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The interest in Pickering emulsions is based on the possibility of replacing classical emulsifiers with solid particles. These emulsions are very attractive in the pharmaceutical field for their stability virtues and as a vehicle to deliver active ingredients. The study aimed to analyze the properties of the residual film of the Pickering emulsions on the human skin compared to conventional systems. For this project, three types of solid particles were used: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and silicon dioxide. All of them are capable of stabilizing the oil/water interface and thus forming totally emulsified systems. To create an emulsion of reference, a classical surfactant was used as an excipient. Complementary systems containing both particles and the emulsifier were also analyzed. Then, a combined approach between physicochemical and biometrological in vivo analysis was employed. The study proved that Pickering emulsions stabilized by the metal oxides were distinct from the reference emulsion in terms of droplet sizes and organization, rheological and textural responses. Consequently, it impacted the properties of the residual film once the product was applied to the skin. The particle-stabilized emulsions formed a hydrophobic film counter to conventional excipients. Also, the Friction parameter (or the roughness of the film) was directly linked to the quantity of the particles used in the formulation and their perception on the skin surface. The use of the particles blurs the glossy effect of the oil phase. Finally, it was observed that the appearance of the residual film was impacted by the type of the particle, namely TiO 2 and ZnO particles., Competing Interests: Declaration of competing interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (Copyright © 2024 The Author(s). Published by Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

This study focuses on the fate of excipients contained in topical emulsions once applied on the skin. The aim was thus to develop a methodology to characterize the residue left on the skin shortly after emulsion application. To this end, both the role and the impact of the different excipients on the formation and properties of the residue left on the skin surface once a product is applied were investigated. To that purpose, an O/W emulsion composed of an ester as oily phase, an emulsifier (alkylpolyglucoside-based vehicles), a polymer and a humectant (hydrophilic excipient) was first developed. Then, systems with fewer ingredients were prepared to understand their respective role in the residual film. This residual film was studied in vivo by means of biophysical instrumental methods, all being performed on the participants' forearm. Results highlighted the major role of the ester giving a bright and hydrophobic residue. While the surfactant structuration as the presence of glycerin and polymer provided a specific water distribution inside the residue on the skin surface. Finally, this work evidenced the ingredients organization in the residue depending on the systems composition, with a particular stratification on skin surface which could be considered in the formulation strategy for efficient active delivery and skin protection., Competing Interests: Declaration of Competing Interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (Copyright © 2020 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

Objective: The increasing interest for the Pickering emulsions is based on the possibility to replace classical emulsifiers by the solid particles. This approach is extremely attractive for the cosmetic field. But, the main difficulty is to obtain stable emulsions with appreciable skin feel. However, there is no information about the texture of such systems. The aim of this study is to formulate and describe the textural properties of cosmetic Pickering emulsions compared with conventional systems., Methods: Three metal oxides were selected: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide and silicon dioxide, able to form stable and totally emulsified systems. A conventional emulsifier was used to formulate the emulsion of reference. Finally, the mixture of two emulsifying systems, combining both, surfactant and particles, was also studied. Then, a sensory panel was asked to quantify the intensities of the perception of the seven discriminating attributes., Results: Each particle brought its properties to the textural perception of the emulsion. TiO 2 particles ensured the whitening effect of the emulsions, SiO 2 provided the screech residue, whereas ZnO gave intermediate results. The conventional surfactant was perceived as glossy, greasy and more difficult to spread. The particle/surfactant mixtures gave mostly in-between results., Conclusions: The study shows that the sensory profile of Pickering emulsions is indirectly and directly governed by the particle properties used for the emulsion stabilization: indirectly, through affecting the emulsion orientation (oil in water or water in oil), the droplet organization and viscosity, and directly, through the particle perception on the skin surface., (© 2020 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.)

Objective: The sensory perception of cosmetic emulsions is complex as it is governed by an important number of parameters like the choice of raw materials, their interactions, the structural organisation of the system, etc. The aim of the present work was to go further in the interpretation of the emollient-surfactant interactions, towards the emulsions applicative properties. For this purpose, two systems containing liquid crystals of the lamellar type were formulated, differing only in the selected emollient., Methods: First, the liquid crystals types were checked using different tools like the optical microscopy under the bright and polarized light, the wide-angle X rays diffraction and, finally, thermogravimetric analysis. Next, two sensory attributes, namely compression force and difficulty of spreading, were evaluated by a sensory panel. In addition to that, complementary instrumental characterizations (flow tests, textural analysis and contact angle measurements) were performed in order to understand how the panel could discriminate the products., Results: The results showed that isohexadecane emollient induces the α-gel structures, while caprylic capric triglycerides favour the formation of the lamellar liquid crystals near to α-gel. For the compression force, the results point out that there is no direct interaction between the oil phase and the skin. For this attribute, depending on its chemical structure, emollient impacts the human perception only by changing the lamellar phase type. Concerning the difficulty of spreading, both the emulsion structure and the emollient properties should be considered. Immediate perception is impacted by the emulsions destruction, making the droplet roll one on each other. Then, once the droplets monolayer is disrupted, the emollient comes into direct contact with the skin. In this case, the perception is governed by the direct affinity of the emollient with the skin, nonpolar emollients being easier to spread if compared to polar ones., Conclusion: The sensory perception is guided not only by the choice of the raw materials but also by their interactions. It was shown that the chemical structure of the emollients affected the molecular organization of liquid crystals present in the emulsion and, consequently, directly or indirectly its sensory perception., (© 2018 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.)

Filament stretchability of xanthan gum (XG) and hydroxypropyl guar (HPG) was investigated in aqueous solutions (0.125, 0.25, 0.5, 1, 1.2 and 1.5% w/w) and in O/W emulsions using a texture analyzer. Additionally, rheological characterizations were carried out on the systems and shear and oscillation parameters were used to interpret stretching properties. XG solutions exhibited a solid-like behavior with rheological parameters much higher than for HPG one whatever the concentration. Filament stretching values of XG solutions were superior to HPG for concentration below 1% w/w and then became comparable for higher concentrations. No meaningful relationship was found between rheological and stretching values. Synergy was observed for all XG/HPG mixtures at 0.125, 0.25 and 0.5% influencing both the rheological and the filament stretching values. The 25/75 XG/HPG ratio showed the maximum synergistic effect at all concentrations while the filament stretchability was enhanced in a wider range of ratios. XG and HPG did not present the same behavior in emulsions. No clear synergistic effect was observed and XG markedly influenced the emulsion filament stretching., (Copyright © 2014 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.)

The filament stretching properties of various polysaccharides (including xanthan, carob, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropylmethyl and hydroxyethyl celluloses) were investigated and compared to synthetic polymers generally used as texturing agents in cosmetic emulsions. The stretchability was examined by sensory evaluation as "the amount of sample that strings rather than breaks when fingers are separated". Different behaviors were evidenced: the xanthan emulsion showed the highest stretchability, followed by the hydroxypropyl guar and hydroxyethyl cellulose emulsions while the synthetic polymers presented stretching properties to a much lesser extent. The instrumental characterization of the stretchability was conducted at a controlled speed and recorded with a camera using a texture analyzer. The maximum stretchable length at 40mm/s was highly significantly correlated to the sensory Stringiness, thus allowing a good predictability of this attribute. Finally, this method was applied to aqueous solutions to better understand the role of the polymers in emulsion and to validate the measurement on a wider range of products., (Copyright © 2012 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.)

This study deals with the impact of emollients on the spreading properties of cosmetic products using a combined sensory-instrumental approach. To that purpose, three esters and one silicone were selected and incorporated separately into an oil phase. Different cosmetic o/w emulsions were then prepared with these different oil phases. Both of them were analyzed by instrumental techniques and in vivo sensory analyses. A significant effect of the emollient used was established in emulsions and in oil phases as well. Concerning emulsions, results reveal a clear correlation between in vivo spreading evaluation and friction coefficient parameters measured by texture analyzer, despite a fairly low correlation coefficient (Pearson coefficient=-0.78). Concerning oil phases, characterization of spreading was done by monitoring the contact angle relaxation of a drop of solution after deposition on a flat PMMA surface whereas sensory procedure was based on spontaneous spreading of oil phases onto the skin. Finally, good correlations between in vivo sensory analysis and instrumental measurements of both oils and emulsions were found, thus promising the possible development of predictive tools to evaluate spreadability., (Copyright © 2012 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)