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Plant polyphenols have been found to be effective in preventing or reducing different skin alterations. A dietary approach based on these compounds could be a safe and effective method to slow down or prevent age-associated deterioration of skin appearance and function. In a previous study, a specific combination of four botanical extracts (pomegranate, sweet orange, herba Cistanche, and Centella asiatica) exhibited potential anti-aging effects in a dermal fibroblast cell model. The present study aims to clinically evaluate the safety and anti-aging efficacy of this new botanical ingredient (eternalyoung®). To this end, a 12-week randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study was carried out in 60 Caucasian women with evident signs of both chrono- and photoaging. Product efficacy was measured as follows: skin moisturization (corneometer), transepidermal water loss (tewameter), skin radiance, and color (spectrophotometer), skin elasticity and firmness (cutometer), skin roughness (image analysis), and skin thickness (ultrasound). Both intergroup and intragroup analysis proved that the daily intake of 225 mg of the active ingredient was enough to produce visible and structural improvements to the skin and to the signs of aging without any side effects. Statistically significant improvements compared to the placebo group were observed as early as 4 weeks regarding wrinkle depth, elasticity, firmness, skin thickness, skin moisturization, transepidermal water loss, and dark spots pigmentation. In addition, the subjects who consumed the blend reported better scores on the self-assessment questionnaires. Our results suggest that the intake of the test product can positively affect the appearance, barrier function, and skin density of aged skin after 12 weeks of treatment.

Aminocarbonyl proteins increase with age in the dermal layer. Gene Chip analysis of mRNA expression in human dermal fibroblasts cultured on collagen gels treated with glyceraldehyde as an aminocarbonyl protein and on untreated collagen gels showed a decrease in the amount of aquaporin 1 (AQP1) mRNA. In this study, we clarified the involvement of AQP1 in collagen gel contraction and the production of fibrillin 1 and type I collagen in cultured human dermal fibroblasts. In the experiment, AQP1 siRNA was transfected into cultured human dermal fibroblasts to deplete AQP1, and the cell motility and contractile activity of the collagen gel were assessed. The production of fibrillin 1 and type I collagen was also examined by RT–qPCR and antibody staining. AQP1 depletion decreased the collagen gel contractile activity, and both the amount of mRNA and the antibody staining of fibrillin 1 and type I collagen decreased. Furthermore, the depletion of AQP1 reduced the levels of F-actin and phosphorylated myosin light chain 2, suggesting their involvement in reductions of the motility and collagen gel contractile activity of fibroblasts. These findings suggest that AQP1 is an important biomolecule for cell motility in human dermal fibroblasts and that decreased motility results in decreased expression of extracellular matrix proteins such as fibrillin 1 and type I collagen.

Skin dryness, fine lines and wrinkles, red spots, red vasculature, and porphyrin count are common indicators of skin health and beauty. The skincare system in this study contains scientifically validated ingredients such as fermented green tea (Camellia sinensis) water, niacinamide, antioxidants, and a variety of natural plant extracts. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the effectiveness of this skincare system in improving facial-skin health and beauty. Twenty-six healthy adults, both female and male, aged 18–54 and of all skin types and tones, were included in the study and participated as either the active or the control group (competitor product) using designated topical products for 30 days. Skin moisture, fine lines and wrinkles, porphyrin count, red spots, and red vasculature count were measured through high-quality photography, Visia® complexion analysis, FitSkin® skin analysis, and survey questions on day 0, day 8, and day 30. Significant improvements were observed in facial moisture, red-spot count, red vasculature count, and porphyrin count on day 30 in comparison with the control group. Non-significant improvements were observed in pores, skin texture, and wrinkles. With extensive well-documented functional ingredients, the studied skincare system used daily may significantly improve key areas of skin health and beauty.

Introduction Women aged ≥ 45 years are known to experience various menopausal symptoms due to reduced oestrogen levels. Changes associated with cutaneous ageing, such as wrinkles and sagging, are also prominent in women in this age group. Numerous studies have evaluated the usefulness of individual basic nutrients and essential components, such as amino acids and vitamins, in menopausal women. The aim of this study was to comprehensively assess the effects of supplements containing amino acid and vitamin combinations on menopausal symptoms and age-related changes in the skin. Methods This is a randomised, placebo-controlled study on the effects of a supplement containing three types of amino acids [leucine, glutamine and arginine (LGA)] and 11 types of vitamins in 37 middle-aged women. The participants ingested either the test substance or a placebo twice daily for 8 consecutive weeks, at the end of which time the efficacy and safety of the test substance were assessed based on subjective symptoms of fatigue, Simplified Menopausal Index (SMI) score, the grade and number of wrinkles at the corners of the eyes, results of an analysis of the stratum corneum of the cheek and blood test results. Results None of the participants experienced adverse events, and all items assessed in our survey of subjective symptoms of fatigue showed a significant decrease in the test substance group (LGA group). Additionally, the SMI score of the LGA group was significantly lower than that of the placebo group. The LGA group showed significant improvement in the grade of the wrinkles in the corners of the eyes and the number of wrinkles, and the stratum corneum cell area declined significantly in the LGA group compared to the placebo group at the end of the study. Conclusion These results indicate that the vitamin-containing amino acid supplement improved menopausal symptoms and age-related changes in the skin (wrinkles). Trial Registration UMIN000029830.

This study, for the first time, evaluated the safety and efficacy of a new natural-based topical gel containing a spirulina extract. This photoconverter gel generates fluorescent light energy (FLE) via a red LED light device, which is proven to be effective for age control of facial skin. This was a one-centre, observational, uncontrolled pilot trial. Eight healthy female subjects aged 35 to 65 years old, with Fitzpatrick skin types II–V were recruited. The duration of the study was five treatment sessions of one treatment every seven days, with a final follow-up at one month after the last treatment session. The images and the related data were acquired with the SONY® Mod. DSCRX10M3, the Canfield VISIA Facial Imaging System®, and QUANTIFICARE 3D® analysis. Patient compliance was excellent (100%) and the treatment was described as warm and pleasant by the patients. After 30 days, VISIA parameters such as wrinkles, texture, red areas, and Trueskin Age® had improved. The safety and efficacy of the FLE treatment assessed in this trial were achieved for overall rejuvenation of facial skin, focusing on wrinkles evaluated via the specific VISIA algorithms.

Background The spread of COVID‐19 has made mask wear essential. Expecting that long‐term mask wear would change the characteristics of skin, this study investigated changes in skin wrinkles and pores caused by long‐term mask wear and whether or not use of moisturizers has an effect on any changes. Materials and methods The study participants were 20 women who were instructed to wear a mask for at least 6 hours a day for 4 weeks. Measurements of skin wrinkles and pores were obtained before and after the 4 weeks of mask wear. The effects of application of a moisturizer were assessed by applying moisturizer within the mask‐wearing area. They completed a questionnaire about skin changes at the end of the study period. Results After wearing the mask for 4 weeks, there was a significant increase in the skin wrinkles and pores; both variables decreased significantly in skin areas where a moisturizer had been applied. The results of the questionnaire‐based survey indicated the study participants considered that long‐term wearing of a mask had affected their skin. Conclusion Wearing a mask for extended periods increases skin wrinkles and pores and using a moisturizer when wearing the mask helps to reduce this problem.

Background Despite promising results, laser-assisted drug delivery (LADD) is not yet considered as standard therapies and published data rely mainly on laboratory tests, animal experiments or cadaver skin. Objectives This double-blind, prospective, randomized clinical trial investigates the impact in topical application of vitamin C and a cosmeceutical containing growth factors (GFs) on periorbital wrinkles primarily treated with laser skin resurfacing. Material and Methods In total, 149 female patients with periorbital wrinkles were consented and randomized into two study groups, R-C (receiving vitamin C only) and R-CGF (receiving vitamin C and a cosmeceutical containing growth factors). The statistical analysis evaluated the efficacy of each treatment regimen using software readouts provided by a three-dimensional stereophotogrammetry system prior to treatment and three months after the procedure. Results were compared to confirm if there was a significant change in the skin roughness and the average depth of the wrinkles between the two groups after treatment. Results There was a significant reduction in both skin roughness and average depth of the wrinkles in the group treated with vitamin C and growth factors (p Conclusion Controlled laser application might have a great potential to facilitate the absorption of exogenous macromolecules by the skin. Periorbital wrinkles were reduced in both groups, but LADD using vitamin C and GFs provided significantly better results. Level of Evidence II This journal requires that authors assign a level of evidence to each article. For a full description of these Evidence-Based Medicine ratings, please refer to the Table of Contents or the online Instructions to Authors www.springer.com/00266.

Gerhard Sattler,1 Martina Kerscher,2 Ernst Magnus Noah,3 Welf Prager,4 Tanja C Fischer,5 Patricia Ogilvie,6 Matthias Hofmann,7 Hanna Dersch,7 Gemma Odena8 1Rosenparkklinik GmbH, Darmstadt, Germany; 2Division of Biochemistry and Molecular Biology, Cosmetic Science, University of Hamburg, Hamburg, Germany; 3Department of Plastic, Reconstructive, Aesthetic and Hand Surgery, Kassel, Germany; 4Prager & Partner Dermatologische Praxis, Hamburg, Germany; 5Haut- Und Lasercentrum Berlin-Potsdam, Potsdam, Germany; 6SkinConcept, Munich, Germany; 7Merz Pharmaceuticals GmbH, Frankfurt Am Main, Germany; 8Merz North America, Inc., Raleigh, NC, USACorrespondence: Gerhard Sattler Email gerhard.sattler@rosenparkklinik.deBackground: Facial aging is characterized by increased prominence of nasolabial folds (NLFs), marionette lines, and thinning of the lips. Cross-linked hyaluronic acid injection is a very effective method for the temporary correction of these areas.Objective: To confirm the clinical performance and the safety of Etermis 3 (ET3) and/or Etermis 4 (ET4) in the treatment of moderate and severe wrinkles/folds, as well as lip volume enhancement.Methods: Subjects were treated in at least two facial areas (NLFs, marionette lines, lips). ET3 was used in facial moderate wrinkles while ET4 was used in severe facial skin volume loss. An optional touch-up 1 month after treatment was possible. A blinded investigator assessed improvement on Merz Aesthetic Scales (MAS). Subjects were followed-up for 12 months after the last treatment.Results: In total, 154 healthy subjects were enrolled. The proportion of subjects achieving ≥ 1 score improvement in MAS after treatment was above 60% for ET4 (Month 6/7: NLFs 94.9% and marionette lines 81.4%, p≤ 0.0004; Month 3/4: lips 63.0%, p=0.39) and ET3 (Month 6/7: marionette lines 79.4%, p=0.0005; Month 3/4: lips 65.5%, p=0.31). Facial improvement was still visible at Month 12/13 for ET4 (NLFs ≥ 76.6%, marionette lines ≥ 61%, lips ≥ 36%) and ET3 (marionette lines ≥ 50% and lips ≥ 21.9%). No treatment-related serious AEs occurred. The most frequent AEs were injection-site reactions.Conclusion: Etermis 3 and Etermis 4 demonstrated good clinical performance and safety for NLFs and marionette lines volume enhancement for up to 12 months. Both products can also be used safely to treat lips for volume augmentation.Keywords: hyaluronic acid, wrinkles, facial volume enhancement

Hyaluronan (HA) is present in all connective tissues and organs, including the skin and joint fluid. However, few clinical trials have comprehensively evaluated the impacts of oral HA on skin conditions, including wrinkles and moisturization. In this study, we conducted a placebo-controlled, randomized, double-blind trial of daily HA (120 mg) intake for 12 weeks in 40 healthy Asian men and women (aged 35–64 years). Skin condition was determined by the evaluation of wrinkles, stratum corneum water content, the amount of transepidermal water loss, elasticity, and through image analysis. After 12 weeks, skin condition was significantly improved in terms of wrinkle assessment, stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss, and elasticity in the HA group compared to the placebo group. Regarding the percentage change from baseline, wrinkle assessment, stratum corneum water content, and skin elasticity were significantly improved in the HA group versus the placebo group after 8 and 12 weeks of ingestion. The present findings indicate that oral ingestion of HA may suppress wrinkles and improve skin condition.

Two studies were designed to evaluate the potential cosmetic benefit of a biomimetic, niacinamide-containing moisturizing cream for the first time in humans.In both studies, healthy women were randomized to use two treatments, one for the left side of the body and one for the right, from three options: the test cream, a positive control or no treatment (use of standard cleanser only). Treatments were applied twice daily for 4 weeks to the face and forearms (Study 1) or the face only (Study 2). Instrumental and clinical skin assessments were performed by trained technicians. Study 1 involved tape stripping and a 5-day no-treatment ('regression') period at the end of the 4 weeks. Independent lay graders were asked to grade the skin texture of subjects in Study 2 from high-resolution photographs.In Study 1 (n = 66), the test cream significantly decreased the transepidermal water loss (TEWL) values on the forearm, and in the cheek area of the face, relative to baseline and compared to no treatment, and increased skin Corneometer values. The improvements were partially retained during a subsequent 5-day period of no treatment. Increases in TEWL values on skin subjected to tape stripping were significantly lower after 4 weeks of using the test cream compared to no treatment. In Study 2 (n = 72 subjects with visible signs of ageing), there was a favourable trend in the change from baseline of a skin roughness parameter, RTwice daily application of the test cream over 4 weeks had beneficial effects on skin barrier function, moisturization, wrinkle dimensions and elasticity compared to no treatment. These studies provide proof-of-concept evidence and highlight the cosmetic benefit of the biomimetic lamellar cream formulation.NCT03216265, NCT03180645.Deux études ont été conçues pour évaluer pour la première fois chez l’être humain l’éventuel bénéfice cosmétique d'une crème hydratante biomimétique contenant de la niacinamide. MÉTHODES: Dans les deux études, des femmes en bonne santé ont été randomisées pour utiliser deux traitements, un pour le côté gauche du corps et un pour le côté droit, choisis entre trois options : la crème testée, un contrôle positif ou aucun traitement (utilisation d'un nettoyant standard uniquement). Les traitements ont été appliqués deux fois par jour pendant 4 semaines sur le visage et les avant-bras (Étude 1) ou seulement sur le visage (Étude 2). Des évaluations instrumentales et cliniques de la peau ont été effectuées par des techniciens qualifiés. L’étude 1 impliquait un stripping et une période de 5 jours sans traitement (« régression ») à la fin des 4 semaines. Il a été demandé à des évaluateurs profanes indépendants d’évaluer la texture de la peau des participantes dans l’Étude 2 à partir de photographies à haute résolution. RÉSULTATS: Dans l’Étude 1 (n = 66), la crème testée a diminué de manière significative les valeurs de la perte en eau transépidermique (transepidermal water loss, TEWL) au niveau de l'avant-bras, et au niveau de la joue, par rapport à la valeur de base, et par rapport au groupe sans aucun traitement, et a augmenté les valeurs des paramètres cutanés mesurés avec un cornéomètre. Les améliorations ont été partiellement conservées pendant une période ultérieure de 5 jours sans aucun traitement. Des augmentations des valeurs TEWL sur la peau exposée à un décollement d'un ruban adhésif étaient significativement plus faibles après 4 semaines d'utilisation de la crème testée par rapport à l'absence de traitement. Dans l’Étude 2 (n = 72 participantes avec des signes visibles de vieillissement), il y avait une tendance favorable au niveau de la variation par rapport à la valeur de base du paramètre relatif à la rugosité de la peau, Ra, pour la crème testée par rapport à l'absence de traitement. Il y a eu des améliorations statistiquement significatives du score de Fitzpatrick pour les rides par rapport à l'absence de traitement, des diminutions des valeurs TEWL et une augmentation des valeurs des paramètres mesurés avec un cornéomètre et des valeurs des paramètres mesurés avec un cutomètre (paramètre élasticité R5). L’évaluation des images à haute résolution n'a pas permis de détecter les améliorations de la texture de la peau (définie par les pores, la finesse et les irrégularités) pour la crème testée par rapport à l'absence de traitement. Aucun événement indésirable grave ou sévère lié au traitement n'a été rapporté.Une application deux fois par jour de la crème testée pendant 4 semaines a eu des effets bénéfiques sur la fonction barrière de la peau, l'hydratation, l'aspect des rides et l’élasticité par rapport à l'absence de traitement. Ces études fournissent des éléments de preuve de concept et soulignent les bienfaits cosmétiques de la formule lamellaire biomimétique de la crème. Numéro d'enregistrement de l’étude : NCT03216265, NCT03180645.

Summary Background Maintaining a youthful appearance is a priority for many people. Global eye rejuvenation is sought more frequently and at a younger age than other treatments. Major concerns around the eye area are periorbital hyperpigmentation, puffiness, and lines and wrinkles. Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs) are complex carbohydrates that modulate skin health, repair and renew skin's appearance. Heparan sulfate (HS) is the most biologically active GAG, although it is too large and polar to penetrate the skin. Low Molecular Weight Heparan Sulfate (LMW‐HS) is a smaller version of HS designed for skin penetration while preserving its activity. In this study, we investigated the effects of a topical eye cream containing LMW‐HS and a blend of naturally derived extracts to address global periorbital rejuvenation. Method A single‐center, open‐label study including female and male subjects (n = 15) was conducted to evaluate the efficacy and tolerability of an eye cream containing LMW‐HS and a blend of naturally derived extracts applied twice daily for 12 weeks. Results Improvements in the appearance of periorbital hyperpigmentation and fine and coarse wrinkles were observed as early as week 2 with continuous improvement up to 12 weeks. Decrease in puffiness (73%) and dark circles (93%) were reported by subjects. The test product was highly rated by subjects on performance and attributes and was well tolerated by all the subjects in this study. Conclusion Results demonstrated that an eye cream containing LMW‐HS and a blend of naturally derived extracts achieved global skin rejuvenation by improving appearance of periorbital hyperpigmentation, puffiness, and fine and coarse wrinkles.

Background: Extrinsic skin aging or photoaging was previously thought to be almost exclusively due to solar ultraviolet (UV) radiation. However, recent literature has described other contributing factors and clarification is thus required as to what extent and what type of daily photoprotection is needed to mitigate extrinsic skin aging. Methods: We reviewed the existing scientific evidence on daily photoprotection, and specific requirements at the product level, to prevent extrinsic skin aging. We critically reviewed the existing evidence on potential ecological and toxicological risks which might be associated with daily photoprotection. Results: Evidence shows that broad protection against the entire solar range of UVB, UVA, UVA1, visible light, and short infrared (IRA) is required to prevent extrinsic aging. Other exposome factors, such as air pollution and smoking, also contribute to skin aging. Daily broad-spectrum sunscreen photoprotection should thus contain antioxidant ingredients for additional benefits against UV, IRA, and pollution-induced oxidative stress as well as anti-aging active ingredients to provide clinical benefits against skin aging signs, such as wrinkles and dark spots. Broad-spectrum sunscreen containing pigments, such as iron oxide, may be required for melasma prevention. There is no conclusive clinical evidence that daily sunscreen use is unsafe or that it compromises vitamin D synthesis. Conclusion: Daily use of broad-spectrum sunscreen containing antioxidant and anti-aging active ingredients can effectively reduce extrinsic aging.

Background: Almonds have long been studied as a rich source of fatty acids, phytochemical polyphenols and antioxidants such as vitamin E. A recent study compared almond supplementations to a calorie-matched intervention for 16 weeks, yielding statistically significant improvement in wrinkle severity in postmenopausal women with Fitzpatrick skin types I and II that received almonds. This study furthers that assessment with a larger population and duration of 24 weeks to assess the influence of almond consumption on wrinkle severity, skin pigmentation and other skin biophysical profiles. Objective: To investigate the effects of almond consumption on photoaging such as wrinkles and pigment intensity as well as facial biophysical parameters such as sebum production, skin hydration and water loss. Design and interventions: A prospective, randomized controlled study assessed postmenopausal women with Fitzpatrick skin types I or II who consumed 20% of their daily energy consumption in either almonds or a calorie-matched snack for 24 weeks. A facial photograph and image analysis system was used to obtain standardized high-resolution photographs and information on wrinkle width and severity at 0, 8, 16 and 24 weeks. Measurements of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin pigmentation, skin hydration and sebum production were also completed at each visit. Results: The average wrinkle severity was significantly decreased in the almond intervention group at week 16 and week 24 compared to baseline by 15% and 16%, respectively. Facial pigment intensity was decreased 20% in the almond group at week 16 and this was maintained by week 24. There were no significant differences in skin hydration or TEWL in the almond group compared to the control, although sebum excretion was increased in the control group. Conclusion: The daily consumption of almonds may improve several aspects of photoaging such as facial wrinkles and pigment intensity in postmenopausal women. In conclusion, the daily consumption of almonds may contribute to the improvement of facial wrinkles and reduction of skin pigmentation among postmenopausal women with Fitzpatrick skin types I and II.

Mangos are rich in &beta, carotene and other carotenoids, along with several phenolic acids that may provide oxidant defense and photoprotection to the skin. The objectives of this study are to investigate the effects of Ataulfo mango intake on the development of facial wrinkles and erythema. A randomized two-group parallel-arm study was conducted to assess 16 weeks of either 85 g or 250 g of mango intake in healthy postmenopausal women with Fitzpatrick skin type II or III. Facial photographs were captured at weeks 0, 8, and 16, and wrinkles at the lateral canthi and erythema at the cheeks were quantified. Skin carotenoid values were measured with reflection spectroscopy. Deep wrinkle severity decreased significantly in the 85 g group after 8 (p = 0.007) and 16 (p = 0.03) weeks compared to baseline measures. In contrast, those in the 250 g group showed an increase after 16 weeks in average wrinkle severity (p = 0.049), average wrinkle length (p = 0.007), fine wrinkle severity (p = 0.02), and emerging wrinkle severity (p = 0.02). Erythema in the cheeks increased with 85 g of mango intake (p = 0.04). The intake of 85 g of mangos reduced wrinkles in fair-skinned postmenopausal women, while an intake of 250 g showed the opposite effect. Further studies feeding 85 g of mangos are warranted.

Made available in DSpace on 2021-06-25T10:16:57Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2020-01-01 Background: The use of the injectable products for soft tissue augmentation and treatment of skin aging is an uncomfortable, invasive and related to several complications, and chronic reactions, mainly after long-term application. Efforts to develop new topically active anti-aging products with fewer adverse effects are a huge challenge that should be faced. Aims: We evaluated the anti-aging effects of a phytocosmetic preparation containing Thymus vulgaris associated with lecithin (ThymLec) on the facial wrinkles, expression lines, and face oval remodeling using a double-blind placebo-controlled clinical trial and in vitro cell culture assays. Methods: A clinical trial was conducted to evaluate the effects of ThymLec 2% on the area, length, and depth of the perioral and crow's feet wrinkles, nasolabial and smile lines, as well as face oval remodeling in female volunteers using a sophisticated Bio3D Structured-light Scanner. In the in vitro studies using 3T3-L1 mouse embryonic fibroblasts, adiponectin was measured by immunoenzymatic assay, adipogenesis by the AdipoRed reagent method, and the PPAR-γ expression by RT-PCR analysis. Results: Topical treatment with ThymLec 2% reduced facial wrinkles and expression lines promoting a face oval remodeling. In the in vitro studies, ThymLec upregulated the PPAR-γ expression increasing adiponectin production and stimulating the adipogenesis process. Conclusions: The phytocosmetic preparation containing Thymus vulgaris and lecithin is an innovative and safe topical anti-aging product promoting fat tissue augmentation by adipogenesis stimulation via the upregulation of PPAR-γ expression and adiponectin production. Research and Development Department Chemyunion Química Ltda Laboratory of Phytomedicines Pharmacology and Biotechnology (PhytoPharmaTech) Department of Biophysics and Pharmacology Institute of Biosciences São Paulo State University (Unesp) Laboratory of Phytomedicines Pharmacology and Biotechnology (PhytoPharmaTech) Department of Biophysics and Pharmacology Institute of Biosciences São Paulo State University (Unesp)

Background Collagen is the primary component in human skin. With age, there is loss of skin elasticity and collagen, resulting in wrinkle formation and reduction in skin appearance. Aims The objective of this randomized, triple-blind, placebo-controlled study was to evaluate the safety and efficacy of a hydrolyzed marine collagen (Vinh Wellness Collagen, VWC) on aspects of skin health and quality in women between 45 and 60 years of age. Patients/methods Assessments of skin wrinkles, elasticity, and self-reported appearance were conducted using the VISIA skin analysis system, Cutometer® , and Skin Quality Visual Analogue Scale. Outcomes were assessed at weeks 0 (baseline), 6, and 12. Results After 12 weeks, participants supplemented with VWC had a significant 35% reduction in wrinkle score (P = .035) from baseline. Participants in the VWC group showed a 24% greater reduction in wrinkles on the right side of the face than those on placebo. A planned subgroup analysis based on age showed women 45-54 years had a significant 20% and 10% improvement in cheek skin elasticity from baseline to week 6 (P = .016) and 12 (P = .022), respectively. At week 12, participants in the VWC group reported greater percentage improvements in overall skin score (9%) and wrinkle (15%), elasticity (23%), hydration (14%), radiance (22%), and firmness (25%) scores vs placebo. Conclusion Supplementation with VWC was found to be safe and well-tolerated. The results of this study support the use of fish-derived hydrolyzed collagen for the improvement of skin health in an aging population.

Fractional lasers have become widespread in dermatology owing to their efficacy and safety. Comparative analysis of histological features after laser rejuvenation using a 1064-nm fractionated handpiece picosecond laser with different energy fluence levels (1.1 or 2.1 J/cm2). An open-label, study of 28 women aged 36 to 60 years with signs of age-related photodamage and skin changes of the face and neck was conducted using a fractional picosecond 1064 nm laser in low vs high fluence. The clinical assessment at 3 weeks showed more pronounced effect on facial skin rejuvenation with the higher fluence of 2.1 J/cm2 compared to 1.1 J/cm2. The effect and safety of laser rejuvenation using a picosecond laser has been shown with more pronounced histological effects at higher fluences.

Background Facial wrinkles, pores, and uneven skin tone are major beauty concerns. There is differential manifestation of aging signs in different ethnic groups. In this regard, studies on Black Africans from the African continent are scarce. Objective To investigate facial wrinkles, pores, and skin tone in Black African women from Mauritius Island and elucidate the differences to Caucasian women from France. Methods Facial images were taken using the imaging system ColorFace® . Wrinkles and pores were measured by their length, depth, surface, volume, and number; for skin tone, we measured L*a*b* and calculated ITA, IWANewtone , and color homogeneity. Results We found good correlations of wrinkle and pore scores with expert ranking done on ColorFace® images for Caucasians (Spearman's rho = 0.78 and 0.72) and Black Africans (Spearman's rho = 0.86 and 0.65). Caucasians showed more advanced facial signs of aging than Black Africans. Exceptions were vertical lines on upper lip and the depth of pores which were greatest for the Black African subjects. Black Africans had higher heterogeneity scores indicative for uneven skin tone. Luminance (L*) was significantly higher in Caucasians but a* and b* values were significantly higher in the Black African subjects. ITA and IWANewtone were significantly higher for Caucasians. Conclusions The high correlation between expert ranking and wrinkle and pore measurements prove ColorFace® a valid imaging system to study skin aging. Our results show that Africans from the African continent show delayed signs of aging compared to Caucasians. Some exceptions suggest that ethnic differences in facial aging are a complex phenomenon.

Background: Aging is an inevitable biological change, but understanding the process of aging of face is important to customize the treatment options for facial rejuvenation. Evidence-based estimation of global facial aging is necessary for the validation of various treatment modalities. Aims: Classification and implementation of a scoring system for aging face based upon volume loss and surface changes as evident by drooping of different areas of the face and appearance of fine and deep wrinkles, respectively, and to apply this drooping–wrinkles classification on 54 participants to evaluate and understand the validity of scoring. Methods: An observational study was conducted, and scores were calculated based on 13 parameters (7 areas of drooping and 6 areas of wrinkles on the face) at Aura Skin Institute, Chandigarh, India. Accordingly, age was divided in different age groups followed by clinical estimation of facial age and calculation of scores. Results: According to our classification and scoring system, 61% (33 out of 54) of the participants were correlated with their chronological age group. Out of the remaining 21 (39%) participants who were aging faster, 13 (24%) were in the age group of 25–35 years. Approximately one-fourth of the patients in the age groups 36–45 and 46–55 years were aging faster. Only 1 patient had scores showing younger age in comparison to chronological age. Overall, there was a good correlation between the calculated score and the chronological age of patients. Moreover, a gradual increase in scores was noticed with increasing age groups. Conclusions: This is a new clinical classification and scoring system for facial age which is much easier to apply in daily clinical practice for easy calculation of baseline scores and customizing their antiaging treatment options. Moreover, it will also make it easier to compare the efficacy of treatment in their future follow-ups. The limitation of this study is that it has been proposed for all skin types but validation has been done only for Indian participants.

An internet search was made looking for articles about chemical and physical modalities that are known to induce collagen and elastin formation. Textbooks, independent articles, journals and books on pathology, biochemistry, aesthetic medicine and cosmetic and plastic surgery were used as references. Here, we take a look at various studies, in vitro and in vivo, that lend credence to the products and procedures used in clinical practice to induce neocollagenesis and neoelastinogenesis.

Made available in DSpace on 2018-11-26T17:55:13Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0 Previous issue date: 2018-05-01 Galderma Background: Adapalene has been previously evaluated as a treatment for actinic keratosis (AK) and solar lentigines and shown to improve signs of photoaging. Objectives: To evaluate whether adapalene 0.3% gel is non-inferior to tretinoin 0.05% cream as treatment for photoaged skin. Materials & Methods: An investigator-blinded, parallel-group comparison study was conducted in Brazil. Subjects were randomised in a 1:1 ratio to receive, once daily, adapalene 0.3% gel or tretinoin 0.05% cream. Subjects were evaluated at Weeks 1, 4, 8, 12, 16, 20 and 24, based on clinical signs of cutaneous photoaging, histopathological and digital morphometric findings, as well as safety and tolerability. Results: A comparison of clinical efficacy showed that both treatments did not differ significantly regarding clinical evaluation of the following criteria: global cutaneous photoaging, periorbital wrinkles, ephelides/melanosis, forehead wrinkles, and AK. Conclusion: Adapalene 0.3% gel showed non-inferior efficacy to tretinoin 0.05% cream as treatment for photoaged skin, with a similar safety profile. Adapalene 0.3% gel may therefore be considered a safe and effective option for the treatment of mild or moderate photoaging. Univ Fed Sao Paulo, Dept Dermatol, Sao Paulo, SP, Brazil Univ Fed Sao Paulo, Translat Med Postgrad Program, Sao Paulo, Brazil Dona Libania Dermatol Ctr, Dept Hlth, Fortaleza, Ceara, Brazil Univ Fed Parana, Curitiba, Parana, Brazil Med Sci Coll, Dept Dermatol, Belo Horizonte, MG, Brazil Med Residency Santa Casa, Santa Casa, MG, Brazil Univ Estadual Paulista, FMB, Dept Dermatol, Sao Paulo, Brazil Univ Estadual Paulista, FMB, Dept Dermatol, Sao Paulo, Brazil

It remains important to investigate skin ageing signs across different skin types for targeted solutions. Limited data is available on Indian skin changes throughout ageing, hence three fields were investigated: skin features during the ageing process, their relationship with perceived age and self-declared skin ageing concerns. Photographs, skin topography, colour and biophysical measurements of 202 Indian female volunteers, 30–65 years old, were collected. Another panel of 693 naïve graders, 20–65 years old, estimated the age of photographs previously collected. Associations between 28 skin features and real/perceived age were assessed using linear correlation coefficients. Skin feature scores of an older perceived group were compared versus the scores of a younger perceived group, to establish skin features that lead to an older appearance. Additionally, the naïve graders were asked to rank 12 skin ageing concerns by importance. Twenty-four features correlated with real and perceived age. The ages of the volunteers were overestimated, especially those in their 30s. Skin features related to skin brightness suggested an older look for volunteers in their 30s. From the 40s onwards, wrinkles around the eye area, glabellar and corner of the mouth were also drivers for looking older. In the 50s, features such as upper lip wrinkles, hydration and roughness on the crow’s feet were worse in the older perceived group, while nasolabial folds suggested an older appearance in the 60s. By having identified skin features that worsen with age and contribute to an older perceived face, this research will facilitate the creation of tailored products and communication for Indian women to look after their skin concerns throughout the ageing process.

Anti-pollution skin care and cosmetic products are witnessing a significant growth in the last couple of years due to worsening air quality across the world, and increasing awareness and concern regarding the adverse impact of various environmental pollutants on skin. The various pollutants, like particulate matter, oxides of nitrogen and sulphur, ozone, and polyaromatic hydrocarbons damage skin by different mechanism resulting in skin dryness, loss of firmness, dark spots, uneven skin tone, fine lines and wrinkles, aggravation of acne, and inflammation. The task of developing globally harmonized products is very challenging due differences in skin types according to ethnicity, variation in seasonal weather pattern, differences in benefit expectations, and variances in personal care and cosmetics usage habits of consumers in different regions of the world. However, an increasing understanding about the mechanism by which various pollutants damage the skin manifesting into various extrinsic signs of skin damage and development of various actives that counter the impact of different environmental aggressors has helped formulators to develop different products and to establish efficacy by in vitro and in vivo tests. The article summarizes approaches for formulation development, and a list of few actives classified based in their mechanism action is given. A representative list of products based on their mechanism of action is also given and few potential opportunities for the future are suggested.

Introduction The skin undergoes morphological and physiological changes with the advancing age of an individual. These changes may be caused by intrinsic and extrinsic factors that contribute to cellular ageing and consequent skin ageing. The term photoageing is used to characterise the ageing of the skin caused by solar radiation. Clinically, the skin becomes more flaccid, thicker and hyperpigmented, while there is an early appearance of wrinkles and other skin changes, such as skin cancer. Nowadays, there are numerous treatments for ageing skin, and one of them is with the use of phototherapy, which uses light-emitting diodes (LEDs). The objective of this study will be to evaluate the percentages of reduction in the volume of periocular wrinkles when treated with red and amber LEDs. Methods and analysis All of the participants will receive photobiomodulation to treat their periocular wrinkles. They will be using red and amber LEDs, with one colour being used on each hemiface. The facial side to be treated with each colour will be randomised. After an interval of 180 days, the participants will receive a cross-treatment. The primary variable of the study is the volume of periocular wrinkles (crow’s feet), which will be measured by a VisioFace equipment. The secondary variables are elasticity (measured by Cutometer) and hydration (measured by Corneometer). Quality of life and self-assessment of the participants will be measured using the adapted Melasma Quality of Life scale - Brazilian Portuguese adaption (MelasQoL-BP) and Skindex-29 questionnaires. All of the variables will be measured before and after a group of 10 sessions. Ethics and dissemination This protocol was approved by the Research Ethics Committee of the Nove de Julho University (acceptance number: 2.550.732). This trial has been registered in the Registro Brasileiro de Ensaios Clinicos (Brazilian Clinical Trials Registry) (REBEC number: RBR-6YFCBM). This study is not recruiting yet. Trial registration number RBR6YFCBM; Pre-results.

Purpose To evaluate the safety and efficacy of fractional photothermolysis (FP) in the treatment of facial wrinkles in Asians. Methods A total of 27 Korean patients (Fitzpatrick type III or IV) received 2-3 FP treatment sessions (Sellas; Dinona Inc., Seoul, Korea) spaced two weeks apart. Treatments were performed at settings of 7 to 9 mJ/microthermal treatment zone (MTZ) and a density of 1000 MTZ/cm2. Standardized digital photographs were obtained before each treatment and three months after the final treatment. The evaluations of clinical photographs were performed by three physicians blinded to the study subjects using a five-point grading scale. In addition, the patients' perceived degree of improvement was assessed three months after the final treatment using a five-point grading scale. Side effects were monitored at each follow-up visit. Results The physicians' assessed degrees of improvement were excellent in three patients (12%), significant in ten (40%), and moderate in seven (28%). The patients' self-assessed degrees of improvement were excellent in five patients (20%), significant in 11 (44%), and moderate in six (24%). Adverse events were limited to transient pain, erythema and edema, except in one case of transient postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. Conclusions FP is an effective treatment modality for reducing facial wrinkles with minimal side effects in Asian patients.

Peptides of synthesis are a very new strategy in cosmetic science and technology for at least two reasons: (1) they are small molecules, easily penetrable in the skin and (2) they are able to induce a very specific action, because all skin cells (keratinocytes, fibroblasts, nervous cells) have membrane receptors for peptides. This group of cosmeceutics includes the botox-like peptides, represented by acetyl hexapeptide 3 (Argireline) and pentapeptid-3 (Leuphasyl). The latter is less known and has been less studied. This substance inhibits the neuromuscular synapses in the mimic muscles, acting as enkephalins. It links the enkephalin receptor to nervous cells, thereby modulating the release of acetylcholine in synaptic space. This cellular activity will be translated in vivo in a relaxation of the muscle and a reduction of expression wrinkles. The aim of our study is to evaluate the optimal concentration of Leuphasyl for skin application at the mimic muscle level, the efficiency and the safety of this peptide. We formulated three emulsions of different concentrations (0.5%, 1%, 2%) which were applied to the skin, at the level of mimic muscles (1) at the eyebrows zone (above the corrugator supercilii muscle) and (2) at the periorbital zone (above the orbicularis oculi muscle). We evaluated the regression of the wrinkles between the eyebrows using an imagistic method: pro-derm Analyser. The study is of interest to discussions concerning how to apply these kinds of cosmetic products at the mimic muscle skin level and not at the level of the wrinkles.