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The emergence of a habit in Indonesia and even the world, namely the use of used clothes (thrifting) became the idea for this research. This new habit is known to be able to reduce the production of textile waste in the world. The purpose of this study was to obtain analysis results that affect the use of new clothes (fast fashion) on the use of used clothes (thrifting). Using the K-means Clustering method and using several parameters, including age, quality, price, and sustainability or awareness. The method of collecting data is through a questionnaire and the research material is the buyers found in the online store Instagram (thriftboys.id). From the results of the clustering process that researchers have done using the K-means algorithm with manual calculations and rapidminer applications, the conclusions consist of; 1) In clusters 1 and 2 the age factor shifting from fast fashion to thhirft is 23 years, while in cluster 3 it is 25 years, 2) In the three clusters the average income that shifts from fast fashion to thhirf is group 3 or the range of 200000 -500000, 3) In the third cluster, people switch from fast fashion to thrift because of the good quality of goods, and 4) In clusters 2 and 3 more people are aware of textile waste for the world. Meanwhile, cluster 1 has the same number of conscious and unconscious waste.

PurposeWorker welfare and modern slavery within the fashion industry remain a key supply chain challenge for many retailers, consumers, governments and advocacy groups. Yet, despite publicised worker-welfare violations, many fashion retailers continue to post record sales and profits, indicating that consumer concern does not always translate at the cash register. Research has shown that worker welfare is a less salient area of concern for fashion consumers, and the aim of this research is to investigate the reasons why this may be the case.Design/methodology/approachDue to the exploratory nature of the research, a qualitative methodology was deemed the most appropriate. Twenty-one semi-structured interviews were conducted with Australian fast-fashion consumers to investigate the underlying reasons worker-welfare violations are less likely to elicit pro-social consumer behavioural change and are a less salient area of concern.FindingsThis study found that consumers perceive worker-welfare concerns at both a proximal and cultural distance to themselves, and therefore struggle to connect with the issues associated with modern slavery. Additionally, there was an underlying social consensus that exploitative practices are an accepted part of the fast-fashion supply chain to ensure the continuation of low-cost clothing. Despite an underlying awareness of exploitative practices and acknowledgement that modern slavery is ethically wrong, other consumer values often influenced purchase behaviour and the level of concern expressed towards garment workers.Originality/valueThis is the first study to apply psychological distance in a fast-fashion context to better understand consumer perceptions towards modern slavery. Responding to calls for further research into ethical consumption of apparel, this study develops an in-depth understanding of the reasons why worker welfare is a less salient area of concern for fast-fashion consumers. Extending on current literature, this study qualitatively investigates consumer sentiment towards worker welfare, identifying the greatest barriers to consumers' levels of concern. In addition to a theoretical contribution to the fashion, ethics and business literature, this article provides key insight to guide practice.

Many consumers are contented with the fast fashion styles, abundant choices, and affordable price. However, other consumers and environmental advocates began to question about this fast fashion system, including the problems of overconsumption and disposable clothing. As a result, many fashion practitioners and scholars have been developing different strategies and methods to minimise the fabric waste, and prolong the product lifespan through innovative design. The objectives of this study are twofold: (1) to explore various techniques for creating transformable clothing and (2) to gain a deeper understanding of how individuals (entrepreneurs, designers, professors, and consumers) respond to their perceptions of transformable clothing, and issues of sustainability in China. This study consists of three stages – design experiments, in-depth interviews, and online surveys. In stage one, various design prototypes were developed, with one of them being selected as the visual stimuli for stages two and three. According to our results, many informants and online participants supported the concept of sustainable fashion as well as the idea of transformable garments. However, many professionals had numerous concerns regarding the production cost, practicality, adaptability, and saleability.

Fast fashion has become a subject of interest to politicians as they grapple with the development of a sustainability strategy. To date the agenda has largely been informed by an examination of production methodologies and techniques documenting the rapid turnover of trends, the speed and efficiency of the production process and the lack of socially cohesive labour practices this consistently engenders. Whilst governments seek to raise awareness and begin to generate initiatives to tackle the environmental fall out of fast fashion, this paper turns its attention to the temporal patterns of consumer behaviour and why such a high percentage of what we buy is readily discarded soon after point of purchase. All stages in this linear model of consumption, it is argued, are shaped by a very specific relationship to time that ultimately informs our buying habits. Utilising the work of the philosopher A.N. Whitehead and adopting a more psychosocial approach to fashion consumption, this paper recognises that even when purposefully seeking to consume sustainably, a greater need to align our use of time with a results-driven mind set locates the acquisition of something new as a highly achievable goal. As a consequence, rather than positioning the rationale for fashion purchases in the context of conspicuous consumption and emulation, here it functions to mitigate a lack of temporal control in other areas of our lives. In response, it is proposed that any successful attempts at tackling the problems associated with fast fashion must also seek to understand the temporal dynamics of consumption. For whilst governments’ attention is turned to ways to reduce the environmental impact associated with the production of clothing, increasing consumer demand derived from ‘neophilia’ (Booker, 1970) will negate and indeed overturn any successes achieved. The conclusion will therefore suggest that promotional culture has a duty to explore ways in which it might engender greater emotional attachments to what we own. Future research into brand messaging, exploring the consequences of placing emphasis on quality over quantity and a subsequent potential deepening of a sense of brand loyalty, is also recommended as a way forward.

Generation cohorts have different tendencies in purchase behaviors, especially the Generation X and the Generation Y. Although the age gap between these two generation cohorts is not wide, the Generation X has distinctive purchase behaviors that are different from the Generation Y. In the fashion business, the Generation X consumers do not consider the brands in purchasing their clothes, but they calculate the benefits in buying a clothing product. However, the Generation Y consumers consider it as a part of their social status, therefore, they position themselves in the middle class or the upper class by what they wear. The aim of this research is to investigate the different purchase behaviors of the Generation X and Y in buying fast fashion products in Surabaya. The purchase behaviors are reflected through such variables as shopping orientation, status consumption, and impulse buying. As this is a quantitative research, the data are collected using questionnaires that are distributed to 100 respondents. The respondents are chosen using the purposive sampling technique. Then, the data are tested for the validity, reliability, normality, and homogeneity. To test the hypothesis, the independent samples t-test is used. The results show that the differences between the Generation X and the Generation Y are significant in their shopping orientation and impulse buying. However, there are no significant differences in the status consump-tions.

Social media advertising has become the cornerstone of the most effective fashion brands’ marketing strategy in recent years. Since the boom of social media, most fashion retailers have started to recognize the benefits of creating value for their brands using social media platforms. The purpose of this study is to explore the impact of social media advertising on consumer buying behaviour towards fast fashion. Along with the study, it examines the consumer buying behaviour aligned with the consumer decision-making process. It measures the overall impact of social media advertising on the consumer decision-making process in the fashion industry. This study adopts a descriptive quantitative research design and data was collected through a self-administrated questionnaire. The population of this study is active social media users in Western province and a sample of 300 consumers was selected using the convenience sampling method. The hypotheses were tested using Correlation and Regression analysis since the purpose of the study is to measure the impact of each independent variable on the chosen dependent variable. The Results of the present study revealed that social media advertising positively influences on consumer buying behaviour in the fast fashion industry. Three independent variables out of four, namely entertainment, familiarity and social imaging have highly influenced consumer behaviour and there is no statistically significant influence from the remaining variable, advertising expenditure. The present study provides valuable implications for the fast fashion industry, providing marketers with the opportunity to use the findings for identifying their consumers’ real buying behaviour in a digital environment and to make the decisions accordingly.

The purpose of this study was to compare the competitive priorities of the slow and fast fashion retail operations of large retailers in an emerging economy. The study embraces the six largest Brazilian companies operating both fast and slow fashion businesses. The methodological path comprises a qualitative phase, in which four experts review the competitive priorities in fashion supply chains. Then follows a quantitative phase, in which the practitioners, supported by AHP, the analytical hierarchy process, weight the fast fashion and slow fashion supply chain priorities. Finally, the study compares the two sets of priorities by considering the uncertainty in the judgment. The most relevant priorities in slow fashion are price and quality, whereas those in fast fashion are customer relationships and flexibility. This study proposes guidelines for simultaneously managing these two strategies. In slow fashion, companies should reduce costs and improve quality by implementing online process controls. In fast fashion, companies should decrease lot sizes, increase the variety of mixes and assortments, and strengthen ties with customers. The main novelty of this study is the evidence that retailers operating fast and slow fashion must simultaneously manage two different strategies to achieve different priorities. In addition, some novel procedures are adopted to mitigate the uncertainty in the judgments.

The objective of the article, starting from the ideological presupposes that sustains the fashion movements like fast fashion and slow fashion is to analyze the idea built around the obsolescence of fashion products under the eye of the linear and circular production systems related to the meaning of the Fast-Slow paradox. Those studies are not limited to deny fast fashion and affirm slow fashion as the possible alternative to obsolescence. According to Weber (1999), the understanding of the subjective and empirical issues of these social phenomenons leads to the preliminary interest of rethinking the structure of the textile-clothing-fashion scenario and its social and environmental organization in order to review future challenges. Yet as a theoretical base, it’s used Berlim (2015), Fletcher and Grose (2011), Kazazian (2005), Minney (2016), and Salcedo (2014) to underpin the perspectives of a possible path for the ethical act of the fashion professional in a society of consuming in the views for a transition of an economical linear model to a circular one, with bigger knowledge about the sustainable development.

Purpose When fast fashion brands launch corporate social responsibility (CSR) programs, consumers may consider these brands to behave hypocritically as their business model is generally perceived as being inconsistent with sustainable practices. Built on construal level theory (CLT), this study aims to examine how the benefit appeals that are widely used in CSR initiatives affect perceived corporate hypocrisy and the CSR performance of fast fashion brands. Design/methodology/approach This study designed an online experiment with a 2 (fashion brand: fast fashion vs. unknown) × 2 (benefit appeal: self-benefit vs other-benefit) stimulus, using a virtual label named “Eco Care” for experimental manipulation. A total number of 298 Chinese consumers participated in the experiment and they answered an online survey. Findings It was found that the brand types (fast fashion vs unknown) and benefit appeals (self-benefit vs other benefit) did not elicit perceived corporate hypocrisy nor did them directly affect perceptions of CSR performance. However, there was a significant interaction effect of them. That is, fast fashion brand’s CSR performance was judged based on how the brand framed its sustainability claims. A fast fashion brand’s CSR label significantly increased hypocrisy perceptions when the label used a self-benefit appeal and the interactive effect of the fast fashion brand and the self-benefit appeal hindered the formation of a green brand image and brand purchase intentions. Originality/value This study adds a body of knowledge to the literature by examining the relationship between benefit appeals and perceived corporate hypocrisy from the perspective of CLT. The findings can help fast fashion marketers better understand the critical role of benefit appeals by acknowledging that the misuse of communication strategies may result in unfavorable consequences, thus ruining their efforts to improve their brand’s image.

PurposeThe aim of the study reported in this article was to establish whether the quality of clothes of a given brand is perceived and assessed by consumers at the same level. An additional purpose was to identify the features that characterize the quality of popular, among Polish young female consumers, clothing brands and to classify them according to their quality level (perceived and assessed).Design/methodology/approachThe article presents two approaches to consumer assessment of the quality of clothes: the survey method, in which the product quality was determined by 320 Polish female young respondents (19–25) based on their own previous experiences and impressions related to a particular clothing brand, and a direct assessment of shirts of selected brands using a sensory quality assessment method, a five-point hedonic scale with the verbal anchor (115 evaluators).FindingsThe research has revealed a significant difference between the perception of selected quality features of brands and the consumer assessment of the products. The perception maps developed based on the PROFIT analysis (PROperty FITting) as well as on cluster analysis provided interesting information about the situation of selected brands and their features in comparison with others and allowed to identify strong and weak features characterizing a given category.Research limitations/implicationsThis study has several limitations. First and foremost, the research results cannot be generalized to all consumers because they encompass the results from one national context and one population of respondents (young females). It should also be noted that the conducted research comprises only the most popular clothing brands available on the Polish market, in particular, the fast fashion segment brands. Furthermore, it would be advisable to carry out a sensory assessment of the quality of other clothing items offered under the brand names investigated.Practical implicationsThis research could be a valuable source of information for clothing company managers, thanks to which they could better manage their brand and its position on the market. When undertaking marketing activities consisting of building positive perceptions about the product, it is important to make sure that the product offers an attractive sensory experience. When real quality deviates from consumer perceptions about the quality, managers should take corrective actions to restore and even improve the brand image in the eyes of the consumer, as well as to ensure the brand and the products offered under it a stable position on the market.Originality/valueBy comparing two approaches to consumer quality assessment, discrepancies between declared and real (sensory) quality of clothes have been identified and the distinctive features that differentiate selected brands regarding their quality level have been indicated.

the Dynamic change in the fashion industry gave rise to Fast fashion, these changes arose as a result of the change in consumer's lifestyle, , the research problem the scarcity of its design methodology clear and specific to design a Collection For Fashion Designers in Egypt According to Fast Fashion, which adds up to the field investing for successful designs and increase sales by suggested different designs inspired from successful selling design. , the aim of the research is designing A collection according to fast fashion by using the suggested methodology to invest previous and current designs in the future. the research hypothesis is investing the successful previous designs according to customers' needs by using the specific methodology for design a collection according to fast fashion ,, research methodology is the inductive and applied approach through design a collection according to fast fashion , the research includes fashion design & fast fashion , the collection & lines, ,fashion collection design, but the applied study is Suggest a specific methodology for the fashion collection design according to fast fashion, and depend on three stages : a set of designs for a different outfits, design according to display methods , design according to the study and analysis of high sales designs in previous seasons . One of the most important results of the search is linking between the design thought and consumers requirements through the analysis of successful designs to increase sales rates in the new collections

O presente artigo decorre de investigação sobre figuras criadoras de moda. Seu objetivo é exibir as diferentes figuras e instituições consideradas aptas e hábeis à criação no decorrer da história da moda. Esta pesquisa pode ser classificada como qualitativa, descritiva e bibliográfica. A metodologia aplicada foi a de revisão teórica, conduzindo-se levantamento, análise e interpretação de fontes teóricas como livros, dissertações e teses sobre história da moda, de forma a identificar e descrever brevemente tais figuras especialistas. O critério adotado para levantar e sistematizar a bibliografia foram as obras de Lipovetsky (2007), Sant’Anna (2009), Riello (2013), Laver (2008) e Baldini (2005). Os dados foram analisados criticamente e as informações foram sintetizadas e apresentadas em ordem cronológica. Como resultado, pode-se identificar que desde as corporações de ofício (manufaturas reais) e as figuras aristocráticas (com ênfase nas rainhas), o campo da moda guia-se por especialistas na definição dos cânones da beleza, do estilo e do bem vestir. Também se aponta que o tardio processo de industrialização da moda cedeu às marcas o papel legitimado da criação, colocando designers de moda no centro das atividades de ideação e desenvolvimento de produtos. Essa industrialização encontra seu apogeu no fenômeno fast fashion. Tal modelo de criação e produção sofre veementes críticas, incluindo aquelas à própria 'insustentabilidade criativa' dos designers de moda. Assim, como consideração final deste trabalho, observa-se um retorno à moda autoral, a qual tem como base a singularidade do criador e a subjetividade de seu processo criativo.

In the present exploratory study, our primary aim was to explore whether knowledge about the fast-fashion industry's harmful effects would significantly impact participants' shopping intentions (i.e., eco or fast-fashion items products). Using an experimental approach, we created a virtual clothing shop and allowed participants to win, through a raffle, the contents of their shopping carts. Participants in the experimental group watched a video about the adverse environmental consequences of the fast-fashion industry. In contrast, in the control group, we used a neutral video describing various technical marketing strategies. In the experimental condition, participants chose more eco-friendly products) compared to the control. However, there were no significant differences between the two groups in terms of fast-fashion consumption behaviors, i.e., the choices of buying fast-fashion items. We also found several significant associations between participants' general concern for the environment, consideration of future consequences, civic moral disengagement, and consumption behaviors (buying eco or fast-fashion items following the experimental procedure). Results are discussed concerning their practical implications for sustainable citizenship participation and sustainable education.

It is possible to say that the fashion phenomenon is effective in life activities with its status, thought and society as a mirror. Therefore, it is a decisive factor in our life cycle with the trend phenomenon of human existence by changing its quality. The 2010s witnessed significant changes in the fashion world. Sustainable fashion flow has been supported by increasing awareness of the negative impact of fast fashion on climate change with consumers ready-to-wear production. In this direction, with the increase of diversity and opportunities, the decreased awareness rate in the field of fashion and textiles, the naturalness movement has come to the fore during the period when the place of handicraft products is decreasing. However, the emphasis on simplicity brought by natural products has not produced enough influence for consumption in the field of fashion. In 2020, global epidemics and measures changed the phenomenon of consumption created in the fashion world and brought regular consumption models to the forefront in this field. The pandemic has been a period of emergence of new diversity in the field of fashion and textiles. In this study, it is aimed to investigate the changes and innovations that may occur in the post-pandemic fashion world from different sources with the trends of the global epidemic that constitutes a crisis in the last situation that has come with the change of fashion in the last decade, and to explain the pandemic factor on the phenomenon of fashion that is possible to progress in the scientific field.

This article investigates the influences of fast-fashion on the dynamic performance of dressed bodies of female consumers aged 18–45 in Taiwan, the demographic that most enjoys buying fast-fashion clothing. It analyses the types of fashion democracy that fast-fashions provide Taiwanese female consumers. This article also proposes an alternative qualitative research method and concept that allows researchers to investigate the intricate relationships between clothing, the body and society by reviewing the interactive relationship between clothing patterns and wearers’ bodies. Findings show that Uniqlo is the most popular fast-fashion brand in Taiwan exhibiting fashion democracy for Taiwanese female consumers.

The current pandemic situation creates several challenges for many entities. One of them is the fact that fast fashion retailers have to change their strategic activities related to the whole business model concept. In the proposed paper it is assumed that business model plays crucial role as the success factor for entities from different industries including fast fashion retailing especially in the era of global pandemics. Therefore, the aforementioned area (business model as the success factor of the company) constitutes the subject of the paper. Purpose. The aim of the paper is to indicate the scope and main character of changes in business models implemented by fast fashion retailers in pandemic times. The following goals of descriptive and cognitive character are assumed in the paper: a) identification of the fast fashion retailers' common activities in changing business models in the era of pandemics, and b) identification of e-commerce solutions applied by fast fashion retail chains which are caused by development of multi-channel and omni-channel solutions based on Inditex example. Methodology. Based on the theoretic deliberation of retail chains business models in the pandemic times, qualitative research was conducted to supplement the theoretical background. The purpose of this study was to identify how fast fashion retailers develop their e-commerce solutions to maintain the sales level. The conducted research enabled finding the answers to the following research questions: What are the good practices of fast fashion retailers in terms of development of e-commerce channels? Can fast fashion retailers relying on e-commerce business models stay profitable in the Covid-19 pandemics? The theoretic deliberation is based on critical literature review. The empirical part of the paper is based on case study research. The conducted research was descriptive in nature, conducted in order to describe a particular phenomenon within its context, and was not intended to provide conclusive evidence, but to have a better understanding of the problem. Descriptive intrinsic case study was the method applied in the research. Results. On the grounds of literature studies, as well as collected information, it can be stated that e-commerce solutions are the predominant business model of fast fashion retailers in the era of global COVID 19 pandemics. The descriptive case study research allowed to observe, analyse, and report good practices of fast fashion retailer Inditex in terms of implementing into their business models more and more e-commerce solutions such as: development of applications, development of multi and omni channels. The theoretical contribution. On the grounds of the case, it can be stated that during pandemics fast fashion retail chains focus on development of innovative business models based on e-commerce solutions. Practical implications (if applicable). The paper provides intellectual input into the managerial problem of how to develop mutual beneficiary business models for fast retail chains as well as for their customers. The study suggests that fast fashion retail chains have to take into consideration growing customers expectation, with regard to e-commerce solutions. © 2021 The Authors. Published by Elsevier B.V. This is an open access article under the CC BY-NC-ND license (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0) Peer-review under responsibility of the scientific committee of KES International.

Ovaj rad tematizira nedovoljno istraženu modnu potrošnju iz hrvatskoga konteksta. S obzirom na to da je u referentnoj literaturi istaknut aktivni modni interes studenata, njih 24 uključeno je u provedbu kvalitativnoga istraživanja metodom fokus grupe održane u četiri navrata sredinom 2020. Opći cilj bio je istražiti studentske modne prakse u svakodnevici s posebnim osvrtom na principe brze i etičke modne potrošnje kako bi se utvrdilo prema kojem se modelu profiliraju. Iako sudionici istraživanja nisu raspolagali s konkretnim saznanjima o (ne)etičnim praksama modnih trgovina te su u pravilu konzumirali brzu modu, iskazali su otvorenost naspram etičkih proizvoda smatrajući kako moda ne bi trebala biti platforma ugnjetavanja uključenih aktera. Nalazima je detektirano i postojanje (post)modernoga potrošačkoga sukoba tako što su se sudionici okarakterizirali modnim individualistima koji su istodobno slijedili modne trendove uz opće negiranje utjecaja na vlastite potrošačke izbore dok su se u većini inspirirali modnim sadržajima s društvenih mreža, iz okoline te iz različitih medija. Razvivši listu modnih ulaganja kombinirali su kvalitetu i kvantitetu, nerijetko se otkrivajući masovnim ekskluzivistima. Pokazana slojevitost i hibridnost studentske modne potrošnje u konačnici je interpretirana u kontekstu (post)moderne životno-stilske ambivalentnosti te je ukazana potreba za većom edukacijom i društvenim angažmanom studenata na ovu temu., This research aims to fill the gap in the existing literature on fashion consumption by looking at the Croatian context. As referential literature shows that students have particularly active fashion interests, our qualitative research focused on the student population by using the method of focus groups with a total of 24 students over 4 meetings in mid-2020. The general goal was to examine students’ fashion practices in their everyday lives, with the emphasis on the principles of fast and ethical fashion consumption, to determine their dominant profiles/models. Although the research participants were not provided with specific information about the (non)ethical practices of fashion stores and generally consumed fast fashion, they were open to ethical products, believing that fashion should not be a source for the oppression of the actors involved. The findings also revealed the existence of a (post)modern consumer conflict, with participants characterizing themselves as fashion individualists who followed the fashion trends (most were inspired by fashion content from their surrounding as well as various media and social networks), while at the same time denying any influence on their consumer choices. In developing their lists of fashion investments, they balanced between quality and quantity, often revealing themselves as mass exclusivists. The demonstrated complexity and hybridity of students’ fashion consumption was interpreted in the context of (post)modern lifestyle ambivalence and we indicate the need for better education and social engagement of students on this topic., Diese Arbeit thematisiert den nicht genug erforschten Modeverbrauch im kroatischen Kontext. Da in der Referenzliteratur ein aktives Interesse der Studenten an der Mode hervorgehoben wurde, wurden Mitte 2020 vier Male 24 Studenten in eine qualitative Forschung mit der Methode der Fokusgruppe einbezogen. Ein allgemeines Ziel war es, Modepraxen von Studenten in ihrem Alltag zu erforschen, besonders hinsichtlich der Prinzipien des schnellen und ethischen Modeverbrauchs, um festzustellen, nach welchem Modell sie profiliert werden. Obwohl die Forschungsteilnehmer über keine konkreten Erkenntnissen über die (nicht)ethischen Praxen von Modegeschäften verfügten und in der Regel schnelle Mode konsumierten, haben sie sich ethischen Produkten gegenüber offen gezeigt und fanden, dass Mode keine Unterdrückungsplattform der involvierten Akteure sein sollte. Es wurde das Bestehen eines (post)modernen Verbraucherkonflikts belegt, indem die Teilnehmer sich selbst als Modeindividualisten sahen, aber zugleich den Modetrends folgten und dabei Einflüsse auf die eigene Verbraucherwahl negierten, die meisten inspirierten sich von Modeinhalten auf sozialen Netzwerken, aus der Umgebung und aus verschiedenen Medien. Sie haben Qualität und Quantität kombiniert, nicht selten als Anhänger der Massenexklusivität. Die gezeigte Stratifizierung und Hybridität des studentischen Modeverbrauchs wurde schließlich im Kontext der (post)modernen Ambivalenz des Lebens und des Stils interprätiert und es wurde darauf hingewiesen, dass bei Studenten ein Bedarf nach einer besseren Eduzierung und mehr Einsatz hinsichtlich dieses Themas besteht.

During the last few years, global fast fashion retailers have been penetrating Asian emerging markets and Vietnam is not an exception. This study explores both external and internal factors, contributing to the fashion-oriented impulse buying of Vietnamese millennials and then investigates the impact of these determinants on fashion-oriented impulse purchase. Both qualitative and quantitative approaches were conducted in the empirical study. It is found that emotion and hedonic value along with fashion involvement, sensory cues and in-store promotion respectively influence fast-fashion oriented impulse purchase. These findings help fast fashion retailers understand the impulse buying behavior of young Vietnamese consumers so that they can effectively elaborate retailing-mix strategy to boost the sales and thus sustainably grow the business.

This paper develops theories of place in relation to migration to argue that the diasporic population of Chinese migrants in Prato, Italy, live not only ‘out of place’ due in no small part to margi...

Purpose This study aims to test for factors affecting environmental sustainability and purchase intention in the fashion industry. Accordingly, the authors developed a framework that depicts the relationships between perceptions of social responsibility, consumer attitude, trust, purchase intention and perceived consumer effectiveness. Design/methodology/approach An online survey was conducted with an internationally diverse sample of 216 consumers. Data were analysed using partial least squares structural equation modelling. Findings The results indicated that perceptions of social responsibility directly affect consumers’ attitudes towards these fashion brands, as well as trust and perceived consumer effectiveness. Also, consumers need to perceive sustainability efforts of these brands as altruistic, and trust was found to be a direct predictor of purchase intention. However, both consumer attitude and perceived consumer effectiveness did not predict purchase intention. Research limitations/implications The survey was primarily distributed to young people. Therefore, a generalisation of the findings to other age groups might be limited. Practical implications Practicing managers should emphasise the fact that environmental sustainability and fast fashion brands could be sustainable to increase trust among consumers. Social implications When it comes to environmental issues, positive perceptions regarding the companies’ social responsibility efforts are vital to enhance both consumers’ trust towards the brands and their individual feeling of empowerment. Originality/value This study intends to shed light on the key elements that shape consumers’ attitudes and willingness to purchase green apparel.

This paper aims to investigate how the UNIQLO, the global Japanese fast fashion retailing group, drives their organization towards success. UNIQLO has a good product quality by introducing Heat Tech range of cold weather underwear lines which targeted at warm weather with affordable price. Besides, UNIQLO continues to develop its product via research and development to meet the needs of their customers. UNIQLO stores particularly are distinctive and have a clear positioning in the market. In 2014, UNIQLO launched its mobile online store through the smartphone app. UNIQLO emphasizes on giving the best satisfaction to their customers. The paper presents the factors that lead to organizational success in UNIQLO. These findings will have considerable implications for academics as well as practitioners. Finally, the paper also provides direction for future research.

PurposeThe purpose of this paper is to understand the effect of store messiness and human crowding on shoppers' competitive behaviours, in-store hoarding and in-store hiding, through the mediating effect of perceived scarcity and perceived competition.Design/methodology/approach2 (store messiness: messy × tidy) × 2 (human crowding: high × low) between-subject factorial experiment was conducted online to manipulate retail store atmospheric factors. A total of 154 responses were collected through Amazon MTurk. The hypotheses were analysed using ANOVA and PROCESS (Hayes, 2013) procedure.FindingsResults suggest that store messiness and human crowding within a fast-fashion store lead to perception of scarcity and competition that further affects competitive behaviours. When consumers experience store messiness, they are likely to hide merchandise in store, thus making it inaccessible for other consumers. Further, when they experience human crowding in the store, they feel that the products will be gone immediately so they have a tendency to hoard them.Research limitations/implicationsThis study examined the effects of scarcity perception by studying the case of fast-fashion retailers; generalizability needs to be established across different contexts.Practical implicationsRetailers by manipulating human crowding and store messiness can create a perception of scarcity in their stores, thus enhancing sales. However, they should also pay attention to deviant behaviours such as in-store hoarding and in-store hiding as these behaviours may decrease the store sales.Originality/valueThis research contributed to the retailing literature by finding a significant relationship between human crowding, store messiness and competitive behaviours through perceived scarcity and competition.

The research aimed to (i) explore brand experience and brand love as antecedents of brand centrality experience, (ii) analyse brand engagement and overall brand image as consequences of brand centr...

To identify the antecedents of repurchasing intention toward fast fashion brands, this study was conducted to examine brand authenticity and brand identification as both direct and indirect antecedents of repurchasing intention through fast fashion brand love. Through convenience sampling, 266 university students in Seoul metropolitan area completed a questionnaire survey. Data were analyzed using SPSS for exploratory factor analysis, and AMOS was used for confirmatory factor analysis and path analysis. Factor analysis revealed the following: for brand authenticity, four dimensions(‘originality,’ ‘reliability,’ ‘continuity,’ and ‘naturalness’) were revealed; for both consumer brand identification and repurchase intention one dimension was revealed; and for brand love two dimensions were revealed(‘passion’ and ‘affection’). Path analysis confirmed that ‘reliability’ and ‘naturalness’in relation to brand authenticity indirectly influenced repurchase intention through ‘passion’(as a factor of brand love) and directly influenced repurchase intention. Further, ‘continuity’ in relation to brand authenticity indirectly influenced repurchase intention through ‘affection’(as a factor of brand love) and directly influenced repurchase intention. Consumer brand identification influenced repurchase intention indirectly through two factors of brand love. These results suggest that fast fashion brand marketers should implement effective strategies that consider consumers’perceptions of brand authenticity, consumer brand identification, and brand love.

PurposeThe rise of fast fashion has changed the face of global fashion. Despite sector growth, critics have questioned the level of obsolescence, encouragement of over-consumption and fast fashion's unsustainable business practices. Specifically, mounting concerns surround the impact on environmental, worker and animal welfare. Accordingly, the aim of this current work is to understand the influence of consumer's values on ethical consumption in a fast-fashion context.Design/methodology/approachAn online survey was designed to collect responses relating to personal values and ethical concerns towards animal and worker welfare issues, as well as environmental concerns. A total of 350 US-based fast-fashion consumers completed the survey via Amazon MTurk. Factor analyses and structural equation modelling were used to analyse and test a theoretically hypothesised model.FindingsThis study found that self-transcendence values and openness to change values have a positive impact on consumers' levels of ethical concern towards animal welfare, the environment and worker welfare concerns within the fashion industry. Furthermore, a consumer's level of concern towards animal welfare and the environment positively influences a consumer's likeliness to purchase ethically marketed fast fashion.Originality/valueThis is the first study to investigate the role of consumer values and their influence on ethical concerns within the fashion industry and the impact of these concerns on intentions to purchase ethically marketed fast fashion. Responding to calls for further research into ethical consumption of apparel, this study includes all elements of ethical consumption identified, including animal welfare. This study identifies ethical areas of concern salient amongst fast-fashion consumers and provides a deeper understanding of the values impacting the level of ethical concerns surrounding animal welfare, the environment and worker welfare.

Buying secondhand clothing is not only interesting for consumers wanting to save money but also for sustainable clothing enthusiasts. It is now among a number of consumption practices which slow down fast fashion production while saving 10 to 20 times the energy (Fletcher, 2008, p. 100). While most of the recent scholarly work focuses on secondhand consumers (Bianchi & Birtwistle, 2010; Franklin, 2011; Norum, 2015), this paper aims to examine business activities. This perspective from economic anthropology enhances understandings of secondhand clothing, as research to-date has tended to neglect the semiotic function of clothing while underlining exchanges. To gain insight into the dynamics of the sector in Germany today, two businesses from Hamburg have been ethnographically examined by the author since 2014. This study outlines their work practices and explains the development of this high-end segment of the market from the 1970s until the digital age. For businesses, the digitalization of the trade has had massive effects on their business practice because it seems to solve inherent problems connected to the selling of pre-owned clothing. I argue that the digitalization did not only promote acceptance of buying secondhand clothing in Germany but also the emergence of new businesses models.

The purpose of this study is to analyze millennial buying behavior towards world fast fashion brands in Indonesia. The total number of respondents in the research that could be processed was 188 respondents. The criteria for respondents are the millennial generation in Indonesia who bought Zara, H&M and Uniqlo brand products. The data analysis of this study used LISREL 8.80. The results of this study have a positive effect on brand awareness and store atmosphere and the hypothesis is supported on millennials' purchasing behavior; brand nationality and brand consciousness have a negative effect and the hypothesis is not supported on millennials' purchasing behavior; brand consciousness and brand nationality have a positive influence and the hypothesis is supported on brand awareness; brand awareness has a mediating role and the hypothesis is supported between brand consciousness and brand nationality on millennials' purchasing behavior; Brand schematicity does not have a moderating role and the hypothesis is not supported by brand awareness, brand consciousness and brand nationality on millennials' purchasing behavior. The implication of this research is that fast fashion brands can increase brand awareness and store atmosphere to maximize the potential opportunities for fast fashion brands to millennials' purchasing behavior. Keywords: brand awareness, brand consciousness, brand nationality, brand schematicity, store atmosphere

A mother begins to care about her baby once she learns about her pregnancy. She becomes even more concerned about her baby after delivery, and, therefore, starts to scrutinize everything that is of interest to the baby, including the selection of adequate clothing that is not harmful to sensitive skin. Given the importance of providing comfortable and healthy clothing to our children, it was necessary to focus on the type of fabrics from which children’s dresses are made. Also there has been a need to understand the best characteristics and specifications of fabrics, as sustainable fibers that are made from cotton are commonly preferred over synthetic fibers which are considered unsuitable for children due to the sensitivity of their skin. With the beginning of the 21st century, fast fashion has become a source of growth, and production of clothing doubled dramatically. Estimates indicate that consumers are turning to cheaper clothes which are usually discarded after a short time, while ignoring sustainable fabrics and quality of clothing, thus harming the children’s skin. Based on this fact, this research seeks to examine Saudi mothers’ awareness of sustainable fabrics, their interest in purchasing eco-friendly children’s clothing as well as their purchasing preferences of children clothing. This paper also seeks to raise awareness among mothers on the importance of choosing sustainable fabrics for children’s clothing, guide mothers to opt for quality of fabrics over designs, encourage designers to create designs for children’s clothing using eco-friendly fabrics, and encourage merchants to use and market eco-friendly fabrics in order to reduce the environmental pollution, in line with the Saudi Vision 2030.

Fra i vari libri pubblicati di recente sull’immigrazione cinese in Italia e da segnalare City Making & Global Regimes. Chinese Immigrants and Italy’s Fast Fashion Industry, di Antonella Ceccagno. Per piu di un verso il libro presenta molti aspetti sui quali vale la pena soffermarsi. I piu significativi riguardano la prospettiva di analisi, le spiegazioni a proposito dello sviluppo imprenditoriale cinese e, infine, le dinamiche sociali e politiche che sottostanno alla costruzione della doxa co...

PurposeThe central purpose of this paper is to explore how implicit knowledge capabilities and sharing helps secure organizational survival and success. This article explores the challenging in better management knowledge in the South African clothing and textile industry. In moving from a closed protected market supported by active industrial policy, South African manufacturing has faced intense competition from abroad. The ending of apartheid removed a major source of workplace tension, facilitating the adoption of higher value-added production paradigms. However, most South African clothing and textile firms have battled to cope, given cutthroat international competition. The authors focus on firms that have accorded particularly detailed attention to two instances characterized by innovative knowledge management. The authors highlight how circumstances may impose constraints and challenges and how they paradoxically also create opportunities, which may enable firms to survive and thrive through the recognition and utilization of informal knowledge, both individual and collective.Design/methodology/approachThis study is based on in-depth interviews, primary company and industry association and secondary documents.FindingsThe study highlights how successful firms implemented systems, policies and practices for the better capturing and utilization of external and internal knowledge. In terms of the former, a move toward fast fashion required and drove far-reaching organizational restructuring and change. This made for a greater integration of knowledge through the value chain, ranging from design to retail. Successful firms also owed their survival to the recognition and usage of internal informal knowledge. At the same time this process was not without tensions and paradoxes, and the findings suggest that many of the solutions followed a process of experimentation. The latter is in sharp contrast to many South African manufacturers, who, with the global articulation of production networks, have lost valuable knowledge on suppliers and their practices. At the same time, both firms have to contend with an increasingly unpredictable international environment.Research limitations/implicationsAt a theoretical level, the study points to the need to see informal knowledge not only in individualistic terms but also as a phenomenon that has collective, and indeed, communitarian features. Again, it highlights the challenges of nurturing and optimizing informal knowledge. It shows how contextual features both constrain and enable this process. It further highlights the extent to which the effective utilization of external knowledge, and rapid responses to external developments, may require a fundamental rethinking of organizational structures and hierarchies. This study focuses on a limited number of dimensions of this in a single national context but could be replicated and extended into other contexts.Practical implicationsThe study highlights the relationship between survival, success and how knowledge is managed. This involved harnessing the informal knowledge and capabilities of workforce to enhance productivity, in conjunction with improvements in machinery and processes, and a much closer integration of design, supply, production and marketing, underpinned by a more effective usage of IT. Paradoxically, other clothing and textile firms have survived doing the exact opposite – reverting to low value-added cut-and-trim assembly operations. At a policy level, the study highlights how specific features of South African regulation (above all, in terms of job protection), which are often held up as barriers to competiveness, may help sustain the knowledge base of firms.Social implicationsThe preservation and creation of jobs in a highly competitive sector was bound up with effective knowledge management. The study also highlighted the mutual interdependence of employers and employees in a context of very high unemployment and how the more effective usage of informal knowledge bound both sides closer.Originality/valueThere is a fairly diverse body of literature on manufacturing in South Africa, and, indeed across the continent; however, much of it has focused on challenges. This study explores relative success stories from a sector that has faced a structural crisis of competitiveness, and as such, has relevance to understanding how firms and industries may cope in highly adverse circumstances.

Unlike slow fashion that takes workers, consumers and environmental welfare into consideration, fast fashion is criticized for neglecting these. This study investigates attitudes and adoption intention of the slow fashion concept among young adults in South Africa, a highly socio-economically unequal emerging market. An extended information adoption model will be adapted and tested through a self-administered survey of 300 respondents. The results will provide marketing professionals, environmental and consumer interest groups and policy makers with valuable insight into barriers and motivators of slow fashion idea adoption among young adults who are a large, influential and profitable consumer segment.

As part of the following commentary there is consideration of how the mainstreaming of ‘intersectional feminism’ is implicated in allegedly ‘feminist advertising’ by fast fashion brands H&M, Boohoo and Missguided, ultimately to generate profit. Feminist thought has involved critique of how capitalist systems are entangled with sexist structures that contribute to the subjugation of women (Davis 1981). Nevertheless, despite such contentions, the notion of what scholars such as Akestam, Dahlen and Rosengren (2017) call ‘femvertising’ (feminist advertising), has recently emerged in marketing rhetoric and beyond. In this commentary, I argue that ultimately, such femvertising still upholds the profit-oriented idea that women must buy and consume certain products, in order to affirm themselves and the market-bound sense of ‘feminism’ that is being promoted. I explore the extent to which such marketing is reflective of a commitment to feminism, or is a false (fauxminist) attempt to convey a brand’s investment in women’s equality and empowerment. Through the analysis of advertisements of fast fashion brands I illustrate the ways in which feminist-coded content is effectively and ineffectively used, as well as discarded, as part of fast fashion marketing messages of inclusivity.

The Rana Plaza disaster of April 2013 was the most prominent of several incidents that have highlighted poor standards of business behaviour in the supply chains of well-known brands. Analysis of these incidents has attributed these poor standards to an institutional structure in which lead firms with strategic power outsource production into global value chains and pursue business models that involve rapid product upgrading and require low costs and fast turnarounds in production such as the garment industry's ‘fast fashion’ business model. This paper aims to complement that analysis by showing how trade marks, as the main legal anchors of brands, have reinforced the strategic power of lead firms, enabled them to outsource production and encouraged them to adopt business models of this kind. The paper will also evaluate the claim that brands mitigate their harmful effects by transmitting countervailing pressure back onto their owners because they provide salient targets for bad publicity and blame, as coverage of the Rana Plaza disaster showed, which can threaten their owners with reputational damage. It will be argued that this countervailing pressure has a limited effect and cannot be relied on without more to address the issues that the Rana Plaza disaster revealed.

Fast fashion retailers provide consumers with low quality, inexpensive, and trendy clothing. Fast fashion items are attractive to young consumers who have limited budgets yet want to be in trend. T...

With the past couture collections lighting up more and more debates on its relevance in the industry. In today's fast fashion industry, led by the recession, a new fashion sector has emerged. The fashion industry has settled on a mid-ground of exclusive couture pieces and easily available ready-to-wear, all to meet market needs & consumer demand. Demi couture or the bespoke wear industry has seen to be rising rapidly by offering commercially reproducible garments using new technology that incorporate some of the artisanal techniques pioneered by haute couture, designers are providing unique items for their more sensitive customers. This paper presents investigative research in order to understand what is currently happening in the technology sector to enhance the Haute and demi-couture industry in terms of consumer demand, styles & manufacturing. While the more modernized form of couture is greatly developing, this paper also explores the phenomenon of the decline in the importance of the haute couture industry and analyses sector trends of the growing fashion industry.

The object of research is the processes of interaction of business model components for the enterprise in the fashion industry at an early stage of its life cycle, which are subject to the principles of sustainable development and distinguish the business model from the model of «fast fashion». One of the most problematic places is to determine the actual components of the business model of the enterprise of the fashion industry, working on the principles of sustainable development, rather than those that are only declared by the company itself. And also used as a tool for promotion without the actual implementation of these tools. In addition, it is important not only to establish a minimum list of such tools, but also to establish their relationship. The study used methods of detailed analysis of the current state of the problem, based on information retrieval with extensive use of computers. Methods of empirical research (observation, comparison), method of synthesis and structural-genetic method (extraction from the complex phenomenon of such elements which considerably influence other parties of object of research, in a investigated case of tools of sustainable development) were also used. Various sources of information, databases EBSCO, ResearchGate, Jstor, secondary sources of information, company websites, analytical reports were used. As well as primary sources – interviews with representatives of fashion industry companies that implement «sustainable» practices in business processes at their enterprises (for example, Ze Kout LLC, Kyiv, Ukraine). The scientific and practical value of the study is that the business activities of modern companies must be consistent with the goals of sustainable development stated by the UN. And development – to involve its consumers not only in the promotion, evaluation or promotion of existing products, but also in the creation of quality products based on the principles of sustainable development. This provides an opportunity to renew the cooperation of companies, update the mission, goals, and vision of business development at high quality standards of sustainable economic development. This allows to reasonably approach the construction of business on the principles of sustainable development and obtain economic effects from the introduction into production of the principles of sustainable development. In particular, product quality can be improved.

Brands in the fast fashion industry often have a good development when they just enter China, but this development does not last for a long time. This paper will analyze financial statements and use PESTEL model to study the reasons why fast fashion brands cannot achieve long-term development in China, taking ZARA (owned by Inditex) as an example. In addition to references, the data graph of the study is mainly from Inditex's 2019 annual report and information published in the industry. Through the analysis, conclusions are made here. The macroeconomic environment in China is generally favorable for Zara's growth. Zara plans to close some stores in the future and switch to online sales, so in a country like China where online shopping is popular, this strategy makes sense. Besides, more and more people and institutions begin to pay attention to the issue of sustainable development. Therefore, if ZARA can improve the quality to a certain extent to promote the sustainability of its products in the future, it is also a strategy conducive to long-term development. Both the analysis of the financial position of a company and general environment in a certain country for the industry is important for its improvement strategy.

Sustainable apparel design is a discipline based on challenging the status quo. Applying an interdisciplinary approach, this paper integrates the methodologies of research through practice, sustainable design, and material culture to challenge contemporary products found on the fast fashion market. Exploring use-value as an avenue for sustainable design, a typology is developed addressing the identifiers of function, aesthetics, expression, and durability as a method for generating sustainable solutions. The interpretative methods of material culture are adapted into a use-value challenge as a process for establishing sustainable and unsustainable elements embedded within a product. The concept of best practices is introduced as a procedure for assessing the solutions for the creation of alternative prototypes. A case study, challenging children’s princess costumes found on the contemporary market, provides an example of how the use-value method for apparel design can be applied to fast fashion products.

La preocupación de la ciudadanía por el impacto medioambiental de sus acciones les ha llevado a replantear sus hábitos de consumo hacia unos más sostenibles con su entorno. Las empresas, como entes sociales y tanto por este motivo como por su impacto medioambiental, social y económico, han de replantear su estrategia de negocio hacia una más sostenible y comprometida con estas tres esferas en un paradigma empresarial en la que la correcta gestión de los intangibles, como la Responsabilidad Social Corporativa, puede inferir en una buena reputación. Sobre todo, en el caso de la moda rápida, que se convierte en una de las más contaminantes del mundo. El presente trabajo pretende analizar las comunicaciones sobre RSC que estas empresas comparten en Facebook y si existe una hegemonía o diferencia entre las comunicaciones de este tipo que realizan las organizaciones de moda lenta, con un modelo de producción y confección totalmente sostenible. De esta investigación se concluye que, a pesar de realizar acciones sostenibles como informan en sus páginas corporativas, las empresas de moda rápida no las comunican en su perfil de Facebook, a diferencia de las de moda lenta que las comunican de forma constante.

COVID-19 leads to a reinforced need to address sustainability at the economic, environmental, and social pillars, and the six categories of Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) of businesses, that is, their self-commitment to integrate sustainability in their policies and strategies and to become more effective and efficient. Luxury fashion businesses refer heavily but not identically, to their CSR, by formally issuing CSR reports and Codes of Ethics, and informally voicing their pro-CSR statements. Then, the COVID-19 pandemic hit and brought important changes. This burning issue translates into three objectives in this paper—assessing the CSR statements of International and Czech Luxury Fashion Industry businesses (i) at the onset of the COVID-19 pandemic, (ii) during the COVID-19 pandemic, and (iii) identifying new trends. To address them, a holistic and interdisciplinary case study exploration was performed entailing 10 International Luxury Fashion businesses and 10 Czech Luxury Fashion businesses. The resulting data were explored via Meta-Analysis and content analysis, teleological interpretations, etc. The critical and comparative review revealed six interesting trends indicating a shift in perception of sustainability and CSR caused by COVID-19. The review offers propositions for how the COVID-19 threats could become an opportunity for rebuilding this industry.

Fashion is among the biggest polluters, yet the media still promote throwaway fast fashion. The growing fashion public relations industry encourages and enables this media coverage. This policy brief identifies patterns in the way journalists and influencers cover fashion which contribute to unsustainable buying behaviours. Recent research recommends practical steps to improve media coverage to make consumption sustainable, by changing consumers’ understanding and reducing the pressure on them to buy ‘fast’ satisfaction. Policy recommendations here suggested are based on original analysis of 1,000+ media artefacts in the UK – from magazines to newspapers, gossip weeklies to Instagram influencers. Researcher Anastasia Denisova proposes regulation of vocabulary and of affiliated links in journalism and social media, greater discussion of the psychology of buying and a ‘paid advertisement label’. Also recommended is a more proactive approach to be taken by magazines and other media with the aim of promoting restyling advice and more sustainable coverage for readers of differing financial means.

This paper attempts to provide an up-to-date depiction and analysis of the consumer’s attitude towards sustainability of fast fashion products in the UK. Four related strands of literature are reviewed to establish a tri-component model of attitude (ABC), i.e., Affective, Behavioural and Cognitive. A wide set of determinants for attitude is identified, including income, price, gender, culture, religion, age, etc. Based on this conceptual framework, an online questionnaire is designed and sent to university students and alumni in the UK, returning 128 valid responses. Both descriptive statistics and regression analysis (oprobit) are employed to shed light on the three components of attitude towards sustainability. It is found that cognitive and behavioural components converge across cultures and religions, but the affective component remains significantly diverse. Employment status contributes to the awareness, decision and feeling of sustainability features, but gender only matters for purchase decisions. In general, there is an improved cognitive and affective awareness of sustainability, but this does not automatically translate to purchase behaviour. Policy interventions like taxes and subsidies are still needed to foster sustainability in the fast fashion industry.

Neste artigo, são analisados os valores simbólicos e as estratégias discursivas presentes em editoriais de moda produzidos por dois diferentes modelos de empresas de vestuário: uma marca de fast fashion e uma marca de slow fashion. Para tanto, é utilizado o aparato teórico-metodológico da semiótica discursiva desenvolvida por Algirdas Julien Greimas, tendo em vista o levantamento de hipóteses interpretativas e a apreensão dos efeitos de sentido vinculados às imagens fotográficas destes dois modelos de negócio. Como resultado, as leituras dos elementos visuais que compõem os editoriais analisados sugerem a promoção de valores distintos que apontam para as possíveis posições ideológicas discursivizadas pelas marcas. In this article, the symbolic values and discursive strategies present in fashion editorials produced by two different models of clothing companies are analyzed: one fast fashion brand and one slow fashion brand. To this end, the theoreticalmethodological apparatus of discursive semiotics developed by Algirdas Julien Greimas is used, with a view to raising interpretive hypotheses and apprehending the effects of meaning linked to the photographic images of these two business models. As a result, the readings of the visual elements that are part of the analyzed editorials suggest the promotion of distinct values that point to the possible ideological positions discursivized by the brands.

Public interest communication provides a comprehensive and interactive introduction to the theory and practice of public interest communication. Bringing together aspects of ethics, social and civil responsibility, advocacy and publics, this introductory textbook provides a new approach to communication theory and practice in the post truth era. In this book students will examine fields that intersect with public interest frameworks including concepts that provide building blocks and strategies for communication - from organisational listening, capacity building, partnerships and alliances, and the role of pro bono, to the importance of participation and activism in generating democratic debate. The course takes students into places and contexts where interest conflicts abound including the environment, public health, fast fashion, amongst others and challenges them to consider the positions of all stakeholders in determining public interest outcomes, driven by ethical and critical communication practice.

The fashion industry has been subject of pivotal trends over the past few decades. The industry has evolved into a complex, fragmented, global system which at its very core is based on the notion of continual consumption of the “new” and discard the old. The emergence of the “fast fashion” business model has increased the introduction of trends leading to premature product replacement and fashion obsolescence. It also has major negative environmental and social impacts, particularly on those at the bottom of the supply chain. Fashion in the 21st century is typically fast fashion, characterized by mass production, high turnover, and goods designed for a short lifespan. Like a kimono appears to be the antithesis of fast fashion in terms of production and consumption. A kimono takes time to create and usually has a long lifespan. However, in the current global fashion market, there has been a growing trend towards slow fashion, which involves longer production times, use of local materials, and a focus on quality and sustainability. Millennials nowadays are found to be more fashion-conscious, and relate themselves to the fashion brands they wear.

300 million pairs of shoes get thrown away per annum, which combined with fast fashion has resulted in the apparel industry contributing more in waste than other industries [1]. The rise of sustainability and developing circular business models have manifested due to the scarcity of resources; in particular manufacturers who use raw resources [2]. However, with the awareness of product waste and manufacturing techniques, the demand for ‘throw away’ products are being replaced with responsible consumerism [1]. The fashion industry has not responded to consumer demands of environmentally responsible fashion and is yet to be adopted by firms with large market share [3]. To accelerate this, an integrative decision-making process can aid the adaption of business models to suit all stakeholders, in particular the use of Game Theory (GT) [2].

Through the ages humans has drawn inspiration from nature. We`ve seen in art, design, and architecture. Nature is inexhaustible for inspiration, and different individuals find new things that inspires them. In this paper I want to explore and experiment with nature, temperature and digital design. This to examine the theory that the individual can be more attached to natural materials, and where the inspiration from the print is nature itself. After signing up for a class within digital textile printing, I got hooked. In cooperation with a supervisor I began exploring digital textile print. The fascination grew and I want to focus on this in my design education. To focus over a longer time to learn and explore. The exploration in this paper will be based on printing on natural 100 % natural fabrics like wool and silk. These materials are robust and known for the good quality. Social sustainability and ethical trade are important to make the world more sustainable. In this paper I as a student will explore different approaches to give the user of the textile associations to nature. To also bring in emotion and atmosphere, and combining photography, text, experiments and digital tools to explore the expression nature gives. Fast fashion has a big impact in the society we live in. The consumer is used to constantly buy new clothes, and quantity over quality is the reality. Keywords: Digital textile printing, digital manipulation, digital textile print, elements of nature, craft commercializing