Search

The impact of storm surge on a barrier island tends to be considered from a single cross-shore dimension, dependent on the relative elevations of the storm surge and dune crest. However, the foredune is rarely uniform and can exhibit considerable variation in height and width at a range of length scales. In this study, LiDAR data from barrier islands in Texas and Florida are used to explore how shoreline position and dune morphology vary alongshore, and to determine how this variability is altered or reinforced by storms and post-storm recovery. Wavelet analysis reveals that a power law can approximate historical shoreline change across all scales, but that storm-scale shoreline change (~ 10 years) and dune height exhibit similar scale-dependent variations at swash and surf zone scales (< 1000 m). The in-phase nature of the relationship between dune height and storm-scale shoreline change indicates that areas of greater storm-scale shoreline retreat are associated with areas of smaller dunes. It is argued that the decoupling of storm-scale and historical shoreline change at swash and surf zone scales is also associated with the alongshore redistribution of sediment and the tendency of shorelines to evolve to a more diffusive (or straight) pattern with time. The wavelet analysis of the data for post-storm dune recovery is also characterized by red noise at the smallest scales characteristic of diffusive systems, suggesting that it is possible that small-scale variations in dune height can be repaired through alongshore recovery and expansion if there is sufficient time between storms. However, the time required for dune recovery exceeds the time between storms capable of eroding and overwashing the dune. Correlation between historical shoreline retreat and the variance of the dune at swash and surf zone scales suggests that the persistence of the dune is an important control on transgression through island migration or shoreline retreat with relative sea-level rise. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Barrier islands exhibit a range of landforms that reflect the complex and varied combination of coastal and aeolian processes realized over the evolution of the island. A detailed analysis of the topography can be used to describe the evolution of a barrier island and provide insight on how it may be affected by a change in sea level, storm activity and wind exposure patterns. Topographic anisotropy, or the directional dependence of relief of landforms, can be used to determine the relative importance of different processes to island evolution at a range of scales. This short communication describes the use of scale-dependent topographic anisotropy to characterize the structure of Santa Rosa Island in northwest Florida. Scale-dependent topographic relief and asymmetry were assessed from a LiDAR-derived DEM from May 2004, a few months before the island experienced widespread erosion and overwash during Hurricane Ivan. This application demonstrates how anisotropy can be used to identify unique scale-dependent structures that can be used to interpret the evolution of this barrier island. Results of this preliminary study further highlight the potential of using topographic anisotropy to controls on barrier island response and recovery to storms as well as island resiliency with sea level rise and storm activity. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The response and recovery of a barrier island to extreme storms depends on the elevation of the dune base and crest, both of which can vary considerably alongshore and through time. Quantifying the response to and recovery from storms requires that we can first identify and differentiate the dune(s) from the beach and back-barrier, which in turn depends on accurate identification and delineation of the dune toe, crest and heel. The purpose of this paper is to introduce a multi-scale automated approach for extracting beach, dune (dune toe, dune crest and dune heel), and barrier island morphology. The automated approach introduced here extracts the shoreline and back-barrier shoreline based on elevation thresholds, and extracts the dune toe, dune crest and dune heel based on the average relative relief (RR) across multiple spatial scales of analysis. The multi-scale automated RR approach to extracting dune toe, dune crest, and dune heel based upon relative relief is more objective than traditional approaches because every pixel is analyzed across multiple computational scales and the identification of features is based on the calculated RR values. The RR approach out-performed contemporary approaches and represents a fast objective means to define important beach and dune features for predicting barrier island response to storms. The RR method also does not require that the dune toe, crest, or heel are spatially continuous, which is important because dune morphology is likely naturally variable alongshore. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: This commentary brings together, as a Virtual Special Issue, several recent papers in Earth Surface Processes and Landforms that improve our understanding of coastal barrier response to relative sea level rise and a change in the frequency and/or magnitude of storm events. The ability to predict barrier response depends on the ability to quantify the spatial and temporal scales of sediment exchange amongst the nearshore, beach and dune. This exchange controls the height of the dune, which in turn determines the transfer of sediment to the backbarrier through washover and/or blowouts. The papers in this issue provide new insight on beach–dune interaction and the importance of this interaction to long‐term barrier evolution across a range of sites and scales, and how active management can influence this interaction and alter barrier response. Copyright © 2018 John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

The ability of beaches and dunes to recover following an extreme storm is a primary control of barrier island response to sea-level rise and changes in the frequency and/or magnitude of storm surges. Whereas erosion of the beach and dune occurs over hours and days, it can be years to decades before the beach and dune are able to recover to their pre-storm state. As a consequence, there are numerous descriptions of near-instantaneous beach and dune erosion due to storms, the immediate onshore transport of sand, and the initial phases of beach and dune recovery following a storm, but a paucity of data on long-term beach and dune recovery. A combination of previously published data from Galveston Island, Texas and new remotely sensed data from Santa Rosa Island, Florida is used in the present study to quantify the rate of dune recovery for dissipative and intermediate beach types, respectively. Recovery of the dune height and volume on Galveston Island was observed within two years following Hurricane Alicia (1983) and was largely complete within six years of the storm, despite extensive washover. In contrast, the dunes on Santa Rosa Island in Northwest Florida began to recover four years after Hurricane Ivan (2004), and only after the profile approached its pre-storm level and the rate of vegetation recovery (regrowth) was at a maximum. Results show that complete recovery of the largest dunes (in height and volume) will take approximately 10 years on Santa Rosa Island, which suggests that these sections of the island are particularly vulnerable to significant change in island morphology if there is also a change in the frequency and magnitude of storm events. In contrast, the areas of the island with the smallest dunes before Hurricane Ivan exhibited a rapid recovery, but no further growth in profile volume and dune height beyond the pre-storm volume and height, despite continued recovery of the largest dunes to their pre-storm height. A change in storm magnitude and/or frequency is a potential threat to barrier island resilience, particularly for those sections of the island where dune recovery has historically taken the longest time. Further study is required to determine how and why dune recovery varies for the dissipative and intermediate beaches of Galveston Island and Santa Rosa Island, respectively. [ABSTRACT FROM AUTHOR]

Abstract: The geomorphological impact of an extreme storm on a barrier island tends to be modeled using a single cross-shore transect and dependent only on the elevation of the storm surge relative to the height of the dune. The foredune line, however, is rarely uniform and can exhibit considerable variation in height and width alongshore at a range of length scales. The purpose of this modeling study is to determine how alongshore variations in dune height affect barrier island response to extreme storms. The MIKE21 wave and current model is used to predict the morphological response of Matagorda Peninsula, Texas in response to storm surges associated with dune scarping, washover and inundation. The extent and degree of dune-scarping, washover and shoreline erosion is predicted for each storm scenario, with respect to the base morphology of the island and low-pass filtered forms in which small-scale topographic variance is removed. Results suggest that small variations in the height of an otherwise alongshore uniform foredune act as overwash conduits and are unstable, leading to a more variable duneline that is more susceptible to change by subsequent storms. The vertical development of the washover gaps in the duneline is limited and eventually replaced by a lateral expansion that erodes adjacent dunes and leads to a more uniform island elevation. The loss of island elevation is greater for the (original) unfiltered alongshore profile, but relatively uniform duneline is the most unstable and exhibits the greatest morphological change. The different alongshore profile responses suggest that the impact of an extreme storm is sensitive to initial conditions and specifically the pre-storm variability of the crest elevation alongshore. This in turn suggests that the evolution of barrier islands is dependent on storm history until the variability in the duneline elevation reaches a maximum. Further study of barrier island response to storm sequencing with and without post-storm recovery, however, is required to understand the evolution and form for the prototype island. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: The shoreface of Santa Rosa Island in northwest Florida is characterized by a ridge and swale bathymetry that forces an alongshore variation in beach and dune morphology. The alongshore variation in dune morphology in turn controls the modern island response to and recovery from tropical storms and hurricanes, and is therefore, an important control on island transgression with relative sea-level rise. Field sampling and remote sensing are used in the present study to describe the geologic framework of Santa Rosa Island, and to elucidate on the origins of the shore-attached ridge and swale bathymetry. Vibracores and seismic and GPR surveys were completed along 42 cross-shore transects and 3 shore-parallel transects to examine the structure of the 21 ridge and swale structures found along Santa Rosa Island. The shore-parallel seismic surveys reveal strong near-horizontal reflectors through the ridges at depths consistent with thick back-barrier muds extracted from vibracores taken across and along the ridges. Near-horizontal reflectors are identified in ground-penetrating radar (GPR) surveys between the ridges and cuspate spits along the back-barrier shoreline, but are not present in the narrow sections of the island landward of the swales. Continuation of the seismic surveys in the back-barrier also reveals near-horizontal reflectors at the cuspate spits that are characterized by seagrass beds, salt marsh and maritime forest. Consistent with the GPR survey, there is an absence of horizontal reflectors between cuspate spits where the washover deposits extend to the back-barrier shoreline. It is argued that the ridge and swale bathymetry is a transgressive surface and the remnants of cuspate spits that are present along the back-barrier shoreline. In this respect, the cuspate spits had to first develop along the back-barrier shoreline and eventually evolve into the mud-cored ridges as the island transgressed with relative sea-level rise. Once the ridge and swale bathymetry emerged on the Gulf of Mexico shoreface it was able to reinforce the alongshore variation in dune height and storm response. It is further argued that the cuspate spits are reinforced by the shoreface ridges through alongshore transport of sediment from adjacent washover fans although the ridge orientation suggests that the spits have migrated westward by ~750m. In this respect, the alongshore variation in beach and dune morphology on this island is the expression of this large-scale feedback and suggests a top-down model in which meso-scale processes and landforms depend on the geologic context. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: The height and extent of coastal dune development can exhibit considerable variability over short distances, leading to variable storm impact alongshore. The source of this variation is not well understood in general, and in many cases is not easily explained by models that ascribe dune height and development to regional variations in sediment availability and foreshore slope. In this paper, LiDAR data collected in 2000 and 2005 from South Padre Island, Texas are used to characterize the alongshore variation in dune morphology, and to identify how the variation is related to foreshore morphology and nearshore state. Results of cross-wavelet analysis suggest that foredune height exhibits a statistically significant coherence with the surf similarity parameter at length scales of ~1300 of 2300m. The resulting variation in beach state alongshore, from intermediate to dissipative, is the consequence of wave refraction and focusing by transverse ridges on the inner shelf. Dune height reaches a local maximum approximately halfway between the more intermediate and dissipative sections of the coast, where the volume of sediment in the backshore and in the foreshore bars are also at a maximum. The greater elevation of the foreshore and backshore also provides a wider fetch and potential for aeolian transport during the storm surge that tends to accompany storm winds. It is argued that the variation in dune morphology is not strictly the result of transport limitations as suggested by the fetch model, but rather depends on the alongshore coincidence of transport potential with an available supply of sediment in the backshore and on the foreshore. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]

Abstract: The response of a barrier island to an extreme storm depends in part on the surge elevation relative to the height and extent of the foredunes which can exhibit considerable variability alongshore. While it is recognized that alongshore variations in dune height and width direct barrier island response to storm surge, the underlying causes of the alongshore variation remain poorly understood. This study examines the alongshore variation in dune morphology along a 11 km stretch of Santa Rosa Island in northwest Florida and relates the variation in morphology to the response of the island during Hurricane Ivan and historic and storm-related rates of shoreline erosion. The morphology of the foredune and backbarrier dunes was characterized before and after Hurricane Ivan using Empirical Orthogonal Function (EOF) analysis and related through Canonical Correlation Analysis (CCA). The height and extent of the foredune, and the presence and relative location of the backbarrier dunes, varied alongshore at discrete length scales (of ~750, 1450 and 4550 m) that are statistically significant at the 95% confidence level. Cospectral analysis suggests that the variation in dune morphology is correlated with transverse ridges on the inner-shelf, the backbarrier cuspate headlands, and the historical and storm-related trends in shoreline change. Sections of the coast with little to no dune development before Hurricane Ivan were observed in the narrowest portions of the island (between headlands), west of the transverse ridges. Overwash penetration tended to be larger in these areas and island breaching was common, leaving the surface close to the watertable and covered by a lag of shell and gravel. In contrast, large foredunes and the backbarrier dunes were observed at the widest sections of the island (the cuspate headlands) and at crest of the transverse ridges. Due to the large dunes and the presence of the backbarrier dunes, these areas experienced less overwash penetration and most of the sediment from the beachface and dunes was deposited within the upper-shoreface. It is argued that this sediment is returned to the beachface through nearshore bar migration following the storm and that the areas with larger foredunes and backbarrier dunes have smaller rates of historical shoreline erosion compared to areas with smaller dunes and greater transfer of sediment to the washover terrace. Since the recovery of the dunes will vary depending on the availability of sediment from the washover and beachface, it is further argued that the alongshore pattern of dune morphology and the response of the island to the next extreme storm is forced by the transverse ridges and island width through alongshore variations in storm surge and overwash gradients respectively. These findings may be particularly important for coastal managers involved in the repair and rebuilding of coastal infrastructure that was damaged or destroyed during Hurricane Ivan. [Copyright &y& Elsevier]