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The emergence of a habit in Indonesia and even the world, namely the use of used clothes (thrifting) became the idea for this research. This new habit is known to be able to reduce the production of textile waste in the world. The purpose of this study was to obtain analysis results that affect the use of new clothes (fast fashion) on the use of used clothes (thrifting). Using the K-means Clustering method and using several parameters, including age, quality, price, and sustainability or awareness. The method of collecting data is through a questionnaire and the research material is the buyers found in the online store Instagram (thriftboys.id). From the results of the clustering process that researchers have done using the K-means algorithm with manual calculations and rapidminer applications, the conclusions consist of; 1) In clusters 1 and 2 the age factor shifting from fast fashion to thhirft is 23 years, while in cluster 3 it is 25 years, 2) In the three clusters the average income that shifts from fast fashion to thhirf is group 3 or the range of 200000 -500000, 3) In the third cluster, people switch from fast fashion to thrift because of the good quality of goods, and 4) In clusters 2 and 3 more people are aware of textile waste for the world. Meanwhile, cluster 1 has the same number of conscious and unconscious waste.

The amount of post-consumer textile waste (PCTW) generated annually in the United States has increased nearly ten-fold since the 1960s to exceed more than 34 billion pounds annually. Of the waste generated, 66% is sent to landfills, 19% is combusted with energy recovery, and only 15% is recycled. When left to decompose in landfills, PCTW decomposes, producing harmful leachates and greenhouse gases including methane. In this study, we used publicly available data from 67 counties in the state of Florida from 2014 to 2019 to assess how PCTW generation and recycling behaviors differ by area-level demographic, socioeconomic, and retail characteristics. We also used publicly available data on landfills to determine whether these same factors were associated with having more landfills per capita in a county. This study provides preliminary evidence that people living in areas with higher incomes, that are more racially segregated, and that have more clothing stores generate significantly more textile waste than people in other areas. In contrast, there were more landfills per capita in areas with lower incomes and fewer landfills per capita in areas that were more racially segregated. Textile recycling occurred at relatively uniform rates across counties. Taken together, these findings support the understanding that textile waste represents an issue of environmental injustice; wealthier communities contribute more PCTW to landfills, which are more commonly located in communities with lower socioeconomic status. Multipronged solutions are needed to produce relevant behavior change, including efforts and policies that seek to reduce textile consumption and increase textile recycling at the individual and societal level.

PurposeWorker welfare and modern slavery within the fashion industry remain a key supply chain challenge for many retailers, consumers, governments and advocacy groups. Yet, despite publicised worker-welfare violations, many fashion retailers continue to post record sales and profits, indicating that consumer concern does not always translate at the cash register. Research has shown that worker welfare is a less salient area of concern for fashion consumers, and the aim of this research is to investigate the reasons why this may be the case.Design/methodology/approachDue to the exploratory nature of the research, a qualitative methodology was deemed the most appropriate. Twenty-one semi-structured interviews were conducted with Australian fast-fashion consumers to investigate the underlying reasons worker-welfare violations are less likely to elicit pro-social consumer behavioural change and are a less salient area of concern.FindingsThis study found that consumers perceive worker-welfare concerns at both a proximal and cultural distance to themselves, and therefore struggle to connect with the issues associated with modern slavery. Additionally, there was an underlying social consensus that exploitative practices are an accepted part of the fast-fashion supply chain to ensure the continuation of low-cost clothing. Despite an underlying awareness of exploitative practices and acknowledgement that modern slavery is ethically wrong, other consumer values often influenced purchase behaviour and the level of concern expressed towards garment workers.Originality/valueThis is the first study to apply psychological distance in a fast-fashion context to better understand consumer perceptions towards modern slavery. Responding to calls for further research into ethical consumption of apparel, this study develops an in-depth understanding of the reasons why worker welfare is a less salient area of concern for fast-fashion consumers. Extending on current literature, this study qualitatively investigates consumer sentiment towards worker welfare, identifying the greatest barriers to consumers' levels of concern. In addition to a theoretical contribution to the fashion, ethics and business literature, this article provides key insight to guide practice.

The purpose of this study was to better understand how consumers of fast fashion clothing with different shopping motivations consider sustainability during their purchase. The different shopping motivations are hedonic and utilitarian, which are respectively the emotion of shopping and the function of shopping. The main question for this research was “How do consumers of fast fashion clothing with different motivations (hedonic or utilitarian) consider sustainability during their purchase?” This qualitative research made use of 11 focus groups and a total of 44 participants to obtain in-depth data. The participants were divided into whether their main shopping motivation was hedonic, or utilitarian based on how they answered specific questions. The answers from both groups were compared with each other to find possible differences. When weighing the evidence and conclusions from the research, it appears relatively likely that there are no significant differences between consumers with a hedonic main shopping motivation and consumers with a utilitarian main shopping motivation. This leads to the conclusion of the main question, which is that there is no difference in how consumers of fast fashion clothing with different motivations consider sustainability during their purchase.

Many consumers are contented with the fast fashion styles, abundant choices, and affordable price. However, other consumers and environmental advocates began to question about this fast fashion system, including the problems of overconsumption and disposable clothing. As a result, many fashion practitioners and scholars have been developing different strategies and methods to minimise the fabric waste, and prolong the product lifespan through innovative design. The objectives of this study are twofold: (1) to explore various techniques for creating transformable clothing and (2) to gain a deeper understanding of how individuals (entrepreneurs, designers, professors, and consumers) respond to their perceptions of transformable clothing, and issues of sustainability in China. This study consists of three stages – design experiments, in-depth interviews, and online surveys. In stage one, various design prototypes were developed, with one of them being selected as the visual stimuli for stages two and three. According to our results, many informants and online participants supported the concept of sustainable fashion as well as the idea of transformable garments. However, many professionals had numerous concerns regarding the production cost, practicality, adaptability, and saleability.

Fast fashion has become a subject of interest to politicians as they grapple with the development of a sustainability strategy. To date the agenda has largely been informed by an examination of production methodologies and techniques documenting the rapid turnover of trends, the speed and efficiency of the production process and the lack of socially cohesive labour practices this consistently engenders. Whilst governments seek to raise awareness and begin to generate initiatives to tackle the environmental fall out of fast fashion, this paper turns its attention to the temporal patterns of consumer behaviour and why such a high percentage of what we buy is readily discarded soon after point of purchase. All stages in this linear model of consumption, it is argued, are shaped by a very specific relationship to time that ultimately informs our buying habits. Utilising the work of the philosopher A.N. Whitehead and adopting a more psychosocial approach to fashion consumption, this paper recognises that even when purposefully seeking to consume sustainably, a greater need to align our use of time with a results-driven mind set locates the acquisition of something new as a highly achievable goal. As a consequence, rather than positioning the rationale for fashion purchases in the context of conspicuous consumption and emulation, here it functions to mitigate a lack of temporal control in other areas of our lives. In response, it is proposed that any successful attempts at tackling the problems associated with fast fashion must also seek to understand the temporal dynamics of consumption. For whilst governments’ attention is turned to ways to reduce the environmental impact associated with the production of clothing, increasing consumer demand derived from ‘neophilia’ (Booker, 1970) will negate and indeed overturn any successes achieved. The conclusion will therefore suggest that promotional culture has a duty to explore ways in which it might engender greater emotional attachments to what we own. Future research into brand messaging, exploring the consequences of placing emphasis on quality over quantity and a subsequent potential deepening of a sense of brand loyalty, is also recommended as a way forward.

Fast and effectively disposable fashion has seen clothing reduced to transient items, worn for a short period of time then discarded. This has pushed down prices, moving textile and clothing production to low-cost labour countries and decimating the traditional Scottish textile economy. Fast fashion drives consumer demand for newness and uses finite resources that are damaging to the environment. In 2019, the pressure to move towards a more sustainable fashion and textile industry is intense. Traditional textile manufacture using natural, renewable sources that are inherently long-lasting offers a slow fashion alternative, epitomized by the Harris Tweed handweaver community in Scotland. Fashion has embraced digital, with growing online sales and increasing focus on digital content. This presents an opportunity to redress the balance by using technology to shape a sustainable future for traditional textiles. Utilizing an interpretive paradigm and inductive approach, an Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC) funded networking grant is presented as a qualitative case study, investigating how immersive technologies can be used to safeguard the future of traditional textile products, to educate contemporary, global audiences on the provenance and human hand behind manufacturing processes and to encourage consumption of products with longevity. This explanatory case study finds that fashion brands are using immersive technologies for virtual changing rooms or creative customer experiences but are not exploiting the possibilities of immersive technologies in engendering a sense of place or people behind the product. Findings also reveal that the Harris Tweed Authority and Harris Tweed Hebrides brand successfully use landscape to convey a sense of place, but are under-utilizing the handwoven value and sustainable, slow fashion credentials of Harris Tweed. China is identified as a potential place for Harris Tweed to gain valuable market share, with increasingly wealthy Chinese Generation Z consumers seeking individual exclusivity and sustainability in their clothing purchases, criteria that embody Harris Tweed.

Fast fashion is a fashion product that is rapidly producing according to the fashion trends. It isn't durable and people worn them a few times before being discarded, which turned them into a lot of garbage. It dyed with fabric dyes and chemicals that used in its production. This might have a big impact on the health of the wearer and the manufacturer. Especially, it also impacts on the environment in many ways. The purpose of this study is to explore the attitude and accessibility of fast fashion in each generation to realize the impact and problems of fast fashion. Additionally, we study people's motivation and factors in purchasing clothes. This research shows an analytical survey, it was conducted to survey 510 individuals in each generation. The survey was conducted by Google form survey. This survey found that the mostly respondents had third level of awareness of fast fashion issues, most of them are gen y and z and they still buy fast fashion products. A few people aware about this issues and support reducing the use of fast fashion products. If this situation continues, it will lead to a lot of unusable waste which is difficult to eliminate by incineration. This will lead to the production of many chemicals used in production to float up and destroy the atmosphere. It also causes air pollution problem to the surrounding area. Therefore, it can only be piled together to accumulate waste and the number of wastes multiplied over the years. Keywords: Fast fashion; Attitudes; Generation.

Generation cohorts have different tendencies in purchase behaviors, especially the Generation X and the Generation Y. Although the age gap between these two generation cohorts is not wide, the Generation X has distinctive purchase behaviors that are different from the Generation Y. In the fashion business, the Generation X consumers do not consider the brands in purchasing their clothes, but they calculate the benefits in buying a clothing product. However, the Generation Y consumers consider it as a part of their social status, therefore, they position themselves in the middle class or the upper class by what they wear. The aim of this research is to investigate the different purchase behaviors of the Generation X and Y in buying fast fashion products in Surabaya. The purchase behaviors are reflected through such variables as shopping orientation, status consumption, and impulse buying. As this is a quantitative research, the data are collected using questionnaires that are distributed to 100 respondents. The respondents are chosen using the purposive sampling technique. Then, the data are tested for the validity, reliability, normality, and homogeneity. To test the hypothesis, the independent samples t-test is used. The results show that the differences between the Generation X and the Generation Y are significant in their shopping orientation and impulse buying. However, there are no significant differences in the status consump-tions.

This article aims to understand the development of fashion consumerism in the United Kingdom (UK) with the focus: why fast fashion consumerism in the last two decades was very high? This study applied a post-structuralism paradigm, namely the Libidinal Economy concept from Jean-Francois Lyotard and a post-modernism paradigm on the Consumer Society from Jean Baudrillard. The method employed in the article is a case study in the UK in the last two decades. Data were collected from scientific writings, documents, news, and advertisements in media. The results show that fashion consumerism in the UK dated back to the 18th century; it strengthened in the first two decades of the 21st century, driven by libidinal economic activities and facilitated massively by technological advancements in both marketing and trades. The ability of multinational fast fashion companies to utilize the mass media to construct the social status of its consumers and to create “hyper-reality” needed by modern people nowadays seemed to surpass the awareness of British clothing consumers regarding the environmental impacts and global imbalances of the fast fashion industry. In this study, the application of the post-structuralism paradigm clarifies the relationship between technology, mass media, the expansion of capitalism and the consumption of fast fashion in British society, whereas the post-modernism paradigm highlights socio-cultural aspects that encouraged the creation of hyper-reality through fast fashion among the British. These findings contribute to the knowledge about the relationship between technology, media, and multinational fast fashion companies with the development of consumer society in the UK.

Purpose The process of fashion design varies between market segments, yet these variations have not yet been properly explored. This study aims to examine the fashion design process as practised at the mass-market level, as this is the most vibrant and the largest market segment in terms of production volumes and sales. Design/methodology/approach It is observed that 15 semi-structured interviews were conducted with mass-market fashion designers. Key activities of the mass-market design process were identified and a comparative analysis was conducted with the general design process. Findings The mass-market design process is found to prioritise profits rather than aesthetic aspects, with the buyer exercising more power than the designer. This hinders creativity, which, in turn, may impede a move towards more environmentally benign designs. Originality/value The clothing industry is responsible for high environmental impacts and many of these impacts arise through decisions made in the design stage. In particular, the mass-market for clothing because of its high volume of sales and fast throughput, accounts for a great deal of the impact. However, little is understood about the design process that is practised in the mass-fashion market. This paper fills the gap by developing a framework that describes the mass-market design process. Understanding the design process will enable progress to be made towards achieving the United Nations Sustainable Development Goal 12: Responsible Consumption and Production.

The global demand for textile products is rapidly increasing due to population growth, rising living standards, economic development, and fast fashion trends. Ethiopian growth and transformation plan (GTP) gives high priorities for the textile and apparel sectors to transform its agriculturally led economy to an industrial-based economy. To achieve this, the number of textile and apparel industries is rapidly expanding. However, the rapid growth in textile industry is generating mountains and mountains of by-products. In this review, possible applications of cotton stalk and cotton ginning waste in a variety of technologies and products are discussed in Ethiopian context. The finding of this study shows that Ethiopian current cotton cultivating area is about 80 000 hm2, even though the country has a potential of about 3 000 810 hm2 land for cotton cultivation. From the current cultivated area, more than 240 000 t of cotton stalk and 9240 t of cotton ginning trash have been generated as a by-product. But only a very little portion of the cotton stalk is being used as a raw fuel for household purposes and a small portion of cotton ginning trash is used for animal feed. Therefore, these underutilized lignocellulosic biomasses can be used as raw materials for producing different high-value biomaterials and thus country can perceive an economic and environmental benefit. A closer look at the structure and composition of the by-products shows that the whole part of cotton stalk and ginning waste can be used as a source of cellulose which can be exploited for conversion into a number of high-value biomaterials. Thus, conversion of the waste into valuable products can make cotton stalk and ginning by-products an attractive raw material for the production of high value bio-products.

The throwaway fast fashion culture leads to increasing wasteful consumption and the dwindling of the world’s natural resources. Thus, it has become apparent that for the good of the environment, consumers need to decrease frequency of buying clothes as a form of pro-environmental behavior (PEB). By linking the Theory of Planned Behavior and Goal-Framing Theory, this study determined factors that can encourage consumers towards PEB performance as well as the influence of goal frames on these factors. This study also explored how consumers’ clothing involvement moderates the effectiveness of these goal frames. Experiments with 350 female respondents were conducted. Results showed that attitude was significantly influenced by environment-frame, while subjective norms was influenced both by environment-frame and image-frame. Results also established a moderating effect of clothing involvement due to enjoyment on the influence of image-frame on subjective norms. The implications in the field of environmental communications were also discussed.

PurposeThe aim of the study reported in this article was to establish whether the quality of clothes of a given brand is perceived and assessed by consumers at the same level. An additional purpose was to identify the features that characterize the quality of popular, among Polish young female consumers, clothing brands and to classify them according to their quality level (perceived and assessed).Design/methodology/approachThe article presents two approaches to consumer assessment of the quality of clothes: the survey method, in which the product quality was determined by 320 Polish female young respondents (19–25) based on their own previous experiences and impressions related to a particular clothing brand, and a direct assessment of shirts of selected brands using a sensory quality assessment method, a five-point hedonic scale with the verbal anchor (115 evaluators).FindingsThe research has revealed a significant difference between the perception of selected quality features of brands and the consumer assessment of the products. The perception maps developed based on the PROFIT analysis (PROperty FITting) as well as on cluster analysis provided interesting information about the situation of selected brands and their features in comparison with others and allowed to identify strong and weak features characterizing a given category.Research limitations/implicationsThis study has several limitations. First and foremost, the research results cannot be generalized to all consumers because they encompass the results from one national context and one population of respondents (young females). It should also be noted that the conducted research comprises only the most popular clothing brands available on the Polish market, in particular, the fast fashion segment brands. Furthermore, it would be advisable to carry out a sensory assessment of the quality of other clothing items offered under the brand names investigated.Practical implicationsThis research could be a valuable source of information for clothing company managers, thanks to which they could better manage their brand and its position on the market. When undertaking marketing activities consisting of building positive perceptions about the product, it is important to make sure that the product offers an attractive sensory experience. When real quality deviates from consumer perceptions about the quality, managers should take corrective actions to restore and even improve the brand image in the eyes of the consumer, as well as to ensure the brand and the products offered under it a stable position on the market.Originality/valueBy comparing two approaches to consumer quality assessment, discrepancies between declared and real (sensory) quality of clothes have been identified and the distinctive features that differentiate selected brands regarding their quality level have been indicated.

In the present exploratory study, our primary aim was to explore whether knowledge about the fast-fashion industry's harmful effects would significantly impact participants' shopping intentions (i.e., eco or fast-fashion items products). Using an experimental approach, we created a virtual clothing shop and allowed participants to win, through a raffle, the contents of their shopping carts. Participants in the experimental group watched a video about the adverse environmental consequences of the fast-fashion industry. In contrast, in the control group, we used a neutral video describing various technical marketing strategies. In the experimental condition, participants chose more eco-friendly products) compared to the control. However, there were no significant differences between the two groups in terms of fast-fashion consumption behaviors, i.e., the choices of buying fast-fashion items. We also found several significant associations between participants' general concern for the environment, consideration of future consequences, civic moral disengagement, and consumption behaviors (buying eco or fast-fashion items following the experimental procedure). Results are discussed concerning their practical implications for sustainable citizenship participation and sustainable education.

In recent years, slow fashion has become a sustainable consumption movement that is the opposite of fast fashion. This study aimed to identify the key factors influencing the U.S. consumers’ purcha...

Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture, located in the southwest of Sichuan Province, is China’s largest Yi ethnic community and one of the country’s concentrated contiguous areas of deep poverty. On February 11, 2018, General Secretary Xi Jinping visited the poor people in the hinterland of Daliang Mountain and discussed with local officials and people on targeted poverty alleviation measures. In November 2020, the last seven state-level poverty-stricken counties in Liangshan Yi Autonomous Prefecture announced the elimination of poverty, thus eliminating all poverty-stricken counties in Sichuan Province. This is a historic moment for Liangshan Prefecture, a historic moment for Sichuan Province, and also a historic moment for China’s poverty alleviation. In this paper, the combination of Yi’s handmade embroidery and fast fashion clothing is of great practical significance to help Liangshan consolidate and expand the achievements of poverty alleviation.

Uma das indústrias que mais cresce é aquela que envolve produtos de vestuário. Ao longo do século passado (1900 – 2000), o mercado desse tipo de produto tem crescido e junto dele, a competitividade foi ficando mais acirrada. No caso da moda das massas (aquelas cuja produção acontece em grande escala), utiliza-se de processos que visam a produção de peças de forma mais rápida e mais baratas. Consequentemente são também rapidamente consumidas e descartadas. A esse sistema deu-se o nome de fast fashion. Entretanto, o prejuízo socioambiental é considerável. Opondo-se a esse sistema, o movimento slow fashion, surgiu no início deste século buscando minimizar esses danos socioambientais. Este artigo apresenta o processo de criação de uma coleção de roupas desenvolvida em um projeto de conclusão de curso a partir de estratégias sustentáveis. Para tanto, além de uma pesquisa bibliográfica, foi realizada um estudo prático – a proposta de coleção. Conclui-se que, tal como prega o movimento slow fashion, é possível produzir peças que preconizam os princípios de sustentabilidade.

China’s apparel industry has developed greatly and became the world’s largest apparel production and processing base. With its price advantage, popular style, offline stores and online purchase convenience, fast fashion appealed growing consumers of different ages and areas. In recent years, China’s fast fashion clothing has developed rapidly and the market has gradually grown through increases in Cross-border E-commerce activities. SheIn, a Chinese fast fashion apparel enterprise, neither targeted its home country nor sold well there. Instead, the fast fashion online retailer primarily targeted its overseas markets and earned billions of dollars in sales. This research takes the cross-border fast fashion brand SheIn, as an example, to explore the future competitive and development strategy of China’s local fast fashion apparel enterprises under new retail model. Our results suggest that paying more attention to domestic markets, increasing the stability of APPs, improving the quality of products, and choosing suitable Cross-border E-commerce platforms may be the competitiveness-increase strategies for SheIn in the future.

Purpose This study aims to test for factors affecting environmental sustainability and purchase intention in the fashion industry. Accordingly, the authors developed a framework that depicts the relationships between perceptions of social responsibility, consumer attitude, trust, purchase intention and perceived consumer effectiveness. Design/methodology/approach An online survey was conducted with an internationally diverse sample of 216 consumers. Data were analysed using partial least squares structural equation modelling. Findings The results indicated that perceptions of social responsibility directly affect consumers’ attitudes towards these fashion brands, as well as trust and perceived consumer effectiveness. Also, consumers need to perceive sustainability efforts of these brands as altruistic, and trust was found to be a direct predictor of purchase intention. However, both consumer attitude and perceived consumer effectiveness did not predict purchase intention. Research limitations/implications The survey was primarily distributed to young people. Therefore, a generalisation of the findings to other age groups might be limited. Practical implications Practicing managers should emphasise the fact that environmental sustainability and fast fashion brands could be sustainable to increase trust among consumers. Social implications When it comes to environmental issues, positive perceptions regarding the companies’ social responsibility efforts are vital to enhance both consumers’ trust towards the brands and their individual feeling of empowerment. Originality/value This study intends to shed light on the key elements that shape consumers’ attitudes and willingness to purchase green apparel.

The presented study examines the major problems in the Russian fashion industry and directions of its development according to the Strategy for the Development of the Light Industry of the Russian Federation until 2025; provides examples of innovative materials and technologies; analyzes the issues of environmental friendliness of textile and clothing manufacturers. Aim . The study aims to substantiate promising directions and trends in the fashion industry with allowance for the specific features of the Russian market. Tasks . The authors characterize the fashion industry as a sector of the modern economy; describe trends in the development of the fashion market in the cultural and historical context; identify current trends in the fashion market; describe the existing innovative solutions in the fashion industry. Methods . This study uses the methods of information analysis and synthesis of new knowledge to describe modern innovative solutions in the fashion industry, implementation mechanisms and advantages of cluster policy. Results . The fashion industry exists in the context of severe competition, economic instability, technological and social changes. This determines the key role of branding, economic efficiency, and compliance with environmental standards in gaining competitive advantages. Conclusions . In the post-quarantine period resulting from the removal of restrictions aimed at preventing the spread of COVID-19, successful operation of fashion industry enterprises would require adherence to the principles of economic efficiency and environmental safety of products, new managerial and technological solutions, and state support for the light industry.

Brand equity is a key marketing concept for academia as well as practitioners due to its ability to provide competitive advantage to firms. In the recent past, fast fashion branding has drawn noticeable attention. Since brand equity elements can impact consumers’ perceptions as well as behaviours, firms in fast fashion market want to understand the role of these elements for designing and implementing sustainable brand strategy. By using Aaker’s brand equity model, research was conducted on a sample of population based in the national capital of India and north Indian cities. The survey confirmed that the creation of brand equity is dependent on four brand equity dimensions and that these dimensions are interdependent. The findings show significant, positive and direct impact of brand awareness on brand personality, brand personality on perceived quality and perceived quality on brand loyalty. In addition, brand awareness, brand personality, perceived quality and brand loyalty have significant, positive and direct impact on consumer-based brand equity (CBBE). The current study provides empirical evidence of impact of select brand equity dimensions on each other and all brand equity dimensions on brand equity. This study provides key insights for developing strategies to strengthen CBBE.

PurposeThis paper examines the problem of lack of historical data and inadequate consideration of factors influencing demand in the forecasting of demand for fast fashion clothing and proposes an improved Bass model for the forecasting of such a demand and the demand for new clothing products.Design/methodology/approachFrom the perspective of how to solve the lack of data and improve the precision of the clothing demand forecast, this paper studies the measurement of clothing similarity and the addition of demand impact factors. Using the fuzzy clustering–rough set method, the degree of resemblance of clothing is determined, which provides a basis for the scientific utilisation of historical data of similar clothing to forecast the demand for new clothing. Besides, combining the influence of consumer preferences and seasonality on demand forecasting, an improved Bass model for a fast fashion clothing demand forecast is proposed. Finally, with a forecasting example of demand for clothing, this study also tests the validity of the method.FindingsThe objective measurement method of clothing similarity in this paper solves the problem of the difficult forecasting of demand for fast fashion clothing due to a lack of sales data at the preliminary stage of the clothing launch. The improved Bass model combines, comprehensively, consumer preferences and seasonality and enhances the forecast precision of demand for fast fashion clothing.Originality/valueThe paper puts forward a scientific, quantitative method for the forecasting of new clothing products using historical sales data of similar clothing, thus solving the problem of lack of sales data of the fashion.

The constructed gender roles and stereotypes of women position them to be uniquely impacted by the fast fashion industry because of the feminization of the fashion industry as a whole. They are disproportionately employed in the sweatshops of the garment industry, and also are mainly targeted as the consumers of fast fashion. However, because of the different levels of privilege that consumers and garment workers hold, although they are both affected by the fast fashion industry more so than their male counterparts, gender plays two different roles in these two different situations. Ultimately, many modern fast fashion critiques take a neoliberal stance in putting the responsibility on these young fast fashion consuming women to stop the fast fashion industry. However, alternate literature suggests that other actors have immense responsibility that is often overlooked. Thus, although these relatively privileged young women do have some responsibility in the horrors of the fast fashion industry, the feminization of responsibility for the practices of the industry are unfair. When a highly feminized industry like the fast fashion one becomes problematic, the responsibility for positive change is also placed upon females. The switch to ethical and sustainable fashion as the primary, and only, type of clothing to purchase is imperative. However, this switch should not only be the consumers’ burden, but rather that of the fashion industry as a whole.

PurposeThis study aims to point out the importance and the relevance of sustainability issues and the need for their enhancement in the contemporary model of corporate social responsibility (CSR) as the top priority for business entities. Furthermore, it also highlights ways to enhance sustainability in the contemporary CSR model in the fast fashion industry of developing countries.Design/methodology/approachLiterature review has been extensively done through available databases, including ProQuest and ScienceDirect.FindingsThis study delivers a full insight into the current state of research on the CSR model and sustainability in developing countries. The prevalent corporate environmental sustainability practices of global apparel brands are identified to propose ways to enhance sustainability in the contemporary CSR model.Research limitations/implicationsThe growth of fast fashion industry brings the risks of unsustainability to developing countries. Thus, it is a must for the garment and textile companies to enhance a sustainable CSR model through promoting sustainable leadership and integrating corporate culture.Originality/valueTo the best of author’s knowledge, this study is the first to emphasise the role of sustainable leadership in promoting a sustainable CSR model in the fast fashion industry of developing countries.

PurposeThis research critically investigates product development in the context of fast fashion online retailers who are developing “own label” fashion clothing. With a focus upon inputs, outputs, planning and management in order to comprehensively map the interplay of people, processes and the procedures of the product development process adopted.Design/methodology/approachQualitative research method was employed. Face-to-face semi structured in depth interviews were conducted with key informants from market leading fast fashion online retailers in the UK.FindingsThe major findings of this research demonstrate the disruptions in the product development process in contemporary and challenging fashion retailing and a new “circular process” model more appropriate and specific to online fast fashion businesses is presented.Research limitations/implicationsThe research has implications for the emerging body of theory relating to fashion product development. The research is limited to UK online fashion retailers, although their operations are global.Practical implicationsThe findings from this study may be useful for apparel product development for retailers considering an online and fast fashion business model.Originality/valueThe emergent process model in this study may be used as a baseline for further studies to compare product development processes.

PurposeThe rise of fast fashion has changed the face of global fashion. Despite sector growth, critics have questioned the level of obsolescence, encouragement of over-consumption and fast fashion's unsustainable business practices. Specifically, mounting concerns surround the impact on environmental, worker and animal welfare. Accordingly, the aim of this current work is to understand the influence of consumer's values on ethical consumption in a fast-fashion context.Design/methodology/approachAn online survey was designed to collect responses relating to personal values and ethical concerns towards animal and worker welfare issues, as well as environmental concerns. A total of 350 US-based fast-fashion consumers completed the survey via Amazon MTurk. Factor analyses and structural equation modelling were used to analyse and test a theoretically hypothesised model.FindingsThis study found that self-transcendence values and openness to change values have a positive impact on consumers' levels of ethical concern towards animal welfare, the environment and worker welfare concerns within the fashion industry. Furthermore, a consumer's level of concern towards animal welfare and the environment positively influences a consumer's likeliness to purchase ethically marketed fast fashion.Originality/valueThis is the first study to investigate the role of consumer values and their influence on ethical concerns within the fashion industry and the impact of these concerns on intentions to purchase ethically marketed fast fashion. Responding to calls for further research into ethical consumption of apparel, this study includes all elements of ethical consumption identified, including animal welfare. This study identifies ethical areas of concern salient amongst fast-fashion consumers and provides a deeper understanding of the values impacting the level of ethical concerns surrounding animal welfare, the environment and worker welfare.

Fast fashion has become notorious for its environmental, social and psychological implications. This article reports on some of the work undertaken as part of the Arts and Humanities Research Council (AHRC)-funded S4S: Designing a Sensibility for Sustainable Clothing project, which sought to combine social science and participatory arts-based research methods to explore how processes of ‘making together’ in community textiles groups might generate a new ethic, or sensibility, among consumers to equip them to make more sustainable clothing choices. The study develops a novel methodology that responds to the complex demands of participatory working. It required careful management of the combinations of methods, which included various different making workshops; wardrobe audits; interviews; films and journal keeping. The project also raises the question of using multi-modal formats, which generate rich data, but also add to the complexity, highlighting a 2 need for multi-disciplinary teams. The article focuses on participant responses from two series of 5-day workshops that explored: 1) Hand-making fabrics by spinning, dyeing and weaving thread; and 2) Deconstructing and reconstructing knitted garments. The embodied encounters offered in the workshops encouraged participants to reflect on the fluidity of garments, by which we mean coming to view clothing not as fixed objects but rather as open and full of potentiality for change. For example, a jumper might be unravelled and the wool used for a different piece of clothing, or a dress unpicked and the fabric used for some entirely different garment. The resultant affective responses ranged from a deeper engagement with the materialities of the clothing industry to an awareness of the amount of time incorporated in the process of making clothes as participants started to re-imagine clothing through the embodied act of re-making. Keywords: sustainable fashion, co-production, affect, activism, craft, community, social design