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Cover factor is defined as the ratio of the area covered by yarns to the total area of the fabric. This fabric’s characteristic is a basic construction parameter of woven cloth related to its end-use behaviour. Different authors are focused on studying the effect of the cover factor fabric on different properties of the fabric, like air permeability, ultraviolet protection, noise absorption and light transmission. However, the aim of this work is study the capacity of the weft to achieve a certain degree of coverage in the woven fabric, taking advantage of the warp's ability to allow light to pass through its own structure and the opacity of the weft.

The article in its first part aims to give an account of the introduction of the term “deconstruction” in the field of fashion and studies dedicated to it. Since “deconstruction” has spread like a virus in North American culture since the 1980s, it is intended to verify the congruence of this spread that has reached the fashion world through the success of architectural deconstructivism. Beyond various generic and superficial references, a certain interest in the work of fashion designer Martin Margela has been recognized. Starting from this general framework, an attempt was made to show what themes and resources “deconstruction” can offer to fashion studies, in particular through the reading of a text by Derrida dedicated to the figure of the “veil” in the tradition of Western culture., ZoneModa Journal, Vol 10, No 1 (2020): Decostruzione

This master thesis studies the recycling prospects of textiles. The textile industry contributes negatively to the global environmentthrough the release of greenhouse gases and consumption of resources. In order to achieve a circular textile industry, textiles must be recyclable by both chemical and mechanical means. Here, the focus is on mechanical extraction of staple fibres, particularly cotton, for reentry into yarn production. Experiments show that used, but undamaged, cotton sateen and cotton twill responds differently to abrasion with stochastic surfaces. Previous studies on the conventional shredding processes have shown positive impact from lubricants on extracted fibre lengths, by reducing inter-fibre friction. In the present study on abrasion, variables such as alignment of the weave pattern, lubrication and load are shown to have little to no impact on extracted fibre length, but notable effects on overall fibre quality. These analyses are supported by manual length assessment, electron micrographs and tensile tests using load cells. Furthermore, simple tests and observations on structured diamond surfaces constructed through chemical vapor deposition are promising for mechanical fibre release directly from a woven fabric. Suggestions are made on continued research in this field.

Record Tochio Tsumugi （pongee） woven at Watanabe family living in Tochio, Nagaoka city, Niigata Prefecture. Women of the Watanabe family went from domesticated silkworms to yarn making, dyeing, weaving and tailoring at home

Over the last decade, the progressive application of natural fibres in polymer composites has had a major effect in alleviating environmental impacts. Recently, there is a growing interest in the development of green materials in a woven form by utilising natural fibres from lignocellulosic materials for many applications such as structural, non-structural composites, household utilities, automobile parts, aerospace components, flooring, and ballistic materials. Woven materials are one of the most promising materials for substituting or hybridising with synthetic polymeric materials in the production of natural fibre polymer composites (NFPCs). These woven materials are flexible, able to be tailored to the specific needs and have better mechanical properties due to their weaving structures. Seeing that the potential advantages of woven materials in the fabrication of NFPC, this paper presents a detailed review of studies related to woven materials. A variety of factors that influence the properties of the resultant woven NFRC such as yarn characteristics, fabric properties as well as manufacturing parameters were discussed. Past and current research efforts on the development of woven NFPCs from various polymer matrices including polypropylene, polylactic acid, epoxy and polyester and the properties of the resultant composites were also compiled. Last but not least, the applications, challenges, and prospects in the field also were highlighted.

Bornozluk dokuma kumaşlarda üretimin farklı aşamalarında oluşabilen kumaş hataları, kumaşların müşteriye gönderilmeden önce kontrol edilerek birinci veya ikinci kalite olarak sınıflandırılmasını gerektirmektedir. Bu çalışmada, iki farklı sipariş için üretilen bornozluk kadife kumaş yüklemeleri öncesi, ışıklı panoda deneyimli kalite kontrol elemanları tarafından kumaş toplarının hata kontrolü yapılmıştır. Kontrol sırasında görülen farklı hataların sayıları ve hata boyutları kalite kontrol kartlarına işlenmiştir. Tespit edilen hataların tanımları yapılmış ve kumaş hataları farklı hata puan sistemlerine göre puanlandırılmıştır. Bu sayede kumaş topları konfeksiyon işletmesine sevk edilmeden önce hata puan sistemlerine göre sınıflandırılmıştır. Üretici ve müşterinin üzerinde anlaşmaya vardığı bir hata puan sistemine göre yapılan sınıflandırma sayesinde anlaşmazlıkların önüne geçilebilecektir. Fabric defects that may occur at different stages of woven terry fabric production requires quality control and classification of fabrics as first or second grade before sending to customer. In this study, before shipping of two different terry fabric orders, defects were detected by inspection of fabric rolls on a lighted control board by experienced experts. Number of the defects and dimensions of the defects seen during the inspection were noted on quality control charts. Detected defects were defined and scored according to different demerit point systems. In this way, the fabric rolls were classified according to the demerit point systems before being shipped to garment enterprises. Disputes can be avoided with classification made by a demerit point system on which manufacturer and the customer have agreed.

Fabric defects that may occur at different stages of woven terry fabric production requires quality control and classification of fabrics as first or second grade before sending to customer. In this study, before shipping of two different terry fabric orders, defects were detected by inspection of fabric rolls on a lighted control board by experienced experts. Number of the defects and dimensions of the defects seen during the inspection were noted on quality control charts. Detected defects were defined and scored according to different demerit point systems. In this way, the fabric rolls were classified according to the demerit point systems before being shipped to garment enterprises. Disputes can be avoided with classification made by a demerit point system on which manufacturer and the customer have agreed., Bornozluk dokuma kumaşlarda üretimin farklı aşamalarında oluşabilen kumaş hataları, kumaşların müşteriye gönderilmeden önce kontrol edilerek birinci veya ikinci kalite olarak sınıflandırılmasını gerektirmektedir. Bu çalışmada, iki farklı sipariş için üretilen bornozluk kadife kumaş yüklemeleri öncesi, ışıklı panoda deneyimli kalite kontrol elemanları tarafından kumaş toplarının hata kontrolü yapılmıştır. Kontrol sırasında görülen farklı hataların sayıları ve hata boyutları kalite kontrol kartlarına işlenmiştir. Tespit edilen hataların tanımları yapılmış ve kumaş hataları farklı hata puan sistemlerine göre puanlandırılmıştır. Bu sayede kumaş topları konfeksiyon işletmesine sevk edilmeden önce hata puan sistemlerine göre sınıflandırılmıştır. Üretici ve müşterinin üzerinde anlaşmaya vardığı bir hata puan sistemine göre yapılan sınıflandırma sayesinde anlaşmazlıkların önüne geçilebilecektir.

Measurements of the internal geometry of a carbon fiber non-crimp 3D orthogonal woven composite are presented, including: waviness of the yarns, cross sections of the yarns, dimensions of the yarn cross sections, and local fiber volume fraction. The measured waviness of warp and fill yarns are well below 0.1%, which shows that the fabric termed here “non-crimp” has nearly straight in-plane fibers as-produced, and this feature is maintained after going through all steps of fabric handling and composite manufacturing. The variability of dimensions of the yarns is in the range of 4–8% for warp and fill directions, while the variability of the yarn spacing is in the range of 3–4%. These variability parameters are lower than respective ranges of variability of the yarn waviness and the cross-sectional dimensions in typical carbon 2D weave and 3D interlock weave composites, which are also illustrated in this work for comparison.

The aim of this study was to investigate the changes in properties of wool fibres through the all phases of the production processes from fibre to woven fabric. Research on fibres were carried out before spinning, after spinning and after weaving and on the yarns before weaving and after weaving. According to obtained results it can be determined that noticeable changes in the properties of the fibres and yarns through these phases have arisen. The biggest changes were recorded in the process of weaving. It was also noticed that the weave influences the changes in properties of the fibres, yarns and fabrics. Direction of the fabric that had a greater number of threads transitioning from fabric face side on the reverse side, and vice versa, have major changes in fibres and yarns strength utilization in the fabric, which means that the weave directly influences the changes in the fibres and yarns properties.

Fabric defects that occur during weaving production causes wastage at garment production. If fabric defects can not be detected during garment production, causes separation of the finished product as second quality. In this study, in a weaving mill, raw fabrics were inspected during three weeks for defect detection after weaving operation and results were investigated using statistical methods. Detected fabric defects has been classified and noted on quality control charts. For statistical investigation of number of defects pareto analysis and p control charts were used from statistical process control methods.

Fabric defects that may occur at different stages of woven terry fabric production requires quality control and classification of fabrics as first or second grade before sending to customer. In this study, before shipping of two different terry fabric orders, defects were detected by inspection of fabric rolls on a lighted control board by experienced experts. Number of the defects and dimensions of the defects seen during the inspection were noted on quality control charts. Detected defects were defined and scored according to different demerit point systems. In this way, the fabric rolls were classified according to the demerit point systems before being shipped to garment enterprises. Disputes can be avoided with classification made by a demerit point system on which manufacturer and the customer have agreed.

In this study, the number of specific woven fabric defects occured on raw terry fabrics during weaving production were investigated with statistical process control techniques. Raw fabrics of a selected standart fabric production were inspected for defect detection after weaving operation in a towel production company. Defects were detected by inspection of fabric on a lighted control board by experienced experts. Number of defects were noted on quality control charts. Applying pareto analysis, defects were revealed that formed 80% of total defects. Cause-effect diagrams and p control charts were created and solution suggestions to avoid these defects were presented keeping in mind that eliminating elementary causes, which is 20% of total problems, can resolve 80% of resources of problems.

Almedahls have for some time started to receive more customer complaints about uneven roller blind fabrics or so-called waves over fabric. The waves are a major problem for Almedahls customers since they make it hard to cut the fabric into roller blinds. The company believes that the waves appear due to different process parameters within their finishing line but the company do not yet know how or where. The thesis project strives to find an explanation to what waves over fabric are, why they appear and how they can be reduced. The documentation that Almedahls have made of the problem so far, including photographs and customer complaints reports, was examined. Orders produced from four selected grey-weaves during the last three years was examined and compared to received customer complaints and standard operations lists. No clear relationship was found and weaves with longer process lines did not seem to cause more waves to appear. However, addition of an extra colouring to the standard operations appeared to be more frequently occurring when a standard operations list had been changed.Waves over fabric were at an early stage related to the mechanical properties of the weaves as the weaves are exposed to stresses and strains during the entire production line. In Almedahls’ finishing line the web and the beam tensions and the levelling mechanisms in the stenter frames appeared to be the parameters which especially apply stresses and strains. Tensile tests were performed to examine the mechanical properties of a few of Almedahls grey-weaves and half processed weave. The test results showed that a strain between 11-27 % can be applied before the test samples start to deform while calculations of the amount of strain applied by the stenter frames showed to be much less, between 2.5-3.5 %. The difference in size between the test samples and the weaves must be considered when comparing these results. The small, repeated strains applied by the finishing line may eventually lead to permanent deformation of the weaves and appear as waves. The combination of the web and the beam tensions can also result in a stretch in the bias-direction of the weave which cause deformation in the middle of the weave where waves most often appear.The thermal properties of the same weaves were also tested through DSC, Differential Scanning Calorimetry, tests. The test results showed that the polyester material in the weaves does not melt or deform at the temperatures Almedahls use in their processes. The shrinkage of the grey-weaves during the de-sizing processes was also considered through width measurements. The conclusion was that the structure of the grey-weave influences how much the weave will shrink and the dimension change of the weave may influence the appearance of waves and needs more investigation. Program: Magisterutbildning i textilteknologi

The fabric of the city. A folded roof plane. Textile brick. The density of a weave. A fabric's structure. A hem's meter. The selvage. The fringe. Weaving. The connections drawn between textiles and architecture are limitless. Can a building and the processes that occur within it stitch together the holes in a city? The project explores the relationship between weaving and architecture. Can all aspects of the building - from spatial sequences and circulation to structure and skin - be woven? Master of Architecture

In this work the interactive evolutionary algorithm for computer creation of harmony between the weave and colours of the fabric is described. Due to special demands and constraints, typical for evolutionary algorithm applied in the design of the fabric, it was necessary to use new and original operators of recombination. The used spectrum of colours is adapted to the creation of the harmony between the weave and colours of the fabric, but the division of the hue, saturation and value part isn't linear and even. It is shown the way of changing pattern of colour for warp and weft using mutation. During the process of changing the pattern of colours for warp and weft, the creation of colours that don't exist in chosen pallet using the described algorithm is prevented. As there are no data about the values of parameters for such algorithm, it was necessary to define new parameters based on extensive empiric investigations done with definite number of persons questioned. This can leads us to the conclusion based on numerous investigations that performing it, the suggested version of evolutionary algorithm can successfully be used in creating the harmony between the weave and colours.