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Ascorbic acid (vitamin C) is an antioxidant that is widely used in cosmetics in skincare products. Due to the excessive low stability of ascorbic acid in cosmetic formulations, the stabilized ascorbic acid derivative, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP) was formulated as vesicular carriers; ethosomes and niosomes. The aim was to deliver MAP at the intended site of action, the skin, for sufficient time with enhanced permeation to get an effective response. Ethosomes were formulated using a full 32 factorial design to study ethanol and phospholipid concentration effect on ethosomes properties. Niosomes were formulated using 23 factorial designs to study the effect of surfactant type, surfactant concentration and cholesterol concentration on niosomes properties. The prepared formulations were evaluated for their Entrapment efficiency, particle size, polydispersity index, zeta potential and % drug permeated. The optimized ethosomal and niosomal formulations were incorporated into carbopol gel and evaluated for their permeation, skin retention and stability. A comparative split-face clinical study was done between the ethosomal and niosomal formulations for melasma treatment using Antera 3DVR camera. The optimized ethosomal and niosomal gels showed comparable controlled permeation and higher skin retention over their ethosomes and niosomes formulations respectively. Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate ethosomal gel showed clinically and statistically significant melanin level decrease after one month while MAP niosomal gel showed clinically and statistically significant melanin level decrease after six months. A combination of MAP ethosomes and niosomes could be promising skincare formulations for melasma and hyperpigmentation short and long-term treatment. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Vitamin C (L-Ascorbic acid) has many favourable effects on the skin such as antioxidant, anti-aging and whitening effects. Its instability and low permeability limit its pharmaceutical use in cosmetic and dermatological products. Instead, Mg ascorbyl phosphate (MAP), an ascorbic acid derivative, has the same effect with higher stability is being used. In this work, a vesicular system, aspasomes, containing MAP was developed and evaluated. Aspasomes are multilayered vesicles formed by amphiphiles molecules, Ascorbyl palmitate (ASP), in combination with cholesterol and charged lipids for drug encapsulation. Here, we investigated the use of lecithin instead of the charged lipid dicetyl phosphate for aspasomes development. Nine formulations were prepared and evaluated for their entrapment efficiency, particle size, polydispersity index (PDI) and zeta potential. Their entrapment efficiency ranged from 33.00 ± 2.27 to 95.18 ± 1.06, while their particle size was from 373.34 ± 60.85 to 464.37 ± 93.46 nm with acceptable PDI (from 0.212 ± 0.068 to 0.351 ± 0.061) and zeta potential (from −37.52 ± 2.42 to −50.36 ± 1.82). Three formulations were selected and evaluated for their drug release, permeation and retention into skin. One formulation was selected to be formulated as aspasomal topical cream and gel. The aspasomal cream was found to have enhanced drug permeation and skin retention over the aspasomal gel as well as the aspasomes formulation. MAP aspasomal cream was evaluated clinically as an effective treatment for melasma against 15% trichloroacetic acid (TCA) and the results recorded that the aspasomal cream showed the greatest degree of improvement regarding the hemi-MASI scores with 35% of patients rating it as excellent treatment. The study showed that MAP aspasomal cream can be considered a novel treatment of melasma which is free of side effects. Its efficacy as a monotherapy is superior to that of chemical peeling using 15% TCA. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]