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Assessing the percutaneous absorption of cosmetic ingredients using in-vitro human skin reveals certain limitations, such as restricted anatomical sites and repeated exposure, and to overcome these issues, in-vivo studies are required. The aim of the study is to develop a robust non-invasive in-vivo protocol that should be applicable to a wide range of application.A robust tape stripping protocol was therefore designed according to recent recommendations, and the impact of two different washing procedures on caffeine distribution in tape strips was investigated to optimise the protocol. The optimised protocol was then used to study the effect of age and anatomical area on the percutaneous absorption of caffeine, including facial areas which are not readily available for in-vitro studies.With tape stripping, a difference between the percutaneous absorption on the face (forehead, cheek) and the volar forearm was observed. No obvious difference was observed between percutaneous absorption in young and post-menopausal women, but this could be due to the limited number of subjects.This tape stripping protocol is now to be deployed to address many other factors, such as percutaneous absorption in other anatomical areas (e.g. abdomen, axilla, etc.), impact of repeated applications and effect of formulation.

Objective Endogenous hormones regulate numerous physiological processes in humans. Some of them are routinely measured in blood, saliva and/or urine for the diagnosis of disorders. The analysis of fluids may, however, require multiple samples collected at different time points to avoid the high variability in the concentration of some hormones. In contrast, hair analysis has been proposed as an interesting alternative to reveal average hormone levels over a longer period. In this work, we developed and validated an analytical method for analyzing 36 endogenous steroid and thyroid hormones and one pineal hormone in human hair using ultra-performance liquid chromatography (UPLC)-tandem mass spectrometry (MS/MS). Methods Sample preparation involved hair decontamination, pulverization, methanol extraction, and purification with C18-solid phase extraction. Extracts were then divided into two portions, respectively injected into an UPLC-MS/MS system, and analyzed using two different instrumental methods. The method was applied to a healthy female population aged 25–45 years. Results The method was validated on supplemented hair samples for the 37 targeted hormones, and its application to the population under study allowed to detect 32 compounds in 2–100% of the samples. Complete reference intervals (2.5–97.5th percentiles) were established for estrone, 17β-estradiol, androstenedione, dehydroepiandrosterone, progesterone, 17α-hydroxyprogesterone, cortisone, cortisol and 3,3’,5-triiodo-L-thyronine. Hair cortisone, cortisol, tetrahydrocortisone and tetrahydrocortisol concentrations were highly correlated with each other, with Kendall’s τ correlation coefficients ranging from 0.52 to 0.68. Conclusion Allowing the detection of 32 hormones from different chemical classes, the present method will allow to broaden hormonal profiling for better identifying endocrine disorders.

Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAH) are produced from incomplete combustion of organic matter and released as environmental contaminants from activities such as transports, wood combustion, coal-fired power plants. In numerous urban areas worldwide, the levels of PAH exposure are considered critical regarding public health issues. The possibility to detect PAH and PAH metabolites biologically incorporated in human hair was demonstrated and proposed as biomarkers of exposure. Nevertheless, the possibility to distinguish different levels of exposure between different populations is still needed to validate the relevance of hair analysis in epidemiological studies. In this work, hair samples were collected from 204 women from two cities in China based on one year Air Quality Index history from governmental data (Baoding as polluted city and Dalian less polluted city). 8 out of the 15 parent PAH and 7 out of the 56 metabolites analyzed in this study were detected in all the samples. The highest concentrations in hair were observed for phenanthrene (4.2 to 889 pg/mg) > fluoranthene (1.05 to 204 pg/mg) > pyrene (3.2 to 124 pg/mg) for parent PAH, and for 9-OH-fluorene (0.04 to 1.78 pg/mg) > 2-OH-naphthalene (0.68 to 811 pg/mg) > 1-OH-anthracene (0.24 to 10.9 pg/mg) for metabolites. 14 parent PAH and 15 metabolites presented a significantly higher concentration in the hair samples collected from Baoding, as compared to Dalian. The median concentration of parent PAH was from 1.5 to 2.8 times higher in the hair of the subjects from Baoding than in subjects from Dalian and that of PAH metabolites was from 1 to 2.3 times higher. The study of inter-chemical associations revealed similarities and differences between the two areas, suggesting common and different sources of exposure depending on PAH respectively. The results confirmed the relevance of hair analysis to identify qualitative and quantitative differences in PAH exposure between populations from different areas. This study is the first one to investigate both parent PAH and their metabolites in a biological matrix. Keywords: Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons, Hair analysis, Cumulative exposure, Environmental exposure, Biomarkers

Background Polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) are of environmental and public health concerns and contribute to adverse skin attributes such as premature skin aging and pigmentary disorder. However, little information is available on the potential roles of chronic urban PAH pollutant exposure on the cutaneous microbiota. Given the roles of the skin microbiota have on healthy and undesirable skin phenotypes and the relationships between PAHs and skin properties, we hypothesize that exposure of PAHs may be associated with changes in the cutaneous microbiota. In this study, the skin microbiota of over two hundred Chinese individuals from two cities in China with varying exposure levels of PAHs were characterized by bacterial and fungal amplicon and shotgun metagenomics sequencing. Results Skin site and city were strong parameters in changing microbial communities and their assembly processes. Reductions of bacterial-fungal microbial network structural integrity and stability were associated with skin conditions (acne and dandruff). Multivariate analysis revealed associations between abundances of Propionibacterium and Malassezia with host properties and pollutant exposure levels. Shannon diversity increase was correlated to exposure levels of PAHs in a dose-dependent manner. Shotgun metagenomics analysis of samples (n = 32) from individuals of the lowest and highest exposure levels of PAHs further highlighted associations between the PAHs quantified and decrease in abundances of skin commensals and increase in oral bacteria. Functional analysis identified associations between levels of PAHs and abundance of microbial genes of metabolic and other pathways with potential importance in host-microbe interactions as well as degradation of aromatic compounds. Conclusions The results in this study demonstrated the changes in composition and functional capacities of the cutaneous microbiota associated with chronic exposure levels of PAHs. Findings from this study will aid the development of strategies to harness the microbiota in protecting the skin against pollutants.

International audience; Humans are exposed to various anthropogenic chemicals in daily life, including endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs). However, there are limited data on chronic, low-level exposure to such contaminants among the general population. Here hair analysis was used to investigate the occurrence of four polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs), seven polybrominated diphenyl ethers (PBDEs) and two bisphenols (BPs) in 204 Chinese women living in the urban areas of Baoding and Dalian and 311 pregnant French women. All the PCBs and PBDEs tested here were more frequently detected in the hair samples of the French women than in those of the Chinese women. In both cohorts, PCB 180 and BDE 47 were the dominant PCB and PBDE congener, respectively. PCB 180 was found in 82% of the French women and 44% of the Chinese women, while the corresponding values of BDE 47 were 54% and 11%, respectively. A discriminant analysis further demonstrated the difference in PCBs and PBDEs exposure profile between the two cohorts. These results demonstrate that hair analysis is sufficiently sensitive to detect exposure to these pollutants and highlight differences in exposure between populations even at environmental levels. Although BPA and BPS were found in 100% of the hair samples in both cohorts, the French women had significantly higher levels of BPA and BPS than the Chinese women. The median concentrations of BPA were one order of magnitude higher than BPS in both the Chinese (34.9 versus 2.84 pg/mg) and the French women (118 versus 8.01 pg/mg) respectively. Our results suggest that both French and Chinese populations were extensively exposed to BPA and BPS.

The high use of pesticides worldwide and the constant exposure of humans to these toxic-by-design chemicals have drawn the attention on the possible consequences on human health. However, information on the exposure of the general population to pesticides remain very limited in most countries, especially in urban areas. In the present work, hair analysis was conducted to investigate the exposure of 204 urban women living in two Chinese cities (Baoding and Dalian) to 110 pesticides and 30 metabolites of the following families: organochlorines, organophosphates, carbamates, pyrethroids, neonicotinoids, phenylpyrazoles, acid herbicides, urea herbicides and azoles. Results showed that 71 pesticides and 23 metabolites were found in the hair samples, with concentrations ranging up to 1070 pg/mg in hair. In each hair sample, the number of detected chemicals ranged from 25 to 50, demonstrating the cumulative exposure to pesticides among Chinese women in the studied regions. The concentrations of 38 chemicals (e.g., p-nitrophenol, diethyldithiophosphate, λ-cyhalothrin, permethrin, carbendazim and tebuconazole) were significantly different between women in Baoding and Dalian, indicating the regional differences in exposure to pesticide. Using a multiple regression analysis, we found that concentrations of a few dominant pesticides were associated with age, body mass index (BMI), cooking frequency and regions. These results can provide baseline information on exposure of female adult Chinese population to multiple pesticides and support future studies focused on the health effects associated with pesticide exposure. Keywords: Multiclass pesticides, Metabolites, Human biomonitoring, Hair analysis, Urban residents, Environmental pollution