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BACKGROUND Reduction in skin elasticity due to aging causes skin sagging and wrinkles. Although there are various objective and reliable techniques for measuring skin elasticity, it is difficult to obtain a visual representation of skin elasticity with them. Therefore, we developed a novel device, the Swing anglemeter, and analyzed its effectiveness for measuring skin elasticity of the cheek. MATERIALS AND METHODS Forty-five healthy Korean women (age, 23-60 years) participated. The Swing anglemeter works by dropping a rubber ball on a subject's cheek, which draws a curve as it collides with the cheek. After recording the movement of the ball using the slow-motion function on a mobile phone, we defined the maximum angle at which the ball bounces off the skin as the elastic angle, using frame-by-frame video analysis. Changes in the elastic angle were assessed according to age, and correlation with the Ballistometer® results (Dia-stron Ltd., Andover, UK) was analyzed for validation. RESULTS Elastic angles differed significantly (P

Variation in skin pigmentation can be affected by both environmental factors and intrinsic factors such as age, gender, and genetic variation. Recent GWASs revealed that genetic variants of genes functionally related to a pigmentation pathway were associated with skin pigmentary traits. However, these GWASs focused on populations with European ancestry, and only a few studies have been performed on Asian populations, limiting our understanding of the genetic basis of skin pigmentary traits in Asians. To evaluate the genetic variants associated with facial pigmented spots, we conducted a GWAS analysis of objectively measured facial pigmented spots in 17,019 Korean women. This large-scale GWAS identified several genomic loci that were significantly associated with facial pigmented spots (five previously reported loci and two previously unreported loci, to our knowledge), which were detected by UV light: BNC2 at 9p22 (rs16935073; P-value = 2.11 × 10−46), PPARGC1B at 5q32 (rs32579; P-value = 9.04 × 10−42), 10q26 (rs11198112; P-value = 9.66 × 10−38), MC1R at 16q24 (rs2228479; P-value = 6.62 × 10−21), lnc01877 at 2q33 (rs12693889; P-value = 1.59 × 10−11), CDKN2B-AS1 at 9p21 (rs643319; P-value = 7.76 × 10−9), and MFSD12 at 19p13 (rs2240751; P-value = 9.70 × 10−9). Further functional characterization of the candidate genes needs to be done to fully evaluate their contribution to facial pigmented spots.

Background Melanin is synthesized in melanocytes and transferred to keratinocytes through dendrites. Endogenous pyruvate is a key metabolite for ATP production in glycolysis, and the tricarboxylic acid (TCA) cycle and exogenous pyruvate provide protection against oxidative stress and acidosis in the intercellular space. The function of pyruvate in the regulation of dendrite outgrowth remains to be elucidated. Objective We examined the effect of pyruvate on dendritic elongation and skin pigmentation Methods Murine B16F10 melanoma cells and human primary melanocytes were used for in vitro analysis. Melanin quantitation and histochemical staining were performed in a 3D pigmented human skin model. Results We demonstrated the participation of monocarboxylate transporters (MCTs) responsible for the membrane transport of pyruvate in B16F10 melanoma cells. The accumulation of pyruvate occurred in a pH-dependent manner, which was highly sensitive to a specific MCT inhibitor (α-cyano-4-hydroxycinnamic acid). α-MSH-induced morphological changes, including dendrite elongation and growth-cone-like structure, were diminished in B16F10 cells upon treatment with pyruvate. In addition, the number of dendrite branches was reduced in normal human epidermal melanocytes. As the Rho-subfamily of monomeric GTP-binding proteins modulates dendrite formation, we subsequently examined the suppression of Rac1 activation by pyruvate, but not RhoA and Cdc42. Furthermore, pyruvate showed anti-melanogenic effects against UV-induced pigmentation in reconstructed pigmented epidermis, established by co-seeding autologous melanocytes and keratinocytes, which act similar to in vivo skin tissue. Conclusion These results suggest that pyruvate treatment may be an alternative or additive therapeutic strategy to prevent hyperpigmentation.

Facial wrinkles are the predominant phenotypes of skin aging. To date, one of the most effective ways to improve wrinkles is botulinum toxin type A (BoNT/A) injection, which inhibits muscle contractions by reducing acetylcholine release from neurons. However, since BoNT/A is a hazardous neurotoxin, the injection can only be performed by medical doctors and the procedure is only possible through invasive injection, causing inconveniences such as pain. To overcome these inconveniences, we tried to find a way to reduce wrinkles non-invasively via mechanisms similar to BoNT/A. We first designed in vitro assays to test BoNT/A-like muscle contraction inhibition in two different model systems. By using the assays, we identified Zanthoxylum piperitum (Z. piperitum) fruit extract as a BoNT-like reagent (27.7% decrease of muscle contraction rates by 1000 ppm of Z. piperitum extract treatment). Next, we determined mechanisms of how Z. piperitum extract decreases muscle contraction rates and found that the extract treatment inhibits electrical signal transduction in neurons. We also showed that among known components of Z. piperitum extract, quercitrin is responsible for muscle contraction inhibition. We further identified that Z. piperitum extract has synergistic effects with acetyl hexapeptide-8 and BoNT/A light chain, which are well-known BoNT-like peptides. Finally, we showed that topical treatment of the Z. piperitum extract indeed decreases facial wrinkles and treatment of Z. piperitum extract with acetyl hexapeptide-8 has a tendency to improve wrinkles synergistically (14.5% improvement on average). The synergistic effect of the combination is expected to improve wrinkles effectively by implementing the BoNT/A mechanisms in a non-invasive way.

Background The Janus-III measurement system evaluates the overall skin characteristics such as skin pore, wrinkle, sebum, porphyrin, skin pigmentation, and skin color using high-resolution facial images. The values are measured from five different facial areas, namely, the forehead, nose, corner of/skin below the eyes, and cheeks. Owing to its convenience and diverse measuring characteristics, Janus-III has been widely used in skin research and the cosmetic industry in Korea. In our previous study, we revealed the consistency and reliability of the system with repeatedly measured values. Its measuring performance was investigated statistically, but to make it more reliable for academic skin research, additional verification by a professional dermatologist is needed. Materials and methods In this study, we conducted comparative analysis of three skin characteristics (pigmented spot, skin color, and eye wrinkle) by a dermatologist and the Janus-III measurement system. We utilized 330 image data that were cropped from the whole facial images of 330 different participants to avoid correlation among the three measuring items. Pearson's correlation coefficient exhibited similar patterns between the system and the dermatologist's findings. Results The main finding of our study was that the measured value of skin characteristics by the Janus-III system showed clear correlation with the values evaluated by a dermatologist, especially in a pigmented spot. Conclusion Therefore, it would be a plausible idea to consider the Janus-III system for specialized research of skin characteristics even with a small sample size.

OBJECTIVE Skin-brightening agents prevent melanogenesis and reduce melanin production. However, a lower melanin content leads to weaker protection against sunlight. In this study, we evaluated the effect of lysophosphatidylcholine (LPC) and its commercial-grade product, Lysofix Dry™ (LD), on heat shock protein 70 (HSP70) expression in epidermal cells and their anti-skin photoaging effect against ultraviolet B (UVB) and blue light. METHODS The HSP70 induction was detected using ELISA. To confirm the inhibition of melanin synthesis by LPC or LD, the melanin content assay and gene expression were analyzed. Cell viability was assessed to verify whether LPC or LD prevents photo-induced skin damage. The split-face test was performed to confirm skin-brightening effect of LD. Cream formulation with 2% of LD and placebo were used for 8 weeks, and skin brightness (L) was measured with chromameter (CR-400, Konica Minolta). RESULTS LPC- and LD-induced HSP70 expression in epidermal cells. LPC and LD effectively suppressed melanogenesis provoked by α-MSH in B16 cells. They also inhibited the mRNA transcription of MITF and tyrosinase under blue light irradiation. LD increased the viability of B16 and HaCaT cells after UVB and blue light irradiation in vitro. The cream containing 2% LD increased ΔL by 1.7 after 8 weeks of use, whereas the placebo led to an increase of 0.7. CONCLUSION LPC and LD were effective in suppressing melanogenesis and enhancing cell viability under UVB and blue light via HSP70 expression. Thus, they can be considered as potent skin-brightening agents with protective effects against skin photoaging.

Background For personalized skin care, noninvasive quantitative methods to evaluate facial skin characteristics are important. Janus-III is one of the most widely used imaging analysis devices in the skin care industry in Korea. Janus-III generates values for a range of skin characteristics. Due to the convenience of obtaining results for a variety of skin characteristics in a single measurement, the use of Janus-III in cosmetic stores and research institutes has been recently increasing. However, the consistency of skin measurements of Janus-III has not been elucidated yet. Materials and methods In this study, we repeated skin measurements three times for 70 different subjects and compared each numerical value in order to assess the consistency of the Janus-III. For this purpose, we compared between-sample distances and within-sample distances. Results We found important patterns for future analyses in terms of consistency. First, the average values of skin measurement categories were more reliable than individual part values of facial segments. Second, center part values such as forehead and nose were more reliable than side part values such as left and right part segments. Conclusion If researchers who use Janus-III for studies of facial characteristics analyze average and center part values first, they can obtain relatively reliable patterns of facial skin characteristics.

Surfactants during routine washing have a tremendous effect on lipid loss from hair. This study aims to understand the loss of lipids from hair upon contact with surfactants and develop a way to prevent the lipid loss. The change in lipid levels depends on the relative hydrophobicity of the lipid. We herein propose that the change in lipid levels can be protected by two modifications. In the case of fatty acids and cholesterol (group A), the concentration difference between virgin hair versus surface modified hair with highly charged polymer was 22 to 32% higher after washing with surfactants while the loss of squalene and wax esters (group B) in response to surfactants still occurred even after the surface modification. In the hair treated by internal modification with the carbodiimide reaction, 52.0 to 81.3% more lipids in group B were prevented than in the untreated hair. Finally, different types of lipids were successfully protected by surface and internal modifications from the surfactant treatment. This study will be the basis for understanding the mechanisms by which surfactants damage the lipid barrier of tissues including hair and for establishing strategies to defend the barrier.

Carnitine (CAR), an amino acid derivative, has great potential as a facial exfoliating agent owing to its calcium chelating property under weakly acidic or neutral conditions. However, its application is limited by its poor transdermal penetration. To optimise its exfoliation efficacy with minimal concentration, we propose the ion-pair method. The ionic interaction between CAR and a zwitterionic substance was successfully monitored by measuring conductivity. The alterations of penetration and exfoliation efficacy for CAR addition to different types of counter ions were investigated in vitro and in vivo. We found that hydrogenated soya phosphatidylcholine (HSC), an amphiphilic counter ion, significantly increases the stratum corneum penetration and exfoliation efficacy of CAR. The changes of the CAR-HSC ionic interaction in the presence of calcium ions were also investigated by 1H nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) spectroscopy. The NMR spectra for amino groups of CAR first decreased with HSC and then gradually recovered and shifted as calcium ions were added. From the results, a noble exfoliating complex of CAR with high exfoliation efficacy could be proposed. Moreover, the results demonstrate that NMR spectroscopy is useful to obtain direct experimental evidence of the molecular dynamics simulations of the alteration of an exfoliating complex as it penetrates.

Background Due to internal or external factors, the desquamation (turnover) rate of the stratum corneum slows down, resulting in skin problems. Therefore, adjusting the exfoliation rate through cosmetics is an important issue. Objective This report aimed to develop exfoliating agents with lesser adverse effects and higher efficiency through an ex vivo screening method and in vivo turnover rate analysis of human skin. Methods Various molecules were evaluated by the ex vivo porcine skin exfoliation method and screened for their potential as effective agents. To confirm the effect and mechanism of each agent found, the exfoliation efficiency was evaluated. Each agent was also applied to the actual human skin to determine its efficacy and side effects. Results Despite the pH 6, carnitine and serine, which have similar or better efficiency compared to PHA, were selected. Based on the results, it was confirmed that calcium. And it is nonirritating to the human skin and increases the turnover rate (~130%). Conclusion Amino acid-based exfoliating agents, such as carnitine and serine, were identified and verified to enhance the rate of exfoliation of the stratum corneum. It is expected that the improvement of dullness, mild acne, fine wrinkles, and pores through skin exfoliation in the field of cosmetics can be achieved safely through these agents.

Background The interaction between light and the skin determine how the skin looks to the human eye. Light can be absorbed, scattered, and reflected by different components of the skin in a variety of different ways. Here, we focus on the scattering properties of the outmost layer, the stratum corneum (SC). However, we currently have limited methods with which to distinguish the scattering of light by SC from the changes due to other components of the skin. Materials and methods Dark-field images of tape-striped corneocytes were used in vitro to study the differences in light scattered by the SC and other skin components. Several optical clearing agents (OCAs) were tested for their ability to reduce light scattering. Physical properties of the SC (water content, keratin configuration, and volume) after OCA treatment were investigated using FT-IR, confocal Raman microscopy, and 3D laser microscopy. Results Urea derivatives, several reducing sugars, and sugar alcohols, which were used as OCA in optics and also used as humectants in cosmetic area, could reduce scattering. However, unlike dehydration in optics, penetration of water into the keratin was increased at low OCA concentrations. In such conditions, the volume of corneocytes was increased but their stiffness was reduced. Conclusion By analyzing the tape-striped SC, we were able to measure the changes in the optical and physical properties of corneocytes in response to OCAs. Hydration of the SC layer by OCAs reduces light scattering from the corneocytes and would be helpful in moisturizing the skin and helping the skin look healthy.

Even though β-lapachone is a promising compound with antitumor, antiinflammatory, antineoplastic, and wound-healing effects, there are still issues concerning its chemical stability and degradation mechanisms. The objective of this study was to obtain degradation profiles of β-lapachone and evaluate its chemical stability under various stress conditions. Moreover, the correlation between stability and efficacy was evaluated. The degradation study of β-lapachone was performed using heat, acid, base, oxidation, and light conditions. Kinetics and degradation profiles were investigated with HPLC and LC-MS. The stability indicated in the LC method was validated according to the International Conference on Harmonization guidelines. Human dermal fibroblast (HDF) cells were cultured with the standard and its degraded samples in the cellular activity and cytotoxicity test. β-Lapachone was relatively unstable upon exposure to light, and its photodegradation was accelerated with high relative humidity. Three degradants were identified, and their degradation followed zero-order kinetics. It was shown to degrade to phthalic acid under oxidative conditions, and the degradation kinetics were dependent on the concentration of hydrogen peroxide. Two degradation products were identified upon exposure to basic conditions, which followed first-order kinetics. β-Lapachone was relatively stable under acidic and thermal conditions. It increased the synthesis of collagen compared with the control. However, as the contents decreased, the synthesis of collagen also decreased in the photodegraded samples. β-Lapachone did not exert cytotoxic effects at the effective concentration in the cytotoxicity test. Therefore, in order to ensure efficacy and safety, the chemical stability of β-lapachone needs to be controlled carefully while considering instability mechanisms.