Search

Three dimensional (3D) warp interlock fabric becomes a promising structure due to its good mechanical performances. However, its complex manufacturing process can cause severe yarn damage and affects its overall final performances. The current study addressed the effects weaving process and warp yarn ratios on the multi-filaments yarn degradations and its mechanical performances while 3D warp interlock fabric manufacturing. Four different 3D warp interlock variants having similar fabric architecture, and yarn densities but different warp yarns interchange ratios were manufactured using 930dTex high-performance multi-filament (Twaron® f1000). The multi-filaments yarns at different weaving processes were tested for their tensile properties. The results show that the average tensile strength of twisted yarns show a decrement of 5.68% as compared to the bobbin yarns. Meanwhile, warping process also showed a 16.11% maximum breaking load reduction as compared to the bobbin yarn. Besides, the tensile strength of binding yarn after weaving process for samples 3D-8/0, 3D-8/4, and 3D-8/8 was reduced by 12.79%, 5.22%, and 14.22% respectively as compared to the yarn after warping process. In conclusion, yarn degradation inside the 3D woven structure was affected not only by the various process parameters but also by the type of fabric architecture made with different warp yarn ratios. These phenomena ultimately bring a great influence both on the yarn and overall mechanical performance of the final products. For this, further studies are planned to investigate the multi-filaments yarn degradation effect on the ballistic performances fibrous material as it is directly linked to the yarn performance.

Mouldability, along with other mechanical properties, is a very crucial material parameter in various technical textile applications, from composites to soft body armour products. Moreover, the mouldability and recovery behaviours of the material will be affected by various internal and external paramters before, during and after the forming process. The current research particularly tried to study the effects of blank-holder pressure (BHP) and the number of layers not only on the moulding characterstics but also on the recovery behaviour of plain woven p-aramid fabrics made from a high-performance yarn with a linear density of 930 dTex. Samples with various numbers of layers were arranged in the same orientation for the moulding process. The moulding approach utilised a specific moulding device in a low-speed forming process and a predefined semi-hemispherically shaped punch for all specimens.Various important dry textile material moulding characteristics and, most importantly, the moulding recovery properties, such as warp and weft direction drawing-in recovery, center high-point recovery, shear angle recovery etc. were investigated.

Subjective and objective evaluations of the handle of textile materials are very important to describe its tactile comfort for next-to-skin goods. In this paper, the applicability of artificial neu ...

Traceability has emerged as a prime requirement for a multi-tier and multi-site production. It enables visibility and caters to the consumer requirements of transparency and quality assurance. Textile and clothing industry is one such example that requires traceability implementation to address prevailing problems of information asymmetry and low visibility. Customers find it difficult to access product data that can facilitate ethical buying practices or assure product authenticity. Besides, it is challenging for stakeholders to share crucial information in an insecure environment with risk of data manipulations and fear of losing information advantage. In this context, this study investigates and proposes a blockchain-based traceability framework for traceability in multi- tier textile and clothing supply chain. It conceptualizes the interaction of supply chain partners, and related network architecture at the organizational level and smart contract and transaction validation rules at the operational level. To illustrate the application of the proposed framework, the study presents an example of organic cotton supply chain using blockchain with customized smart contract and transaction rules. It finally demonstrates the applicability of the developed blockchain by testing it under two parameters. The proposed system can build a technology-based trust among the supply chain partners, where the distributed ledger can be used to store and authenticate supply chain transactions. Further, the blockchain-based traceability system would provide a unique opportunity, flexibility, and authority to all partners to trace-back their supply network and create transparent and sustainable supply chain. QC 20210326QC 20210505

For the past many decades’ enormous research has been done on mechanical and moulding properties of 2D woven and non-woven fabrics. The current paper presents a comprehensive investigation of the tensile, bending and moulding behaviours of 3D orthogonal warp interlock fabrics with different fabric densities. Four 3D warp interlock fabrics with different areal density made from 168Tex linear density p-aramid Kevlar yarn were manufactured on dobby loom in GEMTEX laboratory. Based on the investigation both fabric density and yarn density shows a significant effect on bending and tensile properties of the fabrics. The bending rigidity in the warp and weft directions become higher in preforms with denser weft and warp yarn densities respectively. In general, as the yarn density in the respective warp or/and weft direction increases, the maximum tensile load with maximum strain increases. Moreover, the fabric and yarn density has also shown a great impact on various mouldability characteristics of 3D warp interlock preforms while deformation. The study finally elucidated that, like other parameters, fabric and the yarn density of 3D warp interlock influenced greatly the tensile, bending and moulding properties where those parameters should be considered carefully while applying in various technical textile applications i.e., soft body armour.

Although an increasing number of researches regarding inter-organizational supply chain collaboration (SCC) were conducted, the resource sharing (RS) in SCC is still an under-explored subject. Many RS models are successfully applied in various industries for improving the efficiency of manufacturing. Meanwhile, due to the demand of higher flexibility in the garment production recently, RS has become a novel method in order to optimize the industrial organization. This study explored the feasibility of applying RS in the manufacturing stage of garment supply chain. A KPI based on extended ANP approach was designed to evaluate overall performance of different RS scenarios. Furthermore, a simulation-based heuristic was developed to generate and optimize RS scenario. Finally, experiments based on a discrete-event simulation model of garment production were conducted to examine the performance of all RS scenarios. By comparing the outputs of RS scenario and traditional scenario, the simulation shows that garment manufacturers could get great benefits by applying RS. We also found that the opener garment manufacturers towards RS, the more benefits they can obtain.

Significant efforts have been made so far to improve the overall performance of female soft body armor. However, still designing female soft body armor which accommodates the bust area for different women morphological differences with good comfort, fitness, and better ballistic protection is in its great demand. This research paper presents an efficient reverse engineering approach (2D-3D-2D pattern generation) for developing appropriate 2D patterns from 3D female adaptive virtual mannequin for female soft body armor seamless front panel. The method was mainly used to attain the required bust volume in the pattern by eliminating the involvement of darts and another design element. Before the process, using computer-aided design (CAD), parameterization has been applied to develop a female model with an adaptive bust from a scanned body. The method starts with identifying the different strategic anthropometric points on the front body side contours of adaptive mannequin using specific 90B size bust cup. Based on these points, delimiting of the outer contour of the pattern has been done. Later, horizontal (weft) and vertical (warp) projection grids in front of the virtual mannequin were marked to generate block pattern using curve measurement from the body couture, while during projection, an accurate measurement using precise projection system and bust points has been considered. Finally, the material deformation has been also analyzed using classical 3D-to-2D flattened pattern. The result shows that the new flattened pattern reveals better shape to accommodate the deformation with low distortion throughout the fabric surface while flattening. This will later greatly help to keep similar fabric distribution throughout the panel and give better ballistic protection, fit-ensured, and good comfort for the wearer.

In this study, effects of different stitching parameters on formability behaviour of multi-layerd para-armide panels were investigated. Different stitching pattern namely, Uni-axial longitudinal, Bi-axial straight, Uni-axial-diagonal, Bi-axial-diagonal, Edge stitch and Unstitched were used for binding different layers. Stitch length and gap parameters were also considered while formability using different values. Diamond quilted stitched with less stitch gap and short stitch length shows severe surface wrinkling and stitch thread breakage, whereas unstitched layers show a better deformability without wrinkling and stitch thread breakage. Similarly, diamond quilted stitched shows a very less drawing-in values both in warp and weft directions. As stitch density increases, the drawing-in measurement value reduced due the formation of more rigid layer to resist the deformation. Unstitch and diamond quilted preform possess the highest and least deformation recovery percentage respectivly. Moreover, deformation recovery percentage of the layers become very less as the stich gap and stitch length reduced.

Sensory investigations of the functional textiles could be an alternative for the quality inspection and control of the products. The purpose of this research is to use subjective evaluation technique for assessing the tactile comfort of some functional textile fabrics based on AATCC Evaluation procedure 5-2011. Blind subjective evaluations and visual subjective evaluations were performed for sensory investigation. Ten fabric-skin-contact and comfort-related sensory properties were used to evaluate the handle of the functional textile fabrics. The reliability of the sensorial data obtained by subjective tests was evaluated using statistical data analysis techniques. A minimum and maximum consensus distances recorded were 0.58 and 1.61, respectively, using a descriptive sensory panel analysis and proves the consistency and similar sensorial perception between panelists. The Pearson correlation coefficient between panelists was up to 96% and hence a strong agreement between the panelist’s judgment. The results allowed to consider the subjective evaluation using a panel of experts could be validated in the case of functional fabrics. For functional textiles, additional visual subjective evaluation should be considered to have a similar human perception in addition to blind subjective evaluation.

Electroluminescence (EL) is the property of a semiconductor material pertaining to emitting light in response to an electrical current or a strong electric field. The purpose of this paper is to de ...

Trying virtual garments on a virtual body has become widespread in the design industry as a result of 3D computer-aided design (CAD) system and progress in body measurement systems. Spending less time and cost compared to traditional methods of garment design is the main benefit of design software development. Moreover, it leads to improved garment fitting on the body which fulfills customer desires. In the present study, a parametric graphical method was utilized to develop a 3D virtual mannequin for the pregnancy period. The former, the 3D adaptive mannequin model was predicted based on a woman&rsquo, s weight by analyzing body morphology evolution of a pregnant woman. The mannequin was verified by the results of another pregnant body. Then, the developed mannequin based on weight gain during maternity was applied to design a garment block pattern. The virtual try-on of the developed garment block pattern suggested that it was well-fitted on the 3D virtual mannequin while two armpit darts and two elastic seams were allocated. Hence, the developed garment block pattern will be used to make a personalized protective garment in our future work using an electromagnetic shielding woven fabric formerly manufactured by our group.

Low-carbon production has become one of the top management objectives for every industry. In garment manufacturing, the material distribution process always generates high carbon emissions. In order to reduce carbon emissions and the number of operators to meet enterprises&rsquo, requirements to control the cost of production and protect the environment, the paths of material distribution were analyzed to find the optimal solution. In this paper, the model of material distribution to obtain minimum carbon emissions and vehicles (operators) was established to optimize the multi-target management in three different production lines (multi-line, U-shape two-line, and U-shape three-line), while the workstations were organized in three ways: in the order of processes, in the type of machines, and in the components of garment. The NSGA-II algorithm (non-dominated sorting genetic algorithm-II) was applied to obtain the results of this model. The feasibility of the model and algorithm was verified by the practice of men&rsquo, s shirts manufacture. It could be found that material distribution of multi-line layout produced the least carbon emissions when the machines were arranged in the group of type.

With the rapid increase of personalized garment requirements, intelligent garment design has attracted more and more attention. The study reported in this paper concentrates on the modularized design method of garments in order to provide theoretical support for intelligent garment design. The proposed modularized design method consists of composition and transformation of garment parts as well as their configuration and connection. There are two categories of garment parts: essential parts and non-essential parts, each of which is determined by their key design attributes. Rules of transformation for garment parts were analyzed by classification of transformation rules. Binary decision variables were introduced to decide if garment parts should be selected. A mathematical model was developed to analyze constraints of garment parts connection.

The scarcity of natural resources and the problem of pollution have initiated the need for extending the life and use of existing products. The concept of the reverse supply chain provides an opportunity to recover value from discarded products. The potential for recovery and the improvement of value in the reverse supply chain of apparel has been barely studied. In this research, a novel modularized redesign model is developed and applied to the garment redesign process. The concept of modularization is used to extract parts from the end-of-use or end-of-life of products. The extracted parts are reassembled or reconstructed with the help of a proposed group genetic algorithm by using domain and industry-specific knowledge. Design fitness is calculated to achieve the optimal redesign. Subsequently, the practical relevance of the model is investigated with the help of an industrial case in Sweden. The case study finding reveals that the proposed method and model to calculate the design fitness could simplify the redesign process. The design fitness calculation is illustrated with the example of a polo t-shirt. The redesigned system-based modularization is in accordance with the practical situations because of its flexibility and viability to formulate redesign decisions. The grouping genetic algorithm could enable fast redesign decisions for designers.

Tactile comfort has a strong relation with low-stress mechanical properties of textilefabrics having close contact with the human skin. In this work, we attempt to analyse the lowstressmechanical properties of the functional knitted fabric obtained using Kawabata’s fabricevaluation system (KES-FB). The measured results were compared with those of the controlledpolyester fabric. The bending ability of the product increased from 0.2448 to 0.8010gf.cm2/cmand hence the rigidity influenced when copper yarn is introduced. However, thecompressibility increased from 0.173 to 0.449gf.cm/cm2 and hence the compressibility slightlyboosted. The surface roughness (SMD) highly increased from 7.196 to 14.258 μm. It wasobserved that the incorporation of conductive copper yarn during knitting brought an effect onthe tactile comfort of the fabrics and reduced by 69%. The overall comfort properties of theconductive textile fabric were reduced due to the introduction of copper yarn during knittingoperations. Focus should be given when functional fabric developed which has close contact tothe human skin. Quality inspection and evaluation of functional or smart textile fabric surface by skin contact mechanics

With the development of mass customization, the traditional garment production model needs to be optimized to have a more sustainable structure. To meet demand for flexibility, low-cost, and high-efficiency, an innovative resource sharing mechanism was proposed in this paper to form a new sustainable type of garment production. Different from the individual production in traditional models, the new mechanism involves resources being shared among various manufacturers. The tradeoff between positive and negative effects of the proposed mechanism is a key issue for sustainable production. In the present study, an overall sustainable index, integrating four production performance indicators, was defined on the basis of an Analytical Network Process to assess various production scenarios. According to the discrete-event simulation results of the different scenarios, we found that garment manufacturers could obtain comprehensive improvements in sustainable production by implementing the proposed resource sharing mechanism under the threshold of an increasing production failure rate.

As fashion mass customization has been developing rapidly in the recent decade, supply chain in apparel industry was required to be more flexible for meeting the need of quick response toward the dynamic changes in the fashion market. Forecast-based make-to-stock production strategy was not suitable anymore. Make-to-order strategy was employed by more and more apparel companies. However, there were still many defects in traditional make-to-order apparel supply chain, e.g., sustainability is still at a low level. In this study, we proposed a collaborative cloud service platform to develop a novel model of sustainable make-to-order apparel supply chain. A service provider selection heuristic was designed for this platform to optimally select suppliers corresponding to each received demand. Multi-agent-based simulation technology was utilized to build the proposed platform and to evaluate the new sustainable supply chain model. Experiment was conducted in the simulation to compare our new model to traditional apparel make-to-order model and model with outsourcing mechanism. Based on simulation results, the remarkable improvement in terms of sustainability of the proposed platform and corresponding supply chain model was demonstrated.

This paper outlines the quality inspection strategies in a supplier–buyer supply chain under a customer return policy. This paper primarily focuses on product quality and quality inspection techniques to maximize the actors’ and supply chain’s profits using game theory approach. The supplier–buyer setup is described in terms of textile manufacturer–retailer supply chain where quality inspection is an important aspect and the product return from the customer is generally accepted. Textile manufacturer produces the product, whereas, retailer acts as a reseller who buys the products from the textile manufacturer and sells them to the customers. In this context, the former invests in the product quality whereas the latter invests in the random quality inspection and traceability. The relationships between the textile manufacturer and the retailer are recognized as horizontal and vertical alliances and modeled using non-cooperative and cooperative games. The non-cooperative games are based on the Stackelberg and Nash equilibrium models. Further, bargaining and game change scenarios have been discussed to maximize the profit under different games. To understand the appropriateness of a strategic alliance, a computational study demonstrates textile manufacturer–retailer relation under different game scenarios.

One of the challenges in smart textiles is to develop suitable multifunctional materials that can address simultaneously several characteristics such as durability, stretchability, lightweight, and conductivity. Conductive polymers which showed success in different technological fields like polymer solar cells and light emitting diodes are promising in many smart textile applications. In this work, we treated a common polyamide/lycra knitted fabric with PEDOT:PSS for stretchable e-textiles. PEDOT:PSS, with DMSO as a conductivity enhancer and different ratios of water-based polyurethane dispersions as a binder, was applied to the fabric with simple immersion and coating applications. The effect of different application methods and binder ratio on the surface resistance of the fabric was monitored with four point probe electrical surface resistance measurement systems. Samples prepared by immersion technique are more uniform and have higher conductivity than those prepared by a coating technique. SEM images showed that PEDOT:PSS is incorporated into the structure in the immersion method while in the coating it is majorly present on the surface of the fabric. The tensile measurement showed that the acidic PEDOT:PSS and polyurethane dispersion coating has no adverse effect on the tensile strength of the fabric. The coated samples can be stretched up to 700% while still reasonably conductive. The resistance increases only by a small amount when samples were stretched cyclically by stretching 100%. Generally, samples prepared by the immersion method maintained better conductivity while stretching than those by a coating method. The washing fastness of the samples was also assessed.