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Skin acts as a barrier between the environment and internal organs and performs functions that are critical for the preservation of body homeostasis. In mammals, a complex network of circadian clocks and oscillators adapts physiology and behavior to environmental changes by generating circadian rhythms. These rhythms are induced in the central pacemaker and peripheral tissues by similar transcriptional-translational feedback loops involving clock genes. In this work, we investigated the presence of functional oscillators in the human skin by studying kinetics of clock gene expression in epidermal and dermal cells originating from the same donor and compared their characteristics. Primary cultures of fibroblasts, keratinocytes, and melanocytes were established from an abdominal biopsy and expression of clock genes following dexamethasone synchronization was assessed by qPCR. An original mathematical method was developed to analyze simultaneously up to nine clock genes. By fitting the oscillations to a common period, the phase relationships of the genes could be determined accurately. We thereby show the presence of functional circadian machinery in each cell type. These clockworks display specific periods and phase relationships between clock genes, suggesting regulatory mechanisms that are particular to each cell type. Taken together, our data demonstrate that skin has a complex circadian organization. Oscillators are present not only in fibroblasts but also in epidermal keratinocytes and melanocytes and are likely to act in coordination to drive rhythmic functions within the skin.

Melanin play a major role in human skin protection and their biosynthesis is vital. Due to their color, they contribute to the skin pigmentation. Tyrosinase is a key enzyme involved in the first stage of melanin synthesis, catalyzing the transformation of tyrosine to l-dopaquinone. The aim of the present study was to study molecules able to inhibit melanin synthesis through inhibition of tyrosinase and their potential use in treating pigmentation-related disorders. We targeted amides obtained from coupling p-hydroxycinnamic acid derivatives with phenylalkylamines. The biological activity was evaluated on human melanocytes by an assay which measures tyrosine-catalyzed L-Dopa oxidation. The most active amides were: trans-N-caffeoyltyramine, N-dihydrocaffeoyltyramine, and trans-N-dihydro-p-hydroxycinnamoyltyramine which induce complete inhibition at 0.1mM. At the latter concentration, kojic acid, which was used as the reference inhibitor, was inactive.

Tyrosinase is a copper-dependent enzyme which converts l- tyrosine to dopaquinone and is involved in different biological processes such as melanogenesis and skin hyperpigmentation. The purpose of this study was to investigate naturally occurring aurones (Z-benzylidenebenzofuran-3(2H)-one) and analogues as human tyrosinase inhibitors. Several aurones bearing hydroxyl groups on A-ring and different substituents on B-ring were synthesized and evaluated as inhibitors of human melanocyte-tyrosinase by an assay which measures tyrosinase-catalyzed l-Dopa oxidation. We found that unsubstituted aurones were weak inhibitors; however, derivatives with two or three hydroxyl groups preferably at 4,6 and 4' positions are able to induce significant tyrosinase inhibition. The most potent aurone was found to be the naturally occurring 4,6,4'-trihydroxyaurone which induces 75% inhibition at 0.1 mM concentration and is highly effective when compared to kojic acid, one of the best tyrosinase inhibitors known so far (the latter is completely inactive at such concentrations). Active aurones are devoid of toxic effects as shown by in vivo studies.

The inducible epidermal beta-defensins and the chemokine macrophage inflammatory protein-3alpha (MIP-3alpha/CCL20) are important mediators involved in innate and adaptive immunity and in the recruitment of immune cells. The aim of our study was to determine whether calcium could trigger the induction of beta-defensins (hBD-2 and hBD-3) mRNA and the release of MIP-3alpha by normal human keratinocyte monolayers. Epidermal cells derived from foreskin were cultured in defined medium supplemented with different calcium levels (0.09, 0.8 and 1.7 mM) and were stimulated or not with the pro-inflammatory cytokines tumor necrosis factor-alpha (TNF-alpha 1-500 ng/ml) or interferon-gamma (INF-gamma 1-100 ng/ml). A high calcium concentration (1.7 mM) alone applied in culture medium for 4 days was sufficient to induce hBD-2 and hBD-3 mRNA expression. Whatever interindividual variability in the expression of hBD-2 and hBD-3 mRNA and MIP-3alpha secretion, the addition of TNF-alpha for a short duration (26h), initiated a dose-dependent and coordinated up-regulation of hBD-2 and hBD-3 mRNA and MIP-3alpha release in keratinocyte cultures. Unlike hBD-2 and hBD-3 mRNA was preferentially stimulated by IFN-gamma rather than TNF-alpha. In our experimental conditions, L-isoleucine, described to stimulate beta-defensin in bovine epithelial cells, did not exert any effect either on hBD-2 and hBD-3 transcripts or MIP-3alpha protein. Taken together, these results confirm the major role of the maturation/differentiation process of normal human keratinocytes in the induction of inducible beta-defensins and MIP-3alpha chemokine, which contribute in vivo to the immunosurveillance of the skin barrier function.

The European Community directive, imposing that effects claimed for cosmetic actives must be validated using non-animal procedures, has stimulated the use of in vitro models for pharmacotoxicological trials. In this paper, an efficacy study of a new biopeptide, a hydrolysate obtained by fermentation of milk proteins, was performed using an in vitro skin equivalent (SE). This SE is obtained by seeding normal human keratinocytes onto a dermal equivalent comprising a collagen-glycosaminoglycan(GAG)-chitosan porous matrix populated by normal human fibroblasts, which neosynthesize their own extracellular matrix (ECM). A gel containing 2% milk biopeptide was applied topically (10 microliters) every 2 days during 15 days. Subsequent investigations of the biopeptide effects were based on morphological criteria after histological analysis and on synthesis of ECM components. Collagen and GAG synthesis were measured by tritiated proline, glucosamine and Na2(35)SO4 incorporation. Qualitatively, the histological features of the biopeptide-treated SEs showed a thicker epidermis than the untreated control SEs, where only a few layers of stratum corneum were observed. The dermal porous matrix seems to be more filled by neosynthesized ECM than the control. Quantitatively, milk biopeptide treatment induced a significant activation of hyaluronic acid (+46%) and sulfated GAG (+53%) synthesis, whereas only non-significant increases of total protein and collagen synthesis were observed (Student's test, p < 0.001).The European Community directive, imposing that effects claimed for cosmetic actives must be validated using non-animal procedures, has stimulated the use of in vitro models for pharmacotoxicological trials. In this paper, an efficacy study of a new biopeptide, a hydrolysate obtained by fermentation of milk proteins, was performed using an in vitro skin equivalent (SE). This SE is obtained by seeding normal human keratinocytes onto a dermal equivalent comprising a collagen-glycosaminoglycan(GAG)-chitosan porous matrix populated by normal human fibroblasts, which neosynthesize their own extracellular matrix (ECM). A gel containing 2% milk biopeptide was applied topically (10 microliters) every 2 days during 15 days. Subsequent investigations of the biopeptide effects were based on morphological criteria after histological analysis and on synthesis of ECM components. Collagen and GAG synthesis were measured by tritiated proline, glucosamine and Na2(35)SO4 incorporation. Qualitatively, the histological features of the biopeptide-treated SEs showed a thicker epidermis than the untreated control SEs, where only a few layers of stratum corneum were observed. The dermal porous matrix seems to be more filled by neosynthesized ECM than the control. Quantitatively, milk biopeptide treatment induced a significant activation of hyaluronic acid (+46%) and sulfated GAG (+53%) synthesis, whereas only non-significant increases of total protein and collagen synthesis were observed (Student's test, p < 0.001).

Transfer of the melanocyte-specific and lysosome-related organelle, the melanosome, from melanocytes to keratinocytes is crucial for the protection of the skin against harmful ultraviolet radiation (UVR)--our main physiological cutaneous stressor. However, this commonplace event remains a most enigmatic process despite several early hypotheses. Recently, we and others have proposed a role for filopodia in melanin transfer, although conclusive experimental proof remained elusive. Using known filopodial markers (MyoX/Cdc42) and the filopodial disrupter, low-dose cytochalasin-B, we demonstrate here a requirement for filopodia in melanosome transfer from melanocytes to keratinocytes and also, unexpectedly, between keratinocytes. Melanin distribution throughout the skin represents the key phenotypic event in skin pigmentation. Melanocyte filopodia were also necessary for UVR-stimulated melanosome transfer, as this was also inhibited by MyoX knockdown and low-dose cytochalasin-B. Knockdown of keratinocyte MyoX protein, in its capacity as a phagocytosis effector, resulted in the inhibition of melanin uptake by keratinocytes. This indicates a central role for phagocytosis by keratinocytes of melanocyte filopodia. In summary, we propose a new model for the regulation of pigmentation in human skin cells under both constitutive and facultative (post-UVR) conditions, which we call the "filopodial-phagocytosis model." This model also provides a unique and highly accessible way to study lysosome-related organelle movement between mammalian cells.

[corrected] The signs of aging may originate from natural processes or from exposure to the sun, wind, or other environmental factors. To evaluate the anti-aging effects of potential agents researchers must first identify and be able to quantify epidermal markers that change with aging. This paper summarizes the results of studies conducted to evaluate the transcriptional effects of an Aframomum angustifolium seed extract and Malva Sylvestris extract, and the antiaging efficacy of a skin care product containing the Aframomum angustifolium seed extract.The transcriptional effect of an Aframomum angustifolium seed extract on normal human keratinocytes (NHKs) and normal human fibroblasts (NHF) was evaluated in vitro with the use of a low-density DNA array technology. The Malva Sylvestris extract was studied with a commercial DNA macroarray and by a real-time quantitative reverse transcriptase-polymerase chain reaction. The in vitro anti-aging activities of the Malva sylvestris extract were compared with those of all-trans retinoic acid (RA), a well-established topical therapy for photodamage and wrinkles. The genes studied were known to be modified by RA. The anti-aging efficacy of a facial skin care product containing Aframomum angustifolium seed extract was evaluated in a single-center study using image processing analysis and in a 2-center study by evaluation of the photographs by the investigator, independent evaluators, and subjects.In general, the Aframomum angustifolium seed extract strongly modified the gene expression profiles of NHKs and weakly modified the gene expression profiles of NHFs. After incubation with Aframomum angustifolium seed extract, the expressions of 3 antioxidant genes (metallothionein 1, metallothionein 2, and thioredoxin) were increased in NHKs, while expressions of 1 antioxidant gene (glutathione peroxidase) was increased in NHFs. Concerning the Malva sylvestris extract, a cDNA macro-array technology experiment with the reconstructed human epidermis model showed that some genes modulated by treatment with the Malva sylvestris extract are also regulated by RA treatment indicating a similar activity at the mRNA level. In the single-center study, a facial skin care product containing the Aframomum angustifolium seed extract significantly improved the homogeneity of the skin. The areas of the detected objects (skin imperfections) decreased significantly on each studied area of the face and the variance decreased significantly over the entire face. In the 2-center study, 28% percent of the subjects reported a greater than 50% overall global improvement in their skin by the end of the study compared to 11% of the subjects after 4 weeks of treatment. Seventy-six percent of subjects said they would purchase the cream.The authors developed a low-density DNA chip method that permitted the study of the transcriptional effect of Malva Sylvestris extract and of Aframomum angustrifolium seed extract. The gene expression profiles obtained demonstrate the anti-aging properties of these compounds. An in vivo single-center study, performed and analyzed with an assay based on image processing analysis, demonstrated the antiwrinkle activity of a formulation containing the Aframomum angustifolium seed extract. The data obtained in the 2-center study suggests that the cosmeceutical containing Aframomum angustifolium seed extract produces a global rejuvenation effect in terms of redness, pigmentation, and fine lines similar to that noted utilizing an intense pulse light source.

Cell longevity is linked to sirtuins (silent information regulators), which belong to a family of enzymes implicated in gene silencing, apoptosis, fatty acid metabolism, and regulation of cellular life spans of organisms. Sirtuins are associated with genes that coordinate and optimize the functions of cells as cells struggle to survive in a stressful environment, as it is the case for skin cells. This study focuses on 1) yeast Kluyveromyces biopetides in stimulating the expression of sirtuin in human cutaneous cells and 2) the benefit for the skin of an active skin care product containing yeast Kluyveromyces biopetides.Silent mating type information regulation 2 homolog 1 (SIRT1) was investigated by immunostaining, Westem blotting, and cytometry on normal human skin cells in culture and on healthy skin samples ex vivo. SIRT7 are mammalian versions of the yeast SIR2 gene. Cellular integrity and aging was followed by comet assays measuring DNA fragmentation and beta galactosidase activity (a marker of senescence). The test product was yeast Kluyveromyces biopeptides. Thirty-three female subjects aged 37 to 64 years (mean 51.6 years) enrolled in the study. Subjects applied a formulation enriched in 1% of the yeast biopeptides SIRT1 activator once daily to the face and neck for 4 weeks. Dermatologists used a graded scale (1-9) to score fine lines and wrinkles, hydration, pigment color intensity, complexion radiance, skin density, firmness, complexion homogeneity, and texture of the skin before and after the first application and again after 4 weeks of use. A Pixel Skin method, based on an analysis of the gray-level variance and surface of imperfections (age-related parameters) from numerical pictures of the faces, was used to objectively measure the skin care efficacy.The yeast Kluyveromyces biopeptides 1) significantly increased SIRT1 expression in normal human dermal skin fibroblasts in vitro (+172%) and in epidermal cells of healthy human skin ex vivo and 2) decreased cell senescence and DNA fragmentation induced by ultraviolet-B (UVB) stress. At the end of the study, facial improvements could be seen on fine lines and wrinkles, hydration, pigmented spot color intensity, complexion radiance, firmness, complexion homogeneity, and texture. Improvement in hydration was significant immediately after the first application. Skin-pixel measurement and analysis show a significant reduction of the gray variance linked to pixel heterogeneity (-4.2%) and a significant reduction of the surface of skin imperfections (-30.4%). All the indicators from clinical evaluation to the objective measurements of the skin show a significant improvement of the aged skin.These results demonstrate the efficacy of the yeast Kluyveromyces biopeptides in activating SIRT 1 of human skin cells, improving their DNA resistance and senescence, and of a formulation enriched in this ingredient in treating multiple skin aging signs.

The lysyl oxidases lysyl oxidase (LOX) and lysyl oxidase-like (LOXL) are responsible for elastin cross-linking. It was shown recently that LOXL is essential for the elastic fibres homeostasis and for their maintenance at adult age. We first determined whether or not elastin, LOX and LOXL are less expressed during adulthood. The LOX and LOXL mRNA level, quantified by real-time reverse transcriptase-polymerase chain reaction decreased in adult skin fibroblasts compared with fibroblasts from children. In contrast, the elastin mRNA level remains stable at all ages. The goal of this study was to induce elastogenesis at the adult age. Therefore, both enzymes, and in particular LOXL, of which expression is the most affected by age, could be targeted to induce elastogenesis in adult skin. We screened a library of about 1000 active ingredients to find activators capable to stimulate specifically the LOXL gene expression in adult dermal fibroblasts. The positive effect of selected active ingredients was confirmed on fibroblasts grown on monolayers and on dermal and skin equivalent cultures. One extract, obtained from dill (LYS'LASTINE V, Engelhard, Lyon, France), stimulates the LOXL gene expression in dermal equivalents (+64% increase in the LOXL mRNA level when compared with control). At the same time, the elastin detection is increased in dermal equivalents and under the dermal-epidermal junction of skin equivalents, without increase of the elastin mRNA. In conclusion, LOXL can be considered as a new target to reinduce elastogenesis. Its stimulation by a dill extract is correlated with increased elastin detection, suggesting an increase in elastogenesis efficiency.

The development of human skin models that have the same properties as genuine human skin is of particular significance. Very promising skin models are the three-dimensional artificial skin constructs, which, similar to genuine skin, consist of an epidermis of differentiated keratinocytes and a dermis. A skin equivalent based on a collagen-glycosaminoglycan-chitosan dermal substrate has been developed to meet the growing demand in tissue engineered skin equivalents. We used this model to investigate whether CD34-generated Langerhans/dendritic cell precursors could be integrated into this skin equivalent model and pursue their differentiation without addition of cytokine and growth factor. To address the issue of dendritic cell (DC) differentiation, an endothelialized skin equivalent coculture model was used to study the behaviour of haematopoietic progenitor cells (HPC) in epidermal and dermal environments. CD34(+) HPC were cultured for 6 days with GM-CSF, TGFbeta1 and TNFalpha and seeded in the endothelialized skin equivalent at different time points to favour dermal or epidermal integration. This integration (after keratinocyte seeding, only and in absence of exogenous GM-CSF, TNFalpha, TGFbeta1) gave rise both cutaneous DC, i.e. epidermal Langerhans cells (CD1a(+), HLA-DR(+)) and dermal DC (DC-SIGN(+), HLA-DR(+)) while endothelial cells are sufficiently activated to acquire HLA-DR expression. For the first time, the presence of a living dermal equivalent could provide a more complex environment integrating vascular components to study the differentiation of interstitial DC in a dermis equivalent. Such sophisticated skin equivalent may clarify some intriguing aspects of the numerous regulatory mechanisms controlling skin homeostasis.

Skin equivalents (SEs) have been designed to meet both basic and applied research needs. The successful application of tissue-engineered SEs requires that the reconstituted tissues be endowed with the correct organization and function. A large body of experimental evidence now supports the notion that the inducing effects of mesenchymal tissue on epithelial cell morphogenesis are mediated, at least in part, by extracellular matrix components in addition to cell-cell interactions. A coculture model including both fibroblasts and keratinocytes was used to study the effects of progressive serum reduction on epidermal differentiation, quality of dermal and dermal-epidermal junctions, and expression of extracellular matrix proteins. The cells were successively added to a dermal substrate composed of collagen, glycosaminoglycans, and chitosan. The main aim of this study was to optimize this model for pharmacotoxicological trials. Control skin equivalents were cultured with medium containing 10% serum throughout the production process. Serum content was reduced to 1 and 0% at the air-liquid interface and compared with control skin equivalents. First, we demonstrated that serum deprivation at the air-liquid interface improves keratinocyte terminal differentiation. Second, we showed that, in the absence of serum, the specific characteristics of the SE are maintained, including epidermal and dermal ultrastructure, the expression of major dermal extracellular matrix components (human collagen types I, III, and V, fibronectin, elastin, and fibrillin 1), and the dermal-epidermal junction (laminin, human type IV collagen, alpha6 integrin). Furthermore, our results indicate that coculture models using keratinocytes and fibroblasts have both morphological and functional properties required for biologically useful tissues.Skin equivalents (SEs) have been designed to meet both basic and applied research needs. The successful application of tissue-engineered SEs requires that the reconstituted tissues be endowed with the correct organization and function. A large body of experimental evidence now supports the notion that the inducing effects of mesenchymal tissue on epithelial cell morphogenesis are mediated, at least in part, by extracellular matrix components in addition to cell-cell interactions. A coculture model including both fibroblasts and keratinocytes was used to study the effects of progressive serum reduction on epidermal differentiation, quality of dermal and dermal-epidermal junctions, and expression of extracellular matrix proteins. The cells were successively added to a dermal substrate composed of collagen, glycosaminoglycans, and chitosan. The main aim of this study was to optimize this model for pharmacotoxicological trials. Control skin equivalents were cultured with medium containing 10% serum throughout the production process. Serum content was reduced to 1 and 0% at the air-liquid interface and compared with control skin equivalents. First, we demonstrated that serum deprivation at the air-liquid interface improves keratinocyte terminal differentiation. Second, we showed that, in the absence of serum, the specific characteristics of the SE are maintained, including epidermal and dermal ultrastructure, the expression of major dermal extracellular matrix components (human collagen types I, III, and V, fibronectin, elastin, and fibrillin 1), and the dermal-epidermal junction (laminin, human type IV collagen, alpha6 integrin). Furthermore, our results indicate that coculture models using keratinocytes and fibroblasts have both morphological and functional properties required for biologically useful tissues.

The development of new materials for tissue engineering of skin substitutes requires an increasing knowledge of their interactions with human skin cells. Since carbohydrate recognition is involved in numerous biologic processes, including skin regeneration, the aim of this study was to identify sugar receptors expressed at the surface of human dermic and epidermic cells. Binding of fluorescent sugar-polyhydroxyethylacrylamide derivatives was analyzed by flow cytofluorimetry on cultured human skin fibroblasts, keratinocytes, and melanocytes. We observed that these three cell types express a membrane receptor specific for GlcNAc6S. Since the polysaccharide heparin contains this sugar moiety, we further investigated the interactions of heparin with skin cells. We analyzed the in vitro cell binding and ex vivo diffusion with the Franz cell of heparin and of two other polysaccharides of similar molecular weight, dextran and chondroitin sulfate. We found evidence of the preferential binding of heparin on keratinocytes and its high transcutaneous penetration of skin. Altogether, our results describe the affinity of heparin for human skin cells and suggest it may be an excellent candidate for use in the skin delivery of drugs or cosmetics and also as an active component in engineered skin.

Cathepsin S (catS), which is expressed in normal human keratinocytes and localized close to the dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) degrades some of major basement membrane (BM) constituents. Among them, catS readily hydrolyzed in a time and dose dependent manner human nidogen-1 (nid-1) and nidogen-2, which are key proteins in the BM structure. CatS preferentially cleaved nid-1 at both acid and neutral pH. Hydrolysis of nid-1 was hampered in murine ctss(-/-) spleen lysates pretreated with inhibitors of other classes of proteases. Nid-1 was cleaved within its G2 and G3 globular domains that are both involved in interactions with other BM components. Binding assays with soluble and immobilized ligands indicated that catS altered the formation of complexes between nid-1 and other BM components. Assuming that the cleavage of nid-1 impairs its ability to crosslink with BM partners and perturbs the viscoelastic properties of BM matrix, these data indicate that catS may participate in BM proteolysis, in addition to already identified proteases.