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Guru Prasath, J.; Sannasiraj, S.A., and Chandramohan, P., 2024. Nearshore morphological changes due to severe cyclonic storm activity along the east coast of India. Journal of Coastal Research, 40(4), 696–713. Charlotte (North Carolina), ISSN 0749-0208. Nearshore waves, wind, and tidal current mobilize seabed sediments; sort, transport, and redistribute the sediments; and modify the nearshore seabed morphology. Waves play a dominant role in morphological changes among winds, waves, and tidal currents. The nearshore wave breaking induces the initiation of sediment movement, and the associated alongshore current transports a large volume of sediments that tend to either accrete toward or erode from the beach face and seabed. Sediment transport rate in the nearshore waters during cyclones is higher than that under normal conditions. The measured changes due to Cyclone Nivar in November 2020 in the nearshore morphology along the Mahabalipuram coast are examined to understand the response of nearshore morphology to cyclonic wave-induced forcing. The beach-profile measurements across 10 transects at 100 m spacing covering about 1000 m along the coast were measured before and after the passage of Cyclone Nivar as a part of the present field study. The evolving beach profiles during Cyclone Nivar were simulated using the storm-induced beach change (SBEACH) model, which is a cross-shore profile evolution model. The changes due to berm erosion and deposition of nearshore sand bars have been compared from field measurements data and model prediction. The calibrated model was then used to simulate the beach profile response at two other locations along the cyclone-affected coastline to examine the shoreline impact. The calibrated model can be used along the coast to understand the poststorm profiles of the beach with reasonable accuracy. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Since the field measurement of wave overwash is difficult to obtain during severe storms, a laboratory experiment is conducted to measure the time and space evolution of the overwash and beach profile over the sand dune continuously using high‐speed video image analysis for different wave conditions of irregular waves and solitary waves. Characteristics of the cross‐shore sediment transport and morphology change are discussed from the laboratory experiment data. The inflection point, which marks the shifting turn in dune crest movement during overwash, is determined by analyzing feature points in the variation of dune geometry. It is confirmed that the overwash water volume rate reaches a maximum value when the inflection point occurs. Additionally, the overwash water volume is found to be linearly related to the deposited sediment volume, and the dune erosion volume is proportional to wave energy flux during the overwash process. The presence of secondary dunes is found to significantly alleviate coast erosion during overwash and reduce shoreline retreat by more than 40%, regardless of the height of the secondary dune crest. Furthermore, the advances and limitations in overwash hydrodynamics are discussed. It is recommended that this continuous morphological change monitoring data be combined with a wave resolution model for detailed hydrodynamic simulations to further understand the overwash process. Plain Language Summary: Beach erosion and land inundation occur when wave runup exceeds the crest of dunes during extreme natural hazards. Dunes play a crucial role in coastal defense by reducing sediment loss and maintaining beach stability. To understand the hydrodynamic conditions and morphology change during the overwash process, we set up a dune‐beach experiment in a laboratory flume. With the support of high‐speed camera technology, this study examines the response of dunes during the overwash process and the changes in dune feature points. It is pointed out that dune erosion shows a relationship with wave energy flux and is consistent with shoreline recession. Moreover, secondary dunes can effectively reduce coastal erosion during overwash. Key Points: The experiment reveals that the inflection point in dune crest movement during overwash corresponds to the maximum overwash water rateOverwash water volume is linearly related to deposited sediment volume, while dune erosion volume is proportional to wave energy fluxThe presence of secondary dunes significantly reduced coast erosion during overwash, reducing shoreline retreat by over 40% [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Sedimentation in a drain system has been recognized as one of the major causes of nuisance flooding produced by localized storms in Southeast Texas. The objective of the study is to assess the sediment load from runoff under different hydrological and road conditions to implement design guidance for a proper self-cleaning drain system. A diffusion wave model is developed to simulate runoff hydrodynamics on the roadway with curb inlets. An empirical sediment load equation is developed as a function of rainfall intensities, road conditions, and field sediment characteristics. The required flow velocity to erode the cohesive deposited sediment, and transport the deposited sediment incorporating the sediment from runoff in the drainpipe has been investigated to implement design guidance for a self-cleaning drain system. Regional hydrological conditions and field sediment characteristics are critical to design an effective drainage system for improving coastal resilience under severe weather conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

• First calculations of suspended metal pollution for the red river Delta, vietnam. • The global flux contribution is <0.2% and not a major source of oceanic pollution. • The delta is largely a sink of pollutants with a high level of deposition (∼50%). • 'Hotspots' of pollution due to dissolved organic matter, monsoons, and salinity. • Predicted increases in severe storms, saline intrusion and human activity can shift sink to source. Due to the depositional environment, river deltas are said to act as filters and sinks for pollutants. However, many deltas are also densely populated and rapidly urbanizing, creating new and increased sources of pollutants. These sources pose the risk of tipping these environments from pollution sinks to sources, to the world's oceans. We provide detailed seasonal and annual assessments of metal contaminants in riverine suspended particulate matter (SPM) across the densely populated Red River Delta (RRD), Vietnam. The global contributions of elements from the RRD are all <0.2% with many elemental fluxes <0.01%, suggesting the RRD is not a major source of elemental pollution to the ocean. However, 'hotspots' of metal pollution due to human activity and the impacts of tropical storm Son Tinh (July 2018) exceed both national level regulations and international measures of toxicity (e.g. enrichment factors). There is widespread 'extreme pollution' of Cd (enrichment factor >40) and concentrations of As higher than national regulation limits (>17 mg/Kg) at all sites other than one upstream, agricultural-dominated tributary in the dry season. These 'hotspots' are characterised by high inputs of organic matter (e.g. manure fertiliser and urban wastewater), which influences elemental mobility in the particulate and dissolved phases, and are potentially significant sources of pollution downstream. In addition, in the marine and fresh water mixing zone, salinity effects metal complexation with organic matter increasing metals in the particulate phase. Our calculations indicate that the delta is currently acting as a pollutant sink (as determined by high levels of pollutant deposition ∼50%). However, increased in-washing of pollutants and future projected increases in monsoon intensity, saline intrusion, and human activity could shift the delta to become a source of toxic metals. We show the importance of monitoring environmental parameters (primarily dissolved organic matter and salinity) in the RRD to assess the risk of transport and accumulation of toxic metals in the delta sediments, which can lead to net-increases in anthropogenic pollution in the coastal zone and the incorporation of toxic elements in the food chain. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

• A high magnitude/low frequency event in an alpine basin was comprehensive analyzed. • The flood exhibited ω = 3865 W m−2 and an unit peak discharge = 3.3 m3 s−1 km−2. • A moderate response was shown by hillslopes, while the main stream was deeply altered. • Boulder mobility and massive bedload volume proved the outstanding flood magnitude. • Two large and infrequent floods occurred in the study basin were compared. To achieve a reliable analysis of the impacts induced in mountain basins by large and infrequent floods, all their main components, from the spatial-temporal distribution of meteorological agents to the hydrological, geomorphic and sedimentological response should be considered. Comprehensive study of the hydro-geomorphic responses is extremely valuable to increase the awareness of large floods, especially, in highly populated mountain areas. Such type of investigation requires a solid and wide dataset, which is why only few studies had the chance to describe the response in such a holistic way. This work comprehensively analyzed the high magnitude/low frequency Vaia event, a severe storm that affected northeastern Italy in October 2018 and thus the Rio Cordon study basin. The 80 h precipitation registered in the basin showed a total rainfall equal to 29.8% of the mean annual precipitation. The temporal distribution of rainfall presented two phases, i.e., a first characterized by moderate but persistent precipitation and a second more intense, exhibiting recurrence intervals over 50 years. A combination of indirect methods permitted the reconstruction of the hydraulic forcing acted in the Rio Cordon. Despite the implicit uncertainty, these methods clearly highlighted the high magnitude expressed by October 2018 flood, which generated a unit peak discharge equal to 3.3 m3 s−1 km−2 and a peak of unit stream power of 3865 W m−2, i.e., the highest hydraulic forcing conditions ever observed in 34 years. In terms of geomorphic changes, the use of pre- and post-event LiDAR data stressed out a moderate response of the hillslopes, where the (re)activation of the sediment sources was limited. Only few of these acted as sediment supplier to the main channel. The channel network instead, exhibited an evident response, with the Rio Cordon severely altered by wide lateral widening, deep streambed incision and armouring removal. The hydraulic and geomorphic forcing generated by October 2018 flood caused extensive streambed remobilization and boulder mobility that, in turn, induced the transport of a massive sediment volume. In this sense, the match between bedload observed and bedload predicted suggested the outstanding hydraulic forcing occurred and the quasi-unlimited supply conditions acted during the flood. The long-lasting monitoring program maintained in the Rio Cordon basin provided the rare opportunity to compare two high magnitude/low frequency floods and their induced effects. The September 1994 and October 2018 events were caused by different rainfall conditions, which resulted in different hydrological- and, especially, geomorphic- and sedimentological-responses. Particularly, the October 2018 flood induced an unprecedented alteration on the fluvial system, the effects of which could persist over the long-term. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: In situ observations were combined with 3D modeling to gain understanding of and to quantify the suspended sediment transport in the Gulf of Lions (NW Mediterranean Sea). The outputs of a hydrodynamic–sediment transport coupled model were compared to near-bottom current and suspended sediment concentration measurements collected at the head of seven submarine canyons and at a shallow shelf site, over a 6-month period (November 2003–May 2004). The comparisons provide a reasonable validation of the model that reproduces the observed spatial and time variations. The study period was marked by an unusual occurrence of marine storms and high river inputs. The major water and sediment discharges were supplied by the Rhone, the largest Mediterranean river, during an exceptional flood accompanying a severe marine storm in early December 2003. A second major storm, with moderate flooding, occurred in February 2004. The estimate of river input during the studied period was 5.9Mt. Our study reveals (i) that most of the particulate matter delivered by the Rhone was entrapped on the prodelta, and (ii) that marine storms played a crucial role on the sediment dispersal on the shelf and the off-shelf export. The marine storms occurring in early December 2003 and late February 2004 resuspended a very large amount of shelf sediment (>8Mt). Erosion was controlled by waves on the inner shelf and by energetic currents on the outer shelf. Sediment deposition took place in the middle part of the shelf, between 50 and 100m depth. Resuspended sediments and river-borne particles were transported to the southwestern end of the shelf by a cyclonic circulation induced by these onshore winds and exported towards the Catalan shelf and into the Cap de Creus Canyon which incises the slope close to the shore. Export taking place mostly during marine storms was estimated to reach 9.1Mt during the study period. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: A 1-year survey of sediment dynamics on the Têt inner-shelf in the south-western part of the Gulf of Lions was conducted as part of the EUROSTRATAFORM program (European Margin Strata Formation) from October 2004 to November 2005. Several bottom instruments (ADCP, wave gauge and altimeters) were deployed at 28m water depth on the Têt prodelta to measure forcing responsible for sediment erosion and transport on the inner-shelf. The survey period was characterized by low inputs from the coastal rivers and the absence of severe E–SE marine storms, but intense cold dense shelf water formation along the inner-shelf due to strong and persistent N–NW continental winds. The strong (>20cm/s) and prolonged (4 months) southwards alongshore currents during the preconditioning and formation phases of dense shelf water generated continuous sediment erosion of several centimetres on the Têt prodelta and significant suspended-sediment transport. Hydrodynamical modelling shows that the core of the flow predominantly affects the inner-shelf, but occasionally spreads over the mid-shelf mud belt and the outer-shelf, due to the variable intensity of the NW wind (Tramontane). The impact of this N–NW wind-driven process in terms of resuspension rates and suspended-sediment transport clearly differs from that of extreme E–SE storms observed during the previous winter at the same site [Guillén, J., Bourrin, F., Palanques, A., Durrieu de Madron, X., Puig, P., Buscail, R., 2006. Sediment dynamics during wet and dry storm events on the Têt inner shelf (SW Gulf of Lions). Marine Geology 234 (1–4), 129–142.]. Bottom shear stresses and resuspension rates due to strong dense shelf water flow peaked at 0.7–1Pa and 0.3–0.4g/m2/s, respectively, while they reached values of 6–9Pa and 1.6–1.8g/m2/s, respectively, during the strong E–SE storms events. However, due to differing durations, both led to significant (few centimetres) erosion of the inner-shelf sediment. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: Shelf-to-canyon suspended sediment transport during major storms was studied at the southwestern end of the Gulf of Lions. Waves, near-bottom currents, temperature and water turbidity were measured on the inner shelf at 28-m water depth and in the Cap de Creus submarine canyon head at 300m depth from November 2003 to March 2004. Two major storm events producing waves H s>6m coming from the E–SE sector took place, the first on 3–4 December 2003 (max H s: 8.4m) and the second on 20–22 February 2004 (max H s: 7m). During these events, shelf water flowed downcanyon producing strong near-bottom currents on the canyon head due to storm-induced downwelling, which was enhanced by dense shelf water cascading in February 2004. These processes generated different pulses of downcanyon suspended sediment transport. During the peak of both storms, the highest waves and the increasing near-bottom currents resuspended sediment on the canyon head and the adjacent outer shelf causing the first downcanyon sediment transport pulses. The December event ended just after these first pulses, when the induced downwelling finished suddenly due to restoration of shelf water stratification. This event was too short to allow the sediment resuspended on the shallow shelf to reach the canyon head. In contrast, the February event, reinforced by dense shelf water cascading, was long enough to transfer resuspended sediment from shallow shelf areas to the canyon head in two different pulses at the end of the event. The downcanyon transport during these last two pulses was one order of magnitude higher than those during the December event and during the first pulses of the February event and accounted for more than half of the total downcanyon sediment transport during the fall 2003 and winter 2004 period. Major storm events, especially during winter vertical mixing periods, produce major episodes of shelf-to-canyon sediment transport at the southwestern end of the Gulf of Lions. Hydrographic structure and storm duration are important factors controlling off-shelf sediment transport during these events. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

The presence of ripples superimposed on an active sand ridge is the most usual situation under low-to moderate-energy conditions in the wave-dominated, tideless Ebro Delta coast. Four types of small-scale bedforms were identified, from the critical threshold of sediment motion to wash-out conditions: (i) small undulations with η < 0.5 cm and λ ~8 cm, formed as a precursor of wave ripples when the Shields parameter was just below the theoretical critical; (ii) 2D wave ripples with η = 1.2 cm and λ = 7–10 cm; (iii) mixed 2D/3D current-dominated ripples with a maximum of η ~1.5 cm and λ = 10–15 cm; and (iv) 3D wave-current ripples with a maximum of η ~2.2 cm and λ = 7–20 cm. Ripple degradation was observed to occur when the energy of the hydrodynamic regime increased (wash-out conditions) and under low-energy hydrodynamic conditions, when ripples progressively decayed mainly as a consequence of biological activity. The wave ripples were static, while the current-dominated ripples migrated towards the SE at a rate of ~10 cm/h. The potential role of ripple migration as an additional long-term mechanism of sediment transport is addressed. On the Ebro Delta shoreface, 3D ripple migration follows the direction of sand ridge migration towards the SE. The respective migration rates and their differences in size support the hypothesis that a subordinate part of sand ridge migration can result from the contribution of ripple migration under low to moderate regimes, suggesting that in specific environments the dynamics of small-scale bedforms can play a subordinate but not negligible role in the evolution of larger bedforms. Image 1 • Ripples superimposed on a sand ridge are the most usual seabed configuration on the Ebro Delta shoreface during low and moderate hydrodynamic conditions. • Three ripples configurations are classified by: 2D wave ripples; mixed 2D/3D current-dominated ripples; and 3D wave-current ripples. 2D ripples remain static while mixed 2D/3D and 3D ripples are dynamic and migrated. • Most sediment transport occurs during severe storms and under sheet flow conditions when ripples are washed out. However, significant sediment transport is estimated during the development of 3D ripples. • A subordinate part of the sand ridge migration could be associated with ripple migration suggesting that large-scale bedforms could be dynamic during low-to moderate-energy processes and not only during high-energy conditions. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Foredunes, shore-parallel dune ridges on the top of the backshore, are formed by aeolian sand deposition within vegetation. While foredune erosion during severe storm surges is reasonably well understood and can be predicted with fair accuracy, knowledge of the recovery of the foredune by aeolian sand transport from the beach is limited. The growth of foredunes from incipient or embryo dunes to established foredunes depends on the frequency and magnitude of sand transport, degree of vegetation cover, vegetation type and wave processes. Sand transport over the beach is influenced by various factors, such as beach geometry, angle and magnitude of the approaching wind, moisture content and critical fetch. Once transported sand reaches the foredune, vegetation modifies the wind field and its transport capacity, adding further uncertainty in spatio-temporal deposition patterns across the foredune. To address the knowledge gap on how a vegetated foredunes alters the wind field and wind driven sediment transport an intensive field campaign at Egmond aan Zee in October 2017 was carried out. The foredune at this site is about 20 m high has a steep foredune face (1:2.5) with its upper part densely vegetated by Ammophoila arenaria (marram grass). Measurements with high spatio-temporal resolution on wind velocities and directions (using sonic anemometers) and sand transport (using vertical arrays of sand traps) across the vegetated foredune together with a detailed vegetation characterization were conducted. Results indicate that wind acceleration across the foredune is governed by wind directions rather than incoming wind velocities. We measured maximum flow acceleration around cross-shore approaching wind directions of up to 300 percent between the foredune-foot and the foredune-top. In contrast, velocities decreased slightly between the foredune-foot and –top during alongshore wind. Measurements of sand transport across the foredune showed that turbulence (measured through turbulent kinetic energy, TKE) was a more important predictor for sand transport than absolute wind speed. The mass flux of sand transported across the foredune decreased rapidly from the foredune-foot to the foredune-top by up to 2 orders of magnitude. Further analysis will focus on linking the observed sand mass fluxes with foredune vegetation characteristics and sand deposition. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]