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The cosmetic industry is now changing or rather having an ecological transition in which formulations such as creams, lotions, and powders for make-up, skin and hair care must not contain microplastics, now a taboo word in this field. Nowadays, many companies are intensifying their research and development (R&D) work to align with recent and future legislation that provides for their elimination to safeguard the ecosystem. The production of new eco-sustainable materials is currently a hot topic which finds its place in a market worth above 350 billion dollars which will reach more than 700 billion dollars in a very short time. This review offers an overview of the main advantages and adverse issues relating to the use of microplastics in cosmetics and of their impact, providing an insight into the properties of the polymeric materials that are currently exploited to improve the sensorial characteristics of cosmetic products. In addition, the various regulatory restrictions in the different geographical areas of the world are also described, which is matter for reflection on future direction. Finally, a prospective vision of possible solutions to replace microplastics with sustainable alternatives complete the picture of the next generation personal care products to support decision-making in the cosmetic marketplace., (© 2024 The Authors. ChemSusChem published by Wiley-VCH GmbH.)

Objective: Prototype cosmetic formulations containing short-chain acids and alcohols intended to be applied in the proximity of the eyes are sometimes evaluated for ocular irritation potential using the validated Bovine Corneal Opacity and Permeability Assay (OECD TG 437). We evaluated the eye irritation potential of nine experimental cosmetic formulations designed and prepared by Avon Global Reserach and Development to differ only in the concentrations of Ethanol, Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid., Methods: We analysed the data generated using the BCOP assay. The opacity and permeability values obtained following the exposure of bovine corneas to experimental cosmetic formulations were combined into a single In Vitro Irritancy Score used to rank eye irritation potential. Histopathological examination of treated corneas was used to provide additional information about the depth and degree of the injury and to support the prediction of eye irritation potential of each experimental cosmetic formulation., Results: The In Vitro Irritancy Scores and histopathological analysis showed that experimental formulations containing only Ethanol, Glycolic Acid, or Salicylic Acid alone had, at most, a mild ocular irritation potential. The experimental formulations containing both Ethanol and Glycolic Acid had a mild ocular irritation potential, while the experimental formulations containing both Ethanol and Salicylic Acid had a moderate ocular irritation potential. Severe ocular irritation potential was induced by an experimental formulation containing a combination of Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid and it was further accentuated by the addition of Ethanol to the formulation. Our data indicate a possible synergistic effect on eye irritation potential of Ethanol, Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid in at least some experimental cosmetic formulations. Further, our results provide insight on an apparent concentration-dependent ocular irritation potential effect of combinations of Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Acid and Ethanol in at least one experimental cosmetic formulation., Conclusions: The results presented herein emphasise the need to consider in vitro testing of prototype cosmetic formulations containing combinations of Ethanol, Glycolic Acid and Salicylic Acid rather than relying on any predicted additive effect on ocular irritation based solely on previously generated results of similar formulations containing Ethanol, Glycolic Acid or Salicylic Acid alone. Further work is required to understand the significance of these observations and to elucidate the mechanisms responsible for the apparent synergistic effects of Glycolic Acid, Salicylic Acid and Ethanol and eye irritation potential suggested by our results.

In the skin care field, bacterial nanocellulose (BNC), a versatile polysaccharide produced by non-pathogenic acetic acid bacteria, has received increased attention as a promising candidate to replace synthetic polymers (e.g., nylon, polyethylene, polyacrylamides) commonly used in cosmetics. The applicability of BNC in cosmetics has been mainly investigated as a carrier of active ingredients or as a structuring agent of cosmetic formulations. However, with the sustainability issues that are underway in the highly innovative cosmetic industry and with the growth prospects for the market of bio-based products, a much more prominent role is envisioned for BNC in this field. Thus, this review provides a comprehensive overview of the most recent (last 5 years) and relevant developments and challenges in the research of BNC applied to cosmetic, aiming at inspiring future research to go beyond in the applicability of this exceptional biotechnological material in such a promising area.

The cosmetic industry is one of the fastest growing industrial sectors that is constantly evolving by absorbing new technologies and incorporating innovative yet sustainable products. Cosmetic products are comprised of diverse formulations such as skin care, color cosmetics, hair care, makeup, body care products. Traditionally, cosmetic emulsions are stabilized using surfactants or polymers. Due to its adverse effects on environment, cytotoxicity effects, numerous health hazards, there is a strong drive to shift towards sustainable and surfactant free emulsions. With increasing consumer demand for a safer and more biodegradable products, formulating "surfactant- free" emulsions by replacing conventional stabilizers with particles has gained popularity. In this review, various important aspects and applications of particle stabilized emulsions in cosmetic formulations will be discussed. Importantly, novel ideas on surface modification of particles and use of Janus particles in cosmetic formulations will be discussed., Competing Interests: Declaration of Competing Interest The authors declare that they have no known competing financial interests or personal relationships that could have appeared to influence the work reported in this paper., (Copyright © 2020 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

Objective: Considering that many cosmetic products contain UV filters in their composition and that few studies have evaluated the role of UV filters in the physical properties and clinical efficacy of these products, the aim of this study was to assess the influence of UV filters on the properties and immediate effects of a cosmetic formulation., Methods: Four cosmetic formulations, vehicle (V), vehicle containing UV filters (F), vehicle containing cassava polysaccharides and alfalfa (A) oligosaccharides and vehicle containing UV filters plus cassava polysaccharides and alfalfa oligosaccharides (multifunctional formulation, M) were developed. The texture profile of the formulations was analysed with a TA.XT plus Texturometer ® . Twenty female volunteers aged 39-45 years were then selected for the assessment of immediate clinical efficacy of the formulations under study and of transepidermal water loss (TEWL), stratum corneum water content and microrelief of the skin obtained with their use., Results: The presence of UV filters resulted in an improvement of the physical properties of the multifunctional cosmetic formulation (M) and of skin microrelief. However, the presence of UV filters also caused a significant decrease in hydration., Conclusion: The presence of sunscreens had a negative influence on immediate skin hydration and TEWL. On the other hand, it positively influenced parameters related to the physical properties of the multifunctional formulation and skin microrelief. Thus, we conclude that the influence of UV filters on the development of cosmetic formulations is an important factor to be considered because it can have either positive or negative effect on the efficacy of the product., (© 2017 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Société Française de Cosmétologie.)

N-Acetylglucosamine is an ingredient in pharmaceuticals, nutritional supplements and in cosmetics. N-Acetylglucosamine in cosmetics is expected to improve skin hydration, reparation, and to contribute as anti-wrinkle agent. This study reports on the validation and application of an HPLC method based on HILIC and UV detection for determining N-acetylglucosamine in cosmetics and in samples obtained after testing the skin exposed to cosmetics formulations. The chromatographic column used is a ZIC(®)-pHILIC (150 mm × 4.6 mm, 5 μm particle size) on which a mobile phase containing acetonitrile-aqueous KH2PO4 (70:30, v/v) 15 mM was applied in isocratic elution mode injecting 20 μl of sample at 0.5 ml/min constant flow-rate and 10±1°C column temperature. Under these conditions the total run time was 10 min and N-acetylglucosamine eluted baseline separated from all other compounds in the samples. Calibration in the range from 40 to 80 μg/ml allowed to assess the method linearity (R(2)>0.999) in a concentration range corresponding to about 50% to 120% of the expected levels of N-acetylglucosamine in the formulations. Precision expressed by RSD% was always better than 2% in intra-day and inter-day assays of authentic samples. Accuracy was in all cases within 95-105% of the expected concentration value in formulations containing N-acetylglucosamine. The sensitivity of the method was at the level of 10 μg/ml as limit of detection, and at 40 μg/ml as limit of quantitation. The application of the method to formulations containing solid lipid nanoparticles documents its usefulness in cosmetic quality control. The results witness that the method is also suitable for the determination of N-acetylglucosamine in samples obtained from skin test strips., (Copyright © 2014 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

Unlabelled: The study was undertaken to verify the antimicrobial activity of Lavandula angustifolia hydrosols in moisturizing body gels. The inhibition efficacy of four lavender hydrosols (obtained from fresh or dry herbs or flowers) was tested against Staphylococcus aureus ATCC 6538, Escherichia coli ATCC 1627, Candida sp. ŁOCK 0008 and Aspergillus niger ATCC 16404 in compliance with the standards of the European Pharmacopoeia Commission. Although the tested hydrosols did not express any remarkable antimicrobial action when tested via the macrodilution method, they show preservative activity in cosmetic preparations. Criterion A for fungi was fulfilled for the cosmetic formulation containing dried flower hydrosol (reduction of the inoculum by two logarithmic units within 14 days with no increase up to the 28th day) and Criterion B for bacteria E. coli and Staph. aureus (reduction of the inoculum by three logarithmic units within 14 days with no increase up to the 28th day). The fresh herb lavender hydrosol in the cosmetic formulation was regarded as the second one effectively satisfying Criterion B for bacteria, but its activity against fungi was below the acceptance value set out in the official regulations. Lavender hydrosols used as a replacement for water phase in cosmetics may contribute to maintaining microbiological stability of cosmetic formulations., Significance and Impact of the Study: The presented research proved antimicrobial activity of hydrosols obtained from fresh or dried Lavandula angustifolia herbs or flowers in moisturizing body gel. The study shows the usefulness of lavender hydrosols as a natural, ecologically friendly component of cosmetics with potential preservative activity in formulations. Hydrosols are commonly regarded as waste in the production of essential oils. The use of lavender hydrosols in the cosmetic industry as a replacement for water phase in cosmetics may not only result in expenses reduction for chemical stabilizers and preservatives but also in substantial decrease in sewage disposal., (© 2014 The Society for Applied Microbiology.)

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Background: Thermal waters have been showing different beneficial effects on the skin due to their physicochemical composition. The beneficial effect of thermal water in the treatment of some skin diseases may thus justify its use as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations. The main objective of this work was to demonstrate the potential of incorporating thermal water as an active ingredient in cosmetic formulations. (2) Methods: A descriptive literature review was carried out by the analysis of scientific articles in PubMed and Google Scholar databases. Twelve thermal spring waters were found (Avène, Blue Lagoon, Comano, Cró, Dead Sea, La Roche-Posay, Monfortinho, Saint-Gervais, Salies-de-Béarn, São Pedro do Sul, Uriage and Vichy) with potential as an active in cosmetic products, demonstrated through in vitro studies evaluating the different activities/properties and clinical trials in healthy volunteers or with skin pathologies. (3) Results: For these studies, in natura thermal water as well as incorporated in cosmetic formulations were used. In in vitro studies, most thermal waters have been shown to have activities on membrane fluidity, skin barrier repair, antiradical, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and immunomodulatory properties, proliferative activity, regulation of processes involved in ageing and moisturizing properties. In clinical trials, cosmetic thermal waters reduced skin discomfort through their soothing and exhibited moisturizing and anti-irritant properties. (4) Conclusions: The effect of thermal waters on the skin and the absence of side effects reported in different studies allows them to be used as an adjuvant or in the treatment of various skin disorders and may play an important role in the cosmetics industry. However, further clinical trials are needed to assess their effectiveness and safety. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The demand for products based on natural ingredients is increasing among cosmetic and textile consumers. Cork extracts contain components of interest with special properties, including antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial activities, that might improve the effectiveness of cosmetic formulations currently on the market and may impart new characteristics to textiles. The main goal of this work was to investigate the effect of the incorporation of three cork extracts into two commercial cosmetic formulations (formulation A and B) and evaluate their role as textile dyeing agents. The extracts (E1, E2, and E3) were obtained from cork powder using natural deep eutectic solvents (NADES) (E1-NADES 1: lactic acid:glycerol, E2-NADES 2: lactic acid:glycine, and E3-NADES 3: lactic acid:sodium citrate) and applied in combination with the solvent. The impact of the extracts on the cosmetic formulations' properties was evaluated in terms of pH, viscosity, antioxidant activity, transdermal permeation capacity, cytotoxicity, and organoleptic characteristics (odor, color, and appearance). The results demonstrated that the cork extracts improved the antioxidant performance of the formulations (90% reduction in DPPH (1,1-difenil-2-picril-hidrazil)). Moreover, low concentrations (5 mg/mL and 10 mg/mL) of extract did not present a cytotoxic effect on keratinocytes. Cotton fabrics were efficiently dyed with the NADES-based cork extracts which conferred to these substrates antioxidant (78% in DPPH reduction) and antibacterial abilities (inhibition halos: 12–15 mm). The application of cork extracts as ingredients in cosmetics or as dyeing/coloration agents for textile coloration is revealed to be a promising and green route to replace harmful ingredients normally used in industry. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Green tea ( GT) extracts contain polyphenols, known to be effective free radical scavengers, and other ingredients that could also provide benefits to the skin. This is a report on clinical studies using objective, noninvasive methods to evaluate the effects of cosmetic formulations containing GT. Experimental formulations were supplemented or not (vehicle) with 6% Camellia sinensis glycolic leaf extracts ( GT). These formulations were applied to the forearm skin of 24 volunteers, and their effects were evaluated before and after 2 hours, 15 and 30 days according to the following parameters: stratum corneum water content, transepidermal water loss, skin viscoelastic-to-elastic ratio ( Uv/ Ue), and microrelief. The volunteers were instructed not to apply any formulation in an area of the forearm (control area). Experimental formulations ( GT) increased skin moisture in the long-term study, indicating that GT has a prolonged moisturizing effect. The Uv/ Ue was significantly enhanced after 30 days of topical application of the experimental formulation when compared with vehicle and control. After 15-30 days, skin microrelief was significantly improved due to a reduction in skin roughness. The results suggest that GT-containing cosmetic formulations have pronounced moisturizing effects and improve skin microrelief. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Objective: To evaluate the irritant effect of cosmetic formulations elaborated with camu camu extracts. Material and Methods: This study was performed with cosmetic formulations containing camu camu extracts supplied by the AYRU COSMETIC Laboratory. We used the alternative in vitro technic on chorioallantoic membrane in fertile hen's eggs (HET CAM, hen's egg chorioallantoic membrane test). The technique was implemented at "Centro de Investigación de Medicina Tradicional y Farmacología" of the Research Institute of the school of Medicine of San Martin de Porres University. Results: None of the cosmetic with Camu Camu extracts showed chorioallantoic membrane rupture, which was verified by the absence of absorbed trypan blue dye, detectable at 595 nm. Conclusions: The rates of irritation (II) obtained in all cosmetic formulations allow us to classify them as NOT IRRITATING and support the safety of such products to continue clinical efficacy trials. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Synopsis In this work, a comparative study between two methods to acquire relevant information about a cosmetic formulation has been carried out. A Design of Experiments (DOE) has been applied in two stages to a capillary cosmetic cream: first, a Plackett–Burman (PB) design has been used to reduce the number of variables to be studied; second, a complete factorial design has been implemented. With the experimental data collected from the DOE, a Least Mean Square (LMS) algorithm and Artificial Neural Networks (ANN) have been utilized to obtain an equation (or model) that could explain cream viscosity. Calculations have shown that ANN are the best prediction method to fit a model to experimental data, within the interval of concentrations defined by the whole set of experiments. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Synopsis A rapid HPLC method was developed for the assay of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in cosmetic formulations. The validated method was applied for quantitative determination of these vitamins in simulated emulsion formulation. Samples were analysed directly on a RP-18 reverse phase column with UV detection at 222 nm. A mixture of methanol and isopropanol (25 : 75 v/v) was used as mobile phase. The retention time of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate were 3.0 min and 5.9 min, respectively. Recovery was between 95% and 104%. In addition, the excipients did not interfere in the analysis. The method is simple, reproducible, selective and is suitable for routine analyses of commercial products. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Synopsis The aim of this research was to develop and validate a high-performance liquid chromatographic (HPLC) method for simultaneous determination of five sunscreens, namely benzophenone-3 (B-3), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (BM), octyl methoxycinnamate (OM), octyl salicylate (OS) and homosalate (HS). The separation and quantitative determination was made by HPLC at 40 ±1°C with a gradient elution from 10% to 100% mobile phase B in mobile phase A. The gradient liquid chromatographic system constituted of mobile phase A [acetonitrile : water (10 : 90 v/v)] and mobile phase B [acetonitrile : water (90 : 10 v/v)], at a flow rate of 1.0 mL min−1 and ultraviolet detection at 310 nm. The separation was obtained with two Waters® reversed phase columns: Novapack® C-18 and Symmetry® C-18 connected in series. All sunscreens were efficiently separated within 17 min. The coefficient of correlation and average recovery for B-3, BM, OM, OS and HS were 0.9798 and 98.5%, 0.9672 and 98.8%, 0.9922 and 99.1%, 0.9961 and 98.9% and 0.9909 and 99.4% respectively. The relative standard deviations obtained were between 1.07% and 2.44%. The excipients did not interfere in the analysis. The results showed that the proposed method could be used for rapid and simultaneous determination of B-3, BM, OM, OS and HS in sunscreen lotions with precision, accuracy and specificity. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Background/aims: Antioxidants have been proposed, over the last decade, as functional ingredients for anti aging preparations and to prevent and modulate oxidative skin damages. Up to date, beside the photo-induced oxidative skin damages model, none in vivo protocols have shown sufficient reproducibility for the validation of the antioxidant claim for a cosmetic finished product. To this aim, we have recently anticipated a new in vivo protocol based on a microinflammatory model, driven by reactive oxygen species. In the present study our model was validated by comparison with four different instrumental methods. Methods: The effects of a pre-treatment of two different formulations based on antioxidant functional ingredients, were investigated on forearm skin of 15 healthy volunteers, and compared to a cosmetic base and control area. The instruments considered in the study were Chromameter (CR-300 Minolta), Tewameter TM 210 (Courage-khazaka, Cologne, Germany), Laser Doppler Perfusion Imager (PIM1.0 Lisca Development AB, Sweden), in comparison to DermAnalyzer®, an easy to use software program developed by us, using the CIE L*a*b* color space parameters. Results: The comparative measurements showed that the antioxidant formulations tested were all able to reduce, in different but statistically significant extent, the intensity of skin redness, and of cutaneous blood flow, when compared to control area (P < 0.0001). Conclusions: The methyl nicotinate (MN) based microinflammatory model, in conjunction with objective measure- ments, resulted an effective tool for in vivo assessment of oxidative skin injuries. In view of the high level of repeatability, short time of answer and simplicity, the procedure by us developed, is proposed as a possible protocol for the evaluation of in vivo efficacy of antioxidant functional ingredients in cosmetic formulations. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]