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The study aimed at detecting differentially expressed proteins in the stratum corneum of dandruff versus non-dandruff scalps to better understand dandruff aetiology. iTRAQ-based quantitative proteomic analysis revealed a total of 68 differentially expressed biomarkers. A detailed analysis of their known physiological functions provided new insights into the affected metabolic pathways of a dandruff scalp. Dandruff scalp showed (1) profound changes in the expression and maturation of structural and epidermal differentiation related proteins, that are responsible for the integrity of the skin, (2) altered relevant factors that regulate skin hydration, and (3) an imbalanced physiological protease-protease inhibitor ratio. Stratum corneum proteins with antimicrobial activity, mainly those derived from sweat and sebaceous glands were also found modified. Comparing our data with those reported for atopic dermatitis revealed that about 50 % of the differentially expressed proteins in the superficial layers of the stratum corneum from dandruff and atopic dermatitis are identical.

Dandruff is a common but complex disorder with three major contributing factors: (1) individual predisposition, (2) scalp sebum and (3) Malassezia yeast colonization. To obtain further insights into the role of sebum in dandruff biogenesis, we analyzed scalp lipid species in a cohort of ten dandruff-free (control) and ten dandruff-afflicted volunteers by gas chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry. Lipid peroxidation levels and biochemical markers of oxidative stress were also assessed. Squalene, a major sebum component, was significantly more peroxidized in dandruff-affected scalps, resulting in significantly higher ratios of squalene monohydroperoxide (SQOOH)/squalene. This was observed when comparing dandruff-affected zones of dandruff subjects to both their non-affected zones and control subjects. In addition, other biomarkers such as malondialdehyde indicated that oxidative stress levels were raised on dandruff scalps. Surprisingly, differences regarding either free or bound fatty acids were fairly rare and minor. Certain novel findings, especially squalene peroxidation levels, were then confirmed in a validation cohort of 24 dandruff-affected subjects, by comparing dandruff-affected and non-dandruff zones from the same individuals. As SQOOH can induce both keratinocyte inflammatory responses and hyperproliferation in vitro, we hypothesized that increased SQOOH could be considered as a new etiological dandruff factor via its ability to impair scalp barrier function. Our results also indicated that Malassezia could be a major source of squalene peroxidation on the scalp.