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The stratum corneum represents the first skin barrier against chemical and physical damage. These unique properties are based on its peculiar lipid composition with ceramides (CERs) as the main protagonists. In this study, the structural and chemical properties of the α-OH phytosphingosine [AP] CER class have been investigated. α-OH CERs are present in the stratum corneum in their d-forms; however, in most model systems the diastereomer mixture with the synthetically produced l-form is used. The d-form is well-known to form a hydrogen bonding network that helps to reduce the permeability of the lipid matrix, while the l-form does not show any hydrogen bonding network formation. In this paper, 2D (monolayers) and 3D (aqueous dispersions) models have been used to thoroughly study the physical-chemical behaviors of CER[AP] diastereomers taking into account how the symmetry of the chain pattern influences the behavior of the molecules. The chains of both diastereomers arrange in an oblique unit cell, but only the d-CER[AP] forms a supramolecular lattice (subgel phase) in both model systems. Interestingly, the chain pattern does not play any role in structure formation since the hydrogen bonding network dictates the packing properties. The 1:1 mixture of the diastereomers phase separates into two domains: one is composed of practically pure d-form and the other one is composed of a mixture of the l-form with a certain amount of d-form molecules.

This study used neutron diffraction to investigate a ceramide-[NP] C24/[AP] C24 /[EOS]-br C30/cholesterol/lignoceric acid (0.6: 0.3: 0.1: 0.7: 1) based stratum corneum modelling system. By adding specifically deuterated ceramides-[NP]-D 3 , [AP]-D 3 , and [EOS]-br-D 3 , detailed information on the lamellar and the nanostructure of the system was obtained. For the short periodicity phase a natural-like lamellar repeat distance of 5.47 ± 0.02 nm was observed, similar to the [NP]/[AP] base system without the [EOS]-br. Unlike in this system the ceramides here were slightly tilted, hinting towards a slightly less natural arrangement. Due to the deuteration it was possible to observe that the long ceramide chains were overlapping in the lamellar mid-plane. This is considered to be an important feature for the natural stratum corneum. Despite the presence of a ceramide [EOS] analogue - able to form a long phase arrangement - no distinct long periodicity phase was formed, despite a slightly higher than natural ω-acyl ceramide ratio of 10 mol%. The deuterated variant of this ceramide determined that the very long ceramide was integrated into the short periodicity phase, spanning multiple layers instead. The - compared to the base system - unchanged repeat distance highlights the stability of this structure. Furthermore, the localisation of the very long ceramide in the short periodicity phase indicates the possibility of a crosslinking effect and thus a multilayer stabilizing role for the ceramide [EOS]. It can be concluded, that additionally to the mere presence of ceramide-[EOS] more complex conditions have to be met in order to form this long phase. This has to be further investigated in the future., (Copyright © 2018 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

For this study mixtures based on the ceramides [NS] (NS = non-hydroxy-sphingosine) and [AP] (AP = α-hydroxy-phytosphingosine) in a 2:1 and 1:2 ratio, together with cholesterol and lignoceric acid, were investigated. These mixtures are modelling the uppermost skin layer, the stratum corneum. Neutron diffraction, utilizing specifically deuterated ceramide molecules, was used to obtain a maximum amount of experimental detail. Highly detailed molecular dynamics simulations were used to generate even more information from the experimental data. It was possible to observe a single lamellar phase for both systems. They had a lamellar repeat distance of 5.43 ± 0.05 nm for the [NS]/[AP] 2:1 and a slightly shorter one of 5.34 ± 0.05 nm for the 1:2 system. The structure and water content was uninfluenced by excess humidity. Both the experimental and simulation data indicated slightly tilted ceramides, with their C24 chains overlapping in the lamellar mid-plane. This arrangement is well comparable to systems investigated before. The structure of both systems, except for the differing repeat distance, looks similar at first. However, on a smaller scale there were various distinct differences, demonstrating only low redundancy between the different ceramide species, despite only minor chemical differences. The mainly ceramide [AP] determined 1:2 system has a slightly smaller repeat distance. This is a result of a tighter arrangement of the lipids chain along the bilayer normal and increased overlapping of the long chains in the lamellar middle. For the CER[NS] some novel features could be shown, despite it being the overall most investigated ceramide. These include the low adaptability to changed lateral interactions, leading to an increased chain opening. This effect could explain its low miscibility with other lipids. The investigated model systems allows it to directly compare results from the literature which have used ceramide [NS] to the most recent studies using the phytosphingosine ceramides such as ceramide [AP]., (Copyright © 2018 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

This study was able to investigate the different influence of the d- and l-ceramide [AP] on the lamellar as well as molecular nanostructure of stratum corneum simulating lipid model mixtures. In this case, neutron diffraction together with specifically deuterated ceramide was used as an effective tool to investigate the lamellar and the molecular nanostructure of the mixtures. It could clearly be demonstrated, that both isomers show distinctly different characteristics, even though the variation between both is only a single differently arranged OH-group. The l-ceramide [AP] promotes a crystalline like phase behaviour even if mixed with ceramide [NP], cholesterol and free fatty acids. The d-ceramide [AP] only shows crystalline-like features if mixed only with cholesterol and free fatty acids but adopts a native-like behaviour if additionally mixed with ceramide [NP]. It furthermore demonstrates that the l-ceramide [AP] should not be used for any applications concerning ceramide substitution. It could however possibly serve its own purpose, if this crystalline like behaviour has some kind of positive influence on the SC or can be utilized for any practical applications. The results obtained in this study demonstrate that the diastereomers of ceramide [AP] are an attractive target for further research because their influence on the lamellar as well as the nanostructure is exceptionally strong. Additionally, the results furthermore show a very strong influence on hydration of the model membrane. With these properties, the d-ceramide [AP] could be effectively used to simulate native like behaviour even in very simple mixtures and could also have a strong impact on the native stratum corneum as well as high relevance for dermal ceramide substitution. The unnatural l-ceramide [AP] on the other hand should be investigated further, to assess its applicability., (Copyright © 2017 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

The synthesis of specific deuterated derivatives of the long chained ceramides [EOS] and [EOP] is described. The structural differences with respect to the natural compounds are founded in the substitution of the 2 double bonds containing linoleic acid by a palmitic acid branched with a methyl group in 10-position. The specific deuteration is introduced both in the branched and in the terminal methyl group, which was realized by common methods of successive deuteration of carboxylic groups in 3 steps. These modified fatty acids resp. the corresponding ceramides [EOS] and [EOP] were prepared for neutron scattering investigations. First results of these investigations were presented in this manuscript showing that the deuterated compounds could be detected in the stratum corneum lipid model membranes. The deuterated ceramides [EOS] and [EOP] are valuable tools to investigate the influence of these long chained ceramide species on the nanostructure of stratum corneum lipid model membranes., (Copyright © 2017 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.)

The very heterogeneous group of ceramides is known to be mandatory for proper barrier functions of the outermost layer of mammalian skin, referred to as stratum corneum (SC). The synthesis of a specifically deuterated ceramide [AP]-C18 variant is described. The synthesized ceramide contains the racemic forms of the α hydroxy fatty acid. For the biophysical implementation, the received diastereomeric ceramide was applied in a neutron diffraction experiment. Therefore, a SC lipid model membrane was prepared containing the described ceramide (CER), cholesterol (CHOL), stearic acid (SA), and cholesterol sulfate (ChS) in a ratio of 55/25/15/5wt%. Thus, we were able to localize the deuterated molecule part within the bilayers. In the process, a short-periodicity phase (SPP) was observed with a unit cell scale of about 44Å. For the first time, we were able to confirm former ideas concerning the arrangement of the CER within this quaternary lipid model membrane., (Copyright © 2017 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

Isopropyl myristate (IPM) is a widely used penetration enhancer in pharmaceutical formulations, however, its mechanism of action on a molecular scale is still not completely understood. Previous work using a quaternary Stratum Corneum (SC) lipid model in bulk suggested the incorporation of isopropyl myristate into the SC lipid matrix, phase separation, and perturbation of the multilamellar lipid assembly. Here, we used 2D Langmuir monolayers of a ternary SC lipid model, containing ceramide AP C18:18, stearic acid and cholesterol in a molar ratio of [1:1:0.7], respectively, to shed light on the mechanism of action of this important lipophilic penetration enhancer. To do so, the synthesis of chain deuterated isopropyl myristate was successfully performed in order to study the different coupling possibilities between the hydrogenated and deuterated IPM and the alkyl chains of the SC molecules. Our results indicate that only a small portion of IPM is able to mix with our SC model leading to a limited fluidizing effect (small increase of the wavenumber of CH 2 stretching vibration, increase of the SC layer flexibility), but will be squeezed out at higher lateral pressures. Furthermore, the deuteration of IPM enhances the miscibility with this SC model, probably due to a different coupling between the alkyl chains or the alkyl and deuterated chains. Additionally, using the pure D-form of CER[AP] in the SC model amplifies the obtained results., (Copyright © 2017 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

The outermost layer of the mammalian skin, the stratum corneum (SC), is a very thin structure and realizes simultaneously the main barrier properties. The penetration barrier for xenobiotica is mostly represented by a complex lipid matrix. There is great interest in the subject of getting information about the arrangement of the lipids, which are mainly ceramides (CER), free fatty acids (FFA) and cholesterol (CHOL). SC lipid model membranes containing synthetically derived lipids in a non-physiological ratio were investigated. To compare the study to a former experiment, a methyl-branched ceramide [EOS] species in presence of the ultra-long chain CER[AP], CHOL and behenic acid (23/10/33/33, wt%) was applied. The membrane structure was studied using the very versatile technique of neutron diffraction. We were able to identify a long-periodicity phase (LPP) with a size of 114Å or 118Å with CER[EOS]-br in a ratio of >60wt% of the ceramides. Furthermore, we figured out two additional coexisting short-periodicity phases (SPP) with repeat distances of 48Å and 45Å, respectively. Partial deuterations of CER[EOS]-br and CER[AP] enabled the localization of the molecules within the multiphase system. CER[EOS]-d3 was present in the LPP, but absent in both SPP. CER[AP]-d3 was determined in both short phases but not localized within the LPP. Besides, we revealed influences of humidity and time with respect to the long-periodicity phase., (Copyright © 2016 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

The synthesis of 12 deuterated ceramides with either a deuteration at the last carbon atom of the amide bound fatty acid or a perdeuterated fatty acid chain is described. The ceramides were prepared starting from sphingosine or phytosphingosine and ω deuterated or perdeuterated fatty acids with PyBOP® as activating agent in high yields. For the synthesis of the specifically deuterated fatty acids, dicarboxylic acids were transformed into ω deuterated alkyl bromide, which was chain elongated with blocked ω bromo alcohols by copper catalyzed Grignard coupling. Oxidation of regenerated alcohol function yields the ω deuterated fatty acids., (Copyright © 2016 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd.)

The thermoptropic phase behaviors of two stratum corneum model lipid mixtures composed of equimolar contributions of either Cer[NS18] or Cer[NP18] with stearic acid and cholesterol were compared. Each component of the mixture was specifically deuterated such that the temperature-dependent (2)H NMR spectra allowed disentanglement of the complicated phase polymorphism of these lipid mixtures. While Cer[NS] is based on the sphingosine backbone, Cer[NP] features a phytosphingosine, which introduces an additional hydroxyl group into the headgroup of the ceramide and abolishes the double bond. From the NMR spectra, the individual contributions of all lipids to the respective phases could be determined. The comparison of the two lipid mixtures reveals that Cer[NP] containing mixtures have a tendency to form more fluid phases. It is concluded that the additional hydroxyl group of the phytosphingosine-containing ceramide Cer[NP18] in mixture with chain-matched stearic acid and cholesterol creates a packing defect that destabilizes the orthorhombic phase state of canonical SC mixtures. This steric clash favors the gel phase and promotes formation of fluid phases of Cer[NP] containing lipid mixtures at lower temperature compared to those containing Cer[NS18].

Ceramides (CERs) are integral parts of the intercellular lipid lamellae of the stratum corneum (SC), which is responsible for the barrier function of the skin. Many skin diseases such as atopic dermatitis and psoriasis are associated with the depletion or disturbance of the level of CERs in the SC. Administration of an exogenous novel dimeric ceramide (dCER) deep into the SC may help to stabilize the SC barrier substantially and to treat some skin disease conditions. Consequently, with the help of the existing technology, it might be possible to formulate various pharmaceutical dosage forms that can facilitate penetration of dCER into the SC. Therefore, the penetration of dCER was studied using a high-performance liquid chromatography/atmospheric-pressure ionization/mass spectrometry method for the detection and quantification of exogenous dCER in the SC as well as other skin layers. Penetration studies were carried out in the Franz diffusion cell using excised human skin ex vivo. Penetration of dCER was studied with 3 model formulations: a colloidal formulation (microemulsion), a cream formulation with ethoxydiglycol as penetration enhancer and a nanoformulation. The highest concentrations of dCER in the different skin layers were found after application of the cream with penetration enhancer. Surprisingly, the lowest concentrations of dCER in the different skin layers were found after application of the microemulsion., (© 2016 S. Karger AG, Basel.)

Ceramides (CERs) are integral parts of the intercellular lipid lamellae of the stratum corneum (SC), which provide the barrier function of the skin. Administration of CERs deep into the SC may help to restore the barrier function in affected or aged skin. However, quantification of the amount of CER penetrated into the target site needs a selective and sensitive analytical method. Therefore, an LC/ESI-MS method was developed and validated for the detection and quantification of exogenous CER [NP] in the SC as well as other skin layers. The strategy involved synthesis of ceramide [NP]-D3-18 (deuterated CER [NP]) to distinguish it from the endogenous CER [NP] in MS on weight basis. The method was linear over 10-800 ng/ml and sensitive with a limit of detection (LOD) and limit of quantification (LOQ) of 3 and 10 ng/ml, respectively. It was also accurate with within-run and between-run percentage recoveries of 97.1-103.2 and 99.0-104.9, respectively. The within-run and between-run relative standard deviations (RSDs) were 0.9-5.4% and 2.1-7.4%, respectively, suggesting the method is precise. The method was highly selective and the matrix effect was too minimal with matrix factor (MF) mean and RSD values of 1.002 and 4.57%, respectively., (Copyright © 2011 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.)

The stratum corneum (SC), the outermost layer of the mammalian skin, is the main skin barrier. Ceramides (CERs) as the major constituent of the SC lipid matrix are of particular interest. At the moment, 11 classes of CERs are identified, but the effect of each single ceramide species is still not known. Therefore in this article, the thermotropic behaviour of the long chain omega-acylceramides CER[EOS] and CER[EOP] was studied using X-ray powder diffraction and FT-Raman spectroscopy. It was found that the omega-acylceramides CER[EOS] and CER[EOP] do not show a pronounced polymorphism which is observed for shorter chain ceramides as a significant feature. The phase behaviour of both ceramides is strongly influenced by the extremely long acyl-chain residue. The latter has a much stronger influence compared with the structure of the polar head group, which is discussed as extremely important for the appearance of a rich polymorphism. Despite the strong influence of the long chain, the additional OH-group of the phyto-sphingosine type CER[EOP] influences the lamellar repeat distance and the chain packing. The less polar sphingosine type CER[EOS] is stronger influenced by the long acyl-chain residue. Hydration is necessary for the formation of an extended hydrogen-bonding network between the polar head groups leading to the appearance of a long-periodicity phase (LPP). In contrast, the more polar CER[EOP] forms the LPP with densely packed alkyl chains already in the dry state.

In order to elucidate the mode of action of the lipophilic penetration enhancer isopropyl myristate (IPM) on a molecular scale, we investigated oriented quaternary stratum corneum (SC) lipid model membranes based on ceramide AP, cholesterol, palmitic acid and cholesterol sulfate containing 10 wt% IPM by means of neutron diffraction. Our results indicate that IPM affects the lamellar lipid assembly in terms of bilayer perturbation and disordering. Phase segregation occurred, indicating that IPM is not likely to mix properly with the other SC lipids due to its branched structure. We used selective deuterium labelling to localize the penetration enhancer, and could successfully prove the presence of IPM in the two coexisting lamellar phases. We conclude that IPM's mode of action as penetration promoter is presumably based on incorporation into the SC lipid matrix, extraction of certain SC lipids into a separate phase and perturbation of the multilamellar lipid assembly. Copyright © 2012 S. Karger AG, Basel [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]