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Movement is fundamental to the ecology and evolutionary dynamics within species. Understanding movement through seed dispersal in the marine environment can be difficult due to the high spatial and temporal variability of ocean currents. We employed a mutually enriching approach of population genetic assignment procedures and dispersal predictions from a hydrodynamic model to overcome this difficulty and quantify the movement of dispersing floating fruit of the temperate seagrass Posidonia australis Hook.f. across coastal waters in south-western Australia. Dispersing fruit cohorts were collected from the water surface over two consecutive years, and seeds were genotyped using microsatellite DNA markers. Likelihood-based genetic assignment tests were used to infer the meadow of origin for seed cohorts and individuals. A three-dimensional hydrodynamic model was coupled with a particle transport model to simulate the movement of fruit at the water surface. Floating fruit cohorts were mainly assigned genetically to the nearest meadow, but significant genetic differentiation between cohort and most likely meadow of origin suggested a mixed origin. This was confirmed by genetic assignment of individual seeds from the same cohort to multiple meadows. The hydrodynamic model predicted 60% of fruit dispersed within 20 km, but that fruit was physically capable of dispersing beyond the study region. Concordance between these two independent measures of dispersal provides insight into the role of physical transport for long distance dispersal of fruit and the consequences for spatial genetic structuring of seagrass meadows., (© 2018 John Wiley & Sons Ltd.)

Movement is fundamental to the ecology and evolutionary dynamics within species. Understanding movement through seed dispersal in the marine environment can be difficult due to the high spatial and temporal variability of ocean currents. We employed a mutually enriching approach of population genetic assignment procedures and dispersal predictions from a hydrodynamic model to overcome this difficulty and quantify the movement of dispersing floating fruit of the temperate seagrass Posidonia australis Hook.f. across coastal waters in south‐western Australia. Dispersing fruit cohorts were collected from the water surface over two consecutive years, and seeds were genotyped using microsatellite DNA markers. Likelihood‐based genetic assignment tests were used to infer the meadow of origin for seed cohorts and individuals. A three‐dimensional hydrodynamic model was coupled with a particle transport model to simulate the movement of fruit at the water surface. Floating fruit cohorts were mainly assigned genetically to the nearest meadow, but significant genetic differentiation between cohort and most likely meadow of origin suggested a mixed origin. This was confirmed by genetic assignment of individual seeds from the same cohort to multiple meadows. The hydrodynamic model predicted 60% of fruit dispersed within 20 km, but that fruit was physically capable of dispersing beyond the study region. Concordance between these two independent measures of dispersal provides insight into the role of physical transport for long distance dispersal of fruit and the consequences for spatial genetic structuring of seagrass meadows. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The hydrodynamics of a tidally forced semi‐enclosed coral reef atoll (North Scott) at the edge of the continental shelf of northwestern Australia were investigated by combining field observations and numerical modeling. The observations revealed that the spring tidal range outside the atoll reaches 4 m, and as the water level drops below mean sea level, the reef rim surrounding the shallow (~10–15 m) lagoon becomes exposed. During this time, the lagoon can only exchange with the open ocean through two narrow channels, resulting in highly asymmetric water levels and velocities that were most pronounced during spring tide. On average, the ebb tide duration was ~2 hr longer than the flood, with rapid flood velocities in the channel reaching 2 m/s. We applied an unstructured grid model Delft3D‐Flexible Mesh to simulate the atoll hydrodynamics and were able to replicate the asymmetric water levels and complex velocities in the lagoon. The results revealed that at higher tidal stages, a dominant momentum balance exists between the pressure gradient (established by the propagation of the tide on the shelf) and the local flow acceleration of water throughout the interior of the atoll. At lower tidal stages, which coincided with a reversal of the offshore tidal pressure gradient, the lagoon became isolated from offshore dynamics and all momentum terms were negligible. This resulted in a tidally averaged residual westward flow within the lagoon that drove an asymmetric flushing pattern within the atoll, which we propose would be a common flushing mechanism within other tide‐dominated atolls worldwide. Key Points: The hydrodynamics of a tide‐dominated atoll reef system were assessed with field observations and numerical modelingThe semi‐enclosed atoll morphology and large tidal range resulted in highly asymmetric water levels, velocities, and residual flowsA residual east‐west flow, caused by interactions between the phasing of the ocean tide and lagoon water levels, dominated flushing [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: Owing to their strong forcing of the ocean surface, tropical cyclones strongly modify the hydrodynamics of Australia's North West Shelf (one of the world's tropical cyclone hot spots), which in turn plays a dominant role in its sediment dynamics. Previous modeling studies have focused on describing the short‐term sediment dynamics during individual tropical cyclones but have lacked validation of the responses using field observations. As a consequence, the long‐term cumulative impact of the tropical cyclones on the residual sediment transport pathways at the shelf scale remains unclear. In this study we apply a sediment transport model over the North West Shelf, validate its performance using an extensive field data set, and implement a 14‐year‐long model simulation to assess the sediment fluxes. The model results confirm the overwhelming role tropical cyclones play on sediment transport processes over most of the shelf, despite each cyclone only influencing a small portion of the shelf at a particular time. Overall, we identified 19 tropical cyclone events over the 14‐year period, which, despite accounting for less than 5% of time, were found to drive the majority of both the suspended sediment alongshore and seaward cross‐shore transport. The results revealed significant interannual variability of the tropical cyclone‐induced sediment dynamics with greater suspended transport during the three consecutive Ningaloo Niño years (2011–2013) where sea surface temperatures off northwestern Australia were anomalously warm with elevated tropical cyclone activity. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: Sediment produced on fringing coral reefs that is transported along the bed or in suspension affects ecological reef communities as well as the morphological development of the reef, lagoon, and adjacent shoreline. This study quantified the physical process contribution and relative importance of sea‐swell waves, infragravity waves, and mean currents to the spatial and temporal variability of sediment in suspension. Estimates of bed shear stresses demonstrate that sea‐swell waves are the key driver of the suspended sediment concentration (SSC) variability spatially (reef flat, lagoon, and channels) but cannot fully describe the SSC variability alone. The comparatively small but statistically significant contribution to the bed shear stress by infragravity waves and currents, along with the spatial availability of sediment of a suitable size and volume, is also important. Although intratidal variability in SSC occurs in the different reef zones, the majority of the variability occurs over longer slowly varying (subtidal) timescales, which is related to the arrival of large swell waves at a reef location. The predominant flow pathway, which can transport suspended sediment, consists of cross‐reef flow across the reef flat that diverges in the lagoon and returns offshore through channels. This pathway is primarily due to subtidal variations in wave‐driven flows but can also be driven alongshore by wind stresses when the incident waves are small. Higher frequency (intratidal) current variability also occurs due to both tidal flows and variations in the water depth that influence wave transmission across the reef and wave‐driven currents. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The response of the circulation of a coral reef system in Kaneohe Bay, Hawaii, to incident wave forcing was investigated using field data collected during a 10-month experiment. Results from the study revealed that wave forcing was the dominant mechanism driving the circulation over much of Kaneohe Bay. As predicted theoretically, wave setup generated near the reef crest resulting from wave breaking established a pressure gradient that drove flow over the reef and out of the two reef channels. Maximum reef setup was found to be roughly proportional to the offshore wave energy flux above a threshold root-mean-square wave height of 0.7 m (at which height setup was negligible). On the reef flat, the wave-driven currents increased approximately linearly with incident wave height; however, the magnitude of these currents was relatively weak (typically <20 cm s-1) because of (i) the mild fore-reef slope of Kaneohe Bay that reduced setup resulting from a combination of frictional wave damping and its relatively wide surf zone compared to steep-faced reefs, and (ii) the presence of significant wave setup inside its coastally bounded lagoon, resulting from frictional resistance on the lagoon–channel return flows, which reduced cross-reef setup gradients by 60%–80%. In general, the dynamics of these wave-driven currents roughly matched predictions derived from quasi-one-dimensional mass and momentum balances that incorporated radiation stresses, setup gradients, bottom friction, and the morphological properties of the reef–lagoon system. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The non-hydrostatic wave-flow model SWASH was used to investigate the hydrodynamic processes at a reef fringed pocket beach in southwestern Australia (Gnarabup Beach). Gnarabup Beach is a ~1.5 km long beach with highly variable bathymetry that is bounded by rocky headlands. The site is also exposed to large waves from the Southern Ocean. The model performance was evaluated using observations collected during a field program measuring waves, currents and water levels between June and July 2017. Modeled sea-swell wave heights (periods 5–25 s), infragravity wave heights (periods 25–600 s), and wave-induced setup exhibited moderate to good agreement with the observations throughout the model domain. The mean currents, which were highly-spatially variable across the study site, were less accurately predicted at most sites. Model agreement with the observations tended to be the worst in the areas with the most uncertain bathymetry (i.e., areas where high resolution survey data was not available). The nearshore sea-swell wave heights, infragravity wave heights and setup were strongly modulated by the offshore waves. The headlands and offshore reefs also had a strong impact on the hydrodynamics within the lagoon (bordered by the reefs) by dissipating much of the offshore sea-swell wave energy and modifying the pattern of the nearshore flows (magnitude and direction). Wave breaking on the reef platforms drove strong onshore directed mean currents over the reefs, resulting in off-shore flow through channels between the reefs and headlands where water exchanges from the lagoon to ocean. Our results demonstrate that the SWASH model is able to produce realistic predictions of the hydrodynamic processes within bathymetrically-complex nearshore systems. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Feedbacks between seagrass and the local environmental conditions may hinder attempts to restore seagrass by inducing alternative stable states. A one-dimensional physical-biological model was used to identify the conditions under which a feedback between seagrass, sediment and light can yield alternative stable states of seagrass presence and absence (bistability). Based on our model results, a prediction of whether a given seagrass meadow is large enough to promote seagrass growth can now be made. If the water residence time within the spatial area of the meadow is similar to or greater than the sediment settling time, which is calculated from the ratio of water depth to sediment vertical settling velocity, the meadow is large enough for the feedback to potentially reduce the local suspended sediment concentration. This has important implications for seagrass restoration: for a proposed restoration plot, if the water residence time is similar to or greater than the sediment settling time, the scale of restoration is large enough for the feedback between seagrass, sediment and light to locally improve water clarity. More generally, this calculation can be used to identify areas where this feedback is likely to generate bistability, and to estimate the minimum suitable meadow size in such locations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Wave energy converters (WECs) will have to be arranged into arrays of many devices to extract commercially viable amounts of energy. To understand the potential coastal impacts of WEC arrays, most research to date has relied on wave-averaged models given their computational efficiency. However, it is unknown how accurate wave-averaged model predictions are given a lack of validation data and their inherent simplifications of various hydrodynamic processes (e.g., diffraction). This paper compares the predictions of coastal wave farm impacts from a coupled wave-averaged and flow model (Delft3D-SNL-SWAN), to a wave-resolving wave-flow model (SWASH) that intrinsically accounts for more of the relevant physics. Model predictions were compared using an idealized coastal bathymetry over a range of wave conditions and wave farm geometries. Both models predicted the largest impacts (changes to the nearshore hydrodynamics) for large and dense wave farms located close to the shore (1 km) and the smallest impacts for the small and widely spaced farm at a greater offshore distance (3 km). However, the wave-resolving model generally predicted somewhat larger impacts (i.e., changes to the nearshore wave heights, mean velocities and mean water levels). We also found that coupling the wave-averaged model to a flow model resulted in more realistic downstream predictions than the stand-alone wave-averaged model. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Tropical Cyclone (TC) Olwyn travelled along the coast of Ningaloo Reef in northwestern Australia as a Category 3 TC during 12–13 March 2015 with sustained wind speeds of over 130 km h−1 and significant wave heights on the forereef reaching 6 m. Observations from TC Olwyn showed that, contrary to typical wave transformation patterns across a coastal reef-lagoon, under the TC conditions there was a substantial shoreward increase of wave height. This unusual pattern was primarily due to strong local wind wave generation under the extreme wind conditions, despite the lagoon itself being relatively small (order 1 km wide) and shallow (order 1 m depth). Two common types of coastal numerical wave models that include either wave growth (i.e. the phase-averaged model SWAN) or infragravity waves (i.e. the surfbeat resolving model XBeach), but not both processes, were used to assess the capabilities of numerical models to predict the cyclone-induced hydrodynamics. Model results showed that wave conditions in the lagoon and at the shoreline were dominated by locally-generated wind waves, with the reef efficiently dissipating the large incident waves offshore. The infragravity waves in the lagoon were only of secondary importance during the TC compared to the locally-generated sea-swell waves. Although both the phase-averaged (SWAN) and surfbeat-resolving (XBeach) models were able to predict some of the local hydrodynamic responses, for this specific site and storm, the use of a phase-averaged model yielded the most accurate predictions of the hydrodynamics given that it included wind wave growth. However, because the influence of infragravity waves cannot be neglected in reef environments in general, these results emphasize the need for a more general modeling approach that requires the addition of wind wave growth formulations into surfbeat- or fully-phase resolving classes of numerical wave models and/or the addition of an infragravity wave formulation in spectral wave models. • Observations showed increasing wave heights across the lagoon at the cyclone peak. • The phase-averaged wave model SWAN reproduced the wind wave growth in the lagoon. • Locally generated wind waves were larger than infragravity waves in the lagoon at the cyclone peak... • Adding wave growth in phase- and surfbeat-resolving wave models or an IG-wave formulation in spectral wave models is needed. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]