpha (COL1A)1 and COL1A2 in CCD-986sk fibroblasts. In HaCaT keratinocytes, SR95E treatment also dose-dependently decreased UVB-induced MMP-1 concentration and MMP-1, MMP-2, MMP-3 and MMP-9 mRNA expression. Moreover, SR95E treatment markedly inhibited UVB-induced c-Jun N-terminal kinase and p38 mitogen-activated protein kinase signaling and nuclear factor kappa-B signaling in HaCaT cells. Furthermore, SR95E and AMF markedly regulated the 2,2′-azobis(2-amidinopropane) dihydrochloride (AAPH)-induced expression of cellular senescence-related markers, including p16, p21 and LMNB1, in HaCaT cells. Overall, this study indicates that SR may have potential as a functional material on preventing UVB- and AAPH-induced skin aging and wrinkles. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Collagen forms a dermal matrix in the skin. Biosynthesis and decomposition of collagen are the major processes in skin aging. Propolis is rich in flavonoids and phenolic compounds, which are known to be effective in preventing skin aging, including the enhancement of fibroblast proliferation, activation, and growth capacity. Objectives: The aim of this study was to develop a poorly soluble propolis extract as an active ingredient in cosmetic products for anti‐aging efficacy. Methods & Results: Polymeric nanoparticles containing propolis extract, polyethylene glycol 400, and poloxamer 407 were prepared via a temperature‐induced phase transition method. The particle size of the polymeric nanoparticles was approximately 20.75 nm. The results of an in vitro procollagen type I carboxy‐terminal peptide assay and a matrix metalloproteinase‐1 inhibition assay showed that the polymeric nanoparticles increased collagen production by 19.81%–24.59% compared to blank (p < 0.05), and significantly reduced intracellular collagenase activity by 7.46%–31.52% compared to blank (p < 0.05). In a clinical trial, polymeric nanoparticles in a cosmetic formulation were applied around the eyes of 24 female subjects for 8 weeks. Five skin parameters were significantly improved after the application of the test ampoule. Visual evaluation using the Global Photo Damage Score showed a significant reduction in wrinkles after the application of the test ampoules (p < 0.001). Conclusions: This study outlines the development of stable polymeric nanoparticles containing poorly soluble propolis in a cosmetic formulation, and its efficacy in wrinkle improvement. The developed polymeric nanoparticles were effective for alleviating wrinkles and can be used for pharmaceutical applications that utilize propolis as antiseptic, anti‐inflammatory, antimycotic, antifungal, antibacterial, antiulcer, anticancer, and immunomodulatory agents. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

• A novel supramolecular ionic liquid (P-M IL) was synthesized and fully characterized. • An efficient self-assembled peptide drug delivery system (P-M IL /AKE) was constructed, and enhanced AKE's permeability, and bioactivity. • For the first time, quantum chemical calculations, homology modeling, molecular docking and binding free energy calculations were used to analyze the structural stability of the system, construct the 3D model, explore the interaction mode and reveal the theoretical basis of anti-wrinkle effect. • In vitro penetration experiments showed that P-M IL increased the cumulative absorption of AKE in the skin by more than five times, and demonstrated the biocompatibility and transdermal mechanism. • In vitro, in vivo and clinical anti-wrinkle experiments showed that P-M IL/AKE can significantly increase collagen protein secretion by human fibroblasts, improved skin photoaging and reduce the areas and volume of wrinkle in the eyes and tail. Most peptide drugs have good biological activity and safety, but their stability and permeability are poor, limiting their applications in the field of local drug delivery. Snake venom peptide (AKE) is a tripeptide with good anti-wrinkle effects, but its weak esterophilicity, poor penetration, and low bioavailability limit its full anti-wrinkle potential. To address this issue, a bioactive ionic liquid (P-M IL) was prepared and an efficient self-assembled peptide drug delivery system was constructed through AKE loading, which increased the cumulative absorption of AKE in the skin by more than five-fold, resulting in good biocompatibility. Further, P-M IL/AKE can significantly increase collagen protein secretion by human fibroblasts, improved skin photoaging and reduce the areas and volume of wrinkle in the eye tail lines. In addition, for the first time, quantum chemical calculations, homology modeling, molecular docking and binding free energy calculations were used to analyze the structural stability of the system, construct the 3D model, explore the interaction mode and reveal the theoretical basis of anti-wrinkle effect. Therefore, this supramolecular self-assembled transdermal drug delivery system has potential advantages, providing a novel approach for the highly efficient and non-invasive delivery of peptide drugs. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Solar ultraviolet (sUV) radiation remains a major cause of skin aging. Nelumbo nucifera (lotus) is a well-known edible plant widely grown in Asia, including Korea, China, and Japan. The lotus consists of flowers, leaves, stems, and seeds, and all parts reportedly possess nutritional and medical values. Traditionally, lotus flowers, leaves, stems, and seeds have been used as antidiarrheal agents, diuretics, antipyretics, and antimicrobial and antihyperlipidemic agents. In addition, the Nelumbo nucifera lotus embryo has been shown to possess sedative and antipyretic properties and can relieve hemostatic thirst and treat eye diseases. Recently, Nelumbo nucifera lotus flower extract has been widely used in cosmetics due to its ability to reduce wrinkles and its whitening effects. Numerous cosmetics using Nelumbo nucifera lotus embryo extracts are commercially available. However, the active components of Nelumbo nucifera remain elusive. Lotusine is a phytochemical and soluble alkaloid found in lotus embryos. Herein, we examined the anti-wrinkle effect of lotusine using sUV-exposed human keratinocytes. We observed that lotusine reduced sUV-induced matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 expression and modulated transcriptional activities of activator protein (AP)-1 and nuclear factor kappa B (NF-κB). sUV-induced AP-1 and NF-κB activity could be activated via multiple signal transduction cascades, including the p38 MAPK, JNK, ERK1/2, and Akt pathways in the skin. Lotusine inhibited the MEK1/2-ERK1/2-p90RSK, MKK3/6-p38, and Akt-p70S6K pathways. Overall, our findings suggest that lotusine has potential benefits related to MMP-1 expression and skin aging following sUV exposure. Hence, the lotus can be developed as a valuable functional food and cosmetic material. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

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Functional foods to prevent aging, particularly skin aging, have grown in popularity as society ages and science uncovers the pathological mechanisms of aging. In this study, we used processed ginseng, one of the famous functional foods, along with fermentation utilizing the novel Aspergillus niger strain KHNT-1 to enhance its value and efficacy. We successfully produced fermented black ginseng (FBG) and investigated its anti-skin aging properties, such as anti-melanogenic, anti-wrinkle, and antioxidant activities. The results showed that FBG at 100 μg/mL inhibited tyrosinase and melanin production in IBMX-stimulated B16F10 cells. FBG significantly reduced tyrosinase, TYRP-1, and MITF mRNA expression. Moreover, FBG stimulated anti-wrinkle effects in UVB-irradiated human dermal fibroblast (FBG) cells by inhibiting elastase activity, and decreasing MMP-1 and MMP-9 while increasing COL-1 mRNA expression. Furthermore, FBG showed antioxidant activity by reducing ROS levels in H2O2-induced HaCat cells. All tests showed that FBG had better anti-melanogenic, anti-wrinkle, and antioxidant activities than black ginseng (BG) and white ginseng (WG). Interestingly, FBG had lower toxicity in B16F10, HDF, and HaCat cells compared with BG. Thus, this study discovers the underlying mechanism of FBG as a functional material with anti-skin-aging properties.

Abstract: Aged skin, featured with dryness and wrinkles, has received mounting attention due to its adverse influences on beauty. β-Sitosterol and vermicularin are two common active ingredients of Thamnolia vermicularis (Sw.) Ach., a traditional Chinese medicine, of which the anti-aging effect has been discovered. Their protective performance against skin aging was assayed by co-culturing with skin cells in this work. Results showed that β-sitosterol promoted the biosynthesis of hyaluronic acid by increasing the expression of hyaluronic acid synthases in fibroblasts and enhanced the expression of skin barrier functional proteins including aquaporin 3, loricrin, filaggrin and involucrin in keratinocytes, which conduced to the moisture retention within skin. Moreover, vermicularin might function as an anti-wrinkle agent by preventing the loss of collagen type I. Specifically, vermicularin reduced the amount of reactive oxygen species within hydrogen-peroxide-induced fibroblasts; together with suppressing the activation of mitogen-activated protein kinases, it could inhibit the production of matrix metalloproteinases-1. The present research will contribute to the development of the compounds as anti-aging ingredients for future applications in cosmetic formulations and functional food as well as promote further studies of raw materials containing alike compounds.

The “modern” cosmetology industry is focusing on research devoted to discovering novel neurocosmetic functional ingredients that could improve the interactions between the skin and the nervous system. Many cosmetic companies have started to formulate neurocosmetic products that exhibit their activity on the cutaneous nervous system by affecting the skin’s neuromediators through different mechanisms of action. This review aims to clarify the definition of neurocosmetics, and to describe the features of some functional ingredients and products available on the market, with a look at the regulatory aspect. The attention is devoted to neurocosmetic ingredients for combating skin stress, explaining the stress pathways, which are also correlated with skin aging. “Neuro-relaxing” anti-aging ingredients derived from plant extracts and neurocosmetic strategies to combat inflammatory responses related to skin stress are presented. Afterwards, the molecular basis of sensitive skin and the suitable neurocosmetic ingredients to improve this problem are discussed. With the aim of presenting the major application of Botox-like ingredients as the first neurocosmetics on the market, skin aging is also introduced, and its theory is presented. To confirm the efficacy of the cosmetic products on the market, the concept of cosmetic claims is discussed.

• Density functional theory proves that LAA IL is connected by hydrogen bonds and can exist stably. • 5D LAA-Collagen peptide can penetrate the stratum corneum to the dermis and epidermis layers. • 5D-LAA collagen peptide can promote skin permeability. • 5D LAA-Collagen peptide has a good antioxidant capacity, increases skin hydration, and induces collagen production. • 5D LAA-Collagen peptide has improved the skin barrier function and delayed cell aging and death. Lactobionic acid-arginine (LAA) ionic liquid was prepared using an ion-exchange method. The LAA ionic liquid and five kinds of different molecular weights of collagen can self-assemble into spherical 5D LAA-Collagen peptides in solution. The 5D LAA-Collagen peptide has a small particle size, good stability, and biocompatibility, and can transdermally deliver collagen with different molecular weights to the epidermis and dermis through the skin. The activity and expression of IL-1β, MMP-1, and TNF-α decreased after adding 5D LAA-Collagen peptide. 5D LAA-Collagen peptide can inhibit MAPKs phosphorylation, activate the PI3K/AKT signaling pathway, increase the protein expression of Nrf2, and inhibit the high protein expression of Keapl to play an anti-aging role in multiple ways. The 5D LAA-Collagen peptide has a good antioxidant ability, can delay cell aging and death, and can reduce the length and number of facial wrinkles, fine facial lines, and texture to achieve an anti-wrinkle effect. Therefore, 5D LAA-Collagen peptide has potential applications in the field of cosmetics. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background: Seungma-Galgeun-Tang (SMGGT), a traditional herbal medicinal formula, has been used to treat various skin problems such as inflammation and rashes in Korean traditional medicine. In order to clarify the scientific evidence for the biological efficacy of SMGGT on the prevention of skin aging and in particular wrinkle formation, molecular anti-wrinkle parameters were evaluated in cultured human dermal fibroblasts. Methods: Standard SMGGT was prepared from KFDA-certified herbal medicines and the chemical fingerprint of SMGGT was verified by HPLC-ESI-MS to insure the quality of SMGGT. To evaluate the inhibitory effects of SMGGT on the synthesis of matrix metalloproteinase-1 (MMP-1) and type-1 procollagen, the content of MMP-1 and type-1 procollagen synthesizing enzymes in cultured human dermal fibroblasts were measured using an ELISA kit and Western Blot, respectively. Results: The treatment of SMGGT water extract significantly inhibited the production of MMP-1 and promoted type-1 procollagen synthesis concentration dependently. Conclusions: These results suggest that SMGGT has the potential to prevent wrinkle formation by down-regulating MMP-1 and up-regulating type-1 procollagen in human dermal fibroblasts. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: Chronic exposure to solar ultraviolet (UV) light causes skin photoaging. Many studies have shown that naturally occurring phytochemicals have anti-photoaging effects, but their direct target molecule(s) and mechanism(s) remain unclear. We found that myricetin, a major flavonoid in berries and red wine, inhibited wrinkle formation in mouse skin induced by chronic UVB irradiation (0.18J/cm2, 3 days/week for 15 weeks). Myricetin treatment reduced UVB-induced epidermal thickening of mouse skin and also suppressed UVB-induced matrix metalloproteinase-9 (MMP-9) protein expression and enzyme activity. Myricetin appeared to exert its anti-aging effects by suppressing UVB-induced Raf kinase activity and subsequent attenuation of UVB-induced phosphorylation of MEK and ERK in mouse skin. In vitro and in vivo pull-down assays revealed that myricetin bound with Raf in an ATP-noncompetitive manner. Overall, these results indicate that myricetin exerts potent anti-photoaging activity by regulating MMP-9 expression through the suppression of Raf kinase activity. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]