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Gentle cleansing of the skin without further compromising its barrier function and moisture content and being simultaneously devoid of adverse effects on the skin microbiome are important features of body cleansers for atopic-prone skin sufferers. For this population, a new dexpanthenol-containing liquid cleanser (DCLC) was developed.Two prospective 4-week studies have been conducted. Study 1 investigated the effect of once-daily DCLC on stratum corneum (SC) hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin pH, and skin microbiome (all on the volar forearm) in adult subjects with dry skin (N = 44). Study 2 explored the cutaneous tolerability of DCLC and its effect on the microbiome biodiversity of the volar forearm skin in infants/children with atopic-prone skin (N = 33, aged 6 months to 6 years). In the latter study, DCLC was applied 2-3 days/week in combination with an emollient applied at least twice daily.In Study 1, on Day 29, the mean change in skin surface capacitance from baseline was significantly greater in the forearm test area treated with DCLC than in the contralateral test area (control) treated with water only (5.16 vs. 3.65 a.u.; p = 0.011), suggesting long-term SC hydration. DCLC use was not associated with changes in TEWL, skin pH, or microbiome biodiversity if compared to control. In Study 2, the 4-week use of DCLC in combination with an emollient was well tolerated according to pediatrician skin assessment, and no flare-ups were recorded. The microbiome biodiversity did not shift during the study.These findings support the use of DCLC in subjects with atopic-prone skin.

A new dexpanthenol-containing hand cream (ND-HC) was developed for people with dry, sensitive, and/or environmentally stressed hands. To explore the performance and acceptability of ND-HC, we conducted a randomized, intraindividual comparison study in 40 healthy adult subjects with sensitive and very dry skin on the hands. Instrumental measurements determined the effects on stratum corneum (SC) hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) after single and/or 4 weeks’ use of ND-HC. Single and continued at least four times daily applications of ND-HC to very dry skin of the hand for 4 weeks triggered significant increases in SC hydration. On day 29, the mean change in skin capacitance from baseline was significantly greater when ND-HC was applied to the test area compared with the untreated area on the contralateral hand (12.41 vs. 4.46 a.u.; p < 0.001). Upon use of ND-HC over 4 weeks, mean TEWL decreased significantly (bilateral difference: −1.8 vs. 1.0 g/m2/h; p = 0.003), indicating an improvement in SC barrier function. A reduction in dry hand symptoms was observed over the study course. ND-HC was well tolerated and achieved a high level of acceptance and satisfaction. Our findings suggest that ND-HC complies with the required features of a state-of-the-art hand cream.

As new biophysical methods become available to the skin researcher, it is important to understand the type of information that they are capable of measuring, and how it relates to consumer perception of topical moisturizing products. This work was aimed at understanding how two-dimensional (2D) skin hydration mapping can be used to describe skin properties beyond the traditional ‘single number’ approach to skin hydration. Two-dimensional skin hydration measurement data were collected at baseline and after 1 week of in vivo usage of a topical moisturizing product. In addition, subject feedback regarding their skin condition obtained during the study was collected and assessed. Dividing the 2D hydration measurement device images into zones of different electrical permittivity scores enabled analysis of different aspects of the skin compared with traditional electrical skin hydration measurements. Improvement in skin flexibility as a result of use of the topical test product was demonstrated. Complete description of the skin’s hydration state through the creation of hydration histograms to describe its electrical characteristics was performed. Subject feedback data showed improvements in aspects of skin assessed using 2D hydration measurement.

Two novel body/face wash gels enriched with emollient ingredients (including dexpanthenol) were developed for the daily care of dry skin. Two similarly designed 2-week studies (N = 42 each) were conducted to assess the biophysical and cosmetic performance of each of the new wash gels in healthy adults with dry skin. Instrumental measurements quantified the effects of the wash gels on stratum corneum (SC) hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) (with and without a previous sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) challenge) after single and repeated usage. Following single and repeated applications of the face wash gel to facial skin, as well as to dry SLS-undamaged and SLS-damaged skin of the forearm, skin hydration significantly increased. Similarly, after single and repeated usage of the body wash gel to dry SLS-undamaged and SLS-damaged skin of the forearm, skin moisturization increased significantly from baseline, comparisons with control areas provided inconsistent results for SLS-undamaged skin. No effects on TEWL were observed for either product. Both wash gels were well tolerated and the cosmetic performances were appreciated by the subjects. The study results suggest that daily use of the new wash gels was associated with significant skin-moisturizing effects without adversely affecting skin barrier function and repair.

As new biophysical methods become available to the skin researcher it is important to understand the type of information that they are capable of measuring, and how it relates to consumer perception of topical moisturizing products. The aim of the work presented here was to understand what dry skin imaging can reveal about the skin and subject feedback from the use of a topical moisturizing product and how it relates to the consumer usage experience of a topical product. Images from a dry skin camera—the Visioscan® VC 20plus—during 3 weeks in vivo usage of a topical moisturizing product were analyzed. Subject feedback regarding their skin condition was also collected. Strong statistical improvements (p < 0.05) were observed for a wide range of skin parameters derived from the Visioscan® VC 20plus. Skin scaliness and smoothness and parameters associated with skin health and appearance (surface, energy, contrast, homogeneity) improved as a result of topical product usage. Subjects reported their skin to feel less dry, to be smoother, and more supple and to look and feel healthier after product usage. The length of time until they felt the need to re-apply the product increased during the study.

Three novel face creams containing dexpanthenol with different lipid contents were developed for dry skin sufferers: a day face cream (DFC), a day face cream with sun protection (DFC-SPF), and a night face cream (NFC). Three identically designed studies (N = 42–44 each) were conducted with healthy adults of three ethnicities (African, Asian, Caucasian) with dry/sensitive skin. Effects on stratum corneum (SC) hydration, SC lipid content, and skin elasticity were quantified by established noninvasive methods during the 4-week studies. After single and repeated once-daily applications of the face creams, facial hydration significantly increased from baseline. On day 28, the mean increments in skin hydration amounted to 27%, 26%, and 27% (p &lt, 0.0001 each) for DFC, DFC-SPF, and NFC, respectively. Favorable effects of DFC, DFC-SPF, and NFC on facial moisturization were observed in all three ethnic groups. The enhancements in SC hydration were not paralleled by improvements in skin elasticity parameters but lipid analyses showed significant increases in SC cholesterol, SC free fatty acid, and/or SC ceramide levels. All three face creams were well tolerated and achieved a high product satisfaction and acceptability by study participants. Our findings support the once-daily use of the face creams in adults of different ethnicities with dry and sensitive skin.

Moisturizers are commonly prescribed after laser and chemical peel aesthetic procedures, but the evidence regarding their efficacy and safety of such use is scarce. We conducted four single-blind, three-week, controlled studies to evaluate the efficacy and safety of topical Dexpanthenol-containing products (Bepantol® spray and Bepantol® cream) using petroleum jelly as a positive control. Skin recovery was assessed after four aesthetic procedures: (1) non-ablative facial laser resurfacing, (2) laser depilation on the external genital and inguinal regions, (3) chemical peel on the external genital and inguinal regions, and (4) ablative facial laser resurfacing. Efficacy was assessed through transepidermal water loss (TEWL) combined with clinical assessment of the skin by the investigators and the participants. In studies (1) and (4), the erythema intensity was evaluated by measuring dermal temperature with a thermal imaging camera. Safety was assessed through adverse event reporting and acceptability through a questionnaire. Dexpanthenol-containing products significantly decreased TEWL and dermal temperature, therefore maintaining skin integrity, promoting its recovery, and reducing erythema. No statistical differences with the positive control were observed. In addition, Dexpanthenol-containing products were well appreciated by the participants from a sensory perspective. These findings suggest that these Dexpanthenol-containing products are adequate for post-procedural care in aesthetic dermatology.

Three studies were conducted with three new dexpanthenol-containing emollients containing increasing lipid contents (Emollients 1–3) to assess their performances in healthy adults with dry skin. All three studies (N = 42 each) followed virtually the same design. A single skin application of the study product was performed followed by once-daily usage. Skin hydration, transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin biomechanical properties, and lipid content of the stratum corneum (SC) were regularly assessed over the 28-day study period, a subset (N = 22) underwent a sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) challenge prior to product application. All three emollients were well tolerated and showed good performances with only minor differences in instrumental measurements. After single and prolonged once-daily applications of Emollients 1–3 to dry skin and dry SLS-damaged skin, skin hydration significantly increased from baseline (BL) (by 38.1–72.4% in unchallenged skin, p &lt, 0.001 for all three). This was paralleled by significant increases in skin elasticity parameters. Usage of Emollients 1 and 3 caused increases from BL in SC cholesterol (by 9.8–12.5%, p &lt, 0.05 for both) and SC free fatty acid levels (by 3.7–26.3%, p &lt, 0.05 for both) at the end of the study. No sustained effects on TEWL were recorded. Our findings support the once-daily use of all three emollients in adults with dry skin.

Approximately 70 years ago, the first topical dexpanthenol-containing formulation (Bepanthen™ Ointment) has been developed. Nowadays, various topical dexpanthenol preparations exist, tailored according to individual requirements. Topical dexpanthenol has emerged as frequently used formulation in the field of dermatology and skin care. Various studies confirmed dexpanthenol's moisturizing and skin barrier enhancing potential. It prevents skin irritation, stimulates skin regeneration and promotes wound healing. Two main directions in the use of topical dexpanthenol-containing formulations have therefore been pursued: as skin moisturizer/skin barrier restorer and as facilitator of wound healing. This 70th anniversary paper reviews studies with topical dexpanthenol in skin conditions where it is most frequently used. Although discovered decades ago, the exact mechanisms of action of dexpanthenol have not been fully elucidated yet. With the adoption of new technologies, new light has been shed on dexpanthenol's mode of action at the molecular level. It appears that dexpanthenol increases the mobility of stratum corneum molecular components which are important for barrier function and modulates the expression of genes important for wound healing. This review will update readers on recent advances in this field.